Glad it worked on the FA! Personally I'd add a bit of weight to the engine, some steel plates or whatever you can get your hands on. As far as traction tires are concerned when they fall off and the engine doesn't miss them I leave them off, but then I've got a small 4 x 8 layout with no grades. Since I can't run super-long consists I haven't had a problem leaving traction tires off.
I used Loctite Super Glue Ultragel on my 8206's traction tire because it would throw it pulling longer (10 car) consists. Works well, but the tricky part was getting the glue spread out evenly without gluing my fingers to the wheel or tire.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I use super glue to mount pool cue tips. There is super glue and there is Super Glue Ultragel. The Ultragel is better all the way around... for that work at least.
My experience even with magna traction a couple pounds of weight will help eliminate slippage. Pulling a dozen heavy post war cars should be routine. Magna traction does not increase the coefficient of friction but it does make better use of the friction that is there creating an “artificial” weight. Others suggested weight and they are pointing you in the right direction. I have 2 motor magna traction Alco (custom modified) that has to ease on throttle from rest or it will pull cars off tracks from instant grip on track. Keep in mind Lionel in later years was not interested in the performance enhancing design. More like producing a cheaper product to just stay in business.
Prewar Marx guy here, I fallowed Benz Trainz idea of using electrician's tape in strips of 1/4"x 3" on my Marx C/V rear wheel. Store the Bullfrog in a zip lock bag or jar with an airtight seal and keep at room tempter.
My experience with bullfrog snot was sub-par. The jar dried up after about 1 year, and the 3 locos where I used it started slipping again all too soon. In the net, I would have been ahead to get the right traction tires. I’m now looking for some sort of a “master kit” of traction tires to support a variety of locos. In my experience, superglue gel is quite effective at holding a slipping traction tire.
I have read that BFS can pick up dirt, but a damp cloth can clean it and restore traction. I have tried the gel glue with poor results. It either gave up and allowed the tire to slip off, or held on too tight and the tire ripped.
Would have liked it to be more of an "Apples vs. Apples" comparison of starting the FA in front of the camera so as to note the amount of wheel slip pre- and post-treatment(s) w/ the BFS. (You DID show the wheel slip pre-treatment.) You also might have mentioned just how DIFFICULT it can be to remove an old traction tire & replace. A nightmare to most who have had to DO it !
I like my oh 27 Union Pacific Orange 202 because it has a solid pilot. It looks so much more realistic than that great big hole with you operating coupler on the front of the locomotive which is never going to be used. Looks much more realistic than an open pilot. It would be nicer if it had two Motors and a diecast shell
Will any other brand work? Also this is off topic but what will say is the best o scale transformer? Lionel’s, MTH Z4000, or the Right of Way Industries transformer?
BFS will work fine on any locomotives. HO and N scalers use it all the time. As far as which transformer is best, it depends on your needs and preferences. It's like asking a random group whether Ford, Chevy, or Dodge is best. Compare prices and features and decide which works best for your layout and budget.
The only potential problem I can see is electrical continuity. Some early Scouts use only the four driving wheels for electrical common. Later models also use the pilot and pony trucks. If only the driving wheels are grounded, the application of the Bullfrog Snot will eliminate those wheels from participating in the electrical circuit and may cause stalling issues on turnouts and crossings. If this is the case, you can add a jumper wire from the motor common to the pilot truck to aid in continuity.
I tried this product on some S gauge engines with less than satisfactory results. The trick is getting it applied evenly, which I really struggled with. If it is not the same thickness all the way around, you will get a bump effect as the engine goes around the track. The other problem is if you don't get it applied smooth and decide to remove the snot to try again, you will need a dremel tool with a wire brush to remove it. It will not just peel off. After several attempts to get it right (I never did get it right), I gave up. At $25 a bottle, I just can't recommend it. Difficult to apply evenly, even more difficult to remove, and too expensive. Just my experience. It must work for someone as it's still for sale after all these years. Good luck.
Thanks for the input. I think the trick to even application is spinning the wheels until it sets. Let physics do the work for you. I let mine spin at about half throttle for 30-35 minutes and it seemed okay.
Eh, the Bullfrog snot is ok at best, would i ever buy it again? Most likely not, i have some for my HO locos and it never seems to help much, what has always helped all my locos across HO and O is buying 1/4oz car wheel balance weights and sticking them in the shells of the loco. Works every time.
The curve top of the tubular track and inhibits traction so little of the rail actually touches the top of the wheel. When I tried to run my MTH subway car set on Old Fashioned track it wouldn't pull because it was sliding along the top of the rail where is on the flat MTH track the wheel got much more traction I could pull the rest of the subway car train
Was thinking you would get far more traction by applying the snot to say both LH rear truck wheels and RH wheels of forward trucks, electrical and traction would greatly improve...
Save your money don't buy Bullfrog Snot $24 1oz jar, Buy Liquid latex $12 16oz same stuff but cheaper or get some tool dip they use to coat pliers handles still cheaper then Bullfrog Snot.
In this case, it wasn't a "problem". It was deliberate. This FA chassis was part of an uncatalogued, mass-market set that was designed to be as cheap as possible. No reverse. No horn. No traction. No operating couplers. Just a headlight.
I don't use traction tires on any of my HO locomotives. If my locomotive is not strong enough, I add another locomotive just like the real railroads do.
The experiment is 100% negated in the last clip. By not starting from the same position under the same conditions a new variable has been introduced. I can either trust this conclusion based on evidence not presented or continue to look for complete and objective data.
![How To Add Lionel Uncouplers [Almost] Anywhere! Even On Curves!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1m8O57GhkOw/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Add Lionel Uncouplers [Almost] Anywhere! Even On Curves!](/img/tr.png)
Glad it worked on the FA! Personally I'd add a bit of weight to the engine, some steel plates or whatever you can get your hands on.
As far as traction tires are concerned when they fall off and the engine doesn't miss them I leave them off, but then I've got a small 4 x 8 layout with no grades. Since I can't run super-long consists I haven't had a problem leaving traction tires off.
I think weight + tires can make this a decent -pulling engine. Thanks for watching!
I used Loctite Super Glue Ultragel on my 8206's traction tire because it would throw it pulling longer (10 car) consists. Works well, but the tricky part was getting the glue spread out evenly without gluing my fingers to the wheel or tire.
I had no luck with Super Glue.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I use super glue to mount pool cue tips. There is super glue and there is Super Glue Ultragel. The Ultragel is better all the way around... for that work at least.
Disposable gloves should solve the sticking to hands issue.
My experience even with magna traction a couple pounds of weight will help eliminate slippage. Pulling a dozen heavy post war cars should be routine. Magna traction does not increase the coefficient of friction but it does make better use of the friction that is there creating an “artificial” weight. Others suggested weight and they are pointing you in the right direction. I have 2 motor magna traction Alco (custom modified) that has to ease on throttle from rest or it will pull cars off tracks from instant grip on track. Keep in mind Lionel in later years was not interested in the performance enhancing design. More like producing a cheaper product to just stay in business.
Prewar Marx guy here, I fallowed Benz Trainz idea of using electrician's tape in strips of 1/4"x 3" on my Marx C/V rear wheel. Store the Bullfrog in a zip lock bag or jar with an airtight seal and keep at room tempter.
Good tip. Thanks!
And how did you find the electrical tape’s performance?
@@glasshalffull2930 I`ll have to buy a roll of 3M, the tape I used was of inferior quality
Great review. Seems like a worthwhile product
Thanks for watching and commenting!
As well as the bullfrog try adding some lead weight inside the f8 for more down force.
Very clever name.! Will keep this in mind for sure.! Thanks.👍Have a great weekend.!🙂
Thanks, you too!
My experience with bullfrog snot was sub-par. The jar dried up after about 1 year, and the 3 locos where I used it started slipping again all too soon. In the net, I would have been ahead to get the right traction tires. I’m now looking for some sort of a “master kit” of traction tires to support a variety of locos.
In my experience, superglue gel is quite effective at holding a slipping traction tire.
I have read that BFS can pick up dirt, but a damp cloth can clean it and restore traction. I have tried the gel glue with poor results. It either gave up and allowed the tire to slip off, or held on too tight and the tire ripped.
Would have liked it to be more of an "Apples vs. Apples" comparison of starting the FA in front of the camera so as to note the amount of wheel slip pre- and post-treatment(s) w/ the BFS. (You DID show the wheel slip pre-treatment.) You also might have mentioned just how DIFFICULT it can be to remove an old traction tire & replace. A nightmare to most who have had to DO it !
We'll, in this case there was no tire to replace. I also used it on an 0-8-0 that kept losing its tire on its own!
I like my oh 27 Union Pacific Orange 202 because it has a solid pilot. It looks so much more realistic than that great big hole with you operating coupler on the front of the locomotive which is never going to be used. Looks much more realistic than an open pilot. It would be nicer if it had two Motors and a diecast shell
I could have left it as the Texas Special with the closed pilot, but I wanted a match for the passenger cars.ua-cam.com/video/lSfQlFWJCJY/v-deo.html
This is a good item to use and thank you for the demonstration. Is there any residue on the tracks from the product?
No. The BFS seems to pick up some dirt from the rails, but a quick wipe with a slightly damp cloth restores operation.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Thank you
Yes I use regularly you should use a toothpick to apply and also do the tires diagonally on two tires
Thanks for the tip!
Does this stuff melt plastics, also is it bad that i want some just to read the warning label lol
Actually, it IS a plastic, so it won't melt anything.
Will any other brand work? Also this is off topic but what will say is the best o scale transformer? Lionel’s, MTH Z4000, or the Right of Way Industries transformer?
BFS will work fine on any locomotives. HO and N scalers use it all the time. As far as which transformer is best, it depends on your needs and preferences. It's like asking a random group whether Ford, Chevy, or Dodge is best. Compare prices and features and decide which works best for your layout and budget.
How well would this work for locomotive with the plastic "scout" motors?
The only potential problem I can see is electrical continuity. Some early Scouts use only the four driving wheels for electrical common. Later models also use the pilot and pony trucks. If only the driving wheels are grounded, the application of the Bullfrog Snot will eliminate those wheels from participating in the electrical circuit and may cause stalling issues on turnouts and crossings. If this is the case, you can add a jumper wire from the motor common to the pilot truck to aid in continuity.
I tried this product on some S gauge engines with less than satisfactory results. The trick is getting it applied evenly, which I really struggled with. If it is not the same thickness all the way around, you will get a bump effect as the engine goes around the track. The other problem is if you don't get it applied smooth and decide to remove the snot to try again, you will need a dremel tool with a wire brush to remove it. It will not just peel off. After several attempts to get it right (I never did get it right), I gave up. At $25 a bottle, I just can't recommend it. Difficult to apply evenly, even more difficult to remove, and too expensive. Just my experience. It must work for someone as it's still for sale after all these years. Good luck.
Thanks for the input. I think the trick to even application is spinning the wheels until it sets. Let physics do the work for you. I let mine spin at about half throttle for 30-35 minutes and it seemed okay.
To remove it, could one re-grind an old wood chisel to fit exactly into the slot?
Does this work on modern trains like MTH ones or modern Lionel ones ?
Yes.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks poggers
Eh, the Bullfrog snot is ok at best, would i ever buy it again? Most likely not, i have some for my HO locos and it never seems to help much, what has always helped all my locos across HO and O is buying 1/4oz car wheel balance weights and sticking them in the shells of the loco. Works every time.
I find the best results with tires/snot AND weight.
Why can't the front truck have 4 wheel pickup? I've done it.
It COULD if the locomotive was modified. As designed, it does not.
I'd like to try this on my 2018.
Couldn't hurt!
The curve top of the tubular track and inhibits traction so little of the rail actually touches the top of the wheel. When I tried to run my MTH subway car set on Old Fashioned track it wouldn't pull because it was sliding along the top of the rail where is on the flat MTH track the wheel got much more traction I could pull the rest of the subway car train
Correct. Flat rail track does provide better traction.
Was thinking you would get far more traction by applying the snot to say both LH rear truck wheels and RH wheels of forward trucks, electrical and traction would greatly improve...
The forward trucks are not powered, so that would have no effect in this case.
Actually, I think that it's conductive and could theoretically be added to all the wheels of a locomotive.
The product website says its an insulator.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I guess I was thinking about something else then.
Add lead weights to the rear of the FA. It will walk away with those cars
I had a good laugh out of it when I first found out about it
Save your money don't buy Bullfrog Snot $24 1oz jar, Buy Liquid latex $12 16oz same stuff but cheaper or get some tool dip they use to coat pliers handles still cheaper then Bullfrog Snot.
Thanks for the tip!
Another option is a kind of glue for carpet (In Brazil is known as "Segura Tapete" - Carpet Holder). Do the same of bullfrog and is veeery cheap!
Shame on Lionel for not correcting the traction tire problem.
In this case, it wasn't a "problem". It was deliberate. This FA chassis was part of an uncatalogued, mass-market set that was designed to be as cheap as possible. No reverse. No horn. No traction. No operating couplers. Just a headlight.
I was referring to the 0-8-0 traction tires that keep coming off.
@@ronalddevine9587 Ok.
I don't use traction tires on any of my HO locomotives. If my locomotive is not strong enough, I add another locomotive just like the real railroads do.
PLEASE Don't block what you are trying to show. You have done this in the past also.
Yes. The cameraman has been fired!!! :-)
The experiment is 100% negated in the last clip. By not starting from the same position under the same conditions a new variable has been introduced. I can either trust this conclusion based on evidence not presented or continue to look for complete and objective data.
Good point. Thank you.
😴 p̾r̾o̾m̾o̾s̾m̾
GIVE THE LOCOMOTIVE SOME WEIGHT!!! The thing will start to run. The locomotive is too light, it needs weight so the tires can grip the rails!
I will probably add weight later. The point of the video was to test only the Bullfrog Snot.