In this review video I discuss Rublev Oil Paints, made by Natural Pigments. They are known for making historical colors. www.WalcottFineArt.com www.naturalpigments.com
Thank you for all of your terrific videos. I have watched many and intend to watch them all. I really appreciate people who know what they are talking about! I have learned a lot.
I must say, you are really providing a very practical, interesting, to the point and enjoyable production here on UA-cam sir... I finally cracked. The Bob Ross fever took hold at last this new year. I have wanted to try since the 80's as a kid. His whole persona, vibe and approach unquestionably had a very special effect on my psyche... As a kid, of course I was directed to purchase acrylics. You know, the "You'll want to start with these" spiel? I dabbled a handful of times but it just didn't do it for me. Although I have nothing against them, something was missing and I didn't quite get it. Fast forward 25-30 years I went all out in the world of oils and now I can't stop. It has consumed me. Now I've already converted the ping pong table into a pretty bad little painting studio. Spent over a week just playing with different types of light bulbs to kill reflection, and get a decent color temp. What an ordeal that was but it paid of big. The enthusiasm is real. I mean, I haven't even ice fished this winter I'm so occupied. That's unheard of! ... Anyway, I know that the alla prima method is only the beginning for some of us, or an alternative for others, and I've already ventured outside the realm. But the good man convinced me to actually experience the joy of painting... I know this is more than long winded, so in the end I have to say this... I have never made a comment on UA-cam since its existence. Ever. But finding and following channels such as yours, along with Draw Mix Paint, and a few others, is a great privilege and I don't think I speak only for myself as to the appreciation us viewers feel. Especially given the intimidation factor of starting from nothing. To the point that I felt I just HAD to give you some props. The literal approach to applicable info., like your videos on specific colors, etc., is exactly what I needed to hit the ground running. And now I'm already half way to going broke! Ha! You deserve many more subs and keep up the great work Jason.
Steven, thanks so much for the nice comments! I really appreciate you taking the time to let me know you are enjoying my videos, and I'm glad you found them helpful. I agree that acrylics weren't for me either. I know exactly what you mean about the "start with these" speech. I wish I knew why that happened since oils are so much easier to work with. In truth oils are better for beginners because they are far more forgiving and easy to use. I can certainly relate to art supplies draining the wallet!! :) If you've seen my video where I give a tour of my studio, you'll get a taste of the madness. I started years ago in the 1990s with Bob Ross myself. I got bored with it after awhile, but it got me going and for that I will always be grateful to him. I think it's really awesome that you turned your ping-pong table into a studio! Very clever... Enjoy your painting and thanks again!
Right on brotha. Hey while I'm here, I have a question or two that maybe you would have some advice to. So, for my very first painting, the closest I could find were the Permalba line from the only small business art shop around here in Oakland county Mi. (I read that you grew up not far from here) It only took me one sitting to realize that yellow and white get used up pretty quickly painting mountains and foliage, and the Permalba white, although a reasonable quality white, felt a touch too soft to get a good snow break as a beginner. I then figured out Hobby Lobby had his line so I purchased the whole thing especially since I couldn't seem to find any brushes comparable to the 1in., 2in., oval, etc. but then I got some extra, cad colors and greens from that art shop as I try to shop with small businesses when I can. Then I figured out that the Winton line has the firmest titanium white available so I got some big ol tubes at half price from michaels cause I was still burning through those little tubes of white. You can't beat those deals at Michaels, and I am quite happy with the winton white, it really breaks, even better than Ross white. Now that you know my life story, I'm curious, as I also bought a complete spectrum of mediums from gambling and W&N but I have yet to use them. 1st, I got the cold wax, and Liquin Impasto and wonder if either would be good for firming up my base colors. I planned on trying the impasto first because I read that it dries more properly. 2nd, between both Galkyds, linseed oil, and liquid clear, what would you suggest to thin my highlights with? I tried a little clear, and have mostly just used thinner, but the thinner just seems to wash it out too much but I would guess its typical that I struggle to not pull off base color when tapping highlights. Disappointingly frustrating. I want to try the galkyd or the light but don't have any experience with the retarders. Maybe on top of the impasto I've came to assume. And last, from watching you, I feel I should get a nice lead white but the only one I've found is Georgian, but it says (hue). Tried reading up on it and couldn't really get much on it and I figured it won't be much different from all the white I have. Any direction on a lead or flake white that won't cost me 30$ or more? I know I can always shop online but I enjoy going out on the hunt. I think I've learned much quicker by physically shopping. I do know that the paints I have are not of high quality but it's ok for now, I'll go through them and I'm sure I will continue to experiment... thank you greatly for taking the time to write back earlier, these are the 3 concerns I've been really trying to find some answers to, without wasting more paint and canvas, and I'd think you've been through it all so I guess I had to bother you! Thanks again sir, and I hope I am not overly imposing.
Hi Steven, I am happy to answer your questions as best I can! I was kinda always under the impression that Permalba/Weber was the manufacturer of the Ross colors but I could be wrong about that. Yes, the Winton oils are a good choice as a substitute since they are so stiff. Glad you are getting the paint to break! That is one of the hardest things to learn with Bob Ross. Even though you express a desire to shop at retail stores, (which I applaud!) I do recommend for certain things going online to get it. I think you will be surprised at A) How much you can save and B) The vastly better selection to choose from. I might even go so far as to say don't go to Michaels. I have always found them to be terribly over priced for art supplies. As far as Lead White goes, they are going to be more expensive due to the fact that it is a less common pigment. Jerry's Artarama carries the Winsor & Newton Cremnitz (Lead) White (big tube) for $28 bit.ly/2jNugAX That is in their Artists Oil Line (not Winton) and is the only inexpensive one I know of. Typically the big tubes of Lead White go for $70 to $80. You are correct that the Georgian Flake White Hue is not genuine. Any color labeled as "hue" means it is an imitation. Either to make a lower cost alternative or because the genuine color is unavailable. Most people don't realize they don't make pigments for artists. The market share is too small. All pigments are manufactured for automotive and manufacturing industries. If they decide to discontinue a color because there is no longer a demand for it in those industries, artists suffer as collateral damage. Quinacridone Gold was a perfect example. I'm not sure Lead White would work for the Bob Ross stuff though... I might save that for more traditional works. You can always try a small tube and see if you like it. For getting the highlights to stick, if I remember correctly, Bob used Liquid White to mix in with the color to make it stick. It is important for the paint to be thinner/more oily to get it to stick to the base color. Also make sure to put a lot of paint on your brush when doing the highlights. I'm not sure you need all those mediums! I wouldn't mix any with the base colors...you want those to stay as dry as possible. Regular Liquin is probably sufficient for any time you need to make your paints smoother and dry faster. The only way to get better at being an artist is to practice a lot, and keep practicing! Hope this helps! :)
Dude, you're awesome. Preciate it... Yeah I don't plan on only doing that style so I figured I might as well get a small bottle of the basic array of mediums with those half off coupons they give you each time and just build up a little base of options to try. I have a tendency to go all or nothing with things, maybe overboard, but it's fun. And yes I forgot to mention the liquid white, I've tried it as well. I think it must just be my technique I need to work on. And yep Weber does make his line. In fact, I was told they are the same, and so I presumed it must be a marketing tactic. But, after using both, I realized that they actually did augment or tweak the formulations a bit. Pigments as well as consistency, but only with certain colors. Like the "bright red", and his "cad yellow, as well as the white. And more notably, the "midnight black". Otherwise I believe it is the same product. Although, I also learned from you a few days back, about the chromatic black, which apparently seems to be a comparable. The midnight is made with phthalo green and alizarin. And I'll tell you, it really is much more lively to use than the standard blacks... I think you've reinforced the idea of just dousing the brush with paint. I guess that early on it's intimidating because you use and waste so much paint for such a small amount to get on the canvas so you find yourself holding back thinking, "It'll work". Ultimately though, the best way for it to work right must be to disregard that frugalness. Haha and one last thing that caught my eye that was quite the oddity. I've done about 6 or 7 paintings, and my third one was the "Peaceful Reflections" specimen, just out of sheer intrigue. It wasn't till a few weeks later that I found your channel, eventually saw your only Ross related video, and your example was the same one... that's a one in over 400 chance! Pretty cool though. And hopefully I'll get it down as well as you did and I'm looking forward to going off imagination very soon once I'm comfortable... I will probably get that white, or one of them. Seems to have a similar place as the Chromatic Black does for mixing and It will be cool to try for adjusting values of other colors. I did find online W&N's artist color flake white, but it said hue as well. It must have been a different or lesser product from what you mentioned... alright, I guess that about wraps up my driveling rattle. Thanks again for your authenticity, it is great to communicate with the adept and credible.
Strike that, I just went back to your video on white and I guess the whole part on the W&N went right out my other ear! I don't know why I didn't remember that before I asked.
Thanks for another great video! Every time I watch,I learn something new and get obsessed with some brilliant new to me,color I must try. Thanks again!
anyone how takes their time to share their experience and labor of effort, I say thank you VERY much for sharing, I am already a customer of Rublev with my first purchase on Lead White, but this is very nice thing to do here and very appreciated!
I absolutely love the products from Rublev especially the oil paints. I have bought almost every color every time I get a paycheck I’m buying more of their products. Their products are the very best and I only use top quality art products. Thanks for the video.
I love Rublev's Minium. It's unlike anything else I've ever used. It is actually quite nice for painting flesh. It has the look of light through flesh--like a back-lit ear. It's a paint that was also responsible for the amazing preservation of certain Graeco-Roman mummies found in the Fuyum region of Egypt. I highly recommend using lead based paints and Natural Pigments offers many great choices.
Thanks for such a great comment Nathan! I am really pleased to hear from someone that has actually used the Minium pigment. I'm fascinated to learn what you said about the glow it creates in flesh tones. A lot of the lead based pigments seem to have that same quality. Naples Yellow is great for adding to background colors, because it gives it that "airy" look.
Lead based paint offers qualities you just can't achieve with other paints and people who chose not to use them based on their over-exaggerated toxicity are really missing out.
As to the flesh glow, a representative from Natural Pigments told me that John Currin uses minium around the edges of his figures, which is fascinating to me.
There are 11 colours from Maimeri called Rinascimento colours ( renaissance ) that are coarse-ground in walnut oil but with modern pigments for light fastness. They also do the Italia line in historic earth's - 11 colours also and are quite cheap. The Rublev orange molybdate is a quick dryer and redder the minium
these are insanely beautiful! need to go back to oils again! (had to wait for the weather to warm up since I'm not allowed in the house with oils unfortunately: p) thank you for the comparison especially these are inspiring paints.
Great review, I'm a huge fan of Rublev colors! Tried minium, LOVE the color, but the entire tube dries out so darned fast, even if I store it in the fridge next to a cotton ball soaked with oil of clove. I even wrapped the tube in plastic wrap, to no avail. Miss seeing you here on YT, I have the beach painting I won on my wall and think of you. Much love from New Mexico USA!❤❤❤
Thanks so much for the nice comment! Yes, I stopped making videos, but hope to again someday. You are not alone... Minium dries SUPER quick! Even in a sealed tube. It's really a color you need to know you're going to use it up within a month when you buy a tube. Even Rublev themselves only makes it in small batches, because stock cannot be stored long term. Thanks for watching :)
Lapis lazli was even mentioned in the book of Leviticus. That was written around 3000 years ago. That Lead-tin yellow looks like liquid light. Beautiful. I have only one tube of Rublev. Blue Black. haven't tried it yet.
Thanks for the great comment Ike! Lapis Lazuli has been around for a very long time! Yes, the lead tin yellow is one of my favorite colors. I'm guessing you will really like the Rublev once you try it.
Thanks for the info! :) Mixing my own paint is something I have never tried! Companies like Rublev, Michael Harding etc have spent many years perfecting their products and I feel like I might end up wasting more materials (and money) trying to get it right than just buying the finished paint. LOL. There is a guy on UA-cam who makes his own Lead White: ua-cam.com/video/FLHrajfsT0c/v-deo.html
Glad you enjoyed it! Because Rublev only does historical colors, it's a little harder to go this route with their paints. If cost is no object, then I would say Naples Yellow, Vermilion and Ultramarine Green Shade, would probably be the closest. Please keep in mind I have not used those specific colors. If you need lower priced colors, then you could do Yellow Ochre, Venetian Red and Ultramarine Blue...but you won't get a full color range from those. They do offer Chrome Yellows and Alizarin Crimson, but those are known to be fairly impermanent pigments.
Very nice and impressive colours . I looked it up and found it in the UK . I am sure I will give it a try. What brushes do you use and what medium with these colours?
Thanks for the comment! I hope you get a chance to try the paints. I use a combination of different brushes, mostly Chinese hog bristle. Two great brands are Silver Grand Prix and the Rosemary & Co. I mostly use a traditional medium of 1/3 Turpentine 1/3 Linseed oil and 1/3 Dammar. It's best to use it sparingly.
Hello Jason, I hope you are doing well and wish you a peaceful christmas time. I have a question about heavy metal pigments. While not directly toxic if used carefully, lead, antimonate and also cadmium are definitely toxic for the environment, especially if water gets contaminated or the particles become airborne. Sewage plants often don't filter out those substances, and heavy metals should never be disposed of in the trash. How do you handle the cleaning so that nothing can get into the environment? Do you bring every bit of contaminated cloth and cleaner to a special facility? Also, most oil painters I know simply clean their brushes with soap in a sink, thus contaminating water with the metal parts. I have no issue working with heavy metal pigments (I don't use lead but I love my cadmiums), but taking care of responsible cleaning really makes me gravitate towards easier pigments where I can simply wash my brushes and trash the rags. I know that we are talking about minor quantities compared to industrial applications, but these metals accumulate in the environment over time even in small amounts, and I wish artists to have our choice of color for centuries to come :)
there are plenty of heavy metals in the sludge that remains after sewage treatment, i wouldnt worry about the little bit that you contribute washing brushes.
To be honest I probably won't do that because Genuine Vermilion is VERY expensive. It's not a color I use, so I'd be buying it just to make a video. There is a section in my "Weird and Obsolete Pigments" video where I show a close up of Cad Red Light compared to Vermilion in my Michael Harding Color Chart. They're actual paint swatches so you can see the differences. Thanks for watching! :)
Michael harding made minium but it was a dismal failure...I bought a tube and it turned into a lead doorstop... he took it off the market.The Rublev minium is a lot better but keep the cap on as it dries quickly...you could add it to your cadmiums to quicken the drying...same with the lead yellows.
Thanx for the videos. Im planning to have a paint collection consisting only of Rublev, Geneva, Vasari, and Maybe Old Holland, but im trying to decide which colors i should have for each. Im probably gunna make review videos for them too. Any info or opinions on these would be helpful. I just received the Geneva essential pallett in the mail
Thanks for watching! I have never used the Geneva, so I can't really comment on those. The other brands are all quite good! Old Holland is perhaps a bit overpriced, but they are nice. I find them a bit stiff sometimes though. My favorite is Rublev... I find them to have the best quality overall. Vasari is about equal to Old Holland in quality, but not as thick.
Have you tried the Geneva paints, yet? Limited pallet, hand made, small batches. Gorgeous paints!!! No lead white - the purpose is to create paints with no medium that are safer to work around. I am heading off to buy some Rublev Lead White, however ;)
Have you ever used Robert Doak oil paint? It is my favorite brand. Maybe you could do a review on them if you have any tubes. I think a lot of people haven't heard of it.
Thanks for watching Eric! I have heard of Robert Doak. I believe he mentored Eric Silver who later started Blue Ridge Oils. I have never used any of the Doak paints, but I have heard good things about them.
Walcott Fine Art If you get the chance, check out Robert Doak’s Egyptian blue. I think it’s the only reasonably priced Egyptian blue in the world (Kremer pigments has a 1/4 teaspoon for $27) You might have the ability to raise the profile of this forgotten blue and maybe get it back into production somewhere, if it is any good. If it really is genuine PB31 I’m interested to know if it makes any decent violets or greens, what the transparency and tinting strength are like. With manganese blue running out, maybe it could be a good replacement? I am out of the states right now and can’t afford to get it shipped all the way here. I love your videos Jason thanks so much for doing this.
Hello, I have been using rublev oil paints for some time and for some time I have health problems: -dizziness -headache - nausea - spots appeared on my face - sometimes a lot of confusion did someone experience the same thing using rublev oil paints if so can you tell me what symptoms have you had? thank you for informing me very kind to you!
Sound like you may be allergic to the ingredients in it. I had coworkers allergic to febrezee products and she have the same symptoms. Stop using it and be sure it not also the oil that they use that can be more common in you house just in case. If you have the time you can go to the doctor that can diagnose it to be sure it not nothing more serious.
would love to try these some day, I'm wondering if they're shiping to europe? I find it quite hard to find a lead white here in czech republic, seems like no one offers it here. Have you ever heard of the Umton brand? they claim themselves as artist grade and here they're almost cheaper than some of the student brands. I use them and like them a lot. Thanks for a nice video! :)
Thanks so much for the comment! I don't know if Natural Pigments ships to Europe. There is a link to the website in the video description so you might be able to find out. It looks like Umton is only in your area. It's not sold in the USA.
A great deal of things in nature are actually very muted, it is often the difference between light and dark and warm and cool colours, rather than the use of a bright, richly pigmented colour, think Old masters
Very true! Learning to control color is one thing an artist needs to learn as they progress. However I do feel like starting with the most bright saturated colors is the best way because you can always tone them down to make your painting, but you can't go the other way. Thanks for watching! :)
Great question! I actually prefer the Rublev color, but Michael Harding's is good too. Harding Lead Tin Yellow Lemon is actually closer in hue to the Rublev color, as the other one is too light for my tastes. The Rublev is also a little smoother and more brushable. Thanks for watching! :)
Here's something for you to chew on. Rembrandt's secret was blumbonacrite. I asked natural pigments who sells Rublev if they stock that, and they said no. But they wrote an article where they said it's not added in paint, but was used in manuscripts. Another article I read states that it was used in car paint manufacturing. I also read that it's made from lead asitate and co2. So if I can make my own lead carbonate from lead plates, then the waste, acitate I can use to create Rembrands secret paint......and I'll be one step away from hanging my paintings in the prado.
Plumbonacrite is not available as a pigment. According to the scientists that found it in Rembrandt's painting, it forms in situ when cooking lead monoxide and linseed oil.
I am not sure yet when I'll be making new videos, but I will keep your idea on my list! In the meantime, you can be assured most good paint brands use high quality pigments that don't fade. Some pigments will fade simply because they aren't lightfast, which has nothing to do with the quality of the paint. The main one to avoid is Alizarin Crimson which is PR83. Thanks for watching!
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's not a fair comparison to mix blue and white of different brands but use Titanium white for one and Lead white for another. Titanium white is more opaque in all brands. So your conclusion was expected and says nothing of the quality between W&N and Rublev because Lead white's tinting strength is not nearly as strong.
Thanks for watching. The mixing experiment in the video is exactly what it appears to be. Only the Ultramarine Blues were from different brands. The white piles were both W&N Titanium White. I'm sorry if I didn't make that more clear in the video!
Before I started watching this video, I was about to break the bank, but when you started mixing those ultramarines it had dawned on me - it's not the quality of the paint that helps you create better art. A painting is simply an arrangement of relationships: light to dark, cool to warm, sharp to soft, linear to mass. But the most important of these relationships is that of the large, simple general shapes, defined by VALUE, not by colour clarity, saturation or texture. This forms the foundation of the painting, and until one secures these relationships, all the best brushes, mediums and paints in the world aren’t going to redeem their painting from pedestrianism or mediocrity. The most powerful tool is our ability to strike out the light from the vast bareness of the canvas.
Yes! You are SO right! My old teacher used to say "There's no magic in the paint". While using good quality materials certainly makes it a smoother ride, it's lots and lots of practice that makes art good. Thanks for watching! :)
Thank you for all of your terrific videos. I have watched many and intend to watch them all. I really appreciate people who know what they are talking about! I have learned a lot.
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you've enjoyed my videos. :)
I must say, you are really providing a very practical, interesting, to the point and enjoyable production here on UA-cam sir... I finally cracked. The Bob Ross fever took hold at last this new year. I have wanted to try since the 80's as a kid. His whole persona, vibe and approach unquestionably had a very special effect on my psyche... As a kid, of course I was directed to purchase acrylics. You know, the "You'll want to start with these" spiel? I dabbled a handful of times but it just didn't do it for me. Although I have nothing against them, something was missing and I didn't quite get it. Fast forward 25-30 years I went all out in the world of oils and now I can't stop. It has consumed me. Now I've already converted the ping pong table into a pretty bad little painting studio. Spent over a week just playing with different types of light bulbs to kill reflection, and get a decent color temp. What an ordeal that was but it paid of big. The enthusiasm is real. I mean, I haven't even ice fished this winter I'm so occupied. That's unheard of! ... Anyway, I know that the alla prima method is only the beginning for some of us, or an alternative for others, and I've already ventured outside the realm. But the good man convinced me to actually experience the joy of painting... I know this is more than long winded, so in the end I have to say this... I have never made a comment on UA-cam since its existence. Ever. But finding and following channels such as yours, along with Draw Mix Paint, and a few others, is a great privilege and I don't think I speak only for myself as to the appreciation us viewers feel. Especially given the intimidation factor of starting from nothing. To the point that I felt I just HAD to give you some props. The literal approach to applicable info., like your videos on specific colors, etc., is exactly what I needed to hit the ground running. And now I'm already half way to going broke! Ha! You deserve many more subs and keep up the great work Jason.
Steven, thanks so much for the nice comments! I really appreciate you taking the time to let me know you are enjoying my videos, and I'm glad you found them helpful. I agree that acrylics weren't for me either. I know exactly what you mean about the "start with these" speech. I wish I knew why that happened since oils are so much easier to work with. In truth oils are better for beginners because they are far more forgiving and easy to use. I can certainly relate to art supplies draining the wallet!! :) If you've seen my video where I give a tour of my studio, you'll get a taste of the madness. I started years ago in the 1990s with Bob Ross myself. I got bored with it after awhile, but it got me going and for that I will always be grateful to him. I think it's really awesome that you turned your ping-pong table into a studio! Very clever... Enjoy your painting and thanks again!
Right on brotha. Hey while I'm here, I have a question or two that maybe you would have some advice to. So, for my very first painting, the closest I could find were the Permalba line from the only small business art shop around here in Oakland county Mi. (I read that you grew up not far from here) It only took me one sitting to realize that yellow and white get used up pretty quickly painting mountains and foliage, and the Permalba white, although a reasonable quality white, felt a touch too soft to get a good snow break as a beginner. I then figured out Hobby Lobby had his line so I purchased the whole thing especially since I couldn't seem to find any brushes comparable to the 1in., 2in., oval, etc. but then I got some extra, cad colors and greens from that art shop as I try to shop with small businesses when I can. Then I figured out that the Winton line has the firmest titanium white available so I got some big ol tubes at half price from michaels cause I was still burning through those little tubes of white. You can't beat those deals at Michaels, and I am quite happy with the winton white, it really breaks, even better than Ross white. Now that you know my life story, I'm curious, as I also bought a complete spectrum of mediums from gambling and W&N but I have yet to use them. 1st, I got the cold wax, and Liquin Impasto and wonder if either would be good for firming up my base colors. I planned on trying the impasto first because I read that it dries more properly. 2nd, between both Galkyds, linseed oil, and liquid clear, what would you suggest to thin my highlights with? I tried a little clear, and have mostly just used thinner, but the thinner just seems to wash it out too much but I would guess its typical that I struggle to not pull off base color when tapping highlights. Disappointingly frustrating. I want to try the galkyd or the light but don't have any experience with the retarders. Maybe on top of the impasto I've came to assume. And last, from watching you, I feel I should get a nice lead white but the only one I've found is Georgian, but it says (hue). Tried reading up on it and couldn't really get much on it and I figured it won't be much different from all the white I have. Any direction on a lead or flake white that won't cost me 30$ or more? I know I can always shop online but I enjoy going out on the hunt. I think I've learned much quicker by physically shopping. I do know that the paints I have are not of high quality but it's ok for now, I'll go through them and I'm sure I will continue to experiment... thank you greatly for taking the time to write back earlier, these are the 3 concerns I've been really trying to find some answers to, without wasting more paint and canvas, and I'd think you've been through it all so I guess I had to bother you! Thanks again sir, and I hope I am not overly imposing.
Hi Steven, I am happy to answer your questions as best I can! I was kinda always under the impression that Permalba/Weber was the manufacturer of the Ross colors but I could be wrong about that. Yes, the Winton oils are a good choice as a substitute since they are so stiff. Glad you are getting the paint to break! That is one of the hardest things to learn with Bob Ross. Even though you express a desire to shop at retail stores, (which I applaud!) I do recommend for certain things going online to get it. I think you will be surprised at A) How much you can save and B) The vastly better selection to choose from. I might even go so far as to say don't go to Michaels. I have always found them to be terribly over priced for art supplies. As far as Lead White goes, they are going to be more expensive due to the fact that it is a less common pigment. Jerry's Artarama carries the Winsor & Newton Cremnitz (Lead) White (big tube) for $28 bit.ly/2jNugAX That is in their Artists Oil Line (not Winton) and is the only inexpensive one I know of. Typically the big tubes of Lead White go for $70 to $80. You are correct that the Georgian Flake White Hue is not genuine. Any color labeled as "hue" means it is an imitation. Either to make a lower cost alternative or because the genuine color is unavailable. Most people don't realize they don't make pigments for artists. The market share is too small. All pigments are manufactured for automotive and manufacturing industries. If they decide to discontinue a color because there is no longer a demand for it in those industries, artists suffer as collateral damage. Quinacridone Gold was a perfect example. I'm not sure Lead White would work for the Bob Ross stuff though... I might save that for more traditional works. You can always try a small tube and see if you like it. For getting the highlights to stick, if I remember correctly, Bob used Liquid White to mix in with the color to make it stick. It is important for the paint to be thinner/more oily to get it to stick to the base color. Also make sure to put a lot of paint on your brush when doing the highlights. I'm not sure you need all those mediums! I wouldn't mix any with the base colors...you want those to stay as dry as possible. Regular Liquin is probably sufficient for any time you need to make your paints smoother and dry faster. The only way to get better at being an artist is to practice a lot, and keep practicing! Hope this helps! :)
Dude, you're awesome. Preciate it... Yeah I don't plan on only doing that style so I figured I might as well get a small bottle of the basic array of mediums with those half off coupons they give you each time and just build up a little base of options to try. I have a tendency to go all or nothing with things, maybe overboard, but it's fun. And yes I forgot to mention the liquid white, I've tried it as well. I think it must just be my technique I need to work on. And yep Weber does make his line. In fact, I was told they are the same, and so I presumed it must be a marketing tactic. But, after using both, I realized that they actually did augment or tweak the formulations a bit. Pigments as well as consistency, but only with certain colors. Like the "bright red", and his "cad yellow, as well as the white. And more notably, the "midnight black". Otherwise I believe it is the same product. Although, I also learned from you a few days back, about the chromatic black, which apparently seems to be a comparable. The midnight is made with phthalo green and alizarin. And I'll tell you, it really is much more lively to use than the standard blacks... I think you've reinforced the idea of just dousing the brush with paint. I guess that early on it's intimidating because you use and waste so much paint for such a small amount to get on the canvas so you find yourself holding back thinking, "It'll work". Ultimately though, the best way for it to work right must be to disregard that frugalness. Haha and one last thing that caught my eye that was quite the oddity. I've done about 6 or 7 paintings, and my third one was the "Peaceful Reflections" specimen, just out of sheer intrigue. It wasn't till a few weeks later that I found your channel, eventually saw your only Ross related video, and your example was the same one... that's a one in over 400 chance! Pretty cool though. And hopefully I'll get it down as well as you did and I'm looking forward to going off imagination very soon once I'm comfortable... I will probably get that white, or one of them. Seems to have a similar place as the Chromatic Black does for mixing and It will be cool to try for adjusting values of other colors. I did find online W&N's artist color flake white, but it said hue as well. It must have been a different or lesser product from what you mentioned... alright, I guess that about wraps up my driveling rattle. Thanks again for your authenticity, it is great to communicate with the adept and credible.
Strike that, I just went back to your video on white and I guess the whole part on the W&N went right out my other ear! I don't know why I didn't remember that before I asked.
Thanks for another great video! Every time I watch,I learn something new and get obsessed with some brilliant new to me,color I must try. Thanks again!
Wow thanks for such a nice comment! :) I am so glad you are enjoying the videos on my channel. Thanks for watching!
anyone how takes their time to share their experience and labor of effort, I say thank you VERY much for sharing, I am already a customer of Rublev with my first purchase on Lead White, but this is very nice thing to do here and very appreciated!
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video. :)
I absolutely love the products from Rublev especially the oil paints. I have bought almost every color every time I get a paycheck I’m buying more of their products. Their products are the very best and I only use top quality art products. Thanks for the video.
Ruiblev makes great stuff indeed! Thanks for watching :)
I love Rublev's Minium. It's unlike anything else I've ever used. It is actually quite nice for painting flesh. It has the look of light through flesh--like a back-lit ear. It's a paint that was also responsible for the amazing preservation of certain Graeco-Roman mummies found in the Fuyum region of Egypt. I highly recommend using lead based paints and Natural Pigments offers many great choices.
Thanks for such a great comment Nathan! I am really pleased to hear from someone that has actually used the Minium pigment. I'm fascinated to learn what you said about the glow it creates in flesh tones. A lot of the lead based pigments seem to have that same quality. Naples Yellow is great for adding to background colors, because it gives it that "airy" look.
Lead based paint offers qualities you just can't achieve with other paints and people who chose not to use them based on their over-exaggerated toxicity are really missing out.
As to the flesh glow, a representative from Natural Pigments told me that John Currin uses minium around the edges of his figures, which is fascinating to me.
I totally agree! Simple common sense will make the use of lead based pigments pretty safe.
I recently bought a tube of that Minium. Man, it weighs as much as a brick! Lovely color though.
Informative and helpful, thank you Jason
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
There are 11 colours from Maimeri called Rinascimento colours ( renaissance ) that are coarse-ground in walnut oil but with modern pigments for light fastness. They also do the Italia line in historic earth's - 11 colours also and are quite cheap. The Rublev orange molybdate is a quick dryer and redder the minium
Thanks again for the additional information and for your comments! I will have to check out those Maimeri paints...
Enjoyed the video, and the comment section has been very interesting. Think you are doing something very nice here, Mr. Walcott. Thanks
Thank you! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. I agree the comments have been very good and informative.
Nice interesting revelation on Rublev ...quite interesting to know they r sticking to historical colour profile.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
Good morning: Very well explained the work. Thank you very much.from Barcelona Spain
Thanks for watching Pablo! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
these are insanely beautiful! need to go back to oils again! (had to wait for the weather to warm up since I'm not allowed in the house with oils unfortunately: p) thank you for the comparison especially these are inspiring paints.
Thanks for watching! Yes, Rublev is among the best brands out there. I hope you can try some! :)
Great review, I'm a huge fan of Rublev colors! Tried minium, LOVE the color, but the entire tube dries out so darned fast, even if I store it in the fridge next to a cotton ball soaked with oil of clove. I even wrapped the tube in plastic wrap, to no avail. Miss seeing you here on YT, I have the beach painting I won on my wall and think of you. Much love from New Mexico USA!❤❤❤
Thanks so much for the nice comment! Yes, I stopped making videos, but hope to again someday. You are not alone... Minium dries SUPER quick! Even in a sealed tube. It's really a color you need to know you're going to use it up within a month when you buy a tube. Even Rublev themselves only makes it in small batches, because stock cannot be stored long term. Thanks for watching :)
Rublev is the best in the world, without a doubt. Thanks for showing us.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching. :)
Lapis lazli was even mentioned in the book of Leviticus. That was written around 3000 years ago. That Lead-tin yellow looks like liquid light. Beautiful. I have only one tube of Rublev. Blue Black. haven't tried it yet.
Thanks for the great comment Ike! Lapis Lazuli has been around for a very long time! Yes, the lead tin yellow is one of my favorite colors. I'm guessing you will really like the Rublev once you try it.
Rublev sells the dry pigment for lead white on it's website for $14.50 per 100 grams if you are into mixing your own oils.
Thanks for the info! :) Mixing my own paint is something I have never tried! Companies like Rublev, Michael Harding etc have spent many years perfecting their products and I feel like I might end up wasting more materials (and money) trying to get it right than just buying the finished paint. LOL. There is a guy on UA-cam who makes his own Lead White: ua-cam.com/video/FLHrajfsT0c/v-deo.html
Thanks so much for another wonderful video. Can you share which colors would you use if you just wanted the primary colors, plus white and black?
Glad you enjoyed it! Because Rublev only does historical colors, it's a little harder to go this route with their paints. If cost is no object, then I would say Naples Yellow, Vermilion and Ultramarine Green Shade, would probably be the closest. Please keep in mind I have not used those specific colors. If you need lower priced colors, then you could do Yellow Ochre, Venetian Red and Ultramarine Blue...but you won't get a full color range from those. They do offer Chrome Yellows and Alizarin Crimson, but those are known to be fairly impermanent pigments.
Your videos have gotten me to order some Rublev today...am Old Holland and Schminke user, so will be interesting to play...am unabashed paint junkie
I hope you like the Rublev! I think they are wonderful paints. Thanks for watching. :)
Very nice and impressive colours . I looked it up and found it in the UK . I am sure I will give it a try. What brushes do you use and what medium with these colours?
Thanks for the comment! I hope you get a chance to try the paints. I use a combination of different brushes, mostly Chinese hog bristle. Two great brands are Silver Grand Prix and the Rosemary & Co. I mostly use a traditional medium of 1/3 Turpentine 1/3 Linseed oil and 1/3 Dammar. It's best to use it sparingly.
Hello Jason, I hope you are doing well and wish you a peaceful christmas time. I have a question about heavy metal pigments. While not directly toxic if used carefully, lead, antimonate and also cadmium are definitely toxic for the environment, especially if water gets contaminated or the particles become airborne. Sewage plants often don't filter out those substances, and heavy metals should never be disposed of in the trash. How do you handle the cleaning so that nothing can get into the environment? Do you bring every bit of contaminated cloth and cleaner to a special facility? Also, most oil painters I know simply clean their brushes with soap in a sink, thus contaminating water with the metal parts. I have no issue working with heavy metal pigments (I don't use lead but I love my cadmiums), but taking care of responsible cleaning really makes me gravitate towards easier pigments where I can simply wash my brushes and trash the rags. I know that we are talking about minor quantities compared to industrial applications, but these metals accumulate in the environment over time even in small amounts, and I wish artists to have our choice of color for centuries to come :)
there are plenty of heavy metals in the sludge that remains after sewage treatment, i wouldnt worry about the little bit that you contribute washing brushes.
I love to see you do a Vermillion and a Cadmium red light just to show the difference between the two.
To be honest I probably won't do that because Genuine Vermilion is VERY expensive. It's not a color I use, so I'd be buying it just to make a video. There is a section in my "Weird and Obsolete Pigments" video where I show a close up of Cad Red Light compared to Vermilion in my Michael Harding Color Chart. They're actual paint swatches so you can see the differences. Thanks for watching! :)
Michael harding made minium but it was a dismal failure...I bought a tube and it turned into a lead doorstop... he took it off the market.The Rublev minium is a lot better but keep the cap on as it dries quickly...you could add it to your cadmiums to quicken the drying...same with the lead yellows.
Thanks for watching and for the wonderful information! Yes, I have heard that Minium dries very, very quickly and can even do so in the tube.
Thanx for the videos. Im planning to have a paint collection consisting only of Rublev, Geneva, Vasari, and Maybe Old Holland, but im trying to decide which colors i should have for each. Im probably gunna make review videos for them too. Any info or opinions on these would be helpful. I just received the Geneva essential pallett in the mail
Thanks for watching! I have never used the Geneva, so I can't really comment on those. The other brands are all quite good! Old Holland is perhaps a bit overpriced, but they are nice. I find them a bit stiff sometimes though. My favorite is Rublev... I find them to have the best quality overall. Vasari is about equal to Old Holland in quality, but not as thick.
Walcott Fine Art Awesome thank you for the insight
Have you tried the Geneva paints, yet? Limited pallet, hand made, small batches. Gorgeous paints!!! No lead white - the purpose is to create paints with no medium that are safer to work around. I am heading off to buy some Rublev Lead White, however ;)
I have not tried the Geneva paints. I hope you like the Rublev Lead white! It's great stuff. Thanks for watching! :)
Have you ever used Robert Doak oil paint? It is my favorite brand. Maybe you could do a review on them if you have any tubes. I think a lot of people haven't heard of it.
Thanks for watching Eric! I have heard of Robert Doak. I believe he mentored Eric Silver who later started Blue Ridge Oils. I have never used any of the Doak paints, but I have heard good things about them.
Walcott Fine Art yes i have heard this as well
Walcott Fine Art If you get the chance, check out Robert Doak’s Egyptian blue. I think it’s the only reasonably priced Egyptian blue in the world (Kremer pigments has a 1/4 teaspoon for $27) You might have the ability to raise the profile of this forgotten blue and maybe get it back into production somewhere, if it is any good. If it really is genuine PB31 I’m interested to know if it makes any decent violets or greens, what the transparency and tinting strength are like. With manganese blue running out, maybe it could be a good replacement? I am out of the states right now and can’t afford to get it shipped all the way here. I love your videos Jason thanks so much for doing this.
Hello, I have been using rublev oil paints for some time and for some time I have health problems:
-dizziness
-headache
- nausea
- spots appeared on my face
- sometimes a lot of confusion
did someone experience the same thing using rublev oil paints if so can you tell me what symptoms have you had? thank you for informing me very kind to you!
Sound like you may be allergic to the ingredients in it. I had coworkers allergic to febrezee products and she have the same symptoms. Stop using it and be sure it not also the oil that they use that can be more common in you house just in case. If you have the time you can go to the doctor that can diagnose it to be sure it not nothing more serious.
would love to try these some day, I'm wondering if they're shiping to europe? I find it quite hard to find a lead white here in czech republic, seems like no one offers it here. Have you ever heard of the Umton brand? they claim themselves as artist grade and here they're almost cheaper than some of the student brands. I use them and like them a lot. Thanks for a nice video! :)
Thanks so much for the comment! I don't know if Natural Pigments ships to Europe. There is a link to the website in the video description so you might be able to find out. It looks like Umton is only in your area. It's not sold in the USA.
Šárka Turnerová hi, you can get them in the UK. they will probably ship to europe. www.supremepaint.co.uk/collections/rublev-paints-natural-pigments
Thanks for posting this info Adrian!
Thanks a lot! :)
Now they’re making tubed cadmiums and next are the mars range
Yes! I was very excited to see when Rublev came out with those Cadmiums last Spring...I hope to try some soon. Thanks for watching!
A great deal of things in nature are actually very muted, it is often the difference between light and dark and warm and cool colours, rather than the use of a bright, richly pigmented colour, think Old masters
Very true! Learning to control color is one thing an artist needs to learn as they progress. However I do feel like starting with the most bright saturated colors is the best way because you can always tone them down to make your painting, but you can't go the other way. Thanks for watching! :)
How does Rublev's Lead Tin Yellow compare to Michael Harding's Lead Tin Yellow? Are they similar?
Great question! I actually prefer the Rublev color, but Michael Harding's is good too. Harding Lead Tin Yellow Lemon is actually closer in hue to the Rublev color, as the other one is too light for my tastes. The Rublev is also a little smoother and more brushable. Thanks for watching! :)
does the lead tin yellow behave like a naples yellow making the backgrounsd airy?
Thanks for watching! Yes, the two colors are very similar and can more or less be interchanged.
Interesting paints! Lead white seems pretty toxic though
Important to note that Andrei Rublev was a painter, hence the name.
Thanks for the comment and extra info!
I want this brand.. Thanks
I hope you get a chance to try it! Thanks for watching :)
they make modern colors now.
Here's something for you to chew on. Rembrandt's secret was blumbonacrite. I asked natural pigments who sells Rublev if they stock that, and they said no. But they wrote an article where they said it's not added in paint, but was used in manuscripts. Another article I read states that it was used in car paint manufacturing. I also read that it's made from lead asitate and co2. So if I can make my own lead carbonate from lead plates, then the waste, acitate I can use to create Rembrands secret paint......and I'll be one step away from hanging my paintings in the prado.
Very interesting! I will have to look up that material and learn more. Thanks for the info and for watching! :)
Plumbonacrite is not available as a pigment. According to the scientists that found it in Rembrandt's painting, it forms in situ when cooking lead monoxide and linseed oil.
@@RublevColours Thanks for that information and a great comment! That is really interesting to learn about the Rembrandt paintings.
please make a video about light fastness and permenent about Michael Harding, williumsburg and rublive oil paint . I have
a lot of doubt about this
I am not sure yet when I'll be making new videos, but I will keep your idea on my list! In the meantime, you can be assured most good paint brands use high quality pigments that don't fade. Some pigments will fade simply because they aren't lightfast, which has nothing to do with the quality of the paint. The main one to avoid is Alizarin Crimson which is PR83. Thanks for watching!
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's not a fair comparison to mix blue and white of different brands but use Titanium white for one and Lead white for another. Titanium white is more opaque in all brands. So your conclusion was expected and says nothing of the quality between W&N and Rublev because Lead white's tinting strength is not nearly as strong.
Thanks for watching. The mixing experiment in the video is exactly what it appears to be. Only the Ultramarine Blues were from different brands. The white piles were both W&N Titanium White. I'm sorry if I didn't make that more clear in the video!
Before I started watching this video, I was about to break the bank, but when you started mixing those ultramarines it had dawned on me - it's not the quality of the paint that helps you create better art. A painting is simply an arrangement of relationships: light to dark, cool to warm, sharp to soft, linear to mass. But the most important of these relationships is that of the large, simple general shapes, defined by VALUE, not by colour clarity, saturation or texture. This forms the foundation of the painting, and until one secures these relationships, all the best brushes, mediums and paints in the world aren’t going to redeem their painting from pedestrianism or mediocrity. The most powerful tool is our ability to strike out the light from the vast bareness of the canvas.
Yes! You are SO right! My old teacher used to say "There's no magic in the paint". While using good quality materials certainly makes it a smoother ride, it's lots and lots of practice that makes art good. Thanks for watching! :)