I read on a forum that the temp difference from the inside of a carboy to the outside the temp difference was only about 2F so they recommend just taping the sensor to the side. I use a neoprene cooler strapped to the glass carboy with the temp probe held against the side and insulated to fridge air by the cooler.
thanks for such an excellent video. I am curious as to why you say to swap the wet towels out every 12 hours? is it because they dry out or because the will go mouldy? having a little weed sprayer with a pump, combined with some cool water from the fridge that has been diluted with phosphoric acid would eliminate both these problems, wouldn't it? as to the oxygenation, there is a company called DeVibliss who make oxygen generators for people with lung diseases. these machines can be sourced second hand and would make an excellent addition to any serious homebrewers collection. im glad I found this channel.thanks Brad for your contributions to this amazing hobby. cheers n 17.
It was mentioned that racking into a secondary fermenter would be transferring your beer (or wort) into an oxygen environment. Would it be a good idea to fill the secondary with CO2 prior to the transfer.
Be careful using thermowells. I tried one and found that the freezer would run way to long trying to cool the fermenter and it would almost freeze beer that was dryhopping or aging
A bit of inaccurate information in this. Firstly, shaking your carboy actually fully saturates the work with O2 in about 30 seconds. At least, it saturates it as much as is possible using regular air. Using an aquarium pump and waiting hours is a waste of time, unless you're prepared to go the pure O2 route. Also, Chris mentions that you can't cold crash beer if you're bottling. Nonsense. Cold crashing certainly removes some of the yeast, but it removes nowhere near enough yeast to prevent bottle carbonation. Lastly, the research indicates that leaving your beer in the carboy with all of the yeast and trub for up to about three months is perfectly fine. The idea that you need a secondary for normal beers comes from the days where everybody was using the packet of dried yeast taped to the side of their can of extract. The yeast was incredibly unhealthy and autolysis was a risk. However now that we're making starters and using well stored dried yeast, there's no problem leaving beers for a few months in primary.
i DONT DO SECONDAYRY FERMENTS., I do 6days...then bottle condition.........they carb in 5 to 6 days....... ( Ive cleared batches................and lost carb option in bottle primin..............) Thats just me.............My Brew room has more temp. control than my house.. CHEERS
Very articulate, able to explain in clear English, minimum jargon
WOW
I gained soooo much Info 2nite !!!
BIGG Thanx & Much Respect Chris !!!
Thanx Brad !!!
CHEERS GUYS !!!
I read on a forum that the temp difference from the inside of a carboy to the outside the temp difference was only about 2F so they recommend just taping the sensor to the side. I use a neoprene cooler strapped to the glass carboy with the temp probe held against the side and insulated to fridge air by the cooler.
Brad thank you for all the Great info.
much Respect
CHEERS !!!
Cold crashed my Ale and than bottle conditionned many times with excellent results... I don't think he bottles often
thanks for such an excellent video. I am curious as to why you say to swap the wet towels out every 12 hours? is it because they dry out or because the will go mouldy?
having a little weed sprayer with a pump, combined with some cool water from the fridge that has been diluted with phosphoric acid would eliminate both these problems, wouldn't it?
as to the oxygenation, there is a company called DeVibliss who make oxygen generators for people with lung diseases. these machines can be sourced second hand and would make an excellent addition to any serious homebrewers collection.
im glad I found this channel.thanks Brad for your contributions to this amazing hobby. cheers n 17.
Its because the towels often dry out after about 12 hours (depending on how dry your climate is).
It was mentioned that racking into a secondary fermenter would be transferring your beer (or wort) into an oxygen environment. Would it be a good idea to fill the secondary with CO2 prior to the transfer.
good stuff mate :-) from a kiwi brewer
Be careful using thermowells. I tried one and found that the freezer would run way to long trying to cool the fermenter and it would almost freeze beer that was dryhopping or aging
A bit of inaccurate information in this.
Firstly, shaking your carboy actually fully saturates the work with O2 in about 30 seconds. At least, it saturates it as much as is possible using regular air. Using an aquarium pump and waiting hours is a waste of time, unless you're prepared to go the pure O2 route.
Also, Chris mentions that you can't cold crash beer if you're bottling. Nonsense. Cold crashing certainly removes some of the yeast, but it removes nowhere near enough yeast to prevent bottle carbonation.
Lastly, the research indicates that leaving your beer in the carboy with all of the yeast and trub for up to about three months is perfectly fine. The idea that you need a secondary for normal beers comes from the days where everybody was using the packet of dried yeast taped to the side of their can of extract. The yeast was incredibly unhealthy and autolysis was a risk. However now that we're making starters and using well stored dried yeast, there's no problem leaving beers for a few months in primary.
People mean "secondary fermenter" not "secondary fermentation" even if they don't correctly express it that way.
i DONT DO SECONDAYRY FERMENTS.,
I do 6days...then bottle condition.........they carb in 5 to 6 days.......
( Ive cleared batches................and lost carb option in bottle primin..............)
Thats just me.............My Brew room has more temp. control than my house..
CHEERS