One thing I learned from the hot wheels guys that's really helped with plastic and metal kits is to prime and look for mold lines again. Priming (and sometimes a bit of white or gray drybrushing) helps show the mold lines you might have missed the first time.
I have moved away from painting and flocking bases. I tried some of the Base Ready range from Geek Gaming Scenics and love the natural look. I’m now making my own by mixing soil, tile grout, static grass and flock, along with a bit of sand. It works great. I love the tackiness of their quick set basing glue, which is what they call “carpet tackifier” in the UK. I’m pretty sure I’ve found the equivalent here in the states. Most of the carpet glues here in the states are blue, and you would need to add paint, but I finally found one that dries clear. Buying it in bulk like that will save a ton, and making my own basing mixtures in bulk will allow me to use it on larger terrain pieces. #MLH
Another super cool way of doing this is to get a lighter and some milk carton plastic. I go outside and heat it up until it's nice and melty (not burny) than sculpt it by grabbing the "dry" parts or just using the lighter. Also comes out looking great!
A basing method I was shown years ago which is simple a effective and easy to master is using these materials. These are UK brands but I'm sure there's an equivalent Canadian brand. These are as followed applied in order. 1 Santex bitter chocolate exterior masonry paint, this is a thick paint applied generously on the base avoiding getting on the figures. 2 Sharpe sand this is a fine stone sand mix. Dip the base into the Sharpe sand getting a good coverage over base , remove and lightly tap off loose sand at this point you could edge the base with the paint if you want a brown edge to the base then leave to dry. 3 once dry again give a light tap to remove any other loose sand. First coat dry brush I use miniature paints sand colour. Second and final dry brush lighter still picking out the edges of the fine stone on the base miniature paints white or cream. 4 flocking the base to suit, I find small patches best effect. I find it simple to do relatively cheap and looks good.
My favorite tip that I picked up fairly recently was the broom bristles spears replacements, these far more versatile and hold better when glued to the miniatures for spears, flagpoles ect. 1 by plastic bristles broom with the thickness yoy required for your spears ect cut off what you need at length needed using a pair of mini flat jaw jewelry pliers squeeze end for spear point flat and either with hobby knife blade or sharp small scissors cut spear point. You can ad a small amount of superglue to give the point strength and form, afix to figure wit same superglue paint appropriately and yo gave a spear or flagpole with a bit of bend and that doesn't pop off with handling. I've use thes on 15mm hoplites as well as as 28mm flags, with a bit of fiddling and shaping you can do all sorts of weapons including saber blades or even lost bayonets if need be.
So painting the inside of the flag and varnishing it will protect the flag from bleeding? I had an issue with 1812 Russian flags that bled through a purple/pink colour as the white glue must have mixed with the ink on the flag
One thing I learned from the hot wheels guys that's really helped with plastic and metal kits is to prime and look for mold lines again. Priming (and sometimes a bit of white or gray drybrushing) helps show the mold lines you might have missed the first time.
Awesome tip!
I have moved away from painting and flocking bases. I tried some of the Base Ready range from Geek Gaming Scenics and love the natural look. I’m now making my own by mixing soil, tile grout, static grass and flock, along with a bit of sand. It works great. I love the tackiness of their quick set basing glue, which is what they call “carpet tackifier” in the UK. I’m pretty sure I’ve found the equivalent here in the states. Most of the carpet glues here in the states are blue, and you would need to add paint, but I finally found one that dries clear. Buying it in bulk like that will save a ton, and making my own basing mixtures in bulk will allow me to use it on larger terrain pieces. #MLH
Awesome tip. I will check this glue out!
Another super cool way of doing this is to get a lighter and some milk carton plastic. I go outside and heat it up until it's nice and melty (not burny) than sculpt it by grabbing the "dry" parts or just using the lighter. Also comes out looking great!
Cool idea I will have to try it!
A basing method I was shown years ago which is simple a effective and easy to master is using these materials. These are UK brands but I'm sure there's an equivalent Canadian brand. These are as followed applied in order. 1 Santex bitter chocolate exterior masonry paint, this is a thick paint applied generously on the base avoiding getting on the figures. 2 Sharpe sand this is a fine stone sand mix. Dip the base into the Sharpe sand getting a good coverage over base , remove and lightly tap off loose sand at this point you could edge the base with the paint if you want a brown edge to the base then leave to dry. 3 once dry again give a light tap to remove any other loose sand. First coat dry brush I use miniature paints sand colour. Second and final dry brush lighter still picking out the edges of the fine stone on the base miniature paints white or cream. 4 flocking the base to suit, I find small patches best effect. I find it simple to do relatively cheap and looks good.
Hey this is a good method! Thanks for sharing it.
My favorite tip that I picked up fairly recently was the broom bristles spears replacements, these far more versatile and hold better when glued to the miniatures for spears, flagpoles ect. 1 by plastic bristles broom with the thickness yoy required for your spears ect cut off what you need at length needed using a pair of mini flat jaw jewelry pliers squeeze end for spear point flat and either with hobby knife blade or sharp small scissors cut spear point. You can ad a small amount of superglue to give the point strength and form, afix to figure wit same superglue paint appropriately and yo gave a spear or flagpole with a bit of bend and that doesn't pop off with handling. I've use thes on 15mm hoplites as well as as 28mm flags, with a bit of fiddling and shaping you can do all sorts of weapons including saber blades or even lost bayonets if need be.
Interesting I have never heard of this!
Thanks for adding the size of the drill bit for drilling the hands of the flag bearers. I've been trying to figure that out!
Glad to help!
My favorite basing material is coffee grounds. Its cheap and its already brown:). I have put flags on upside down as well.
I am glad you have shared the inverted flag pain with me!
MLH makes really good and informative videos! #MLH
Thanks
Dry crushed tea leaves can be used for realistic ground cover for bases #MLH
Good one. I have used this for deadfall in forests too!
I normally cut some tin foil and place it into the centre of the flag leaving enough room around the edges to glue you get great folds in your flags.
That's a great idea!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
So painting the inside of the flag and varnishing it will protect the flag from bleeding? I had an issue with 1812 Russian flags that bled through a purple/pink colour as the white glue must have mixed with the ink on the flag
Yes a layer of varnish should fix that.
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