I really like the idea of portable forges! One way to improve the valves would be, to thin down the rubber, that way it lets air through easier and also gets slightly sucked into the holes making a tighter seal. a fast way to grind rubber down is by using 40# metal working sandpaper or lower.
Just wondering would this firepot design work with the air supply coming in from the side instead of the bottom? I would like to use it with my fuigo/japanese box bellows but i want the air coming from the side.
I know this is an older video, and I have never used a forge or a bellows before. Therefore take any suggestions with a huge grain of salt. You mentioned the rubber floor mat. My guess is that is it too stiff to seal back over the holes in the “closed” position, thus allowing the air leakage. What about tool box drawer liner? It is inexpensive and readily available. One roll from a store like harbor freight would make a ton of the valves and they also sell canvas tarps. Two birds, one stone. Just an idea from a guy who knows nothing………..
I chose the rubber mat because it stays flexible at any temperature. It worked ok but it was too thick. The drawer liner is thinner but it isn't flexible enough. Also it will stay kinked if folded for a long time. I eventually replaced them with leather from a standard split cowhide shop apron. That worked great. I also treated the canvas with a spay on waterproofing just in case the tarp wasn't 100% watertight.
The main reason is that it locks your position in front of the forge so its hard to work the bellows if you have a longer piece in the fire. It would have been better with a wider pedal so I could move around. Also I just prefer to have both feet on the ground.
DF - In The Shop ok.. I like the idea of the smaller round ones in the beginning of the video. It seems like it would make a great traveling forge that you could build to be able to tear down and pack. I can no longer use coal in my shop but great for demos.
Is there any particular reason why you decided to go with Bellows as opposed to a cheap $15 fart fan and a dimmer switch for your blower? The bellows definitely have the old school cool factor but personally for my forge I didn't want to mess with a hand crank or something similar. BTW I think all of your videos are very well done and informative, I have learned a whole lot watching them. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
I think bellows are the perfect air supply for a forge. They were replaced because newer technology was more compact, less maintenance and far cheeper to build not because it was better.
They last quite a while ( for general forging) if you are using a hand cranked blower or bellows. The intermittent heat prevents the sides of the pot from reaching a red heat.
Hi Denis Would these bellows be able to get to firewelding temperature? I would be making mine 500mm (19.68") round and wouldn't be forging anything over 50mm (2") by 100mm (4"). Many thanks Paddy
I have never tried to forge weld with these forges because they are intended for teaching very basic blacksmthing classes. I have forged some 1/2 square with them and based on that I am sure they could handle more but there is no way they would be able to heat up a 2X4 of metal any higher than a dull red heat.
Make the bellow square with rounded corners. Pretty much same space is taken up but you get more air volume. Good video.
LOVELY design. Simple and works well... perfect.
Thanks for sharing.
I really like the idea of portable forges!
One way to improve the valves would be, to thin down the rubber, that way it lets air through easier and also gets slightly sucked into the holes making a tighter seal.
a fast way to grind rubber down is by using 40# metal working sandpaper or lower.
I really like your design on the forges, nice work!
great work! so simple and effektiv
I like it.
You had a good video where you explained the basic instructions you provide to a striker. Is this still available and can you provide a link?
It is still on UA-cam. It's one of the first videos I posted so you do need to go back awhile. ua-cam.com/video/XPG4VYtIxLQ/v-deo.html.
Just wondering would this firepot design work with the air supply coming in from the side instead of the bottom? I would like to use it with my fuigo/japanese box bellows but i want the air coming from the side.
I know this is an older video, and I have never used a forge or a bellows before. Therefore take any suggestions with a huge grain of salt. You mentioned the rubber floor mat. My guess is that is it too stiff to seal back over the holes in the “closed” position, thus allowing the air leakage. What about tool box drawer liner? It is inexpensive and readily available. One roll from a store like harbor freight would make a ton of the valves and they also sell canvas tarps. Two birds, one stone. Just an idea from a guy who knows nothing………..
I chose the rubber mat because it stays flexible at any temperature. It worked ok but it was too thick. The drawer liner is thinner but it isn't flexible enough. Also it will stay kinked if folded for a long time. I eventually replaced them with leather from a standard split cowhide shop apron. That worked great. I also treated the canvas with a spay on waterproofing just in case the tarp wasn't 100% watertight.
is very nice work
Cool idea.. why did you not like the foot bellows? It seems better to,use the foot instead of the hand?
The main reason is that it locks your position in front of the forge so its hard to work the bellows if you have a longer piece in the fire. It would have been better with a wider pedal so I could move around. Also I just prefer to have both feet on the ground.
DF - In The Shop ok.. I like the idea of the smaller round ones in the beginning of the video. It seems like it would make a great traveling forge that you could build to be able to tear down and pack. I can no longer use coal in my shop but great for demos.
They are great for that but the tripod base makes them a little tippy on grass. The front leg just needs a bigger base plate.
Is there any particular reason why you decided to go with Bellows as opposed to a cheap $15 fart fan and a dimmer switch for your blower? The bellows definitely have the old school cool factor but personally for my forge I didn't want to mess with a hand crank or something similar. BTW I think all of your videos are very well done and informative, I have learned a whole lot watching them. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
I think bellows are the perfect air supply for a forge. They were replaced because newer technology was more compact, less maintenance and far cheeper to build not because it was better.
What was you approximate cost? Just planning ahead...
In Canadian money the actual materials cost were about $ 250 - 350 for each?
wow nice one! how long 3mm thick plates will last on that forge?
They last quite a while ( for general forging) if you are using a hand cranked blower or bellows. The intermittent heat prevents the sides of the pot from reaching a red heat.
@@df-intheshop330 thanks for the answer most likely i will be using blower
Hi Denis
Would these bellows be able to get to firewelding temperature? I would be making mine 500mm (19.68") round and wouldn't be forging anything over 50mm (2") by 100mm (4").
Many thanks Paddy
I have never tried to forge weld with these forges because they are intended for teaching very basic blacksmthing classes. I have forged some 1/2 square with them and based on that I am sure they could handle more but there is no way they would be able to heat up a 2X4 of metal any higher than a dull red heat.