Kinda confused by the handstarting in cylinder head then torqueing in tool. So I had a cylinder that when the plug was hand started into the cylinder the mark landed at 9oclock I cant just put it in the tool and torque to 18ft.lbs as it would not put the mark to 3 or 6clock
Ok Brian you are absolutely right it is a little confusing at first, I know I was until I caught on to the concept. I will try to walk you through this. Not every plug out of the box works and gets indexed to the proper cylinder right off the bat. For the video it just happened perfectly. And remember the numbers I marked on the tool in marker were for my specific motor, you will have to find those numbers on your own first before you can just pull to them. So in the video I said the ngk would torque at 3/4 way around and the autolight would torque at 1/2 way. For starters my suggestion would be take a new ngk plug mark the ground strap and hand thread it into each cyl. Note the cylinders that the new plug is in and if it sits in some cylinders say at roughly 2-3 o'clock you know torquing it to 18 lb-ft will net you 11- 12 o'clock in the tool. This will give you the approximate "straight up" location of the strap. Other plugs may hand tighten to other degrees which is fine, you can always go a little tighter to make them work or a little looser because you know they will have to get tightened into the heads. Say hand tight in the head gives you 2 o'clock on cyl. #1 remove the plug hand tighten it in the tool note the number in the tool, torque to 18 lb-ft now note the new number on the tool. This new torqued number is the number you can now make permanent to pull to every time for cyl.#1. The hand tight number I said to note first is also important, because you can start with a new plug thread it into the tool and if it comes up with what cyl#1 was before you torqued it then you know you'll have a plug for #1 cyl. Do this same process for all the holes. It is a lot of work at first to get your numbers but once your numbers are sorted out you can pull to those numbers all the time to get the plug indexed. You will run through many plugs to get all eight correct that you need, sometimes I may have to go through 12 plugs to get a set of 8 but that is fine because the other plugs are good for other holes so I just make the sets I need. With the nitrous I go through a lot of plugs so I know I have many extra #1's, 8's and others. Thanks for the question and I hope this helps you out, once you get the hang of it you will wounder how you did this before without it.
So pausing at 2:07. If you had a new box of 8 NGK plugs (using the 45degree concept). You would hand tighten into the tool. If they landed on 6 hand tight they would be for cylinders 2,4,5,7. Landing on 7/8 would be for cylinder 3,6. Landing on 4/5 would be cylinder 1. and landing on 2 would be cylinder 8. Do you always torque to 18 or do you go a little higher or lower to achieve the cylinder needed?
4👍's up thanks again for taking us all along with you for the great show 😊
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Thanks Scott
Kinda confused by the handstarting in cylinder head then torqueing in tool. So I had a cylinder that when the plug was hand started into the cylinder the mark landed at 9oclock I cant just put it in the tool and torque to 18ft.lbs as it would not put the mark to 3 or 6clock
Ok Brian you are absolutely right it is a little confusing at first, I know I was until I caught on to the concept. I will try to walk you through this. Not every plug out of the box works and gets indexed to the proper cylinder right off the bat. For the video it just happened perfectly. And remember the numbers I marked on the tool in marker were for my specific motor, you will have to find those numbers on your own first before you can just pull to them. So in the video I said the ngk would torque at 3/4 way around and the autolight would torque at 1/2 way. For starters my suggestion would be take a new ngk plug mark the ground strap and hand thread it into each cyl. Note the cylinders that the new plug is in and if it sits in some cylinders say at roughly 2-3 o'clock you know torquing it to 18 lb-ft will net you 11- 12 o'clock in the tool. This will give you the approximate "straight up" location of the strap. Other plugs may hand tighten to other degrees which is fine, you can always go a little tighter to make them work or a little looser because you know they will have to get tightened into the heads. Say hand tight in the head gives you 2 o'clock on cyl. #1 remove the plug hand tighten it in the tool note the number in the tool, torque to 18 lb-ft now note the new number on the tool. This new torqued number is the number you can now make permanent to pull to every time for cyl.#1. The hand tight number I said to note first is also important, because you can start with a new plug thread it into the tool and if it comes up with what cyl#1 was before you torqued it then you know you'll have a plug for #1 cyl. Do this same process for all the holes. It is a lot of work at first to get your numbers but once your numbers are sorted out you can pull to those numbers all the time to get the plug indexed. You will run through many plugs to get all eight correct that you need, sometimes I may have to go through 12 plugs to get a set of 8 but that is fine because the other plugs are good for other holes so I just make the sets I need. With the nitrous I go through a lot of plugs so I know I have many extra #1's, 8's and others.
Thanks for the question and I hope this helps you out, once you get the hang of it you will wounder how you did this before without it.
So pausing at 2:07. If you had a new box of 8 NGK plugs (using the 45degree concept). You would hand tighten into the tool. If they landed on 6 hand tight they would be for cylinders 2,4,5,7. Landing on 7/8 would be for cylinder 3,6. Landing on 4/5 would be cylinder 1. and landing on 2 would be cylinder 8. Do you always torque to 18 or do you go a little higher or lower to achieve the cylinder needed?
Your right sometimes a little more and some a little less just depends on what the head wants.