Glad you shot some grease in the new bearings. The pre-pack isn't much. I always take the retainers off to so I can get some fresh inside where it needs to be. Waiting for the firing up! Thanks!
I was born in January of 1941. All my bearings and joints are running dry too. I'm glad I watched this. I have a half-horse motor with that type of pulley and had no idea what it was. Thanks for the info and the vid.
It's pleasing to see that motor restored so easily? rather than consignment to a scrap yard.....!!! So much useful kit is tossed in the U.S. when it deserves continued use....
I collect old Farmall Tractors, and one of the things that I appreciate in older American-made mechanical devices is that even after 70 or 80 years of service, the screws come out without incident, the bolts don't strip or snap and even big ol' pulleys come off fairly easy. Wish I was there helping you.
Bill sargent I grew up on a small NW Oh farm. I still have Grandads Oliver77he bought in 48 and a 460 Farmall gas.I still use them and although they are ugly I keep them mechanically fit. I love that every piece is serviceable and was designed to be renewed and used for along time.Oliver has outlived Grandpa, Dad and I am in late 50s.
My bearings are all from 1941, too. lol I sure feel old. Enjoyed the video as always. Great to see the old motor going back into service. Thanks Keith.
Keith; We used to use a piece of threaded rod to align the back piece while we bolted the end bell on. One long threaded rod allowed us to assemble the motor and put the two of the screws in. Once we had the two screws in remove the rod and replace the last screw. Don't believe the motor rating. That one will handle over 3 HP of load all day. If you replace it with a new motor you should go to a 5 HP. All of the old motors like that were way underrated. They don't build them like they used to!
Northern Inventor uses taper hubs as part of a poor man's collet system. Use a commonly available size and style, you can treat them as consumable and modify to your current need. Look him up, he explains the details quite well.
Belt drives are used precisely because they are tolerant of misalignment. If it spins true to the eye, it's aligned more than well enough for a belt. making sure the pulleys are parallel is far more important.
Yeah it will work, but the more true running you can get everything the better. A slight misalignment can cause vibration in the belt and that vibration in the belt can translate into the surface finish on the work. You see a lot of the older big lathes like Monarch and Pacemaker with a giant stack of multiple belts. They don't need near that many belts to transmit the power but the more they have the more they average and smooth out the drive and you get a better finish.
hi Keith thank you for the videos. Normally I enjoy learning about stuff I have no experience with from you. However I work on a lot of motors in the field some points for your next rebuild. You can also use a bearing heater to slip fit since hammering and pressing against anything besides inner race is bad practice. You can use studs or cut the heads off long bolts to align bearing covers to motor covers. Also sheave and pulley are interchangeable terms you have a taper split bushing on a sheave/pulley. When installing prep shaft and bushing clean should have it sliding on without hammering to save bearings. All bearings have a grease capacity chart and your grease gun has a volume per pump specification. Excessive grease will reduce service life. thank you I do not mean to troll just add some good practices to help.
Aren't you now gad you got that press? It sure came in handy for this project. Thanks Keith, great series and can't wait to see the old girl run! You have done a great job on this lathe, it's beautiful.
Keith, Before becoming a maintenance manager, I worked as an industrial maintenance tech for years. We used to rebuild electric motors of various sizes from 1/2hp to hundreds. I tell ya, a bearing heater is the bees knees when it comes to this type of work. You can also use a toaster oven at 225F as well.
I agree. For over 40 years I've also had an electric pot with clean oil and a strainer in it for heating various bearings and bushings handy for various jobs where oil wouldn't be a factor. I also had access to an induction heater when I needed. Hay, I even just recently heated a very small bearing on top of a 100watt light bulb steel lamp shield where the bearing only needed a .0002"(yes .0002" not .002") press fit on a boat windlass motor rebuild for a friend rather than tapping it on so I didn't take a chance of hurting the armature. Your comment could start a great subject matter about bearings and proper installation.
Great job.Just a thought though, as you packed the grease in tight, it will have to squeeze out somewhere when it gets hot.Perhaps you could let the motor run for a while with the lower drain plugs cracked open to relieve this pressure.
The motor winder's trick with the bearing retainer at the front is using a long enough piece of all-thread to line it up, then slide the front shield on and fit the bolts, unscrew the all-thread and fit the last bolt, easy and no danger of breaking the front shield with the press.
Hi Keith another great Vid. I recently did the 8 hp spindle motor on the mill replacing the bearings, I also double insulated the fly leads from the feild windings and Meggered the windings to be safe, motor is 35 years old. Thought it best to play it safe after the 3.5 hp feed motor shorted in the windings and blew the 415 volt Circuit Breaker apart. Cheers.
an easier way to install the bearings is to heat them up and slide them on. use care to only heat them up to around 275 degrees F and to align the retainers cut the head off of a 4" bolt and screw the bolt (minus the head) into the retainer. this will allow you to get the retainer holes aligned. then you can use the bolts to get the retainer pulled up and the first retainer screw started. next remove only one of the alignment bolts and replace it with the correct retainer screw. repeat until all the retainer screws/bolts are in. it is best to shoulder the bearing on the rotor before installing the end bell. make sure you mark the no-drive end from the non-drive end. if you flip them the motor will not run! good luck and love the videos
Actually that’s not necessarily true… and thats actually very uncommon on small motors like this. As long as the winding iron is in the middle of the stator, then you can flip the rotor either direction. They make them this way to be able to flip them from F1 and F2 assembly (or Right Hand and Left Hand). Been working for my dad who’s owned a electric motor repair company for 20 years now. MEM INDUSTRIAL LLC Wichita Ks
But ya shouldering the bearing on the rotor is very important and he did not do that. Using all thread to be able to install the retainers to the end bells is industry standard and is very easy. And something to add, he added WAY too much grease to those bearings. Bearings only require about 30% grease fill and he packed them until they were “tight”. The grease that comes in the bearings is actually the correct amount they need. You typically add some at the end while running the motor just to replace the little bit the bearings throw out when they first start spinning and the grease hasn’t yet “packed in”.
Hi Keith, don't be pumping anymore grease in that motor, what you put in will last your lifetime and mine. This project is turning out great. Many thanks for sharing. Kindestregards. Joe.
Hello Keith, I highly recommend using a never seize product when re-assembling everything. One of my friends (a former military aircraft/helicopter mechanic and pilot) and all around certified smart guy was adamant. I've really been glad he was/is. When taking things apart years later no comparison. I would even use it on the Browning hub. Looking at the motor and I could be wrong usually there are nine wires in the junction box to allow the selection of your voltage. I've had motors re-wired and if they know I'm going to be using it on a specific voltage sometimes they only bring 3 to the Junction box. Many years ago I used to run into motors that were 220/440/550 volts. 50/60 Hz. The higher the voltage the smaller the wire gage on home runs back to distribution. No mater what voltage the total energy demand is =.........Can't wait to see the old LeBlond running. I'll bet that machine was involved somewhere in helping us win WWII
I tend to use never seize on things that are going to be out in the weather or in a hostile environment. On a lathe that is going to be in the shop, lubed up often, etc., I just don't think it is necessary. It does not hurt, just not necessary. Consider that I took the whole thing apart with no problem and much of what I took apart had not been apart since it was built in the 1940's. No never seize was used then.
Thanks Keith, I just got in the habit of using it on everything because of that one in a hundred chance of having to fight stuff. I'm a bit older than u and I've been around machine tools all my life. I started out running and helping my dad fix machinery over 60 years ago. Since then I've worked on heavy equipment, farm equipment, you name it unfortunately for me no steam. Love what you have accomplished.
Looks like a new one! It'll be good to see it in the lathe and like you said, "making chips". Thanks for taking the time to make these videos; I'm sure it takes double the time to make and edit them. Some start out great guns then fizzell out and I understand why. Takes time out of the paying jobs. Been there done that when the home owner wanted to "help". Greg
Koyo is one of the top bearing manufacturers known, I believe they're Japanese but they also have a lot of different branches through out. They're mostly known in the automotive industry. I use Koyo bearings in my transmission :)
Yes, Koyo are OEM suppliers to pretty much every Japanese automaker, and anything else Japanese industry produces. In my books, Koyo is equal in quality to SKF.
Good to know. I have a lot of respect for many of the Japanese makers - unlike most of the other Asian manufacturers. I was a bit concerned with the new bearings only cost about $10 each - I guess I just assumed that they were cheap and Chinese. When I saw Japan on them, I felt a lot better.
Keith - this video was 100% perfect for where I am in a personal project. I bought a timing belt pulley and a hub and I had it assembled but I was puzzled by the 6 holes, 3 tapped, 3 not tapped. This video explains something that can be found in many shafting systems - from Electric motors to steamboats. :) - check my videos of steamboat Nyitra - the engine is vintage 1902, but it is not trying to look like a tradition/vintage steamer.. :) Thanks again Keith!
Those bearing were made when my grandfather worked at New Departure. He worked in the forge though. The old factory and the "new" one are just miles from my house. Everything was shut down about 25 years ago now and a lot of guys had to move to Sandusky to finish out their career for the pension.
My 1940 LeBlond has the same type of three phase motor on it.. I did the same thing to mine except mine was full of grease in the windings because the prior owner just pumped grease into the bearings without removing the purge plugs.. I put new bearings in mine, cleaned and re insulated the windings , panted the motor and all is well.. Usually about once a year I purge the bearings with fresh grease.. Mike in Louisiana
Excellent job on that motor. The only thing I did not see done was testing the Stator windings with a megaohm meter. If there was a problem having the stator windings rewound at a motor shop would not have been too expensive while it was apart.
I was waiting for a bolt to snap when putting the pulley together. The taper lock is used to mount the drive and tail rollers on the conveyors where I work. I was taught to snug the bolts by hand then go around in a circle, tightening a 1/4 turn at a time until they're all tight. Otherwise, the inner hub would cock sideways and bind the bolt, resulting in snapping it as you attempt to tighten it. Not really an issue with a v-belt pulley though as there is only 1 taper lock so the pulley would cock rather than the inner hub. The conveyor rollers have one at each end so the outer portion can't move.
As you said, there's only 25 hours in a day. Thanks for sharing Keith. Easy to see that if taken care of that motor would last a couple of lifetimes or more. Looking forward to chips, but not as much as you.
A good trick when dismantling an electric motor is to use a center punch to mark the frame and end bells for correct location when reassembling it. On one end of the frame make one punch mark and on the associated end bell make one punch mark in line with it. On the opposite end make two punch marks in line on the Frame and another two punch marks on the end bell and in line with the marks on the frame. This is good practice as some motor styles have different bells on each end of the frame and different bearing sizes at each end.
Hi Kieth, they are actually Shielded bearings the metal shielding is to stop rubbish getting in , the sealed ones have a soft rubbery seal that is very easy to pop out when you want to add the grease of your choice and the seal can go back in just as easy
In this application, the bearings are encased in a sealed chamber, which serves the same purpose as rubber or metal shields. With the added benefit of being able to add fresh grease from time to time which will make the bearings last longer.
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Yes I can see that , I was just pointing out the differences between them , I find the metal shielded ones in power tools and will always change them out in favor of the sealed type ( including a re-pack with some quality grease ) when they fail , they will then out last the shielded type , the way your electric motor is designed the seals aren't needed at all as it already has a very good system in place
If you ever deal with a tapered hub pulley/gear flange, it might be helpful to run a tap through the push off holes and use oil. I've broken a bolt off in them before, and it's not pleasant, especially when it's still attached to the unit.
have a similar 3 phase Utility motor on my stand up grinder, want to do the same bearing upgrade, video was helpful and encouraging.....thank you Keith
My South Bend lathe had all New Departure bearings in it. I found N.O.S. ones on Ebay for a fraction of the price a local bearing place wanted for them.
I won't say that this machine will never get scraped, but my plan is to just get it working for now. I will scrape in the 16" Monarch and once that one is running - as well as the big Monarch, I might go back and do some more work on the LeBlond. Time will tell.....
Hello Keith, inner bearings races seems to have more tight fit than on outer. So I think the best is to press both bearings fully on the rotor first (to the shaft shoulder) and after this is done can be assembled enclosing covers. I think it is safer way because can to prevent damaging the castings. Also I am sure that is possible to get open style bearings the same like originals. But good job anyway. I am enjoying watching your videos.
hey keithe i would just like to say im a machinist for a eletrick motor service company and it seems your ope housing fit might of been to loose. (opposite pulley end). you can find propper fits for the housings and shafts for bearings on NTN bearings website. if that housing is bad it can cause alot of problems down the road weather today or in a year it could trash the whole motor
For those motor leads, I would highly recommend removing the tape and using heat-shrink tubing instead. It's much lower-profile and won't work its way loose with grease and vibration, and adds some strength and protection to the wires. It also looks much nicer.
The problem with heat shrink is you cannot work your way back into the system without have to clean up a bunch of gunk from the glue. Insulating tape is probably the best.
@@Sak-zo1ui Apparently you are not aware that there are different kinds of heat-shrink, and that there is plain heat-shrink that is not glue-lined. The plain heat-shrink would be the most appropriate in this location.
At the plant I worked at we had a lot of motors we changed the bearings and used sealed bearings because our greaser would never grease them. That old motor is a good one we had some running that was put in when plant was built 30 years ago and still running.
+big ralph seeing as his job is grease and he misses greasing important jobs, seems fair to me, unless you want to employ me to be a greaser, id happily take the money and not do anything!
I've had preventative maintenance work orders that called for me to grease motors every week. I had to pencil-whip those, except for once or twice a year. The management couldn't be bothered to change them on the say-so of a lowly maintenance man. lol
Koyo make excellent bearings, they are OEM suppliers to just about every Japanese auto maker. Those bearings are shielded, not sealed. Small difference, the shielding keeps dirt and gunk out, but doesn't actually seal. If they were in a wet environment they would fail, but in your application they are perfect.
When you grease a motor such as this one, take the purge plugs out, with the motor static, pump grease in until the old grease comes out of the purge plugs, then run for a minute or two until more grease comes out.. Then put the purge plugs back in.. Many motors have been ruined by just pumping grease into them.. Grease can come out inside and get into the windings causing temperature rise and motor failure... Mike in Louisiana
Given the apparent condition of the surface of that motor, how did you prep the motor for painting? I ask because I never seem to know when to quit. Thank you.
Keith, It looks like someone use some "Abom torque" on your arbor press, seeing is how the handle is bent! Thanks for the video! I hope you have some time to get the old gal running! Have a good one! Dave
Great video Keith , as always i realy enjoy your video's. Now i'm quarantined with covid at home i'm gonna watch 'm all . Thats my therapuethic plan for my recovery 😁😉 Grtz from the netherlands Johny geerts
I have checked their website. Unfortunately way too expensive for me to ship one to Europe as I have never seen Greenerd's, Dake's or Famco's over here.
That was a huge amount of grease for those bearings. Matchmarking end housings is always recommended. Can a VSR be used on ANY 3 phase 220VAC motor? Do the hot wires have to be connected in any sequence?
after the 75 years in what condition was the insulation on the windings. I have found the lacquer on the old windings deteriorate and then short out with some revived use, especially if the terminating protruding wires are pulled around too much and tugged on.. also the bearing caps should be greased but not packed solid with grease. A filled chamber of grease increases the drag on the bearings. The grease is churned up and overheats. generally 3/4 filled is ample. Again thanks for the video/
You should have swaddled the bearing in a water soaked cloth and heated it in a microwave to slide the bearing on the shaft w/o scoring it. I thought it was BS but I tried it and it works like a charm for medium to large bearings. Working in an amusement park I do quite a few motor
G'Day Keith, Think you'll find that your new Koyo bearings are shielded as opposed to being sealed. If they have the designation "zz" meaning shields on both sides that is the case. Regards Dave
Keith, That came off way to easy did you work on it off camera or did you get extremely lucky. I have worked with those types of pulleys on fan motors and other equipment on the farm and I've never had one come off that easy that was on for that long. just a tip for reinstall, use never seize on the taper. Just curious. I love watching your videos. I have learned a lot from watching. keep up the good work.
my old 31 south bend came with a fairbanks mores 3 hp i wonder how well it will work lol i'm thinking of using it to run the linse shaft for all the machines but that may be asking a lot .
you can buy a bg6206a01 open slush bearing that don't have the shields on them that is the exact same as the C3. we put a dab of grease in the end plate before assembly.
Wow Keith. Those z style bearings are made for an oil bath environment. You should have gone with 2RB style bearings, they are pre lubed and will last quite a bit of time w/o any future Lubrication.
Those are pre lubed bearings. They have grease in them. They are not “designed for an oil bath”. You don’t put sheilded bearings in an oil bath. That’s what open bearings are for. And btw, you mean 2RS. ZZ is 2 shields and 2RS is 2 Rubber Seals Open has nothing
Glad you shot some grease in the new bearings. The pre-pack isn't much. I always take the retainers off to so I can get some fresh inside where it needs to be. Waiting for the firing up! Thanks!
I was born in January of 1941. All my bearings and joints are running dry too. I'm glad I watched this. I have a half-horse motor with that type of pulley and had no idea what it was. Thanks for the info and the vid.
Great to see you restoring machines again Keith. Seeing that lathe up and running will be a great start to the 'Year of the Machines'. Best wishes.
It's pleasing to see that motor restored so easily? rather than consignment to a scrap yard.....!!! So much useful kit is tossed in the U.S. when it deserves continued use....
I collect old Farmall Tractors, and one of the things that I appreciate in older American-made mechanical devices is that even after 70 or 80 years of service, the screws come out without incident, the bolts don't strip or snap and even big ol' pulleys come off fairly easy. Wish I was there helping you.
Bill sargent I grew up on a small NW Oh farm. I still have Grandads Oliver77he bought in 48 and a 460 Farmall gas.I still use them and although they are ugly I keep them mechanically fit. I love that every piece is serviceable and was designed to be renewed and used for along time.Oliver has outlived Grandpa, Dad and I am in late 50s.
My bearings are all from 1941, too. lol I sure feel old. Enjoyed the video as always. Great to see the old motor going back into service. Thanks Keith.
Our bearings may be getting old but I sure hope we never loose our bearings!
Eddie Kawecki 😅
Can't wait to see the LeBlond back in action.
Keith;
We used to use a piece of threaded rod to align the back piece while we bolted the end bell on. One long threaded rod allowed us to assemble the motor and put the two of the screws in. Once we had the two screws in remove the rod and replace the last screw.
Don't believe the motor rating. That one will handle over 3 HP of load all day. If you replace it with a new motor you should go to a 5 HP. All of the old motors like that were way underrated. They don't build them like they used to!
Good idea. This way You can assemble it without transmitting force through the bearing.
Nice job Keith! Appreciate you taking the time to make the video.
Awesome! Can't wait for the next installment! Very exciting to see the progress.
I really like the looks of your "new" press. It's going to be really useful in years and projects to come. Thanks Keith
Nothing like heavy hummer punch to new & fresh bearings for it's long life Keith ;)
Excellent Video Keith
I like the way taperlock pulleys work they hold so well. I usually dial indicate the run out when torqueing the hub so the belts run nice and true.
bcbloc02, Thanks Brian. I never thought of that. I just ASSumed that they would pull up true. I am just a kid and still have a lot to learn!
Northern Inventor uses taper hubs as part of a poor man's collet system. Use a commonly available size and style, you can treat them as consumable and modify to your current need. Look him up, he explains the details quite well.
bcbloc02 what doesn't a dial indicator make moar better?
Belt drives are used precisely because they are tolerant of misalignment. If it spins true to the eye, it's aligned more than well enough for a belt. making sure the pulleys are parallel is far more important.
Yeah it will work, but the more true running you can get everything the better. A slight misalignment can cause vibration in the belt and that vibration in the belt can translate into the surface finish on the work. You see a lot of the older big lathes like Monarch and Pacemaker with a giant stack of multiple belts. They don't need near that many belts to transmit the power but the more they have the more they average and smooth out the drive and you get a better finish.
hi Keith thank you for the videos. Normally I enjoy learning about stuff I have no experience with from you. However I work on a lot of motors in the field some points for your next rebuild. You can also use a bearing heater to slip fit since hammering and pressing against anything besides inner race is bad practice. You can use studs or cut the heads off long bolts to align bearing covers to motor covers. Also sheave and pulley are interchangeable terms you have a taper split bushing on a sheave/pulley. When installing prep shaft and bushing clean should have it sliding on without hammering to save bearings. All bearings have a grease capacity chart and your grease gun has a volume per pump specification. Excessive grease will reduce service life. thank you I do not mean to troll just add some good practices to help.
GOOD JOB KEITH.
Pleasure to see such a well made motor still good for another 50 years!
In the right hands - i.e. someone with a grease gun.
Wow looks fantastic! Great work. Can't wait to see the lathe run!
Aren't you now gad you got that press? It sure came in handy for this project. Thanks Keith, great series and can't wait to see the old girl run! You have done a great job on this lathe, it's beautiful.
great job kieth that will keep it running for years to come
was told it was difficult but replies have helped, I think its the phases that confuse people.
thanks
Outstanding video as always Mr. Keith.
Keith,
Before becoming a maintenance manager, I worked as an industrial maintenance tech for years. We used to rebuild electric motors of various sizes from 1/2hp to hundreds. I tell ya, a bearing heater is the bees knees when it comes to this type of work. You can also use a toaster oven at 225F as well.
I agree. For over 40 years I've also had an electric pot with clean oil and a strainer in it for heating various bearings and bushings handy for various jobs where oil wouldn't be a factor. I also had access to an induction heater when I needed. Hay, I even just recently heated a very small bearing on top of a 100watt light bulb steel lamp shield where the bearing only needed a .0002"(yes .0002" not .002") press fit on a boat windlass motor rebuild for a friend rather than tapping it on so I didn't take a chance of hurting the armature. Your comment could start a great subject matter about bearings and proper installation.
Great job.Just a thought though, as you packed the grease in tight, it will have to squeeze out somewhere when it gets hot.Perhaps you could let the motor run for a while with the lower drain plugs cracked open to relieve this pressure.
A good simple breakdown, service and reassembly. I found it very interesting Keith. Thank you
Nice work Kieth, thank you.
The motor winder's trick with the bearing retainer at the front is using a long enough piece of all-thread to line it up, then slide the front shield on and fit the bolts, unscrew the all-thread and fit the last bolt, easy and no danger of breaking the front shield with the press.
Excellent tip - thank!
Hi Keith another great Vid. I recently did the 8 hp spindle motor on the mill replacing the bearings, I also double insulated the fly leads from the feild windings and Meggered the windings to be safe, motor is 35 years old. Thought it best to play it safe after the 3.5 hp feed motor shorted in the windings and blew the 415 volt Circuit Breaker apart. Cheers.
Great job Keith , she would not be complete without a motor freshening up ! Thumbs up ..
You Sir, are an artist!
Great maintenance/video
an easier way to install the bearings is to heat them up and slide them on. use care to only heat them up to around 275 degrees F and to align the retainers cut the head off of a 4" bolt and screw the bolt (minus the head) into the retainer. this will allow you to get the retainer holes aligned. then you can use the bolts to get the retainer pulled up and the first retainer screw started. next remove only one of the alignment bolts and replace it with the correct retainer screw. repeat until all the retainer screws/bolts are in. it is best to shoulder the bearing on the rotor before installing the end bell. make sure you mark the no-drive end from the non-drive end. if you flip them the motor will not run!
good luck and love the videos
Actually that’s not necessarily true… and thats actually very uncommon on small motors like this. As long as the winding iron is in the middle of the stator, then you can flip the rotor either direction. They make them this way to be able to flip them from F1 and F2 assembly (or Right Hand and Left Hand). Been working for my dad who’s owned a electric motor repair company for 20 years now. MEM INDUSTRIAL LLC Wichita Ks
But ya shouldering the bearing on the rotor is very important and he did not do that. Using all thread to be able to install the retainers to the end bells is industry standard and is very easy. And something to add, he added WAY too much grease to those bearings. Bearings only require about 30% grease fill and he packed them until they were “tight”. The grease that comes in the bearings is actually the correct amount they need. You typically add some at the end while running the motor just to replace the little bit the bearings throw out when they first start spinning and the grease hasn’t yet “packed in”.
Hi Keith, don't be pumping anymore grease in that motor, what you put in will last your lifetime and mine. This project is turning out great. Many thanks for sharing. Kindestregards. Joe.
Hello Keith, I highly recommend using a never seize product when re-assembling everything. One of my friends (a former military aircraft/helicopter mechanic and pilot) and all around certified smart guy was adamant. I've really been glad he was/is. When taking things apart years later no comparison. I would even use it on the Browning hub. Looking at the motor and I could be wrong usually there are nine wires in the junction box to allow the selection of your voltage. I've had motors re-wired and if they know I'm going to be using it on a specific voltage sometimes they only bring 3 to the Junction box. Many years ago I used to run into motors that were 220/440/550 volts. 50/60 Hz. The higher the voltage the smaller the wire gage on home runs back to distribution. No mater what voltage the total energy demand is =.........Can't wait to see the old LeBlond running. I'll bet that machine was involved somewhere in helping us win WWII
I tend to use never seize on things that are going to be out in the weather or in a hostile environment. On a lathe that is going to be in the shop, lubed up often, etc., I just don't think it is necessary. It does not hurt, just not necessary. Consider that I took the whole thing apart with no problem and much of what I took apart had not been apart since it was built in the 1940's. No never seize was used then.
Thanks Keith, I just got in the habit of using it on everything because of that one in a hundred chance of having to
fight stuff. I'm a bit older than u and I've been around machine tools all my life. I started out running and helping my dad fix machinery over 60 years ago. Since then I've worked on heavy equipment, farm equipment, you name it unfortunately for me no steam. Love what you have accomplished.
nice job. good for another 75 years!
Looks like a new one! It'll be good to see it in the lathe and like you said, "making chips". Thanks for taking the time to make these videos; I'm sure it takes double the time to make and edit them. Some start out great guns then fizzell out and I understand why. Takes time out of the paying jobs. Been there done that when the home owner wanted to "help". Greg
Koyo is one of the top bearing manufacturers known, I believe they're Japanese but they also have a lot of different branches through out. They're mostly known in the automotive industry. I use Koyo bearings in my transmission :)
Yes, Koyo are OEM suppliers to pretty much every Japanese automaker, and anything else Japanese industry produces.
In my books, Koyo is equal in quality to SKF.
Good to know. I have a lot of respect for many of the Japanese makers - unlike most of the other Asian manufacturers. I was a bit concerned with the new bearings only cost about $10 each - I guess I just assumed that they were cheap and Chinese. When I saw Japan on them, I felt a lot better.
Yeah, I use Koyo in a lot of stuff too. Never had an issue with them.
Great vid. I can't wait to see the Lablonde in action. It's really a nice piece of equipment, especially seeing it in person.
Keith - this video was 100% perfect for where I am in a personal project. I bought a timing belt pulley and a hub and I had it assembled but I was puzzled by the 6 holes, 3 tapped, 3 not tapped. This video explains something that can be found in many shafting systems - from Electric motors to steamboats. :) - check my videos of steamboat Nyitra - the engine is vintage 1902, but it is not trying to look like a tradition/vintage steamer.. :) Thanks again Keith!
Nice update.
Those bearing were made when my grandfather worked at New Departure. He worked in the forge though. The old factory and the "new" one are just miles from my house. Everything was shut down about 25 years ago now and a lot of guys had to move to Sandusky to finish out their career for the pension.
My 1940 LeBlond has the same type of three phase motor on it.. I did the same thing to mine except mine was full of grease in the windings because the prior owner just pumped grease into the bearings without removing the purge plugs.. I put new bearings in mine, cleaned and re insulated the windings , panted the motor and all is well.. Usually about once a year I purge the bearings with fresh grease.. Mike in Louisiana
Nice job Keith
It will last the rest of are lifetime
Wonderful motor. Made when 'built to last' really truly did. Man, that LaBlond is gonna be Sweet when completed!!
Great show !!!!!
Excellent job on that motor. The only thing I did not see done was testing the Stator windings with a megaohm meter. If there was a problem having the stator windings rewound at a motor shop would not have been too expensive while it was apart.
Excellent video Keith, nice to see that lovely clean work bench getting dirty like it should be ;)
Really nice job Keith. Nice to see your "new" arbor press got some use! :)
I was waiting for a bolt to snap when putting the pulley together. The taper lock is used to mount the drive and tail rollers on the conveyors where I work. I was taught to snug the bolts by hand then go around in a circle, tightening a 1/4 turn at a time until they're all tight. Otherwise, the inner hub would cock sideways and bind the bolt, resulting in snapping it as you attempt to tighten it. Not really an issue with a v-belt pulley though as there is only 1 taper lock so the pulley would cock rather than the inner hub. The conveyor rollers have one at each end so the outer portion can't move.
As you said, there's only 25 hours in a day. Thanks for sharing Keith. Easy to see that if taken care of that motor would last a couple of lifetimes or more. Looking forward to chips, but not as much as you.
Excellent tutorial on your motor restoration and an especially great job on your editing of the video.
A good trick when dismantling an electric motor is to use a center punch to mark the frame and end bells for correct location when reassembling it. On one end of the frame make one punch mark and on the associated end bell make one punch mark in line with it. On the opposite end make two punch marks in line on the Frame and another two punch marks on the end bell and in line with the marks on the frame. This is good practice as some motor styles have different bells on each end of the frame and different bearing sizes at each end.
Great job, Keith. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Kieth, they are actually Shielded bearings the metal shielding is to stop rubbish getting in , the sealed ones have a soft rubbery seal that is very easy to pop out when you want to add the grease of your choice and the seal can go back in just as easy
In this application, the bearings are encased in a sealed chamber, which serves the same purpose as rubber or metal shields. With the added benefit of being able to add fresh grease from time to time which will make the bearings last longer.
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org
Yes I can see that , I was just pointing out the differences between them , I find the metal shielded ones in power tools and will always change them out in favor of the sealed type ( including a re-pack with some quality grease ) when they fail , they will then out last the shielded type , the way your electric motor is designed the seals aren't needed at all as it already has a very good system in place
Hey Keith I like your window covering. I have been putting up window shades to block the glare and you can open and close them when you want
I have to get me some window shades - they are on the list but they cost money. Other things are higher on the list right now....
You needed heat shrink to put over the wires. Looks good. thanks, Greg
keith nice work.
If you ever deal with a tapered hub pulley/gear flange, it might be helpful to run a tap through the push off holes and use oil. I've broken a bolt off in them before, and it's not pleasant, especially when it's still attached to the unit.
Keith's allergic to lubrication. Otherwise, he'd have simply greased the bearings and carried on running it.
have a similar 3 phase Utility motor on my stand up grinder, want to do the same bearing upgrade, video was helpful and encouraging.....thank you Keith
My South Bend lathe had all New Departure bearings in it. I found N.O.S. ones on Ebay for a fraction of the price a local bearing place wanted for them.
Oh so close to making chips. Good video on the motor service. Now let's take it apart and scrape it in!😉😉
I won't say that this machine will never get scraped, but my plan is to just get it working for now. I will scrape in the 16" Monarch and once that one is running - as well as the big Monarch, I might go back and do some more work on the LeBlond. Time will tell.....
looks like a good job. why did you not check the amp draw after rebuild? that would have high lighted any issues with your rebuild if any.
Hello Keith, inner bearings races seems to have more tight fit than on outer. So I think the best is to press both bearings fully on the rotor first (to the shaft shoulder) and after this is done can be assembled enclosing covers. I think it is safer way because can to prevent damaging the castings. Also I am sure that is possible to get open style bearings the same like originals. But good job anyway. I am enjoying watching your videos.
hey keithe i would just like to say im a machinist for a eletrick motor service company and it seems your ope housing fit might of been to loose. (opposite pulley end). you can find propper fits for the housings and shafts for bearings on NTN bearings website. if that housing is bad it can cause alot of problems down the road weather today or in a year it could trash the whole motor
Nice job! Thanks for sharing.
For those motor leads, I would highly recommend removing the tape and using heat-shrink tubing instead. It's much lower-profile and won't work its way loose with grease and vibration, and adds some strength and protection to the wires. It also looks much nicer.
I totally agree with you about the heat-shrink tubing but would have prefered that there was a connecting block in there too!
The problem with heat shrink is you cannot work your way back into the system without have to clean up a bunch of gunk from the glue. Insulating tape is probably the best.
@@Sak-zo1ui Apparently you are not aware that there are different kinds of heat-shrink, and that there is plain heat-shrink that is not glue-lined. The plain heat-shrink would be the most appropriate in this location.
At the plant I worked at we had a lot of motors we changed the bearings and used sealed bearings because our greaser would never grease them. That old motor is a good one we had some running that was put in when plant was built 30 years ago and still running.
fire the greaser!
jusb1066
Mmm...
Classy.
+big ralph seeing as his job is grease and he misses greasing important jobs, seems fair to me, unless you want to employ me to be a greaser, id happily take the money and not do anything!
jusb1066
You don't fool me one bit.
I've had preventative maintenance work orders that called for me to grease motors every week. I had to pencil-whip those, except for once or twice a year. The management couldn't be bothered to change them on the say-so of a lowly maintenance man. lol
Nice job
Koyo make excellent bearings, they are OEM suppliers to just about every Japanese auto maker.
Those bearings are shielded, not sealed. Small difference, the shielding keeps dirt and gunk out, but doesn't actually seal. If they were in a wet environment they would fail, but in your application they are perfect.
When you grease a motor such as this one, take the purge plugs out, with the motor static, pump grease in until the old grease comes out of the purge plugs, then run for a minute or two until more grease comes out.. Then put the purge plugs back in.. Many motors have been ruined by just pumping grease into them.. Grease can come out inside and get into the windings causing temperature rise and motor failure... Mike in Louisiana
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Given the apparent condition of the surface of that motor, how did you prep the motor for painting? I ask because I never seem to know when to quit. Thank you.
Keith,
It looks like someone use some "Abom torque" on your arbor press, seeing is how the handle is bent! Thanks for the video! I hope you have some time to get the old gal running!
Have a good one!
Dave
Nice job Keith!
JIm
Nice video.....as always.
Great video Keith , as always i realy enjoy your video's.
Now i'm quarantined with covid at home i'm gonna watch 'm all .
Thats my therapuethic plan for my recovery 😁😉
Grtz from the netherlands Johny geerts
I have a couple of motors that look a lot like that.
One 1/2hp and one 1 1hp.
They look huge for the power they put out.
Nice arbor press as well.
Did not know the Dake brand.
Yes, that press turned out to be a canny investment and the star of the show. Good video. Regards
made right here in grand haven Michigan. I love my DAKE
I have checked their website.
Unfortunately way too expensive for me to ship one to Europe as I have never seen Greenerd's, Dake's or Famco's over here.
That was a huge amount of grease for those bearings. Matchmarking end housings is always recommended. Can a VSR be used on ANY 3 phase 220VAC motor? Do the hot wires have to be connected in any sequence?
after the 75 years in what condition was the insulation on the windings. I have found the lacquer on the old windings deteriorate and then short out with some revived use, especially if the terminating protruding wires are pulled around too much and tugged on..
also the bearing caps should be greased but not packed solid with grease. A filled chamber of grease increases the drag on the bearings. The grease is churned up and overheats. generally 3/4 filled is ample.
Again thanks for the video/
Good job, what do you clean the ID. Plates with that gets them clean with out wiping the lettering off from the stamping?
You should have swaddled the bearing in a water soaked cloth and heated it in a microwave to slide the bearing on the shaft w/o scoring it. I thought it was BS but I tried it and it works like a charm for medium to large bearings. Working in an amusement park I do quite a few motor
Nice! Good job! Thanks for sharing.
They built them to last back in the day didn't they Keith.
Can't wait to see the old girl throwing chips again.
Cheer's !
Another great video!!!
when possible always spin motor over to clean up shafts before pulling end caps can prevent major headaches in some instances
Very helpful video! Thank you!
Good job! I like the curtains, wooden boxes and..... hey! is that my belt sander that was stolen off'n my porch??!?!?!?
great work, what is the brand of paint you use?
G'Day Keith, Think you'll find that your new Koyo bearings are shielded as opposed to being sealed. If they have the designation "zz" meaning shields on both sides that is the case. Regards Dave
You don't use PB Blaster or other penetrating oils for disassembly? Cant wait to see those chips flying!
We would use a induction bearing heater to install the bearings, pressing bearings on a arbour press could damage the bearings
Keith, That came off way to easy did you work on it off camera or did you get extremely lucky. I have worked with those types of pulleys on fan motors and other equipment on the farm and I've never had one come off that easy that was on for that long. just a tip for reinstall, use never seize on the taper. Just curious. I love watching your videos. I have learned a lot from watching. keep up the good work.
No, it was really just that easy. I have had others that were more of a pain, but usually the Taper Lock pulleys don't give me much trouble.
Hi Keith
Did you get your phase converter hooked up yet?
good job.
Hey Keith! I think it is 60 cycles per minute! Stay healthy.
Super!!! thanks for sharing
my old 31 south bend came with a fairbanks mores 3 hp i wonder how well it will work lol i'm thinking of using it to run the linse shaft for all the machines but that may be asking a lot .
you can buy a bg6206a01 open slush bearing that don't have the shields on them that is the exact same as the C3. we put a dab of grease in the end plate before assembly.
just passing that along for those who want to do it like factories do.
Wow Keith. Those z style bearings are made for an oil bath environment. You should have gone with 2RB style bearings, they are pre lubed and will last quite a bit of time w/o any future Lubrication.
Those are pre lubed bearings. They have grease in them. They are not “designed for an oil bath”. You don’t put sheilded bearings in an oil bath. That’s what open bearings are for. And btw, you mean 2RS.
ZZ is 2 shields and
2RS is 2 Rubber Seals
Open has nothing