very enjoyable presentation! your communication style is great and your information is amazingly comprehensive...so many review videos leave so many questions unanswered, and you seem to take all things into consideration nicely...thanks!
Not sure if you know or not but there are power inverters that go from 12v dc to 110 ac which will allow you to use your wall charger in a vehicle. Myself I have a 140 watt inverter that I keep in my van in case I need to change my yeti 400 during a power outage. Just some food for thought.
Keep in mind you do not have to keep the fridge plugged into it continually. Especially if it is cloudy/rainy days. If you are not continually getting into the fridge you can go hours without needing to make that compressor run.
I would be wary of that idea. Especially in the triple digit heat and humidity of the south. Cold food needs to stay below 40°F to prevent food poisoning. My goal is to run it no more than 3 days. After that the power is on, or my perishable food is eaten. The freezer should be canned for long term storage if it looks that bad.
I love your enthousiasm! I discovered your channel due to my own passion with notebooks (own my own channel about it), but I'm also interested in this ;) (seems like we are like minded people)
Please be aware, maam, that the amount of storage (batteries) is only part of the equation. How large the inverter inside will produce is the other side (plus the amount of input source). If you plug in a total of devices that use 600 watts at one time and your inverter is only 400 watts you will burn open the inverter (or cause a trip if it has a manual reset button). Please beware of this prior to attempting to plug in things. You must calculate the total need. And that requires you to calculate the amount of total possible watt use at a given time (like when all devices are trying to start at one time for instance). You can look a the name plate on devices to determine the rated amp draw (a watt is an amp times a volt). So if you have a 4 amp refrigerator, as an example that is using 120 volts you can determine that the wattage would be 480. So if your inverter will produce only 400 watts, you've exceeded it's maximum. You would then need a larger inverter. Hope that helps. al
I've seen those around, definitely interested in them if I ever need to replace my goal zero. Would love to see any videos you have posted. Thanks for watching!
adding panels shortens charging time or you can run just off your panels. adding batteries doesn't up the wattage unless you have a larger inverter. the goal zero is maxed at 400W max.
Attempting to buy solar unit for a relative in San Juan, PR. Wondered if you could answer a few questions for me. The easiest thing is to purchase items that draw low-to-medium power. I have chosen: (1) 4 Milwaukee battery operated fans that require daily charging of 6 12v to 18v batteries on a stationary power dock (2) The Big Kahuna shower with a heating element (2x per day) (3) Haier portable washer (4 x a week) (4) 3-4 Power Core Anker power banks (2 x per week) (5) Twin burners for boiling water (daily) These items would not run at the same time except when they'd need to do so in a pinch. Seems to me a better solar choice wld be one that would simultaneously charge (input) and deliver power (output). Agreed solar lingo is not easy and is confusing. Perhaps you'd be willing to help with my choice. I know you'd need further specs. Pls let me know. Thanks.
If you have access to Costco they have a newer lithium version that is really nice. I just upgraded mine although this unit still runs well and I've had no issues with it at all. The newer unit will run my house frig if I need it for a few. Thanks for watching. Prayers for your relative.
Is there a limit to the size of solar panel that it's compatible with? The ones they try to sell with it on ebay are tiny and would take forever to charge it.
Hi Melissa. I started with the Escape 350 w/inverter over the Yeti 1250 for weight and portability reason in my tent trailer. I later acquired a Yeti 400 for the bells and whistles. Chained together I have 800 wh. With two more batteries, I'll have more Whs then the Yeti 1250 with less cost and weight. Plus survivability redundancy should one inverter fail. But, this is more for home now. I have a different trailer, now. Good luck......Duane
Thanks Duane, I'm kinda leaning in that direction to start off with for sure. So simple to toss in a couple more batteries and do fine. Thanks for watching.
Can anyone tell me the life expectancy of the batteries in these things ? I've had the yeti 400 and yeti 150 for about two years and have never really had an emergency situation where I've had to use them a lot. I'm wondering how long the batteries stay viable if they are kept charged and put up in a safe dry area . 5 years ? 10 years ? Finding a answer to this has proven impossible thus far. Im hoping someone who has had one of these models for many years will read this !! Ty from Alaska ;)
I've had mine about a year longer and they are both still "like new". I have never run them below 50%. But not using super heavy use either. Just for emergencies and a few camping trips. So far I'm pleased that I'm definitely getting my monies worth. I know I could "build" one for cheaper but I like the form, so I'm happy. I also keep my plugged in so it stays charged at all times. I think care and usage would play into the longevity any battery unit.
We are in this similar situation where last year we bought the Yeti 400 and a boulder 90watt Solar panel. Not knowing at the time that we would need more power. Was looking for videos hoping to find someone reusing their Yeti 400 and chaining them to run a fridge. Thank you for this video. How many batteries chained did you finally end up getting? How is this working for you to date?
I changed two. I still have this unit and it works well. I also upgraded with the Yeti 1000 lithium, and have used them both when power fails at home. Saved my food.
you can always charge via the output ports. It's very important though if you want to hook it up parallel via the anderson port cable to ensure both your goal zero and the external battery are initially charged up to 100%. When you hook them up parallel, it becomes one battery.
Hello Melissa, Some people really do it right on UA-cam and you are one of them. Thank you for the links, this video was what I was looking for. I have a couple of questions. Your link for the Renogy 100 watt panel is the suitcase version with a controller. I see that Renogy has the same set up w/o a controller. Doesn't the yeti400 have that function covered? If so I could save a few $s, let me know if I'm missing something. Secondly I noticed that Goal Zero panels are rated at 18 to 22 volts and Renogy is rated at 12 volts, is this a compatability issue for the yeti400? I don't want to pay the high price goal zero is charging. thank for the great video.
I'm looking at the Renogy as a piggy back for a larger battery bank. I will max out on solar panels for the controller in the Goal Zero at 120 watts. But I can if I add a second controller, charge the same bank of batteries. And no many people are using the Renogy panels for charging so yes you can purchase a Renogy panel and use it as your main panels to charge your goal zero set-up. Goal zero is excellent at answering questions about the different set ups you may wish to experiment with. That is one thing I love about the company. For me that made it very helpful to start off small and be able to add on as my energy needs increase. Thanks for watching. Let me know how you set your system up. I love hearing how others find solutions. :)
It's pretty expensive, and as others have posted if you are handy you can build your own for less money. For me it was portability and form factor that made my decision. You can check out current prices off of Amazon or from Goal Zeros website. Hope that helps.
You are better off building your own system rather than buying a goal zero system. the goal zero is made for the person who doesn't know anything about DIY.That all being said I have a get to 1250 with a 285 watt panel perminately mounted out side. It runs my GE HE fridge indefinatly.
Inverter output is 300 watt continuous, 600 watt surge. the number 400 refers to 400 watthours, the energy capacity of the battery in the yeti 400. Hope that clears things up.
very enjoyable presentation! your communication style is great and your information is amazingly comprehensive...so many review videos leave so many questions unanswered, and you seem to take all things into consideration nicely...thanks!
Good for you! Things are looking pretty good. Thanks for posting...
Not sure if you know or not but there are power inverters that go from 12v dc to 110 ac which will allow you to use your wall charger in a vehicle. Myself I have a 140 watt inverter that I keep in my van in case I need to change my yeti 400 during a power outage.
Just some food for thought.
I know this is an older comment. I haven't been uploading videos on youtube for some time. But yes I do this as well, esp now that I got my prius.
Keep in mind you do not have to keep the fridge plugged into it continually. Especially if it is cloudy/rainy days. If you are not continually getting into the fridge you can go hours without needing to make that compressor run.
Thanks for the suggestion. Will definitely come in handy. Thanks for watching!
I would be wary of that idea. Especially in the triple digit heat and humidity of the south. Cold food needs to stay below 40°F to prevent food poisoning.
My goal is to run it no more than 3 days. After that the power is on, or my perishable food is eaten. The freezer should be canned for long term storage if it looks that bad.
I love your enthousiasm! I discovered your channel due to my own passion with notebooks (own my own channel about it), but I'm also interested in this ;) (seems like we are like minded people)
Thanks for watching. :)
Please be aware, maam, that the amount of storage (batteries) is only part of the equation. How large the inverter inside will produce is the other side (plus the amount of input source). If you plug in a total of devices that use 600 watts at one time and your inverter is only 400 watts you will burn open the inverter (or cause a trip if it has a manual reset button). Please beware of this prior to attempting to plug in things. You must calculate the total need. And that requires you to calculate the amount of total possible watt use at a given time (like when all devices are trying to start at one time for instance). You can look a the name plate on devices to determine the rated amp draw (a watt is an amp times a volt). So if you have a 4 amp refrigerator, as an example that is using 120 volts you can determine that the wattage would be 480. So if your inverter will produce only 400 watts, you've exceeded it's maximum. You would then need a larger inverter. Hope that helps. al
Great review, should do well in a camper van, look forward to the videos, thanks for sharing.
thank you very much
I love my Kodiak I can bring in 600 watts of solar and charge the whole system in less than 2 hours.
I've seen those around, definitely interested in them if I ever need to replace my goal zero. Would love to see any videos you have posted. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful, thanks.
adding panels shortens charging time or you can run just off your panels. adding batteries doesn't up the wattage unless you have a larger inverter. the goal zero is maxed at 400W max.
Will it run my projector and speakers for movie night
Chrysler Pacifica plug in hybrid is my next vehicle.
Attempting to buy solar unit for a relative in San Juan, PR. Wondered if you could answer a few questions for me. The easiest thing is to purchase items that draw low-to-medium power. I have chosen:
(1) 4 Milwaukee battery operated fans that require daily charging of 6 12v to 18v batteries on a stationary power dock
(2) The Big Kahuna shower with a heating element (2x per day)
(3) Haier portable washer (4 x a week)
(4) 3-4 Power Core Anker power banks (2 x per week)
(5) Twin burners for boiling water (daily) These items would not run at the same time except when they'd need to do so in a pinch. Seems to me a better solar choice wld be one that would simultaneously charge (input) and deliver power (output).
Agreed solar lingo is not easy and is confusing. Perhaps you'd be willing to help with my choice. I know you'd need further specs. Pls let me know. Thanks.
If you have access to Costco they have a newer lithium version that is really nice. I just upgraded mine although this unit still runs well and I've had no issues with it at all. The newer unit will run my house frig if I need it for a few. Thanks for watching. Prayers for your relative.
Is there a limit to the size of solar panel that it's compatible with? The ones they try to sell with it on ebay are tiny and would take forever to charge it.
You also can adding on and use pedal powered back up from human's power during rainy days as your long term power outage.
Hi Melissa. I started with the Escape 350 w/inverter over the Yeti 1250 for weight and portability reason in my tent trailer. I later acquired a Yeti 400 for the bells and whistles. Chained together I have 800 wh. With two more batteries, I'll have more Whs then the Yeti 1250 with less cost and weight. Plus survivability redundancy should one inverter fail. But, this is more for home now. I have a different trailer, now. Good luck......Duane
Thanks Duane, I'm kinda leaning in that direction to start off with for sure. So simple to toss in a couple more batteries and do fine. Thanks for watching.
Can anyone tell me the life expectancy of the batteries in these things ? I've had the yeti 400 and yeti 150 for about two years and have never really had an emergency situation where I've had to use them a lot. I'm wondering how long the batteries stay viable if they are kept charged and put up in a safe dry area . 5 years ? 10 years ? Finding a answer to this has proven impossible thus far. Im hoping someone who has had one of these models for many years will read this !! Ty from Alaska ;)
I've had mine about a year longer and they are both still "like new". I have never run them below 50%. But not using super heavy use either. Just for emergencies and a few camping trips. So far I'm pleased that I'm definitely getting my monies worth. I know I could "build" one for cheaper but I like the form, so I'm happy. I also keep my plugged in so it stays charged at all times. I think care and usage would play into the longevity any battery unit.
50% rule is the key to longevity
Get a little Honda eu generator and you might be golden
So cool!
We are in this similar situation where last year we bought the Yeti 400 and a boulder 90watt Solar panel. Not knowing at the time that we would need more power. Was looking for videos hoping to find someone reusing their Yeti 400 and chaining them to run a fridge. Thank you for this video.
How many batteries chained did you finally end up getting? How is this working for you to date?
I changed two. I still have this unit and it works well. I also upgraded with the Yeti 1000 lithium, and have used them both when power fails at home. Saved my food.
Will this be enough to power up a sump pump?
Not sure, it's a smaller application device, check out some of their newer lithium line generators. I'd think that maybe a better option for you.
i bought the same cable from powerwerrx, and didn't fit to the same battery that u got!, should i call migtymax??
Cesar Gonzalez sounds like you got the wrong cable. Yeah I’d call.
it was the screws from migtymax :( , they sent me the right ones :)
can the yeti charge the exra battery I bougt a agm charger is it needed? I msynot have it hooked up all the time
you can always charge via the output ports. It's very important though if you want to hook it up parallel via the anderson port cable to ensure both your goal zero and the external battery are initially charged up to 100%. When you hook them up parallel, it becomes one battery.
Hello Melissa,
Some people really do it right on UA-cam and you are one of them. Thank you for the links, this video was what I was looking for. I have a couple of questions. Your link for the Renogy 100 watt panel is the suitcase version with a controller. I see that Renogy has the same set up w/o a controller. Doesn't the yeti400 have that function covered? If so I could save a few $s, let me know if I'm missing something. Secondly I noticed that Goal Zero panels are rated at 18 to 22 volts and Renogy is rated at 12 volts, is this a compatability issue for the yeti400? I don't want to pay the high price goal zero is charging. thank for the great video.
I'm looking at the Renogy as a piggy back for a larger battery bank. I will max out on solar panels for the controller in the Goal Zero at 120 watts. But I can if I add a second controller, charge the same bank of batteries. And no many people are using the Renogy panels for charging so yes you can purchase a Renogy panel and use it as your main panels to charge your goal zero set-up. Goal zero is excellent at answering questions about the different set ups you may wish to experiment with. That is one thing I love about the company. For me that made it very helpful to start off small and be able to add on as my energy needs increase. Thanks for watching. Let me know how you set your system up. I love hearing how others find solutions. :)
How long can I use my electric toothbrush?
LOL, until your battery dies?
Can u tell me what goal zero cost please?
It's pretty expensive, and as others have posted if you are handy you can build your own for less money. For me it was portability and form factor that made my decision. You can check out current prices off of Amazon or from Goal Zeros website. Hope that helps.
You are better off building your own system rather than buying a goal zero system. the goal zero is made for the person who doesn't know anything about DIY.That all being said I have a get to 1250 with a 285 watt panel perminately mounted out side. It runs my GE HE fridge indefinatly.
Hi Melissa, have you seen SolPad yet?
No I have not. You got a link?
amazing!!!!!!!!
solpad.com/
Thanks the geek in me can't wait to check these guys out!
Go for kodiak if you have money.
I've looked at the Kodiak and won't lie they look interesting. I would like not to have to start over, perhaps when I upgrade. Thanks for watching.
your max output is 400 watts cause of the inverter doesn't matter how many panels you have
Inverter output is 300 watt continuous, 600 watt surge. the number 400 refers to 400 watthours, the energy capacity of the battery in the yeti 400. Hope that clears things up.