Well, I will driving it on the harder stuff, but since it will be small, I would like the kids to try and get some seat time on the easier trails. I want to make a quick release seat, that can move forward for the kids, or back for me in the drivers seat.
Basically, I measured from the middle of the carrier, thats the only true way to have the shafts the same length. I stuck a 14 bolt shaft in it to get an accurate measurement. I used tape on the shaft to reference the length from the carrier. I had to figure out what wheel mounting surface I needed. The inner c and knuckle for the super duties were almost 1 feet exactly from the mounting surface to the weld point on the tube, so that made it easy to measure. Once I knew my wheel mounting surface, and the length of the inner C. I had to cut the tubes one more time, using the tape reference I had on the 14 bolt shaft. Because the the diff Is offset, one tube is shorter than the other. By using the old shaft as a reference point, it really helped me know where exactly to cut. Hope that helps....
I am looking the Crane seals, according to their website, you unscrew the spanners inside the axle housing, and install the seal. So it should not require any modification. Busted Knuckle also sells seals, but they may not work on mine, as they appear to slide in the tube, and I used a sleeve that may block the seal from sliding in the tube.
I will be covering the axle shafts in future videos, but my plans are to get custom made shafts from Brannik. 30 Spline inner shafts, and 35 spline for outer shafts. Since these wheel bearings typically come bored out for 30 spline, I order them from Brannick drilled out for 35 spline. Hope that answers your question?
How much wms to wms width can you gain by doing this? I got a 67" 1st gen GM 10.5 and am planing to do the rear steering conversion but my front axle is 72" (Super duty Dana 60)
On the super duty 99-04 it was about 1 foot from the wheel mounting surface, to the weld surface of the inner c, so you can pretty much make it as wide as you want, as long as you have enough tube on the axle housing.
Thanks! I had to double check, but it is 65.5 WMS, the same as I made the D60. I just realized I never mentioned that, and will add it to the follow up 14 bolt video.
Been following the whole build, great work explaining the process and commentary.
I appreciate the feedback, and for following along!
Great video...I've got a 14 bolt in my shop and have been thinking of doing this. Appreciate the detail of your build!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I will be making another one in the near future finishing up a few more things on it!
Dam. The kids are getting spoiled having their first rig be a rear steer!
Well, I will driving it on the harder stuff, but since it will be small, I would like the kids to try and get some seat time on the easier trails. I want to make a quick release seat, that can move forward for the kids, or back for me in the drivers seat.
Very intense, great work.
Thanks, I appreciate that!
Dude I really like your videos man. I hope you keep it up. I am in Oregon and working on my 14 bolt as well.
Thanks I appreciate it, I am going to keep chipping away at this thing, no matter how long it takes!
Instead of splicing the axle at the outer edge could you have done at the differential housing? Thanks for the video
Yes, you can splice it anywhere you like, especially with a truss supporting it.
Looks good mate. 👍
Thanks, I appreciate that, and thanks again for letting me use that alignment bar, it has been very helpful!!
Can you explain how you determined the axle length? And how you came up with equal length shafts? Thanks
Basically, I measured from the middle of the carrier, thats the only true way to have the shafts the same length. I stuck a 14 bolt shaft in it to get an accurate measurement. I used tape on the shaft to reference the length from the carrier. I had to figure out what wheel mounting surface I needed. The inner c and knuckle for the super duties were almost 1 feet exactly from the mounting surface to the weld point on the tube, so that made it easy to measure. Once I knew my wheel mounting surface, and the length of the inner C. I had to cut the tubes one more time, using the tape reference I had on the 14 bolt shaft. Because the the diff Is offset, one tube is shorter than the other. By using the old shaft as a reference point, it really helped me know where exactly to cut. Hope that helps....
Hi very good video this is what I would like to do for my buggy I wish I had help doing a set for mine any way real good I like it.
Thanks, I appreciate the comment!
What did you do for inner axle seals? Are you able to install seals into the tube without modification? D60 seals???
I am looking the Crane seals, according to their website, you unscrew the spanners inside the axle housing, and install the seal. So it should not require any modification. Busted Knuckle also sells seals, but they may not work on mine, as they appear to slide in the tube, and I used a sleeve that may block the seal from sliding in the tube.
Can u explain little more how u get the axles to fit both end ?
I will be covering the axle shafts in future videos, but my plans are to get custom made shafts from Brannik. 30 Spline inner shafts, and 35 spline for outer shafts. Since these wheel bearings typically come bored out for 30 spline, I order them from Brannick drilled out for 35 spline. Hope that answers your question?
@@wheelinoutwest Thanks
did the alignment bar come out after this cooled?
Yes, I pulled the bearing straight off, then pulled the bar out. It did get a little tighter with all the welding.
How much wms to wms width can you gain by doing this? I got a 67" 1st gen GM 10.5 and am planing to do the rear steering conversion but my front axle is 72" (Super duty Dana 60)
On the super duty 99-04 it was about 1 foot from the wheel mounting surface, to the weld surface of the inner c, so you can pretty much make it as wide as you want, as long as you have enough tube on the axle housing.
What are you gonna do for axel shafts?
I am going to order all the shafts from brannick, 35 spline, chromoly.
Ok, I was curious. Thanks
What was the final wms to wms measurement for this axle?
It was around 67 inch wheel mounting surface.
@@wheelinoutwest thanks for the reply! I’m thinking of doing this as well to my rear 14 bolt..but using kingpin knuckles.
What's the WMS going to be? Nice work Rob!
Thanks! I had to double check, but it is 65.5 WMS, the same as I made the D60. I just realized I never mentioned that, and will add it to the follow up 14 bolt video.
I would want to consult you for guidance on my 4 wheel drive project
What kind of project you working on?
Around What Year model Dana 60 did you get?
99-04 ford 60, I used those outers all the way around. The 05 and up are a better option.
@@wheelinoutwest where did you get your alignment bar?
@@89297a I borrowed it from a friend, I think can order than from summit racing.
@@wheelinoutwest where did you get your axle shafts from and what u-joint did you use in knuckles
@ I bought the shafts from brannick, I used brannick 300 m u joints. It has all held up good.
Hi they call this axle a 14 bolt because of the 14 cover bolts?
That’s correct!