The two grubscrews on the rear axle are for even weight distribution. Two opposite from another on the right wheel. Two opposite from another on the gear and the left wheel. Two per side. I like flashy colors (yellow, bright green, bright red) . As an older dude, I can follow them better on track.
@@CleaveTech Then you would have 5 screws in total. Uneven weight distribution on the axle again. My cars have 3 screws and I must offset them by 120 degrees so the axle is balanced. 5 screws means you must find a place for the gear screw to balance the axle. Can't do that by eyeballing. Good luck!
@@RackwitzG I meant that if RevoSlot thought that supplying 2 grub screws was for balancing then they would supply 2 grub screws for every thing that fitted to the axle (2 for the gear and 2 for each wheel making 6 in total for the back axle).
I don't know if your club rules allow this but I shimmed the rear axle blocks up 0.25mm which lowers the chassis and trued the front down until the guide was fully seated against the chassis. Others have tried silicone o-rings, others have milled the chassis or pans to allow the two to sit level with each other...me, I put a piece of duct tape the length and width of the chassis to act as damping. The deep guide is favourite but we've seen one or two guides snap as the rear of the car suddenly gives way and swings round, there isn't a great deal of guide rotation for a car with such a rigid setup. Saying this, they're brilliant fun and can be pushed deeper into corners than lighter plastic chassis cars.
Thanks for the advice. I did want to shim the pillow blocks but that is not allowed. My next video shows an idea I had about adding some damping 😉. Hopefully the guide will survive but I might get a spare as you are not the first person to mention that.
@@Fabio-ns4ql thanks. I think you are correct. They might be different colours. The rules I am racing to don’t allow swapping of parts from different RevoSlot models though.
I purchased a 1/64 angle winder chassis bit like yours what i did not like is the rear portion of the chassis weak points is left and right of the motor easy to bend there yours looks bit tougher made
Thank you. I did mention it in my video but I decided against adding tape as it is not allowed in the rules and it lifts the chassis slightly. I have no doubt that it would quieten the chassis if you were allowed to use tape 👍🏻
I love the Revoslots. My view would be not to get overly analytical or technical for when it comes to the chassis mechanics - unless that is you are experiencing an issue with the car 'bottoming out' or the wheels rubbing against the bodywork. This has not been my experience. As for the colour? I'd use a Tamiya primer (white or grey) followed by a matt acrylic (not gloss). My preferences are either a lemon yellow or a blood red from the Revell ranges albeit Humbrol matt acrylics are great too. Once done then you can let it 'gas out' and apply decals before a gloss clear coat to finish out. Advice: don't be in a hurry - especially if you are on a learning curve with all this.
@@CleaveTech - It helps to have an airbrush and to be able to thin the paint and 'knock it on' at 25-30 p.s.i. It's a great investment if you are planning to make a habit of it. There's plenty of excellent 'show how' videos here on UA-cam if you want to get into this a bit more. I find it a bit 'nerve racking' insofar as it's easy to make mistakes or imperfections and, of course, it is messy - a bit like racing slot cars really! However, perseverance will eventually pay off and you can then feel accomplished in what you have done.
@@MrDarrenp40 I do have an airbrush somewhere that I bought as a teenager. I will have to dig it out again sometime. At the moment I enjoy racing my cars and need to spend the limited time I have making them drive correctly and go faster. I hope one day to have more time so I can also consider painting them nicely 😂
@@CleaveTech I think a lot of us can understand exactly where you are coming from and, if you ask me, I share your priorities in terms of what you do with the time you are able to devote to hobbies :)
The concept of using individual pillow blocks to house the bearings is a poor one. Your front bearings seem to be very tight. It takes a great amount of fettling to align the bearings. Bearing quality is average and Id be looking to replace with ceramics if allowed. There are some other tricks you can do but it really depends on how the rules are written as to what you can do.
Hi Fabio. Thanks for the advice. Yes the front axle was very tight. I have a video coming out soon that shows how I fixed that. The rules don’t allow the bearings to be changed so I have to stick with the RevoSlot ones.
when you said that the yantas brought two (2) prisoners. I tell him that I put two on the tires, and on the crowns. (2) prisoners. wonder why. ? because that way I do the balancing. Yes indeed. I put the two (2) prisoners of the same size, because if I put one large and the other small, it is not balanced. hugs.
Very enjoyable, I have always been curious about these cars. Good info!
Thank you. 👍🏻
Double check the bearing alignment front and rear. On my Revoslot I realigned them and performance picked up.
Spot on Ken. They were not aligned very well. I sort the alignment in the next video 👍🏻 Thank you.
Fluorescent green !
I like fluorescent colours. 😉
The two grubscrews on the rear axle are for even weight distribution. Two opposite from another on the right wheel. Two opposite from another on the gear and the left wheel. Two per side.
I like flashy colors (yellow, bright green, bright red) . As an older dude, I can follow them better on track.
I thought that but then they would have supplied two grub screws for each wheel and the gear. It was only one wheel that had two grub screws.
I like bright colours too. I like my car to stand out.
@@CleaveTech Then you would have 5 screws in total. Uneven weight distribution on the axle again. My cars have 3 screws and I must offset them by 120 degrees so the axle is balanced. 5 screws means you must find a place for the gear screw to balance the axle. Can't do that by eyeballing. Good luck!
@@RackwitzG I meant that if RevoSlot thought that supplying 2 grub screws was for balancing then they would supply 2 grub screws for every thing that fitted to the axle (2 for the gear and 2 for each wheel making 6 in total for the back axle).
@@CleaveTech Oh, ok. I didn't realize that the gear has two threads too.
I don't know if your club rules allow this but I shimmed the rear axle blocks up 0.25mm which lowers the chassis and trued the front down until the guide was fully seated against the chassis.
Others have tried silicone o-rings, others have milled the chassis or pans to allow the two to sit level with each other...me, I put a piece of duct tape the length and width of the chassis to act as damping.
The deep guide is favourite but we've seen one or two guides snap as the rear of the car suddenly gives way and swings round, there isn't a great deal of guide rotation for a car with such a rigid setup.
Saying this, they're brilliant fun and can be pushed deeper into corners than lighter plastic chassis cars.
Thanks for the advice. I did want to shim the pillow blocks but that is not allowed. My next video shows an idea I had about adding some damping 😉.
Hopefully the guide will survive but I might get a spare as you are not the first person to mention that.
@@CleaveTech Check the Revo/BRM spare parts. The pillow blocks from different models have different heights. They may be interchangeable.
@@Fabio-ns4ql thanks. I think you are correct. They might be different colours. The rules I am racing to don’t allow swapping of parts from different RevoSlot models though.
Thank you for sharing. Nice car. Is the car 1/32?
I purchased a 1/64 angle winder chassis bit like yours what i did not like is the rear portion of the chassis weak points is left and right of the motor easy to bend there yours looks bit tougher made
There is a lot more room for a motor in a 1/32 chassis. The 1/64 chassis must be a bit tight!
@@CleaveTech I told seller about it he replied when the motor is soldered to pan it will be good
hydro dip it in skulls. Then some bright colored sponsor decals over it.
I want to try hydro dipping, it looks fun and the results can be amazing.
Put a full light kit in it.. yellow with carbon black zebra stripes.
Maybe if I was going to race it in the dark, a light kit might be necessary 😎. I am sure it will stand out in a bright colour though.
Small piece of Tape (I use Gorilla) under each Chassis float nut, helps quiet the Car down
Thank you. I did mention it in my video but I decided against adding tape as it is not allowed in the rules and it lifts the chassis slightly. I have no doubt that it would quieten the chassis if you were allowed to use tape 👍🏻
I love the Revoslots. My view would be not to get overly analytical or technical for when it comes to the chassis mechanics - unless that is you are experiencing an issue with the car 'bottoming out' or the wheels rubbing against the bodywork. This has not been my experience. As for the colour? I'd use a Tamiya primer (white or grey) followed by a matt acrylic (not gloss). My preferences are either a lemon yellow or a blood red from the Revell ranges albeit Humbrol matt acrylics are great too. Once done then you can let it 'gas out' and apply decals before a gloss clear coat to finish out. Advice: don't be in a hurry - especially if you are on a learning curve with all this.
Thank you Darren. Your advice on painting hard bodies is much appreciated.
@@CleaveTech - It helps to have an airbrush and to be able to thin the paint and 'knock it on' at 25-30 p.s.i. It's a great investment if you are planning to make a habit of it. There's plenty of excellent 'show how' videos here on UA-cam if you want to get into this a bit more. I find it a bit 'nerve racking' insofar as it's easy to make mistakes or imperfections and, of course, it is messy - a bit like racing slot cars really! However, perseverance will eventually pay off and you can then feel accomplished in what you have done.
@@MrDarrenp40 I do have an airbrush somewhere that I bought as a teenager. I will have to dig it out again sometime. At the moment I enjoy racing my cars and need to spend the limited time I have making them drive correctly and go faster. I hope one day to have more time so I can also consider painting them nicely 😂
@@MrDarrenp40 Thank you for the good tips though 👍🏻
@@CleaveTech I think a lot of us can understand exactly where you are coming from and, if you ask me, I share your priorities in terms of what you do with the time you are able to devote to hobbies :)
Purple & orange
The new BSV Tyre Truer is purple and orange. Not sure I want my Porsche in those colours though 😜
@@CleaveTech OK...turquoise.
@@modelracecar , my girlfriend would love it to be turquoise 😁
Pink
You might be onto something there 👍🏻
The concept of using individual pillow blocks to house the bearings is a poor one. Your front bearings seem to be very tight. It takes a great amount of fettling to align the bearings. Bearing quality is average and Id be looking to replace with ceramics if allowed. There are some other tricks you can do but it really depends on how the rules are written as to what you can do.
Hi Fabio. Thanks for the advice. Yes the front axle was very tight. I have a video coming out soon that shows how I fixed that. The rules don’t allow the bearings to be changed so I have to stick with the RevoSlot ones.
Send it to me James. I'll paint it for you.
Thank you for the kind offer Ian. I might do that in the future but it needs a coat of paint before tomorrow evening so that it is legal to race.
when you said that the yantas brought two (2) prisoners. I tell him that I put two on the tires, and on the crowns. (2) prisoners. wonder why. ? because that way I do the balancing. Yes indeed. I put the two (2) prisoners of the same size, because if I put one large and the other small, it is not balanced. hugs.
I think I understand. You are talking about using 2 grub screws on each wheel and the gear to help with the balance 👍🏻