At 10:08 you say 5 seconds. At 12:09 you say 6 seconds. Now I can spare 5 seconds to measure, but 6 is asking too much and is way beyond the point of being reasonable. So rats nest it is!
The kind of thing that keeps me coming back and rewatching your episodes is your simple explanations. You talk down on bad modders, but not on people who mod their own stuff. I've junked plenty of my own stuff trying to mod it, but I wouldn't dream of trying to sell it to someone else. You keep doing you man!
closest i could find www.sparkfun.com/products/10647 www.jameco.com/z/28RC10-10VP-10-Conductor-Multicolor-Flat-Ribbon-Cable-28AWG-10-Feet_639672.html www.newark.com/3m/3811-10/unshielded-flat-cable-10-conductor/dp/96H9306 note that the last one is 100ft of cable, hence the price difference
Yo Lord Voultar awesome video !! It would be fun you would make a guide for beginner to modding, ex : tools, what kind of ribbon wire and cuter you need, how to solder and stuff. I'm looking forward to mod my snes mini with one of your circuit ! :D
Hey Lord Voultar, or anybody who can answer this question. What the point of using CYV on those other pins? I thought CYV would only be used for Sync ? I guess Composite would allow you to keep a composite signal, but what about Chroma and Luma ?
I have the ripple effect on mine, retrofixes did the mod, but I have 2 multiouts on mine, one snes type and one wii type, I keep on telling him about the problem, but it seems like he can't fix it, my audio seems to drop out as well
Hey thanks for the awesome video, been doing this mods for a little while and glad to see proper management goes a long way, also never knew people were using auto switching regulators might have to start looking out for this.
Superb video Voultar!!! For a future video. I would love to see a full proper installation of a Xeno mod with a clean non invasive switch and HDMI through the DVI port using something like the Pluto IIx 3d printed piece to make a very clean and good looking GameCube mod.
How big of a difference does using pre-tinned wires make? It seems notably more legit but I don’t know the full extent of the practical benefits to properly tinned wires
Switching regulators are more efficient. They can provide more current and/or generate less heat than linear regs. So, a lot of people get warm fuzzies knowing the regulator is running cooler and can provide more power to all the additional stuff they add while modding (power LEDs, the RGB electronics, etc.) There are two problems, though: First, linear regs can actually be quite efficient if the delta between input voltage and output voltage is minimal (e.g., using a 7V wall PSU instead of a 9-12V PSU), and the current required is low. That's not so much the case with consoles that use a couple hundred mA @ 5V with a 10V PSU, but it is something you should know before automatically going to a switching reg. Second, switching regs are inherently noisy. They're literally turning on the full input voltage intermittently and counting on impedance between the input and output of the regulator circuit to convert that choppy off/on/off/on into a smooth(er) DC voltage somewhere between 0V and V-in (e.g., 10V). The more filtering you add, the smoother the output gets, but also takes more space, costs more due to all the parts, decreases the transient performance (how quickly it can react to load changes), and makes it more complex and thus difficult to ensure stability. Alternatively, you can use a switching pre-regulator. This just minimizes the delta between PSU input (10V) and the desired regulated voltage (5V) by using noisy (but efficient!) switching regulation as a first stage, then using quiet (but inefficient) linear regulation in a second stage. Switching from 10V to 6.5V, for example, then linear from 6.5V to 5V. Best of both worlds. If the NES had separated all its analog circuitry, another useful approach would be to run the majority of the digital circuitry with a switching reg (since it doesn't need to be particularly clean power -- just clean _enough_), and then run the critical analog stuff with a linear reg. Since the load on the linear reg is much lighter then, it generates less heat. But alas, since the audio is in the CPU, and the analog video is in the PPU (or it's all on the NES RGB board in this case, which also -- IIRC -- only has a single power rail), they can't be split into digital and analog sections. It's all mixed together.
My Game Gear that got Mcwill modded (VGA) also has the exact same noise issue. Then after about half an hour, it gets really bad that it becomes unplayable.
Man, I wish that I had had ribbon cable when I did my front-loader NESRGB... Is that rosin flux I see? What prompts the choice on a given job between rosin and no-clean?
I'm getting into soldering and modding consoles and I watch your streams and videos to help see good technique so I can put out good mods and not feel sleazy like these bad mod sellers must.
You the man you make it look easy! Man can't see why people use so much wire and nest. Any way to use the 7805 on an og famicom? I'm modding one now and you have to remove the whole rf where it sat
pls tell me i am wrong here but it looks like you put C into Y, and Y into C. i'm wanting to do the 7 ribbon wire you do here so i want to make sure i'm getting this right.
I do a bit of automotive wiring for my dad and I wonder how who ever did this sleeps at night. I always feel that I need to be proud of what I did and would not mind showing it to others.
Hi Voultar, I was wondering if in your next video you could show us how to install the super cic board into a snes mini? There is very little documentation regarding it and a proper install video would help more modders learn how to do it. Thanks.
Good day Sir. Is it any way to reverse the stereo mod on the av Famicom? The Famicom is rgb modded, stereo mod and zapper modded. But the stereo mod kills the drum and bass sound =)
Oddly enough just replaced a 7805 with a switched regulator in my ZX Spectrum as surely it'd be more efficient, now seeing this I'm worrying I might not have done the right thing?
also perhaps considering doing a full equipment run down for well, everything. Where to get small electronics like capacitors and resistors, where to buy wire, good soldering iron/suckers, good solder, etc. Just a quick supply rundown of what you should have before getting into this stuff. I think that would be perfect.
I will vouch for the "EasySBC" 5V switcher drop-in 7805 replacements. I've been putting them in a bunch of my consoles, and they've performed very well. I haven't put them on the scope, but I'm extremely sensitive to this kind of interference and I do not notice anything like that on my systems.
I use the more expensive Traco Power replacements myself older computers, never had an issue with one failing or causing other problems in my systems though I've never done it on a SNES before. Older 7805s fail taking a lot of nice ICs with them when they go, replacing 7805 with a fresh one would be a minimum for maintenance for a system. Can't actually see it as a bad thing for the longevity if the system to remove all excess heat from the system by going with a switching regulator.
These are great vids. Just discovered your channel a short while ago. You said banned from Canada but i wonder what's up with that? They don't want you modding game consoles there? :)
At first I avoided this because I have an AV Famicom RGB modded. I haven't noticed any image issues. But good to know. I still have a Duo-R I need to send you sometime. You can guess who I bought it from years ago. I haven't played my Genesis until I fix my cables. I plan on making that my first project into all this.
I could be thinking of the N64RGB board, but I seem to recall Tim including the exact wire you used there. Although I bought direct in Oz. Either that or I watched a video back then and bought the wire for myself. 99% sure the multi wire came with the N64 board though. I don't think I ever got around to installing it. The N64 is one of my least favourite consoles of all time. It is only the Ganbare! Goemon games that I love. I loved Zelda in 1998, before it was turned into THE most horribly overated game of all time. Even surpassing FFVII.
Snobbery aside i really like keeping up a standard, i would route wires like a rats' because it still worked until I started wiring up race quadcopters. As you can imagine, you dont want 50+ wires flapping in the wind at 60mph with 4 props chopping nearby. Its what taught me lead discipline.
At 10:08 you say 5 seconds. At 12:09 you say 6 seconds. Now I can spare 5 seconds to measure, but 6 is asking too much and is way beyond the point of being reasonable. So rats nest it is!
But if you measure and cut the wire, you have extra for a little Snack.
It's there sorts of blatant lies which completely turn me off from your body! Which is it Voultar? 5 seconds or 6 seconds!!!!
5 seconds for normal conductors... 6 seconds for flippin' conductors
That initial wiring.. do these guys just assume you are never gonna open it up some day?
Yup, lots of little unshielded wires make great antennas for RF interference. Great advice and video.
You fixed my AV famicom that I terribly modded. Thanks again! Too bad you didn't have a show back then; at least I had no hot glue, lol.
@Inareth "You don't need to connect that ground pin to ground"
whaaaaaaaaaat??!?!?!
The kind of thing that keeps me coming back and rewatching your episodes is your simple explanations. You talk down on bad modders, but not on people who mod their own stuff. I've junked plenty of my own stuff trying to mod it, but I wouldn't dream of trying to sell it to someone else. You keep doing you man!
How the hell you get banned from Canada
Denouncing Tim Hortons as your preferred place of worship.
You tell them you refuse to speak French! 😆
Watching you work is akin to watching fine art being made. Thanks for making these videos!
My body was ready for this video! Thanks Voultar.
Canada can not contain the AWESOMENESS that is Voultar!
“It’s gunna look good and it’s goin to be sexual”. Proceeds to make it look good and sexual.
You need to make up inspection stickers like you see in factory electronics,but it says,"THIS SYSTEM WAS UNFUCKED BY VOULTAR"
These videos are therapeutic as hell
"And it's gonna be Sexxxual." lol
Lord Voultar, what kind of ribbon cable do you use and where can i acquire some of it?
Sauce I also would like to know this
I need that gorgeous ribbon too.
closest i could find
www.sparkfun.com/products/10647
www.jameco.com/z/28RC10-10VP-10-Conductor-Multicolor-Flat-Ribbon-Cable-28AWG-10-Feet_639672.html
www.newark.com/3m/3811-10/unshielded-flat-cable-10-conductor/dp/96H9306
note that the last one is 100ft of cable, hence the price difference
I'd like to know where to source the ribbon cable goodz also! And that no clean flux too!
This one looks pretty decent?
ie.farnell.com/pro-power/r2651dtsy10ac85/ribbon-cable-10-core-28awg-30/dp/2628345
What's the name of that desoldering tool you use (i.e. 5:45)
More than likely it's a Hakko 808.
Yo Lord Voultar awesome video !! It would be fun you would make a guide for beginner to modding, ex : tools, what kind of ribbon wire and cuter you need, how to solder and stuff. I'm looking forward to mod my snes mini with one of your circuit ! :D
Hey Lord Voultar, or anybody who can answer this question.
What the point of using CYV on those other pins? I thought CYV would only be used for Sync ?
I guess Composite would allow you to keep a composite signal, but what about Chroma and Luma ?
Oncle Owen S-Video uses Y and C signals.
I am so confused underneath the board where the rgb is sodered I have no clue where to as bottom is different
I have the ripple effect on mine, retrofixes did the mod, but I have 2 multiouts on mine, one snes type and one wii type, I keep on telling him about the problem, but it seems like he can't fix it, my audio seems to drop out as well
What if you have a US top loader. The rgb pins are not in the same orientation as the japan av one.
Hey thanks for the awesome video, been doing this mods for a little while and glad to see proper management goes a long way, also never knew people were using auto switching regulators might have to start looking out for this.
Is that ribbon conductor wire 22 gauge ?
Hi Voultar, big fan of your videos and work. I'm curious of the red cable on min 2:35 and does it apply to the NES 101 Top Loader?
Superb video Voultar!!!
For a future video. I would love to see a full proper installation of a Xeno mod with a clean non invasive switch and HDMI through the DVI port using something like the Pluto IIx 3d printed piece to make a very clean and good looking GameCube mod.
Vanessa Palmer why DVI port? Its only used on computer monitors. HDMI would be better as it also includes audio.
How big of a difference does using pre-tinned wires make? It seems notably more legit but I don’t know the full extent of the practical benefits to properly tinned wires
video unavailable?
What would motivate the replacement of the LM7805 with a switching regulator to begin with?
Switching regulators are more efficient. They can provide more current and/or generate less heat than linear regs. So, a lot of people get warm fuzzies knowing the regulator is running cooler and can provide more power to all the additional stuff they add while modding (power LEDs, the RGB electronics, etc.)
There are two problems, though:
First, linear regs can actually be quite efficient if the delta between input voltage and output voltage is minimal (e.g., using a 7V wall PSU instead of a 9-12V PSU), and the current required is low. That's not so much the case with consoles that use a couple hundred mA @ 5V with a 10V PSU, but it is something you should know before automatically going to a switching reg.
Second, switching regs are inherently noisy. They're literally turning on the full input voltage intermittently and counting on impedance between the input and output of the regulator circuit to convert that choppy off/on/off/on into a smooth(er) DC voltage somewhere between 0V and V-in (e.g., 10V). The more filtering you add, the smoother the output gets, but also takes more space, costs more due to all the parts, decreases the transient performance (how quickly it can react to load changes), and makes it more complex and thus difficult to ensure stability.
Alternatively, you can use a switching pre-regulator. This just minimizes the delta between PSU input (10V) and the desired regulated voltage (5V) by using noisy (but efficient!) switching regulation as a first stage, then using quiet (but inefficient) linear regulation in a second stage. Switching from 10V to 6.5V, for example, then linear from 6.5V to 5V. Best of both worlds.
If the NES had separated all its analog circuitry, another useful approach would be to run the majority of the digital circuitry with a switching reg (since it doesn't need to be particularly clean power -- just clean _enough_), and then run the critical analog stuff with a linear reg. Since the load on the linear reg is much lighter then, it generates less heat. But alas, since the audio is in the CPU, and the analog video is in the PPU (or it's all on the NES RGB board in this case, which also -- IIRC -- only has a single power rail), they can't be split into digital and analog sections. It's all mixed together.
It would be good to see a before and after capture of the video to compare a bodge to a nicely done repair 👍
My Game Gear that got Mcwill modded (VGA) also has the exact same noise issue. Then after about half an hour, it gets really bad that it becomes unplayable.
What type of ribbon cable are you using? I have tried a couple different kinds but they never seem to be any good honestly.
Man, I wish that I had had ribbon cable when I did my front-loader NESRGB...
Is that rosin flux I see? What prompts the choice on a given job between rosin and no-clean?
That's some good 'ole No-Clean with a low solid content.
Figure it out!
I'm getting into soldering and modding consoles and I watch your streams and videos to help see good technique so I can put out good mods and not feel sleazy like these bad mod sellers must.
Why they did it let you in to Canada??
You the man you make it look easy! Man can't see why people use so much wire and nest. Any way to use the 7805 on an og famicom? I'm modding one now and you have to remove the whole rf where it sat
Why not clean up the flux from the previous regulator swap?
where can i get a hold of the nesrgb mod pcb
At least it isn't covered in hot glue or, God forbid, epoxy. I can't imagine what they were thinking with that rat's nest of wiring though.
do u happen to have a link to the wire you use?
pls tell me i am wrong here but it looks like you put C into Y, and Y into C. i'm wanting to do the 7 ribbon wire you do here so i want to make sure i'm getting this right.
why would someone want a switching one in the first place? I have always used the 7805 when replacing a burnt out regulator.
I do a bit of automotive wiring for my dad and I wonder how who ever did this sleeps at night.
I always feel that I need to be proud of what I did and would not mind showing it to others.
Hi Voultar, I was wondering if in your next video you could show us how to install the super cic board into a snes mini? There is very little documentation regarding it and a proper install video would help more modders learn how to do it. Thanks.
I thought I knew all the NES games until I watched your other video on famicom translations, thanks for Radia Senki brotha :D I'm lovin' it
are your snes rgb boards ever going to be in stock????? :(
The only thing I learn about soldering that I never forget is that everyone is terrible at soldering.
Good day Sir. Is it any way to reverse the stereo mod on the av Famicom? The Famicom is rgb modded, stereo mod and zapper modded. But the stereo mod kills the drum and bass sound =)
Little known fact: AV Famicom wasn't originally packaged with an AC adapter. I'm assuming he is using one that was sold separately?
Why would anyone take out the linear regulator?
Oddly enough just replaced a 7805 with a switched regulator in my ZX Spectrum as surely it'd be more efficient, now seeing this I'm worrying I might not have done the right thing?
So uhm... After googling around without luck... What's the introtune oh Master Voultar?
Love your videos Voultar! Can you give us an update when you'll have the snes mini RGB bypass kit available. Thanks!
I would love for you to rip apart my GameCube HDMI mod from years ago lol. It was my first soldering project and it certainly shows lol.
Another great video. And as a bonus, no GameCubes were bricked as a result of this video.
voultar....what type of solder do you use and recommend?
but what if armegeddon happens and you need all that extra wire lol . what an antenna.
hey voultar baby what's that solder sucker you're using, also will it cost me my dignity or will it be somewhat affordable
also perhaps considering doing a full equipment run down for well, everything. Where to get small electronics like capacitors and resistors, where to buy wire, good soldering iron/suckers, good solder, etc. Just a quick supply rundown of what you should have before getting into this stuff. I think that would be perfect.
I laughed at 3:19 over the wires so loud, people at work looked over.
On a future episode, I'd love to see tips and tricks for not pulling pads when desoldering. May God have mercy my soul.
iCach0 a good de soldering gun practice and the right temp heat
iCach0 I use 1 1/2 to 2 I've never pulled a pad use fresh solder first I also have the 300
thanks again!
iCach0 no problem
Figure it out!
Solid work, sir.
Who fitted the mod in the first place??
The crayola king.... aka dracon... I don't think he does console mods any more.
5:43 "Quack... Quack.... Quaaaaaaack"
But was the signal better after correcting this mod?
I'm sure it was...
Another one saved. Well done.
Great video and great work. Being from Canada, too bad to hear you were banned, and too bad for this NES that had to endure true suffering.
Basically if it looks like a bomb, try again?
Excellent video as usual!
I will vouch for the "EasySBC" 5V switcher drop-in 7805 replacements. I've been putting them in a bunch of my consoles, and they've performed very well. I haven't put them on the scope, but I'm extremely sensitive to this kind of interference and I do not notice anything like that on my systems.
I use the more expensive Traco Power replacements myself older computers, never had an issue with one failing or causing other problems in my systems though I've never done it on a SNES before. Older 7805s fail taking a lot of nice ICs with them when they go, replacing 7805 with a fresh one would be a minimum for maintenance for a system. Can't actually see it as a bad thing for the longevity if the system to remove all excess heat from the system by going with a switching regulator.
Just as i was watching cable routing i thought "thats sexy" and right then he said "sexual" i frikin' lost it!
the sexiest and finest work as usual
These are great vids. Just discovered your channel a short while ago. You said banned from Canada but i wonder what's up with that? They don't want you modding game consoles there? :)
~two months in the making!
i love it when u swear..makes me laugh everytime
At first I avoided this because I have an AV Famicom RGB modded. I haven't noticed any image issues. But good to know. I still have a Duo-R I need to send you sometime. You can guess who I bought it from years ago. I haven't played my Genesis until I fix my cables. I plan on making that my first project into all this.
What do you have to do to piss off the canadians so bad they won't let you in lo
Jesus. I may not be super great at soldering, but at least I can measure and cut a wire.
why are you banned from canada?
YAY
lord Voultar!
It's hard to do when you won't put a link to your ribbon cable. You want everyone to do the best job with ribbon cable?
It's ribbon cable. You can get it pretty much anywhere electronics bits are sold. Ebay, Amazon, Digikey, Mouser, your local electronics parts store...
Why has Canada banned you?
Therapeutic soldering.
That was like a giant antenna haha. I don't get the 7805. They cost 50 cents. Well idiocy I guess.
3do rgb mod would be cool to see
Skip to 5:45 for ducks.
That looks like the work of Ben Heck
At least no hot glue!
WOO, NEW VOULTAR, AWRIGHT
@0:50 nice bug... Look near top right corner of console lol
Ah a dewalt you know your tools
It would be funny to see you rework on a drakon modded console
Looks like candy 8:49
heheh swearing at 3:21
just wrap the wires in insulated aluminium foil
why are you permanently bending the wires unnecessarily..... stop it...
I could be thinking of the N64RGB board, but I seem to recall Tim including the exact wire you used there. Although I bought direct in Oz. Either that or I watched a video back then and bought the wire for myself. 99% sure the multi wire came with the N64 board though. I don't think I ever got around to installing it. The N64 is one of my least favourite consoles of all time. It is only the Ganbare! Goemon games that I love. I loved Zelda in 1998, before it was turned into THE most horribly overated game of all time. Even surpassing FFVII.
Snobbery aside i really like keeping up a standard, i would route wires like a rats' because it still worked until I started wiring up race quadcopters. As you can imagine, you dont want 50+ wires flapping in the wind at 60mph with 4 props chopping nearby. Its what taught me lead discipline.
i am not a modder (yet) but even i see those cables is to *bliping* long -.-
raaaaaaawr! :v r
im sure before and after image quality are the same. this is pointless video, only for showing "advantage" of voultar
Why didn't you power the RGB board? I'm learning.