Not many videos I could find on this. My 2012 makes a foghorn like squeal at very low speeds after it rains which I think is coming from this bearing. I made a 2hr each way drive over the weekend and, on the highway, when braking hard & when touching the gas from a coast it sounds like there’s vibration in the bearing while it’s under load (almost like the hollow vibrating sound a bad sway bar endlink or even bad strut makes over bumpy road except it’s in drivetrain)
I discovered one does not need a new seal since the replacement bearing is sealed on both sides unlike my 98 CRV original. The bearing is also a standard bearing that is available at Granger or bearing supply houses for $8 to $10. I had to order the bearing from CarRid, $60, because I could not get the spec on the bearing. The dealer did not have the bearing in stock so I could not get the bearing spec there either. The number on the bearing from CarRid original Honda crosses. If you can have your car up in the air for awhile pull your bearing out and take it to Granger or a bearing supply store. Get a double sealed bearing of the same size. It is metric but of a standard size. This will save you about $50. You can also order a bearing at your local parts store, check the bearing number, buy a cheaper bearing at a bearing supply store and return the high priced auto store bearing.
Yes the seal is rather redundant if the bearing is double sealed already. I was able to reuse the original seal. Bearing availability from aftermarket sources is often possible once you get the bearing number or actual dimensions. This is true of a lot of non serviced bearings where the dealer part is an assembly. Thank goodness for the internet to share information and save money...thanks for the comment.
Hey did your axle have any play where the shaft is bolted to the block ? I have a 14 mdx that’s making a consistent bearing squeak (sort of sounds like low brake pads sort of ) and I also have play . When I jack up the car , I grab the axle at the inner joint and it moves around . No humming or vibration for the most part , just an annoying squeak . I can’t find any info online with anyone else experiencing this besides your video.
2010 civic 5spd, mint, low miles. Low humming noise but not wheel bearings. Could it possibly be the bearing on the drive shaft? I read about tranny bearings but, I’m not getting any issues / sounds/ vibes changing gears. Humming persists if I throw it in neutral when driving.
have the same problem on a 2011 Honda Accord assumed it was wheel bearings to, but once it was in the lift with traction control off. It was a constant noise coming from inside towards the motor. Use this video to learn how to press that bearing out. Thank you very much. Don’t see this issue at all in California but this car was pretty rusted. come from out of state might be a common issue related to rust and salt.
I clamped the shaft in the vise once the bearing was pressed into the housing and used a piece of pipe to tap the bearing assembly back onto the shaft. HTH
Not sure what you mean by that. You can't get the inner tripot joint off the intermediate shaft? If that's the case I have no suggestions other than a little heat and big hammer. Good luck
I talked to a shop. They told me a machine shop with a press is what they do for the bad ones. If there is an axel rebuild place near you they should know how to get the unit apart. They may even have a source for a bearing if you can find such a place.
I fear I may be suffering this same problem on my 12 V. Just replaced wheel bearings/hubs and it still persists. So far yours is the only video or information I can find about this odd noise... Could you tell me if the noise was like higher pitched mechanical sounding whine or moaning (rather than a grumble)? Important to note there are no other unusual vibrations or symptoms that I can feel with this. I had the same initial thought of wheel bearings or excessively worn hubs. I happen to have taken a video of the noise as well if you might be willing to have me email it and confirm if that's the noise. Thanks anyway for this video as now I know where else to begin diagnosing... Take care!
Yes this was a bit of a pain. The microphones helped to isolate the noise. Usually a wheel bearing noise is load sensitive and will change pitch with a shift from right to left like changing lanes but sometimes its not. Often wheel bearings do not make noise off the ground again because they are not under a load. This was a hum that increased in intensity with speed and did not change side to side or on acceleration or deceleration. In fact it was loudest at 50 mph in neutral with the engine shut off. Another possible source for the noise on these CRVs is the rear driveshaft support bearing. This vehicle was missing the rear driveshaft altogether as it had failed earlier and another shop removed it completely. I find trying to run these vehicles on the hoist almost useless today due to traction control limitations. My email is phils@tbaytel.net. good luck...
@@PhillipBailey Hi friend, my 2009 honda CRV hit the curb twice (front right) and the wheel alignment went off. This was in early January when the winter was very cold up here in Canada. I brought my honda to a local garage and they told me it needed a right inner and outer tie rod before alignment. I could have done it myself but can't due to cold weather so I had them do it. After the garage I took it home and felt immediately that there was grinding and vibration which they didn't even detect during test drive. I brought it back and they told me this time it's the right wheel bearing. Long story short, I took it home and some time did the wheel bearing myself, with the wheel hub changed, both axles changed, even the left inner tie rod changed and still an obvious grinding at around 40-50 kph and it gets worst. The only thing left for me to look is the intermediate Shaft bearing which I came to find out after countless hours of scraping the internet and stumbling upon your informative video. I am so hoping that this is the answer to all my miseries. Sick and tired of chasing this issue.
@@ImipugoVideos sometimes the noise sounds like it's in the front but it's actually in the rear. Plus lifted off the ground some bearings don't make any noise so it's hard to tell where it's coming from. I use a set of microphones on strategic locations while driving down the road. Even running the vehicle on the hoist is a pain now with Traction control and ABS. It could also be that intermediate shaft bearing as well. Good luck
I bottomed out my 2010 accord a week or two ago going over a hump in the highway and now im hearing a humming noise when I get to 25mph, and also my rpm gauge is a little higher at 60mph. im hoping its the same issue as this Honda.
@@PhillipBailey my 2010 accord is doing the same thing. I found your video because I was looking for SOMETHING that addressed that intermediate shaft bearing because nothing else is making sense to me. No change in noise with lane or directional changes. I have not tried coasting in neutral but I have noticed when I get off the gas and let the vehicle decelerate it is a little louder. Thanks for posting.
I get a strong vibration in the footwell when accelerating from 60-80 mph. I checked and saw my axles looked ok but there was some type of leakage from the bearing on the intermediate shaft... guessing I need to replace the bearing and seals?
Its possible but could also be an engine mount problem. Is the vibration only present at that speed under load and stops when your coasting at that speed. Have you had any other work done recently? Make sure the wheels are all tight.
Phillip Bailey Yes, vibration is only present between 60-80 on acceleration and goes away if you let off gas. Steering is fine it’s just the bottom foot area that gets the heavy shaking. I’ve only recently acquired this car so I’m not sure but I can ask the previous owner. Yeah I also torqued the wheels down. Thanks for the reply :)
With the V6 Model of the Honda Accord - I have the 2011 Crosstour - The front axels can go out of round from stop-n-go at higher speeds - It appears the front of the vehicle is just a bit too heavy for the axels - You will feel the shudder when accelerating between 25-40mph as well as 60-75mph ranges - Only when accelerating. Letting off the pedal the shudder minimizes and goes away -
@@TheAllenPride There is a known broblem condition on the Crosstour where the torque converter causes that shudder under those conditions. I believe there is a policy adjustment from Honda addressing that but don't quote me. I did a video on that I'll post a link here shortly.. Have you had yours repaired by replacing the axle shafts? .
Do you know the part number for 2005 CR-V AWD (5:04)? It's a pain taking out the Passenger CV Axle but really easy to hand pull out the Intermediate Shaft Assy. Bearing (5:05) feel & sound good when hand spinning. But like you stated, I hope mine is not bad. FYI: I confirmed no fluid coming out when removing the Intermediate Shaft Leaning toward the the transmission making noises (intermittently) so it is hard to tell. Or the Intermediate Shaft (do you know part number for bearing on 2005)?
This one was a 91057-SR3-008 but I can't confirm that fits yours. There are also a couple seals that you should buy at the bearing but I don't have the numbers.
Ok I am one having bad luck with my CRV. I replaced the left WB and Carrier Bearing but still noise. Checking below the transmission CV has movement on the side the noise does not sound like it is coming from. My guess is it's a shot front differential output bearing. Is this repairable? My guess I have to remove the transmission or is there any other way. No videos on UA-cam. Anybody got any information.
It could be inside the final drive but it could also be somewhere else. Try to find a shop with a set of chassis ears. These are microphones that can be strategicly located and then you drive the vehicle listening to the noise through headphones while switch microphone inputs. I have had a rear bearing sound like the noise is from the front. Is it sensitive to load ie does it change pitch on acceleration or deceleration? Does it change pitch side to side like switching lanes. Is it quieter on snow or dirt road?
I just did the same bearing today and when I pulled the driveshaft from the transmission no fluid came out too. I think that's normal for this model car.
Hello great video! Makes me feel confident in tackling this same issue in my 2012 crv! Do you know by chance the part number for the bearing that you used in this install? Thanks
At 7:10, you wiggle the bearing support and say that the play is normal due to a rubber mount. Where is this rubber mount, and what is normal about this? When I changed my outer shaft, I could wiggle the intermediate shaft at the bearing making me think I need to replace the intermediate shaft bearing, however it is not making any noise. Although I do feel vibration upon acceleration. I have an MDX, but basically the same car.
This one had a rubber mount internal to the bearing housing. I personally did not like the movement that was present after pressing the new bearing into the housing. I would not have expected that play to be present. It did not seem to make a difference afterwards. If yours doe not have movement I would think that's ok too.
As to the vibration on acceleration I have seen that caused by worn CV joints of inner plunge joints especially if you have recently changed struts or springs and altered the ride height. The joint may be working at a slightly different angle than before. Also seen a vibration on acceleration due to replacement CV shafts of questionable quality. You should check your motor mounts too. Good luck.
I have a 14 mdx as well, I’m thinking my bearing is bad as well because I have a bad squeak that comes and goes and when I jack up the car and grab the inner joint where the axle is bolted to the block there’s a lot of play . I can wiggle it Up and down and side to side . I’ve never had this issue before with any of my Hondas . Not even 20 ur old integras.
@@PhillipBailey there are some cheap complete drive shafts available on the internet (I used Replacement parts.). For a cheap install take it to a sketchy muffler shop. They might installed for thirty or forty dollars. My cheap ass drive shaft has lasted three years now.
This vehicle did not shake. Just made a humming at cruise speeds. Possibly you have an engine miss. Does it shake sitting still in drive or stall tested? If so it's not the cv shafts since they are not turning.
Not many videos I could find on this. My 2012 makes a foghorn like squeal at very low speeds after it rains which I think is coming from this bearing. I made a 2hr each way drive over the weekend and, on the highway, when braking hard & when touching the gas from a coast it sounds like there’s vibration in the bearing while it’s under load (almost like the hollow vibrating sound a bad sway bar endlink or even bad strut makes over bumpy road except it’s in drivetrain)
I discovered one does not need a new seal since the replacement bearing is sealed on both sides unlike my 98 CRV original. The bearing is also a standard bearing that is available at Granger or bearing supply houses for $8 to $10. I had to order the bearing from CarRid, $60, because I could not get the spec on the bearing. The dealer did not have the bearing in stock so I could not get the bearing spec there either. The number on the bearing from CarRid original Honda crosses. If you can have your car up in the air for awhile pull your bearing out and take it to Granger or a bearing supply store. Get a double sealed bearing of the same size. It is metric but of a standard size. This will save you about $50. You can also order a bearing at your local parts store, check the bearing number, buy a cheaper bearing at a bearing supply store and return the high priced auto store bearing.
Yes the seal is rather redundant if the bearing is double sealed already. I was able to reuse the original seal. Bearing availability from aftermarket sources is often possible once you get the bearing number or actual dimensions. This is true of a lot of non serviced bearings where the dealer part is an assembly. Thank goodness for the internet to share information and save money...thanks for the comment.
Hey did your axle have any play where the shaft is bolted to the block ? I have a 14 mdx that’s making a consistent bearing squeak (sort of sounds like low brake pads sort of ) and I also have play . When I jack up the car , I grab the axle at the inner joint and it moves around . No humming or vibration for the most part , just an annoying squeak . I can’t find any info online with anyone else experiencing this besides your video.
There should not be any play in the support bearing in my opinion.
2010 civic 5spd, mint, low miles. Low humming noise but not wheel bearings. Could it possibly be the bearing on the drive shaft? I read about tranny bearings but, I’m not getting any issues / sounds/ vibes changing gears. Humming persists if I throw it in neutral when driving.
I'm probably going to have to do this procedure on my fit.
It's almost like they bump something when they replace the recalled axle last year
It's a double sealed bearing. If you're in an area where road salt is used alot it gets into the bearing past the seals.
have the same problem on a 2011 Honda Accord assumed it was wheel bearings to, but once it was in the lift with traction control off. It was a constant noise coming from inside towards the motor. Use this video to learn how to press that bearing out. Thank you very much. Don’t see this issue at all in California but this car was pretty rusted. come from out of state might be a common issue related to rust and salt.
Glad it helped you. Yes the bearing is sealed but contamination can get past the seals causing the bearing to fail.
Did it fix the humming noise when u replaced this bearing ?! Because I have the same problem
Yes it did but understand that a wheel bearing noise is very similar
Does anyone know ow the part number for this seal?
What did you use to press the bearing back to the shaft? I was able to do everything up to that point that you skipped pressing it back on the shaft.
I clamped the shaft in the vise once the bearing was pressed into the housing and used a piece of pipe to tap the bearing assembly back onto the shaft. HTH
I have an intermediate shaft of a 1995 Accord from the wreckers, I think the Tri-Cup is stick to the bearing housing, is there a way to seperate them?
Not sure what you mean by that. You can't get the inner tripot joint off the intermediate shaft? If that's the case I have no suggestions other than a little heat and big hammer. Good luck
I talked to a shop. They told me a machine shop with a press is what they do for the bad ones. If there is an axel rebuild place near you they should know how to get the unit apart. They may even have a source for a bearing if you can find such a place.
I fear I may be suffering this same problem on my 12 V. Just replaced wheel bearings/hubs and it still persists. So far yours is the only video or information I can find about this odd noise... Could you tell me if the noise was like higher pitched mechanical sounding whine or moaning (rather than a grumble)? Important to note there are no other unusual vibrations or symptoms that I can feel with this. I had the same initial thought of wheel bearings or excessively worn hubs. I happen to have taken a video of the noise as well if you might be willing to have me email it and confirm if that's the noise. Thanks anyway for this video as now I know where else to begin diagnosing... Take care!
Yes this was a bit of a pain. The microphones helped to isolate the noise. Usually a wheel bearing noise is load sensitive and will change pitch with a shift from right to left like changing lanes but sometimes its not. Often wheel bearings do not make noise off the ground again because they are not under a load. This was a hum that increased in intensity with speed and did not change side to side or on acceleration or deceleration. In fact it was loudest at 50 mph in neutral with the engine shut off. Another possible source for the noise on these CRVs is the rear driveshaft support bearing. This vehicle was missing the rear driveshaft altogether as it had failed earlier and another shop removed it completely. I find trying to run these vehicles on the hoist almost useless today due to traction control limitations. My email is phils@tbaytel.net. good luck...
Hi , I have the same symptoms as you described mine is 13crv. Wondering if you have solved your problem by changing the bearing.Thanks
@@davidhsing yes replacing that bearing fixed my noise but there are lots of possibilities for this type of noise.
@@PhillipBailey Hi friend, my 2009 honda CRV hit the curb twice (front right) and the wheel alignment went off. This was in early January when the winter was very cold up here in Canada. I brought my honda to a local garage and they told me it needed a right inner and outer tie rod before alignment. I could have done it myself but can't due to cold weather so I had them do it. After the garage I took it home and felt immediately that there was grinding and vibration which they didn't even detect during test drive. I brought it back and they told me this time it's the right wheel bearing. Long story short, I took it home and some time did the wheel bearing myself, with the wheel hub changed, both axles changed, even the left inner tie rod changed and still an obvious grinding at around 40-50 kph and it gets worst. The only thing left for me to look is the intermediate Shaft bearing which I came to find out after countless hours of scraping the internet and stumbling upon your informative video. I am so hoping that this is the answer to all my miseries. Sick and tired of chasing this issue.
@@ImipugoVideos sometimes the noise sounds like it's in the front but it's actually in the rear. Plus lifted off the ground some bearings don't make any noise so it's hard to tell where it's coming from. I use a set of microphones on strategic locations while driving down the road. Even running the vehicle on the hoist is a pain now with Traction control and ABS. It could also be that intermediate shaft bearing as well. Good luck
I bottomed out my 2010 accord a week or two ago going over a hump in the highway and now im hearing a humming noise when I get to 25mph, and also my rpm gauge is a little higher at 60mph. im hoping its the same issue as this Honda.
The accord does not have the same design id bet you have a wheel bearing noise.
@@PhillipBailey my 2010 accord is doing the same thing. I found your video because I was looking for SOMETHING that addressed that intermediate shaft bearing because nothing else is making sense to me. No change in noise with lane or directional changes. I have not tried coasting in neutral but I have noticed when I get off the gas and let the vehicle decelerate it is a little louder. Thanks for posting.
I get a strong vibration in the footwell when accelerating from 60-80 mph. I checked and saw my axles looked ok but there was some type of leakage from the bearing on the intermediate shaft... guessing I need to replace the bearing and seals?
Its possible but could also be an engine mount problem. Is the vibration only present at that speed under load and stops when your coasting at that speed. Have you had any other work done recently? Make sure the wheels are all tight.
Phillip Bailey Yes, vibration is only present between 60-80 on acceleration and goes away if you let off gas. Steering is fine it’s just the bottom foot area that gets the heavy shaking. I’ve only recently acquired this car so I’m not sure but I can ask the previous owner. Yeah I also torqued the wheels down. Thanks for the reply :)
With the V6 Model of the Honda Accord - I have the 2011 Crosstour - The front axels can go out of round from stop-n-go at higher speeds - It appears the front of the vehicle is just a bit too heavy for the axels - You will feel the shudder when accelerating between 25-40mph as well as 60-75mph ranges - Only when accelerating. Letting off the pedal the shudder minimizes and goes away -
@@TheAllenPride There is a known broblem condition on the Crosstour where the torque converter causes that shudder under those conditions. I believe there is a policy adjustment from Honda addressing that but don't quote me. I did a video on that I'll post a link here shortly.. Have you had yours repaired by replacing the axle shafts? .
@@TheAllenPride here is the crosstour video: ua-cam.com/video/SSkGjcvZP4Y/v-deo.html
Do you know the part number for 2005 CR-V AWD (5:04)?
It's a pain taking out the Passenger CV Axle but really easy to hand pull out the Intermediate Shaft Assy.
Bearing (5:05) feel & sound good when hand spinning. But like you stated, I hope mine is not bad.
FYI:
I confirmed no fluid coming out when removing the Intermediate Shaft
Leaning toward the the transmission making noises (intermittently) so it is hard to tell.
Or the Intermediate Shaft (do you know part number for bearing on 2005)?
This one was a 91057-SR3-008 but I can't confirm that fits yours. There are also a couple seals that you should buy at the bearing but I don't have the numbers.
@@PhillipBailey Sounds like you really don't know, then why reply?
@@angelisone it's polite. Don't know is a lot better than the wrong answer.
Affordable***
@@angelisone listed the part number 🙂
Ok I am one having bad luck with my CRV. I replaced the left WB and Carrier Bearing but still noise. Checking below the transmission CV has movement on the side the noise does not sound like it is coming from. My guess is it's a shot front differential output bearing. Is this repairable? My guess I have to remove the transmission or is there any other way. No videos on UA-cam. Anybody got any information.
It could be inside the final drive but it could also be somewhere else. Try to find a shop with a set of chassis ears. These are microphones that can be strategicly located and then you drive the vehicle listening to the noise through headphones while switch microphone inputs. I have had a rear bearing sound like the noise is from the front. Is it sensitive to load ie does it change pitch on acceleration or deceleration? Does it change pitch side to side like switching lanes. Is it quieter on snow or dirt road?
is this part 91057-sr3-008 will fit to honda CRV 2013?
I'm not sure. Need to confirm with a parts store. Sorry
I just did the same bearing today and when I pulled the driveshaft from the transmission no fluid came out too. I think that's normal for this model car.
Yes that appears to be normal for this vehicle. Thanks for watching.
Hello great video! Makes me feel confident in tackling this same issue in my 2012 crv! Do you know by chance the part number for the bearing that you used in this install? Thanks
If transmission is over filled. you will see oil come out.
@@robertjones3000 they are keeping these bearings in the container ships off the coast of CA. I ordered one for total $60 from CarRid. Good luck.
What's the part number of this seal? I can't find it anywhere
At 7:10, you wiggle the bearing support and say that the play is normal due to a rubber mount. Where is this rubber mount, and what is normal about this? When I changed my outer shaft, I could wiggle the intermediate shaft at the bearing making me think I need to replace the intermediate shaft bearing, however it is not making any noise. Although I do feel vibration upon acceleration. I have an MDX, but basically the same car.
This one had a rubber mount internal to the bearing housing. I personally did not like the movement that was present after pressing the new bearing into the housing. I would not have expected that play to be present. It did not seem to make a difference afterwards. If yours doe not have movement I would think that's ok too.
As to the vibration on acceleration I have seen that caused by worn CV joints of inner plunge joints especially if you have recently changed struts or springs and altered the ride height. The joint may be working at a slightly different angle than before. Also seen a vibration on acceleration due to replacement CV shafts of questionable quality. You should check your motor mounts too. Good luck.
I have a 14 mdx as well, I’m thinking my bearing is bad as well because I have a bad squeak that comes and goes and when I jack up the car and grab the inner joint where the axle is bolted to the block there’s a lot of play . I can wiggle it
Up and down and side to side . I’ve never had this issue before with any of my Hondas . Not even 20 ur old integras.
Did it sound like a whining that went with the sound of your car shifting kind of like an RC radio control car
No this was road speed sensitive not engine speed. Same whine at cruise speed even with the engine shut off in neutral
@@PhillipBailey ok 👌
i saw a couples of videos for crvs and i noticed theres no driveshaft hows that? can the car run if i remove the awd driveshaft ?
Yes this one can. It's primarily front wheel drive. Apparently the hanger bearing failed and the dealer removed it completely.
@@PhillipBailey so now it's front wheel drive .? What about the rear differential is it removed?
@@imadpola1478 no just removed the entire rear driveshaft. Rear diff is still there going along for the ride...
@@PhillipBailey oh ok thanks
@@PhillipBailey there are some cheap complete drive shafts available on the internet (I used Replacement parts.). For a cheap install take it to a sketchy muffler shop. They might installed for thirty or forty dollars. My cheap ass drive shaft has lasted three years now.
Mine is really bad shakes the whole engine I changed engine mounts still doing it
This vehicle did not shake. Just made a humming at cruise speeds. Possibly you have an engine miss. Does it shake sitting still in drive or stall tested? If so it's not the cv shafts since they are not turning.
Did it give off a grinding feeling as well?
This one was just humming
I wanna hear you yell "Wilson!!" Or "Buzz, look an alien!!" 😎