How to Do That Cool 3D Printing Timelapse Effect // Hacking the Timelapse
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- My personal process for taking great 3D printing timelapse videos may be a bit unorthodox, but it works great and definitely doesn't involve burning your hands.
Timelapse Rig STL Files : than.gs/m/916065
Shopping List :
Ender 3 3D Printer :
amzn.to/33mhVHo (amazon)
bit.ly/Creality... (gearbest)
MatterHackers PLA Filament : bit.ly/Matterha...
Fillamentum Flexible Filament : bit.ly/FlexFill
LED Strip : amzn.to/2UfuOPx
Camera Remote Shutter : amzn.to/2TUIHn3
Camera used is a Canon 77D : amzn.to/2x4M56c
My Favorite Lens : amzn.to/2UbOtzF
That intro was AMAZING!! Definitely inspired to figure out a printing time lapse system that works for us. HACK THE SYSTEM!!!!
Agreed, I loved that intro.
EvanAndkatelyn you guys also have the most fun intros!!!
Hi
HI EVAN AND KATELYN
woah what are you doing here?
"If i run the defrag and the disk cleanup at the same time..."
When I worked at Staples years ago we would tell people to do a defrag and a scan disk and call back when that was done. We knew we would be gone by then and be able to pass it on to the next person. It was great :)
danging gosh hecking darn you commented before me
E=mc^2?
Wich Programm have you used during this scene? (1:15)
1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 11 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 111 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 1 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 11 1111 1111 1111
The Cheap 3D Printer and ususally it would do nothing.... 😂
This might be the best spoof intro I have ever seen!
Printing inside the Box is Thinking Outside the box :) Wow! Awesome.
Haha thanks
Hi, please, what are the settings that you use for your jgaurora a5? I would find them myself, but I'm finding them already for 2 months and still can't get a good result, because it's my first printer (btw thank you for your video about it, it's a great machine and I bought it mainly because of your review) and I'm not sure if those problems are there because the filament I use (it's the cheapest one I could find). So if you could tell me that, it would be really useful for me. Thanks. Oh, and I almost forgot! That was probably the most unexpected way I could think about! XD Where you take these ideas...
@@vit.budina I use the exact same settings as my cr-10, I bet it's way easier to find profiles for that!
Thank you very much, do you have any verifyed source? Sorry for asking this, I'm not that much experienced user. Thank you. :)
@@vit.budina not for cura, sorry. With Simplify3D you can just run the setup assistant and select the cr-10 as your printer
Great tutorial very funny! I'm also using my DSLR for my timelapses. Snaps are triggered using a limit switch wired up to a remote trigger that is place in front of the bed.
That intro was awesome and hilarious!
5:46
You caught me off guard there lmao
Probably one of my favorite edits ever
Perfect first try! :)
Lmfao I laugh a good 30 seconds replaying It
I might go about it in a different way but man I really appreciate the explanation on how the print seems to rise out of thin air. I thought for sure there was some kind of editing magic to it- nope! You literally just program the printer to rise a certain amount each layer and snap a photo. Crazy! Thanks for sharing.
That was the best intro on youtube!
Not going to lie - the intro was AWESOME! Thanks for sharing.
Where can I get those spicy goggles?
Harbor Freight Tools
Enrique Montes thanks
0:55 - 1:25
*How my mom thinks I fix the wifi*
Oh, and would love to see some more about that crazy spiral infill
I've been trying to figure this out for months now. Thank you for the assistance. Now I just need a remote for my time lapse camera and I'm all set! Great intro BTW!
Hey Devon, I wanted to let you know I gave a shout out to you in my video that is coming out today! This video in particular was the inspiration I needed to change my time-lapse style for better. I didn't ran out of time to explain how I did that was similar to your creation... but I plan on addressing that in the near future. You do good work, I am glad I found your channel.
More pegboard stuff???
Edit: If someone is looking for more pegboard models, Devin's myminifactory page has a lot of desings to print or to get inspiration from.
With a room filled with all those foamboards, plastic and printers running constantly, how do you manage your firesafety?
Just curious!
I've got several smoke detectors and cameras, but I do feel the need to increase my safety measures!
I have the same feeling, especially when I leave mine running overnight. I do have a smoke detector above it, stay at home when its on and have a fire extinguisher next to it. But I don't really know what else to do except to build basically a fireproof safe with a printer in... which seems economically unfeasable.
I store all my flammable liquids and oil soaked rags next to my 3D printers... I'd like to rebuild my house one day. :) That, and I'm not paranoid about printer fires that are probably the lowest chance of fire I have in my house when there are dozens of devices that are charging, cooking in the kitchen, clothes drier, flaming rats, etc.
@@Mark_5150 still.. Its something that everyone always thinks about as "thatll never happen to ME".
I didn't say it can't, just that I don't care if it does. I have 2 printers running right now while no one is home, there are other things to worry about than having to rebuild my house.
3D printer fires are such a small percentage of house fires, I can't even find statistics on them. I think there are better odds of someone breaking into my house today, sitting on my couch while smoking a cigarette, taking a nap and catching the couch on fire than my printers catching fire.
I am going to have to try this :) It looks like you can use the post-processing scripts in Cura call "insert at layer change" to insert GCODE the same way you talk about in this video (i have not tried this yet).
Extremely valuable information. Thank you. Never even considered a hardware solution. Just got my own modified version up and running and it works so well. Also, fantastic intro. The modulated scream when you jack into your ear is hauntingly beautiful
Impressive you
Did it nicely
It looks like a neat decorative flower vase
I just remembered vase exploration and think you should do more with those color nylon filaments
Just got the MatterHackers Pulse XE which should make printing with Nylon much easier, so I probably will!
For those interested in a CURA bit of code that kinda works for me and my setting (CR10-S4 with stock settings and CURA 3.5.1 Stock CR10s4 profile). I used relative positioning of the extruder in order to force the retraction of the filament as the normal G10 and G11 commands were not doing anything... Also if anyone has suggestions to improve this code, I am all eyes as I have the problem that it starts extruding during the travel back to the print and leaves a small filament artefact that grows with the print...
@ Devin would you mind sharing two sets of gcodes where one has the normal gcode and the other has the S3D post processed gcode. It would help a great deal to compare and find a solution for Cura. Thanks!
Use Extensions > Post processing > Modify G-Code > Add script > search and replace (and replace the G1 coordinates with your own values)
Replace this text
;LAYER:
By this text
G91 ;RelativePositioning
G1 F3000 E-5 ;ExtruderGoesBackward5mm
M221 S0 ;FlowRate0percent
G90 ;AbsolutePositioning
G1 F6000 X290 Y308 ;QuickMove
G1 F1000 X300 ;PrecisionMove
G4 P500 ;Dwell
G1 F6000 X290 Y308 ;QuickMoveAway
G91 ;RelativePositioning
G1 F3000 E5 ;ExtruderGoesForward5mm
G90 ;AbsolutePositioning
M221 S100 ;FlowRate100percent
;LAYER:
hey man, i would like to make the same thing for cura, but this is the first time i started doing something with G-codes x.x to be honest i dont even know how to put your g code in cura x.x
Tried these settings in cura, unfortunately I m getting stringing issue after the extruder returns to the print after pressing the button, I m using a ender 3 pro. It would be great if you can asist, Thanks.
Awesome Devin. Thanks for the tutorial. One question - I am curious to know that on an average how much more time does it take for a print to complete if we are to make make such a timelapse?
My estimate would be about 5-10 extra seconds per layer, getting shorter the higher the print gets
I've been wanting to know how to film this, thanks to you I'm going to try this for my next 3D printing video !
I appreciate the sound design in the intro heh
it's so simple and ingenious idea at the same time!) I think it can be improved. You can shoot all this on the phone, and the phones have such a function as shooting when you press the headset volume button, and so you can take a non-working headset and parallel to the volume button to solder the limit switch. And the switch itself is mounted on the frame of the printer by the principle of the limit switch on the X axis.
I always appreciate mechanical solutions, this is an awesome solution!
love your 'analog' approach. I've been wanting to do time lapses for a long time, but got hold back by the idea of diving into octoprint. this seems like a very cool alternative. eventhough I don't have a camera like yours lying around. not a priority, but still would love to do it sometime.
Love the way the comments are. Didn't see any negative comments.
Very clever trick with the shutter button. Also you are actually hilarious. Love those goggles.
The timelapse intro is one thing, but having that seamlessly cut into the shot of you picking the vase off the bed is another level of cool
Just stopped the timelapse, then started recording video and picked the piece up. Then just stitched these two together. Done :)
A selfie stick for your 3D printer
Dude, I loved this - and your intro had me laughing out loud! Definitely going to try implementing something like this for my future videos.
Hey! This is for anyone capable of some kind of input, I've tried and succeeded at Hacking the Timelapse!!! super proud btw. Yet, I AM having some trouble with retraction settings, it is not a stringing problem, but the thing is (using CURA) I introduce G-Codes at Layer Change (and make the machine do the whole movement and pressing of the camera shooter) and have the "retract at layer change" toggled. What happens is it finishes the layer, retracts (7mm) then goes through the G1 codes and so, takes the photo, and THEN goes the other way in retraction (Prime). This makes a little amount of filament out the nozzle that then gets stuck in the print, making the process sloppy and meaning if I want a clean Timelapse I should be around the printer to remove this tiny pieces of filament. ANY HELP IS MORE THAN WELCOMED. Cheers, and good printing!
Yay the intro was really good! You went all out which made it non-cringey... And it was hilarious! :D
If you use cura there is a better way now:
Extensions -> post processing -> Modify g-code-> add a script -> timelapse
Pause: your shutter speed in miliseconds + about 100ms or more for shutter delay
X: your x-value
Y: your y-value
speed: _1000mms_ should do although it doesn't nearly reach those speeds on my Ender 3. Change it as you like :)
to avoid stringing:
Preferences -> Settings -> Travel -> enable _retract at layer change_ -> enable _custom_ on side panel -> check _retract at layer change_
Nicely done Devin. I subscribed for quite a while to your Channel and many other 3d print related channels and it is so nice to see you guys constantly improving and evolving, before, your videos had so much more serious mood, almost like One is giving a college presentation but now its so well done, entertaining while keeping informative and clear, not to metion you really honored the "open source" philosophy by sharing your way of doing the timelapse so that really inspires me to do something similar here in Brazil with my little 3d printing company. Keep up buddy!
Thanks for following the journey! I have trouble watching back some of my older videos haha
Behind the scenes video is great!
I just installed Cura 4.2. That includes a couple of new scripts/events. One is Time Lapse, which I think needs you to have an IR transmitter connected to your mainboard. The other is having a script triggered at the end of a layer, so you can just use something like the script shown here.
That was a completely unexpected intro from your channel 😂. Literally laughed out loud. Was worth every minute of your time!
You had the right idea building the "black box," but you need to black out more objects: like the Ender display in the last video clip. If you could remove all distractions, only the object of interest would remain in the timelapse.
Not a bad idea!
Imma do it! I shall call upon my print minions and hack the planet!
the vr coral reef looks like its growing
hI ALL, Has anyone figured out the code for Cura to do this same effect?
This can also be done using a phone and headphones, when the volume button on the headphone is pressed the phone takes a photo.
Won't that immediately fill up your storage
It takes one picture every layer. A printer with a hight of 200 mm and a layer hight of 0.2 mm that's 1000 layers or 1000 pictures . Most phones should be able to store 1000 pictures
@@proginx hmm yeah but it would still fill up fairly quickly if we assume the resolution is for a 1080p video but if it's attached to an external hard drive then yeah it's possible
Get a bigger SD card?
You phone can't hold 1000 pictures? Woah
Watching many of your videos, YOU ARE SO F CREATIVE!!! IM SO jealous!!!!
I giggled like an idiot watching that intro. I'd call it a success )
Amazing tutorial - thanks for that.
What is the settings for cura
That skit you made was so funny I can’t even right now! It’s just odd! Hahahaha!
How much print time does it add to use this technique? Have you tried printing the same model with and without timelapse to see?
I like the "behind the scenes" note in the mirror 1:56
I just found out your Instagram and I saw that awesome timelapse you posted today then you said you will make a vid of how you do that astonish effect and then I was straight to your channel to wait for this!! It's a really clever technique, very interesting! You got one more sub!!
btw, that intro was funny as hell!!
"if I run the defrag-" as a cs major I'm already dying
what's camera u used with otolapse?
Canon T2i
@@make.anythingwhy don't use octoprint and octolapse?
try this for cura
;LAYER:
;START of TakePhoto routine
G91 ;Use relative positioning mode
G1 E-10 F1800 ;Retract 10mm of filament
G1 Z2 F2000 ;Move Z up 2mm
G90 ;Use absolute positioning mode
G1 F13000 X203 Y190 ;Quick move to rear right
G1 F1000 X204 Y190 ;Poke
G4 P700 ;Pause for 0.7 seconds
G0 F9000 X115 Y115 ;go in middle
G91 ;Use relative positioning mode
G1 Z-2 F2000 ;Return Z to current layer
G90 ; Go back to absolute position mode for all axes
The intro was pretty cool, I had a big laugh. More stuff like that men ;)
Incredible technique!
This is a great solution! I think I am going to do something similar, I am going to buy another cheap and tiny remote control for my camera and instead of the button on the remote I am going to solder a "limit switch" to it, which is attached to the printer.
That would be awesome. Definitely a more finessed solution ;)
Great video. The simple hacks are the best. Really cool stuff, keep it up!
I saved it into my playlist called, HACKS
I already see people (men, obviously) screaming "me first!" when the odometer reaches 300,000 miles, err, 300k subscribers.
I’d love to see this method synced up with a motion control camera.
dude awesome personality and channel!! how come I never see your videos in my youtube feed?!?!
That intro with clamp and cable, mc^3, the welder, the knob spinning ;D ;D that was hilarious !! awesome!
hahaha, brilliant intro Devin! Sorry for calling you out on Insta assuming you were using Octolapse, this makes a lot of sense now, and how "old skool" using a physical squidgy finger to press an actual button! Very very clever though, well thought out! If you had more access to the printer firmware you can replicate this electronically too - Marlin has a "camera trigger" command that essentially is the same idea where you trigger a GPIO pin which is connected to a shutter release. Your box setup has given me some ideas though, along with the LED strip... hush hush...!!! 🕵
And the Oscar goes to.. 😬 the intro is the top. PS: all of these time lapse video are so amazing for who is watching and not for who is printing. I hate all the plastic that goes and make retraction crazy for all the moves to reach the point for the photo for my tevo tornado, I’ll waiting when octolapse will be no more beta. Ps2: did you calculate how much time you lose with this amazing hack ?(in printing time)
I'm working on bringing octolapse out of beta, just put in a good 6 hrs today :) that being said, alternate methods like the one OP uses here are AWESOME to see. I'd like to see firmware or slicer timelapse support at some point too. Who knows what great methods will be discovered in the future?
That's a SPICY intro!
Really cool method! Thanks!
Leaving a like just for the hacker skit
0:00 Thank you for the ASMR
i remember marco reps talking about doing this time ago, tho he used a raspberry pi, a webcam, and some OpenCV code
Very cool! thanks for sharing!
wildrose hype!
Will you make behind the scene?
that is a very intresting, but rather simple solution, I might do this instead of the octopi method, just for the silly little finger
Super! Thanks for posting. 👍
Cura have a Time Laps scrip now :-D
How much extra time do you think it adds to your prints? Looks like it can take around 5 extra seconds per later, that's gotta add up lol
20 likes fo the intro, 80 more for all the work, creativity and explanation.
what was that song for the intro time-lapse???
Very spicy intro - awesome! and the timelapse is on a ghost chili level of spiciness, seem's i'm spiced out! P.S. Also wanted to thank you for making that detailed (Voronoi Anything) video i'm having a blast just having a small defect looks like z wobble but other non Voronoi prints are clean and i print Voronoi prints @ (20-40 mm/ps) i'll figure it out thank you.
I want those glasses
Cura has an improved method for this time-lapse function:
Go to Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code > Add new script > Time Lapse.
Then, you can modify the X and Y locations to suit your printer and the pause length.
I've tried and it works, hope this helps! :)
Thanks for the update, good to know!
I'm working on a system to use a Gopro remote and the Anycubic i3 Mega, Thanks for the inspiration!
I love the anycubic I3 mega
Hey zack ..did you manage to do that ..as i have two i3's and would like to have a crack at this ..🤘
Hi, I also have the I3 Mega and I am struggling to get rid of stringing on the time-lapse. The code that I am currently using is as follows:
TakePhoto
G90; Absolute
G10; Retract
G1 F9000 X205 Y215; Quick
G1 F1000 X215; Poke
G4 P500; Wait
G1 F9000 X205; Back
G11; Extrude
;Layer
The retraction doesn't appear to register in Cura. I've also tried a manual extrude and retract however the retraction distances seems to increase every layer. Any help is greatly appreciated.
0:55 those eyes :D
Cool process
With that method you can use a speed light to light only the model.
BWAHAHA! The intro tho! HACKERMAN!~!!!!!!
In CURA, use "extensions", "post-processing", "modify G-Code", "add script", and "insert at layer change" to add a script between each layer. Select "after" for "when to insert" so the image is taken when the layer is finished. (Tried and tested.)
What is the g-code?
@@chris1987notts1 whatever you need to take the image. Like going to press a switch at a certain position. G-Code is pretty simple for a few lines. You can find how to write commands online.
Could you write code that makes the x axis strike the limit switch every layer? Solder on two legs in parallel from the switch and have them on a quick disconnect that goes to two legs soldered onto the board on the remote trigger
Have you made any improvements on your print settings? I have Simplify3D and 2 Ender 3's, one is the pro. I just started to try my hand at time lapse and can't find anything with Simplify3D, only Cura, that is until I found this one. I have not tried it yet. I just purchased two BT remotes for my older phones and printed out the remote holder and attached it to my Ender 3 pro. Is it possible to get all your settings in Simplify3D?
Thanks,
Danny
But how you delete the things where the pla go out?
Devin, you are scaring children with those buggy eyes... You could sell those to interested parties before Halloween.
lol that intro
I LOVED the intro. Great video!
Still no workaround for the head that keeps extruding while going back to the layer from the park place in cura?
Thank you. This was a amazing video
Definitely doing this. BTW lots of ppl asking about layer change code in Cura? Any answers? Best I can think of is opening the g-code file in a text editor and doing a search/replace for ;LAYER + number
What's the 3d printed you advise me by it..please (anycubic i3 mega.or.CR-10.or.anet a8)
Is there a gcode I can add at the layer change for a little extra retraction? I get little blobs building up when the print head comes back