That was a Klemheist. It's a friction hitch in the prusik family. It's easy to undo, after being loaded. It's main downside, is that it only works in one direction. I like it in the 3 to 1, because of the one direction. It's easy to reposition, and if it butts up against a pulley, it will still let the rope pass through. Thank you for pointing out the confusion. It gave me a new video topic.
Fundamentally it is a working 3:1 system. However, why do you have such long prusik loops? You even tie a knot in one to shorten it, which by the way hardly shortens it at all but does significantly weaken the cord by up to 65%. And, why would you put an unnecessary knot into a tensioning system? It’s only going to be hard to undo, (I actually thought you were going to clip inside the overhand knot, which would have made more sense). A prusik of around 35cm will allow you to tie a classic or French prusik and if you really want for some reason a klemheist (yours is tied badly which is why it slides when you pull it!), the the first two options work better though. The square shaped pulleys you’re using are designed to work with prusik loops, by releasing the prusik when it touches. The top prusik works as the progress capture, by having your loop sooooo long, you risk it not engaging properly, greater shock loading if the system slips and a lot of lost effort as the canoe/raft will slide backwards until the prusik grabs. Ideally you want it to grab instantly (like a mechanical device would), so another couple of reasons to shorten your prusik.
@rogorpalin5864 Thanks for pointing those things out. When I made this video, I was working on a rather tight budget. And much of my gear was acquired through my college professor. I have long some longer loops, so extra wraps can be added to the prusik hitches for extra bite on smaller rope. I was taught that during several rope/swift water courses. Have I tested it myself? No. When I started putting my kit together I wanted to have the ability to use it on a verity of rope thickness because I didn't have a set haul rope of my own yet. And, you're right about the loss of strength and hard to untie knots. Any knot will weaken the strength of the rope, the type of knot determines the percent loss. Clipping through the knot is also valid. Thank you for pointing that out. I know many people who have had to use the Z-brag or (3 to 1) in the field. Do my best to try other options first. I mainly use it as an option while dealing with stuck river craft, so I don't get all the parts the thoughts/attention that I should. Thank you for the comment. You have definitely reminded me to take a look through my kit, and work on it more.
By the way, in your other video, to prusik or not (comments are off on that video) you keep saying your demonstrating a clove hitch, you’re not, it’s a Larks Foot or Girth Hitch
Wow. Thanks for letting me know about that. I tend to miss speak, and it's nice when it's pointed out. I will admit many of the videos for that year I was still trying to figure out what I wanted this channel to be. They're definitely not my best work. And I am currently doing what I can to change that. I hope that you or people like you can continue to what the videos I make, I enjoy the feed back and corrections.
Awesome video, thanks!
What was the first knot you tied for your friction hitch? I was expecting a prusik knot
That was a Klemheist. It's a friction hitch in the prusik family. It's easy to undo, after being loaded. It's main downside, is that it only works in one direction.
I like it in the 3 to 1, because of the one direction. It's easy to reposition, and if it butts up against a pulley, it will still let the rope pass through.
Thank you for pointing out the confusion. It gave me a new video topic.
Fundamentally it is a working 3:1 system. However, why do you have such long prusik loops? You even tie a knot in one to shorten it, which by the way hardly shortens it at all but does significantly weaken the cord by up to 65%. And, why would you put an unnecessary knot into a tensioning system? It’s only going to be hard to undo, (I actually thought you were going to clip inside the overhand knot, which would have made more sense). A prusik of around 35cm will allow you to tie a classic or French prusik and if you really want for some reason a klemheist (yours is tied badly which is why it slides when you pull it!), the the first two options work better though. The square shaped pulleys you’re using are designed to work with prusik loops, by releasing the prusik when it touches. The top prusik works as the progress capture, by having your loop sooooo long, you risk it not engaging properly, greater shock loading if the system slips and a lot of lost effort as the canoe/raft will slide backwards until the prusik grabs. Ideally you want it to grab instantly (like a mechanical device would), so another couple of reasons to shorten your prusik.
@rogorpalin5864 Thanks for pointing those things out. When I made this video, I was working on a rather tight budget. And much of my gear was acquired through my college professor. I have long some longer loops, so extra wraps can be added to the prusik hitches for extra bite on smaller rope. I was taught that during several rope/swift water courses. Have I tested it myself? No. When I started putting my kit together I wanted to have the ability to use it on a verity of rope thickness because I didn't have a set haul rope of my own yet. And, you're right about the loss of strength and hard to untie knots. Any knot will weaken the strength of the rope, the type of knot determines the percent loss. Clipping through the knot is also valid. Thank you for pointing that out. I know many people who have had to use the Z-brag or (3 to 1) in the field. Do my best to try other options first. I mainly use it as an option while dealing with stuck river craft, so I don't get all the parts the thoughts/attention that I should. Thank you for the comment. You have definitely reminded me to take a look through my kit, and work on it more.
By the way, in your other video, to prusik or not (comments are off on that video) you keep saying your demonstrating a clove hitch, you’re not, it’s a Larks Foot or Girth Hitch
Wow. Thanks for letting me know about that. I tend to miss speak, and it's nice when it's pointed out. I will admit many of the videos for that year I was still trying to figure out what I wanted this channel to be. They're definitely not my best work. And I am currently doing what I can to change that. I hope that you or people like you can continue to what the videos I make, I enjoy the feed back and corrections.
I used to, instead of Prussik cords, I would tie mid line alpine butterflies and clip a carabiner
That's not how to lay a prusik and when you shorten your prusik use a figure of 8, a figure 8 reduces the braking strain to only 84%
True, there are also a few different prusiks out there. Use what ever you are comfortable with.