would have loved a before and after oil analysis 🤓🤓 would have been amazing to add to this video. thanks again for another video steve. always taking us to school.
I was thinking of a piece of flat bar shaped to the front making the mount like a T. It would help twisting and offer a place to mount something if needed.
Steve Morris engines, Lake Speed Jr. Is a triboligist. Lube oil guru. He taught me that with additives, the friction can go up and wear can go down. I can't wrap my head around that one.
I was gonna say that with the initial run or 2 the friction was higher just becasue the rev x is thick ( like heavier weight oil) and hadnt bonded to the metal yet. After the 3rd run it probably was back to thinned out after the Rev x bonded and wasnt still making the oil "thicker". ( so to speak). I know thinner oil definitely reduces friction overall.
I think the idea is that the additive coats the metal and increases friction from rubbing against itself while creating a barrier to reduce wear to the actual metal. Like how spraying bedliner on metal increases the friction between your shoe and the metal so you don’t slip, while creating a barrier that prevents wear to the actual bed
The better way to test this theory of friction up, wear down, is with a regular wear testing rig , similar to the unit project farm tests with., it monitors the electrical consumption, and you can measure the wear spot on the bearings..
@@MosinMan76254 I dunno, he just released a vid where he pretty much shit on all oil additives. I'd suspect he would say motor kote while good for nascar, doesnt apply to a non-nascar circumstance.
bend a tube to the angle of the engine plate and cut it in half long-ways and weld to the plate. you may even be able to do this on front and back with minimal interference
I would make the mount with the angle piece as you stated but would also add a top and bottom piece similar to how an I beam is made. Make sure it’s done as to spread the load so that you don’t have a high stress area than can prematurely fail from vibration and flex
I put REV X in my 115K mile 5.3 GMC with a catch can. I was draining it at least once between oil changes. I haven't had to drain it since running REV X. Also, same results in our 140K, 3.5 V6 Malibu. I also believe we picked up some MPGs as well. I can't verify do to lack of before and after. And I swear they both run out fantastic at cruise speeds. Support Steve's channel and take the Rev X for a test drive and report back with your results in your daily.
Gotta love that Big Black Block! Of course I'd prefer that Big Billet Block, but would definitely have some concerns about being able to use all of it.
Of course you're going to recommend it if you sell it and profit from it. I knew a guy back about 30 years ago when Slick-50 was the rage with its PTFE resins. He treated his lawn mower with it, drained all the oil out and fired it up, and let it run for 6 hours, shut it down so he wouldn't disturb his neighbors. Little did he know that that additive turned oil into some kind of acid (so I heard, I may not know what Im talking about) junked a lot of engines after prolonged use and retreating. I dont see Slick-50 anywhere today. You may have a legitimate product, but like Lake Speed Jr. Says "SNAKE OIL" ... He may be wrong about this product, even so, I wouldn't spend $37 to $75 plus shipping. for every oil change especially now with the astronomical price of oil that it is nowadays. Peace ✌️
Remember he’s not saying to put this in your daily Honda civic, he’s putting it 75-150k race engines where that $75 is nothing if it gets a bit of extra life out of the parts. Will it probably help in your daily as well? It’s possible, but the body will rot in half first so the potential life increase is never actualized. Since you’re clearly not a long time viewer there’s a story to how he came up to recommending this product, and before that he would have called it snake oil as well. 1 customer was getting better life out of components then the rest between engine refreshes, and the data logs will show it wasn’t because he was just taking it easy on the engine, the only difference was he was running rev X so Steve looked into it and became a believer. Now you can believe his promotion of it is honest or not, but this isn’t some over night thing that happened. Many additives really can actually help improve mileage or engine life, the problem with basically all of them that aren’t just snake oil is the cost of using it is more then the potential gain. That cost issue is not an issue when the engine costs a hundred grand.
My gen3 hemi loves that rev x additive. Only other additive I found that works is best line. My truck lives at 5500 to 7000 rpm. I drive 35 mins each way on the highway at 80mph with 510 gears. Doesn't miss a beat. I'll be ordering more in the next week or so
I remember back in the day when Slick 50 was all the rage. I tried it in my tow vehicle and lost most of my oil pressure in one day! Drained it out, new oil and filter and pressure came back.
I used Slick 50 in a 3 wheeler I bought for my wife back in 87. It was brand new with maybe an hour of run time on it. I added the Slick 50 and went out and rode it hard for about 30 minutes. As I was making my way back home I could tell a noticeable difference in how good it ran. It was faster and idled way smoother. I know it was breaking in but I've never seen a 3 wheeler run as good as that one did after the treatment.
Take a flat plate and curve it to follow the contoured curve of that mount and stitch weld it to the mount. Orient it in a T fitup. The curve and orientation will make it very resistant to torsion twist.
I think it was the overall fuel temperature change, making it lean out slightly as runs were made. probably a bit fat and leaning out tickled a few HP more, and back down after cooling.
i would be interested in the same test showing engine oil temperatures. We used a product YEARS ago that did the same thing you found in this testing but we noticed a 20-30 degree oil temp drop in an asphalt oval track car.
Roil Gold is another great friction reducing additive. I have been using it to reduce oil temperatures for over 30 years. It treats the metal and does not reduce bearing tollerances its extremely slippery stuff..
The only issue I have with rev-x is all oils have different chemical compositions and it may work with one oil to be better and may make a different oil worse.
Awesome Mr. Morris. Myself am very into innovative lubes and wear protectors added to good oil with noticeable results, is how we’ve gotten the winning recipes over the decades even though not all of them work. Would love to see a before and after on your SMX or SML after some good heat cycles.
When Rev-X is first blends with the oil , the lubrication package of the base oil is altered in a way to where it’s not reducing friction and oil temp. then once the Rev-X and the base oil are completely blended together that’s when you start seeing the benefits of the friction reduction at a molecular level bond.
Think of it like a ceramic coating for your paint but for steel it soaks into the pores of the steel and creates a friction layer and with less friction is less heat and that converts to HP and I’m sure it’s synthetic and all the molecules are the same size which creates a Even surface of film
Steve, I was thinking about that flexible front motor mount on the hemi boat motor. What if you were to take a 2" tubing, bend it to the shape of the center of each motor mount, cut it in half, and then, weld on each half tube to the front and back for rigidity. Another option may be to cut 1 1/2" tubing etc. and then, weld each half tube to the top front and bottom of each motor mount? Half tubes may have to be welded to the back of each motor mount too.
I love Steve Morris Engines. Steve is a great guy. He builds some really epic stuff, and has a top notch facility. Great company, and wonderful family! Where things go sort of south for me: If an oil company sells a lot of oil they are considered a profitable oil company... If they sell additives, they are doubly so. Additives make hand over fist more money then selling oil by the quart. It may work just as well as switching to synthetic oil from standard oil. Honestly, idk if I believe the modern day snake oil. I send samples in every 15k miles and things are going very well for my 100k mile all aluminum 6.0 Gen iv... No reason to double the cost of my oil changes. Now, if you guys with $100k under the hood want the protection, it's gonna cost you $75 for 5oz... If you want to pay the premium for your 3500hp engine, no problem with that. I rather buy gold. But no foul against the oil company for selling an additive. It sure does make for good profit of course, and maybe adding 10% to your engines already short life cycle? Maybe? I would love to see a long term test with someone using this stuff with every oil change and list of how many passes they have made before having to tear down and swap out bearings, rods, rings, pistons, lifters etc. The real test would be to compare a fairly similar pass count engine to one that does use this stuff. See what the parts look like at the "end" of their life cycle. Cheers
back in the late 70's or early 80;swhen pro- blend came out i sold a lot of it and personally used it in my 496 bb chev brkt car and a friends 482 bb chev brkt car . with engines hot and idleing we added it to the oil and in 2 or 3 minute s rpm;s pick up a couple hundred. so with todays knowledge no doubt it will make more power. maybe the 532 has really tight clearances ana 2 pulls wasn't enough time for it to mix well enough ...just a thought
I bought a bottle of Rev X but have not tried it yet. If I gain 5 HP it's a big deal. I tried some thinner full synthetic oil but did not see any power gain. I was told the thinner oil (that I used) needed to be at a higher temp for it to show any HP gains.
@steve Morris engines In Europe we have something similar. its called METABOND. We use it in our car and racecars. it is magical. no oil presure and no damage to the engine. it needs 600 miles to fully integrate.
You could make those hemi motor plates out of say 1 inch aluminum and mill most of it down to 1/2 inch so you have strengthening ribs. It would cost a bit but make it pretty strong.
Here's one for the RevX guys. Friend has a 6 cylinder overhead cam boat engine built in the early 1950's. Has developed a backfire through the carburetor. I believe it's from running for years on first low lead then no lead fuel. Expect to see galled valve guides when we get the head apart. There is also some camshaft galling. We will be running RevX in it when we get it back together!
Not at all related to this vid, but clikb8 is in the country (from Oz), and being a wagon I'm assuming you will have some interest in going for a skid with Mick Hinchy if the opportunity arises. I hope you read this and pursue the chance of such an experience.
Very interesting! Most such products use PTFE, MOS2 or similar. One thing though: They told you it doesn’t increase horsepower, that’s not what it’s about. But their packaging says “Increases Power & Torque”. They should remove that then! Just saying. Best wishes
Motocross Action reported a test on a Husqvarna 450 motocross bike. The Rev X man bought a used bike. Rode it, then put 2 Oz Rev X in it. Ran it for a while. Let cool and then ran again. Then took the radiators off, drained the coolant and the a MA test rider rode in 90 degree heat for about 40 min til it stopped. They let it cool. Then trail rode for 35 min til it stopped. Then disassembled the engine on video and found no scuffing, galling or wear. I bought 2 bottles for my dirt bikes immediately. Then did an oil change on my 6.2l 2022 Silverado and put a bottle in that. Took the same 1300 mile trip I do every year and got almost 1 mpg better. I believe!
Boxing those engine plates seems like a chore. If i could do anything more than replace parts and type i'd be trying to box it in chambers. Like notch the plates to take 3 or 4 rows of tabbed 1/2-1" risers that follow the arc of the plate. Then slap another notched plate on the front of that for a chambered engine plate sandwhich. Do it Big Mac style above the heads.
Weld in Triangular gusset’s to that plate from the mount point back towards the block. Sized to suit the header’s & or mount/service impediment issues. No flex guaranteed, like a boxed 9 inch diff. 🤔…Unless it’s fitted to an SMX…✨🛠✨
Would you be willing to share the combo specs of that big block chevy for guys like me to compare with ? I'll most likely never get on a dyno but it helps to make educated guesses. thanks
Why did it look like it lost 30 pounds oil pressure right before you let off , may be the last 500 RPM. Or am I missing something? I used Rex-X for years in my diesel shop before I retired.
What i don't understand is headers for some type of endurance application yet crank stroke and rpm that would make this thing eat pistons from piston speed????
YOU NEED TO USE THE "ENGINE MOUNT" AS A TEMPLATE AND MAKE SURE IT FITS. THEN FAB A REAL MOTORMOUNT UP OUT OF ADEQUATITLY SIZED AND APPROPIATE [STAINLESS?] MATERIAL 1 INCH THICK IS WHERE I WOULD LOOK. PIPE ADDED AT THE "FLEX" BRACKET AND GUSSET!
Steve-"Its dead consistent"
Motor-"you sure about that" 😂
lol 😂
Those green headers on that black motor look sick!
would have loved a before and after oil analysis 🤓🤓 would have been amazing to add to this video. thanks again for another video steve. always taking us to school.
So for the motor mounts, put another piece of angle iron to triangulate it. And it should keep it from twisting after that.
I was thinking of a piece of flat bar shaped to the front making the mount like a T. It would help twisting and offer a place to mount something if needed.
Steve Morris engines, Lake Speed Jr. Is a triboligist. Lube oil guru. He taught me that with additives, the friction can go up and wear can go down. I can't wrap my head around that one.
I was gonna say that with the initial run or 2 the friction was higher just becasue the rev x is thick ( like heavier weight oil) and hadnt bonded to the metal yet. After the 3rd run it probably was back to thinned out after the Rev x bonded and wasnt still making the oil "thicker". ( so to speak). I know thinner oil definitely reduces friction overall.
Yep and he just did a video testing alot of them
I think the idea is that the additive coats the metal and increases friction from rubbing against itself while creating a barrier to reduce wear to the actual metal. Like how spraying bedliner on metal increases the friction between your shoe and the metal so you don’t slip, while creating a barrier that prevents wear to the actual bed
The better way to test this theory of friction up, wear down, is with a regular wear testing rig , similar to the unit project farm tests with., it monitors the electrical consumption, and you can measure the wear spot on the bearings..
The oil is not thicker, it's stickier so the film is not going away and it will resist a lot more to cavitation
Curious to know what Lake Speed Jr thinks about this RevX stuff...
I commented on his vid about this same subject
He likes Motor Kote. Nascar used it instead of oil for qualifying for many years. I've been using it and swear by it.
@@MosinMan76254 I dunno, he just released a vid where he pretty much shit on all oil additives. I'd suspect he would say motor kote while good for nascar, doesnt apply to a non-nascar circumstance.
You guys are reading my mind. Except for the part about shit on the additives. I guess one man's shit is another man's test.
This was my first thought.
Awesome video...keep living the dream ✨️
Ribbing engine brace like early gearbox cross members. Added over 3 times the strength, over a lengthy brace helps heaps
bend a tube to the angle of the engine plate and cut it in half long-ways and weld to the plate. you may even be able to do this on front and back with minimal interference
I would make the mount with the angle piece as you stated but would also add a top and bottom piece similar to how an I beam is made. Make sure it’s done as to spread the load so that you don’t have a high stress area than can prematurely fail from vibration and flex
I put REV X in my 115K mile 5.3 GMC with a catch can. I was draining it at least once between oil changes. I haven't had to drain it since running REV X. Also, same results in our 140K, 3.5 V6 Malibu. I also believe we picked up some MPGs as well. I can't verify do to lack of before and after. And I swear they both run out fantastic at cruise speeds. Support Steve's channel and take the Rev X for a test drive and report back with your results in your daily.
Gotta love that Big Black Block! Of course I'd prefer that Big Billet Block, but would definitely have some concerns about being able to use all of it.
Of course you're going to recommend it if you sell it and profit from it. I knew a guy back about 30 years ago when Slick-50 was the rage with its PTFE resins. He treated his lawn mower with it, drained all the oil out and fired it up, and let it run for 6 hours, shut it down so he wouldn't disturb his neighbors. Little did he know that that additive turned oil into some kind of acid (so I heard, I may not know what Im talking about) junked a lot of engines after prolonged use and retreating. I dont see Slick-50 anywhere today. You may have a legitimate product, but like Lake Speed Jr. Says "SNAKE OIL" ... He may be wrong about this product, even so, I wouldn't spend $37 to $75 plus shipping. for every oil change especially now with the astronomical price of oil that it is nowadays. Peace ✌️
Remember he’s not saying to put this in your daily Honda civic, he’s putting it 75-150k race engines where that $75 is nothing if it gets a bit of extra life out of the parts. Will it probably help in your daily as well? It’s possible, but the body will rot in half first so the potential life increase is never actualized.
Since you’re clearly not a long time viewer there’s a story to how he came up to recommending this product, and before that he would have called it snake oil as well. 1 customer was getting better life out of components then the rest between engine refreshes, and the data logs will show it wasn’t because he was just taking it easy on the engine, the only difference was he was running rev X so Steve looked into it and became a believer. Now you can believe his promotion of it is honest or not, but this isn’t some over night thing that happened. Many additives really can actually help improve mileage or engine life, the problem with basically all of them that aren’t just snake oil is the cost of using it is more then the potential gain. That cost issue is not an issue when the engine costs a hundred grand.
My gen3 hemi loves that rev x additive. Only other additive I found that works is best line. My truck lives at 5500 to 7000 rpm. I drive 35 mins each way on the highway at 80mph with 510 gears. Doesn't miss a beat. I'll be ordering more in the next week or so
Man, you don't pass a single gas station. 😂
@@Ole_CornPop6.8mpg at 80mph lol. 9 at 65mph
@@bigblockjess617 My man! 🤘🇺🇲💪.. Make Gallons to the Mile great again 😂
I get better then that with my semi lol
Your engine loves it in what capacity? You’ve had multiple oil analysis done? You have before and after bearing wear to compare to? Genuinely curious.
thanks for sharing Steve!
Good to see real results. Good, bad or indifferent.. data tells sll.
I am using it in my SMX on sick summer drag and drive just went and raced braggin rights bearings look like new!
I remember back in the day when Slick 50 was all the rage. I tried it in my tow vehicle and lost most of my oil pressure in one day! Drained it out, new oil and filter and pressure came back.
I used Slick 50 in a 3 wheeler I bought for my wife back in 87. It was brand new with maybe an hour of run time on it. I added the Slick 50 and went out and rode it hard for about 30 minutes. As I was making my way back home I could tell a noticeable difference in how good it ran. It was faster and idled way smoother. I know it was breaking in but I've never seen a 3 wheeler run as good as that one did after the treatment.
I still have some of their grease, I used it on my bicycle hubs.
For the Hemi mounts, get some 2-inch tubes to bend it shape cut down the middle and weld the of the plate with triangulated piece on the back!
Hope you get some videos of the Hemi in the 🚣♀️ steve ok bud have a great Thursday guys 💪🏼🇺🇸
Great content thanks for sharing
I started using RevX instead of shampoo. Now I don't need a motorcycle helmet and the bugs don't stick!
I thought I was first to do that. Dang every time it seems I’m not the first inventor.
320 👍's up Steve Morris thank you for sharing 🤗
We had similar 800 cub.inch engine and did diagonal brace and boxed it solid
I was using their Diesel additives years ago. Like 2010, they make great additives.
There was an additive that guys ran in nitro motors that was THIIICK, lol - really helped with scuffing pistons, etc.
Take a flat plate and curve it to follow the contoured curve of that mount and stitch weld it to the mount. Orient it in a T fitup. The curve and orientation will make it very resistant to torsion twist.
Good work
I think it was the overall fuel temperature change, making it lean out slightly as runs were made. probably a bit fat and leaning out tickled a few HP more, and back down after cooling.
i would be interested in the same test showing engine oil temperatures. We used a product YEARS ago that did the same thing you found in this testing but we noticed a 20-30 degree oil temp drop in an asphalt oval track car.
That's really great.
What Oil were you using with it in the wagon when it lost the belt??
Roil Gold is another great friction reducing additive. I have been using it to reduce oil temperatures for over 30 years. It treats the metal and does not reduce bearing tollerances its extremely slippery stuff..
Weld a thin strip along the top and bottom of the engine mount and that should take out the harmonics of the engine mount and make it stronger also
The only issue I have with rev-x is all oils have different chemical compositions and it may work with one oil to be better and may make a different oil worse.
The real world. That would make a great show.
Awesome Mr. Morris.
Myself am very into innovative lubes and wear protectors added to good oil with noticeable results, is how we’ve gotten the winning recipes over the decades even though not all of them work.
Would love to see a before and after on your SMX or SML after some good heat cycles.
Sweet!
Use a turnbuckle and Plate pad bolted to the motor plate and the mount that bolts to the pad. similar to a 4 link bar.
When Rev-X is first blends with the oil , the lubrication package of the base oil is altered in a way to where it’s not reducing friction and oil temp. then once the Rev-X and the base oil are completely blended together that’s when you start seeing the benefits of the friction reduction at a molecular level bond.
isn't oil temp infulencing the horsepower like a lot?
Think of it like a ceramic coating for your paint but for steel it soaks into the pores of the steel and creates a friction layer and with less friction is less heat and that converts to HP and I’m sure it’s synthetic and all the molecules are the same size which creates a Even surface of film
Steve, I was thinking about that flexible front motor mount on the hemi boat motor. What if you were to take a 2" tubing, bend it to the shape of the center of each
motor mount, cut it in half, and then, weld on each half tube to the front and back for rigidity. Another option may be to cut 1 1/2" tubing etc. and then, weld each
half tube to the top front and bottom of each motor mount? Half tubes may have to be welded to the back of each motor mount too.
Gusset, those front engine mounts.
I love Steve Morris Engines. Steve is a great guy. He builds some really epic stuff, and has a top notch facility. Great company, and wonderful family! Where things go sort of south for me: If an oil company sells a lot of oil they are considered a profitable oil company... If they sell additives, they are doubly so. Additives make hand over fist more money then selling oil by the quart. It may work just as well as switching to synthetic oil from standard oil. Honestly, idk if I believe the modern day snake oil. I send samples in every 15k miles and things are going very well for my 100k mile all aluminum 6.0 Gen iv... No reason to double the cost of my oil changes. Now, if you guys with $100k under the hood want the protection, it's gonna cost you $75 for 5oz... If you want to pay the premium for your 3500hp engine, no problem with that. I rather buy gold. But no foul against the oil company for selling an additive. It sure does make for good profit of course, and maybe adding 10% to your engines already short life cycle? Maybe? I would love to see a long term test with someone using this stuff with every oil change and list of how many passes they have made before having to tear down and swap out bearings, rods, rings, pistons, lifters etc. The real test would be to compare a fairly similar pass count engine to one that does use this stuff. See what the parts look like at the "end" of their life cycle. Cheers
Steve was that supposed to be a bbc joke 😂😂
High zinc and special oil molecule binders... Its mostly an internals insurance
Interesting !
As long as you’re testing please try motorkote!😎🌊💙👏
Weld flat bars flat on top and bottom of the black hemi motor mounts. Make an I beam out of them. Much stiffer
back in the late 70's or early 80;swhen pro- blend came out i sold a lot of it and personally used it in my 496 bb chev brkt car and a friends 482 bb chev brkt car . with engines hot and idleing we added it to the oil and in 2 or 3 minute s rpm;s pick up a couple hundred. so with todays knowledge no doubt it will make more power. maybe the 532 has really tight clearances ana 2 pulls wasn't enough time for it to mix well enough ...just a thought
I would guess it fortifies the surface grain structure of the metal and more efficiently handles friction/heat.
I bought a bottle of Rev X but have not tried it yet. If I gain 5 HP it's a big deal. I tried some thinner full synthetic oil but did not see any power gain. I was told the thinner oil (that I used) needed to be at a higher temp for it to show any HP gains.
@steve Morris engines In Europe we have something similar. its called METABOND. We use it in our car and racecars. it is magical. no oil presure and no damage to the engine. it needs 600 miles to fully integrate.
You could make those hemi motor plates out of say 1 inch aluminum and mill most of it down to 1/2 inch so you have strengthening ribs. It would cost a bit but make it pretty strong.
giant billet mounts, ribbed for her pleasure? 🤣
Here's one for the RevX guys. Friend has a 6 cylinder overhead cam boat engine built in the early 1950's. Has developed a backfire through the carburetor. I believe it's from running for years on first low lead then no lead fuel. Expect to see galled valve guides when we get the head apart. There is also some camshaft galling. We will be running RevX in it when we get it back together!
Mounting to the head might crack it, leak and be a huge headache. Maybe just replace the current one with a 1” plate and a bit of gussets.
Build a secondary support of boat motor mounts it will double you support and it might be easier
Not at all related to this vid, but clikb8 is in the country (from Oz), and being a wagon I'm assuming you will have some interest in going for a skid with Mick Hinchy if the opportunity arises. I hope you read this and pursue the chance of such an experience.
Wtf?That hemi is massive!!! Those headers 😂
Very interesting!
Most such products use PTFE, MOS2 or similar.
One thing though:
They told you it doesn’t increase horsepower, that’s not what it’s about.
But their packaging says “Increases Power & Torque”.
They should remove that then!
Just saying.
Best wishes
That hemi is a beast not cheap I'm sure
Been using Rev x in my sons motocross bikes never have any engine issues and he runs them real hard.
Is it compatible with the wet clutch setup?
Yep
Max hp rpm was up a few hundred on the rev x pulls.
I’ve got it in my truck
Maybe you can weld some square tubing on the supports
Steve, have you tried using the Rev X in the drivetrain of your HASS machine?
most additives degrade the oil, some just boil off snake oil mostly
Motocross Action reported a test on a Husqvarna 450 motocross bike. The Rev X man bought a used bike. Rode it, then put 2 Oz Rev X in it. Ran it for a while. Let cool and then ran again. Then took the radiators off, drained the coolant and the a MA test rider rode in 90 degree heat for about 40 min til it stopped. They let it cool. Then trail rode for 35 min til it stopped. Then disassembled the engine on video and found no scuffing, galling or wear. I bought 2 bottles for my dirt bikes immediately. Then did an oil change on my 6.2l 2022 Silverado and put a bottle in that. Took the same 1300 mile trip I do every year and got almost 1 mpg better. I believe!
Use caution when adding extra zinc to your oil
Boxing those engine plates seems like a chore. If i could do anything more than replace parts and type i'd be trying to box it in chambers. Like notch the plates to take 3 or 4 rows of tabbed 1/2-1" risers that follow the arc of the plate. Then slap another notched plate on the front of that for a chambered engine plate sandwhich. Do it Big Mac style above the heads.
When the water in the dyno gets hot, does that affect horsepower numbers compared to when the dyno water is cold?
I am like you an independent, I like to think of myself as a free thinker.
Weld in Triangular gusset’s to that plate from the mount point back towards the block.
Sized to suit the header’s & or mount/service impediment issues.
No flex guaranteed, like a boxed 9 inch diff.
🤔…Unless it’s fitted to an SMX…✨🛠✨
Would you be willing to share the combo specs of that big block chevy for guys like me to compare with ? I'll most likely never get on a dyno but it helps to make educated guesses. thanks
Wonder if i should put the Rev x in my diesel???
Wouldn’t tubing be more resistant to movement than flat plate? For the motor mounts
Considering how good their (Rev X)stuff worked on your engine the prices are pretty reasonable.
Use a box section it will stop flex I all directions
How will it work in an air cooled Harley V Twin?
Think I would start all over with engine mounts! That’s horrible fab job on engine mounts 😮
It the camera on that add the extra power. Same as weight for people
Why did it look like it lost 30 pounds oil pressure right before you let off , may be the last 500 RPM. Or am I missing something? I used Rex-X for years in my diesel shop before I retired.
It raised peak HP rpm from all the previous testing a 150 or so....
Power stroke 6 . Oh no guys love the rev x product other than price to keep injectors alive
STEVE said a little expensive I run Royal Purple in my car and one bottle of that stuff in Canada cost more than the oil change at 7 L. OUCH!
Steve you should do a series on additives lots of people would watch that the only one who has a engine dyno
How much revx would I put in a Ninja 300?
@12:00 can ya weld angle iron along outside the mount plates 🤔
Ya know like 1 long one and 2 shorter ones staggard faced down
why is the oil pressure dropping almost 30psi at over 6000 rpm? that worries me. is the filter going into bypass?
Heat cycling?
Are the numbers you are sharing at Standard Conditions? If not, that is a BfD for NA engines.
So what about that Quad-Turbo, 12.3-Liter, 5007 HP V16 ?
What i don't understand is headers for some type of endurance application yet crank stroke and rpm that would make this thing eat pistons from piston speed????
YOU NEED TO USE THE "ENGINE MOUNT" AS A TEMPLATE AND MAKE SURE IT FITS. THEN FAB A REAL MOTORMOUNT UP OUT OF ADEQUATITLY SIZED AND APPROPIATE [STAINLESS?] MATERIAL 1 INCH THICK IS WHERE I WOULD LOOK. PIPE ADDED AT THE "FLEX" BRACKET AND GUSSET!
it seems to me like the HP was going up with the oil heating up.
👍
Front mounts are torsion bars oh no
Weld a strong back to the motor plate. Shaped like a T. That’ll do a lot
I'm looking at the back of the bottle and it says increases & torque
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