That was the real McCoy of tire repair videos. No one else would take the time to go through that whole rear tire process but you. Excellent. On my CRF250L I carry a 3' by 3' piece of Tyvek, that building wrap stuff. I think I pulled it out of the garbage at a construction site. That is the surface I use to keep grit out of axle tunnel when fixing tires on the ground. It folds up very small. Your demonstration could have been more real-world if you had done it on a dark, windy, rainy night along a busy highway!
I carry my stuff in those huge freezer ready Ziploc bags, you can remove the air inside for fitting dry socks, toilet paper, some tools and tire repair kits etc, the bags can be quite useful 😊
This is a top notch video. I've created my own tool and tire fix kit. I purposefully decided to choose items that surve more than one purpose. Two days ago I was able test my motorcycle stand choice. It was a folding bush saw. I just found a 3" deadfall and cut it long enough to prop up the motorcycle and change the rear tube. On anything more more than a 5 km's from civilization I pack enough to survive the night. You never know when you'll have cellular service and traveling solo has it's inherent risks
1) You don't need to tighten the valve nut down on the rim. I was taught to leave it loose so that it tilts if the tyre moves on the rim, potentially pulling the tube round and ripping the valve out of the tube. 2) When removing the tyre you should begin at the valve, so that the bead on the opposite side can go as far as possible into the rim well without being obstructed by the reinforced part of the tube around the valve. 3) When replacing the tyre, finish at the valve, again because, at the tightest point, the opposite bead will be as far as possible into the well.
Thanks for this video. Removed my rear tyre on my KTM exc today in under 5 minutes using your guide. It was like night & day from how i did it before....🙂🏁
That SAE connector the pump uses is quite handy. After getty my first charger with the system, I bought a bunch of full cables with battery ends + fuse and clean ends on the other side to retrofit all my other chargers. Chopped all the propietary connectors (tamiya kind and others) and unify everything into SAE. All my bikes have one of those fitted, and I have extra to carry and set in secons (well, if the battery is somewhere reachable) when I trip in borrowed bikes. I can then freely connect chargers and any temporary electrical device around: GPS / roadbook, a raw cable with clamps, etc. extremely usefull if you have more than one bike or several 12v accesories. I lack a real puncture plan, but I should start thinking about one. My current approach is not going too far from home (I´m learning after decades of road riding) and using a really stiff rear tyre that should give some range flat going very slow, but I know is pretty terrible as a plan. I should train in this if I ever plan to do someting even remotely serious. Thanks for the video!
Almost everyone takes this topic far too lightly. Good video! The magic about how easy that was is, like you said, is the tire size. The 140/80-18 also easily pops off the bead when the tube gets a puncture when rolling. Higher risk, but easier to fix. The 150/70-18 is a bear to get off to fix a punctured tube. The best solution for bikes this size or bigger is true tubeless wheels with the spoke nipples outside the air chamber.
Well I think the best thing for the T7 is narrower rims. I race in the Brit Rally champs with a couple of guys on T7s (I'm on my CRF450), they are rapid and put the bike thru a lot, and they have narrower rims, which means fitting 140s isn't an issue at all. There's not much choice in 150s when it comes to aggressive tyres, there's the Rebel Xplorer and that's about it. 150s are also very heavy and expensive. If you're like me and more interested in off-road grip then I think that's the way to go.
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 The T7 should have come with the narrower rear rim or tube type tires, or tubeless wheels for tubeless tires. I'm not happy that Yamaha used wide tube type rims with tubeless tires, that I need to put tubes in!
Good video, and you’re right, it’s the scary one. Halfords have a whole series of Michelin tyre pumps at the moment - I bought the smallest, about £28. It has a digital readout of tyre pressure which is handy. I carry two levers fixed to the bike - one bolted to where the pillion footrests used to mount, the other (a MP spanner-ended one like yours) held on to the dashboard with loops of old inner tube. My bikes are both small ones though, Serow and Innova-special. Thanks for taking the sting out of a rear puncture! Les
Brilliant video thanks. I have three bikes with tubed tyres and always a nag in the back of my mind when out and about whatamigonnerdo. Now I have a plan, so you have probably saved me a bunch of grief. thanks again.
I am watching this after changing 5 tyres on various bikes this week. A brilliant thing I bought recently to add to a kit is a Chinese copy of Motion Pro Bead Buddy. Very helpful when putting tyre on and cost like £4 on Ali. Trackers are soft and easy to put on, the most struggle I had two days ago with Mitas e09 Dakar version. I am praying for no puncture till I finish this tyre off, most likely won't buy ever again for how hard it is to put on. I bet you can ride it with no air for couple of miles. I think its important do be able to do tyre change on your own , each tyre changed is another thing added to experience.
I have a bead buddy but I always try to take the lightest load possible that doesn’t compromise performance - clearly I had no need for a bead buddy in this demo
Great video - very useful info! For those with a tubeless set up the Rocky Creek MotoPressor Puncture Repair Tool is a good tool to go with the pump (as long as the rim seal hasn't punctured as you said )👍
Thank you, some very interesting tips to bear in mind re tyre types and ease of removal/fitting in the field. Tools required and the stand kit are also a great set of tips. I think I would add a small pot of hand soap or hand cleaner to aid the refitting and seating. Also essential to consider the implications if you have tubeless and need to install a tube if the rim allows . Practice at home if you have never done it before. Great video many thanks.
I’d probably carry, if I had to but actually don’t need it as I showed, a little spray bottle of the stuff I use to clean the bike, that way you could either use to fix a flat or clean the bike on a multi day trip. As you say tho, the key thing is to practice other you’ll never work out what is gonna work for you 👍
Your vid has made me think about the type of tyre spoon I carry - strength, comfort and thinness looks to be the way to go... One thing I carry with me, and they take up no room and weigh nothing, is a couple of elasticated golf trolley wheel covers (they are marketed to keep the car boot clean after a muddy round of the annoying game). I wrap one each over the sprocket and disc and they keep the countryside away from the seals and bearings (and stop the cush rubbers in place). And I drop my axle into the exhaust can - that way it doesn't get kicked around in the dirt.... Great vid and thanks for sharing your expertise.
The tire spoon he using look like the DRC Pro spoons. I found them a few years ago and carry a set in each of my bikes. They make long and short and found the short ones good enough no need for the long ones. Search "DRC Pro" tire spoons.
My first tyre change (i.e. remove the old one and install the new one) took me about 5h. and it was exhausting. I always change the tyres by myself as a way of practicing. Now I can do tyre change under 30 min (having the wheel removed from the bike). I always use the tools I have on bike. BTW I had Motoz Tractionator Adventure 150mm wide on T7 and managed to install/remove it :)
@@deekox1 as I understand it the Rallz have a stiffer carcus, that said there is nothing I wanna use in a 150, there’s nothing available that is aggressive enough, much prefer the 140 aggressive stuff👍
Great and very informative video, though on a shit day in the pissing rain it won’t be so much straightforward fun😆 Has made me realise that I shouldn’t fear a puncture on a tubed tyre adv bike and just need to apply my boyhood skills of changing bicycle tyres/tubes but on a bigger scale! Though I know it’s obvious but you skipped the part of finding the puncture, extracting the offending nail/thorn etc before you put the repaired/spare tube back in.😜 10/10 presentation - subscribed.👍
These stiff ADV tires are so difficult to debead on this rim with the 'safety bead'. I'm going tubeless for sure and carrying plugs. I like your idea of using narrower tires though, that didn't look too bad to work with.
Awesome vid..as is your usual standard. With an enduro bike, you can get away with just taking a 21'' inner tube. For the 140 rear (and a bigger bike with more carry capacity) I would carry both.
There's a nice cavity on the exhaust side rear panel, with some wiggling you can feed the tube into that and just leave the valve sticking out in the rear seat compartment. When you need it pull it like the air mask on a plane!
Hey there, coming from the mountain bike world, it's never necessary to take the tire completely off to replace/access the tube (leave one bead sitting in the "drop channel"). Is it necessary to take the tire completely off on motorcycles?
It depends on the rim width and the tyre fitted to the rim - in my case the tyre doesn’t have the width or the flexibility to pull it out of the way. The attached vid shows tho that it can be done if the tyre allows it - ua-cam.com/video/bSpo5URKb6I/v-deo.htmlsi=DQNiFMlpwKpbo2pY
If you look on the Rolling Mavericks website you’ll see a pic of the stand under the front of the sump guard, this lifts the front end up. Some cut down and old crutch with a rubber bung at each end, this will do the same thing, just a bit bulkier and heavier. Obviously you could use a centre stand but that adds a lot of weight to the bike and they aren’t cheap
Well it’s worth having a search round on the tinterweb and seeing what those with your specific bike are doing. Obviously plug kits are essential but this chap I saw had an issue with the inner seal and couldn’t fit a tube because the valve was in the wrong place - so it’s worth a thinking about a s-edifice plan for your specific bike and setup. Obviously I recommend the pump tho, that’s a great bit of kit 👍
most will use some kind of emergency plug fitted from the outside, used sticky strips a number of times bit messy but generally very effective. if you need to dismount for some reason, breaking the bead can be more difficult than tube type, if your lucky to have another bike near use the weight of the bike and sidestand to push it off the bead usually works well, sure there are vids somewhere for this procedure, but once thats done the tyres are easier to dismount.
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 no worries my response was aimed at the other responder not yourself, yeh I understand your feature was aimed at conventional tubers, good vid.
Is Ultraseal or Slime or equivalent in the inner tube a good option? It's not a silver builet but its enough to keep you going without stopping to even notice you've picked up a puncture.
Yes I think some do use it, but as my riding is quite off-road focussed I like to keep the weight down, especially the wheel weight. I don't picture often so happy to just bang in a tube should the worse happen
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 Yes, that's a fair point that the tyre sealant will add weight to the wheel. I guess it comes down to personal preference.
I have the motion pro bead breakers but the short ones took me less time to change the tyres I run motoz adventures on my t7 than it took to get the wheels off the bike I did the pair then did my mates triumph 1200xca rear no problem and that’s a tubeless so it’s down to technique they are all you need
The Rallz have a much stiffer carcass, but i also have switched tyres for the grip, the Rallz just don’t have the grip for my needs. As I showed in the vid the STRs were easy to break the bead, but they are far more supple and flexible. The Rallz also weigh a lot more, much prefer a lighter wheel, especially when hitting whoops at speed
You should get one from any motion pro dealer but this is the link to amazon www.amazon.co.uk/Motion-Pro-08-0370-Combo-Adapter/dp/B009I1P8TA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1BALBJWX7TPDZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BEFEwl-BgQEyVKevp-3MN8b3Ci5A_hvoHJMYg-fNMVvWAAVWN__hG2E4-s0cZA2ufc_w650Qqaa4w3gDlRjUn8lpEupY4MNKkqt_pbLmrxCPwlBdmTRjg-sO_g3qbaAhw_Wo-niYxew-zVPmsoCvP05oGNjz7zJb_aZRwzTip9s.u3L9Z3-sIvBJVHmYu7IoNMlgQOSceOYJ_eU0Zr2n2Ck&dib_tag=se&keywords=motion+pro+32mm+adaptor&qid=1717264740&sprefix=motion+pro+32mm+adaptor%2Caps%2C66&sr=8-1
You have your rear axel in backwards. I'm not sure it makes a difference, but the axel inserts from right side to left and the nut is on the left (chain) side.
Tyre slime for tubed tyres , and a rechargeable battery operated portable pump . You can also pump up tubeless with another brand of stuff in a can . Enough to get home . Rode off road from 11 years old to 25 in the bush , only one puncture …pushed it ten km home ( YZ 80)
So what do you do if on a multi day trip and going home isn't an option? Slime doesn't always work so why not just fix it properly? Been riding and racing off-road for over 30 yrs and once you get used to getting the tyre off it only takes 15 mins and then the job is done, permanently.
Hi Mike you mentioned that you use your TRF membership to get a discount on your front Tracker. Could you share where that was and what the discount was? Many thanks
Well if you’re in the TRF you can go to the members bit on their website which has links to websites which give members a discount. I’m not gonna share codes etc because I think everyone should joint the TRF as they are a force for good and I don’t want to lose any future discounts. 👍
Never changed a tire, but I always wonder - doesn't these tire levers ruin the coating on rims? Or is it that if you are wild offroading you should not care about the rims, it's all survival at any cost and adv rims are meant to be abused? I ride pretend-adv myself, Transalp 700, so no experience in real offroad. My puncture plan is to hide bike in bushes and survive by hunting, gathering and distilling urine while waiting for trailer.
😂😂 I have never ever had a flat tyre on my dirtbike 🤷 I don't know why 😂 but it's been over 20 years of riding still haven't had a flat lucky I guess I had a few on my road bike but never dirt bike
Yeah it scratches them a little bit, but if you in the middle of nowhere and rescue isn’t an option then a few scratches is the least of your worries 🤷♂️
Nice video but try popping a 150 adventure rear tire off the bead after 200km of riding, it’s all good and well saying you don’t need bead breakers when you are stretching a 140 relatively soft mx tire onto a wide rim. You might get lucky but that can be incredibly hard work and might leave you stranded. The motion pro bead breakers are very good used correctly. I’d say 80-90% of Tenere riders are using 150 tires so a solution to break the bead is essential, especially with the harder compound tires like the OEM SR STR!
Well that’s the whole point, why fit a 150 if you can’t get it off and 140s give you better grip for off road scenarios? The 140 rears are fine, in fact I’m gonna get narrower rims so I can fit any 140 - I know loads of T7 owners who have done this, it’s a popular upgrade, especially for those looking to ride on more technical terrain.
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 tire wear/life, load ratings (pillion/luggage), road performance are 3 reasons. You said it yourself, they are fine, but, you are getting narrower rims. While I agree that a 140 is mostly fine for off-road, by stretching the tire you are reducing its safety on road. There is a reason why adventure bikes come with 150’s after all. If you are only riding minimal amounts of road without much on the back then all good, but that just makes me wonder why people would choose the Tenere and not go for something lighter that is made for 140’s. I’m also going to bite… 99.46% of riders can’t tell the difference off-road between a 140 or 150, assuming it’s the same or similar compound and tread tire. It’s the compound and pressure not the width that will make the difference for all but a few top riders.
@@tjhell totally disagree - I’ve been using 140s a while, been on long trips on road and off road, no issues at all. The main reason for using a 140 is grip, there is basically 1 tyre in a 150 with aggressive tread, but a few in 140 and they are way cheaper. People sometimes want a challenge, I have a crf450 but it makes most trails too easy, so the Tenere is a lot of fun on technical terrain. Tyres are everything, your average 50/50s just are pants off-road, dropping pressures will make bigger all difference.
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 I agreed they were mostly fine and I agree there is indeed more choice. Cost will of course depend where you live in the world, for example where I live the cost difference between a Mitas E10 140 vs 150 is about $15 USD, so it’s not a factor. Like I said above, if you are comparing like for like, there is virtually no difference between 150 and 140, it is literally 10mm wider and 0.6mm shorter, and not being stretched, you have more protection on the sidewall. Of course if you want to stick a proper enduro tire on and stick to the trail like a gekko on a wall then absolutely there is a huge difference. But with that difference comes higher risk of sidewall damage, reduced load rating and massively increased wear. All of a sudden your point about price is flipped upside down. I run Michelin enduro medium 140’s on my dirt bike (6-7 a year) so I know too well what performance vs wear vs cost looks like compared to the Tenere. Obviously nobody is putting Michelin enduro mediums on a Tenere, but I’d argue you will burn through the cost of an extra couple of Michelin Tracker (or similar) a year and of course be changing tires more often. I completely refute the comment about tire pressure, it will make a tonne of difference dropping from 28 to 20, much more so than reducing the width of the tire at the point that rarely touches the ground.
@@tjhell I race with a ton of guys on T7s on Michelin enduros, in face most the T7 owners I know and ride with use enduro tyres a lot of the time - wear is irrelevant, no point heading to Wales on tyres that give you bugger all grip in mud and on wet rock but last a lot longer. And the MT21 has a higher rating on a 140 than a Motoz Rallz in a 150, so your waffle about side walls is just waffle. Grip is everything off-road, tyre longevity is just some road bikers talk about
@@Fraserkins you would notice the difference, it’s only 10mm narrower - I’ve done about 1000 miles on that tyre now, 5 hr runs up the motorway, a coast to coast trip on technical terrain and it was awesome. Obviously wears faster than some other tyres but they don’t give you the grip
This is why I'm switching to mousses on my KTM, that's a lot of stuff to carry and not use on 99.9% of rides. My puncture plan at the moment is just to send someone back for my van if I do get one...
Well anyone with any sense runs tubeless on an mtb and I’ve never had to plug an mtb or road bike tyre because the puncture fluid you put in them has always worked for me - why we don’t do that with motorcycles I’ve yet to work out !🤷♂️🤘
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 Hai An overview of tire repairs that have tubes, procedure is similar - that was the purpose of the comparison, not what is better for us.
That was the real McCoy of tire repair videos. No one else would take the time to go through that whole rear tire process but you. Excellent. On my CRF250L I carry a 3' by 3' piece of Tyvek, that building wrap stuff. I think I pulled it out of the garbage at a construction site. That is the surface I use to keep grit out of axle tunnel when fixing tires on the ground. It folds up very small. Your demonstration could have been more real-world if you had done it on a dark, windy, rainy night along a busy highway!
I’ve got some of that waterproof membrane stuff that you use on timber frame buildings, I should cut a square of that off to carry -good idea 👍
@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 what trousers are you wearing. I got rst pro paragon 6 and there to big an stiff to go inside my mx boots..?
@@razzledazzle8948 Fox Ranger pants, from GH motorcycles in Colchester
I carry my stuff in those huge freezer ready Ziploc bags, you can remove the air inside for fitting dry socks, toilet paper, some tools and tire repair kits etc, the bags can be quite useful 😊
This is a top notch video.
I've created my own tool and tire fix kit. I purposefully decided to choose items that surve more than one purpose.
Two days ago I was able test my motorcycle stand choice. It was a folding bush saw. I just found a 3" deadfall and cut it long enough to prop up the motorcycle and change the rear tube. On anything more more than a 5 km's from civilization I pack enough to survive the night. You never know when you'll have cellular service and traveling solo has it's inherent risks
1) You don't need to tighten the valve nut down on the rim. I was taught to leave it loose so that it tilts if the tyre moves on the rim, potentially pulling the tube round and ripping the valve out of the tube.
2) When removing the tyre you should begin at the valve, so that the bead on the opposite side can go as far as possible into the rim well without being obstructed by the reinforced part of the tube around the valve.
3) When replacing the tyre, finish at the valve, again because, at the tightest point, the opposite bead will be as far as possible into the well.
So patience is important while doing this is one thing I learned from the video.
Thanks for this video. Removed my rear tyre on my KTM exc today in under 5 minutes using your guide. It was like night & day from how i did it before....🙂🏁
That SAE connector the pump uses is quite handy. After getty my first charger with the system, I bought a bunch of full cables with battery ends + fuse and clean ends on the other side to retrofit all my other chargers. Chopped all the propietary connectors (tamiya kind and others) and unify everything into SAE. All my bikes have one of those fitted, and I have extra to carry and set in secons (well, if the battery is somewhere reachable) when I trip in borrowed bikes.
I can then freely connect chargers and any temporary electrical device around: GPS / roadbook, a raw cable with clamps, etc. extremely usefull if you have more than one bike or several 12v accesories.
I lack a real puncture plan, but I should start thinking about one. My current approach is not going too far from home (I´m learning after decades of road riding) and using a really stiff rear tyre that should give some range flat going very slow, but I know is pretty terrible as a plan. I should train in this if I ever plan to do someting even remotely serious. Thanks for the video!
Fantastic video, very useful, Seeing it done was great thanks. A real service to the motorcycle community,subscribing now!
Almost everyone takes this topic far too lightly. Good video!
The magic about how easy that was is, like you said, is the tire size. The 140/80-18 also easily pops off the bead when the tube gets a puncture when rolling. Higher risk, but easier to fix.
The 150/70-18 is a bear to get off to fix a punctured tube. The best solution for bikes this size or bigger is true tubeless wheels with the spoke nipples outside the air chamber.
Well I think the best thing for the T7 is narrower rims. I race in the Brit Rally champs with a couple of guys on T7s (I'm on my CRF450), they are rapid and put the bike thru a lot, and they have narrower rims, which means fitting 140s isn't an issue at all. There's not much choice in 150s when it comes to aggressive tyres, there's the Rebel Xplorer and that's about it. 150s are also very heavy and expensive. If you're like me and more interested in off-road grip then I think that's the way to go.
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 The T7 should have come with the narrower rear rim or tube type tires, or tubeless wheels for tubeless tires. I'm not happy that Yamaha used wide tube type rims with tubeless tires, that I need to put tubes in!
Good video, and you’re right, it’s the scary one. Halfords have a whole series of Michelin tyre pumps at the moment - I bought the smallest, about £28. It has a digital readout of tyre pressure which is handy. I carry two levers fixed to the bike - one bolted to where the pillion footrests used to mount, the other (a MP spanner-ended one like yours) held on to the dashboard with loops of old inner tube. My bikes are both small ones though, Serow and Innova-special. Thanks for taking the sting out of a rear puncture! Les
Brilliant video thanks. I have three bikes with tubed tyres and always a nag in the back of my mind when out and about whatamigonnerdo. Now I have a plan, so you have probably saved me a bunch of grief. thanks again.
I am watching this after changing 5 tyres on various bikes this week. A brilliant thing I bought recently to add to a kit is a Chinese copy of Motion Pro Bead Buddy. Very helpful when putting tyre on and cost like £4 on Ali. Trackers are soft and easy to put on, the most struggle I had two days ago with Mitas e09 Dakar version. I am praying for no puncture till I finish this tyre off, most likely won't buy ever again for how hard it is to put on. I bet you can ride it with no air for couple of miles.
I think its important do be able to do tyre change on your own , each tyre changed is another thing added to experience.
I have a bead buddy but I always try to take the lightest load possible that doesn’t compromise performance - clearly I had no need for a bead buddy in this demo
Bead buddy fits on dirt bike wheels. The T7 ADV wheels are wider, and it doesn't fit.
Great video - very useful info! For those with a tubeless set up the Rocky Creek MotoPressor Puncture Repair Tool is a good tool to go with the pump (as long as the rim seal hasn't punctured as you said )👍
Thank you, some very interesting tips to bear in mind re tyre types and ease of removal/fitting in the field. Tools required and the stand kit are also a great set of tips. I think I would add a small pot of hand soap or hand cleaner to aid the refitting and seating.
Also essential to consider the implications if you have tubeless and need to install a tube if the rim allows . Practice at home if you have never done it before.
Great video many thanks.
I’d probably carry, if I had to but actually don’t need it as I showed, a little spray bottle of the stuff I use to clean the bike, that way you could either use to fix a flat or clean the bike on a multi day trip. As you say tho, the key thing is to practice other you’ll never work out what is gonna work for you 👍
Your vid has made me think about the type of tyre spoon I carry - strength, comfort and thinness looks to be the way to go...
One thing I carry with me, and they take up no room and weigh nothing, is a couple of elasticated golf trolley wheel covers (they are marketed to keep the car boot clean after a muddy round of the annoying game). I wrap one each over the sprocket and disc and they keep the countryside away from the seals and bearings (and stop the cush rubbers in place). And I drop my axle into the exhaust can - that way it doesn't get kicked around in the dirt....
Great vid and thanks for sharing your expertise.
Like that idea with the covers, great tip 👍
The tire spoon he using look like the DRC Pro spoons. I found them a few years ago and carry a set in each of my bikes. They make long and short and found the short ones good enough no need for the long ones. Search "DRC Pro" tire spoons.
Excellent video - sensible advice, I might amend my puncture plan a bit.
My first tyre change (i.e. remove the old one and install the new one) took me about 5h. and it was exhausting. I always change the tyres by myself as a way of practicing. Now I can do tyre change under 30 min (having the wheel removed from the bike). I always use the tools I have on bike. BTW I had Motoz Tractionator Adventure 150mm wide on T7 and managed to install/remove it :)
@@deekox1 as I understand it the Rallz have a stiffer carcus, that said there is nothing I wanna use in a 150, there’s nothing available that is aggressive enough, much prefer the 140 aggressive stuff👍
Great production quality. Subscribed!
Great and very informative video, though on a shit day in the pissing rain it won’t be so much straightforward fun😆 Has made me realise that I shouldn’t fear a puncture on a tubed tyre adv bike and just need to apply my boyhood skills of changing bicycle tyres/tubes but on a bigger scale! Though I know it’s obvious but you skipped the part of finding the puncture, extracting the offending nail/thorn etc before you put the repaired/spare tube back in.😜 10/10 presentation - subscribed.👍
These stiff ADV tires are so difficult to debead on this rim with the 'safety bead'. I'm going tubeless for sure and carrying plugs.
I like your idea of using narrower tires though, that didn't look too bad to work with.
Awesome vid..as is your usual standard. With an enduro bike, you can get away with just taking a 21'' inner tube. For the 140 rear (and a bigger bike with more carry capacity) I would carry both.
Exactly what I do - always have patches and a 21” in my daysack and an 18” tube under the seat on the T 7 👍👌
There's a nice cavity on the exhaust side rear panel, with some wiggling you can feed the tube into that and just leave the valve sticking out in the rear seat compartment. When you need it pull it like the air mask on a plane!
Hey there, coming from the mountain bike world, it's never necessary to take the tire completely off to replace/access the tube (leave one bead sitting in the "drop channel"). Is it necessary to take the tire completely off on motorcycles?
It depends on the rim width and the tyre fitted to the rim - in my case the tyre doesn’t have the width or the flexibility to pull it out of the way. The attached vid shows tho that it can be done if the tyre allows it - ua-cam.com/video/bSpo5URKb6I/v-deo.htmlsi=DQNiFMlpwKpbo2pY
Great video. Thank you.
Great video, I’m only just starting my off road journey can I ask if you had a front puncture how would you lift the wheel?
If you look on the Rolling Mavericks website you’ll see a pic of the stand under the front of the sump guard, this lifts the front end up. Some cut down and old crutch with a rubber bung at each end, this will do the same thing, just a bit bulkier and heavier. Obviously you could use a centre stand but that adds a lot of weight to the bike and they aren’t cheap
Rolling Maverick can now send direct to UK, they've jumped through all the Brexit hoops.
@TheIdlesurfer you have to pay them as friends though to get round it
Used to do mine with a racket strap around a tree works the same
I decided to go for the 'works without a tree option...' 🤣
I have done it in the past with my tow strap and a tent peg!
Great video as always. I’m running tubeless on the new bike. What would be your recommendations for preparing for punctures on this set up?
Well it’s worth having a search round on the tinterweb and seeing what those with your specific bike are doing. Obviously plug kits are essential but this chap I saw had an issue with the inner seal and couldn’t fit a tube because the valve was in the wrong place - so it’s worth a thinking about a s-edifice plan for your specific bike and setup. Obviously I recommend the pump tho, that’s a great bit of kit 👍
most will use some kind of emergency plug fitted from the outside, used sticky strips a number of times bit messy but generally very effective. if you need to dismount for some reason, breaking the bead can be more difficult than tube type, if your lucky to have another bike near use the weight of the bike and sidestand to push it off the bead usually works well, sure there are vids somewhere for this procedure, but once thats done the tyres are easier to dismount.
@@bikenavbm1229 well yeah, but the point I’m making here is what do you do if on your own 🤘🤷♂️
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 no worries my response was aimed at the other responder not yourself, yeh I understand your feature was aimed at conventional tubers, good vid.
Tyres no use for euro trips. But see your point for local trips.
Thanks Mike, good common sense advice.
Good video where can i get your spanner to ratchet tool. Anyone using mitas dakar tyres good look
Links in the description to the spanner/spoon, if you call the adventure bike shop or any motion pro dealer they’ll be able to help you I’m sure
Thankyou. Great video. Subbed up for sure.
Is Ultraseal or Slime or equivalent in the inner tube a good option?
It's not a silver builet but its enough to keep you going without stopping to even notice you've picked up a puncture.
Yes I think some do use it, but as my riding is quite off-road focussed I like to keep the weight down, especially the wheel weight. I don't picture often so happy to just bang in a tube should the worse happen
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 Yes, that's a fair point that the tyre sealant will add weight to the wheel.
I guess it comes down to personal preference.
I have the motion pro bead breakers but the short ones took me less time to change the tyres I run motoz adventures on my t7 than it took to get the wheels off the bike I did the pair then did my mates triumph 1200xca rear no problem and that’s a tubeless so it’s down to technique they are all you need
The Rallz have a much stiffer carcass, but i also have switched tyres for the grip, the Rallz just don’t have the grip for my needs. As I showed in the vid the STRs were easy to break the bead, but they are far more supple and flexible. The Rallz also weigh a lot more, much prefer a lighter wheel, especially when hitting whoops at speed
Hi Mike. Any chance you could do a route or send me a gpx file of how you get from Roman rd in camb to thetford plz? Cheers
Nice tooling setup. Do you eventually have a link for that adapter for the 32mm key to 1/2 inch square ?
You should get one from any motion pro dealer but this is the link to amazon www.amazon.co.uk/Motion-Pro-08-0370-Combo-Adapter/dp/B009I1P8TA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1BALBJWX7TPDZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BEFEwl-BgQEyVKevp-3MN8b3Ci5A_hvoHJMYg-fNMVvWAAVWN__hG2E4-s0cZA2ufc_w650Qqaa4w3gDlRjUn8lpEupY4MNKkqt_pbLmrxCPwlBdmTRjg-sO_g3qbaAhw_Wo-niYxew-zVPmsoCvP05oGNjz7zJb_aZRwzTip9s.u3L9Z3-sIvBJVHmYu7IoNMlgQOSceOYJ_eU0Zr2n2Ck&dib_tag=se&keywords=motion+pro+32mm+adaptor&qid=1717264740&sprefix=motion+pro+32mm+adaptor%2Caps%2C66&sr=8-1
You have your rear axel in backwards. I'm not sure it makes a difference, but the axel inserts from right side to left and the nut is on the left (chain) side.
@@TGSTelly that’s deliberate, makes getting the wheel off easier
To help break the bead, keep riding with the puncture till the bead breaks. If I get a puncture I put a new tube in.
Tyre slime for tubed tyres , and a rechargeable battery operated portable pump .
You can also pump up tubeless with another brand of stuff in a can .
Enough to get home .
Rode off road from 11 years old to 25 in the bush , only one puncture …pushed it ten km home ( YZ 80)
So what do you do if on a multi day trip and going home isn't an option? Slime doesn't always work so why not just fix it properly? Been riding and racing off-road for over 30 yrs and once you get used to getting the tyre off it only takes 15 mins and then the job is done, permanently.
Hi Mike you mentioned that you use your TRF membership to get a discount on your front Tracker. Could you share where that was and what the discount was? Many thanks
Well if you’re in the TRF you can go to the members bit on their website which has links to websites which give members a discount. I’m not gonna share codes etc because I think everyone should joint the TRF as they are a force for good and I don’t want to lose any future discounts. 👍
This is the website we get 5% discount on, still a good price tho 👍 endurotyres.com/product/michelin-tracker-mc-54r-front-90-90-21/
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 Thanks Mike. I'm already a member of the TRF. It just sounded that under £50 was an amazing deal!
Never changed a tire, but I always wonder - doesn't these tire levers ruin the coating on rims? Or is it that if you are wild offroading you should not care about the rims, it's all survival at any cost and adv rims are meant to be abused? I ride pretend-adv myself, Transalp 700, so no experience in real offroad. My puncture plan is to hide bike in bushes and survive by hunting, gathering and distilling urine while waiting for trailer.
😂😂 I have never ever had a flat tyre on my dirtbike 🤷 I don't know why 😂 but it's been over 20 years of riding still haven't had a flat lucky I guess I had a few on my road bike but never dirt bike
Yeah it scratches them a little bit, but if you in the middle of nowhere and rescue isn’t an option then a few scratches is the least of your worries 🤷♂️
Nice video but try popping a 150 adventure rear tire off the bead after 200km of riding, it’s all good and well saying you don’t need bead breakers when you are stretching a 140 relatively soft mx tire onto a wide rim. You might get lucky but that can be incredibly hard work and might leave you stranded. The motion pro bead breakers are very good used correctly. I’d say 80-90% of Tenere riders are using 150 tires so a solution to break the bead is essential, especially with the harder compound tires like the OEM SR STR!
Well that’s the whole point, why fit a 150 if you can’t get it off and 140s give you better grip for off road scenarios? The 140 rears are fine, in fact I’m gonna get narrower rims so I can fit any 140 - I know loads of T7 owners who have done this, it’s a popular upgrade, especially for those looking to ride on more technical terrain.
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 tire wear/life, load ratings (pillion/luggage), road performance are 3 reasons. You said it yourself, they are fine, but, you are getting narrower rims. While I agree that a 140 is mostly fine for off-road, by stretching the tire you are reducing its safety on road. There is a reason why adventure bikes come with 150’s after all. If you are only riding minimal amounts of road without much on the back then all good, but that just makes me wonder why people would choose the Tenere and not go for something lighter that is made for 140’s. I’m also going to bite… 99.46% of riders can’t tell the difference off-road between a 140 or 150, assuming it’s the same or similar compound and tread tire. It’s the compound and pressure not the width that will make the difference for all but a few top riders.
@@tjhell totally disagree - I’ve been using 140s a while, been on long trips on road and off road, no issues at all. The main reason for using a 140 is grip, there is basically 1 tyre in a 150 with aggressive tread, but a few in 140 and they are way cheaper. People sometimes want a challenge, I have a crf450 but it makes most trails too easy, so the Tenere is a lot of fun on technical terrain. Tyres are everything, your average 50/50s just are pants off-road, dropping pressures will make bigger all difference.
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 I agreed they were mostly fine and I agree there is indeed more choice. Cost will of course depend where you live in the world, for example where I live the cost difference between a Mitas E10 140 vs 150 is about $15 USD, so it’s not a factor. Like I said above, if you are comparing like for like, there is virtually no difference between 150 and 140, it is literally 10mm wider and 0.6mm shorter, and not being stretched, you have more protection on the sidewall. Of course if you want to stick a proper enduro tire on and stick to the trail like a gekko on a wall then absolutely there is a huge difference. But with that difference comes higher risk of sidewall damage, reduced load rating and massively increased wear. All of a sudden your point about price is flipped upside down. I run Michelin enduro medium 140’s on my dirt bike (6-7 a year) so I know too well what performance vs wear vs cost looks like compared to the Tenere. Obviously nobody is putting Michelin enduro mediums on a Tenere, but I’d argue you will burn through the cost of an extra couple of Michelin Tracker (or similar) a year and of course be changing tires more often. I completely refute the comment about tire pressure, it will make a tonne of difference dropping from 28 to 20, much more so than reducing the width of the tire at the point that rarely touches the ground.
@@tjhell I race with a ton of guys on T7s on Michelin enduros, in face most the T7 owners I know and ride with use enduro tyres a lot of the time - wear is irrelevant, no point heading to Wales on tyres that give you bugger all grip in mud and on wet rock but last a lot longer. And the MT21 has a higher rating on a 140 than a Motoz Rallz in a 150, so your waffle about side walls is just waffle. Grip is everything off-road, tyre longevity is just some road bikers talk about
Cool
Does the bike ride okay with the narrower tyre ?
@@Fraserkins you would notice the difference, it’s only 10mm narrower - I’ve done about 1000 miles on that tyre now, 5 hr runs up the motorway, a coast to coast trip on technical terrain and it was awesome. Obviously wears faster than some other tyres but they don’t give you the grip
This is why I'm switching to mousses on my KTM, that's a lot of stuff to carry and not use on 99.9% of rides. My puncture plan at the moment is just to send someone back for my van if I do get one...
Alas you can’t use mousses on adv bike rear 🤷♂️
Why do you need a hex piece to undo the front axle? On my bikes you just undo the nut on the left side and then undo the pinch bolts.
On the T7 the hex drive tool removes the axle, there is no axle nut on the T7 👍 so to remove you undo the 10mm pinch bolts and then screw out the axle
I am that scared about getting a puncture thinking about paying a fortune and changing my wheels to tubeless
You don't use rim protector then?
do you mean those blue things that stop the spoons scratching the rim?
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 yes mate
@@Alan_RusseI class those scratches as ‘battle scars’. 😉
@@Alan_Russe no mate, just something else to faff about with, although I get why some might want to use them 👍
more crap to carry but if its that important cut up a drinks bottle or carry some similar bits.
Basically the same procedure as with a mountain bike, except that here you burn at least ten times more calories 😁
Well anyone with any sense runs tubeless on an mtb and I’ve never had to plug an mtb or road bike tyre because the puncture fluid you put in them has always worked for me - why we don’t do that with motorcycles I’ve yet to work out !🤷♂️🤘
@@twowheeledadventuresuk2739 Hai An overview of tire repairs that have tubes, procedure is similar - that was the purpose of the comparison, not what is better for us.
you can ride bloody miles on a flat on a bike --- slower speed all the way to a servo even if its 100 miles away
Or just stop, find it, fix it and 15 mins later you just crack on
mousse - no punctures 🙂
And no longer tours
Run Bibs
Problem solved
You can’t on a 200kg bike, they’d soon get destroyed with the extra weight and heat generated at motorway speeds
Sorry, dude, you have no idea how to do a puncture. You made it look painful 😮 p.s. Wd40 will swell the rubber.