love the show guys. been watching for a lil while now n I love it. nice work on directing and most importantly thank you being ALIVE! alot of shows are just the same mundane hooplah with monotoned tool bags lol
Couple of things: With some engines, if you bybass the heater core with just running a loop with the hoses, the cooling is affected badly when there is no longer anything to resist the coolant flow. Water always takes the easiest route. I use marine seals for the intake manifold, with these, as they have telltale channels at the coolant passage areas, if someone forgets to put rtv around those passage sealing areas, the coolant drips out and not into the engine or to the closest intake. Depending of the seal type and construction used, to avoid intake leaks ,putting rtv around every intake port is not a bad idea, because, as in this video, usually people just put the manifold back without checking the straightness. With aluminum manifolds, the previous owner may have used wrong torq specs. Here in Finland, the emissions test of the MOT is strict, and any intake leak will rise the HC to the fail point. Only to be found at the MOT, as my tester measures only CO. The aluminum foil is something I will use next time, I usually use just old towel, but it can be used for somethung else instead. Easier to vacuum. As someone mentioned, with the Ford distributor the manifold can be removed without removing the distributor, as for the first timers, noticing the rotation needed because of the distributor gears may cause problems. I use the GM HEI with Ford foot with these as it is a one wire job. That thing is so big that it has to come off first to easily replace the manifold. And, for some reason, I found 351's to be easier to put back without any leaks. Something to do with the dimensions/geometry...
I made my own distributor wrench half inch on one side 9/16 the other it was a long box on both ends wrench so I heated and hooked a about 75dg bend in both ends one ford one Chevy lol works for me had it for years hasn't let me down yet .. I get some kind of satisfaction from that even if the wrench is not expensive just feel better when I can make one that cost me considerably less sometimes we all have to improvise especially when money is an object and I grew up broke and it's how I learned to work on stuff lol now now we don't use a Rock as a hammer but a small amount of improvising on occasion .. my mentor back then used to mess with me when he saw me doing things like using the ratchet or the channel locks to tap on something you know .. he would say. Yep just like general motors does it just grab a rock and hit that there thing a few good times you'll get it .. lmao night all
I prefer the red RTV (Permatex) versus the black. Seals just as well, but easier to remove if you have to go back in. It’s easier to check the age of the block; code is by the starter (roller versus flat tappet). Also pop the valve covers and check the date on the heads.
The main trick to torque on a Ford intake is from the inside out I learned that the hard way on my first Ford intake, loosen all the bolts and redo it the right way thus no intake leak.
Love the show. I'm of the opinion that you should clean parts. 5 mins cleaning up that intake manifold would have quickly noticed future leaks or worse yet a messed reinstallation. While doing the intake should have done the valve cover gaskets at same time. Those will go next and carb and was out of the way when you could have done it. Cleaned the valve covers and the entire top of your engine would have looked refreshed and maintained.
Thinks for the kind words! We did clean the intake, but the aluminum was molted and would have required bead or sandblasting; something that Cam was not interested in doing..deisel mechanic, go figure. The valve cover idea is a good one. We had just replaced them so didn't think to cover that.
You actually don't have to remove the distributor on a small block Ford! Have taken my intake off a few times. Never removed it once! Just have to be careful!👍
Yeah on a stand like that no problem but in the car definetely a lot easier w out the distributor in the way especially the one I'm working on its a gm hei. Made for small block ford big cap right in the way ..
18:10 never really sure where the rtv really is... That's why you put some on both sides ... Move it a very tiny bit back and forth once or twice so it gets where it needs to be and its as mint as it gets ...
No worries about the break in with a roller cam tho no zinc either and you can get a lot better cam profile with better idle characteristics and still get the performance like. A long duration short L.S.A over a flat tappet and I've heard there's been a big problem with aftermarket flat tappet cams failing at an alarming rate ..
I went ahead and spent 2 extra bucks and got four 3” - 4” 5/16 bolts and cut the heads off for guide studs , easier to take out. Oh, when torquing without a proper torque wrench you need to say “click- click” for better accuracy.
hey Jeff, today I was tightening down my brand new manifold to my freshly machined heads ( ford 289). as I was tightening one of the bolts I heard a snap. what happened is that the top part of the thread popped off. it seems the bolts were too short and only gripped a few threads and broke off when I tightened them. question 1 - since most of the thread is still there will it be OK? question 2 - what size bolts should I be using?
I'd probably personally get a set of AMK factory style bolts the kit is around $25.00. Keep in mind that the AMK kit has studs for the four corners to allow ease of install.
I don't gotten through the 1st 5 minutes but I always mark where of the Rotor is pointing when you pull the distributor out because it will twist on the camshaft. 4:20 mark see rotate
What would happen if debris were to fall in the holes in the lifter valley when cleaning the old gasket material? My son and i took out the old intake, and i asked him to clean the old material. He sprayed the entire lifter valley with degreaser and scraped everything clean. Some of the debris went into the holes at the bottom of the lifter valley before i realized what had happened. Can’t be mad at him, he did what he thought was right.
If it were me I think I would do a diesel flush first. I'd pour the diesel down the ports where the debris would have gone. No guarantee that this is going to work though. I would then probably pull the oil pan and check the pan for debris. Then I would do a fresh oil change and pull the distributor and Use a drill to pump up the oil system. This will keep you from hopefully burning any bearings.
Great vids guys . We have had some mustangs over the years. But now we are into mavericks. We get more people stop and talk to us than we ever did with the fastback mustang we had. Would be cool if you work on a maverick. P.S still love a Mustang.
Is it possible to swap put the upper intake manifold off of a 1973 ford econoline van with a 302 that has carburetor to a 302 off a 1992 Ford Econoline EFi upper intake plenum? In order to convert it efi having the computers and connections
I have a 302 5.0 HO (88) with the Fel-Pro gaskets should I use RTV sealant on the water jackets? And is it better to use or RTV instead of the Fel-Pro front and back gasket on the bottom end
Comp does good stuff. Personally I have never ha a problem with break in on cams. I know that the BB Chevy, Ford 429/460 and the Cleveland can experience issues with flat spotting on flat tappets, but that is due more to the valve train angle than the cam.
Any specific reason I should remove the distributor even though it doesn't go through the manifold? Just a question before replacing my intake manifold on a 289.
It maybe in the way when you try to lift the intake off. And, it most likely will be in the way if you try to set the intake straight down on the block/heads. If you have the older 302 block/heads, you generally don’t use a gasket on the ends (block portion). You use a 1/4” bead of RTV. This makes straight down installation of the intake critical.
I did this to my 302 and now I can’t get it to start. I took pictures and labeled wires to make sure everything went back correctly. I have not checked my spark plugs yet which is the only other thing I can think of. Any suggestions?
I prefer the forgiving nature of separate gaskets to a pan gasket. Sometimes those pan gaskets can cause leaks. The only real advantage of a pan gasket is the fact that it will keep some of the hot oil off the bottom of the intake. But to me the hassle of install and the potential for oil leaks and even vacuum leaks is greater with those gaskets
there is a port the middle of the cylinder head, It has one on each side on the middle top. what is that port for? The gasket they used covers it half way. 14:09 middle top of the cylinder head.
I thought, I blow the gasket... I have a lil bit of smoke stain from a port. one port is fully cover and one open a bit. no milky oil or coolant leak. Thanks For Replying Back!!!
To find id an intake is good or bad, take the intake and place it on a completely flat surface. If it "tips" when pressed down on or is raised up at a corner, the intake is warped. Also look for broken tabs etc. sure signs of abuse. Most of the time your gaskets can suck up minor issue but sometimes that isn't going tho be the case.
Harbor Freight has a 1/4" inch pound torque wrench as well as a 3/8" foot pound torque wrench that are fairly accurate, not so much at the lowest settings, for reasonable prices. Better than a peck in the head with a sharp rock.
@@AutoRestoMod you rock. I bought it for my daughter we're building it together so when she turns 18 she has a car she can work on and knows every inch of it, but mainly has a nice rare classic car.
I know what I'm doing and I'd prefer to not have to try and squeeze that intake into place behind the distributor. I'd rather do as Ford did and lower the intake onto the studs at the four corners and then put the distributor back in...as Ford intended.
could not disagree more about the rtb vs felpro. even then, you did not apply the rtb correctly. read the label, it takes a few minutes to stiffen up before tightening the parts to kiss. then you wait a day before torquing. you should have just put the correct gaskets on there and torqued it down. now all that splooged rtb on the inside can come undone and have fun in your lube chambers.
Most aftermarket intakes are not a tight fit on the bolts. I will say that on factory cast iron I agree, we do never seize on the shanks of the bolts, particularly on FE big blocks.
@@AutoRestoMod the way you take care of your motors, you will probably have that thing taken apart and redone many times long before you would ever experience a failure with either method. have fun
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
I never will forget pulling an intake and finding the valley full of red rags
Thanks guys, I am having a go at it due to suspected vacuum leak, this video will really help me get it right.
My two cents. I put a small bead of RTV around each of the four water ports (both sides of the gasket).
Absolutely. heads that are 50 years old have misshapen corroded water ports with gashes and the gasket by itself won't cut it
Good idea with the tin foil at 9:25 , keep up the great work !
Thanks, will do!
Great automotive ingenuity on the guide pins from old bolts!
love the show guys. been watching for a lil while now n I love it.
nice work on directing and most importantly thank you being ALIVE! alot of shows are just the same mundane hooplah with monotoned tool bags lol
HAHAHA, we try to keep it light and fun.
Couple of things: With some engines, if you bybass the heater core with just running a loop with the hoses, the cooling is affected badly when there is no longer anything to resist the coolant flow. Water always takes the easiest route. I use marine seals for the intake manifold, with these, as they have telltale channels at the coolant passage areas, if someone forgets to put rtv around those passage sealing areas, the coolant drips out and not into the engine or to the closest intake. Depending of the seal type and construction used, to avoid intake leaks ,putting rtv around every intake port is not a bad idea, because, as in this video, usually people just put the manifold back without checking the straightness. With aluminum manifolds, the previous owner may have used wrong torq specs. Here in Finland, the emissions test of the MOT is strict, and any intake leak will rise the HC to the fail point. Only to be found at the MOT, as my tester measures only CO.
The aluminum foil is something I will use next time, I usually use just old towel, but it can be used for somethung else instead. Easier to vacuum. As someone mentioned, with the Ford distributor the manifold can be removed without removing the distributor, as for the first timers, noticing the rotation needed because of the distributor gears may cause problems. I use the GM HEI with Ford foot with these as it is a one wire job. That thing is so big that it has to come off first to easily replace the manifold. And, for some reason, I found 351's to be easier to put back without any leaks. Something to do with the dimensions/geometry...
I made my own distributor wrench half inch on one side 9/16 the other it was a long box on both ends wrench so I heated and hooked a about 75dg bend in both ends one ford one Chevy lol works for me had it for years hasn't let me down yet .. I get some kind of satisfaction from that even if the wrench is not expensive just feel better when I can make one that cost me considerably less sometimes we all have to improvise especially when money is an object and I grew up broke and it's how I learned to work on stuff lol now now we don't use a Rock as a hammer but a small amount of improvising on occasion .. my mentor back then used to mess with me when he saw me doing things like using the ratchet or the channel locks to tap on something you know .. he would say. Yep just like general motors does it just grab a rock and hit that there thing a few good times you'll get it .. lmao night all
Thanks for this video, I just replaced the gasket on my 65 Falcon with a 302.
I prefer the red RTV (Permatex) versus the black. Seals just as well, but easier to remove if you have to go back in.
It’s easier to check the age of the block; code is by the starter (roller versus flat tappet). Also pop the valve covers and check the date on the heads.
The main trick to torque on a Ford intake is from the inside out I learned that the hard way on my first Ford intake, loosen all the bolts and redo it the right way thus no intake leak.
Love the show. I'm of the opinion that you should clean parts. 5 mins cleaning up that intake manifold would have quickly noticed future leaks or worse yet a messed reinstallation. While doing the intake should have done the valve cover gaskets at same time. Those will go next and carb and was out of the way when you could have done it. Cleaned the valve covers and the entire top of your engine would have looked refreshed and maintained.
Thinks for the kind words! We did clean the intake, but the aluminum was molted and would have required bead or sandblasting; something that Cam was not interested in doing..deisel mechanic, go figure. The valve cover idea is a good one. We had just replaced them so didn't think to cover that.
You actually don't have to remove the distributor on a small block Ford! Have taken my intake off a few times. Never removed it once! Just have to be careful!👍
True, but it is a lot easier to install with the distributor out of the way.
Yeah on a stand like that no problem but in the car definetely a lot easier w out the distributor in the way especially the one I'm working on its a gm hei. Made for small block ford big cap right in the way ..
good jobs dude, like the tips with gaskets and guide pins. animo!
18:10 never really sure where the rtv really is... That's why you put some on both sides ... Move it a very tiny bit back and forth once or twice so it gets where it needs to be and its as mint as it gets ...
No worries about the break in with a roller cam tho no zinc either and you can get a lot better cam profile with better idle characteristics and still get the performance like. A long duration short L.S.A over a flat tappet and I've heard there's been a big problem with aftermarket flat tappet cams failing at an alarming rate ..
But it is a lot more expensive.
I went ahead and spent 2 extra bucks and got four 3” - 4” 5/16 bolts and cut the heads off for guide studs , easier to take out. Oh, when torquing without a proper torque wrench you need to say “click- click” for better accuracy.
I think that some of the AMK bolt kits actually come with the studs for the 4 end positions. But honestly your method works really well too lol.
The video people need is what does each port in a intake manifold is for
hey Jeff, today I was tightening down my brand new manifold to my freshly machined heads ( ford 289). as I was tightening one of the bolts I heard a snap. what happened is that the top part of the thread popped off. it seems the bolts were too short and only gripped a few threads and broke off when I tightened them. question 1 - since most of the thread is still there will it be OK? question 2 - what size bolts should I be using?
I'd probably personally get a set of AMK factory style bolts the kit is around $25.00. Keep in mind that the AMK kit has studs for the four corners to allow ease of install.
Can you take the intake off without removing the carburetor?
I don't gotten through the 1st 5 minutes but I always mark where of the Rotor is pointing when you pull the distributor out because it will twist on the camshaft. 4:20 mark see rotate
I have a old 289 ,that intake manifold should fit my 88 mustang 5.0 right.i am going carburetor.
What would happen if debris were to fall in the holes in the lifter valley when cleaning the old gasket material?
My son and i took out the old intake, and i asked him to clean the old material. He sprayed the entire lifter valley with degreaser and scraped everything clean. Some of the debris went into the holes at the bottom of the lifter valley before i realized what had happened.
Can’t be mad at him, he did what he thought was right.
If it were me I think I would do a diesel flush first. I'd pour the diesel down the ports where the debris would have gone. No guarantee that this is going to work though. I would then probably pull the oil pan and check the pan for debris. Then I would do a fresh oil change and pull the distributor and Use a drill to pump up the oil system. This will keep you from hopefully burning any bearings.
Great vids guys . We have had some mustangs over the years. But now we are into mavericks. We get more people stop and talk to us than we ever did with the fastback mustang we had. Would be cool if you work on a maverick. P.S still love a Mustang.
We had a Comet GT, but had to give it up in a business deal. LOVE those and Grabber Maverick.
I have a 72 Comet and take all the "Nice Maverick" comments in stride!
So do the manifold gaskets get installed dry?
So you did not us the gasket on the front and back of the block? Just rtv
Is it possible to swap put the upper intake manifold off of a 1973 ford econoline van with a 302 that has carburetor to a 302 off a 1992 Ford Econoline EFi upper intake plenum? In order to convert it efi having the computers and connections
Where do you put the seal do you put it on the manifold or do you put on the engine
I'd put it on the engine.
Hey Beavis, he said sponge.
Where did you get those gaskets for where the manifold meets the block? First time I've ever seen ones that weren't cork.
Over the counter Fel Pro.
Got a part number? Can't find them at AutoZone Advance or O'Reilly
I have a 302 5.0 HO (88) with the Fel-Pro gaskets should I use RTV sealant on the water jackets? And is it better to use or RTV instead of the Fel-Pro front and back gasket on the bottom end
I use the head part of the gaskets and then use black RTV on the front and back. It gives a great seal and can be cleaned up nicely.
Murphy's law...When your hands are greasy. or you can't quit what your'e doing...your nose itches, or you have to go potty.
Noticed he mentioned that hydraulic cams nowadays (non-roller) were made of cheap stuff, are any still made with good material?
Comp does good stuff. Personally I have never ha a problem with break in on cams. I know that the BB Chevy, Ford 429/460 and the Cleveland can experience issues with flat spotting on flat tappets, but that is due more to the valve train angle than the cam.
Any specific reason I should remove the distributor even though it doesn't go through the manifold? Just a question before replacing my intake manifold on a 289.
It maybe in the way when you try to lift the intake off. And, it most likely will be in the way if you try to set the intake straight down on the block/heads. If you have the older 302 block/heads, you generally don’t use a gasket on the ends (block portion). You use a 1/4” bead of RTV. This makes straight down installation of the intake critical.
That sucks Cam your heater core blew up from doing a burn out. Never heard of that happen before
It can happen.
When it comes to doing burnouts it seems anything can happen 🤣
I did this to my 302 and now I can’t get it to start. I took pictures and labeled wires to make sure everything went back correctly. I have not checked my spark plugs yet which is the only other thing I can think of. Any suggestions?
Timing off? Maybe the distributor spun a bit when it was put back in
I know this video is old, but I noticed that you didn't Rtv your water ports? Do they need rtv or can the gasket handle the job?
Gaskets are up to the task as long as the surfaces are level.
Thank you!
@@AutoRestoMod what if there is pitting on the head side?
I always rtv the the water ports. Why risk a leak for 2 minutes work.
Why didn't you use the valley pan gasket? Im getting ready to do mine and trying to figure out what gasket to use?
I prefer the forgiving nature of separate gaskets to a pan gasket. Sometimes those pan gaskets can cause leaks. The only real advantage of a pan gasket is the fact that it will keep some of the hot oil off the bottom of the intake. But to me the hassle of install and the potential for oil leaks and even vacuum leaks is greater with those gaskets
@@AutoRestoMod are you talking about the little blue gaskets shown in the begging of the video?
Is it try you have to put crank at TDC prior to removing the distributor?
Mark the rotor position (where the metal end is pointing to) on the distributor housing, and mark the housing to block position, no need to go to TDC.
Thank you so much. Been watching your videos and they are great!
Getting ready to do this to my 302 5.0 glad I watched the video
there is a port the middle of the cylinder head, It has one on each side on the middle top. what is that port for? The gasket they used covers it half way. 14:09 middle top of the cylinder head.
That provides hot exhaust gases to help with warm up. The top of the gasket is the top of the port.
I thought, I blow the gasket... I have a lil bit of smoke stain from a port. one port is fully cover and one open a bit. no milky oil or coolant leak. Thanks For Replying Back!!!
No worries, hope that you get it figured out.
how do you know if the intake mainfold is bad does it have a vaccum leak
To find id an intake is good or bad, take the intake and place it on a completely flat surface. If it "tips" when pressed down on or is raised up at a corner, the intake is warped. Also look for broken tabs etc. sure signs of abuse. Most of the time your gaskets can suck up minor issue but sometimes that isn't going tho be the case.
did u see he didn't u the blue gaskets he just used RTV like really
Yes...really.
Harbor Freight has a 1/4" inch pound torque wrench as well as a 3/8" foot pound torque wrench that are fairly accurate, not so much at the lowest settings, for reasonable prices. Better than a peck in the head with a sharp rock.
We discussed doing that. We want to get a really nice, accurate one.
Does this apply to a 260?
I'm rebuilding a '63 Mercury Meteor 260v8. Never done anything ford before.
Yes it does.
@@AutoRestoMod you rock. I bought it for my daughter we're building it together so when she turns 18 she has a car she can work on and knows every inch of it, but mainly has a nice rare classic car.
Honestly... if you know what you’re doing, you do not have to pull the distributor... well not in a small block Ford.
I know what I'm doing and I'd prefer to not have to try and squeeze that intake into place behind the distributor. I'd rather do as Ford did and lower the intake onto the studs at the four corners and then put the distributor back in...as Ford intended.
what murphy do for living after school boy
Cam is a diesel mechanic for his full time job.
could not disagree more about the rtb vs felpro. even then, you did not apply the rtb correctly. read the label, it takes a few minutes to stiffen up before tightening the parts to kiss. then you wait a day before torquing. you should have just put the correct gaskets on there and torqued it down. now all that splooged rtb on the inside can come undone and have fun in your lube chambers.
also you didnt antiseize anything
Well, I can appreciate your point. But I disagree.
Most aftermarket intakes are not a tight fit on the bolts. I will say that on factory cast iron I agree, we do never seize on the shanks of the bolts, particularly on FE big blocks.
@@AutoRestoMod the way you take care of your motors, you will probably have that thing taken apart and redone many times long before you would ever experience a failure with either method. have fun
Icy Uranus shut up🙄
Great video! But I stopped hearing everything he said after those fingerprints on the windshield! Wtf dude?!
Hard cringe watching him use that scraper to clean it up.