Joey: EVERY single time you fire that thing up, I am transported back in time. Its 2am and people are lining up to race. NOTHING like the sound of a cammed V8 car with long tubes. 👍!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Joey: I relive my teens and twenties every single video. Can't explain to people who don't love cars like we do. DON'T EVER sell that car bro. Thank you , btw 👍.
I told you it would work. Glad you tried it. Worked for me back in the 70's. You'll love it the first time you try it at the track. A little grease will be ok too.
You know it buddy. He used to race hemi super stock. Knows his stuff. Did you see his 1000hp big block vid we did? We look at 2 of his Cuda’s in the start of the vid
Not sure how much help I can provide here with the launch, seems better than previously. Read through a bunch of the comments here today and one observation was really good, Im going to guess that the rear shocks are getting to full extension and forcing a instantaneous upset. Lots of guys here offering advice, really want to see this car get dialed in some day.
Is that a crack in the metal at about the 4 o'clock from the bottom of your bottom shock bolt? I saw it at 8:54 in your video. Great job- love it when the Mopar Boys kick backside.
For Cal Tracs to work their best, in a car like yours, you need 6” of up travel in the front suspension. Minimum of 5”. Measure from the center of the hub to the fender lip at normal ride height. Then jack the front end up until the tires come off the ground, and measure again. Trim the bump stops as needed so that the frame isn’t resting on them at ride height. You will need double adjustable front shocks, as when the car is hopping like yours, it’s from the front suspension coming up too fast and topping out. And in most cases from the rear also separating too quickly and hitting the top of the shock extension. Viking double adjustables are good value.
6 cyl. bars are good for racing but be VERY careful on the street, remember they move BOTH ways. Done it. Also, cut your UPPER bump stop in half, give you more travel. Going too low, you take a chance tearing the bump stop from the metal holder it's molded to on the down stroke when the car is moving, then there's no bump stop! Really love your car
Nice thanks. Was only thinking like 1/2 inch off them or so. Ya I kinda figure the 6 bars on the street not so great, like most things I do to my car lol. Thanks for watching.
The roads around here are far from flat and not very well maintained . Even the Dragstrip has a heck of a dip at about the 1000 foot mark in left lane .
Great video! My Barracuda has the slant bars. You may not want to switch if you’re going to do alot of street cruising. Or give them a try and see what you think. I have some from a Slant 71 swinger if you can’t find any.
Nice bro ya I don’t do a ton of street cruisn, the car seems to be going a certain way lol. I think I have a b line of set but I’ll keep it in mind thanks!
I'd really like to see you mod the shifter with a step for 1st gear similar to 3rd gear so that you have to push the button to go from 2nd back into 1st. You could weld up a step just like the bump for neutral except make it the full length of the 1st gear position.
Glad you made this video! I’m SS springs with pinion snubber and the SS shocks in back. Dead shocks in the front. Not sure what torsion bars. It’s been set up that way since 1969. I get good front end travel on street. Getting to the track this weekend. Curious if it goes up to fast and bounces unloading the rear.
I spoke w/John Calvert about his suspension and about the front suspension and he says the front wheels need to have a minimum of 5" travel at the leave to make the car's suspension work.
Maybe I have said before, that is one fantastic looking car ! I think you are headed in the correct direction on the suspension. I like that you have kept the OE shifter.
Awesome Joe《☆》Nice Shifter mod👍🍺🍕I'll have to remember that if I ever get back to work on my Dart Sport🙏Good luck. Looks like some great advice in the Comments🖖😎☮
I have quite a few chassis buddies and their line is guy I'll spend a million dollars on the back of the car but won't spend a couple hundred bucks on a set of decent shocks for the front of the car got to make both of them work friend of mine learned that the hard way back half his car never got it to work sold the car for half of what he had in it guy put a set of shocks on the front of the car and got it to work great and the car flies now 😁
Quality shocks are some of the best money I ever spent on my 71 Nova. Power is pretty easy to make. Getting it to hook on a poorley prepped track can be a lot of work.
I've been told with high hp engines when doing a burn out with a 727. Not to start off in first, but second. Could blow the sprague exploding the tranny. You might want to investigate that.
You don’t want Finnish burnout in first. Loads sprag and can blow. I got into 1-2 and roll out to not load it up. It is also a bolt in. Thanks for watching
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop : I understand, most of us racing have bolt in sprays- using first is Not suggested . We are regular TDRA racers . Even our slower cars don’t use first and, you would Not be one of the slow cars . Secondly, there is really no need of it, she will spin up faster starting in second for burn out, shift into 3rd , come off line lock . To each their own buddy , you have done a Great Job. Not trying to be a know it all asshat , just trying to help a brother out . Secondly : Fwiw - your past the 90/10 stage by quite a bit of Hp . Example : we have single adjustable coil over in rear, dual adjustable in front , which was great at 720 hp , 3420 lbs, 135-137 60 ft. Just finished at dyno on new billet yesterday , went from 511 to 540 and, 860 ho, 805 tq . Now we have to get dual adjustable rear shocks and either new fronts or, have the calving redone . More hp one needs more chassis control. You need to “ slow down “ the rise of the front end, extension is happening too fast, unloads rear tire . Your sticking the tire issue is at the front end right now, not the rear . Fwiw . Just suggestions from experience because I like sharing, you have worked your ass off . Lastly : you get chassis dialed in correctly , you will be surprised how much faster she is, 60’s will drop - a LOT . Again, NOT criticizing AT ALL . Just sharing and, hey, for free !! Grin. Want nothing but the best for you, see you make rounds . Golden rule : it’s not the cars with the most power that win races at these levels, it’s the cars that are set up the best to make the power work for them . Suggest a strange or Viking double adjustable front shock, drop over a tenth off 60 ft first pass . But it does SUCK for the budget !! Sigh . Another thing you might try while saving for shocks is to cut down or, remove the upper bump stops , this allows for more Travel / body rise . As that rise takes “ time “ , it will allow rear tire to stay planted a tad longer and take out some of the porpoising . Lastly : Look on you tube for slick pressures and porpoising . General rule of thumb: You want to run as high a rear tires pressure as you can and still plant the tire . If track will hold 12, we run 12, if it will hold 14 , we would run that . More air in tire is always the fastest tire so, one is always trying to find that sweet spot . If we are sticking pretty good at 12 psi , I’m going to try one pass at 13.5 just to see if we can stick it . If we can, it’s worth about .02 on the big end . More stable getting off throttle as well . You have built a really beautiful hotrod bud , building a great channel as well. Keep up the good work/ making content . Hope to see you getting to that google place where the fun actually “ pays for the parts “ all the time!! Blessings buddy, blessings .
@@fr.rustymatheny7707 thanks man and thanks for the tips, ya a shock up grade may be in the future for sure and I did show and talk about cutting the bumps down in this vid, gotta keep working the combo! Thanks for watching
Lol, you said kick Chevy and Ford butts but i only see you racing Chrysler's and Chevy's 😁 . I like that shifter mod though. I have the B&M Pro-stick - same principle. First time I ran the manual v-body i had my hand on the shifter and I went to 2nd on the launch. Had to learn to keep my hand off the shifter which is still a little irritating.
Getting closer to perfection Joe. You are persistent in your quest for repeatable launches. I like the modification to the OEM shifter for a firmer 1-2. That could lead to hole shot wins!
We have always used the B&M quick sliver ratchet shifter and it has worked amazing for us I highly recommend it. We have it in both of our Darts and our Roadrunner
Good vid Joe. The car sits really nice. Being comfortable with your sequence ie. line loc, trans brake, shifter is key!. It helps you zone in on your reaction time which along with running a consistent E.T. are the only two things that really matter in a bracket car. All the best...
Although this car needs suspension work, its literally clawing, screaming, pleading for a PROTRANS and a killer converter and a 30x9 radial slick, then and only then low 1.3 60 foots should come with a 400 inch aftermarket headed engine, really it should leave harder than low 1.3s, but the track looks sketchy. For anyone who would disagree listen to it go down the track, takes 200 feet before the engine comes on.
Bill from “ the old man’s garage “ recent mentioned this very issue bunny hopping, if your front suspension is too lose it will immediately hit you bump stops and unload your chassis . Maybe try to change your shocks to a stiffer type , check out bills video. I’m not sure which one but it was a recent video and does go into this issue specifically
As you've mentioned you're stuck with how much you can drop the front end. The secret to the Cal Tracs working is front end travel. Once I set my Camaro up with low friction ball joints and dropped it down along with removing the upper bump stops I was able to achieve 6 inches of travel. That completely changed how the car launched, going from a little hop to a nice arcing wheelie, even though I was running high 10's at the time. Note: at this point it was not a street car as it sat on the lower bumpers static. Every time I tried to tighten front shocks up it killed the 60' times and induced traction issues. Zero preload in the bars on flat ground, you in the car, and the G/F (wife) doing the adjusting is a good starting point. Make sure you have enough REAR shock travel so when it extends on the launch it isn't topping out the shocks and unloading the slicks. Keep at it, great channel!
I hope you get the suspension figured out. Technology has advanced so much with so many options. I hope you find what works for you car. Great video. 👍
Ya steer pulls are sweet but cops around here are ruthless. They take your car and license for any sort of street racing. They have a history of using peoples social media against them. So I cruise in the street and race at the track 😉
Still working on the suspension? I just saw a video on Uncle Tony's Garage you tube channel that explains a lot about your problem, a must see! hope this helps.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Yea all about weight transfer it was pretty good. It was his last video, posted 18 hours ago i saw it this morning, right up your ally
practice before you race it??, i am thinking it may go straight to second gear while in first. I wanted to ask you do you have a transmission temperature gauge in car? or auxiliary fan on transmission cooler? and if you drive car to track then a 4500 stall converter seems to be too much heat in cars transmission before you race it
2-3 gear burnout just a haze of smoke and get out.....shave top bump stop 1/2 inch and add 1/2 spacer under the body on the upper shock mount. Take off the lower bump stops at the track just to eliminate that issue and lower the car to see if it helps. I don't run them myself but its a risk if ya ever break a torsion bar. If ya can get the 6 cylinder bars that would be best. You can always crank the nose up when not racing.
Well there was a race this weekend and I was going to go but, my wife and I welcomed our first child into the world early instead. Lol. I’ll be at the next one
If you lowered the front end more be sure to check the front end alignment it's probably ok but you know if it can go wrong it will. I would not lower it anymore than what it is but like others have said and I have done it as well put slant 6 torsion bars in it and it will lift faster. Nice ride now I have to build another one because of you LOL.
I like the idea of modifying the OEM shifter. Gives the whole car's interior and factory feel. I noticed you have Calvert bars on the back. Have you tried adjusting them? Sorting out a new combo is always challenging.
My CalTrac bars and front end was always my best adjustments. His 1st track day he was jumping/climbing his sidewalls instead of walking up them-to radical of transfer. His changing of launch RPMs and adjusting helped with the climbing of his sidewalls, but still needs that front to carry longer as you commented.
If you want to go quick with an A body, just clone the LO23 suspension of today’s SS Hemi class You’ve got enough hp for a 9sec 1/4 mile passes Watching your videos I can see 1.5 seconds of wasted suspense movement just to start
I ran that tranmission arrangement for quite a number of years in my past street race days. EFFECTIVE!
Joey: EVERY single time you fire that thing up, I am transported back in time. Its 2am and people are lining up to race. NOTHING like the sound of a cammed V8 car with long tubes. 👍!
Hell ya brother!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Joey: I relive my teens and twenties every single video. Can't explain to people who don't love cars like we do. DON'T EVER sell that car bro. Thank you , btw 👍.
I told you it would work. Glad you tried it. Worked for me back in the 70's. You'll love it the first time you try it at the track. A little grease will be ok too.
Hi, don't forget to get the car aligned after changing the torsion bars. Great videos, 👍!!
Brings back some memories had 1970 dart 440 I could get high 13's .I am sure that if we had the tires of today it would have done 12's...love your car
Old school suspension tricks - I think your bud Pete is worth his weight in gold
You know it buddy. He used to race hemi super stock. Knows his stuff. Did you see his 1000hp big block vid we did? We look at 2 of his Cuda’s in the start of the vid
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop incredible to have that available and that he’s such a great guy, thank you for bringing us along!
Not sure how much help I can provide here with the launch, seems better than previously. Read through a bunch of the comments here today and one observation was really good, Im going to guess that the rear shocks are getting to full extension and forcing a instantaneous upset. Lots of guys here offering advice, really want to see this car get dialed in some day.
Is that a crack in the metal at about the 4 o'clock from the bottom of your bottom shock bolt? I saw it at 8:54 in your video. Great job- love it when the Mopar Boys kick backside.
Oh I’ll take a look, thanks
I had the bump stops at the same gap clearance you have on my old Demon and it would bottom out driving so I shaved them down. Your car sounds great
I think it's good that you're retaining the original shifter.
I expect your shifter mod is going to make life a lot easier at the track. I look forward to your report.
Love that car those rims and tires look amazing
The old Dodge Plymouth Scat Pack tuning tips from the 1970's mentioned using 6 cylinder torsion bars.
i really like that shifter mod you did...looks like that should work good for ya
Love your Dart
Great video and a beautiful car!!
For Cal Tracs to work their best, in a car like yours, you need 6” of up travel in the front suspension. Minimum of 5”. Measure from the center of the hub to the fender lip at normal ride height. Then jack the front end up until the tires come off the ground, and measure again.
Trim the bump stops as needed so that the frame isn’t resting on them at ride height.
You will need double adjustable front shocks, as when the car is hopping like yours, it’s from the front suspension coming up too fast and topping out.
And in most cases from the rear also separating too quickly and hitting the top of the shock extension.
Viking double adjustables are good value.
Yep, dead on. I suggested longer travel shocks, because that’s what it looks like to me.
Your car is beautiful man
6 cyl. bars are good for racing but be VERY careful on the street, remember they move BOTH ways. Done it. Also, cut your UPPER bump stop in half, give you more travel. Going too low, you take a chance tearing the bump stop from the metal holder it's molded to on the down stroke when the car is moving, then there's no bump stop! Really love your car
Nice thanks. Was only thinking like 1/2 inch off them or so. Ya I kinda figure the 6 bars on the street not so great, like most things I do to my car lol. Thanks for watching.
I run the 6 cylinder bars on the street and have no problems .
@@darwinfoster7420 good to know!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop They can be good . . but not all roads are flat :)
The roads around here are far from flat and not very well maintained . Even the Dragstrip has a heck of a dip at about the 1000 foot mark in left lane .
Great video! My Barracuda has the slant bars. You may not want to switch if you’re going to do alot of street cruising. Or give them a try and see what you think. I have some from a Slant 71 swinger if you can’t find any.
Nice bro ya I don’t do a ton of street cruisn, the car seems to be going a certain way lol. I think I have a b line of set but I’ll keep it in mind thanks!
I've been anxious for your nxt video...cool..! Ckg out now
👍🏻👍🏻
cool man hope your car gets nice and tuned
Nice man good work!
KEEP 'EM COMING , been watching from the start , new your dad back in the day, good to see him bring his ranch out * Enjoy n have fun *
Right on man! Gunna try to get dad out once more this year, Thanks for watching come say hi if you see me out!
You have 73 and up spool mount k member with disk brakes nice man
Yeah, maan! Cool shifter mod.
I'd really like to see you mod the shifter with a step for 1st gear similar to 3rd gear so that you have to push the button to go from 2nd back into 1st. You could weld up a step just like the bump for neutral except make it the full length of the 1st gear position.
Great job brother!
Make sure you drive the car around a bit , to let the suspension settle . Keep chipping away at it , your car is AWESOME 😎
Glad you made this video! I’m SS springs with pinion snubber and the SS shocks in back. Dead shocks in the front. Not sure what torsion bars. It’s been set up that way since 1969.
I get good front end travel on street. Getting to the track this weekend. Curious if it goes up to fast and bounces unloading the rear.
I spoke w/John Calvert about his suspension and about the front suspension and he says the front wheels need to have a minimum of 5" travel at the leave to make the car's suspension work.
Glad it worked for you. Brings back memories for me watching your channel. Keep doing what you're doing.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Maybe I have said before, that is one fantastic looking car ! I think you are headed in the correct direction on the suspension. I like that you have kept the OE shifter.
Great job on the shifter mod, nice and easy change that will ensure consistency on your passes. Beast of a car.
That’s a Pretty slick shifter mod! Something simple that’s easy to over look.
Joe call john calvert he will tell you were you need to make your adjustments no guessing and final pics off your final grind on shifter thx john.
Awesome Joe《☆》Nice Shifter mod👍🍺🍕I'll have to remember that if I ever get back to work on my Dart Sport🙏Good luck. Looks like some great advice in the Comments🖖😎☮
Had my '66 Falcon SC with low all the way back..nifty..
I have quite a few chassis buddies and their line is guy I'll spend a million dollars on the back of the car but won't spend a couple hundred bucks on a set of decent shocks for the front of the car got to make both of them work friend of mine learned that the hard way back half his car never got it to work sold the car for half of what he had in it guy put a set of shocks on the front of the car and got it to work great and the car flies now 😁
Quality shocks are some of the best money I ever spent on my 71 Nova. Power is pretty easy to make. Getting it to hook on a poorley prepped track can be a lot of work.
I've been told with high hp engines when doing a burn out with a 727. Not to start off in first, but second. Could blow the sprague exploding the tranny. You might want to investigate that.
You don’t want Finnish burnout in first. Loads sprag and can blow. I got into 1-2 and roll out to not load it up. It is also a bolt in. Thanks for watching
Right on, you have it right. Just seen them go bang if over loaded in first. A friend blew one up this spring. his foot got a good whack.
Suggestion: Dont use first gear at all for burnout- really hard on the sprag.
Agreed. I was about to say the same. Always go from 2-3 on your burnouts. Better tire speed anyway.
Only hard on the sprag when it hooks up. That car has plenty of power to do a second gear burnout anyway.
I got from 1-2 in burnout and roll out of it so it’s not hard on the sprag. And I do have a bolt in for safety.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop : I understand, most of us racing have bolt in sprays- using first is Not suggested .
We are regular TDRA racers .
Even our slower cars don’t use first and, you would Not be one of the slow cars .
Secondly, there is really no need of it, she will spin up faster starting in second for burn out, shift into 3rd , come off line lock .
To each their own buddy , you have done a Great Job.
Not trying to be a know it all asshat , just trying to help a brother out .
Secondly : Fwiw - your past the 90/10 stage by quite a bit of Hp .
Example : we have single adjustable coil over in rear, dual adjustable in front , which was great at 720 hp , 3420 lbs, 135-137 60 ft.
Just finished at dyno on new billet yesterday , went from 511 to 540 and, 860 ho, 805 tq .
Now we have to get dual adjustable rear shocks and either new fronts or, have the calving redone .
More hp one needs more chassis control.
You need to “ slow down “ the rise of the front end, extension is happening too fast, unloads rear tire .
Your sticking the tire issue is at the front end right now, not the rear .
Fwiw .
Just suggestions from experience because I like sharing, you have worked your ass off .
Lastly : you get chassis dialed in correctly , you will be surprised how much faster she is, 60’s will drop - a LOT .
Again, NOT criticizing AT ALL .
Just sharing and, hey, for free !!
Grin.
Want nothing but the best for you, see you make rounds .
Golden rule : it’s not the cars with the most power that win races at these levels, it’s the cars that are set up the best to make the power work for them .
Suggest a strange or Viking double adjustable front shock, drop over a tenth off 60 ft first pass .
But it does SUCK for the budget !!
Sigh .
Another thing you might try while saving for shocks is to cut down or, remove the upper bump stops , this allows for more Travel / body rise .
As that rise takes “ time “ , it will allow rear tire to stay planted a tad longer and take out some of the porpoising .
Lastly : Look on you tube for slick pressures and porpoising .
General rule of thumb:
You want to run as high a rear tires pressure as you can and still plant the tire .
If track will hold 12, we run 12, if it will hold 14 , we would run that .
More air in tire is always the fastest tire so, one is always trying to find that sweet spot .
If we are sticking pretty good at 12 psi , I’m going to try one pass at 13.5 just to see if we can stick it .
If we can, it’s worth about .02 on the big end .
More stable getting off throttle as well .
You have built a really beautiful hotrod bud , building a great channel as well.
Keep up the good work/ making content .
Hope to see you getting to that google place where the fun actually “ pays for the parts “ all the time!!
Blessings buddy, blessings .
@@fr.rustymatheny7707 thanks man and thanks for the tips, ya a shock up grade may be in the future for sure and I did show and talk about cutting the bumps down in this vid, gotta keep working the combo! Thanks for watching
Lol, you said kick Chevy and Ford butts but i only see you racing Chrysler's and Chevy's 😁 . I like that shifter mod though. I have the B&M Pro-stick - same principle. First time I ran the manual v-body i had my hand on the shifter and I went to 2nd on the launch. Had to learn to keep my hand off the shifter which is still a little irritating.
Getting closer to perfection Joe. You are persistent in your quest for repeatable launches. I like the modification to the OEM shifter for a firmer 1-2. That could lead to hole shot wins!
Thansk bud! I hope so!
We have always used the B&M quick sliver ratchet shifter and it has worked amazing for us I highly recommend it. We have it in both of our Darts and our Roadrunner
Good vid Joe. The car sits really nice. Being comfortable with your sequence ie. line loc, trans brake, shifter is key!. It helps you zone in on your reaction time which along with running a consistent E.T. are the only two things that really matter in a bracket car. All the best...
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Can you no longer get the Mopar performance drag torsion bars? I have them, they are smaller than slant.
Although this car needs suspension work, its literally clawing, screaming, pleading for a PROTRANS and a killer converter and a 30x9 radial slick, then and only then low 1.3 60 foots should come with a 400 inch aftermarket headed engine, really it should leave harder than low 1.3s, but the track looks sketchy. For anyone who would disagree listen to it go down the track, takes 200 feet before the engine comes on.
Bill from “ the old man’s garage “ recent mentioned this very issue bunny hopping, if your front suspension is too lose it will immediately hit you bump stops and unload your chassis . Maybe try to change your shocks to a stiffer type , check out bills video. I’m not sure which one but it was a recent video and does go into this issue specifically
As you've mentioned you're stuck with how much you can drop the front end. The secret to the Cal Tracs working is front end travel.
Once I set my Camaro up with low friction ball joints and dropped it down along with removing the upper bump stops I was able to achieve 6 inches of travel. That completely changed how the car launched, going from a little hop to a nice arcing wheelie, even though I was running high 10's at the time. Note: at this point it was not a street car as it sat on the lower bumpers static.
Every time I tried to tighten front shocks up it killed the 60' times and induced traction issues.
Zero preload in the bars on flat ground, you in the car, and the G/F (wife) doing the adjusting is a good starting point. Make sure you have enough REAR shock travel so when it extends on the launch it isn't topping out the shocks and unloading the slicks.
Keep at it, great channel!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I hope you get the suspension figured out. Technology has advanced so much with so many options. I hope you find what works for you car. Great video. 👍
The slant six set-up sounds like a great idea since you reduced so much front weight...that Dana chrome cover looks 👌
You gotta do some street pulls I've been dying to see you do some, also spanking some imports on the street would be badass
Ya steer pulls are sweet but cops around here are ruthless. They take your car and license for any sort of street racing. They have a history of using peoples social media against them. So I cruise in the street and race at the track 😉
Still working on the suspension? I just saw a video on Uncle Tony's Garage you tube channel that explains a lot about your problem, a must see! hope this helps.
Ohhhh ya I follow him as well he has been doing lots on weight and such was it about transfer? What episode?
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Yea all about weight transfer it was pretty good. It was his last video, posted 18 hours ago i saw it this morning, right up your ally
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop his last one, just posted 18 hours ago it was pretty good, soon as i saw i thought of your car. hope this helps
practice before you race it??, i am thinking it may go straight to second gear while in first. I wanted to ask you do you have a transmission temperature gauge in car? or auxiliary fan on transmission cooler? and if you drive car to track then a 4500 stall converter seems to be too much heat in cars transmission before you race it
2-3 gear burnout just a haze of smoke and get out.....shave top bump stop 1/2 inch and add 1/2 spacer under the body on the upper shock mount. Take off the lower bump stops at the track just to eliminate that issue and lower the car to see if it helps. I don't run them myself but its a risk if ya ever break a torsion bar. If ya can get the 6 cylinder bars that would be best. You can always crank the nose up when not racing.
The shifter mod was probably long overdue. It's just not made to shift backwards! I'm anxious to see if the suspension mods help as well. Sweet mopar!
are you using a bolt in cope racing sprag ?
Like what you did with the shifter
Any race action?
Well there was a race this weekend and I was going to go but, my wife and I welcomed our first child into the world early instead. Lol. I’ll be at the next one
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Congrats Guys! More pit crew.Lol!
100% on the slant 6 torsion bars. But I think the rear might still be a bit stiff...???
If you lowered the front end more be sure to check the front end alignment it's probably ok but you know if it can go wrong it will. I would not lower it anymore than what it is but like others have said and I have done it as well put slant 6 torsion bars in it and it will lift faster. Nice ride now I have to build another one because of you LOL.
🥝✔️
The car looks good where you have it right now comma I would try that before making it any lower
I like the idea of modifying the OEM shifter. Gives the whole car's interior and factory feel. I noticed you have Calvert bars on the back. Have you tried adjusting them? Sorting out a new combo is always challenging.
My CalTrac bars and front end was always my best adjustments. His 1st track day he was jumping/climbing his sidewalls instead of walking up them-to radical of transfer. His changing of launch RPMs and adjusting helped with the climbing of his sidewalls, but still needs that front to carry longer as you commented.
If you want to go quick with an A body, just clone the LO23 suspension of today’s SS Hemi class
You’ve got enough hp for a 9sec 1/4 mile passes
Watching your videos I can see 1.5 seconds of wasted suspense movement just to start
It's more like a straight line shifter
Damm that thing sounds Bad as hell