What a lovely video! I hope the pen's former owner gets to see this video because I'm certain he would be moved by the care you took in bringing this pen back to top condition.
Yes, older MBs have that kind of nib. 149s specially. The 149 EF I got from 70s is full on Architect. Also an EEF that is super sharp and super scratchy. But not misaligned. They are good. This one is probably mid to late 80s. Earlier [70s] ones have different feeds. Newer feeds are garbage [fins are so fragile] ! Piston knob play is normal. I wish you greased the piston 😀.
For the most part the 146 had the same feed (split ebonite) from its 1970s reintroduction until the advent of the ugly plastic feed in the 90s. The exception is a few very early pens that had solid ebonite feeds, but I have yet to see one come up for sale in the past few months, while I have seen dozens of early 70s pens with the early 14C nib--sharp tip of the border line instead of the little rounded shape that they used on all the following nibs.
I have a 146, my girlfriend of that time bought it for me for Christmas. I have the instruction leaflet, it has a date page on the inside cover, it’s dated 23/12/88. It has the 2 tone nib, brass piston threads, W.Germany on the clip, and the ink window with the vertical black lines through it. Medium nib. I haven’t used it much so it’s in really nice condition. I have just spend a few hours flushing it with water to clean it out, as it’s not been used for 25 years. I hadn’t realised how iconic the pen is, I am very lucky.
I just bought this exact pen. Also has "Germany" on the band (without the W), split ebonite feed, gray ink window, brass parts. Thanks for giving a tutorial on cleaning it up. Now I need to decide if I've got the confidence to repair micro-scratches on the cap myself
I love watching pens get restored! But that rattlesnake is getting me rattled every time I see it.....its so fucking beautiful. Haha if he makes more kinds of snake pen holders...I WANT THEM ALL!!
Thank you for teaching us how to do this. That nib design looked art deco and really clever. It seems to allow for more writing angles! As always, very cool video!!!
I just picked up a used 149 this week. It doesn’t look like it needs much restoration, but I’ll be sure to put it in the ultrasound cleaner before I ink it up.
My 146 along with my Pelikan 800 are my two smoothest writing pens. i would say your pen comes from the 80's, but no later than late 80's as they were transitioning to two tone nibs then.
Were the nibs sparring or just trading fluids? Either way it’s going to lead to a heavier HR file. So satisfying to watch the shine come back!! Well done. One thing I learned is that some caps still said W. Germany even into the early ‘90s despite the reunification in 1990. MB is special.
Dear Doodlebug: 2 things, masking tape is much better for covering, leaves no glue, easy to remove. Also, I have found the micro mesh pads to be the best way to polish. Flexes around the pen.
13:33 The gap you’re talking about in this timing it’s because the iridium tip is soldered by laser and then a very thin saw cuts surface until the hole. This is after the nib has been molded. When that cut is done, both wings of the nib spreads to right and left respectively. Once it’s mounted to the final pen, an artisan adjust it with a very fine plyers without scratching the surface. I think that these tools are made of stainless steel. In this adjustment process it’s possible that both iridium half tips can be moved up and down, right to left and viceversa, and maybe needs some oblique movement. I thing that the gap you’re referring to, it’s caused by last movement said.
13:19 I have a vintage Parker 51 with a tip like that, it's broader when the angle is flatter. I am not sure if it's factory or if that was made by somebody, no idea where the pen exactly come from beside being bought from a shop in Serbia
Excellent demonstration on how to revive a wonderful pen. One day I will acquire a 146. It is certainly worth the time and effort to make this pen a glorious pen. Thank you again.
The extended "blade" or "chisel" shape to the tipping is an old Montblanc characteristic--another tell of the stock grind is the flattened circle on the top side of the tipping. It is ground this way to keep the nib writing smooth even when the pen is held at angles close to perpendicular. Have you been able to get a smooth nib without touching the inner tine walls? In my experience, rubbing away on micromesh does more damage than good because it re-squares the inner tines, making them cut into the paper. It only works well if the original grind is a little too generous on the inner tines and not flat enough on the writing surface. Ironically, it helps a lot to gently take the edge off the top side of the nib, 7000 grit sandpaper with the pen held feed-side up in writing position, then gently rolled against the abrasive, edges first. A few very gentle swipes may be all that's needed.
Great video, DB! I was wondering if you were gonna remove the nib section, pull the nib, & remove the piston. That takes a couple of specialty wrenches, or a couple of paper clips if you’re very brave. But looks like you cleaned the pen very effectively without disassembly. BTW, my 146 has a bit of play in the piston knob as well. Thanks for all the great content!
Excellent job. You did not have to completely disassemble the pen so you did only what was necessary since the cleaned piston worked fine. That’s what excellent restoration is all about. If it isn’t broke don’t fix it 😊. That ink widow puts that model in the mid-eighties I think. Not 100% sure. Thanks!👍👍👍 PS: did the piston seem lubed enough to work really smoothly? Just wondering.
Piston seemed much smooth & more fluid after the cleaning. Didn't want to take things apart that were in good condition. Can have a risk of breaking something that wasn't broken. Like you said, only need to fix what needs fixing. If she has issues with the piston at some point I'll take it apart further. Writes wonderfully now & no skipping whatsoever. That nib point was very unique, never seen that before
I always love those vintage monotone nibs. If I had to guess, I'd say the pen is from anywhere between the mid 70's to the late 80's, since that's when they had monotone nibs for that model.
There were some changes late 70s early 80s with respect to the ink window color & piston mechanism material. This one is onces those changes came in so mid 80s somewhere
Doesn’t the W Germany stand for West Germany on these? So this one should be from after november 89 then, when there was no west germany anymore following the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end of the DDR (east germany)?
Touching tips???!!!???😂😂😂 I mean nibs…. 😂 Super awesome video! Pen looks wonderful!! Can I send you my 80’s 149???? (Let me know where to direct myself if that’s an option😆)
The Berlin Wall fell in November of 1989 and East and West Germany United some time after that. The pens were marked W-Germany before they were united and just Germany after that. So I'd say it's in the early 1990s. It looks very much like the 146 I got back then too. I have a 120(? also called Classique) which is the smallest/thinnest of the Meisterstück line and a cartridge/converter pen that is marked W-Germany and which I got in the early 1980s. Hmm... I guess that means I'm OLD!
Suggestion for the cheapest tool to take out piston without damaging? I don't think I need to take the nib out, though it does have quite the patina on it that I'd like to restore to its original brightness if possible.
The cheapest tool is bending a paperclip and then squishing it the piston knob and then turning to remove the piston. I don't know if I would do that method as there is a risk of having a pressure point where the knob meets the paperclip, but a doesn't get much cheaper than a paperclip!
@@Doodlebud Love the improvisation. I’d also consider machining it if I had a mill handy. However given the value and the fact that it was a gift I’d like to use something designed for it. Did you mention there was another purpose built tool that fits the 146 that’s available for purchase somewhere? Also your suggestion for getting the nib bright and shiny with minimal risk & effort would be welcome. I don’t have an ultrasonic bath yet but this could be the use case that leads me to get one if there’s a decent chance it’ll work.
W. Germany is West Germany so the Parts from France England and US 1989 was the " Mauerfall" people from East Germany had enough so even tho the guards had to shoot they dropt the wall after that West and East Reunited in the end of 1990 so i would assume the Pen without the W is made after 1990 Its the Same with German tools in most Workshops you will find some old Tools marked "Made in W. Germany"
Did you want to know why the back of the nib was flat? From what I have read, it is decorative. I searched and searched to find the reason for it, and that's all I could find. Surprized you haven't seen that before, because Montblancs and Pelikans have their nibs cut like that. Check your MB 149, Lamy Dialog and M800. My MBs, Lamys, and Pelikans have it, in addition to Sailor. On my OMAS so do, and some don't, but I like it.
Hmmm, I didn't have that type of grind on my MB or Pelikan but maybe that has to do with nib point size? Same with my Lamy medium gold nib, has a standard shape as well. Guess all we can say is there is some variety of tipping shapes out there!
@@Doodlebud Hmmmm, maybe EFs and Fs don't have it because it is a smaller tip? You could be onto something, but surprized the Lamy medium didn't have it. I just checked my 146 with a F nib, and it has the flat back grind. Maybe it depends on when it was made. I just looked up a video I watched a day ago about a MB145 with a fine nib, and it also has that grind. Curious now, I'm going to rewatch your M800 and 149 just to see it. Fascinating.
Unfortunately I don't do a service like that. If you search around you can probably find those who do. I do the videos to act as a reference for others who want to give it a try
considering from the time this pen was made in I recon that w-germany stands for West Germany. Quite a lot of things here do have something similar to that. One of my Vintage lighters says made in west germany.
Polish it up, then rest it on a rough textured metal stand 🥴 I'm sure it was fine, but it just reminded me of polishing a car and having the customer come over and run their finger down the side of the car to say how nice it is and all i can see is a big scratch all the way down the newly polished car simply from their finger
I have that exact pen. The ink leaks on what I believe is the trim ring where it leave ink on the left side of my middle finger (right handed). How would I go about fixing that?
I have a question. I recently purchased a couple of Jinhao X159 with the #8 nibs. And I got one in Maroon or burgundy. Whatever they are calling it. But when I got mine it looks brown. Also it looks flat and lacks luster. I question if it’s possessed that I got a knockoff of an already cheaper pen? Because I saw Inkquiringminds Jinhao x159 and it looks beautiful. It’s actually a deep beautiful red and has depth and is shiny. Mine is everything opposite and am very dissatisfied. Now I’m considering purchase another one from someone else in the hopes I just got a knockoff the first time around. But what product can I use to shine this up? Do I literally do exactly what you just did in this video? Idk what this thing is actually made of. So I don’t know if it would take to sanding and everything. But what simple and easy way can I try to take out the scratches and maybe give this some depth of color and shine without spending tons of money? Also is it the creams you are putting on along with the cloth you used that shines it up and removes the fine scratches? Maybe it’s because I haven’t slept all night that nothing is entering my brain and understanding what is explained in your video. Sorry for the rambling. Any help would be much appreciated. @Doodlebud
I got the pen almost scratch free from the sanding and polish system I showed. The final "smoothing" can from using that polishing cloth (which has stuff impregnated within), then the final polishing with the conservators wax. Its a slow process but can turn out nicely. I imagine that the X159 is abs plastic but not sure. This is the method I used but it seems every person who restores pens have their own favorite system/method. So guess its watcha few vids, see how they do it, and then see if the stuff they use is easily available to you.
@@Doodlebud sounds good. Okay thanks much. That helps. And since it didn’t cost much at all I suppose I can go for it once I find a system I like. I guess I didn’t want to spend money on stuff that I won’t really have much use for unless I decide to Polish all my pens. Which I suppose I would do if I buy all the stuff to do it. Also I have a jewelry (grey color) polishing cloth that is impregnated as well. Maybe this is the same cloth as you have. Or similar. Thanks again. You’re a great help. I love you videos and everything you show us. One day if I get the chance to get an amazing MB pen or a Classic Pens I would like to know what I’m doing by then. Cheers
Hey, Mr. Bud. I have a Montblanc Classique 6-10 years old. The cap is chipped around the opening. About 3/8" long and less than 1/8" up from the rim. Can you repair / replace? I'll check your home page to see if I can find other contact information.
Hey there, unfortunately I don't do repairs on pens other than my own. If google search for fountain pen repairs Im sure you'll find someone that can help you out.
G'day, Doodlemate. Thanks for a really enjoyable post. The pen holder is quite impressive. Some say Renaissance Wax is bad for pens--what has been your experience? All the best from Dead Wombat Creek.
Unless you press down on the pen and deliberately rub it around on the holder I don't think you'll get any scratches. I tried many pens and had no issues
10:58 I was wondering how you know what shim to use on each nib? I have seen you use .0015 before. This time 0.04mm. Wait is that the same? Idk. Lol. If it’s not, how do you know what she size to use? Cheers @Doodlebud
Yup, its the same. 0.0015" (multiply by 25.4 mm/inch) = 0.038mm. I rounded to 0.04mm just for reference. Its the ballpark number I look for with a nib. They can work just fine with a closer gap, but just depends on the pen. I try to find the gap that makes the pen perform its best
@@Doodlebud I had a feeling I was being an idiot the minute I wrote that too. Lol. Okay that’s. I did have a question. I’ve watched many a vod, including a few of yours, about how to separate the tips of the tines when they are so tight at the tip they keep crossing. I have 3 nibs that so this bad. 2 Bocks and a in house The Good Blue nib. I have done the trios of pulling them apart and holding. Over and over again. I cannot get the tip of the tines to budge at alla the Bocks are just so thick and stiff I’m having no luck. And the Good Blue is a flex nib. All the way through the distance is really good. But the tip, just flip over no matter what I do. I was wondering if there is some other magically feat I can do to fix this mahout issue for me? Any info will be much appreciated. Cheers
I've heard people slipping in the shims (brass or feeler gauges) and leaving them in there for 10min or so to help open up the nib a bit. You'd have to use a shim that is wider than what you want (say .003") for a bit then once you remove the tines open up a bit. I do find the bock nibs are pretty darn strong and can be tough to open up just using your hands. See if you can find a video or post about that technique to see if it helps
@@Doodlebud alright thanks much. I’ll try that. Yeah I suppose my best bet is to keep watching vods and see what do. And then if that doesn’t work my only hope then will be to find a nib meister. That I worry will be unaffordable. One more thing, if you don’t mind. Is their such a thing as a nib that juts can’t be reshaped? As in, the metal is so set in its shape, that it just cannot or will not take the reshape we are attempting? I know it’s about the stresses on the metal on any given point. I just can’t cannot understand how I worked in that nib for an hour at least, and it would not shift. Okay, off I go to learn more! Always a pleasure speaking with you, @Doodelbud Cheers
I sent my mid-80s 149 back for a service in Melbourne and they said 'no' as they don't keep spare parts for pens that old. It was working fine, but I thought it would be more likely to last another 40 years if I had it serviced.
Speaking of a wobbly piston knob, I have two Narwhals and both have wobbly knots when you turn them to loosen them. They have been that way since I purchased them. I never liked that they did that. Idk if this is normal for Narwhal piston fillers or if I got two lemons. And they are sloppy. Not just a little loose. I mean they literally turn about - quarter turn in either direction when I turn them to open the piston up to fill. I don’t know if there is anything that can be done to fix this issue. But every time I fill them I feel disappointed and feel like I got broken pens. And I’m concerned that this issue is just on the edge of it breaking right off or something. If you have any idea about this or if anyone has this same issue with any Narwhals or any piston fillers, please let me know. Cheers
I haven't moved the piston on the Narwhal for a bit so can't remember. There is some play in the screw/nut mechanism in all piston filler pens. But sometimes there seems to be ones that have more than others. Not really too much you can do to reduce it. It shouldn't break at all, but just don't turn it fast until it engages and moves. If you spin it quick then it engages the threads it could cause a bit more strain on the threads and potentially reduce lifetime.
@@Doodlebud okay. That’s good to know that it’s something that seems to be more common than I thought. And I definitely am very careful with those two pens because I don’t want to make anything worse or snap and break. Thanks much. Cheers
Just to let u know: this pen is surely NOT manufactured in the 80s. The W Germany on the cap band of ur 149 stands for West Germany,and West and East Germany were reunited in 1990, so the 146 in this vid was definitely manufactured well into the 1990s.
Didn't need to remove either as they were in good working condition. There is always the risk of damaging something that isn't broken when you take it apart. Only fixed what needed fixing in this one
Unfortunately, I think you overdid it. You didn't really need to sand the entire surface. Just using the polish cloth over and over would have done the trick. Also, you've over-sanded the tip as it's no longer and EF but an F. If you look at the before and after shots of your writing samples, you can clearly see that you've changed the width of the nib.
Forget the snake. Very detailed restoration work . Truly a labour of love.
Hoping it will bring many more years of enjoyment
Touching nibs like that at work could lead to a harassment accusation. You did a great job with that 146. Your attention to details is amazing.
The way the ink swapped...... 😳
🤣😆
What a lovely video! I hope the pen's former owner gets to see this video because I'm certain he would be moved by the care you took in bringing this pen back to top condition.
I'm happy with how it turned out to & hope he was too
Yes, older MBs have that kind of nib. 149s specially. The 149 EF I got from 70s is full on Architect. Also an EEF that is super sharp and super scratchy. But not misaligned. They are good. This one is probably mid to late 80s. Earlier [70s] ones have different feeds. Newer feeds are garbage [fins are so fragile] ! Piston knob play is normal. I wish you greased the piston 😀.
For the most part the 146 had the same feed (split ebonite) from its 1970s reintroduction until the advent of the ugly plastic feed in the 90s. The exception is a few very early pens that had solid ebonite feeds, but I have yet to see one come up for sale in the past few months, while I have seen dozens of early 70s pens with the early 14C nib--sharp tip of the border line instead of the little rounded shape that they used on all the following nibs.
I have a 146, my girlfriend of that time bought it for me for Christmas. I have the instruction leaflet, it has a date page on the inside cover, it’s dated 23/12/88. It has the 2 tone nib, brass piston threads, W.Germany on the clip, and the ink window with the vertical black lines through it. Medium nib. I haven’t used it much so it’s in really nice condition. I have just spend a few hours flushing it with water to clean it out, as it’s not been used for 25 years. I hadn’t realised how iconic the pen is, I am very lucky.
That pen holder has some incredible details, the only concern I have is potentially scratching the cap or barrel.
Great video ! Thanks much.
Great sanding and polish job on that
I just bought this exact pen. Also has "Germany" on the band (without the W), split ebonite feed, gray ink window, brass parts. Thanks for giving a tutorial on cleaning it up. Now I need to decide if I've got the confidence to repair micro-scratches on the cap myself
Just for the art without holding a pen, the holder is worth having.
Thanks for sharing it.
✌️🦁
What a labor of love. Well done. Better you than I.
I love watching pens get restored! But that rattlesnake is getting me rattled every time I see it.....its so fucking beautiful. Haha if he makes more kinds of snake pen holders...I WANT THEM ALL!!
It's pretty damn cool 😎
Great job restoring the pen!!
There is a great deal to learn n this video !!
11:04 THANK YOU for pronouncing "Mont Blanc" correctly!
Nicely done, you restored her beauty.
😀
Thank you for teaching us how to do this. That nib design looked art deco and really clever. It seems to allow for more writing angles! As always, very cool video!!!
I just picked up a used 149 this week. It doesn’t look like it needs much restoration, but I’ll be sure to put it in the ultrasound cleaner before I ink it up.
Nice find!
Job reall well done and a great video as a result. Done everything necessary and nothing that wasn't needed and got the pen up and running.
No sense taking things apart that are working properly & risk cause a problem
My 146 along with my Pelikan 800 are my two smoothest writing pens.
i would say your pen comes from the 80's, but no later than late 80's as they were transitioning to two tone nibs then.
Were the nibs sparring or just trading fluids? Either way it’s going to lead to a heavier HR file.
So satisfying to watch the shine come back!! Well done.
One thing I learned is that some caps still said W. Germany even into the early ‘90s despite the reunification in 1990. MB is special.
Yeah I think there was transition period with some of the pens and parts they had around that time
Dear Doodlebug:
2 things, masking tape is much better for covering, leaves no glue, easy to remove.
Also, I have found the micro mesh pads to be the best way to polish. Flexes around the pen.
Hey Doodle Buddy, keep it up man. I really enjoy your content. That rattle snake holder is a dream!
Thanks for showing us
13:33
The gap you’re talking about in this timing it’s because the iridium tip is soldered by laser and then a very thin saw cuts surface until the hole. This is after the nib has been molded.
When that cut is done, both wings of the nib spreads to right and left respectively. Once it’s mounted to the final pen, an artisan adjust it with a very fine plyers without scratching the surface. I think that these tools are made of stainless steel.
In this adjustment process it’s possible that both iridium half tips can be moved up and down, right to left and viceversa, and maybe needs some oblique movement. I thing that the gap you’re referring to, it’s caused by last movement said.
13:19 I have a vintage Parker 51 with a tip like that, it's broader when the angle is flatter. I am not sure if it's factory or if that was made by somebody, no idea where the pen exactly come from beside being bought from a shop in Serbia
Excellent demonstration on how to revive a wonderful pen. One day I will acquire a 146. It is certainly worth the time and effort to make this pen a glorious pen.
Thank you again.
Great video. Enjoyed every second of it. You did a great job. Thank you for sharing. 😀👏🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching ;)
The extended "blade" or "chisel" shape to the tipping is an old Montblanc characteristic--another tell of the stock grind is the flattened circle on the top side of the tipping. It is ground this way to keep the nib writing smooth even when the pen is held at angles close to perpendicular. Have you been able to get a smooth nib without touching the inner tine walls? In my experience, rubbing away on micromesh does more damage than good because it re-squares the inner tines, making them cut into the paper. It only works well if the original grind is a little too generous on the inner tines and not flat enough on the writing surface.
Ironically, it helps a lot to gently take the edge off the top side of the nib, 7000 grit sandpaper with the pen held feed-side up in writing position, then gently rolled against the abrasive, edges first. A few very gentle swipes may be all that's needed.
Brilliant restoration!
Das a hawt pen 🎉 good on you for helping!!!
Great video, DB! I was wondering if you were gonna remove the nib section, pull the nib, & remove the piston. That takes a couple of specialty wrenches, or a couple of paper clips if you’re very brave. But looks like you cleaned the pen very effectively without disassembly. BTW, my 146 has a bit of play in the piston knob as well. Thanks for all the great content!
Wanted to see how it was after cleaning first. Turns out the pen was in great condition & didn't need much work
13:56 “Should I touch em’?”
😂
Oh, Doodlebud!
Just the tip.
😂
I’m dyin’!
Amazing video! One of my fav fountain channels 😁
Thanks glad you enjoy it!
I have that exact pen from 1989.
That's cool 👍
Excellent job. You did not have to completely disassemble the pen so you did only what was necessary since the cleaned piston worked fine. That’s what excellent restoration is all about. If it isn’t broke don’t fix it 😊. That ink widow puts that model in the mid-eighties I think. Not 100% sure. Thanks!👍👍👍
PS: did the piston seem lubed enough to work really smoothly? Just wondering.
Piston seemed much smooth & more fluid after the cleaning. Didn't want to take things apart that were in good condition. Can have a risk of breaking something that wasn't broken. Like you said, only need to fix what needs fixing. If she has issues with the piston at some point I'll take it apart further. Writes wonderfully now & no skipping whatsoever. That nib point was very unique, never seen that before
As soon as someone wills me a Montblanc 146 or 149, I'm sending it to you for fettling, DB! 😆
The question is..... will I send it back 🤔
I always love those vintage monotone nibs. If I had to guess, I'd say the pen is from anywhere between the mid 70's to the late 80's, since that's when they had monotone nibs for that model.
There were some changes late 70s early 80s with respect to the ink window color & piston mechanism material. This one is onces those changes came in so mid 80s somewhere
Doesn’t the W Germany stand for West Germany on these? So this one should be from after november 89 then, when there was no west germany anymore following the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end of the DDR (east germany)?
Hi great video as usual. Most interesting. About to acquire a 1970’s MB149 so extra fascinating for me. Fingers X’d mine will be a good one.
Hope it turns out to be a good one 👍
Looks awesome, man. Good job. 👍
Glad its working well now and hope she enjoys using her dad's pen
I have an older 146 that the clip rotates around the barrel, I want to correct this before the barrel is scratched. Thank you in advance.
You touched the tips
Touching tips???!!!???😂😂😂
I mean nibs….
😂
Super awesome video! Pen looks wonderful!! Can I send you my 80’s 149????
(Let me know where to direct myself if that’s an option😆)
Unfortunately I only do my own pens. If you google around you'll find someone you can send your pen to have it done
@@Doodlebud I kinda knew that. 😆 just thought it would be cool to have you do it. 😁
Have a great day!!!!
The label "West-Germany" must have been in any case before 1989 (Germany's reunification). Nice work and funny video! 🙂
Clip rings with W. Germany on them were used as late as 1991, as they used up old parts rather than throwing them away.
Germany reunification was competed on 3 October 1990.
The Berlin Wall fell in November of 1989 and East and West Germany United some time after that. The pens were marked W-Germany before they were united and just Germany after that. So I'd say it's in the early 1990s. It looks very much like the 146 I got back then too. I have a 120(? also called Classique) which is the smallest/thinnest of the Meisterstück line and a cartridge/converter pen that is marked W-Germany and which I got in the early 1980s. Hmm... I guess that means I'm OLD!
Suggestion for the cheapest tool to take out piston without damaging? I don't think I need to take the nib out, though it does have quite the patina on it that I'd like to restore to its original brightness if possible.
The cheapest tool is bending a paperclip and then squishing it the piston knob and then turning to remove the piston. I don't know if I would do that method as there is a risk of having a pressure point where the knob meets the paperclip, but a doesn't get much cheaper than a paperclip!
@@Doodlebud Love the improvisation. I’d also consider machining it if I had a mill handy. However given the value and the fact that it was a gift I’d like to use something designed for it. Did you mention there was another purpose built tool that fits the 146 that’s available for purchase somewhere?
Also your suggestion for getting the nib bright and shiny with minimal risk & effort would be welcome. I don’t have an ultrasonic bath yet but this could be the use case that leads me to get one if there’s a decent chance it’ll work.
Really nice video of a very iconic pen. I will always be wondering when I will get one just like this (1980's era?). Also, loved the work on the nib!
W. Germany is West Germany so the Parts from France England and US 1989 was the " Mauerfall" people from East Germany had enough so even tho the guards had to shoot they dropt the wall after that West and East Reunited in the end of 1990 so i would assume the Pen without the W is made after 1990
Its the Same with German tools in most Workshops you will find some old Tools marked "Made in W. Germany"
Any chance you can share the names of the products you used for sanding/polishing? Links would be even better!
Here's a link to my Amazon store. Have all the stuff on there
www.amazon.ca/shop/doodlebud
Did you want to know why the back of the nib was flat? From what I have read, it is decorative. I searched and searched to find the reason for it, and that's all I could find. Surprized you haven't seen that before, because Montblancs and Pelikans have their nibs cut like that. Check your MB 149, Lamy Dialog and M800. My MBs, Lamys, and Pelikans have it, in addition to Sailor. On my OMAS so do, and some don't, but I like it.
Hmmm, I didn't have that type of grind on my MB or Pelikan but maybe that has to do with nib point size? Same with my Lamy medium gold nib, has a standard shape as well. Guess all we can say is there is some variety of tipping shapes out there!
@@Doodlebud Hmmmm, maybe EFs and Fs don't have it because it is a smaller tip? You could be onto something, but surprized the Lamy medium didn't have it. I just checked my 146 with a F nib, and it has the flat back grind. Maybe it depends on when it was made. I just looked up a video I watched a day ago about a MB145 with a fine nib, and it also has that grind. Curious now, I'm going to rewatch your M800 and 149 just to see it. Fascinating.
@@Doodlebud Yeah, you're 149 and M800 don't have it. I think EFs won't.
Hi there - do you offer a service that restores 146/149’s or tunes the nib? I loved how you restored this 146 to its full glory. Thank you
Unfortunately I don't do a service like that. If you search around you can probably find those who do. I do the videos to act as a reference for others who want to give it a try
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considering from the time this pen was made in I recon that w-germany stands for West Germany. Quite a lot of things here do have something similar to that. One of my Vintage lighters says made in west germany.
Polish it up, then rest it on a rough textured metal stand 🥴 I'm sure it was fine, but it just reminded me of polishing a car and having the customer come over and run their finger down the side of the car to say how nice it is and all i can see is a big scratch all the way down the newly polished car simply from their finger
I have that exact pen. The ink leaks on what I believe is the trim ring where it leave ink on the left side of my middle finger (right handed). How would I go about fixing that?
So tough to say without seeing the pen. There are people out there that can repair the pen and even Montblanc might do it as well
maybe that's a naginata togi longknife nib? I think they were developed by Sailor to be like a sideways architect nib.
I have a question. I recently purchased a couple of Jinhao X159 with the #8 nibs. And I got one in Maroon or burgundy. Whatever they are calling it. But when I got mine it looks brown. Also it looks flat and lacks luster. I question if it’s possessed that I got a knockoff of an already cheaper pen? Because I saw Inkquiringminds Jinhao x159 and it looks beautiful. It’s actually a deep beautiful red and has depth and is shiny. Mine is everything opposite and am very dissatisfied. Now I’m considering purchase another one from someone else in the hopes I just got a knockoff the first time around. But what product can I use to shine this up? Do I literally do exactly what you just did in this video? Idk what this thing is actually made of. So I don’t know if it would take to sanding and everything. But what simple and easy way can I try to take out the scratches and maybe give this some depth of color and shine without spending tons of money? Also is it the creams you are putting on along with the cloth you used that shines it up and removes the fine scratches? Maybe it’s because I haven’t slept all night that nothing is entering my brain and understanding what is explained in your video. Sorry for the rambling. Any help would be much appreciated.
@Doodlebud
I got the pen almost scratch free from the sanding and polish system I showed. The final "smoothing" can from using that polishing cloth (which has stuff impregnated within), then the final polishing with the conservators wax. Its a slow process but can turn out nicely. I imagine that the X159 is abs plastic but not sure. This is the method I used but it seems every person who restores pens have their own favorite system/method. So guess its watcha few vids, see how they do it, and then see if the stuff they use is easily available to you.
@@Doodlebud sounds good. Okay thanks much. That helps. And since it didn’t cost much at all I suppose I can go for it once I find a system I like. I guess I didn’t want to spend money on stuff that I won’t really have much use for unless I decide to Polish all my pens. Which I suppose I would do if I buy all the stuff to do it. Also I have a jewelry (grey color) polishing cloth that is impregnated as well. Maybe this is the same cloth as you have. Or similar. Thanks again. You’re a great help. I love you videos and everything you show us. One day if I get the chance to get an amazing MB pen or a Classic Pens I would like to know what I’m doing by then. Cheers
Do you do pen restorations as a side gig? I have a Parker Duofold Junior that I found at an antique store that needs restoration.
Sorry I just do restorations for my own pens. I did a video on a vintage one for reference
ua-cam.com/video/vsFL6Qgy-gQ/v-deo.html
@@Doodlebud No worries, I might try it myself after I watch a few more videos. Enjoying your channel!
So W Germany stands for West Germany. East and west unification was Oct 1990 so this pen would have been produced prior to that.
Hey, Mr. Bud. I have a Montblanc Classique 6-10 years old. The cap is chipped around the opening. About 3/8" long and less than 1/8" up from the rim. Can you repair / replace? I'll check your home page to see if I can find other contact information.
Hey there, unfortunately I don't do repairs on pens other than my own. If google search for fountain pen repairs Im sure you'll find someone that can help you out.
G'day, Doodlemate. Thanks for a really enjoyable post. The pen holder is quite impressive.
Some say Renaissance Wax is bad for pens--what has been your experience?
All the best from Dead Wombat Creek.
I haven't had any issues with renaissance but I'm no authority. Grandmia Pens seems to have enjoy it & he does countless pens
How's and what is the finish of the pen holder/pen rest? Won't it scratch the pens?
Unless you press down on the pen and deliberately rub it around on the holder I don't think you'll get any scratches. I tried many pens and had no issues
I didn’t realise I can use FPs in my sonic cleaner, can i use any pen? I am a little concerned it’ll get spoiled
You have to watch out for some materials. Most modern pens are no problem, but celluloid is a no go
So beautiful That Visconti Homo Sapiens... Makes me think!!! BaDaBamm
Now that nib is perfect I use it non stop
I like European fountain pens like the Mont Blanc but Ican't use their 0.7 mm nibs. Does Mont Blanc make pens with less than 0.7mm nibs ??
I thought they have nib points finer than 0.7mm
10:58 I was wondering how you know what shim to use on each nib? I have seen you use .0015 before. This time 0.04mm. Wait is that the same? Idk. Lol. If it’s not, how do you know what she size to use? Cheers
@Doodlebud
Yup, its the same. 0.0015" (multiply by 25.4 mm/inch) = 0.038mm. I rounded to 0.04mm just for reference. Its the ballpark number I look for with a nib. They can work just fine with a closer gap, but just depends on the pen. I try to find the gap that makes the pen perform its best
@@Doodlebud I had a feeling I was being an idiot the minute I wrote that too. Lol. Okay that’s.
I did have a question. I’ve watched many a vod, including a few of yours, about how to separate the tips of the tines when they are so tight at the tip they keep crossing. I have 3 nibs that so this bad. 2 Bocks and a in house The Good Blue nib. I have done the trios of pulling them apart and holding. Over and over again. I cannot get the tip of the tines to budge at alla the Bocks are just so thick and stiff I’m having no luck. And the Good Blue is a flex nib. All the way through the distance is really good. But the tip, just flip over no matter what I do. I was wondering if there is some other magically feat I can do to fix this mahout issue for me? Any info will be much appreciated. Cheers
I've heard people slipping in the shims (brass or feeler gauges) and leaving them in there for 10min or so to help open up the nib a bit. You'd have to use a shim that is wider than what you want (say .003") for a bit then once you remove the tines open up a bit. I do find the bock nibs are pretty darn strong and can be tough to open up just using your hands. See if you can find a video or post about that technique to see if it helps
@@Doodlebud alright thanks much. I’ll try that. Yeah I suppose my best bet is to keep watching vods and see what do. And then if that doesn’t work my only hope then will be to find a nib meister. That I worry will be unaffordable.
One more thing, if you don’t mind. Is their such a thing as a nib that juts can’t be reshaped? As in, the metal is so set in its shape, that it just cannot or will not take the reshape we are attempting? I know it’s about the stresses on the metal on any given point. I just can’t cannot understand how I worked in that nib for an hour at least, and it would not shift.
Okay, off I go to learn more!
Always a pleasure speaking with you, @Doodelbud
Cheers
Do you have an affiliate link to the ultrasonic cleaner you use?
Nvm found it in your Amazon store!
Oh good glad I listed it. Thanks for use my links 😁
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Just send it back to Montblanc for servicing.
I sent my mid-80s 149 back for a service in Melbourne and they said 'no' as they don't keep spare parts for pens that old. It was working fine, but I thought it would be more likely to last another 40 years if I had it serviced.
Speaking of a wobbly piston knob, I have two Narwhals and both have wobbly knots when you turn them to loosen them. They have been that way since I purchased them. I never liked that they did that. Idk if this is normal for Narwhal piston fillers or if I got two lemons. And they are sloppy. Not just a little loose. I mean they literally turn about - quarter turn in either direction when I turn them to open the piston up to fill. I don’t know if there is anything that can be done to fix this issue. But every time I fill them I feel disappointed and feel like I got broken pens. And I’m concerned that this issue is just on the edge of it breaking right off or something. If you have any idea about this or if anyone has this same issue with any Narwhals or any piston fillers, please let me know. Cheers
I haven't moved the piston on the Narwhal for a bit so can't remember. There is some play in the screw/nut mechanism in all piston filler pens. But sometimes there seems to be ones that have more than others. Not really too much you can do to reduce it. It shouldn't break at all, but just don't turn it fast until it engages and moves. If you spin it quick then it engages the threads it could cause a bit more strain on the threads and potentially reduce lifetime.
@@Doodlebud okay. That’s good to know that it’s something that seems to be more common than I thought. And I definitely am very careful with those two pens because I don’t want to make anything worse or snap and break. Thanks much. Cheers
Just to let u know: this pen is surely NOT manufactured in the 80s. The W Germany on the cap band of ur 149 stands for West Germany,and West and East Germany were reunited in 1990, so the 146 in this vid was definitely manufactured well into the 1990s.
correction:since montblanc started transitioning to two-tone nibs from 1990, I'd say this 146 was manufactured in 1990 or 1991, no later than 1991.
thats def a 1985-1987 in my opinion, Ive got a 1970 149 and a 1985 149.
Yeah I was thinking around the '85 mark as well
Germany only should be 90’s, w germany should mean west germany and the pen could be mid 80’s as you said
Not much restoration going on in this video. You didn't dismantle the section or the piston.
Didn't need to remove either as they were in good working condition. There is always the risk of damaging something that isn't broken when you take it apart. Only fixed what needed fixing in this one
That pen holder is a nice tool to scratch your pen.
NSFW 🤣
Unfortunately, I think you overdid it. You didn't really need to sand the entire surface. Just using the polish cloth over and over would have done the trick. Also, you've over-sanded the tip as it's no longer and EF but an F. If you look at the before and after shots of your writing samples, you can clearly see that you've changed the width of the nib.
Please ban me I don’t want your videos coming up in my search any more