Hi Matt! I have just binged a ton of your vids and I have to say you have been really helpful and very informative on how each part of the pt works. Now to the fun part. My car is a pt cruiser 2005 2.4liter turbocharge convertible . Which is stalling/possibly misfired. But I have no codes. I am just now changing the spark plugs as I have found out the mechanic I took to used the wrong spark plug and wrong gap size. Plus never changed the gasket seals either. As my left outer spark plug was filled will oil. Had to clean that out and found out they had stripped one of the cylinder. I am buying a rethreader tmr to fix the threads inorder to put the last spark plug in. Also my fog lights stay on 24/7 unless I have my left blinker or high beam on. Also my mechanic staple and used a metal clamp without a screw. Which fused to the hose on the fuel pump. Lastly my convertible hood is no longer automatic as the hydraulic pump supposedly does not work. So I just use it manually. My biggest problem is to keep the car running as it turns on but dies after a few mins. Shake while idling and when rpm pick up the car will jolt and then go back to some what smooth driving.
Matt, you're so calm and knowledgeable. I always enjoy watching your videos even if I don't have that particular problem. I have been struggling with an IAC valve code (P508) all summer as my 2.4L 2005 base model will occasionally start only to rev to ~3000 rpms for a second or two and then sometimes stall or sometimes run rough after that for a bit only to settle down and idle just fine. After replacing the IAC, the TPS, the IAT sensor, the cabin filter, the PVC valve, and even the battery. I did all the back probing, throttle body/IAC removal, cleaning and testing I know how to do. Looked like no bad grounds, no rust etc. It's a California car with no rust and 85K miles. I finally took it to a second mechanic (the first one didn't want to deal with it, which is what precipitated clueless me firing the parts cannon and watching a lot of UA-cam). He said, for one thing, I had a large vaccum leak in my break booster and that I needed a new one and a new master cylinder. That work was finished yesterday as well as a computer check and diagnosis of my two codes (P508 and P2074) and checking the wiring. After $624 and a "clean bill of health" the same problem and codes reared their ugly heads again. No change. I didn't even make it out of the parking lot. The latest thinking after him rechecking everything is that I need to get a new PCM so I ordered one from Florida. It should be here at the end of next week. I'm going to tempt fate and put it in myself.
@@ronny9407 It immediately fixed all the problems that I had as to the way the car ran. Thing is, the new PCM proceeded to display phantom codes for other problems that I did not have. For example, it showed codes for a bad connection to a battery temperature sensor and a bad sensor itself. Trouble is, my particular model of PT never had a battery temperature sensor. It is not a feature on my car. The rebuilt PCM obviously had residual data from the original PT it was taken from and when the computer did not detect a part it expected to see in place it threw the codes. My car continued to have problems with other vestigial codes and PCMs that the company sent to me though there was never any evidence of poor performance with regard to the car after the first rebuilt PCM went in. They had to send me four different PCMs before none of these phantom codes appeared. Sheesh. My car was able to pass the California smog test with flying colors, but it would have failed had the check engine light been on. I'm safe for two years now before I must get tested again. Problem is now that just two weeks ago the check engine light came on on this last formally trouble free PCM with a 2074 code. There is currently no problem I can detect with the car. I cleared the code and I have driven the car a number of times now. The code hasn't come back. I'm willing to bet it's just this PCM acting up like the previous three they sent. I hope this telling of my saga is of some help to you and others😁
Hello Matt. Do you know if an IAC will throw a code if their going bad? I am still getting some vibration after changing top & bottom mounts and alignment along with plugs/wires and coil pack. Even changed both sets of manifold gaskets, discovered the old ones were flat.
Hey Matt I have a question for you I have a customer who has a 2008 PT Cruiser by smaller and she has had the chickens and white come on she had the code scanned and it come back saying that the idle air control valve needed to be replaced I replaced it and the code came back and she went and had it scanned and took the paper to Napa and they told her that they was going to order the part and said that it was a different part than the last part they ordered but when it came in it looks like the same exact thing which is the idle air control valve My question is are there 2 of these valves located on the car somewhere or did they just give her the same part that was just frequently replaced
👍👍👍
Thank you very much. Lots of carbon build up the sensor.
Matt you're our Go-To guy for PT Cruiser everything, thank you!
That's great to hear! I still have tons of PT content planned.
Matt, i enjoyed watching this video and love how thorough
You are!
Thank you! I will have a few more PT videos coming up soon.
Hi Matt! I have just binged a ton of your vids and I have to say you have been really helpful and very informative on how each part of the pt works. Now to the fun part. My car is a pt cruiser 2005 2.4liter turbocharge convertible . Which is stalling/possibly misfired. But I have no codes. I am just now changing the spark plugs as I have found out the mechanic I took to used the wrong spark plug and wrong gap size. Plus never changed the gasket seals either. As my left outer spark plug was filled will oil. Had to clean that out and found out they had stripped one of the cylinder. I am buying a rethreader tmr to fix the threads inorder to put the last spark plug in. Also my fog lights stay on 24/7 unless I have my left blinker or high beam on. Also my mechanic staple and used a metal clamp without a screw. Which fused to the hose on the fuel pump. Lastly my convertible hood is no longer automatic as the hydraulic pump supposedly does not work. So I just use it manually. My biggest problem is to keep the car running as it turns on but dies after a few mins. Shake while idling and when rpm pick up the car will jolt and then go back to some what smooth driving.
Matt, you're so calm and knowledgeable. I always enjoy watching your videos even if I don't have that particular problem.
I have been struggling with an IAC valve code (P508) all summer as my 2.4L 2005 base model will occasionally start only to rev to ~3000 rpms for a second or two and then sometimes stall or sometimes run rough after that for a bit only to settle down and idle just fine. After replacing the IAC, the TPS, the IAT sensor, the cabin filter, the PVC valve, and even the battery. I did all the back probing, throttle body/IAC removal, cleaning and testing I know how to do. Looked like no bad grounds, no rust etc. It's a California car with no rust and 85K miles. I finally took it to a second mechanic (the first one didn't want to deal with it, which is what precipitated clueless me firing the parts cannon and watching a lot of UA-cam). He said, for one thing, I had a large vaccum leak in my break booster and that I needed a new one and a new master cylinder. That work was finished yesterday as well as a computer check and diagnosis of my two codes (P508 and P2074) and checking the wiring. After $624 and a "clean bill of health" the same problem and codes reared their ugly heads again. No change. I didn't even make it out of the parking lot.
The latest thinking after him rechecking everything is that I need to get a new PCM so I ordered one from Florida.
It should be here at the end of next week. I'm going to tempt fate and put it in myself.
Yes sadly the PCMs are striking a lot of these cars down lately. Good luck, I hope it's successful when you replace the PCM.
Did the pcm work? I have the same issue
@@ronny9407 It immediately fixed all the problems that I had as to the way the car ran. Thing is, the new PCM proceeded to display phantom codes for other problems that I did not have. For example, it showed codes for a bad connection to a battery temperature sensor and a bad sensor itself. Trouble is, my particular model of PT never had a battery temperature sensor. It is not a feature on my car. The rebuilt PCM obviously had residual data from the original PT it was taken from and when the computer did not detect a part it expected to see in place it threw the codes. My car continued to have problems with other vestigial codes and PCMs that the company sent to me though there was never any evidence of poor performance with regard to the car after the first rebuilt PCM went in. They had to send me four different PCMs before none of these phantom codes appeared. Sheesh.
My car was able to pass the California smog test with flying colors, but it would have failed had the check engine light been on. I'm safe for two years now before I must get tested again. Problem is now that just two weeks ago the check engine light came on on this last formally trouble free PCM with a 2074 code. There is currently no problem I can detect with the car. I cleared the code and I have driven the car a number of times now. The code hasn't come back. I'm willing to bet it's just this PCM acting up like the previous three they sent.
I hope this telling of my saga is of some help to you and others😁
Thanks for the info man
Taz thanks you!
Hope it runs smoother for you now Mom.
Hello Matt. Do you know if an IAC will throw a code if their going bad? I am still getting some vibration after changing top & bottom mounts and alignment along with plugs/wires and coil pack. Even changed both sets of manifold gaskets, discovered the old ones were flat.
Honestly codes are pretty primitive on these cars, they can be hurting pretty bad before a light will show on the dash.
Im getting a p2074 . Slow accelwration hesitation. I changed the tps and still doing it. What is the most likely problem?
Hey Matt I have a question for you I have a customer who has a 2008 PT Cruiser by smaller and she has had the chickens and white come on she had the code scanned and it come back saying that the idle air control valve needed to be replaced I replaced it and the code came back and she went and had it scanned and took the paper to Napa and they told her that they was going to order the part and said that it was a different part than the last part they ordered but when it came in it looks like the same exact thing which is the idle air control valve My question is are there 2 of these valves located on the car somewhere or did they just give her the same part that was just frequently replaced
There is only one, located on the back of the throttle body.