Great job and another great video!! The way we used to pack bearings was to heat the grease up in a double boiler, sounds fancy but it was just an old metal grease can stood in a pan full of water on a hotplate, then dunk the bearing in and the grease would get into every nook and cranny of the bearing and solidify.
A local scrap yard here in illinois that I like to shop at got in a 5000 hyster with air tires, I was able to pick it up for 500 bucks. I had to fix the brakes and 2 of the mast cylinder, I machined a 2 inch snapon socket so it would fit the gland nuts, they had 4 rather small notches in them, I guess it could be called a spanner socket. Seemed kinda sacrilegious to mill on a snapon socket but I had 2 of them. Your right on how handy a forklift is, we had one just like it where I worked, I made a bracket that bolted to the forks and I was able to pull the booms apart by myself on the bucket trucks to replace all the hydraulic hoses.
Nice work Wes, I hope you put grease between the lips on that seal, stops the outer dust seal lip from burning and failing. Would also suggest that oil be applied to inner and outer bearing races before pressing, stops any chance of metal pick up. From 40 years as a mechanical fitter.
Anytime I do maintenance on my equipment, especially overhauls and then I start them up, I feel like the thing that I worked on has big smile on its face because it got some care. Even if you just do the basics, it will go a long ways toward saving a ton of money in the long run. And besides, who doesn't want to get a smile out of their equipment?
I've used Fram oil filters for years on my cars. Never had a problem, but also always changed oil every 3-5K miles. Used STP filters on an '06 Sonata for ten years; no problems. Giving WIX a try on the '00 Dodge and will probably use a factory filter when I do the first oil change on my new Mazda. My propane heater dumps a ton of humidity into the air. The propane may very well be the oil/water problem.
I don't own a Clark. I have a Toyota. Sat outside in Chicago for 5 years because the steering is shot. Finally got it running. I changed both inching and main master cylinders(totally guessed because I can't find the Vin number). One of the drive wheels spin. The other is seized. Been trying to remove the wheel. Pita. I'm going to get that wheel off. Then maybe I can figure out what parts I need to acquire to get it functioning again. I'm not a forklift guy. With that being said, I did operate one for 2 continuous years. These videos give me some hope. And you got another hanger on.
You aren't kidding! The most abused thing I ever saw was a yard truck we had for moving trailers at a shop where I worked. Old International with a 345 gas engine. Oil just poured out of it while it was running. The glass was broken out of the driver side and the latch never worked, so we covered the seat with a tarp and had a rubber strap to hold the door shut. Air compressor never worked, so you had to fill the air tanks with shop air before hooking a trailer. But you had to be quick because the 5th wheel release was pneumatic, so if you lost your air you could not drop the trailer. You could not slip the clutch in reverse or the aux transmission would drop into some phantom gear and you had to pull forward to get it back to normal. We poured so much ether into the carb to get it started in winter that no one even put the air cleaner back on. That was one tough old truck!
Same here, my job has a forklift that is probably close to my age (27). It's abused everyday. The only maintenance that ever gets done it's when something breaks. Which isn't often. It really makes me wonder how long a forklift will last if it isn't abused and properly maintained. My guess is indefinitely....
Wes, the motor mount is upside down, your dad tought you well on bearing packing, you can take a grease needle (used to grease sealed bearings ) and pack it guicker and not have cleanup to do. There is a better pulley seal that has the rubber seal and a felt dust seal on the pulley side, also there never was a gasket on the steer hub caps. You do very good work, I enjoy watching someone that does good work.
Always interesting, because I learn something. Propane creating more water in the oil would make sense, because it has more hydrogen relative to carbon than diesel or gasoline. It's a cleaner fuel as far as CO2 emissions, but I never thought of water emissions as a problem!
Wes, a very good video, one minor point. Federal-Mogul was never owned by Timkin. Rather a couple of years ago it was purchased by Tenneco, from Carl Ichan.
One benefit to electric forklifts is that they are a lot less likely to leak oil. It´s really only the hydraulic system that has the capacity to do so, since the motor does´t have any oil in it. They don´t leak coolant either, since no combustion occurs that needs cooling. The lead battery is also usually pretty heavy, which is mostly a plus for a forklift.
She looks to be identical to the ones I had when I was running a small aerospace job shop this machine would go into the warehouse retrieve or place back raw materials and tooling for upcoming or finished jobs it also did well removing pallets from box trucks and trailers because it is narrow enough to maneuver it also got into turning sharp to place pallets of raw stock in front of the CNC milling machines and lastly she has a single great trick, you could lift a human up to change the sodium light bulbs add or repair an air line of course we only used the safest methods for human lifting HAHA. You brought back memories of the older years 1978/79 through 1993/1998 we operated this machine type as well as the Clark dual front tire WIDE heavy weight material handling machines even with the rotating trunnion front end (great chip bin dumper) on it. Thank you.
@Bill Carpenter Exact same line (6.19) that brought me here and found your comment...Don't hear Wes swear very often, but these forklift jobs seem to bring out the best in him..lol😂👍
At work when I started there in 1975 we had a 5 ton Hyster fork lift propane and manual shift 4 Cyl. Continental Engine. The engine has never been out. The transmission was reworked back in 1994 It was well used when they bought it and belonged to a Transport Company. This Hyster is still going. Used every day. We check and change oil and tune it up
We had Clark's at the vegetable company I worked for I drove forklift and clamp trucks! They could do a lot of work , if maintained properly! They were slower than some of the others, but you never felt like your load was too much for them! When I was haul loads from up front ,way back to the back of the warehouse , was along haul,and by the time you got back to the line you had a load ready! I never liked it when the case stacker went down !
Gases when evaporate/vaporize ,like the LPG here, pull heat from the ambient temp,and condensate its moisture. On dragsters and whatever is running on alcohol or methanol,they use a vacuum pump to pull moisture out of the cranckcase,so oil. The fuel under the blowby form,byproduct of those fuels combustion being water ,condensate in the cranckcase and deteriorates the oil. You could run an electric vacuum pump also and simply pull vacuum from the cranckcase. You could also circulate fresh air through the whole cranck case through a breather using an air pump,like the ones used to send air in the exhaust during cold starts. There are a lot of them on VW as i know.
Much better test drive video than with the rollback. Sir, please keep up the great work and video posts. Much respect from a fellow machinist/fabricator/engineer.
My take away from this is, you can't go wrong buying a Clark forklift if parts are available and cheap. Thanks for this video it gives me an insight repairing a forklift.
Awesome stuff, man! New subscriber here and really liking what I'm seeing and hearing...no oil on ground - no oil in engine...4-wheeled oil leak....Bwahaha LMAO love it!
top job man, but not fore me animore , mechanic sins 20 years old, now i am 67, and every muscle and bone is cracking, love to see it stil, brings me a litle bit in the mood, same thing like enduro bike loved it now i love to see it, i had a time buzy with 1/8 rc racing cars, delta, assosiate and serpent, i like the technics, go on wes ,...love it.
Lovely video... takes me back to my time as a Clark field service engineer, 7 years on the road doing all manner of jobs. Everything from regular servicing to engine/ transmission overhauls on engine powered trucks up to 20 ton container lifters. That truck was a C50 in the UK, motor was a Teledyne Continental 4 pot flat head side valve - rock solid unit only ever had 1 with a blown head gasket. Handbrakes are a steward to replace on this model - engine out job as they are in the bell housing on the transmission. Later C500 had external Bendix drum brake off a transmission lay shaft. if you loose the transmission on any clark FT with a powershift transmission, check the inching spring in the transmission control cover hasn't broken, a regular job back then. Steward to get to but an easy diagnosis.
I actually disabled the inching valve in this machine. We had a Toyota lift at a place I used to work and it did not have an inching valve. I preferred the way the Toyota worked, so I modified the Clark to be the same. I just have to watch that I don't rev the engine with my foot on the brake. But, I'm the only operator, so it's not a concern.
Thanks Wes, for some reason it is a lot more fun to sit on the couch and watch you wrench than to actually do it myself. Unfortunately I'm going to be forced soon, my little hyster is leaving a bigger and bigger puddle of hydraulic oil behind to mark it's territory.
have used Rock auto a number of times, with no problems. Only draw back, have to know just what you need and be able to wait a couple of days for items needed.
ALWAYS raise garage door all the way! As a garage door repairman, most of my commercial calls were because door was hit by forklift mast when coming back in. Raise it just enough to get out, come back with a raised load...ka-ching for me! Can't sell just one ore two lower panels, because they won't break up garage door panel set to me, buy the whole door or nothing.
If Engine Mains Bearings are worn and crankshaft has any movement up an down a new seal is not going to stop the leak, all you can do is put a new seal in and cross your fingers. Normally pulling the counter weight and radiator is the way to replace the front seal. removing the big bolt at bottom of counter , and running a chain down through the two holes on top of counter weight and picking up with another forklift. The Engine is a Continental 163 I worked for Clark for many years they are very well built.
Never saw that gimmick for bearing packing before. Nice. The place I work at recently had the forklift rental company set up a permanent repair shed at the loading dock with fancy sound deadening walls hung from the ceiling. There are usually 36-60 machines on the job at any given time. When big shows come in, some of the forklifts are huge.
I always marvel at the number of forklifts at the McCormick Center in Chicago. When they have IMTS there I bet they have over 200 lifts and almost as many man lifts standing by to move machines or pull wiring.
Wes, that fix will make it go 5 MPH faster. Daddy was right, but your suppose to grab a hand full of grease right out of the bucket first, saves time looking for the bearing packer. BTW any heat in the shop, it looks cold.
If you see any nicks on chrome shafts use a File and Emery cloth and clean them up. If you have any leaks from seals don't try to replace them, that cyclinder requires special tools to replace seals. There is a company in South Carolina called Able Machine that is real good at replacing seals in that cyclinder . Just keep the nicks off the Chrome shafts. If you have any questions just email me.
Milky engine oil really common on lpg forklifts. I'm a forklift mechanic. Had rocker covers full of emulsion and oil literally milk shake white and a a good couple of pints of clean water drain out. Propane produces a huge amount of water vapour when it burns so condensation comes through the blowby, couple that with never getting up to full temp and constant hot/cold cycling of the block - stop/start typical for a forklift. And it's a perfect storm. When I service these lifts I don't change the oil anymore, I run the thing flat out for 40mins and like magic all the emulsion disappears and spotlessly clean oil. The problem with just changing oil regularly is you get the water out the oil but not the condensation inside the engine.
Quite right! My Clark never really warms up. I don't know if the thermostat ever even opens. I've never seen the gauge over 140F even when working it. The cooling system is massive for such a small engine.
@@WatchWesWork Forklift radiators are always overkill. They are always pretty toasty under there when working hard with so much confined in a small space. Plus the fan airflow direction isn't optimal - from the floor (like a vacuum cleaner when running around) and over the hot engine/transmission/hydraulic tank before it even reaches the radiator 😂. They also make the rads big enough to allow a significant amount of the core to get blocked with dust/debris before overheating issues occur. I normally recommend people to just start em up and let em idle 1/2hr a week until up to temp and you never get the 'sweaty oil' no one ever does though... 😂
Wes: Did you note the circular, axle scrapes inside your Clark hub caps, probably due to the missing gaskets. Hopefully the cotter pin legs bent over the axle ends will have enough space. . . but who knows? If the gasket was about 0.040, there might be about half the clearance needed for the pin leg.
Can really feel the frustration about getting Clark brand parts. Worked as a forktruck Tech. 18 years ago & was told that they had been bought out several times back then. The I.D. number "supposedly" said who owned it at the time. Yeah, right!!
Glad I found your site. I own this clark also. I want to change engine oil. Looks like I need to jack up the forklift. What type of jack should I get I have a 3 ton floor jack but i.know it is too small.
I’m currently re-working this same forklift. I used a 3 ton jack and it worked just fine. I elevated the lift with 1’ long 6x6 square tubing under all four wheels, flipped over 1/2”x 1/2” angle iron and welded to the top of the 6x6 so the lift won’t roll off.
Hi Wes. Great video with some sage advice. Crankshaft bolts are generally a pain in the backside. You were lucky with your one I feel. I have one that has sapped two days of my life so far, trying every trick in the book. Broken tools, missing skin, even the neighbours are staying clear. Making up a special tool now to try to beat it. If that fails I'll pull the entire engine out, pop the sump and lock the crankshaft inside the block. It is a matter of pride now. Why do they still design engines like this? The flywheel on the same crankshaft is held on with a pattern of bolts, why not the front pulley?
Have you looked at one of these? www.ehardware2u.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=363 I've used one before and they work well for car engines. I thought about making my own in 3/4 drive for the bigger stuff.
@@WatchWesWork I have not got one of those but would be a great addition to my box of tricks. How well do they work with deeply recessed offending bolts, that is, four 5PK belts deep? I guess if my tooling fails then tis reason enough to buy and try.
Just a quick update. The darn thing is finally off. The special tooling could not grip the PK belt grooves enough whilst the air impact driver worked away at the bolt. So turned the engine in the direction that would tighten the bolt so as to bring number 1 piston very close to BDC. I then marked the end of a length of natural fibre rope before pushing as much as could fit in the number 1 cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then I carefully turned the engine towards TDC in the direction of loosening the bolt which resulted in the crankshaft locking at about 60 degrees before TDC. The air impact driver was then successful in removing the stubborn crankshaft bolt. I then removed the rope making sure the last bit to come out had the marking on it. One last point, the camshafts were removed so all the valves were closed.
you ever fix that electrical issue? i would love to watch that vid, you are my new fav channel, think i have watched almost everything, learned so much
@@WatchWesWork good to hear you fixed it, i always love fixing a switch because it could always be hooped when you open it up but when you bring it back...a good feeling
Glad I found this,, I just went through our 300-50,, has a Brudi mast on it (3 stage) and am having problems getting air out of it,, I open the bleed screws but no air comes out.. I hope you can advise
4 wheeled oil leak hahahahaha I have drove many different types of forklifts 0ver my working life I think the bigg electric rigs were the best we had a small fleet of high bay lifts with " swing reach " that allowed you to work in narrow bays anyway good job and thanks for sharing
It's a good idea. I know OSHA loves to give fines for no seat belt on a forklift. However, this old girl has no seat belt, or even a provision to mount one.
Just so you know about Fram (ya, another one), I remember reading (this is PRE-INTERNET DAYS) a review on many of the common oil filters and Fram had the worst results, forward a few years to the internet, again same test, but they tore all the filters apart. Fram used the least amount of paper, they used the cheapest manufacturing methods....and finally, a few years ago, same skit, test of many oil filters...same results & contrutions. Fram is, by far the cheapest of the oil filters (but I sure did used to love their nice little rubber they'd add. With all that said, it will work fine, it just doesn't work as well, nor is constructed as nicely as the other filters. Kinda like buying tools from, as I call it, "The Chinese Embassy" (China Harbor Freight). They're not 'as good' but they work fine. Man, we all have opinions. You do good work, don't let other opinions bother you too much.
I kept thinking to my self to get the mirror out that I keep in my tool box to visually check to see if that main seel was set. Great video thumbs up...Oh by the way how did those Bald Eagles make out with that old oil wash? Nyuck,, nyyuck.
I am interested in becoming a forklift mechanic. I have been an auto mechanic and currently a diesel mechanic so I have a fair amount of experience. So someone who's not a total greenie, if were to start at a job like this would I be allowed to do more advance repairs or start at the bottom?
I've had pretty good service from Rock Auto, and one thing that is pretty cool is I was able to remove an item after placing the order through their online ordering. I did order a rebuild kit for some wheel cylinders from them once which showed pics of the part that said "Made in U.S.A.", and I got a box that said "Made in Mexico" and the rubber cups (ACDELCO drums) said "Made in U.S.A.". What are the chances that USA made rubber would be shipped to Mexico? Makes me kind of leery of the product, *BUT* I believe it is Timken, not Rock Auto. I ordered bearing seals for my lathe and got Timken seals that were "Made in Taiwan". Not from Rock Auto, which is why I suspect Timken is just going downhill...
All bearing makers seem to do that. They make the expensive, high margin, stuff in house and farm the other stuff out to the lowest bidder. Sometimes that's a US company, sometimes not. I've seen made in US seals and bearings in Korean cars.
I drove forklifts for four years at factory close to where I live. All of then Cat's and moved cotton shoe goods, my lifts got very warm, in fact it was mandatory to blow out the radiator every morning. But they ran all day and sometimes I ran two tanks of gas, propane, a day.
last fram I bought was 1993...split clear across the topwhile cruizing down the highway...shutdown, coasted off a ramp...had a friend bring a filter/oil, got home- there was not a scratch/ding/anything on the fram, was about 2 months old. I even cut it open to make sure nothing clogging- was clean as a whistle, just cracked perfectly across the top... a year and maybe 5000 miles later, my oil pressure started dropping on the old 396, pulled it and found it had spun a rod bearing- I still blame that on surely massive wear from running out of oil on the highway due to a crap oil filter.
nice videos thanks I have question I have forklift hyster h50 xl start but when I push pedal for aceleration cut off I have to put my hand on hold fron air filter runs fine if I take my hand off the forklift cut off
The best way to remove the bolt on the harmonic balancer - using a breaker bar with the correct size socket, turn the engine until the breaker stops against something solid, now just bump the starter and your bolt will be loose.
I got 79 C-300-40. Triple mast . I have a bad trans leak.. can’t seem to find it.. see the drip real Good even replaced the o ring, did all the brakes. What are the part numbers of those bearing and races
Ah, I too hate silicon with a passion. Last large diesel propulsion engine I overhaul had it on all sealing surfaces, bolts, flanges, o-rings, gaskets and what not. I am sure I spend most of the time removing the silicon. Silicon - amateur.
Wes, My fork lift looks to be identical to this one but do you know if there is a place stamped anywhere indicating the model? No placards still on it show a model. Thanks
Seems to be a common problem. The original tag should have been next to the seat. The only identifier will be a serial number stamped into the frame. It should be on the top under the battery or on the opposite side by the air filter. A dealer can look up your model from the serial number.
Great job and another great video!!
The way we used to pack bearings was to heat the grease up in a double boiler, sounds fancy but it was just an old metal grease can stood in a pan full of water on a hotplate, then dunk the bearing in and the grease would get into every nook and cranny of the bearing and solidify.
A local scrap yard here in illinois that I like to shop at got in a 5000 hyster with air tires, I was able to pick it up for 500 bucks. I had to fix the brakes and 2 of the mast cylinder, I machined a 2 inch snapon socket so it would fit the gland nuts, they had 4 rather small notches in them, I guess it could be called a spanner socket. Seemed kinda sacrilegious to mill on a snapon socket but I had 2 of them. Your right on how handy a forklift is, we had one just like it where I worked, I made a bracket that bolted to the forks and I was able to pull the booms apart by myself on the bucket trucks to replace all the hydraulic hoses.
I use mine every day. I'd be lost without it.
My dad taught me how to pack bearings the way your dad did 60 years ago. I glad to see others doing it the right way. Like the way you work.
I've met many experienced mechanics who have never packed a bearing by hand. Blows my mind.
Nice work Wes, I hope you put grease between the lips on that seal, stops the outer dust seal lip from burning and failing. Would also suggest that oil be applied to inner and outer bearing races before pressing, stops any chance of metal pick up. From 40 years as a mechanical fitter.
Good advice. Rarely understood by the seals I've seen.
Anytime I do maintenance on my equipment, especially overhauls and then I start them up, I feel like the thing that I worked on has big smile on its face because it got some care. Even if you just do the basics, it will go a long ways toward saving a ton of money in the long run. And besides, who doesn't want to get a smile out of their equipment?
I've used Fram oil filters for years on my cars. Never had a problem, but also always changed oil every 3-5K miles. Used STP filters on an '06 Sonata for ten years; no problems. Giving WIX a try on the '00 Dodge and will probably use a factory filter when I do the first oil change on my new Mazda. My propane heater dumps a ton of humidity into the air. The propane may very well be the oil/water problem.
Nice job Wes! I sure enjoyed watching over your shoulder; takes me back to my wrenchin' days :)
one of those jobs you dread and put off and then feel good about it once its done, should last another 40 years now!
It was getting a bit tiring mopping up after it. If it's still running in 40 years I doubt I'll be there to see it...
WES you have great shop and a brilliant way with spanners love watching
I don't own a Clark. I have a Toyota. Sat outside in Chicago for 5 years because the steering is shot. Finally got it running. I changed both inching and main master cylinders(totally guessed because I can't find the Vin number). One of the drive wheels spin. The other is seized. Been trying to remove the wheel. Pita. I'm going to get that wheel off. Then maybe I can figure out what parts I need to acquire to get it functioning again. I'm not a forklift guy. With that being said, I did operate one for 2 continuous years. These videos give me some hope. And you got another hanger on.
One of the most neglected tools in the shop, poor forklift. There very important time and back savers, but are abused like no other thing.
You aren't kidding! The most abused thing I ever saw was a yard truck we had for moving trailers at a shop where I worked. Old International with a 345 gas engine. Oil just poured out of it while it was running. The glass was broken out of the driver side and the latch never worked, so we covered the seat with a tarp and had a rubber strap to hold the door shut. Air compressor never worked, so you had to fill the air tanks with shop air before hooking a trailer. But you had to be quick because the 5th wheel release was pneumatic, so if you lost your air you could not drop the trailer. You could not slip the clutch in reverse or the aux transmission would drop into some phantom gear and you had to pull forward to get it back to normal. We poured so much ether into the carb to get it started in winter that no one even put the air cleaner back on. That was one tough old truck!
Same here, my job has a forklift that is probably close to my age (27). It's abused everyday. The only maintenance that ever gets done it's when something breaks. Which isn't often. It really makes me wonder how long a forklift will last if it isn't abused and properly maintained. My guess is indefinitely....
Amen.
Hire your local forklift mechanic. I'm a forklift mechanic myself.These things need regular maintenance.
we used to say the same thing about helo's in the marine corps, if it's not leaking don't get on, it's out of hydraulic fluid
Ha ha ha ha, thats pretty funny.
Wes, the motor mount is upside down, your dad tought you well on bearing packing, you can take a grease needle (used to grease sealed bearings ) and pack it guicker and not have cleanup to do. There is a better pulley seal that has the rubber seal and a felt dust seal on the pulley side, also there never was a gasket on the steer hub caps. You do very good work, I enjoy watching someone that does good work.
You sound exactly like one of our techs in the shop! Great Video! Great explanations and camera work (at the same time) too!!
Must of been in your good od shop days when this was filmed😊
Always interesting, because I learn something. Propane creating more water in the oil would make sense, because it has more hydrogen relative to carbon than diesel or gasoline. It's a cleaner fuel as far as CO2 emissions, but I never thought of water emissions as a problem!
Like I've said, I'm a chemistry dunce, but it does seem to put more water in the crankcase.
@@WatchWesWork something you more than make up for in circuits!
Wes, a very good video, one minor point. Federal-Mogul was never owned by Timkin. Rather a couple of years ago it was purchased by Tenneco, from Carl Ichan.
Love your videos Wes, no job is too big for you. Greetings from Ireland 🇮🇪
Some how I missed this one had to be asleep in my armchair, nice work done and another geart video.
One benefit to electric forklifts is that they are a lot less likely to leak oil. It´s really only the hydraulic system that has the capacity to do so, since the motor does´t have any oil in it. They don´t leak coolant either, since no combustion occurs that needs cooling. The lead battery is also usually pretty heavy, which is mostly a plus for a forklift.
Among the petroleum distillates Propane is also a dry fuel - it burns cleanly but has very little lube qualities.
That is how we packed bearings back in the day.
That’s how I pack bearings today
She looks to be identical to the ones I had when I was running a small aerospace job shop this machine would go into the warehouse retrieve or place back raw materials and tooling for upcoming or finished jobs it also did well removing pallets from box trucks and trailers because it is narrow enough to maneuver it also got into turning sharp to place pallets of raw stock in front of the CNC milling machines and lastly she has a single great trick, you could lift a human up to change the sodium light bulbs add or repair an air line of course we only used the safest methods for human lifting HAHA. You brought back memories of the older years 1978/79 through 1993/1998 we operated this machine type as well as the Clark dual front tire WIDE heavy weight material handling machines even with the rotating trunnion front end (great chip bin dumper) on it. Thank you.
These things are very maneuverable. I've been able to sneak into places I never thought possible.
The Florida pool pump motor repair guy approved ! that was good info Wes
You have some great lines! "Some wanker just glued the hell out of it!" LOL!
It's rare to hear north americans use that word. Damn funny though.
It's rare to hear north americans use that word. Damn funny though.
@Bill Carpenter Exact same line (6.19) that brought me here and found your comment...Don't hear Wes swear very often, but these forklift jobs seem to bring out the best in him..lol😂👍
If you and DD Speed Shop like Rock Auto, I think it's time to give 'em an order and see what happens. You're doing your usual good work. Thanks.
At work when I started there in 1975 we had a 5 ton Hyster fork lift propane and manual shift 4 Cyl. Continental Engine. The engine has never been out. The transmission was reworked back in 1994 It was well used when they bought it and belonged to a Transport Company. This Hyster is still going. Used every day. We check and change oil and tune it up
We had Clark's at the vegetable company I worked for I drove forklift and clamp trucks! They could do a lot of work , if maintained properly! They were slower than some of the others, but you never felt like your load was too much for them! When I was haul loads from up front ,way back to the back of the warehouse , was along haul,and by the time you got back to the line you had a load ready! I never liked it when the case stacker went down !
Gases when evaporate/vaporize ,like the LPG here, pull heat from the ambient temp,and condensate its moisture.
On dragsters and whatever is running on alcohol or methanol,they use a vacuum pump to pull moisture out of the cranckcase,so oil.
The fuel under the blowby form,byproduct of those fuels combustion being water ,condensate in the cranckcase and deteriorates the oil.
You could run an electric vacuum pump also and simply pull vacuum from the cranckcase.
You could also circulate fresh air through the whole cranck case through a breather using an air pump,like the ones used to send air in the exhaust during cold starts.
There are a lot of them on VW as i know.
The simplest thing to do would be to get the engine warmed up once in a while. When the oil warm up, the water will evaporate quickly.
@@WatchWesWork
Simpler is not always the less expensive on the long run.
Much better test drive video than with the rollback.
Sir, please keep up the great work and video posts.
Much respect from a fellow machinist/fabricator/engineer.
Yeah the GoPro is a lot more stable.
My take away from this is, you can't go wrong buying a Clark forklift if parts are available and cheap. Thanks for this video it gives me an insight repairing a forklift.
Nice Work on the front mail seal and the hubs and bearings them inner races were pretty bad @Watch Wes Work
Awesome stuff, man! New subscriber here and really liking what I'm seeing and hearing...no oil on ground - no oil in engine...4-wheeled oil leak....Bwahaha LMAO love it!
top job man, but not fore me animore , mechanic sins 20 years old, now i am 67, and every muscle and bone is cracking, love to see it stil, brings me a litle bit in the mood, same thing like enduro bike loved it now i love to see it, i had a time buzy with 1/8 rc racing cars, delta, assosiate and serpent, i like the technics, go on wes ,...love it.
Lovely video... takes me back to my time as a Clark field service engineer, 7 years on the road doing all manner of jobs. Everything from regular servicing to engine/ transmission overhauls on engine powered trucks up to 20 ton container lifters. That truck was a C50 in the UK, motor was a Teledyne Continental 4 pot flat head side valve - rock solid unit only ever had 1 with a blown head gasket. Handbrakes are a steward to replace on this model - engine out job as they are in the bell housing on the transmission. Later C500 had external Bendix drum brake off a transmission lay shaft. if you loose the transmission on any clark FT with a powershift transmission, check the inching spring in the transmission control cover hasn't broken, a regular job back then. Steward to get to but an easy diagnosis.
I actually disabled the inching valve in this machine. We had a Toyota lift at a place I used to work and it did not have an inching valve. I preferred the way the Toyota worked, so I modified the Clark to be the same. I just have to watch that I don't rev the engine with my foot on the brake. But, I'm the only operator, so it's not a concern.
Thanks Wes, for some reason it is a lot more fun to sit on the couch and watch you wrench than to actually do it myself. Unfortunately I'm going to be forced soon, my little hyster is leaving a bigger and bigger puddle of hydraulic oil behind to mark it's territory.
Yeah, mine has a leak in the mast cylinder as well. It's not fun to re pack them.
have used Rock auto a number of times, with no problems. Only draw back, have to know just what you need and be able to wait a couple of days for items needed.
Another fine job Wes! Wish I had some of your mad skills man.
Happy holidays to you and yours.
ALWAYS raise garage door all the way! As a garage door repairman, most of my commercial calls were because door was hit by forklift mast when coming back in. Raise it just enough to get out, come back with a raised load...ka-ching for me! Can't sell just one ore two lower panels, because they won't break up garage door panel set to me, buy the whole door or nothing.
If Engine Mains Bearings are worn and crankshaft has any movement up an down a new seal is not going to stop the leak, all you can do is put a new seal in and cross your fingers.
Normally pulling the counter weight and radiator is the way to replace the front seal. removing the big bolt at bottom of counter , and running a chain down through the two holes on top of counter weight and picking up with another forklift.
The Engine is a Continental 163
I worked for Clark for many years they are very well built.
Never saw that gimmick for bearing packing before. Nice. The place I work at recently had the forklift rental company set up a permanent repair shed at the loading dock with fancy sound deadening walls hung from the ceiling. There are usually 36-60 machines on the job at any given time. When big shows come in, some of the forklifts are huge.
I always marvel at the number of forklifts at the McCormick Center in Chicago. When they have IMTS there I bet they have over 200 lifts and almost as many man lifts standing by to move machines or pull wiring.
Just bought a 1982 Hyster forklift for my shop. Just starting to get to the maintenance it needs.
Nothing gets neglected like a forklift. Even big companies that have service contracts for the lifts don't maintain them.
I drove a forklift 5 years where I worked , I believe it was the same model.
Love your videos always learn something
Frame 6:19, had me smiling.
I think you are the first American, I have heard use the term.
W.....! The same as we do in the England UK.😂
I've said it several times. I'm from Tennessee originally. I does sound weird with the American accent though! Haha
14:34 that's the moment in life when all this free hand cutting training in the kindergarten pays out 😋
Wes, that fix will make it go 5 MPH faster. Daddy was right, but your suppose to grab a hand full of grease right out of the bucket first, saves time looking for the bearing packer. BTW any heat in the shop, it looks cold.
Yeah it's heated, but it's cold outside, so it only get so warm...
If you see any nicks on chrome shafts use a File and Emery cloth and clean them up. If you have any leaks from seals don't try to replace them, that cyclinder requires special tools to replace seals.
There is a company in South Carolina called Able Machine that is real good at replacing seals in that cyclinder . Just keep the nicks off the Chrome shafts. If you have any questions just email me.
I love your videos and mrs Wes
Good job Wess
Milky engine oil really common on lpg forklifts. I'm a forklift mechanic.
Had rocker covers full of emulsion and oil literally milk shake white and a a good couple of pints of clean water drain out.
Propane produces a huge amount of water vapour when it burns so condensation comes through the blowby, couple that with never getting up to full temp and constant hot/cold cycling of the block - stop/start typical for a forklift. And it's a perfect storm.
When I service these lifts I don't change the oil anymore, I run the thing flat out for 40mins and like magic all the emulsion disappears and spotlessly clean oil.
The problem with just changing oil regularly is you get the water out the oil but not the condensation inside the engine.
Quite right! My Clark never really warms up. I don't know if the thermostat ever even opens. I've never seen the gauge over 140F even when working it. The cooling system is massive for such a small engine.
@@WatchWesWork Forklift radiators are always overkill.
They are always pretty toasty under there when working hard with so much confined in a small space. Plus the fan airflow direction isn't optimal - from the floor (like a vacuum cleaner when running around) and over the hot engine/transmission/hydraulic tank before it even reaches the radiator 😂.
They also make the rads big enough to allow a significant amount of the core to get blocked with dust/debris before overheating issues occur.
I normally recommend people to just start em up and let em idle 1/2hr a week until up to temp and you never get the 'sweaty oil' no one ever does though... 😂
Who needs seal installers when they have a box full of sockets. :-) Clearly those wheel bearings suffered moisture damage.
What's a seal installer?
Good job Wes
Wes: Did you note the circular, axle scrapes inside your Clark hub caps, probably due to the missing gaskets. Hopefully the cotter pin legs bent over the axle ends will have enough space. . . but who knows? If the gasket was about 0.040, there might be about half the clearance needed for the pin leg.
Can really feel the frustration about getting Clark brand parts. Worked as a forktruck Tech. 18 years ago & was told that they had been bought out several times back then. The I.D. number "supposedly" said who owned it at the time. Yeah, right!!
I’ve got one of these lifts, only two owners. The build sheet specified who originally bought it and Clark supplied me with a copy of the sheet.
Glad I found your site. I own this clark also. I want to change engine oil. Looks like I need to jack up the forklift. What type of jack should I get I have a 3 ton floor jack but i.know it is too small.
I’m currently re-working this same forklift. I used a 3 ton jack and it worked just fine. I elevated the lift with 1’ long 6x6 square tubing under all four wheels, flipped over 1/2”x 1/2” angle iron and welded to the top of the 6x6 so the lift won’t roll off.
Thumbs up 👍 watoil good mix.
Wow, comment 200 - as notable as the First comments to Future Wes! I see Clark left just enough space for a main seal job without dropping the engine.
Pretty good. A lot of useful info.
Awesome , I just got a hold of a Clark and it needs work
Hi Wes. Great video with some sage advice.
Crankshaft bolts are generally a pain in the backside. You were lucky with your one I feel. I have one that has sapped two days of my life so far, trying every trick in the book. Broken tools, missing skin, even the neighbours are staying clear. Making up a special tool now to try to beat it. If that fails I'll pull the entire engine out, pop the sump and lock the crankshaft inside the block. It is a matter of pride now.
Why do they still design engines like this? The flywheel on the same crankshaft is held on with a pattern of bolts, why not the front pulley?
Have you looked at one of these? www.ehardware2u.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=363 I've used one before and they work well for car engines. I thought about making my own in 3/4 drive for the bigger stuff.
@@WatchWesWork I have not got one of those but would be a great addition to my box of tricks. How well do they work with deeply recessed offending bolts, that is, four 5PK belts deep? I guess if my tooling fails then tis reason enough to buy and try.
Just a quick update. The darn thing is finally off. The special tooling could not grip the PK belt grooves enough whilst the air impact driver worked away at the bolt. So turned the engine in the direction that would tighten the bolt so as to bring number 1 piston very close to BDC. I then marked the end of a length of natural fibre rope before pushing as much as could fit in the number 1 cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then I carefully turned the engine towards TDC in the direction of loosening the bolt which resulted in the crankshaft locking at about 60 degrees before TDC. The air impact driver was then successful in removing the stubborn crankshaft bolt. I then removed the rope making sure the last bit to come out had the marking on it. One last point, the camshafts were removed so all the valves were closed.
Your patience paid off!
I saw this fork lift on Columbs,s ship when he sailed 2 Amercia!
you ever fix that electrical issue? i would love to watch that vid, you are my new fav channel, think i have watched almost everything, learned so much
I did. Key switch was bad.
@@WatchWesWork good to hear you fixed it, i always love fixing a switch because it could always be hooped when you open it up but when you bring it back...a good feeling
All the parts and labor. You're still money ahead over a new machine.
I have a Kubota b8200 and it has basically milkshake gear oil, since I never get the transmission hot, it never evaporates
Glad I found this,, I just went through our 300-50,, has a Brudi mast on it (3 stage) and am having problems getting air out of it,, I open the bleed screws but no air comes out.. I hope you can advise
oooooo, brake clean! Nice job Wes.
Got to have the good stuff!
4 wheeled oil leak hahahahaha I have drove many different types of forklifts 0ver my working life I think the bigg electric rigs were the best we had a small fleet of high bay lifts with " swing reach " that allowed you to work in narrow bays anyway good job and thanks for sharing
Great video always enjoy yours. One suggestion always wear seat belt when operating fork truck my best friend is parallelized from not wearing one.
It's a good idea. I know OSHA loves to give fines for no seat belt on a forklift. However, this old girl has no seat belt, or even a provision to mount one.
Did he used to be perpendicular?
I worked for a outfit in the 70's and 80s we had a Clark forklifts nothing wrong!, they went out and Toyota forklifts they were broken all the time!
Just so you know about Fram (ya, another one), I remember reading (this is PRE-INTERNET DAYS) a review on many of the common oil filters and Fram had the worst results, forward a few years to the internet, again same test, but they tore all the filters apart. Fram used the least amount of paper, they used the cheapest manufacturing methods....and finally, a few years ago, same skit, test of many oil filters...same results & contrutions. Fram is, by far the cheapest of the oil filters (but I sure did used to love their nice little rubber they'd add.
With all that said, it will work fine, it just doesn't work as well, nor is constructed as nicely as the other filters.
Kinda like buying tools from, as I call it, "The Chinese Embassy" (China Harbor Freight). They're not 'as good' but they work fine. Man, we all have opinions. You do good work, don't let other opinions bother you too much.
I kept thinking to my self to get the mirror out that I keep in my tool box to visually check to see if that main seel was set. Great video thumbs up...Oh by the way how did those Bald Eagles make out with that old oil wash? Nyuck,, nyyuck.
Like a new forklift 😀
All we need is a time machine...
I have the same forklift, engines that run on propane do not turn the oil black like gas engines
Clarks were basic , but tough and built using pretty good hardware
Great video look forward to the next live stream
I think that your arbor press was made in the last century.
I am interested in becoming a forklift mechanic. I have been an auto mechanic and currently a diesel mechanic so I have a fair amount of experience. So someone who's not a total greenie, if were to start at a job like this would I be allowed to do more advance repairs or start at the bottom?
No idea.
Great video.
Yea, it isn't leaking now, but what about highway speeds... lol! Nice video...except for the Fram filter...of course!
I prefer to call it "ramming speed".
I've had pretty good service from Rock Auto, and one thing that is pretty cool is I was able to remove an item after placing the order through their online ordering. I did order a rebuild kit for some wheel cylinders from them once which showed pics of the part that said "Made in U.S.A.", and I got a box that said "Made in Mexico" and the rubber cups (ACDELCO drums) said "Made in U.S.A.". What are the chances that USA made rubber would be shipped to Mexico? Makes me kind of leery of the product, *BUT* I believe it is Timken, not Rock Auto. I ordered bearing seals for my lathe and got Timken seals that were "Made in Taiwan". Not from Rock Auto, which is why I suspect Timken is just going downhill...
All bearing makers seem to do that. They make the expensive, high margin, stuff in house and farm the other stuff out to the lowest bidder. Sometimes that's a US company, sometimes not. I've seen made in US seals and bearings in Korean cars.
I put the inner races in the freezer overnight they will fall right in place.
You must mean the outer races.
I drove forklifts for four years at factory close to where I live. All of then Cat's and moved cotton shoe goods, my lifts got very warm, in fact it was mandatory to blow out the radiator every morning. But they ran all day and sometimes I ran two tanks of gas, propane, a day.
Ok, how did you pull the balancer? Nice cut btw. probably about an hour of cussing, right?
I used a fram oil filter once and my dog stole my truck. Luckily the fram filter made it seize immediately so he didn't get to far.
Theft deterrent. Makes sense to me.
last fram I bought was 1993...split clear across the topwhile cruizing down the highway...shutdown, coasted off a ramp...had a friend bring a filter/oil, got home- there was not a scratch/ding/anything on the fram, was about 2 months old. I even cut it open to make sure nothing clogging- was clean as a whistle, just cracked perfectly across the top... a year and maybe 5000 miles later, my oil pressure started dropping on the old 396, pulled it and found it had spun a rod bearing- I still blame that on surely massive wear from running out of oil on the highway due to a crap oil filter.
Wes I just bought the same lift where did you get your clark parts and manuals.
I got everything from my local dealership.
Your Clark forklift will last another 40 years.
Where can you find your parts for Clark. I just bought a used one and I am needing to replace the inch forward master cylinder.
Did I see a CNC machine in the background?
nice videos thanks I have question I have forklift hyster h50 xl start
but when I push pedal for aceleration cut off I have to put my hand on
hold fron air filter runs fine if I take my hand off the forklift cut
off
hub covers look to have just been put on with no sealer or gasket.
The best way to remove the bolt on the harmonic balancer - using a breaker bar with the correct size socket, turn the engine until the breaker stops against something solid, now just bump the starter and your bolt will be loose.
I got 79 C-300-40. Triple mast . I have a bad trans leak.. can’t seem to find it.. see the drip real
Good even replaced the o ring, did all the brakes.
What are the part numbers of those bearing and races
Ah, I too hate silicon with a passion.
Last large diesel propulsion engine I overhaul had it on all sealing surfaces, bolts, flanges, o-rings, gaskets and what not. I am sure I spend most of the time removing the silicon.
Silicon - amateur.
Yes sir!
Erik Johansson well you need gasket sealer on water pump and oil pan or it will leak
Wes, My fork lift looks to be identical to this one but do you know if there is a place stamped anywhere indicating the model? No placards still on it show a model. Thanks
Seems to be a common problem. The original tag should have been next to the seat. The only identifier will be a serial number stamped into the frame. It should be on the top under the battery or on the opposite side by the air filter. A dealer can look up your model from the serial number.
Same way my dad tought me.
if you completely overhaul the engine and wheels then you have a new forklift
If there is no oil under it then there is no oil in it 🤣
If all Fram filters exploded engines I think they would have closed long go. Not the best rated filter but it works.
It’s not the filter it’s the cheap people who don’t change them when they are supposed to be changed
where did you find brake parts for it?
Dealer.