I've Used the WRONG Camera Batteries for 15 years!!!!
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- Опубліковано 17 лип 2023
- In this video, I'm going to shares with you the one secret to finding the right type of battery for your camera. If you use the wrong kind of battery, your camera can be ruined and you'll never be able to take pictures again!
Finding the right type of battery for your camera is 100% key if you want to take pictures without worrying about your camera being ruined. In this video, I'm going to show you how to identify the right kind of battery for your camera and how to use it properly. After watching this video, you'll be able to take pictures without worrying about your camera being ruined!
This video was made possible by MOMAN Power99 Pro
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I recently bought a Moman battery for my documentary rig. It powers the camera, external monitor and audio equipment and lasts a about 4 hours, which for me is more than enough. Now I just need to buy a few more.
Thanks for another great video. I like a little run-and-gun flexibility so the moderate size and USB option is great. I've seen people on video productions rocking v-mounts on a belt adapter (just make sure you don't drop your trousers mid-shoot).
Good advice, cheers Scott. By the way, love the Bond baddie look. 😉
These are amazing! I have a moman 99, a 140 and a 210. I use them for my Godox constant lights. They’re awesome.
Excellent topic!
on a much lower level, I finally got a powerbank with a percentage display. It is fairly accurate, and it is so comforting to know that, e.g., if it is at 35% I still get a full phone charge out of it. The camera indicators or indicator lights on the battery were always inaccurate to the point that I never felt confident unless they were fully charged.
These seem pretty good solutions for the kit you are using. However more modern camera bodies (I can only speak for Fuji out of personal experience, but I believe it to be true for other brands as well) can be powered via the USB C port. This gives you lots of options including being powered by your computer when shooting tethered. As the battery remains in the camera then you can continue shooting if you loose USB power.
I haven’t taken my batteries out of my Fuji since I got the battery grip
I have fried a Fuji xs10 camera using an off-brand tethering cable that also charges the camera. After that, I switched to the real TetherTools cable and while data transfer and live view is much faster, the cable doesn’t charge the camera while shooting.
And the usb c connection on the camera is used for tethered shooting so it can’t be charged that way. ..
@@martinekwall4671 I use a USB C cable to simultaneously carry power and data every day.
@@martinekwall4671you can charge and transfer data simultaneously over USB depending on the cable
Great video.
Not nearly as intense but I invested in some things to make my charging more convenient. I do portrait photography.
Until now, I had chargers scattered around my room. My nightmare was I’d forget about one of the chargers and the battery that was in it. Then rush off to a photo shoot and forget a battery.
I bought two Kastar dual-battery chargers for my LP-E6 batteries that plug in via USB. Then I bought an Anker power strip that has 2 USB ports, 1 USB-C port and 6 electric outlets.
The USB ports are for charging my camera batteries. The electric outlets are for charging the lithium ion batteries for my Godox V860 II flashes and AA batteries for my Godox XPro flash trigger.
It is so nice to to have all my charging done in one place. I can see all my batteries and won’t forget one.
Also got a battery pouch to hold my batteries. That goes in my backpack.
Made a video about charging too. Glad I’m not the only one who thought it was worth making a video about this.
For in-studio work, I use a battery power station that has AC outlets and USB-C. I placed the power station at the base of my wheeled-tripod so cords don’t become tripping hazards. Then at the end of the day I roll it to an electrical outlet to charge overnight.
I've just bought an USB-C * LP E6 dummy + a USB-C Power Bank. Seems to run for a while but my sessions are rarely longer than 3-4 hours. It takes ages to charge (8h +)
Hey Scott, thanks for the informative video. I would like to ask, how did you connect your 5dsr to the moman battery pack? Is it through the dummy battery as well?
That is correct
I don’t know if it’s a Canon thing, or if it’s a dslr thing, I shoot my Fuji tethered and it charges/powers through the very same tether cable, so this is one area that I haven’t had to worry about at all, honestly. I would assume (or hope?) that newer cameras with usb-c do that out of the box by now, or maybe it’s not all brands/models..?
After seven months of photography the only power issue I've encountered was seeing I had a half a charge before I left to shoot and within 20 or so minutes my battery died, so I bought a second battery and now always take a freshly charged battery with me as a backup
I got recently canon R8 and you can power it via USB cable. No problem with studio work. Only outside.
Your points, all extremely relevant.
As to USB charging, by now there are several generations of USB fast charge and it is extremely important to know a few details. By default, the USB bus is run at 5V and lowish mA. Then there are two camps of quick charge: PD and QC where each have their different generations that raised the maximum voltage and mA (V*A=W) over time. We can relay up to about 100W of power over a selected USB cable today. BUT. Now your battery in, or on, the camera has "battery management" in a chip/controller that does two things: (a) it manages the recharging of individual cells in the pack and (b) it "communicates" with the charging device about what it can handle, or needs. This again means that the "protocol" (interface communication language) in the battery and the recharger must be the same.
It does not end there, because even the connectors in your USB cable will have a chip that informs about its power handling capability and consequently this must be a protocol understood on either end of that cable. And in case of a protocol mismatch or a cable without the chips, everything falls back to basic dumb USB default of 5V and low mA (maybe up to 1A = 1,000mA and so 5V*1A=5W max [1]). In some PD or QC version, I believe the V can rise to 18V and to get to 100W this means that A must rise to 5.6A (because 100/18=5.555..). And, no, your old basic USB cable cannot relay that, cannot handle that.
The dummy battery solution is a simple solution for cameras where it's available. As I shoot Nikon, the camera brand and 3rd parties had a dummy available for a long time. All bodies with the EN-EL15 battery will be fine in that sense. As you mention "hot swap", I was wondering how you do this. As long live view (i.e. video and mirrorless stills) sessions demand more and more, Nikon have an optional grip for their mirrorless bodies on EN-EL15 battery - the grip holds two of these batteries and the one sitting deepest is only used when the front one is empty - thus the deeper battery actually facilitates hot swap of the front one.
The newest Nikon Z 8 has two USB-C ports: one only for charging or external power and the other one for all sorts of comms - like USB tethering or an Ethernet adapter. This allows you to simply plug a cheap USB powerbank into the camera and those powerbanks generally have an indication or remaining charge.
A Nikon Z 9 has an integrated grip and this facilitates a battery that has both higher Voltage and higher mAh - double the mWh of an EN-EL15. That Z 9 runs a very long time on a single battery charge.
Some dummy batteries may allow you to connect, say, a cheap USB power bank. My cheap 10,000 mAh thus gives me 5 times the charge of an original Nikon branded EN-EL15 (version b or c).
Flash, speedlights and AA. As I set up a studio based on "no cables on the floor and 100% portable", knowing how good my images are still at ISO 800 or even 1600, and depth of field in small format is plenty - unlike 8"*10" where you need 600mm for a portrait lens or your nifty fifty is 350mm - I built my studio on "on-camera" speedlights [2] as light source with remote control over 3 to 6 groups of them. No need for 1,200 Joule (=Watt.seconds=W.s=Ws) or 2,400 studio packs and consequently no fat cables on the floor. I do miss the proportional modelling light, though. The speedlight approach escalated into a battery problem in several ways. I needed optional add-on battery packs for much faster recycle times and more flashes per charge, and this brought the AA battery count to 12 per speedlight. With eneloops being great, I bought these bundled with a 4 AA charger - and it turns out some of these batteries are drained too much into a state where the "blind" charger cannot recover the batteries from (I call that hibernation). With 12 speedlights I now need to recharge 144 batteries. In the meantime, cheap battery powered monoheads are available, now with good enough accuracy in flash duration/power and in colour temperature, so that is the next version of the studio. And I found out that IKEA sells alternatives for the eneloops at a tiny fraction of the price. The recharging problem could only be solved with a processor controlled recharger that displays battery and charge state for individual batteries, and has a recovery mode. I have had to use the recovery mode some 30 times over the years and with "blind" recharge devices I would never have been able to pick the bad one out and run that individually in recovery mode. Individual batteries going into hibernation would have become a big frustrating issue, if I had not bought the processor-based rechargers with per-cell display.
As I found a recharger that has 16 AA slots, I now have 7 of these - two on a drawer plate and 4 of these drawers in a box that is the size of a studio pack - oh irony. It was not cheap and the box made by handyman wasn't either. The advantage of many speedlights is that I can distribute them and hide them from the camera in larger spaces, and not worry about the inverse square law, but TBH after years I still need to do that for the first time.
[1] Imagine a 10,000 mAh (=10Ah) rated USB powerbank. At the default of 5V this "10,000" says that the pack has 5V*10Ah=50Wh 9=1/20 kWh) in it. If you want to recharge that battery bank with default USB (no PD, no QC) USB power then that will probably get you 5W charge power. This means you need more than 10 hours to get to 50Wh because there are losses and the battery bank's internal resistance increases with increasing charge, so 14 hours is more likely now. With a USB charger that can run at 2A this then becomes 7 hours. Or, you really need a battery-cable-charger trio that all have enough capability and all speak the same protocol in order to get top speed.
[2] my camera brand speedlights at full power and a flash angle for a 35mm full frame lens compare to about 75 Ws (I would rate a Profoto, God Ox, Westcott, Flashpoint, etc. top on camera speedlight at 50 Ws and that's only 0.5 EV less). As the EV range is on a 2-base log basis, 1,200 Ws is only 4 EV better than 75. If you would need the full 1,200 J of your studio pack for f/45 on your 8"*10" lens, then that compares to f/11 for 75 Ws. Go to f/8 and instead of ISO 100 shoot at ISO 400 and you have very fast recycle times and very long lasting batteries with the speedlights.
I purchased a GoPro Hero 10 about a few years ago and both the batteries that came with it swelled up and were no longer usable. I went with the higher capacity (grey) batteries and they seem much better. However, I am now using a power brick and it can now last for a few hours. Not that I ever shoot for that long. So now I am going back to shoot with my Canon 70D at 1080 and I need more power. I like your idea on power management. Precautions need to be in place to prevent accidental disruption. I run my cables through one of those floor electrical cord protectors and it protects everything including people from tripping. If you are wondering why a Canon 70D at 1080, it’s because I used”Topaz” to upscale in post if I need it at a higher quality. I cannot tell the difference between shooting native 4K and the upscale. And, in the end, I don’t need a bunch of storage drives (primary’s and backups). Note: Videography and photography is a hobby for me.
in my studio i have a charging station were all the chargers are always in power with a battery on them.
as soon as i have to change a battery i take one from the charger and replace it with the empty one.
Your best setup seems to be Wall->battery charger with one of those big batteries charging->camera dummy battery. This way the battery remains charged and you don't have to worry about pulling out the plug.
What brand is the jacket you wear. I really like your shirts/jackets :)
i saw a sony rx100 in the table? what do you use it for?
you don't use a dedicated V-lock charger?
They are great, charge quick too, some models can charge 8 batteries at the same time, I never have any issues that you talk about on set shooting film, powering all kind of stuffs on set..
BLUESHAPE Portable 4-Channel V-Mount Battery Charger is one among many..
If you are using batteries that can also be charged at the same time, e.g. via USB-C, then I would do a hybrid, For example, use the battles you have now or perhaps something smaller. You want something that can power everything for 15 minutes or so (or longer). Then supply it with A/C and charge the batteries at the same time. If the A/C gets disconnected, the batteries carry you through the time needed to reconnect the A/C. Think of your laptop. It has a battery but usually sits plugged in. If the A/C goes out or is unplugged, the laptop doesn’t care. It seamlessly switches to batter. Then when the A/C is plugged back in, it switches back AND recharges the battery.
Eventually everything is going towards USB-C PD and the “power banks” used for phones, etc are by far the cheapest per kWh and they are the most versatile.
Could You possibly show Your exaCT POWER SETUP ? LIKE bATTERY-HOLDER FOR BATTERY-STH THAT CONNECTS BATTERY WITH DUMMY BATTERY ?
i want a nuclear powered camera, just tiny nuclear powerplant inside the camera
I like your thinking about battery choice, but you still have cables going across the floor. See if you can drop them in from overhead to your camera stand.
It's probably easier than you might think, if you have lighting rails and I'd guess it's really worth the effort. Here's the story:
Decades ago, when I was a sprog in TV (Studio A, BBC Bristol, for live Animal Magic, Wildtrack, etc.), I often drove a Fisher sound boom. Their umbilicals were a real nuisance on the studio floor: everyone took care not to trip over a camera cable (big, fat, heavy and mostly guarded by camera assistants), but the sound umbilicals didn't look important,* and there weren't enough of us to keep an eye on them (and do our proper jobs at the same time).
One of my older colleagues remembered we'd got a pair of sound wallboxes up at lighting catwalk level. Experimentally, we rigged one of the two booms up there, and used a scenic hoist (essentially a lightweight gantry crane) to carry the cable so we had a near vertical drop to the boom platform - nothing running across the studio floor any more for people to stand on and cameras to complain about!
We never went back, and I am puzzled to this day why other studios didn't do the same.
There is one slight snag: obviously the sound boom never comes into the set from the key side, and we had some freedom to park the tricycle where it wasn't in the way of moving camera peds. This isn't true of an actual camera used for your type of work. So if you have a hard light coming in right over your head, a cable would obviously be a nuisance. But I'd guess this is unusual.
*a scruffy, home-made bundle of cables: sound t/b, prog. sound, actual mic output, switchable video feed, and mains. It was all held together with camera tape at about two foot intervals, which collected dirt - handle with gloves on!
All batteries are so hard to get shipped into Ireland which means you have to buy them from camera stores making them really expensive. A standard NPF battery with 6000mah will cost €100 while I could get a pair of Neewer ones with a charger for €40 but Amazon won't ship them to Ireland!!!!
Imagine a landscape photographer with those bricks strapped to their belt, luckily i dont have the requirements for humongous batteries but i have 4 standard sized ones in rotation which is a pain in the backside. I like product photography but it seems that to be able to perform at an acceptable level and stand a chance of success, the equipment needed and cost of set up is huge. The more of your videos i watch the more im convinced to just take up golf 😂
If there's no mains available for whatever reason I bought a 12 volt to 240 volt/ 3000 watt inverter and run stuff on the mains 240 voltage powered by a 12 volt car battery. Or a number of 12 volt car batteries in parallel. Like you do to run your TV and computer and microwave in a camper van. Car batteries are cheap and readily available anywhere.
Sony charges via the tethering cable no issues at all ever during shoots
Phase One is a battery hog. Requires 5-6 LIion batteries and 6 Aa batteries for the body. Havent found solution for this
Mainly a little cam problem, my Z9 live views all day on a battery, and it trckle charges through the area 51
Been through this quite recently before I purchased Olympus M1x. I have M5 Mk III. Sensors on both of these cameras are exactly the same, image quality is same, so why the upgrade for a camera which is 2x in size and weight?
1. M1x has two internal batteries and both can be charged in camera at the same time.
Just be sure you have USB-C charger with at least 18 Watt output. Both batteries can be fully charged in 2 hours. So if I need to travel for photoshoots, all I need is to pack proper USB charger.
Isnt there a risk that battery will bloat and you will not be able to get it out of the camera? Well, i prefer Olympus/OM system branded batteries, the cells themselves are made by Sony so I have complete trust in this feature.
2. M1x supports USB-PD
Means the camera can be powered through USB-C port using either USB power adapter with at least 35 Watt output, or from USB-PD compatible power bank. If in studio I can run on USB-PD indefinitely, out of power bank for hours.
To use this feature, at least one internal battery has to be present to start the camera and has at least 2%, a charge which will be in no time. So I can either hook a battery to camera, or to an adapter. M1x also have a port for an external power adapter made specifically for Olympus M1 flagships. Its just little bit expensive atm.
Both of these allows me to run the camera without using charge of internal batteries, therefore to remain prepared for unplanned photoshoot outside studio. Powerbank I use indicates percentage and can be fully charged in 4 hours, 30000mAh using 60W USB-PD.
I did not expected I will like these features so much. I usually used 2 batteries per day of shooting (not much I know). M1x has two processors so it drains larger batteries faster than M5, but overall I will not run out of battery mid-shoot...
I used the wrong shampoo for years! What do you recommend?
Since my camera is the charger, i charge the batteries while tethered thru the tether cable… and if i want to be mobile just throw a anker powerbank in my pocket to recharge the battery while still shooting if it starts getting low
luckily those days are gone as my camera gets charged when it is plugged in for tethering. I guess most brands allow this today?
I power my Phase One back via Firewire which I love!! BUT I have a CR123 NIGHTMARE with my Hasselblad H1. I HATE CR123 now!!! non-rechargeable, absolutely overpriced for what they are. I bought a pack in bulk and had to test them all. And worst of all, I have to pull my camera off the L bracket to change them... I'm going to build a dummy battery to USB-C plug for it since one does not exist for it. I like the idea of these mini V mounts a lot!
multiple quad chargers and a small mountain of LP-E6, like 30 of them or so. Its a nightmare but survivable.
I have a Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 7D Mark II, Canon R6 and a Canon
r6 Mark II. well I guess you can see I like a Mark II of Cameras but to be extremely honest I just have bought a lot of LP E6 and then all the new batteries as they are all backward compatible. I have finally bought an LP E6 dumb battery that ill try but I would rather have them a whole wack of chargers then get into the trial and error that you have been in.
Better late than never. Only 15 years to discover the hot water is a good score.
Batteries are Achilles’ heel of modern technology.
Im in the NPF stage
V mount batteries are so damn pricey.
I know you encourage people to buy used, but this is the one case where new has an advantage. New devices are all USB-C. It is simple to deal with power banks and batteries when everything is compatible with USB-C.
But they worked fine for 15 years…
They did, but our workflows drastically different on set to 15 years ago. We have live view running all day on set + capture pilot.
Why not use a AC/DC power adapter, so you can plug your camera straight to the wall? My 1dsmk2 came with one, i'm sure they exist for 5ds as well.
He covered that. Power cable getting kicked out.
Batteries are the most boring things? I don’t know about that. I’d say camera bags are even more boring. At least for those of us who travel. :-)
Until you discover f-stop that is
Canon very disappointed in you at the loss of sales of overpriced batteries. 😢😢😢