Counterfeit Burr Brown OpAmps OPA2604 - Found good ones - What to look for
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- In this video 'Counterfeit Burr Brown OpAmps OPA2604 - Found good ones - What to look for', I'll show the counterfeit parts that I purchased both from Ebay and Amazon. Then I'll show the real parts that I found on ebay. #counterfeit parts, #counterfeitOpAmps, #bestOpAmp, #OPA2604, #OpAmps, #Burr-Brown, #BurrBrown
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It's worth trying rubbing the part with acetone which often removes the text on counterfeit parts (IPA isn't a strong enough solvent). But just because it's not reacting to acetone there's no guarantee it's "real" - some counterfeiter use resistant dyes and it's known you can get factory laser-etched "74LS" that are really brand new 74HC parts for example! because the LS part sells for a lot more (due to the retro market) so the Chinese factory "helpfully" offers LS marked parts for a little extra (AFAIK no one has made actual LS parts for a long time).
You mention that the NE5532P seems to match specifications, but the logo strongly suggest it's counterfeit (as does the wonky lettering!), this might be some other compatible part or even the correct part but still being relabeled! - there's documented examples of them removing and then putting back the same label except replacing the datecode with a new datecode. Apparently the idea is to be able to sell them as "new" (more expensive) rather than "used", except the date code now makes it obvious it's fake because it's not been manufactured for decades.
The first BB part is for some reason easy to read in the UA-cam video, the bottom markings are 19WR7FB. Sometimes that happens, could be angle or polarization for example.
Thanks! I agree the wonky laser etching would be a deterent, but the NE5532 does seem to work well. The first OPA2604 did look cleaner and did work. The ceramics do look great and do work;)
I wouldn't do that Acetone can dissolve plastics
Tha'ts how you know there knock offs@@D1N02
there is a good thread on eeVblog where one guy de-capped all the fakes and identified 13 different op-amp chips (all chinese) that are used. they just mark the package to any part number. I even got fake 741 from china.
Thanks for this feedback! When possible, it is great to buy from trusted sources like Mouser and Digikey.
Thanks Eddie,
Funny I just bought some obsolete clock chips from Ali and I just tested them, they look like the originals that no manufacturers had but I didn't want to give up the design because the chips worked perfectly for my app. They're 32.768 kHz and draw 4 pA with an accuracy of ~0.5 ppm if I remember at 3V.
Boy, it's a hard call especially when you're using older chips. The thing is BB made some really good stuff it's hard to get now. They had top engineers and those guys helped me more than once on designs.
Most times I try to buy from the big guys like Mouser and Digi-Key even if it costs more, I definitely don't trust eBay and Amazon is the wild west, they have zero policing and everyone knows it. I don't hesitate to give negative reviews anymore, let people know if you get stung.
Thanks for this great advice;) I will see if I can find a trusted list of vendors for surplus stock or parts. Otherwise I stick with Mouser or Digikey.
@@MultiKumar321 I find the Chinese to be a mixed bag like any society. You can buy quality USA made and junk. My Chinese board house is top notch for example and Shars Tools who I often buy machine tools for my shop from is very reputable with consistent quality.
But, yes, when I have to design something for the market I go to Mouser or Digi-Key, the difference is if a Chinese tool brakes my customers aren't effected by it so I can take more chances in certain areas.
I bought a batch of TL071 single opamps on eBay once. None of them worked. I thought a bit, rewired the test socket, and they worked just fine, except they didn't meet specs. Turns out they were TL082 dual opamps, marked as TL071.
Thanks for this feedback! The pin out is the same between the 2 parts - right? How did rewire work?
TL072 are dirt cheap, why even bother with ebay?
HI EDDIE, I Appreciate the info, good to know. 👍
Thanks! I appreciate you!
Nice cautionary tale and a reminder that, if you have the option to do so, you should design for jellybean parts that you have reasonable confidence in being able to get from proper suppliers for the foreseeable future. I have a cache of Shenzhen-sourced resistors, capacitors, and inductors, but I wouldn't trust Amazon or eBay for any active components.
Thanks for the great advice. But when you are designing for high-end audio like I think this Class A amp might fit, then I search for great parts. The key is to select parts that are currently still being manufactured, and buy from a trusted vendor. I know those who would say that those Shenzhen resistors and capacitors are fake and counterfeit - or at least not up to par with resistors such as Dale or caps from America or Japan. In this case it is a part that is not in normal circulation anymore:(
@@KissAnalog My cache of passives is only for prototyping; if I build anything for realz, it's with resistors from Vishay/Dale (preferably CMF50/60) and capacitors from Illinois, Panasonic, TDK, or Nippon Chemi-Con.
I still think your needs would have better been served by replacing your regulators with ones that work with what's currently available. Plenty of Burr-Brown op amps that steer high current from +/-15V rails.
Thanks - the problem is I needed the higher voltage rail (+/- 24 V rails). I can use two OPA604 so that is the way I'll have to go.
THANK YOU FOR THE ADVICE.BURR BROWN MADE MOST OF DACS FOR CD PLAYERS.IF YOU WORKED AT THAT COMPANY YOU GOT LOTS OF EXPERIENCE BUT,AT VERY LOW PAY SCALE.THEY WERE LATER BOUGHT THE TUCSON ARIZONA PLANT BY TEXAS INSTRUMENTS IN TUCSON ARIZONA.
Thanks David! BB was such a leader in great analog parts;)
THEY WERE A GOOD PLACE TO GET WORK EXPERIENCE FROM.
Today, it is a frequent problem to buy quality semiconductors. I bought 20pcs opa2604 from my most trusted seller in Belgrade. Everything works, but they were not original. A simple way to check them is to check the steady current through them. The original consumes much more current than, say, the TL072.
Great point! I thought that maybe factories in China realized what a great OpAmp this is and would keep making them based on their high cost vs the run of the mill OpAmps. And maybe this is happening, but the parts that just get relabeled are killing any trust in this - if it happening in the first place. At this point, other than these ceramics, it might be a part that truly is gone and done at this point.
I bought some used OPA2604 chips in the ceramic package from ebay (they were apparently salvaged from other disassembled equipment).
They looked obviously used - bent legs with residual solder, the tops were scratched and marked etc. They worked fine and actually sound pretty good, but measured below spec for idle current - the spec sheet said says 10.5mA typ, 12mA max for both amps, but mine measured more like 4 or 5mA. I had two, and they both measured the same.
This seems pretty low, but there is no minimum value on the data sheet, and from memory these may have also been SQ grade (space qualified), so were maybe also selected for low idle current?
I've read about dodgy sellers sanding or lasering off markings on similar, cheaper, low spec chips in plastic packages, and remarking them with the labels of the chip they want to sell, but I think this is more difficult to do with ceramic packages?
It's a mystery - I'll probably never know if they're real or not....
Thanks for your feedback! It really is hard to tell. Idle current is also based on the voltage on the rails. So, if the rail to rail voltage is lower than the idle current would be lower.
@@KissAnalog thanks for your response! Have been enjoying the channel....
I was running them on +/- 12v balanced rails, where the spec sheet specifies the idle current at +/- 15v, so maybe not enough to explain the more than 50% lower idle current?
They sound pretty good, so if they're not genuine, I'd love to know what they actually are - but that may be one of those mysteries in life that I never solve 😀
i think maybe a good strategy these days is to buy very cheap (from aliexpress) these soic-8 to 0,1" inch spacing DIP-8 pcb adaptor. it's just a teeny tiny pcb that you can solder legs onto. And that then has pads on the top side for soic-8. Or whatever other styles of 8-pin SMD packages. This then lets you source modern SMD only parts for where the DIP inline packages have been discontinued. I have also (for example) soldered smd mosfets to these tiny adaptors too. To make them easier to use in traditional thu hole circuits
In fact for the fist op-amp you showed (the ne5532) there is available in stock in digikit in these surface mount SOIC-8 pkg... (142 thousand in stock, digikey p/n 296-13622-1-ND). And i even already ordered a couple of them for myself, along with a variety of other op-amps like the similar part ne5534.
however for the burr brown then that would be a different matter. what i would want to do for that: is to look online for some recent teardown pcb photos some modern recently manufactured high end audio equipment. And see what the op-amps they are now using these days. And then based on those chip markings see what else might be out there
Yes, if you can - stick with trusted vendors. When looking for the obscure and/or surplus stock - buyer beware;)
I have a couple of 627s
BBOPA
627AU
9841
just like that with no box around the BB. I can't remember where I bought them. They were surface mounted originally but the seller put them on a dip8 . I haven't tested them yet...
gonna hand out op-amps for next halloween. "careful kids! they might not work"
LOL - what if the poor kid goes home and builds a circuit that then doesn't work...?
Mouser has the OPA604AU just mount 2 of them on a daughter adapter board. No more heat issue.😉
@@Torbjorn.Lindgren I don't know what you're looking at but I'm can see that OPA 604AU is readily available and in stock do not confuse the 604 with the 2604
@@davidkclayton I goofed on the part number BUT now that I entered it correctly I do find them but none of the models are in stock, I checked both Mouser and Digikey, searching both "OPA 604AU", OPA604AU and OPA604 and even tried switching country site. Yes, Mouser lists impressive numbers in the Availability column but none of those are actually "in stock", they're all clarified as either "On Order" (earliest possible 30 Nov 2023, the rest are all 2024), "Expected" (2024) or "Not Stocked" (26 Weeks expected lead time) - check the details page for each the four different models for actual details on each. I strongly doubt these are firm dates either, they're much to far out for that. They could even arrive before those dates but the odds are good it'll be much longer.
The usual exortion vendors in China claims to have lots of OPA604AU in stock but doesn't list prices which usually means they don't actually have any available, they'll try to find one for you if you "request a quote" and then order some.
I did mention that I was thinking of making a board to use two OPA604, and they are still being produced where the OPA2604 is discontinued. However, even the OPA604 is hard to find in stock now.
@@KissAnalog Mouser shows 5K in stock if you don't mind smd.
This is a very important topic, today there are a lot of fake components. BTW, where can I find a Cheap and Original "NE5532"? Thanks.
Thanks for asking. I did find a vendor that has a perfect rating on ebay and is based in the USA. ebay.us/Ded9nP
@@KissAnalog Seems good, but 5 times More Expensive than Mouser, DigiKey, Newark, etc. Avoid this seller and do not recommend it.
I only use these vendors when a part is out of stock form Mouser or DigiKey. Or if it has gone end of life when you can still find some parts in distribution for awhile.
@@KissAnalog sure, thanks
The retro computer scene is rife with counterfeit chips. Rubbing the top with acetone or alcohol usually reveals that they are fake. I try to buy from legit sellers when I can. Would like to see a video where you substitute the OPA2604 with a OPA604. Maybe do a prototype adapter board and then design it on PCBway?
Thanks - great input! I did consider making a board (and maybe will) to use two OPA604 OpAmps, but they are hard to find right now too. They are in production or are current parts, but non in stock where I can find.
I use specialist suppliers for obsolete parts; they are well aware of counterfeit parts and filter them out for you, that way you get good parts, though they cost more.
I bought two EEPROMs to repair my computer motherboard from Amazon, neither worked, but I was refunded the cost.
I ended up buying another motherboard, which worked.
We are still suffering semiconductor shortages from regular established suppliers here in the UK, hope it stabilises soon.
Thanks for the great feedback! I used to shop certain surplus shops like All Electronics, but who do you like?
@@KissAnalog I liked Mark 5, who changed their name to Godiac, after a long story, and TC Components, based on the Isle-of-Man.
I forgot about them. All Electronics used to be good but I forgot about them too - until writing this;)
@@KissAnalog Mark 5/Godiac is a family business, and TC Components is one guy. They are specialist small businesses, not corporations. There were other specialists who used to promote their services to us, targeting military equipment maintenance, and these were larger companies, with greatly inflated prices. Like 10 times what the others would charge. Needless to say, we quickly forgot about those. We have used another business called Little Diode, and Bowers Semiconductors are great for power semiconductor devices. With small businesses, unless father passes to son, expertise gets lost. Godiac and Bowers have both maintained their quality by passing down to the family like this.
Thanks so much!!
The most important that 2604 is a class A amplifier )) It's sad now I have to play a lott..y purchasing them in China. Because there is no such "spacy" and clear op amp. There are better ones, of course, but if your setup supposes to have a good stage (for some reason), opa2604 is what we need.
Yes I agree! Thank you! I do have a way around this - and I've just got to find time to do the video;)
So far I have not bought any counterfeit parts .. touch wood. There are just a few suppliers on eBay that I have had a long history with and I usually only use those suppliers. I agree about non-functional parts. They need to be discouraged.
Thanks for your feedback! I'd love to hear who your trusted suppliers are so I can put a list together.
@@KissAnalog I have had good luck with wonderco_buy, any of the G&C vendors, Techno Star (tehno*) , the-cases, myparts1111, sureelectronics, metric_screw_and_tool. There are more, but I can't remember their exact names. I'll recognize them when they come up in a search though. I have bought off chipsgate and never received a fake, but others have said they did.
Thanks so much!
Went through this when we were DAC opamp rolling. OPA627 were faked, but we worked out how to measure them.
It used to be that, for small qty for hobbyists, you could find surplus stock, but now you need to be careful of the counterfeits:(
did you give dual opa828 a shot as replacement for the phased out opa2604?
Thanks for asking! No the OPA828 has max voltage rails of +/- 18 V, and the OPA2604 can go to +/- 24 V. I needed the higher voltage.
Indeed you’re right about voltage, no late ti design have such wide voltage tolerance as 2604 I did upgrade my preamp opa2604 with an opa1656 mounted on dip8, both are Fet, 1656 being the closest match to 2604 in the currently produced opamp. Sound was very noticeably improved with 1656.
Find OPA2134pa very nice, have not hear this one you have here, atleast not to my own knowledge, still have not had a chance to true the burson v5i, really interested in that one
Thanks so much! I'll have to try the OPA2134PA;) In this application I really wanted an OpAmp with higher voltage rails.
thanks for your insight bro
No worries! Thanks so much!
It is frustrating. I have received DIP packages with perfect marking that act like they have no chip inside. I no longer leave good feedback until I test at lest one item per shipment
Thanks - that is a good tip!
good tips thanks
You bet! Thanks!
The big name semiconductor companies seem to be pretty good about consistent packaging for their modern components, so if you have a known good reference part from a major distributor, the packaging should be identical for similar date codes no matter where you buy from or where they've been made. If there are obvious or even subtle differences then it's probably counterfeit. You should never see wild variation in packaging and markings like this unless it's either old or coming from a no-name Chinese manufacturer.
That's true. If you are familiar with the manufacturer - you can identify their marking. Even across different chips they will be similar. I think the ceramic parts I show look like what I'm familiar with. Sloppy markings are a giveaway too.
Besides counterfeit op amps, please do a video about INTERCHANGEABILITY of various DIP-8 package op amps. Mis-information abounds about this topic on the internet. All DIP-8 op amps are NOT interchangeable with eachother just because they have 8 pins. I don't know of any other op amp chips that would be definitely SAFE to interchange in place of the 5532, other than this LM4562, for line-level signals. I have plugs installed in both players to make for easy changing of these chips, BUT putting the wrong op amp chip in there could damage the CDP-2A player. It seems only substituting bipolar chips for bipolar chips is the safest bet, but you hear of people substituting JFET chips in place of bipolar devices. Furthermore, the Burson V5i hybrid device claims to be a direct drop-in replacement for many bipolar and JFET chips....if such is the case, then all those many chips must be drop-in replacements with EACHOTHER, right??...this cannot be a 1-way-door, where the V5i replaces many, BUT those many are not interchangeable with eachother....something is wrong here!
Thanks for this great info - and you are right. I will have to do a video on this subject.
There are also over 100K Op549LH that are Chinese knock offs out there in circulation right now. The trick is that pin 8 which is supposed to short to case as a guard in fact does not make connection with the case and instead it's pin 4....
Thanks for the great tip!
Kiss thank you for this information. I never knew it can be this bad with fake or rebadged opamps. I will now watch this pitfall if I ever replace the NE5532 in my Revox since I still think they sould great till this very day. About ebay and amazon sales - here I have more experience - Both of them are not selling. The customer is buying. A huge difference really. So they are simply in the business of pushing stuff from A seller to B buyer. I avoid both of them and to reduce the risk when I use them, I always buy from anyone that accepts returns. Otherwise it is automatically tale quale. Anyways, thank again for sharing this information about opamps.
I don't know that much about this but why not limit to just the big distributors, like Digikey, Mouser, TME, Farnell, etc. I don't think these ones buy their components from anywhere but the official sources. I find Amazon and especially Ebay a bit too risky.
Great points! I usually buy from Mouser, but this is discontinued part so I had to go to other sources. I'll have to provide a list of trusted sources as I can put it together;)
Eddie I sent you a link for a cheap streaming kit. Make a second channel and just test it out with a friend on the other end.
As someone learning opamps and different synth circuits along with the usual stuff. You think your circuit is dicked so I reprototype it (I gave up on breadboards) on a piece of vector brand protoboard with a different ic in the same pack and it works.
Thanks so much Joey! I appreciate you! I'm still trying to catch up for a crappy January!
@Kiss Analog I think we're past the appreciating each other stage in our relationship hahaha
@Kiss Analog I'm going to register my channel name soon I think. We can do tests on there
Just don't buy from eBay. Buy the surface mount parts from a reputable supplier and put them on converter boards. AQ versions are early ceramic variants, probably new old stock. AP version is the most counterfeit since its in the plastic DIP package. They may be using some generic op amp and only marking them as they sell them, so they probably have a large stock of some generic and then when something gets ordered they just laser a new number/logo on top and ship it out whatever was ordered...
Yes, it is a jungel out there!
When I were in the market for buying there were a page that pointed out the counterfeits and original differences.
I saw that the most of the eBay listings were counterfeits on the pictures that were clear as day. Despite they stated in the listing "original"!
So I realized that there is so many and even if they stated "original" they most likely aren't!
When I only needed a pair I could resorted to buy from the manufacturer direct to a stupid huge price!
And the goal were to get and experience better sound and I figured if I took the chance to buy something of eBay then I get whatever and I could not guarantee what I am listening to.. and making wrong conclusions. 😞🎵🎼🎧🎶✔️
I guess if the parts are discontinued then it might be a good thing that someone is making them . That is if they actually work . I think that the proven good ones should be promoted as working parts .
Thanks - that was what I was thinking. But, this is a slippy slope;)
Will you post a link of the legit sellers?
Yes thanks for reminding me:) I’ll put that together.
Which op amp best for subwoofer lowpass filters
I would throw them all in the trash. I only buy ICs from reputable sources like DigiKey, Mouser, etc...
Thanks but these are discontinued so I have to find other sources for overstock parts - if they still exist;)
@@KissAnalog So what? Just buy the available IC's that are the newer replacements from reputable sources. Supporting counterfeits is the same as supporting criminals and thieves.
Yes I agree. But there are vendors who have real parts for some time after a part has gone end of life. These vendors will buy existing stock (sometimes from manufacturers who didn't use their stock because they redesigned it out) and they are real parts. These days the counterfeits are ruining this business - unless you know where to find ethical vendors. The parts generally cost much more because they're is only a small stock left, so this is one giveaway if the parts are a good price - they are most likely counterfeit.
@@KissAnalog NOS is ok, but counterfeits are not. There are no 'good' counterfeit components.
Wasn't ne5532p a Philips part?
Thanks - and you are correct. I loved the Philips parts;)
Why not buy from reputable dealers like Digi-key or Mouser?
Thanks! Yes, I normally start with Mouser, then go to Digi-Key if needed, and then there are other trusted distributors. But, when you want a part that is out of manufacturing, then surplus suppliers are the only bet. But - it it now becoming very sketchy with counterfeit parts.
Does an icon next to my name make me iconic...IMWTK!
LOL It sure does - at least in my eyes;)
Thanks
You bet! Thanks for your reply!
Получается что 2604 в керамике - не подделка?
Thanks - I think you are right;)
Does anyone know the advantage of a sealed ceramic op amp over a standard version (non ceramic)?
Military parts (before the COTS movement) had to use ceramic type instead of plastic because of the great temperature range and more hermetically sealed case. SPACE applications still require hermetically sealed or ceramic type parts.
@@KissAnalog Now I feel a little exclusive reading that…just ordered some..haha. I wonder how they will sound? I already have the standard version and I know, so far, that ceramic is not the most welcome material in audio, at least on earth…
Shocking
Thanks so much for your generosity!!
👍
Thank you!
Opa2134 on Amazon fake ?
Thank you! I suspect most OpAmps on Ebay and Amazon are fake - or at least a good portion - so buyer beware;)
@@KissAnalogThanks for reply. Yeah I was very skeptical, since Texas Instruments now owns Burr Brown . Thanks for you expertise.
I watch hours of your channel and know how busy you are. And respect your time teach the art.
Thanks so much!!
Counterfeit BB = Bad Bunny
Perfect!
Almost all counterfeit chips have laser etched marking. No valid manufacturer of IC chips uses laser etching.
Literally everyone uses laser marking, vintage parts - those were ink.
Very easy to make counterfeit ceramic parts, they just grab any cerdip part, laser off the top markings, and then either laser etch or print the desired part number on. After all, if you have a massive pile of salvaged chips, just sorted by package type, you will not even bother to see if the part you are doing is actually the right one, just place in the machine and click go.
Amazon does not care, all they do for returns is ding the seller the cost, and that is it, unless some large copyright holder, like the Rodent, the larger luxury good marketers, or the 2 big beverage holders, send them a take down. Even big brands like Rolex have a hard time with fakes, though buying a "Genuwine Rolllex" watch on Amazon kind of says it is not the real item.
Thanks for making this point. Anything can be counterfeited, but ceramics do cost a bit more so hopefully they are too greedy to go after the ceramics. In this case, the ceramic markings look great and not sloppy like the counterfeits. The price is high too, which would be expected.
Never buy ICs from ebay or Amazon. Power transistors are also a no-no. I ordered some power MOSFETs from amazon and they weren't even MOSFETs...
Great advice, and I would normally agree, but when you are scouting for surplus parts out of normal distribution - you may need to shop other sites. The old days this was safer, but now there are just too many counterfeits out there.
Instead of say these are counterfaite, we can try find trustable sellers, and make it available, like you do, fine thanks.
I often wonder what the incentive is in faking parts that cost cents to make genuine. Doesn't jibe. Expensive items, sure, but not these pissy little pieces that cost bugger all to make....
Great point! But what I think they do in some cases - is choose a part that sells well that has been discontinued - like this one. The vendor had their reasons - but there is still demand - so they print a new P/N on them and offer them as original. Also, this is 2x or 3x a standard part, so I guess the value is in pure numbers... But I'm just an engineer - not a bean counter;)
There is no genuine opa2604 anymore, all of them are fake. The ceramics are some restamped motorola opamps. Get Opa2134 from official sources.
Can you just get to the point omg
Sorry you didn't like it.
The IRFZ44 & 48 (less common), and others like AO3400, IRF840, IRF3205 etc. etc. are very common, sold by every man and his dog on AliExpress, as well as eBay (much less so). The vast majority have lower Rds, but few have lower Vds. But there is the complicated exception of the AO3400, because there actually are many version of it from different manufacturers, some of which are rated at 20V instead of the more common 30V ...yeah go figure! ...INSANE! That's it, not picking on the IRFZ44/48 per se! :)
Sorry, I meant HIGHER Rds above! :)
Thanks for this great info!
I live in Canada and have a real siglent sds2202x-e scope for sale. I paid over 900 after tax. If anyone in Canada wants a good deal on a decent scope I bought last July email me. I'm buying a rigol mdo with way more features and it's sample rate is 8gsa and has a touch screen.
I'll give a shout out on my next video about your scope for sale;)
Not having an EXACT symbol is 95% fake. Your experience bears that out.
When you get crap looking correct symbol, SOMETIMES they are factory rejects (i.e. a little out of specs - seconds).
New & Authentic in the description means NOTHING! They have no issue lying.
It is a bit of a mess though, especially with mosfets. Common mosfets like IRFZ44 are 99% fake, 50/50 chance of rejects or total crap sadly.
Thank you! You are so right! What's the deal with the IRF44? Was such a common transistor - a good one at that.
@@KissAnalog For hobbyists, such transistors are a great bargain, BECAUSE by testing their characteristics. marking them, you have a mosfet at pennies, useful for all but demanding circuits! :) ...and you may learn something too! Like how to test for switching speed etc. (for those more demanding projects) :)
@@KissAnalog I did forget to mention, like the crazy AO3400, there are several version (from different manufacturers) of the IRFZ44/48 out there, some with higher Rds, but legit, also NUTS!!!! From the Infineon specs you might expect 18mO but most are 28mO or worse! I sample test all mosfets, diodes and BJT, especially power ones. Most power devices are 1/2 or less in current handling ability. Another one to look for is carbide power diode diodes, they are usually normal schottky or worse! Maybe the seller hopes it will not blow up until well after your ability to get a refund. Op-Amps are a VERY MIXED bag. I have been mostly very lucky so far, even for expensive common types like the AD8628, I got 500 at US$0.14/ea fully in specs, NOW WAY HEY! Then I bought 3,000 LM358's at US$0.034, all garbage! ...GO FIGURE??????
BTW - BEWARE with re-orders, you may not get the same stuff - been bitten a few time after buying "test" samples!
Great advice! Thank you! @Steven Bliss