08:58 Thanks for showing this tip!! I had the same situation on a Nissan 240sx. The manual impact hammer got 3 of the 4 screws off, which used some type of serrated locking washer. The last screw was completely rounded off. I was really trying to avoid to welding a nut on there. After drilling the head off, the stub easily spun off.
I haven't watched the whole video, so I don't know if they mention it, but those original striker plate screws are NOT Phillips but a rarer animal called Pozidriv! Using a Phillips #4 on these original screws will chew them up, which is maybe why so many end up this way. A Phillips driver will feel loose in the screw and they are designed to 'cam out' if too much torque is applied, to avoid sheering off the screw head. A Pozidriv is designed not to slide out and fits these screws perfectly. I have been working on these stuck screws for a couple of weeks now and ended up getting the Pozidriv bit from Amazon. I was also able to squirt some penetrating oil on the back of the striker plate, down past the rear window when it was completely down. No need to remove any panels, I have a '67 Mustang Convertible. The manual impact driver didn't touch it, but my son and I were able to finally do it just yesterday by putting the driver bit socket on a ratchet handle, he pushed the ratchet in as much as he could into the screw head and I pulled up on the handle. They both came off quite easily, though this could have been the penetrating oil had finally worked as we didn't try the impact driver yesterday. What is amazing though, is that the car no longer has that annoying cowl shake that I used to get at 50mph, since I have been able to tighten both doors! This is why I started all this as I had noticed that there was no more shake when I very rarely drove it with the roof up.
@andy rush, we've not done that before. Most of the cars get some amount of water in the latch/quarter glass area if they see any wet weather. There are scuppers in the sills that should let the water out.
I believe that you are missing that you need to use a Pozi Drive #4 screwdriver and not a Phillips head #4 screwdriver. My 66 mustang used Pozi Drive screws as it can be torqued to a higher setting which a normal Phillips cannot. I found them on Lowe’s website for $7 and screws came out with a ratchet driver easily, where a Phillips could not.
Tried the hand held hammer blow impact Philips about 38 times. Beginnings of deforming the screw bit socket. Removing striker to remove painters spray over of the latch. Will retain original to car date coded striker plate, after getting it and screw heads back to original finish. Considered heat. Worried about the surrounding paint. Will try heat next, after seeing your tutorial worked out!!!
I'd have just used the old broken exhaust stud trick, plug-weld a nut onto the screw head with a mig welder, was a bit surprised that the tiny torch worked so well.
Mikeys Garage Good idea too Mike. We went at this with the idea that a guy in any garage can put this one together and do it. Looked at several options that were more "financially" complex, and landed on the one that was the least expensive and seemed to work a treat.
Mine stripped even with heat, tried to drill the bolt out and my drill bits wont cut it out? Are the bolts hardened? I tried several new bits? I have a 69 Ranchero. Thanks
Hi Guys! Good info as you always provide. Was hoping for a link in the discription box for Cam's little butane torch. Will Google it. Cheers from Motown.
Had to fix some rust in my fairlane just above the striker. My striker luckily came out with just my little impact and a thick Philips drive that fit. Finally got a break for once.
AutoRestoMod Car Restoration Modification thanks very much for the reply, if that inner mount is not there to screw into an I out of luck? I’m working with an 01 Toyota Camry and the striker is so loose the door won’t shut, however there seems that there is nothing on the back side to screw into.
Im only at the 5.25 make and i just had an idea ? Once heated apply water to temper the steel will stop it from stripping (hopefuly)i will shut up and watch the rest now
This guy purposely shoots himself in the foot to show us how to dig ourselves out. My man. Subscribed.
Jeff, I laughed so hard when you got the door striker correctly the first time..... Funny. Thanks for the tickle! Good info !
08:58 Thanks for showing this tip!! I had the same situation on a Nissan 240sx. The manual impact hammer got 3 of the 4 screws off, which used some type of serrated locking washer. The last screw was completely rounded off. I was really trying to avoid to welding a nut on there. After drilling the head off, the stub easily spun off.
Love your videos, very detailed and clear... step by step. Simply great!
Greetings from Uruguay!!!
I haven't watched the whole video, so I don't know if they mention it, but those original striker plate screws are NOT Phillips but a rarer animal called Pozidriv! Using a Phillips #4 on these original screws will chew them up, which is maybe why so many end up this way.
A Phillips driver will feel loose in the screw and they are designed to 'cam out' if too much torque is applied, to avoid sheering off the screw head. A Pozidriv is designed not to slide out and fits these screws perfectly.
I have been working on these stuck screws for a couple of weeks now and ended up getting the Pozidriv bit from Amazon. I was also able to squirt some penetrating oil on the back of the striker plate, down past the rear window when it was completely down. No need to remove any panels, I have a '67 Mustang Convertible.
The manual impact driver didn't touch it, but my son and I were able to finally do it just yesterday by putting the driver bit socket on a ratchet handle, he pushed the ratchet in as much as he could into the screw head and I pulled up on the handle. They both came off quite easily, though this could have been the penetrating oil had finally worked as we didn't try the impact driver yesterday.
What is amazing though, is that the car no longer has that annoying cowl shake that I used to get at 50mph, since I have been able to tighten both doors! This is why I started all this as I had noticed that there was no more shake when I very rarely drove it with the roof up.
Dude your freakin awesome for showing worst case scenarios even if it worked out in your situation well done video
@andy rush, we've not done that before. Most of the cars get some amount of water in the latch/quarter glass area if they see any wet weather. There are scuppers in the sills that should let the water out.
I believe that you are missing that you need to use a Pozi Drive #4 screwdriver and not a Phillips head #4 screwdriver. My 66 mustang used Pozi Drive screws as it can be torqued to a higher setting which a normal Phillips cannot. I found them on Lowe’s website for $7 and screws came out with a ratchet driver easily, where a Phillips could not.
Good info as always, very useful and those puppies can be a pain to take out and then realign.
Tried the hand held hammer blow impact Philips about 38 times. Beginnings of deforming the screw bit socket. Removing striker to remove painters spray over of the latch. Will retain original to car date coded striker plate, after getting it and screw heads back to original finish. Considered heat. Worried about the surrounding paint. Will try heat next, after seeing your tutorial worked out!!!
Recently did a 64 Galaxie in my shop, had to heat them and use an impact driver!
I'd have just used the old broken exhaust stud trick, plug-weld a nut onto the screw head with a mig welder, was a bit surprised that the tiny torch worked so well.
Mikeys Garage Good idea too Mike. We went at this with the idea that a guy in any garage can put this one together and do it. Looked at several options that were more "financially" complex, and landed on the one that was the least expensive and seemed to work a treat.
My 68 stang is at my tech school and I currently have no access to it. What size Bit did you use?
Mine stripped even with heat, tried to drill the bolt out and my drill bits wont cut it out? Are the bolts hardened? I tried several new bits? I have a 69 Ranchero. Thanks
If you were rehanging the door would you leave the striker off and align the body lines first on the hinges THEN mount / align the striker?
mcinkyt Yes.
Practical, detailed guide. Can you explain females next?
Buy a Playstation game and run it on your XBOX
Now you understand ....
SixtyFiveDropTop We could but, they already have a price on our head....
Hi Guys! Good info as you always provide. Was hoping for a link in the discription box for Cam's little butane torch. Will Google it. Cheers from Motown.
Harbor Freight has some that are pretty decent
Had to fix some rust in my fairlane just above the striker. My striker luckily came out with just my little impact and a thick Philips drive that fit. Finally got a break for once.
Every once in a great while the car angels descend and we get a break...not often...but every now and then. 😆
What do the new screws screw into?
They screw into a plate that mounts to the inner side of the B Pillar.
AutoRestoMod Car Restoration Modification thanks very much for the reply, if that inner mount is not there to screw into an I out of luck? I’m working with an 01 Toyota Camry and the striker is so loose the door won’t shut, however there seems that there is nothing on the back side to screw into.
Im only at the 5.25 make and i just had an idea ? Once heated apply water to temper the steel will stop it from stripping (hopefuly)i will shut up and watch the rest now
A question you've never been asked before
What are the dimensions of your shop?
mcinkyt 36x36. But the camera adds 10lbs. =)
Don't forget trying left handed drill bits. You may get lucky and it will catch and drill out
Jeff Driver Good idea Jeff! We went for the "everybody has one of these in the shed" approach.