I know this is a 5 year old video but I might still get an answer to my question, which is; What screws are legal (i.e.- meet code) for 2xX (2x4, 2x6, etc.) framing in Canada? Deck screws are notoriously not legal as they are too brittle. I am a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks for all the great content.
Tried this technique yesterday but found that the first screw in the front of the stud didn’t pull the stud in like yours did so I didn’t need to start the stud a little proud from the plate (It might have been because I stopped before the screw sank too deep, perhaps if I’d gone deeper it might have pulled it in). I also tried two from one side and a third from the other which worked well and left the front face clean. I also tried hammering nails by hand but made such a mess that I went back to screws, way more beginner friendly. Anyway, thanks for giving me some things to try out on this first build.
Very helpful video. Thank you! I am located in Alberta and wondering if deck screws are OK for build a partition wall in a basement by code? I used #8 x 3” Thanks again.
I was always told that up and down vertical is a plumb measurement, not level????? Level is a horizontal measure???? BTW, thanks for the offset screwing technique
Errr...screws are not for framing. Nails are the industry standard for framing due to their sheer strength, screws are good for holding things down (like sheathing) due to their tensile strength.
That depends on the type of screw, structural screws have good sheer strength and good tensile strength along with better resistance to pull out, they are not cheap but considering the cost of lumber they are still a small price for extra holding power.
Toenailing those screws through 2 inches of stud before hitting his bottom plate is reason enough to use 3 inch screws, even if 2 inch works for blocking.
I've been working as a carpenter for about 8 years. I find so much value in your videos as a TEACHER than anything. I know nearly everything you talk about in your videos. You're honestly enjoyable to watch AND it helps me find another way to teach my new guys. I often don't think about some of the things you explain in your videos just because its second nature to me by now. So a huge thanks from me (and unknowingly my crew)
I really like your video series and it's definitely helped me to better my drywall tape work, but on this video I do have a comment to make. When setting your cross piece you should always measure from the bottom or top of the framing to get an accurate distance between your studs rather than measuring from the space needed because almost all wood studs have a bit of a bow in them where they aren't tied in to the plates. If your studs are plumb and square then that distance at the ends will always make the center exactly the same distance. Keep up the good work man.
If you're framing a partial-height partition wall (such as a knee/pony wall) lying on the floor and then raising it into position, would you screw in from the bottom plate into the studs, or would you still toe-in? Is there a strength difference between screwing straight in from bottom & top vs. toeing?
Fantastic video, I’m new to all the DIY and am always trying to learn from channels such as this so my apologies for this long question.I have to frame 2 walls of a basement room and the space is to small to build the entire wall frame and then install it. Additionally my basement floor slopes slightly toward a drain located farther down. So I’m assuming I would have to build the wall as you did by securing the studs one at a time into the top plate and bottom plate? I was hoping to use a framing nailer though to do this, so I have to ask if this would suitable? Also I noticed you secured 3 screws, and I’m imagining it wouldn’t be possible to place the fastener from the outside of the two outer studs given there would be no space to do so. Is there any specific method I should use in this case? Is suitable at all to ‘toe-nail’ all the studs on a 14 ft wall frame?
I’m trying to frame my daughters porch with lattice..with 48” panels..framed with 1”x2” wood slats, but I want the corners to meet perfectly at 45 degree angle..what tool do I need to fasten each corner.? or do you have idea how to attach each corner on the outer edges of the lattice panel..??? Thanks for your video on framing doors and windows..laughed at “ gangsta” method to hold my nail gun..you’re great
Good question. I specifically searched for this video because I'm building a temporary stud wall. So I want to be able to remove it easily. This job doesn't look like that is the case. Screws are more expensive but more solid than nails?
@@mitchgibson3605 Screws are more brittle than nails (they break easier). (Obviously, they hold their spot much better.) Vancouver Carpenter has another video up "nails vs screws" or so that goes through some of the difference and why framing should be done with nails.
What are some good brands for square drive (Robertson screws)? I’m in the US and have only seen a handful. I really like the Robertson drive set up. Torx is ok for lots of torque transmission aka RSS or power lags, but for #8-10 screws i prefer how Robertson’s sit on the bit and HOLD.
This is just the tip that I was looking for, thanks a lot. All the other video's have me assemble the wall before putting it in, which won't work in my setup.
We have a niche in our flat, indoor walls. Ordered a custom made wooden window (for fumes and sound proofing), but a bit unsure on how to install it. I intend to tuck it in with a rubber hammer first (hopefully if fits snug and not loose), then would make a few holes with the drill all the way to the wall (this way the wall hole would match the frame ones perfectly. Just wondering if the wood drill bits will go through the wall. I suppose they would at least pinch it. I can remove the frame and use a proper drill bit for the wall part. I would do this before painting the window. But then I would have to use bigger screws, right (The previous holes were just for guidance). I have to see how it fits first, and maybe sand a bit on the tight parts (before painting)? Does this sound ok, in your opinion? Any help would be great.Thanks
Not related to this, but how do you repair a sagging drywall ceiling? I followed all your great techniques for a new ceiling but the old ceiling from 1959 is sagging. The attic is above it. Please help :(
Run a beam of sufficient size at right angle across the tops of all the ceiling joists,.Leave a gap under the beam equal to the amount of sag you want to eliminate. Now, be sure each ceiling joist is exposed at the beam intersections, and frame a ceiling brace to lift the ceiling up so that the gap closes at each joist. Using either lumber, ply wood, or rafter clips, securely fasten each joist to the support beam above.
I had sheetrock ceiling panels sagging because joists on old house were 24 inch on center. I placed a 2x6 by about 10 inches on floor to spread support. Placed 2x4 vertically on top of 2x6 and ran it up to the ceiling. Used random pieces of wood at random thicknesses between top of 2x4 and sagging sheet rock ceiling to push it up tightly against joists. Bought "fender washers" which are large washers with holes that allow sheet rock screw head to be mostly recessed. Screwed those up wherever sagging was occurring, of course moving the vertical 2x4 around first so the ceiling and joists were snug before setting screws. Primed the washers and screw heads before painting to match. Pull out the old sheet rock ceiling screws where the ceiling had sagged and popped through the screw heads. Super cheap fix and most people will never notice the washers. Before I tried this, a handyman wanted to cut out large sections of the ceiling sheet rock sheets and re-install new ones, then skim with mud, sand, paint. I'm glad I tried my idea first - works like a charm!
I’ve often wondered about Robertson for large wood screws, exterior screws etc. where I’m at in the U.S. it’s usually a choice of: Phillips #2 head, torx T-20 or T-25. Robertson is used as part of combination screw heads on receptacles, or electrical panels.
The problem in the US is that they never adopted Robertson head screws (square head). I would never try framing with Philips head (star) even with an impact driver. They have GRK torn (star) head screws but they are very expensive overkill IMHO. As such, most Americans would be shocked with this approach. For DIY, I strongly recommend using screws as it makes rework super easy. I have not used nails in Canada for many years. Americans close to the Canadian border can just head across to our side of the border and pick up Robertson head screws for a great price.
i have used drywall screws in place of robertson screws for framing. no problem using phillips if you are good with a drill. if you aren’t a roberston wont save you.
Much as it hurts me to admit, GRK's are fantastic. (they're canadian) The best screw manufacture i've found. That said, there are a million options for screws in the US that are far better than robertsons. Pretty much anything with a torx head is going to be better than the equivalent robertson. Torx > Robertson = Posidrive> Philips . Robertson is far better than phillips but's it too has been eclipsed.
@@bobcougar77 I like Torx, but the Robby still is just about as good and has the advantage of being able to hold onto the bit which is handy in tight spaces. Torx tends to roll off the bit unless it's highly magnetic and a small screw. If you go to a box store in Canada, the only Torx you find are GRK's. 95% of the rest are Robertson. One more score for Robertson is the small number of sizes. Torx has 5 times the number of sizes available which can be tough for tool kits stocking.
@@JSDudeca I agree the Robertson screw will seat in the bit better: it's easier for 1handed install. I'm it's overcome by the increased range of angle you can drive a torx bit. You can be pretty far off of true and still zip that screw in without a problem. I've never stripped or snapped a GRK screw. (I've snapped some of the cheaper alternatives).
I'm rather late in responding to this video, but I'm wondering if anyone else has problems with splitting the lumber when toenailing with screws. Even when I move further from the cut end, the wood seems to split. I'm using 3 1/8" GRK's. In some cases, I've resorted to drilling pilot holes--which definitely slows the process.
I always thought that we had to pre drill holes in studs before drilling to avoid wood to split, isn't it right? But if we do so it will take twice the time to finish. SO my question, what screw diameter # is the optimal on 2x4? thank you
not by any means a framing specialist, but i know hes using construction 3" screws, wood splits wont happen on wet/fresh wood, generally all store bought wood will be wet, or if its been exposed to rain during transportation or temporary storage. wood splits do happen a lot in framing but what makes framing strong is quite literally everything, the way you straighten the stud under load and even the drywall will make the whole structure sound. once the wet wood dries in the framing it makes the screws/nails incredibly tight and hard to get out even with a mild split.
@@RR-ty6zz *Here's another helpful hint: if you need to insult someone, try to get your spelling right so you're taken more seriously. YOUR is possessive, as in "I hope YOUR kids never learns to read." On the other hand, YOU'RE is a contraction of YOU ARE, as in "YOU'RE a halfwit."
More framing vids please, such as corners, doors, windows. This one was awesome!
I will as soon as I can. I don't frame very often and all of my upcoming jobs are condos so it will just be basic interior framing.
Ben helped me with my ollies, and now he's gonna help me remodeling the bathroom. Had no idea, what a great surprise.
Thank you for sharing this. I like you explain many things, not assuming that everyone knows everything. Thank you!
This time I will do it manually with the help of Stodoys designs.
I know this is a 5 year old video but I might still get an answer to my question, which is; What screws are legal (i.e.- meet code) for 2xX (2x4, 2x6, etc.) framing in Canada? Deck screws are notoriously not legal as they are too brittle. I am a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks for all the great content.
Just regular zinc coated 3” Robertson. #8
Keep these up, bud! Lots of help!
This saved me on my first framing project, thanks! 🤘
Tried this technique yesterday but found that the first screw in the front of the stud didn’t pull the stud in like yours did so I didn’t need to start the stud a little proud from the plate (It might have been because I stopped before the screw sank too deep, perhaps if I’d gone deeper it might have pulled it in). I also tried two from one side and a third from the other which worked well and left the front face clean. I also tried hammering nails by hand but made such a mess that I went back to screws, way more beginner friendly. Anyway, thanks for giving me some things to try out on this first build.
Subbed, amazing stuff, thank you so much for the time you put into teaching us!
This old house is great for reno.
what do you recommend screw size for 2x4 studs?
What size screws do you use for 2x4's ? Coarse thread?
Very helpful video. Thank you! I am located in Alberta and wondering if deck screws are OK for build a partition wall in a basement by code? I used #8 x 3” Thanks again.
Good stuff!
Thinking of, well more of being made to build a small shed. Can i get away with using screws or should I rent a nail gun?
What size screws do you prefer? I don't really want to nail and don't own a nail gun.
Very helpful-thank you!
Why not use a pnuematic nail gun for framing??
What type of screws u use for 2 by 2 wood?
I was always told that up and down vertical is a plumb measurement, not level????? Level is a horizontal measure???? BTW, thanks for the offset screwing technique
How long are those screws
Pocket screws!!! Buy the Kreg jig!!! NO splitting the end grain. I use it for framing and furniture all the time. VERY STRONG. Buy the Kreg jig!
Empty tool belt for the win 😏
Hell yeah
so where are the "NAIL" guys? insisting that sheer strength isnt good enough...lol
Errr...screws are not for framing. Nails are the industry standard for framing due to their sheer strength, screws are good for holding things down (like sheathing) due to their tensile strength.
That depends on the type of screw, structural screws have good sheer strength and good tensile strength along with better resistance to pull out, they are not cheap but considering the cost of lumber they are still a small price for extra holding power.
your screws are way too long, just use around a 2 inch screw or a pneumatic nailer.
Toenailing those screws through 2 inches of stud before hitting his bottom plate is reason enough to use 3 inch screws, even if 2 inch works for blocking.
What kind of screw you are using? Thanks
I've been working as a carpenter for about 8 years. I find so much value in your videos as a TEACHER than anything. I know nearly everything you talk about in your videos. You're honestly enjoyable to watch AND it helps me find another way to teach my new guys. I often don't think about some of the things you explain in your videos just because its second nature to me by now. So a huge thanks from me (and unknowingly my crew)
I really like your video series and it's definitely helped me to better my drywall tape work, but on this video I do have a comment to make. When setting your cross piece you should always measure from the bottom or top of the framing to get an accurate distance between your studs rather than measuring from the space needed because almost all wood studs have a bit of a bow in them where they aren't tied in to the plates. If your studs are plumb and square then that distance at the ends will always make the center exactly the same distance.
Keep up the good work man.
No music, dumb graphic intro or graphic editing, just to the point!! Definite SUBSCRIBE!
If you're framing a partial-height partition wall (such as a knee/pony wall) lying on the floor and then raising it into position, would you screw in from the bottom plate into the studs, or would you still toe-in? Is there a strength difference between screwing straight in from bottom & top vs. toeing?
"A big 16th" aka 3/32. Nice save on the extra syllable!
Thanks for the upload, Ben. Would really like to see a video of how you hang a door from scratch.
Ben will always be the GOAT 🇺🇲 🇨🇦
what screws were you using for the framing?
I just discovered the Vancouver carpenter. Great tips on practical subjects that I use around the house. Thanks and keep it up!
I bing watched his drywall mudding videos a year ago before starting a couple of home renovation - excellent instructions and tips&
Always great info ! Thx !!
Fantastic video, I’m new to all the DIY and am always trying to learn from channels such as this so my apologies for this long question.I have to frame 2 walls of a basement room and the space is to small to build the entire wall frame and then install it. Additionally my basement floor slopes slightly toward a drain located farther down. So I’m assuming I would have to build the wall as you did by securing the studs one at a time into the top plate and bottom plate? I was hoping to use a framing nailer though to do this, so I have to ask if this would suitable? Also I noticed you secured 3 screws, and I’m imagining it wouldn’t be possible to place the fastener from the outside of the two outer studs given there would be no space to do so. Is there any specific method I should use in this case? Is suitable at all to ‘toe-nail’ all the studs on a 14 ft wall frame?
Nice tips! I’m a 60 year old Gramma trying to put new windows in my trailer!
I never did hear how long is the screws
Thumbs up for the 'strangest corner of the jobsite' close!
A classic VC vid!
he's using 3in screws
1.25” down
Thank you Ben. Yes, I think this quite helpful. God bless!
Umm damn… I’m speechless. Thanx a million
We Done
Thanks mate that is really going to help me with my DIY project. Great instruction video
Subbed!
I’m trying to frame my daughters porch with lattice..with 48” panels..framed with 1”x2” wood slats, but I want the corners to meet perfectly at 45 degree angle..what tool do I need to fasten each corner.? or do you have idea how to attach each corner on the outer edges of the lattice panel..??? Thanks for your video on framing doors and windows..laughed at “ gangsta” method to hold my nail gun..you’re great
Wow, you're the master! Why are you framing with screws?
Good question. I specifically searched for this video because I'm building a temporary stud wall. So I want to be able to remove it easily. This job doesn't look like that is the case. Screws are more expensive but more solid than nails?
@@mitchgibson3605 Screws are more brittle than nails (they break easier). (Obviously, they hold their spot much better.) Vancouver Carpenter has another video up "nails vs screws" or so that goes through some of the difference and why framing should be done with nails.
What size screws are you using??
3"
Ben, Great vid... enjoy your series and the very helpful tips. Could you say "Aaah"... once in a while? ; )
What are some good brands for square drive (Robertson screws)? I’m in the US and have only seen a handful. I really like the Robertson drive set up. Torx is ok for lots of torque transmission aka RSS or power lags, but for #8-10 screws i prefer how Robertson’s sit on the bit and HOLD.
I need to put a frame together soon and I noticed you didn’t drill pilot holes. Is this something I need to do?
This is just the tip that I was looking for, thanks a lot. All the other video's have me assemble the wall before putting it in, which won't work in my setup.
Feather the edges 😂
My last name gets feathered a lot lol!
Stupid question time. What kind of screws should I use? Wood screws I guess?
This time I will do it manually with the help of Woodglut designs.
Holy shit is this that skater dude?!?! Didn't know he was a carpenter too :o
haha watching this and thought, gee he sounds like Ben Degros, even looks like him!
In my first work I always used Woodprix plans.
whose clipping their toenails in the background
Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks
That can't be the strangest corner in the place.
Loved it! 👍🏻 Thanks a ton!!! Just what I needed.
What kind of tool bags do you have?
I've watched about a dozen of your drywall videos - great to finally watch a carpentry one! Thanks for all the great tips.
2:52 shady queen
You're awesome. Thanks, VC. Keep it up!
Thanks man very helpful keep them coming
Thanks for the video ,I'm new at this.
make it with woodprix plans :)
you're a legend, Benjamin.
I grew up in Vancouver BC
This is great! Could you show how to install a window wooden frame onto an indoor wall niche, please. :-)
We have a niche in our flat, indoor walls. Ordered a custom made wooden window (for fumes and sound proofing), but a bit unsure on how to install it. I intend to tuck it in with a rubber hammer first (hopefully if fits snug and not loose), then would make a few holes with the drill all the way to the wall (this way the wall hole would match the frame ones perfectly. Just wondering if the wood drill bits will go through the wall. I suppose they would at least pinch it. I can remove the frame and use a proper drill bit for the wall part. I would do this before painting the window. But then I would have to use bigger screws, right (The previous holes were just for guidance). I have to see how it fits first, and maybe sand a bit on the tight parts (before painting)? Does this sound ok, in your opinion? Any help would be great.Thanks
Perfeto
Are you using multiconstruction screws made for framing.
You can use them for non bearing walls.
Thank you! We use the same driver :)
Boss
Ben, I really enjoy your videos so keep it up. How about a video on repairing cracks above door frames...
Normally that's due to improper cut drywall. Are the cracks directly above one of the sides of door?
very good...
Not related to this, but how do you repair a sagging drywall ceiling? I followed all your great techniques for a new ceiling but the old ceiling from 1959 is sagging. The attic is above it. Please help :(
are the joists sagging ?
Run a beam of sufficient size at right angle across the tops of all the ceiling joists,.Leave a gap under the beam equal to the amount of sag you want to eliminate. Now, be sure each ceiling joist is exposed at the beam intersections, and frame a ceiling brace to lift the ceiling up so that the gap closes at each joist. Using either lumber, ply wood, or rafter clips, securely fasten each joist to the support beam above.
I had sheetrock ceiling panels sagging because joists on old house were 24 inch on center. I placed a 2x6 by about 10 inches on floor to spread support. Placed 2x4 vertically on top of 2x6 and ran it up to the ceiling. Used random pieces of wood at random thicknesses between top of 2x4 and sagging sheet rock ceiling to push it up tightly against joists. Bought "fender washers" which are large washers with holes that allow sheet rock screw head to be mostly recessed. Screwed those up wherever sagging was occurring, of course moving the vertical 2x4 around first so the ceiling and joists were snug before setting screws. Primed the washers and screw heads before painting to match. Pull out the old sheet rock ceiling screws where the ceiling had sagged and popped through the screw heads. Super cheap fix and most people will never notice the washers. Before I tried this, a handyman wanted to cut out large sections of the ceiling sheet rock sheets and re-install new ones, then skim with mud, sand, paint. I'm glad I tried my idea first - works like a charm!
4:40 damn your whole house is bowed!
Chris E is that a bad joke?
Is that 1/4" or 3/8" impact driver?
It's a 1/4" hex drive impact driver, not a 1/4" socket impact driver.
Size of screw you are using?
3" #8 Robertson
I’ve often wondered about Robertson for large wood screws, exterior screws etc. where I’m at in the U.S. it’s usually a choice of: Phillips #2 head, torx T-20 or T-25. Robertson is used as part of combination screw heads on receptacles, or electrical panels.
Also, i assume you meant the screw itself is a number eight. What sizes Robertson?
I like your videos but I gotta be that guy. When something is straight up and down it’s plumb not level
Boy is the stud bowed like you said!! Just look at it from 5:24 !! :) Great video
That's actually distortion from the gopro camera lens. I may have been filming in wide lens. It had maybe 3/16" over 8 feet so not too bad.
Yup phish eye lens from go pro does that
Fish eye bro, cmon
The problem in the US is that they never adopted Robertson head screws (square head). I would never try framing with Philips head (star) even with an impact driver. They have GRK torn (star) head screws but they are very expensive overkill IMHO. As such, most Americans would be shocked with this approach. For DIY, I strongly recommend using screws as it makes rework super easy. I have not used nails in Canada for many years. Americans close to the Canadian border can just head across to our side of the border and pick up Robertson head screws for a great price.
Good call!
i have used drywall screws in place of robertson screws for framing. no problem using phillips if you are good with a drill. if you aren’t a roberston wont save you.
Much as it hurts me to admit, GRK's are fantastic. (they're canadian) The best screw manufacture i've found. That said, there are a million options for screws in the US that are far better than robertsons. Pretty much anything with a torx head is going to be better than the equivalent robertson. Torx > Robertson = Posidrive> Philips . Robertson is far better than phillips but's it too has been eclipsed.
@@bobcougar77 I like Torx, but the Robby still is just about as good and has the advantage of being able to hold onto the bit which is handy in tight spaces. Torx tends to roll off the bit unless it's highly magnetic and a small screw. If you go to a box store in Canada, the only Torx you find are GRK's. 95% of the rest are Robertson. One more score for Robertson is the small number of sizes. Torx has 5 times the number of sizes available which can be tough for tool kits stocking.
@@JSDudeca I agree the Robertson screw will seat in the bit better: it's easier for 1handed install. I'm it's overcome by the increased range of angle you can drive a torx bit. You can be pretty far off of true and still zip that screw in without a problem. I've never stripped or snapped a GRK screw. (I've snapped some of the cheaper alternatives).
Framing nailer is easier and faster
Title: "HOW TO SCREW WOOD FRAMING"
As a carpenter, I’d think you’d know not to frame with screws. 16d, 8d for toenails.
I'm rather late in responding to this video, but I'm wondering if anyone else has problems with splitting the lumber when toenailing with screws. Even when I move further from the cut end, the wood seems to split. I'm using 3 1/8" GRK's. In some cases, I've resorted to drilling pilot holes--which definitely slows the process.
I always thought that we had to pre drill holes in studs before drilling to avoid wood to split, isn't it right? But if we do so it will take twice the time to finish. SO my question, what screw diameter # is the optimal on 2x4? thank you
not by any means a framing specialist, but i know hes using construction 3" screws, wood splits wont happen on wet/fresh wood, generally all store bought wood will be wet, or if its been exposed to rain during transportation or temporary storage. wood splits do happen a lot in framing but what makes framing strong is quite literally everything, the way you straighten the stud under load and even the drywall will make the whole structure sound. once the wet wood dries in the framing it makes the screws/nails incredibly tight and hard to get out even with a mild split.
@@nikankersen7029 thanks for your kind answer.
You do good work and all but way to slow . Faster easier steps would definitely help .
Dude. It's an instructional video. Of course he's not going full throttle.
Jared Emery moron i said faster steps not how fast he is working. Next time read before u act smart
@@RR-ty6zz Here's an idea. How about you make a video showing how much faster you can do it. Make UA-cam great again.
Jared Emery clearly your a moron as i already stated
@@RR-ty6zz *Here's another helpful hint: if you need to insult someone, try to get your spelling right so you're taken more seriously. YOUR is possessive, as in "I hope YOUR kids never learns to read." On the other hand, YOU'RE is a contraction of YOU ARE, as in "YOU'RE a halfwit."