Really nice build and painting job. Thank u for your time to make video, that being said video is nicely done and easy for the eyes. Furthermore you get a new subscriber. Cheers.
32:30: the method of fitting the landing gear to the model is innovative and clever. So the correct angle of mounting is achieved and it sticks dead certain. An idea that should be adopted by other model manufacturers. The only reasonable improvement would be metal landing gears...
I want to get back into modeling myself and checking out all these videos to learn some skills. It surprises me that some modelers assemble as much as possible before painting them while other paint first before assembly. The biggest thing I might have been doing wrong all those years back was that I always put glue on the contactsides before putting it together while in every video I watched they hold it together and brushing the glue on the edges. Also must buy some good airbrush gear. What can anyone recommend for airbrush gear and brands of paint to use?
Hi Dot Matrix! Re: how much to assemble before painting, I consider following factors: (a) how difficult it is going to be to paint the subassembly (is it going to need complicated masking, paint hard to reach areas, etc.), (b) would painting before gluing result in better colors separation, (c) how good is the fit of parts. But, also note that in this video I purposely painted parts before gluing just for the sake of the video. You can do much bigger subassemblies with this kit. As for gluing parts together: that depends on the glue you are using. The extra thin glues (especially the quick setting ones) work much better when you put parts together first and then apply the glue. But with thicker glues you ally the glue first. For airbrush I settled on Badger for two reasons: (1) it is very easy to clean and (2) it is a great airbrush :-D (I have Patriot 105 and Krome). For airbrushing I use Tamiya and MRP paints. MRP is airbrush ready and one of the best I tried, but more pricier than Tamiya. With Tamiya I find the trick is to use their lacquer thinner and thin at least 1 part paint, 2 parts thinner (that is the basic ratio where you start, you may need to add more thinner based on the conditions and what you are spraying). Also welcome back to the hobby - I myself came back to it about 5 years ago.
@@DavidAndrs80 Thank you very much David for taking the time to reply and is really helpfull, I will take your advise with me. I still have a Badger airbrush laying around, probably needs a bit of repair after 25 years of not using it. Otherwise I need to get a new one and perhaps a compressor. I'm planning to start this week, got a 2nd hand 1:72 F-101B Voodoo from Revell mainly for nostalgic reasons. 😃 Hope I can resist buying more kits than I can reasonably build this time around. 😂
Hi David, I have this very kit, and a few hours today could not find a video except yours, Very Nice mate! Your skill with air brush will be a struggle for me dead set! Any way to give mine a bit of a THEME I am looking at putting it in South West Pacific as a tribute to Group Captain (before court marshal) Clive 'Killer' Cadwell at MOROTAL as CO no 80 Wing. While I know that the Mark or the Spitfire is certainly not the same, as returning to the hobby after a long, long lay off I have to start some place, Thanks Again for the hints!!
Hi Tony! Thanks you and welcome back to the hobby. This is a very nice kit and you will have a lot of pleasant moments building it. If you don't feel up to the challenge to spray the camo free hand, look around for some patafix, bluetac or masking modeling putty. This will allow you to lay down the border lines and spray the camo fields. Peek around the ScaleModelAircraft (ua-cam.com/users/ScaleModelAircraft) channel here on youtube. He is using that technique quite a bit. I found that channel quite helpful when I got back to the hobby - many useful tricks there. In case you are not a subscriber already.
@@DavidAndrs80 mate I have been getting over bad chest infection lately so hope that I can get back to my model table before weekend? BTW just ordered a Tamiya Spit mk 1;-)
Beautiful build of this kit! May I ask where you got the peelabe decals for the serial number? I know Eduard do some stencils, but I haven't seen anything else from them...
They are home made. You take Sunnyscopa Type A film-free waterslide decal paper. You make your design and print it on a laser printer vertically flipped. Then, use Mr. mark setter (the blue one) to apply. Let dry for several hours, then peel. This is not my invention. I found somebody on YT that described this method and they claimed you have to use these exact products. I did not check if other products work as well, but those ones worked for me... Also, this is roughly the idea of how HGW wet transfers work, but their technology is much more advanced...
Hi Piotr! My go-to glue for painted parts is Micro Krystal Klear (it is the white glue you see in the video). It is fairly sticky (unlike regular white glue) and dries to matte finish. However it takes several hours to fully cure - which may or may not be an advantage. But, the choice of glue also depends on what you are gluing to what and if there is going to be some force applied to the part (for example tension from a rigging line, or weight of the model applied on the undercarriage, etc.). And, of course, how the manufacturer engineered the joint between the parts. Based on that, I can switch to super glue, epoxy glue or Tamiya cement (hexagonal bottle with orange cap) Hope this helps and thanks for your comment!
Really nice build and painting job. Thank u for your time to make video, that being said video is nicely done and easy for the eyes.
Furthermore you get a new subscriber.
Cheers.
Great job. Great music. Pure joy. Thanks.
Thank you for your comment, glad to hear you enjoyed the video.
Simply stunning work!
Glad you like it!
Beautiful build, not overdone with weathering, greatly and superbly done…
Thank you, John!
Impressive precision airbrush work! Gorgeous end result.
Thank you! Airbrushing is one of the things I enjoy the most in model making.
Really like this Job 10/10
What an amazing build video. 👍👍👍 for that precision airbrushing.
Good learning point for me, how to airbrush. Like your Spit. Nice job.
Thanks you and glad to hear the video was helpful
The first ones that I saw painttng before gluenyng. Great job!
This was possible to do, because of the excellent fit of the Tamiya kit.
Also, thank you for your comment!
32:30: the method of fitting the landing gear to the model is innovative and clever. So the correct angle of mounting is achieved and it sticks dead certain. An idea that should be adopted by other model manufacturers. The only reasonable improvement would be metal landing gears...
I agree. I wish more manufactures invested more time into little details like that.
krásná práce .
👍
Dekuji!
Paráda, skutečně překrásná hodinářská práce! S tím Dvořákem to krásně souzní :)
Diky moc!
Beautiful work!!
Thank you very much!
Impressive! Thanks for the video and build.
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
Great job!
Wow, well done 👍
Great work! Thanks for your efforts.
Thank you, that's very kind of you.
Fantastic.
just super job!
Great build! more videos please
Hopefully soon, work was crazy in past few months
I want to get back into modeling myself and checking out all these videos to learn some skills.
It surprises me that some modelers assemble as much as possible before painting them while other paint first before assembly.
The biggest thing I might have been doing wrong all those years back was that I always put glue on the contactsides before putting it together while in every video I watched they hold it together and brushing the glue on the edges.
Also must buy some good airbrush gear.
What can anyone recommend for airbrush gear and brands of paint to use?
Hi Dot Matrix!
Re: how much to assemble before painting, I consider following factors: (a) how difficult it is going to be to paint the subassembly (is it going to need complicated masking, paint hard to reach areas, etc.), (b) would painting before gluing result in better colors separation, (c) how good is the fit of parts. But, also note that in this video I purposely painted parts before gluing just for the sake of the video. You can do much bigger subassemblies with this kit.
As for gluing parts together: that depends on the glue you are using. The extra thin glues (especially the quick setting ones) work much better when you put parts together first and then apply the glue. But with thicker glues you ally the glue first.
For airbrush I settled on Badger for two reasons: (1) it is very easy to clean and (2) it is a great airbrush :-D (I have Patriot 105 and Krome).
For airbrushing I use Tamiya and MRP paints. MRP is airbrush ready and one of the best I tried, but more pricier than Tamiya. With Tamiya I find the trick is to use their lacquer thinner and thin at least 1 part paint, 2 parts thinner (that is the basic ratio where you start, you may need to add more thinner based on the conditions and what you are spraying).
Also welcome back to the hobby - I myself came back to it about 5 years ago.
@@DavidAndrs80 Thank you very much David for taking the time to reply and is really helpfull, I will take your advise with me. I still have a Badger airbrush laying around, probably needs a bit of repair after 25 years of not using it. Otherwise I need to get a new one and perhaps a compressor.
I'm planning to start this week, got a 2nd hand 1:72 F-101B Voodoo from Revell mainly for nostalgic reasons. 😃
Hope I can resist buying more kits than I can reasonably build this time around. 😂
Best of luck with your build
Hi David, I have this very kit, and a few hours today could not find a video except yours, Very Nice mate! Your skill with air brush will be a struggle for me dead set! Any way to give mine a bit of a THEME I am looking at putting it in South West Pacific as a tribute to Group Captain (before court marshal) Clive 'Killer' Cadwell at MOROTAL as CO no 80 Wing. While I know that the Mark or the Spitfire is certainly not the same, as returning to the hobby after a long, long lay off I have to start some place, Thanks Again for the hints!!
Hi Tony!
Thanks you and welcome back to the hobby. This is a very nice kit and you will have a lot of pleasant moments building it.
If you don't feel up to the challenge to spray the camo free hand, look around for some patafix, bluetac or masking modeling putty. This will allow you to lay down the border lines and spray the camo fields. Peek around the ScaleModelAircraft (ua-cam.com/users/ScaleModelAircraft) channel here on youtube. He is using that technique quite a bit. I found that channel quite helpful when I got back to the hobby - many useful tricks there. In case you are not a subscriber already.
@@DavidAndrs80 mate I have been getting over bad chest infection lately so hope that I can get back to my model table before weekend? BTW just ordered a Tamiya Spit mk 1;-)
I remember a very nice matchbox 1/32 spitfire kit, 40 years ago. I still have to terminate my ME109 kit…
Beautiful build of this kit! May I ask where you got the peelabe decals for the serial number? I know Eduard do some stencils, but I haven't seen anything else from them...
They are home made. You take Sunnyscopa Type A film-free waterslide decal paper. You make your design and print it on a laser printer vertically flipped. Then, use Mr. mark setter (the blue one) to apply. Let dry for several hours, then peel. This is not my invention. I found somebody on YT that described this method and they claimed you have to use these exact products. I did not check if other products work as well, but those ones worked for me...
Also, this is roughly the idea of how HGW wet transfers work, but their technology is much more advanced...
Wow!!!
Bravo!!!!!!
Great....but it's useful to know what scale.
Very nice.. What make is it.. Tamiya or something else... Gotta be a 1/32 scale by the look of it 👍
Right, it is Tamiya's 1:32
We want bf 109 or fw 190
Great job! What glues do you use for painted elements?
Hi Piotr! My go-to glue for painted parts is Micro Krystal Klear (it is the white glue you see in the video). It is fairly sticky (unlike regular white glue) and dries to matte finish. However it takes several hours to fully cure - which may or may not be an advantage.
But, the choice of glue also depends on what you are gluing to what and if there is going to be some force applied to the part (for example tension from a rigging line, or weight of the model applied on the undercarriage, etc.). And, of course, how the manufacturer engineered the joint between the parts. Based on that, I can switch to super glue, epoxy glue or Tamiya cement (hexagonal bottle with orange cap)
Hope this helps and thanks for your comment!
WoooooW!!!!!!
What make - Eduard ??
Im proud to be owner Tamiya Mk.IX, 1/32
Is the main camo paint tamiya or MRP? I'm doing a 1/32 Spit right now and this paint looks bang on.
The main camo colors are Tamiya. Probably too late to be helpful.
Hopefully your Spitfire turned out great!
@@DavidAndrs80 I hedged my bet on them being tamiya based on similar tone from your Hurricane build and went with that.
Thanks!!
Fantastic!! the white glue you use, is it micro kristal klear?
Thank you! Yes, the white glue is Micro Kristal Clear
@@DavidAndrs80 Cheers..thanks for that!
Very nice, great modelling. But the crowbar colour, never red!
Awesome... 1/32?
Yes, it is 1:32 scale
Another red crowbar in Spitfire!!! Totally WRONG!!!🎃🎃🎃
May I know the name of background music? Thank you for sharing the great video!
Antonin Dvorak, Symphony, No. 8. There is also a link in the video description...