I'm actually thinking about getting enough drive space to just download all your stuff. Incase something happens to it, I'd always have a copy. I really can't stress how thankful we all are for the great information you have given us over the years.
Thank you for this comment, all that is asked is you share this channel with others and encourage them to subscribe;-) In general the content on the channel is about 1TB based on the back-up data properties.
All good stuff one thing I might add is I bought an earlier spider farmer and it's very hard to dim You need a very small screwdriver I would recommend any led you get has a dimmer Thanks for taking the time to do this video
Great video! Just spent 4 hours surfing the mind boggling, overwhelming internet shopping for LED grow lights, resulting in frustration and indecisiveness, I gave up. Really want to see additional info from your upcoming videos!
I've tried alot of LEDs. Nothing has beat the kind led X models. I.E the X420 and so on. It's the only led where the far reds are on a separate dial. So you can control the full spectrum and deep reds separately
This week there will be a video coming out that talks about converting an HPS to an LED lighting environment and what considerations should be made by the grower, so stay tuned.
@@VAisForGrowers I saw a review by Shane on his Migro channel on the Growealth G series.(recommended) I have 2 with the IR, AND the UV Independent on/off switches. Want more, really are reasonably priced, but sales happen also.
I’ve got three years on spiderfarmer sf-4000. They work great. And they still produce close to as much as they did new. They have run continuous these last three years. As for the hvac switch I was already running hid lights so the change was great on my hvac from lower cooling temps from leds. Plus I was able to eliminate the ducting for hids
@@DeBaccoUniversity when I upgraded I knew how many amps each light I was replacing used. Instead of buying a 1000 watt equivalent led I bought enough lights to run the same amps as hid lights. So if 10 amps for hid I run same amount led. I get the same density as with hid without all the heat. I don’t need a chiller anymore for my dwc setup. The a/c does a good job in regulating temp. So a lot less heat and I get better colors in the plants than with hid. Same amount of power is being used for lights as before but now I use about a third in electric cooling the tent.
@@DeBaccoUniversity I’ve been the last six months experimenting with hanging the leds on the sides of tent for supplemental lighting. The simplicity of led vs a sealed hid light makes thing like this easier to do. I plan on later this year upgrading to a light bar setup like you showed and use these on side of tent to supplement light.
Been running one for almost a year now swapping from cheaper led's, massive difference, and heat control is much easier. Good to know the next few years look good!
When you say plant science is lagging behind the lighting technology, wouldn't the best lighting spectrum recipe just aim to replicate nature? BTW fantastic video's, new subscriber and love the content.
Ah yes.... lights... for years I didn't grow or start indoors, thank you common household lights that I have on anyways, you have saved me a literal fortune. Spectrum bla bla, put your plants near a window too, saves you time if you know what you're doing which isn't hard.
The saying goes "there is no replacement for displacement" in the auto industry, but this can also apply that "intensity leads to density" but growers need to know what the plants can handle.
LED lights do run cooler, but I still cool them the same way I did my HPS lights. Most growers use the common cool dry air coming in at the bottom of the tent and warm moist air out at the top. I push cool dry air in at the top past my lights and the warm moist air out on the other side. It goes in to an external tent that cools, takes the excess moisture out, and adds fresh air from the intake and then pushes that air back in to the tent with the plants. The CO2 from the fresh air falls down over the canopy as it goes past the lights. I figured this out by accident, I was trying to get the climate just right. I had budgeted to replace my lights every year and have not had to replace a single light and all of them have had a range of 10-15% reduction in par ratings. Everyone of my growmies say their lights are dead or putting out half par at the one year mark. This is just my experience, I could be super lucky but I believe it is because my lights run cooler.
The spectrum @ 1min. shows a 300 TO 800 range of influence. My lights have controls to turn on/off below 400 and/or above 700, but the spectrum you have there is way broader - is that much spectrum available so far with the same flexibility? (in led) What advice for using 1, both, or neither outside the 400 - 700 range for seedlings, veg, and flowers. Intensity also? Great stuff, THX
the spectrum shown displays 300nm-800nm but the range of photosynthetically active radiation was defined as 400nm-700nm. Of course , that range has been updated to a new standard of ePAR 400nm-750nm thanks to the amazing Dr Bruce Bugbee. Without going into the reasons why, there is no need to have a 300-800 range fixture.
@@DeBaccoUniversity exactly, we need to see if its cost is beneficial or wank factor for cannabis crops. I wonder what it's affect will be during veg like uv/ir has a strange impact during veg. Im happy to test in Australia 😂 I would love to take your courses! such awesome brains ❤️
Short version: Is it important to calibrate a pH meter at 25c or not? Long version: I apologize for posting a question unrelated to the subject of this video. I have become a bit desperate as I can find no info on the subject of how to calibrate a pH meter in which they talk about temperature during calibration, and I thought a recent video, from a channel I trust, might be the way to get an answer. I must be misunderstanding something, because I do know that pH depends on temperature and my calibration fluids have an actual chart of the changes in pH at different tempuratures, so, to me, this seems like you must calibrate at the recommended temp of 25c, and yet, in dozens of "how to calibrate" videos, this is never mentioned. Can someone point me to a video that explains this? I guess if the answer is "yes, you must calibrate at 25c" it would make sense with my current understanding, but if the answer is "no, you can calibrate at any temperature", I would be confused as to how this is possible.
Room temperature or normal applied water temperature is what you should be calibrating at. While it is possible for temperature to change the pH of water it is typically with-in the tolerances of most people/equipment so this is why it is not mentioned. If you want the details look at... www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/acidbaseeqia/kw.html
i am trying to grow my own first time ever, so im very limited using rockwool to germinate its popped 3/5 seeds in 3 days or less, and used a liquid seaweed mix/water, and in my pots i have some soil from the veg patches :) and i put in miracle grow balls plant food got 10 nutrients in it so im hoping for some results and im looking at a LED light as well for around 60quid
If the Nameplate of an LED lamp says 1800 watts, are the LEDs actually using 1800 Watts? Or a lower %age…like 1800watts = 300 watt LED. On a 20 amp 120v circuit I should be able to use 5 lamps?.?
@@DeBaccoUniversity thanks. Are you suggesting the data tag would be more accurate than the name plate? What’s your experience? Is it "actually" 1000 watts? Or only 250? I understand PAR and lumens. But how to wire?
I'm actually thinking about getting enough drive space to just download all your stuff. Incase something happens to it, I'd always have a copy.
I really can't stress how thankful we all are for the great information you have given us over the years.
Thank you for this comment, all that is asked is you share this channel with others and encourage them to subscribe;-) In general the content on the channel is about 1TB based on the back-up data properties.
It’s all about costs for me. LEDs are cheap to run.period.
Total costs must be taken into consideration especially on large operations.
All good stuff one thing I might add is I bought an earlier spider farmer and it's very hard to dim You need a very small screwdriver I would recommend any led you get has a dimmer
Thanks for taking the time to do this video
You can also dim with distance from the plant to the light, if this is an option.
Great video! Just spent 4 hours surfing the mind boggling, overwhelming internet shopping for LED grow lights, resulting in frustration and indecisiveness, I gave up. Really want to see additional info from your upcoming videos!
Lumatek have some amazing led lights all full spectrum, I was amazed with the results!
@@Jimbob-yp6yi I'm using shop lights 😎
I've tried alot of LEDs. Nothing has beat the kind led X models. I.E the X420 and so on. It's the only led where the far reds are on a separate dial. So you can control the full spectrum and deep reds separately
This week there will be a video coming out that talks about converting an HPS to an LED lighting environment and what considerations should be made by the grower, so stay tuned.
@@VAisForGrowers I saw a review by Shane on his Migro channel on the Growealth G series.(recommended) I have 2 with the IR, AND the UV Independent on/off switches. Want more, really are reasonably priced, but sales happen also.
Thank you for all the hard work you put into sharing your knowledge
Your comment is appreciated, please share the channel with others!
I’ve got three years on spiderfarmer sf-4000. They work great. And they still produce close to as much as they did new. They have run continuous these last three years.
As for the hvac switch I was already running hid lights so the change was great on my hvac from lower cooling temps from leds. Plus I was able to eliminate the ducting for hids
Your comments on a video coming out this week would be appreciated that covers converting from HPS to LED lights.
@@DeBaccoUniversity No problem. I would enjoy being able to contribute to your cause.
@@DeBaccoUniversity when I upgraded I knew how many amps each light I was replacing used. Instead of buying a 1000 watt equivalent led I bought enough lights to run the same amps as hid lights. So if 10 amps for hid I run same amount led. I get the same density as with hid without all the heat. I don’t need a chiller anymore for my dwc setup. The a/c does a good job in regulating temp. So a lot less heat and I get better colors in the plants than with hid. Same amount of power is being used for lights as before but now I use about a third in electric cooling the tent.
@@DeBaccoUniversity I’ve been the last six months experimenting with hanging the leds on the sides of tent for supplemental lighting. The simplicity of led vs a sealed hid light makes thing like this easier to do. I plan on later this year upgrading to a light bar setup like you showed and use these on side of tent to supplement light.
Been running one for almost a year now swapping from cheaper led's, massive difference, and heat control is much easier. Good to know the next few years look good!
Always happy when I get a notification ❤ thanks for all you do!
You must be liking this month;-)
I'm in the market for a new light and this gets posted! Awesome.
Great to know quality and timely content is provided on this channel!
Thanks once again Debacco for sharing your knowledge with us! This is definitely helping me out as im looking into lights for my 4-8ft tent right now!
Best of luck shopping, but at least now you are an informed consumer;-)
When you say plant science is lagging behind the lighting technology, wouldn't the best lighting spectrum recipe just aim to replicate nature? BTW fantastic video's, new subscriber and love the content.
This can offer a good starting point, but if a grower wants to push something extra from the plant this is where different spectrums can play a role.
Thanks professor!
You are welcome!
Ah yes.... lights... for years I didn't grow or start indoors, thank you common household lights that I have on anyways, you have saved me a literal fortune. Spectrum bla bla, put your plants near a window too, saves you time if you know what you're doing which isn't hard.
Good way to start, but to maximize production adjustments need to be made.
I own a bestVA 1000w led, what hight should I hang it? All my autos stayed small didn't grow quick enough
Typically 2-3ft. away from plant height.
I like LED's. They don't produce much heat which is great
Less heat does not mean no heat.
👍🌱🇬🇧
Thanks!
I always prefer LEDs my autoflower came out really good indoors with led
Compared to what?
@@DeBaccoUniversity hps tryed that as well led worked better save on electric and less heat led grow had better yeild and results
i
The saying goes "there is no replacement for displacement" in the auto industry, but this can also apply that "intensity leads to density" but growers need to know what the plants can handle.
The new LEDs work lots better than the old ones do, and more cost effective
thanx again professor
You are welcome thanks for your continued support.
Excellent content....wish I would have seen it a year ago lol...thanks for the info! I love your channel!
Good things come to those who wait.
LED lights do run cooler, but I still cool them the same way I did my HPS lights. Most growers use the common cool dry air coming in at the bottom of the tent and warm moist air out at the top.
I push cool dry air in at the top past my lights and the warm moist air out on the other side. It goes in to an external tent that cools, takes the excess moisture out, and adds fresh air from the intake and then pushes that air back in to the tent with the plants.
The CO2 from the fresh air falls down over the canopy as it goes past the lights. I figured this out by accident, I was trying to get the climate just right. I had budgeted to replace my lights every year and have not had to replace a single light and all of them have had a range of 10-15% reduction in par ratings.
Everyone of my growmies say their lights are dead or putting out half par at the one year mark.
This is just my experience, I could be super lucky but I believe it is because my lights run cooler.
Cooling play a major role in light longevity, so keep doing what you are.
👍🏿🍒
Glad you liked it.
The spectrum @ 1min. shows a 300 TO 800 range of influence.
My lights have controls to turn on/off below 400 and/or above 700, but the spectrum you have there is way broader - is that much spectrum available so far with the same flexibility? (in led)
What advice for using 1, both, or neither outside the 400 - 700 range for seedlings, veg, and flowers. Intensity also?
Great stuff, THX
the spectrum shown displays 300nm-800nm but the range of photosynthetically active radiation was defined as 400nm-700nm. Of course , that range has been updated to a new standard of ePAR 400nm-750nm thanks to the amazing Dr Bruce Bugbee. Without going into the reasons why, there is no need to have a 300-800 range fixture.
Focus on the 400-700nm range and your plants will be happy.
@@DeBaccoUniversity indeed
how about ePAR? is it beneficial to these crops? Bruce done an interesting take on it but I would like to see more on it for yields
The light spectrum beyond PAR can be beneficial, but how much of a benefit is still to be determined.
@@DeBaccoUniversity exactly, we need to see if its cost is beneficial or wank factor for cannabis crops. I wonder what it's affect will be during veg like uv/ir has a strange impact during veg.
Im happy to test in Australia 😂 I would love to take your courses! such awesome brains ❤️
Short version: Is it important to calibrate a pH meter at 25c or not?
Long version:
I apologize for posting a question unrelated to the subject of this video. I have become a bit desperate as I can find no info on the subject of how to calibrate a pH meter in which they talk about temperature during calibration, and I thought a recent video, from a channel I trust, might be the way to get an answer.
I must be misunderstanding something, because I do know that pH depends on temperature and my calibration fluids have an actual chart of the changes in pH at different tempuratures, so, to me, this seems like you must calibrate at the recommended temp of 25c, and yet, in dozens of "how to calibrate" videos, this is never mentioned.
Can someone point me to a video that explains this?
I guess if the answer is "yes, you must calibrate at 25c" it would make sense with my current understanding, but if the answer is "no, you can calibrate at any temperature", I would be confused as to how this is possible.
Room temperature or normal applied water temperature is what you should be calibrating at. While it is possible for temperature to change the pH of water it is typically with-in the tolerances of most people/equipment so this is why it is not mentioned. If you want the details look at... www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/acidbaseeqia/kw.html
Back at it again with another great one!🙏👏🤝
Nice to know you liked it.
👌🏾
Appreciated.
@@DeBaccoUniversity anytime
Your information is very good. One thing to consider slow down a bit especially when reading from a script. Thanks, good stuff!
You can adjust the speed on the video;-) This is the rate that I operate.
i am trying to grow my own first time ever, so im very limited using rockwool to germinate its popped 3/5 seeds in 3 days or less, and used a liquid seaweed mix/water, and in my pots i have some soil from the veg patches :) and i put in miracle grow balls plant food got 10 nutrients in it so im hoping for some results and im looking at a LED light as well for around 60quid
Best of luck with your plants.
If the Nameplate of an LED lamp says 1800 watts, are the LEDs actually using 1800 Watts? Or a lower %age…like 1800watts = 300 watt LED. On a 20 amp 120v circuit I should be able to use 5 lamps?.?
Look at the data tag and PAR outputs.
@@DeBaccoUniversity thanks. Are you suggesting the data tag would be more accurate than the name plate? What’s your experience? Is it "actually" 1000 watts? Or only 250? I understand PAR and lumens. But how to wire?