Usually these modules do current limiting by overriding the feedback pin on the buck controller, this means that if you suddenly shout circuit the output the current will be very high while the caps discharge and then go down as it starts gaining control of the output voltage. Because of this, I would advise not to connect a multimeter alone in current measuring mode as you'll be discharging the output caps with it, and maybe blowing the 10A fuse. Lab bench supplies have an active filter (power bjt or MOSFET with resistors in series) at the output that drops the voltage very quickly, reducing the short circuit transients, thus why it's fine to set the current limit using a multimeter. However, it's possible to use the multimeter alone to set the output current, just start with a very low voltage and only then put the multimeter into current measuring mode, that way the output caps will not be charged to a "dangerous if short circuited" voltage.
nice video ....mine wasn't even giving 200 W, so after watching your video i found the problem. My input dc ripple was the issue, after rectifying that, i was able to get 311.4 Watt for short period, then my dummy load burnt.... and was able to get 300 watt continuously with active cooling
For safe operation as a battery charger, or in case where it's output is connected in parallel with other voltage sources, you have to enable "Diode Emulation Mode" in the LM25116 controller. Otherwise this buck converter might destabilize into feeding large reverse currents back into the input.
Tell me more. I use a few in parallel. So if i use one, or a few, to charge a battery. And then use a car charger as well on same battery, it might run the wrong way?
Paralleling with resistors? Oh, I should have taken school more seriously.. what size? I'm still looking for diy for dummies video. And if the buck is rated for 300 watts does that go for the imput as well?..
Current limit gives more capability. If I get one, that's what I try to get. I also try to get buck/boost. Gives you more possibilities with the combination. Same idea as the MPPT controlers for solar. You may not get as high of current, but you get say 40v out if you've got 20v or 60v in.
Can you please advise as I'm thinking of using this as a DIY charger from a 24v supply and down to 21v 3.4A Do I need to put a bit of headroom like (21.1V and 3.5A)?
Can you recommend a boost converter with low RF noise, birdies, etc.? Preferably a module from Aliexpress, but there are so many. The converter should deliver a maximum of 19.5V and 10A at 13.8V input. It's intended for a mini-ITX motherboard used in an all-in-one SDR. Do you have any suggestions?
Can you tell me if you can limit the current at the low voltage limit? I.e., I have one of these DC-DC converters, set the voltage output to 1.2V (the lower limit) then wanted to limit the current to something like 0.5-0.8A but the lowest current I could get was 6A no matter how much I turned the CC potentiometer. I guess if the module controls current by lowering voltage that's a problem since it has nowhere to go at 1.2V, but I just wanted to ask since you have one of these modules too.
Dynamic test with a badly filtered unregulated supply as input - like what you would get from a transformer-rectifier filter cap feed a load would be interesting
Hi, cool video, thanks! Could you please fix the link to the electronic load module? The one you have in the description actually points to the dc converter and not the load.
BAD EXPERIENCE with that design, the Buck controller (on the other side of the pcb) blown out after regular use below the rated current, and the lack of printed model number and tiny pins makes it an hassle to replace. If you buy a product with this design, i suggest to add a small heatsink on the controller. Talking about heatsinks, the ones on the mosfets seems to work pretty good
@@SimpleElectronics i can't remember clearly since it was 4 years ago, but if i'm not wrong i used to chage li-ion batteries around 8-10A. I always had a fan on the heatsinks, but the other side of the pcb was always in contact with the wood table, so 0 airflow
Was just checking for reviews on this module and guess what, I already saw it since I am a subscriber. Seems this module is being used for a cheap MPPT on hackaday (Low cost solar panel solution (MPPT + sun tracker)) . I'll probably buy it and try it myself on my 100 Watt panel.
I am using 24V, 3A dc power supply for my project. I need 5V output and 800 mAmp Output at same time. Does decreasing the voltage will increase the output current.... as my arduino can't handle more than 1Amp and need 5V at same time. Can I use this. ?
Hi, thanks for the video. What is the minimum current that can be obtained on this converter for 5V and 12V? I saw for a while in your video 1A for 12V when you turned the CC potentiometer to the minimum value.
On a review of an aliexpress buyer I saw a comment that the lowest setting was 0.6 A. My guess is varies from converter to converter, but is rather high.
@@SimpleElectronics When you hear the stories about fires from 3D printers that the manufacturer tinned the wires instead of using ferrules, it makes you think.
@@Luke-san from what i read, solder filling end of wire is worst possible thing you can do there. Normal stranded wire should be good enough with some maintenance, also i heard those 3d printers just send too much current thru too little connectors.
@@plainedgedsaw1694 It made me think. Ideally it would be copper from the wire directly to the other point without anything in between that could be more resistive. I just checked it. Solder has about 6 times more resistance than copper which can explain that during high current these things heat up. But resistance is linear to the length (or thickness in this case), so in case of just tinning a wire I would suspect that the resistance is very very low. From what material is a ferrule made and what is the resistance? Questions lead to other questions in my head. (during a weekend damned) . Might be worth an experiment or some more input on how and why.
Damn i wanted to use this, but i need 15A at 12V (unmonitored), and my 4S3P 18650 battery pack is between 16.8V and 12V, so not always 3V difference. 😖 Doesnt look like i can use this 🫤
Usually these modules do current limiting by overriding the feedback pin on the buck controller, this means that if you suddenly shout circuit the output the current will be very high while the caps discharge and then go down as it starts gaining control of the output voltage. Because of this, I would advise not to connect a multimeter alone in current measuring mode as you'll be discharging the output caps with it, and maybe blowing the 10A fuse. Lab bench supplies have an active filter (power bjt or MOSFET with resistors in series) at the output that drops the voltage very quickly, reducing the short circuit transients, thus why it's fine to set the current limit using a multimeter.
However, it's possible to use the multimeter alone to set the output current, just start with a very low voltage and only then put the multimeter into current measuring mode, that way the output caps will not be charged to a "dangerous if short circuited" voltage.
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Way better results than I was expecting. Would have been interesting to see how itm behaves on 5V though, like for serial RGB LED strips.
Im charging 26650 lifep04 with that same dc to dc buck converter as i write this. I did relocate the voltage and amp pots.
nice video ....mine wasn't even giving 200 W, so after watching your video i found the problem. My input dc ripple was the issue, after rectifying that, i was able to get 311.4 Watt for short period, then my dummy load burnt.... and was able to get 300 watt continuously with active cooling
For safe operation as a battery charger, or in case where it's output is connected in parallel with other voltage sources, you have to enable "Diode Emulation Mode" in the LM25116 controller. Otherwise this buck converter might destabilize into feeding large reverse currents back into the input.
Tell me more. I use a few in parallel.
So if i use one, or a few, to charge a battery. And then use a car charger as well on same battery, it might run the wrong way?
Paralleling with resistors? Oh, I should have taken school more seriously.. what size? I'm still looking for diy for dummies video. And if the buck is rated for 300 watts does that go for the imput as well?..
Current limit gives more capability. If I get one, that's what I try to get. I also try to get buck/boost. Gives you more possibilities with the combination. Same idea as the MPPT controlers for solar. You may not get as high of current, but you get say 40v out if you've got 20v or 60v in.
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Can you please advise as I'm thinking of using this as a DIY charger from a 24v supply and down to 21v 3.4A
Do I need to put a bit of headroom like (21.1V and 3.5A)?
No you can go directly to 21v
Question ? We is the Sinus Wave and the Ripple. Your Video is very good.
Bonjour, il ne faut pas trop demander à ce genre de module ! Les Chinois sont généreux sur leurs performances 😀. Merci pour cette présentation 👍
jusqu'a date, ils fonctionnent pas mal bien! J'en suis surpris!
Can you recommend a boost converter with low RF noise, birdies, etc.?
Preferably a module from Aliexpress, but there are so many.
The converter should deliver a maximum of 19.5V and 10A at 13.8V input. It's intended for a mini-ITX motherboard used in an all-in-one SDR.
Do you have any suggestions?
That's pretty specialized - you'll have to spend some time reading descriptions!
Does this module have anti-backflow when the battery is connected without first connecting the module to a power supply?
I'm actually not sure about that - hmmm
Can you recommend a diode for protection?
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
¿Model, Type or Number Part?
TESTING
Atorch Baterry Tester/Dc Programmable Electronic Load.
Please.
Thank you very much for your attention.
So it can Boost low current to high current?
Ex: 1 amp boost to 10 Amps?
Can I use this device to drive a 12 V 8 A motor from a 550 W 48 V solar panel ?
Can I parallel two of this units and set their output voltage and current the same?
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Can 4 of these be paralleled to charge batteries from Solar panels?
On the input - yes. On the output - not likely as they would probably fight each other to regulate
@@SimpleElectronics Would using diodes on the output isolate the feedback voltage between them? And allow them to regulate and share the load?
Can you tell me if you can limit the current at the low voltage limit? I.e., I have one of these DC-DC converters, set the voltage output to 1.2V (the lower limit) then wanted to limit the current to something like 0.5-0.8A but the lowest current I could get was 6A no matter how much I turned the CC potentiometer. I guess if the module controls current by lowering voltage that's a problem since it has nowhere to go at 1.2V, but I just wanted to ask since you have one of these modules too.
That's an interesting observation, I'll take a look
@@SimpleElectronics thanks a lot
Thanks from Srilanka !
Learnt how to adjust the current in this module.👏👏🤲
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Thanks from Srilanka !
Learnt how to adjust the current in this module.
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Good video! With which converter can I get 5V and 15A at the output so that it does not overheat and shut down? Thank you
You just need a 75w + capable buck converter
@@SimpleElectronicsThank you! With what you're presenting, would you be able to achieve the parameters at the output 5V i 15A?
Them heatsinks make my mouth water 🥰
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
So CC setting in this video is with 10A multimeter load? How about using external load?
No, you have to set it with a short-circuit, the multimeter is acting like a short circuit here
Have you tried the kaiweets smart meters? They seem to have some handy features, but wondering if the accuracy is still good
I have not - they seem to have stopped sending me stuff - oh well!
Dynamic test with a badly filtered unregulated supply as input - like what you would get from a transformer-rectifier filter cap feed a load would be interesting
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Can I connect this directly to my 250 watts solar panel to give juice to a 100 watts water pump?
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Nice Experiment !
Hi, cool video, thanks! Could you please fix the link to the electronic load module? The one you have in the description actually points to the dc converter and not the load.
Hey can you try again? when I click it it brings me to the load?
Thanks for the quick reply, it's working now, I don't know why it was showing something else before.
BAD EXPERIENCE with that design, the Buck controller (on the other side of the pcb) blown out after regular use below the rated current, and the lack of printed model number and tiny pins makes it an hassle to replace. If you buy a product with this design, i suggest to add a small heatsink on the controller.
Talking about heatsinks, the ones on the mosfets seems to work pretty good
What current were you using it at? Under 20 is pretty vague, I would like to know precisely if possible.
@@SimpleElectronics i can't remember clearly since it was 4 years ago, but if i'm not wrong i used to chage li-ion batteries around 8-10A. I always had a fan on the heatsinks, but the other side of the pcb was always in contact with the wood table, so 0 airflow
@@gigigigiotto1673 Same, mine started smoking after 1min, but the top was fine
It even gets very hot without any load, but maybe mine is broken
Thanks for this test.
Was just checking for reviews on this module and guess what, I already saw it since I am a subscriber. Seems this module is being used for a cheap MPPT on hackaday (Low cost solar panel solution (MPPT + sun tracker)) . I'll probably buy it and try it myself on my 100 Watt panel.
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
could ne handy for the ebike/emotorcycle people for getting 12v for horns and lights etc, but i dont think these go upto like 80-90v in?
I don't think so no.
Interesting how it violently self oscillates when hitting current limit.
Thanks, but how did you draw a 2 amp current without a load at 07:21 ?
At 0.96 volts on the output of buck converter, in current limit mode, the voltage will decrease, resulting in reduced power.
I am using 24V, 3A dc power supply for my project.
I need 5V output and 800 mAmp Output at same time.
Does decreasing the voltage will increase the output current.... as my arduino can't handle more than 1Amp and need 5V at same time.
Can I use this. ?
Hi, thanks for the video. What is the minimum current that can be obtained on this converter for 5V and 12V? I saw for a while in your video 1A for 12V when you turned the CC potentiometer to the minimum value.
On a review of an aliexpress buyer I saw a comment that the lowest setting was 0.6 A. My guess is varies from converter to converter, but is rather high.
do you know a dc-dc 200+watt with a shunt on the positive side?
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Can i use this module to charge battery
With solar
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
Can i remove constant current pot to get current as load require to drain it as per it's need.
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
thats pretty good, I didnt think it would do more than 10 amps.
Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..
I see you had ferrules on the wires. Ferrules definitely make life easier and safer.
I love ferrules!
@@SimpleElectronics When you hear the stories about fires from 3D printers that the manufacturer tinned the wires instead of using ferrules, it makes you think.
@@bwselectronic I never ever have used them. Maybe I should after reading your comments.
@@Luke-san from what i read, solder filling end of wire is worst possible thing you can do there. Normal stranded wire should be good enough with some maintenance, also i heard those 3d printers just send too much current thru too little connectors.
@@plainedgedsaw1694 It made me think. Ideally it would be copper from the wire directly to the other point without anything in between that could be more resistive. I just checked it. Solder has about 6 times more resistance than copper which can explain that during high current these things heat up. But resistance is linear to the length (or thickness in this case), so in case of just tinning a wire I would suspect that the resistance is very very low. From what material is a ferrule made and what is the resistance? Questions lead to other questions in my head. (during a weekend damned) . Might be worth an experiment or some more input on how and why.
testa com motor de esteira, quero saber se ele faz o motor funcionar e se a força do motor continua a mesma
The problema of this module Is that broken itself. I ha have Just substitute four of this, but i don't understand because...
Nice information
Man kann nicht die Eingänge sehen welche Eingang Spannung 😊
You're lucky to have such cold temperatures. Here these devices (& humans) overheat quickly. Ambient is 37 to 40.c
That;s way too hot, I would melt!
Ic below gets overheat
Damn i wanted to use this, but i need 15A at 12V (unmonitored), and my 4S3P 18650 battery pack is between 16.8V and 12V, so not always 3V difference. 😖
Doesnt look like i can use this 🫤
No smoke😞
Not this time :)
👌👌👌👍👍👍👍🤝