Thanks again Brother. I would of never pulled it apart if you didn’t say something. It runs a little stronger . Not sure what’s next with it, any suggestions?
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I’m not sure what your plans for the build were. Seems like just a vtec mod in a CRV is a pretty decent upgrade. Maybe exhaust system and see how much power you can make on a dyno?
@@Donnythelatemodeltech if you don't boost then 421 header for more flow, either way bigger tb port matched for more air. I did a tiny bit of research and found that people have done epoxy block fills or block guards to help prevent cylinder cracking with constant high rpm use or both with boost. water will be warmer doing it as a downside
Still planning on doing this to my crv. But currently waiting on a title for my other car. Every time you upload a new crv vid I start looking at parts n shit 💀
A month later and i finally found a gsr head with the manifold like your integra. Yes extra steps to wire for secondaries, But I learned the gsr head has more torque. The low end runners also give you low end torque, I want torque with 235 tires also just the weight of the crv when going camping what ever. For your plans b16 makes more sense. Btw the flat out suspension rally suspension i told you about a while back is legit they aren’t stiff and you can adjust them properly to get good handling for rally style driving. But I’m not spending 3k Canadian on suspension for this turd I mean unless extremely successful dumpster dive happens lmao
Lol, definitely a good plan. I do agree the gsr head is the way to go. It should be really really fun to drive. And yeah , still looking for that pile of money in that dumperster would help!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I guess I mean B20Vtec vs B18C any weird cooling or oiling problems long term from using a non vtec block? Vtec engine blocks come with oil squirters. Any idea where your compression ended up?
B20’s are open deck design and weren’t designed to rev to the ceiling if you lock it out to 7.5k rpm’s and keep fresh oil in it they do last. But you are fighting design.
@@CaptainTexas92 Being open deck is not relevant here, thats turbo land, and the b20 sucks there because of the thin cyninder walls, needing sleeves to go big. The rpm limit of the b20 is due to piston speed, as a result of the longer stroke crank compared to a b16 or b18. You may be able to remedy this with lightweight aftermarket pistons and rods. It's plenty reliable when tuned well and built right. The b16/ITR (same casting) VTEC heads bump up the compression compared to the dohc heads iirc. There should be no oiling problems, although the b20 lacks the itr/gsr oil squirters that are nice for turbo use, so does the b16a iirc, and it does fine.
@@nobodynoone2500 not to sound like a jerk but it is relevant, the B20 is open deck, has a long stroke, paper thin Siamese cylinder walls, and insufficient piston cooling. This engine was built to make more low end torque than the d and other b series engines for family movers. Can you resleeve the engine to strengthen it? Yes. Can you run forged internals to keep piston temp down? Yes. But most people I see building b20vtec engines just slap a blox racing head gasket and a Vtec head then send the engine to the moon. On stock internals with a Vtec head pushing past 7.5K is a recipe for a cylinder wall failure. I’ve seen cracks, chunks, and oval shaped warping. It’s not a budget friendly engine for boost or a high revving Vtec.
For the money to power ratio, not really anymore. Hard to find cheap vtec heads that aren't iffy, and I'd really have it decked with new valves and guides. Better off with a k-swap or possibly even a _small_ turbo if looking for more power. I still love the b-series, so I'd still do it. All about money, access to parts, and motivation. Also the b20b has lower compression than the later 99-01 b20z, I think it was the piston height, so theres that.
Still lookin for a cheapish vtec head to do this. Got a spare ecu and everything.
Good catch, I'll buy whoever spotted the missing vtec pin a beer!
Nice. That pressure is looking way better and the vtec is sounding much stronger also.
Thanks again Brother. I would of never pulled it apart if you didn’t say something. It runs a little stronger . Not sure what’s next with it, any suggestions?
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I’m not sure what your plans for the build were. Seems like just a vtec mod in a CRV is a pretty decent upgrade. Maybe exhaust system and see how much power you can make on a dyno?
@@Donnythelatemodeltech if you don't boost then 421 header for more flow, either way bigger tb port matched for more air. I did a tiny bit of research and found that people have done epoxy block fills or block guards to help prevent cylinder cracking with constant high rpm use or both with boost. water will be warmer doing it as a downside
Glad that's working better and the oil pressure is much higher.
I might have to start looking for a CRV like this. 🙂
Much appreciate the help!
Hell yeah man keep up the awesome crv videos!
Good thing one of your subscriber pointed out what's missing. I'm not a Honda boy so I wouldn't catch that bro. Awesome video of your CRV rally. 👍
Thanks brother. Get that fuel pump figured out?
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I haven't started it yet. I want to buy the part first.
Still planning on doing this to my crv. But currently waiting on a title for my other car. Every time you upload a new crv vid I start looking at parts n shit 💀
Lol, I’m thing about headers, but still would like to turbo it, not sure what to do.
Making me miss my CR-V already 😢 Love the videos though keep ‘em up!
Much appreciated!
I've missed every 88-01 integra/crv/civic I've ever sold. They just don't feel right anymore without the wishbone suspension.
Nice score on the trolly motor! 👌
DDD 👍
Nice video 👍
Thanks 👍
I eventually wanna do little things like this to my 97 crv to get a bit more power
Nice…i need a basemap for the same set up.any link?
did you ever install new rod bolts?
Good for you
Good for me
A month later and i finally found a gsr head with the manifold like your integra. Yes extra steps to wire for secondaries, But I learned the gsr head has more torque. The low end runners also give you low end torque, I want torque with 235 tires also just the weight of the crv when going camping what ever. For your plans b16 makes more sense.
Btw the flat out suspension rally suspension i told you about a while back is legit they aren’t stiff and you can adjust them properly to get good handling for rally style driving. But I’m not spending 3k Canadian on suspension for this turd I mean unless extremely successful dumpster dive happens lmao
Lol, definitely a good plan. I do agree the gsr head is the way to go. It should be really really fun to drive. And yeah , still looking for that pile of money in that dumperster would help!
I can't wait to slap this GSR head on my CR-V. Are you ready to go DigiDizzy on that beast?
Oh hell yeah!
Any reason this can't be as reliable as a stock B18C?
It’s not stock, any more.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I guess I mean B20Vtec vs B18C any weird cooling or oiling problems long term from using a non vtec block? Vtec engine blocks come with oil squirters. Any idea where your compression ended up?
B20’s are open deck design and weren’t designed to rev to the ceiling if you lock it out to 7.5k rpm’s and keep fresh oil in it they do last. But you are fighting design.
@@CaptainTexas92 Being open deck is not relevant here, thats turbo land, and the b20 sucks there because of the thin cyninder walls, needing sleeves to go big. The rpm limit of the b20 is due to piston speed, as a result of the longer stroke crank compared to a b16 or b18. You may be able to remedy this with lightweight aftermarket pistons and rods. It's plenty reliable when tuned well and built right. The b16/ITR (same casting) VTEC heads bump up the compression compared to the dohc heads iirc. There should be no oiling problems, although the b20 lacks the itr/gsr oil squirters that are nice for turbo use, so does the b16a iirc, and it does fine.
@@nobodynoone2500 not to sound like a jerk but it is relevant, the B20 is open deck, has a long stroke, paper thin Siamese cylinder walls, and insufficient piston cooling. This engine was built to make more low end torque than the d and other b series engines for family movers. Can you resleeve the engine to strengthen it? Yes. Can you run forged internals to keep piston temp down? Yes. But most people I see building b20vtec engines just slap a blox racing head gasket and a Vtec head then send the engine to the moon. On stock internals with a Vtec head pushing past 7.5K is a recipe for a cylinder wall failure. I’ve seen cracks, chunks, and oval shaped warping. It’s not a budget friendly engine for boost or a high revving Vtec.
B20vtec in a crv with awd & 5 speed should have been a high trim option they dropped the ball there
is adding vtech to my 1997 honda crv worth it ?
My CRV is just for fun, so hell yeah it’s worth it to me.
For the money to power ratio, not really anymore. Hard to find cheap vtec heads that aren't iffy, and I'd really have it decked with new valves and guides. Better off with a k-swap or possibly even a _small_ turbo if looking for more power. I still love the b-series, so I'd still do it. All about money, access to parts, and motivation. Also the b20b has lower compression than the later 99-01 b20z, I think it was the piston height, so theres that.
@@nobodynoone2500 its got 54k original miles on the car. I guess turbo would be the way to go ?
Yes at 54k original miles and well maintained boost it to around 260whp would be safe and fun. Best of luck.
You still running the xtd clutch? Mine is not great now and judders
Still the eBay clutch. Hope it lasts forever, lol.