I have a 63 and a 68. im doing this on the 68. the tip i will contribute........if you are able, it is so much easier if you can remove the gas tank first. a lot more room to move.
I totally agree with your advice to use flare nut wrenches for working on brake lines. Like you I waited until my 50s. I wish I had bought them a long time ago. It would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Great video!
Good Job . I Did Hundreds Of These Working For Volkswagen And Audi Dealers For 33 Years Starting In The Early 70's So Been There Done That And Everything Else You Could Possibly Do On Any Air Cooled VW.
In my case I had to dig out 3 different size 11mm spanners because the bolt kept on slipping. Its a weird size and using a flare wrench really will help a lot.
Question: How difficult was it to take off those white plastic tubes from the master cylinder and then reinstall? I always thought those tubes were not meant to be removed and in doing so may end up having a leak?
Yep. They're not great. The plastic is pretty hard as are the blue rubber break tubes. It's not a fun part of the job. If the blue tubes aren't cracked or leaking, don't replace them.
Ty for your video very well made, my VW beetle 1966 start to leak front the grommet inside the cabin, seems that is not to much, how good are my chances that only refurbishing will be ok. Thanks for your help
Master cylinders are so inexpensive, that I don't think it makes sense to try to refurbish the old one. However, I have never tried to refurbish an old master cylinder. You might get a different answer from someone who has. Also, my VWs are my drivers, so I prefer whichever method gets the vehicle on the road faster. If you have a restoration project which you can let sit for a while, your chances of success with refurbishing the old one go up.
Great Video. I had the exact same problem with my '68 Ghia's front brakes locking up and eventually brake fluid coming out of the rear of the center tunnel. So hopefully my new master cylinder will solve that problem. Just one question. Did you bench bleed your master? Thanks, Dwight
Dwight, I did not bench bleed the master. Bench bleeding is easier and more effective if you have a big master cylinder with the reservoir on top, as a single piece.
If one isn't speaking French when working on a car, one isn't doing it properly. I'd like to know your bleed procedure. I replaced my Type 1 with a large bore MC for a full disc conversion and cannot get the front brakes to bleed.
I have the standard setup with discs up front and drums in the rear, so my situation is different. I just did what I was taught in autoshop in high school. Start with the rear passenger wheel, then rear driver's wheel, then passenger front, finish with driver's front. "Can't get the front brakes to bleed" is open to much interpretation. Do you mean fluid won't even flow through? or do you mean the air bubbles never stop? or something else entirely. If the air bubbles never stop, you may have a leak which is sucking air back into the system.
I'm doing my brakes now. I have a 1970 VW that sat for 28 years so I'm replacing the whole brakes. Thanks for the tips.
Great tips. Thank you for this video!! ✌️
I have a 63 and a 68. im doing this on the 68. the tip i will contribute........if you are able, it is so much easier if you can remove the gas tank first. a lot more room to move.
I totally agree with your advice to use flare nut wrenches for working on brake lines. Like you I waited until my 50s. I wish I had bought them a long time ago. It would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Great video!
Good Job . I Did Hundreds Of These Working For Volkswagen And Audi Dealers For 33 Years Starting In The Early 70's So Been There Done That And Everything Else You Could Possibly Do On Any Air Cooled VW.
In my case I had to dig out 3 different size 11mm spanners because the bolt kept on slipping. Its a weird size and using a flare wrench really will help a lot.
Thanks for the info.!!!
Thank you for posting the video, several great tips. A link to buy the wrench would be great.
I picked some up at Lowe's a few weeks ago.
Question: How difficult was it to take off those white plastic tubes from the master cylinder and then reinstall? I always thought those tubes were not meant to be removed and in doing so may end up having a leak?
Yep. They're not great. The plastic is pretty hard as are the blue rubber break tubes. It's not a fun part of the job. If the blue tubes aren't cracked or leaking, don't replace them.
Ty for your video very well made, my VW beetle 1966 start to leak front the grommet inside the cabin, seems that is not to much, how good are my chances that only refurbishing will be ok. Thanks for your help
Master cylinders are so inexpensive, that I don't think it makes sense to try to refurbish the old one. However, I have never tried to refurbish an old master cylinder. You might get a different answer from someone who has. Also, my VWs are my drivers, so I prefer whichever method gets the vehicle on the road faster. If you have a restoration project which you can let sit for a while, your chances of success with refurbishing the old one go up.
Great Video. I had the exact same problem with my '68 Ghia's front brakes locking up and eventually brake fluid coming out of the rear of the center tunnel. So hopefully my new master cylinder will solve that problem. Just one question. Did you bench bleed your master?
Thanks, Dwight
Dwight, I did not bench bleed the master. Bench bleeding is easier and more effective if you have a big master cylinder with the reservoir on top, as a single piece.
Why 2 brake light switches? Neewby to all this. Great video will but the tool
If one isn't speaking French when working on a car, one isn't doing it properly. I'd like to know your bleed procedure. I replaced my Type 1 with a large bore MC for a full disc conversion and cannot get the front brakes to bleed.
I have the standard setup with discs up front and drums in the rear, so my situation is different. I just did what I was taught in autoshop in high school. Start with the rear passenger wheel, then rear driver's wheel, then passenger front, finish with driver's front. "Can't get the front brakes to bleed" is open to much interpretation. Do you mean fluid won't even flow through? or do you mean the air bubbles never stop? or something else entirely. If the air bubbles never stop, you may have a leak which is sucking air back into the system.
if this is a drum brake set up you have left out the 3 required residusal pressure valves.
They said it is disc/drum at around the 7:30 mark. But is good to bring up nonetheless