Thank you, thank you, thank you for your video. I was able to repair my 65 yr old beloved 1033 which just stopped working and the whistle was hit and miss. You took the mystery out of it. Gary O
What kind of a diode do I need? And what kind of circuit breaker? And where is the best place to buy them? And can I use an ordinary record? Or do I really need a non polarized chord?
@@jimjameskelly Hello, Jim! I used a Bussman UCB-6 6 amp, 12 volt thermal circuit breaker, which you can get on Amazon. I used a Repair Station 16 amp bolt rectifier diode purchased on EBay. The replacement power cord for a 1033 transformer need not be a polarized cord. Using a polarized cord will not hurt anything.
Hello! I’ve been having some problems with my own 1033. The A post has appeared to have stopped working, and before when it was working, every couple of minutes the transformer would start rapidly cutting out. Do you think you would know what would be causing this issue? Nice informative video by the way, certainly teached me a lot!
Hello NG, and thank you for the question. Let's try to eliminate some of the potential causes: 1. Is the problem with the A post or with other components of the transformer? Instead of connecting track wires to the U-A posts, try connecting to the U-B posts instead, and see whether the same problem exists when running trains on the U-B connection. You may notice the trains run slower on the U-B connection, but that is normal. The U-B connection outputs 11 volts, while the U-A connection outputs 16 volts. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage output for U-A, U-B, and A-C connections. The A-C connections should output a constant 16 volts. 2. If the U-B connection works fine, we can focus solely on the U-A connection. If the U-B connection is also dead or cuts out, then the problem likely lies with the circuit breaker. For safety's sake, WHEN IN DOUBT, REPLACE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER! See Part II of this video for circuit breaker replacement instructions. 3. If the problem rests solely with the U-A connection, resolder the #4 wire to the A post and check again. There should be power to the A post if the #4 wire is good and the solder joint is solid. Before going into more arcane possibilities, try the above first and please let me know how things turn out! Kind regards, Pete
@@peterfenzel4742 I appreciate the response! I tried the U-B connection and that did not work, however the U-C connection worked just fine. I put a multimeter up to the U-A posts and it appears to be working just fine when it’s not connected to any track, same goes for the U-B. So perhaps the main issue is the breaker?
@@NotGavin yes, I would replace the breaker as the most likely culprit. It is easy to do and inexpensive. You can see how to install a new breaker in part two of this video. Good luck! Please let me know how things work out.
@@peterfenzel4742hey! One more question if ya don’t mind, would i need to rip out the old breaker to install the new Busman breaker? Or could i just have the new breaker alongside the old one?
Both handles come off by gently prying directly upwards. If it's sticking, use a rigid plastic pry bar if possible. If you don't have a pry bar, use two flat screw drivers on either side and gentle twist until it loosens up.
Hi. Firstly, thank you for both videos. They were very informative and saved me from buying another transformer since I had given up on mine. Can you give me some additional Info on the Diode? I shopped for a 16 amp rectifier diode and there's many different volts, positive cathode, negative anode... my head was spinning, LOL. Thanks
Hello Frank, and thanks for the kind words! Don't get all confused about polarities of the diode. The 1033 DC current for the whistle works whether the polarity is + or -. Here is a link to a 16 amp stud diode from Just Trains: store.justtrains.com/16-Amp-Whistle-Diode_p_2682.html This will work in your 1033 transformer. There are cheaper barrel diodes, but those have soldering issues. Hope this helps.
Most after market replacement plugs are already tinned, and are not grounded. It does not matter which of the 2 wires slips through each of the contact holes.
Thanks for the video. My transformer wire is in good shape but the plug is stripped and disconnected. Could I simply twist connect a new chord and plug to the existing chord, or is it best to get a new chord and solder in to the connectors?
@@schwartz2138 Hello Andrew, and thanks for the inquiry. First, never use a power cord or plug that shows fraying or damage. Second, while there are many aftermarket "Lionel" or "L" replacement power cords available on EBay and Amazon for $4 - $6 your local hardware store will have plenty of suitable power cords. You can use a replacement plug on the existing power cord, but they are less secure and subject to failure over time. Your transformer, when properly cared for, could last another generation or two, maybe more! Why not spend $4 - $6 for a power solution that will last?
New power chords have one plug larger than the other so they can only be incepted into a plug one way. Does this make a difference which way a new chord is installed? Holding off installing a new chord for your answer.
The 1033 is not designed for the "newer" grounded power cords. It should not make a difference which way you install it, but the better course is to buy an inexpensive cord meant for your transformer. This link: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=lionel+power+cords&_sacat=0 will lead you to an entire page of suitable aftermarket power cords for the 1033 on EBay.
Great video. Can you give me some detail on the power cord replacement? In the video you just stuck the wires through the holes. Did you solder them in?
Would you replace my 1033 rectifier disc and install the Busman thermocircuit-breaker if I shipped the 1033 to you and paid you (new cord is already installed)?
Hello, Valliant1! As have mentioned in the past, I do this as a labor of love, not for pay. So, no thanks but I do not take repair orders. The cost of mailing a 1033 back and forth would alone equal the expense of buying a well functioning one online.The cost of parts and labor on top of mailing is not worth it. That being the case, why not give it a try yourself?
@@TheRhythmKnights A 16 amp rectifier diode works well. Here is a link to the seller of diodes I use. www.ebay.com/itm/201466844389 I do not have any relationship with the seller.
HI Peter, I recently bought a 1033 that wasn't working. The power cord had crumbled. I opened up the casing and changed the cord and tried to power up. The power works and the voltage to the posts is correct, but only if I use the whistle switch in the "on" position. In the resting position of the whistle switch, there is no power to the speed switch. The rectifier disk is original, but looks pretty clean. Not sure if the original circuit breaker is working properly, although it does look very clean. Any ideas?
Hello, Claudio! Thanks for the interesting question. To figure out this problem I am going to assume that you checked all the wiring, and that the wires are all clean, tight, and solidly soldered in place. Before you do anything, unplug the transformer. The whistle runs on Direct Current independently from the engine motor and accessories, which run on household Alternating Current. It sounds like there is no AC voltage running from the core of the transformer to the binding posts. There is DC voltage, however, running to the binding posts through the rectifier Let's consider the possibilities: 1. The Core - The core is functioning and producing nominal voltage to the binding posts when the whistle is engaged. So that's probably not our culprit. 2. The Circuit Breaker - If the circuit breaker were dead you would not get power to the binding posts at all. So that's probably not the likely culprit. 3. The Contacts - There are several copper contacts embedded into the fiber platform for the whistle/direction switch shaft assembly. These should be sanded shiny for good connectivity, as should the winged contact on the shaft. These only impact the whistle and direction control. Neither, however, would prevent AC current from reaching the binding posts.So these are unlikely culprits. Having exhausted possible culprits from the core, the wiring, and the left side of the transformer, we now focus our attention on the right side. 4. The Control Shaft Assembly - This is what regulates voltage from the core to the binding posts. There are only 4 components to this assembly: the handle, the control shaft itself, the contact arm, and square holed washer. The contact arm runs along the core. Its position along the core determines how much voltage reaches the binding posts. If the contact arm is not making contact with the core, there will be no AC running to the binding posts. Check the contact arm's position and contact tension with the core. This is my prime suspect. If the contact arm is fine, then there must be some break in a wire from the core or ground. In such a case, would strongly recommend that you either have a professional repair the 1033 or throw out the transformer before you attempt to replace the core wires. You would be getting into areas meant for experienced technicians and risk electrocution.
@@cee1bee1 The simplest repair of the rectifier is to buy a new rectifier disc, remove the fast nut, take off the old disc, put on the new one, and reattach the fast nut. The videos give details of the stud diodes and thermal breakers.
@@peterfenzel4742 Thanks for a terrific and very detailed response. I'm with you on the potential issues you identified. This morning I removed all the existing soldered connections as well as the old rectifier disc. I cleaned everything including the disc and lubricated with dielectric grease. Re-soldered all the wires and low behold, it works perfectly now. I was actually getting 22.6 volts before from the U-A connection (which I know was wrong) and now it reads 16.2 on the meter. All the other voltages are now correct as well. So other than a few cents worth of grease, solder and electricity I'm in the pink. Thanks again for a super response, excellent video and for sharing your love of fixing old stuff instead of tossing into the land fills. Stay safe, stay healthy and I look forward to you next videos. So long from your neighbour to the north.
Hello Robert! Thank you for the question. I cannot see any link to the 16 amp diode you referenced. The Repair Station 16 amp diode i mentioned in earlier comments is the one I use for my 1033's and KW's.
Hi Peter, what did you use to clean up the transformers face? Yours came out very clean mine was stored poorly but I cant seem to get it looking like yours without scratching it up. Also what did you use to clean the pins, did you just do the rust trick like with the screws?
Joe Bonneau Hi Joe! I clean the case of the transformer with baking soda and vinegar scrubbed with an old toothbrush. Cold water rinses off the baking soda thoroughly. Once dry, I give the case a light hit with Pledge and a tissue
Peter Fenzel Ok, thanks for the response. I was able to piece the reverse/whistle handle mechanism and spring back together in time for my granddaughters to come and play with the train in time for Christmas. It was tricky getting the retaining nut to stay on the shaft under the fiber board but I was able to slide a small piece of wood to keep it from falling off without binding the movement.
@@dalecollisson3293 Isn't it satisfying, Dale, to take something old that once was fine, and to restore it to good working order? I am sure your granddaughters loved playing with the train almost as much as you did!
I picked up 2 of these today for $5 apiece...they both work, but I do plan on replacing both power cords. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for your video. I was able to repair my 65 yr old beloved 1033 which just stopped working and the whistle was hit and miss. You took the mystery out of it. Gary O
Great, Gary! You are most welcome!
@@peterfenzel4742 Those 6A breakers are in short supply. I had to order them four times before I found a supplier on ebay.
@@Problemchildracing Never had trouble finding them, Gary, but happy you were able to buy them in the end.
I Have One Of These Trains But Its So Old It Doesnt Work Thanks For The Instructions
What kind of a diode do I need? And what kind of circuit breaker? And where is the best place to buy them?
And can I use an ordinary record? Or do I really need a non polarized chord?
@@jimjameskelly Hello, Jim! I used a Bussman UCB-6 6 amp, 12 volt thermal circuit breaker, which you can get on Amazon.
I used a Repair Station 16 amp bolt rectifier diode purchased on EBay.
The replacement power cord for a 1033 transformer need not be a polarized cord. Using a polarized cord will not hurt anything.
Thanks
Get a block of wood to support the transformer and a Dremel tool for cutting
Hello! I’ve been having some problems with my own 1033. The A post has appeared to have stopped working, and before when it was working, every couple of minutes the transformer would start rapidly cutting out. Do you think you would know what would be causing this issue? Nice informative video by the way, certainly teached me a lot!
Hello NG, and thank you for the question. Let's try to eliminate some of the potential causes:
1. Is the problem with the A post or with other components of the transformer? Instead of connecting track wires to the U-A posts, try connecting to the U-B posts instead, and see whether the same problem exists when running trains on the U-B connection. You may notice the trains run slower on the U-B connection, but that is normal. The U-B connection outputs 11 volts, while the U-A connection outputs 16 volts. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage output for U-A, U-B, and A-C connections. The A-C connections should output a constant 16 volts.
2. If the U-B connection works fine, we can focus solely on the U-A connection. If the U-B connection is also dead or cuts out, then the problem likely lies with the circuit breaker. For safety's sake, WHEN IN DOUBT, REPLACE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER! See Part II of this video for circuit breaker replacement instructions.
3. If the problem rests solely with the U-A connection, resolder the #4 wire to the A post and check again. There should be power to the A post if the #4 wire is good and the solder joint is solid.
Before going into more arcane possibilities, try the above first and please let me know how things turn out!
Kind regards,
Pete
@@peterfenzel4742 I appreciate the response! I tried the U-B connection and that did not work, however the U-C connection worked just fine. I put a multimeter up to the U-A posts and it appears to be working just fine when it’s not connected to any track, same goes for the U-B. So perhaps the main issue is the breaker?
@@NotGavin yes, I would replace the breaker as the most likely culprit. It is easy to do and inexpensive. You can see how to install a new breaker in part two of this video. Good luck! Please let me know how things work out.
@@peterfenzel4742 Will do! Thanks for the assistance!
@@peterfenzel4742hey! One more question if ya don’t mind, would i need to rip out the old breaker to install the new Busman breaker? Or could i just have the new breaker alongside the old one?
Inserted not incepted.
I ordered power cord and handles for mine. How does the Speed handle come off? Whistle handle had broken shaft.
Both handles come off by gently prying directly upwards. If it's sticking, use a rigid plastic pry bar if possible. If you don't have a pry bar, use two flat screw drivers on either side and gentle twist until it loosens up.
@@cee1bee1 Thank You!
Hi. Firstly, thank you for both videos. They were very informative and saved me from buying another transformer since I had given up on mine. Can you give me some additional Info on the Diode? I shopped for a 16 amp rectifier diode and there's many different volts, positive cathode, negative anode... my head was spinning, LOL. Thanks
Hello Frank, and thanks for the kind words! Don't get all confused about polarities of the diode. The 1033 DC current for the whistle works whether the polarity is + or -. Here is a link to a 16 amp stud diode from Just Trains: store.justtrains.com/16-Amp-Whistle-Diode_p_2682.html This will work in your 1033 transformer. There are cheaper barrel diodes, but those have soldering issues. Hope this helps.
Do you remember which wire from the plug goes to which point? Like for outlet prongs
Most after market replacement plugs are already tinned, and are not grounded. It does not matter which of the 2 wires slips through each of the contact holes.
Thanks for the video. My transformer wire is in good shape but the plug is stripped and disconnected. Could I simply twist connect a new chord and plug to the existing chord, or is it best to get a new chord and solder in to the connectors?
@@schwartz2138 Hello Andrew, and thanks for the inquiry. First, never use a power cord or plug that shows fraying or damage. Second, while there are many aftermarket "Lionel" or "L" replacement power cords available on EBay and Amazon for $4 - $6 your local hardware store will have plenty of suitable power cords.
You can use a replacement plug on the existing power cord, but they are less secure and subject to failure over time. Your transformer, when properly cared for, could last another generation or two, maybe more! Why not spend $4 - $6 for a power solution that will last?
Would you please tell me where to find the diode? This is a very helpful video.
They are readily available on Ebay.
So, my speed doesn’t work and it’s always full speed and the whistle doesn’t work, what do I need to replace?
ThatJadon 26 same, sometimes my 227 Canadian national will go without the throttle lever on, and sometimes it won’t even move.
Sounds like your wiring is all wrong.
New power chords have one plug larger than the other so they can only be incepted into a plug one way. Does this make a difference which way a new chord is installed? Holding off installing a new chord for your answer.
The 1033 is not designed for the "newer" grounded power cords. It should not make a difference which way you install it, but the better course is to buy an inexpensive cord meant for your transformer. This link: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=lionel+power+cords&_sacat=0 will lead you to an entire page of suitable aftermarket power cords for the 1033 on EBay.
@@peterfenzel4742 Thanks. Ordered 1.
Great video. Can you give me some detail on the power cord replacement? In the video you just stuck the wires through the holes. Did you solder them in?
Yes, of course, they are soldered in place. Most replacement cords intended for Lionel transformers are tinned, so soldering is fast and easy.
Would you replace my 1033 rectifier disc and install the Busman thermocircuit-breaker if I shipped the 1033 to you and paid you (new cord is already installed)?
Hello, Valliant1!
As have mentioned in the past, I do this as a labor of love, not for pay. So, no thanks but I do not take repair orders.
The cost of mailing a 1033 back and forth would alone equal the expense of buying a well functioning one online.The cost of parts and labor on top of mailing is not worth it.
That being the case, why not give it a try yourself?
@@peterfenzel4742 thank you … what amp diode should I get?
@@TheRhythmKnights A 16 amp rectifier diode works well. Here is a link to the seller of diodes I use. www.ebay.com/itm/201466844389 I do not have any relationship with the seller.
HI Peter, I recently bought a 1033 that wasn't working. The power cord had crumbled. I opened up the casing and changed the cord and tried to power up. The power works and the voltage to the posts is correct, but only if I use the whistle switch in the "on" position. In the resting position of the whistle switch, there is no power to the speed switch. The rectifier disk is original, but looks pretty clean. Not sure if the original circuit breaker is working properly, although it does look very clean. Any ideas?
If I do have to replace the rectifier with a diode and a new circuit breaker, do you have the type of diode and breaker I need?
Hello, Claudio! Thanks for the interesting question.
To figure out this problem I am going to assume that you checked all the wiring, and that the wires are all clean, tight, and solidly soldered in place. Before you do anything, unplug the transformer.
The whistle runs on Direct Current independently from the engine motor and accessories, which run on household Alternating Current. It sounds like there is no AC voltage running from the core of the transformer to the binding posts. There is DC voltage, however, running to the binding posts through the rectifier Let's consider the possibilities:
1. The Core - The core is functioning and producing nominal voltage to the binding posts when the whistle is engaged. So that's probably not our culprit.
2. The Circuit Breaker - If the circuit breaker were dead you would not get power to the binding posts at all. So that's probably not the likely culprit.
3. The Contacts - There are several copper contacts embedded into the fiber platform for the whistle/direction switch shaft assembly. These should be sanded shiny for good connectivity, as should the winged contact on the shaft. These only impact the whistle and direction control. Neither, however, would prevent AC current from reaching the binding posts.So these are unlikely culprits.
Having exhausted possible culprits from the core, the wiring, and the left side of the transformer, we now focus our attention on the right side.
4. The Control Shaft Assembly - This is what regulates voltage from the core to the binding posts. There are only 4 components to this assembly: the handle, the control shaft itself, the contact arm, and square holed washer. The contact arm runs along the core. Its position along the core determines how much voltage reaches the binding posts. If the contact arm is not making contact with the core, there will be no AC running to the binding posts. Check the contact arm's position and contact tension with the core. This is my prime suspect.
If the contact arm is fine, then there must be some break in a wire from the core or ground. In such a case, would strongly recommend that you either have a professional repair the 1033 or throw out the transformer before you attempt to replace the core wires. You would be getting into areas meant for experienced technicians and risk electrocution.
@@cee1bee1 The simplest repair of the rectifier is to buy a new rectifier disc, remove the fast nut, take off the old disc, put on the new one, and reattach the fast nut. The videos give details of the stud diodes and thermal breakers.
@@peterfenzel4742 Thanks for a terrific and very detailed response. I'm with you on the potential issues you identified. This morning I removed all the existing soldered connections as well as the old rectifier disc. I cleaned everything including the disc and lubricated with dielectric grease. Re-soldered all the wires and low behold, it works perfectly now. I was actually getting 22.6 volts before from the U-A connection (which I know was wrong) and now it reads 16.2 on the meter. All the other voltages are now correct as well. So other than a few cents worth of grease, solder and electricity I'm in the pink. Thanks again for a super response, excellent video and for sharing your love of fixing old stuff instead of tossing into the land fills. Stay safe, stay healthy and I look forward to you next videos. So long from your neighbour to the north.
@@cee1bee1 Great, Claudio! Well done!
Hi Peter--do you think this diode will work--on eBay---REPAIR STATION 16 amp diode for Lionel KW Transformer w/ INSTRUCTIONS 16 amp
Hello Robert! Thank you for the question. I cannot see any link to the 16 amp diode you referenced. The Repair Station 16 amp diode i mentioned in earlier comments is the one I use for my 1033's and KW's.
@@peterfenzel4742 Thank you
Hi Peter, what did you use to clean up the transformers face? Yours came out very clean mine was stored poorly but I cant seem to get it looking like yours without scratching it up. Also what did you use to clean the pins, did you just do the rust trick like with the screws?
Joe Bonneau Hi Joe! I clean the case of the transformer with baking soda and vinegar scrubbed with an old toothbrush. Cold water rinses off the baking soda thoroughly. Once dry, I give the case a light hit with Pledge and a tissue
Where did you get the rectifier diode??Thanks
Zach You can get them easily and cheaply on EBay
Could you tell me what diode and breaker you use for this repair?
The diode was a 16 amp diode I purchased from Repair Station on EBAY. The circuit breaker is a Bussmann UCB -6 .
Hello, do you repair Lionel 1033 transformers. I can UPS to you. Let me know. Thanks
No Dale. I do this for the love of it. I can refer you to some train repair shops if you'd like.
Peter Fenzel
Ok, thanks for the response. I was able to piece the reverse/whistle handle mechanism and spring back together in time for my granddaughters to come and play with the train in time for Christmas. It was tricky getting the retaining nut to stay on the shaft under the fiber board but I was able to slide a small piece of wood to keep it from falling off without binding the movement.
@@dalecollisson3293 Isn't it satisfying, Dale, to take something old that once was fine, and to restore it to good working order? I am sure your granddaughters loved playing with the train almost as much as you did!