I know you were super frustrated with that room transfer point, but seeing someone who is so competent at this also run into frustrating issues and having to redo stuff really helps me to feel comfortable with potentially doing this in the future! Thank you for working through it calmly (though I know you probably had a few choice words in mind haha).
I just want to give a heart felt thank you for all these A to Z tutorials you have made me feel like I can learn anything and made me a better man. I swear I will watch them all eventually.
I love the raw real life stuff not being edited out. Good stuff.
Best to learn from someone else's mistakes. It keeps your head from frustration to see the fix!
I KNOW it is so frustrating to pull up boards, but we need to see this to make us better at the work we do in our own homes and give us the confidence to try. We can make it perfect! THANK YOU!
You can do it! Number 1 rule!!! don't move forward until you are happy with what you just did. Cheers!
Oh my goodness this is just in time!! I am getting ready to put hardwood in my home.
I love watching your videos, I watch them all! You make it easy for this 60 year old FYI female to have the confidence to do any project around my home.
Never remove the bloopers! This stuff is gold!
I love the splines. A small block plane in your tool box is a must! Shaves the spline sticking out nicely.
Thank you. Love the project. Since I am renovating my home mostly alone this is just what I needed. Appreciate your humor
Great video. Thank you for showing the mistakes, and the solutions. That’s what makes this channel so honest and valuable.
Thanks for the Great tip on the 30 degree angle cut for the last board at the wall. Never thought of that.👍
You are amazing at handling screw ups ! I've worked with too many guys that start red faced throwing stuff around when dealing with issues on job, never mind on camera. Great job, thanks for vid.
Between you & the excellent laborer, I’ve learned a lot & I’ve been able to actually put some work in and get great results
Man!! You have the patience of a saint!
Awesome work awesome personality.
Love the videos
Again nice job👍 I've done 1500 sq ft of 3/4" various widths . It's not easy but turned out great. Saved thousands for sure. 😁
Jeff, I would like to put hard wood in but we will be doing laminate of some sort. Great video on engineered wood. Honestly I appreciate you working through tough cuts and mistakes as I am sure mose people here. You make it real for all of us and that is a credit to your teaching style. Thank you!
6:46 years ago I installed pre-finished bamboo floors with a similar adhesive. Same thing about there being nothing to remove it on the finished surface once it dries. It was so frustrating to work with and we ended up with several little drips or finger prints in the adhesive. Of all things, we managed to get it all off using those MrClean Magic Erasers and a ton of elbow grease! It did slightly buff the finish to a different shine, but it was so fine that with a little polishing/cleaning we managed to hide 99% of all visible differences. Worked better than a fine sandpaper. Not saying you should do this, but as a last result - it did work for us.
Jeff for the vacuum check out the dustopper snaps onto a 5 gallon bucket and helps save your filter. And if you have a good HP shop vac can even run 2 for even better separation. Then you only have to snap the top off and dump your 5 gallon bucket. I take my setup a step further because I run a hepa filter and not cheap to replace so I also use the bag for the vacuum. I was doing a huge woodworking project with tons of sanding filter would clog very quickly without this setup. After I haven’t even filled 1 bag yet because most everything collects in the bucket. HD typically stock them.
If you DO have potential for moisture problems, the Blue roll out mat with the foam mold resistant bottom is top notch. I believe it's called DMX. I used it on my in-laws basement 7 years ago, with 3/4 inch plywood, and that floor looks the same it did the day I put it in.
We installed LVP throughout our home. We actually do like it ,especially considering what the floor looked like before. However......my wife and I have both agreed that we wished we had at least installed engineered hardwood as it just has a better feel and look. To be honest, the cost is what made our decision. With all the cost of a full renovation, it gets really expensive real qwick. Had we just had a floor to renovate, without question, we would have chosen engineered hardwood if not actual hardwood. Thanks for the video!
Appreciate your hard work and effort to teach!! Salute
Really appreciate showing all the “mess ups” because lord know if you’re doing them, so will I 😂. Now I know what to do if/when it happens to more… and what to try to avoid
great video with excellent worker, really useful. THANK YOU
Hardwood in a basement? The owners must’ve gone MAD! 😂 I randomly stumbled upon this channel and I’ve been binge watching videos all day
This channel will come in handy when I get to DIY projects in my soon to be home
For the vacuum, get a cyclone attachment (Dust Deputy etc) and this will take over 90% of the stuff out of the equation before hitting the vacuum itself. Add a drywall filter bag into the mix and you end up with a combination that maintains flow and is easy to keep clean. I have a HEPA filter on the vacuum, and any dust that escapes the cyclone and gets past the filter bag will get trapped.
Track saw would really help those long slight angle rips on a off angle wall. Great excuse to convince the wife you need a track saw !
Just for future reference. Acclimation time is only a guide line. You don't know if the wood is properly acclimated until you take moisture readings of the wood flooring and compare that with the relative humidity and temperature but of the room so the wood can reach it's EMC . Also installing flooring like this you should put a moisture barrier like aqua b.
Exactly what I was going to comment. This is exactly what no one cares about these days. And did he seal the concrete underneath?
Glad to see the pro makes mistakes, not gloating, glad that you do it too.👍and you can show me how to fix without throwing the gun.
I yelled at the tv "it's not flush" 😫 but it's good to see how to remove and that folks make mistakes. Great video
I'm a licensed electrician. I don't believe in this video but in others I've seen you talk about the codes of other trades and to not fuck the next guy or make his job harder. Lots of respect for that bud. Very neat channel. Subscribe earned!
Also you don't edit your show to not show mistakes. Love your attitude!
Springfield, Ma
Quick tip, on starting the line without waiting a day before u can install rest of the floor. Do the same thing, except gluing, get ur first board firmly screw to the floor and start installing rest of the room. Than unscrew straight edge, use reverse tongue and go other direction. This way u don't need to face nail ur finish plank and fill in holes.
When u finishing ur room, and can't use staple gun anymore, of course use glue, but still nail ur boards, through the tongue, same way as u use staple gun. And use floor jack, to tighten the boards together against the wall. Put some scrap boards against the wall, not to damage it. And then just face nail very last board, right where u install the base board, no holes fill. Base board will cover it.
Yeah, u could also lay paper down, to prevent squeaky floor, and also work as a vapor barrier. Usually sell it hardwood sections in HD
@@vladimirleontyev9399 Glue and paper don’t work together. Most installations of wide (7”) engineered flies require glue (proper floor adhesive, not PL) and staples. You won’t get squeaking floors w adhesive.
Moral of the story for all the people that think they know what they’re doing and they make mistakes. Just take your time measure twice cut once do it right the first time or don’t do it at all. This is one of the few UA-camrs that show you how to do it the right way, and if he makes mistakes, he shows you how to fix them and do it right
I really needed this video Thanks 👍🏾
Get the Dustopper / or a Dust Deputy,((or make your own centrifugal dust separator "cyclone" bucket)) AND use the vacuum with a good bag and fine dust filter, , and get the floor attachment with brushes on it for the vacuum. You'll vacuum out cement bags with a clean filter and a faster removal of the dust on the flor at the end. No brooming and throwing dust in the air or killing vacuums
Really enjoyed this video
Thanks for explaining which way wood expands.And the trick with the pocket door! I wouldn’t have thought of that. Thank you also for the reminder that nothing is square and you’re always going to have to be figuring things out on the fly.
I could honestly watch you do this floor all day. Just a master craftsman at work... thanks!
I had a Craftsman pin nailer that jammed up so much I had to toss it. I use a DeWalt 18 gauge gun now even though it is huge.
For those watching, I want to preface my comments with the following :
1. I love Jeff and think he brings a great set of knowledge and skills to the DIYer. I have watched a ton of his videos and respected him for putting his work out for all to see and make comments on.
2. I have been a professional flooring installer for 20+ years
I noticed in your installation that you made two common mistakes.
1. You installed in a stair step or stair case manner. This makes the floors pattern look very repetitive or, at least, you can tell how you ran the floor. You should always make sure you stair step no more than two consecutive rows and break the stair step with a longer board
2. Where your short ends are on each board should be spaced no closer than the width of the board you're using. There are quite a few places in this install that have the end of one board only 2-3 from the end of the row in front of it. This is for two reasons, 1. Esthetically, it looks much better when spaced further appart, 2. Structually, the closer two ends are to each other, the more likelihood of gaps opening up precisely where that occurs.
Great video Jeff. When is the next live? I'm a**hole deep in remodeling the house I just closed on and I can't wait to send in pictures!
setting the date soon. check the banner on the channel for updates. Cheers!
Thanks for all your information Jeff. I have an issue with my vinyl plank flooring. It seems to have twisted. Pretty sure it was my installation. Any ideas of how to restraten flooring ?
S__t happens, as long as you keep your integrity and go back and fix it. Patience!. Believe it or not I enjoy laying a floor. As long as I am not in a hurry I find it relaxing.
Floor insulation … currently have hardwood floors on an addition to the house and it’s on concrete slab. Looking for idea to minimize the cold draft from the floors and what I can do to help the freezing floors. 10-15 degree difference from main part of house.
I'm kinda glad he had those issues because it shows he's human even though he knows everything about every trade
I was so scared that nail was going to shoot out while you had that gun pointed toward yourself!! I know what you are doing, but it still made me nervous. lol :)
28:28 After watching Jeff fix mistake after mistake, I must admit that, "Here's my next trick!" had me laughing!
Help, please. First, thanks for showing it's great help. Now my house has builder installed glued hardwood and previous owner installed floating hardwood on top of it. Due to this, all door trim got cut off to fit, so if we remove all hardwood, then door trim will have a huge gap. How can we fix it since we wanted to remove both layers of wood. Any advice
Hey, instead of sweeping the drywall compound on the floor, have u used a vortex with a bucket under it? 90% of plaster goes into bucket and saves your filter
Hello Jeff I installed re -engineered wood floor a few years ago but I have an issue in high traffic areas it has lost its color and actually faded in some areas .what can I do or do you have a video on refinishing or staining the wood floor thanks
Get a new blade on your chop saw it won’t cut those 45 degree angles leaving chips in wood. Your blade is smoking. Also why is there so much stair pattern in the layout?
Now I don’t feel so bad that I once put 18ga nails in my 16ga nailer. (They we’re out of the box in a drawer and I thought they were 16ga.) Cheers Jeff!
Love your channel. I live in Austin Texas in a 19 year old single story Slab on grade home . My question is can engineered hardwood flooring be glued on slab? Also do I need to add an underneath?
THANK YOU!
"Oh, YOU did this." versus "Whoa, you DID this?"... Priceless. (around @33:40)
LoL. Question... Do You Tubers walk around all day long, talking to themselves in everything they do ? LoL. Thanks for your vids, they're invaluable. I've had young helpers watch you work so they know how to act and get along on a job.
One thing that I've always heard, let the boxes of new flooring sit in the room for a day or two. This acclimates the new flooring to the interior temperature and humidity before installation and minimizes future expansion and contraction.
I went with 1 week on this project just because I had way too much wood stored in 1 space. Cheers!
Do you have an engineered hardwood acclimation video? Do you need to take the boards out of the box, just open the ends or do nothing but wait? I have 2 stacks of boxes with 8 boxes on each stack
So you can start in the middle and go either way tongue or groove doesn’t matter? If it’s a 9.5” wide plank is it required for adhesive?
Here's the thing, if you have a transition like right at 14:00 where you have 2 angles, one of which is 90 and the other is unknown, woodworkers have a way of finding that angle and it's a tool that everyone has seen but not many know how to use effectively: a T-bevel. You loosen the screw on the T-bevel, take your handle side and lay it up against your 90 and then line up the blade against the angle and tighten your screw. You now have the angle of the cut or sand your flooring needs make it fit. So now take the T-bevel and lay the handle against the long edge of your floor and you'll see how far you need to and to get it flush. Or, take your chopsaw and lay the handle against the fence with the hinge under the blade and bring the blade down and rotate until it's aligned with the blade of the T-bevel. Now your chopsaw will (THEORETICALLY!) make the correct cut each time. 😆 YMMV. And I'm sure you already knew this Jeff but for anyone else who looked at a T-bevel and never knew what it was for, "Fun With Weird Old-timey Tools".
Cheers. I am just trying to teach how to do it great and easy. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY i figured. I am one of those "old tools aficionados" and the T-bevel is such a cheap way (less than $10) to solve something I'd bet the pyramid builders even struggled with 5000 years ago. It wouldn't even surprise me if someone told me they had invented it back then.
If I’m laying this stuff in a bedroom and under the carpet is floor boards do I need to put osb sheet boarding on top of that to get a flat surface? As there’s gaps between the floor boards.
Thank you 🙏
Hi Jeff, I'm a fan of your informative videos. I am a subscriber and shop at your Amazon store to support. I have engineered wood glued on slab. It has developed gaps that are 1/8th of an inch and larger. Could you please let me know how to fix it? Lots of videos are about just moving the pieces but that is not an option because my home floor is glued to the slab. Thanks for your help.❤
what would you suggest for flooring in a RV that is subject to extreme heat? We tried cork and that worked for about 8 years.
Not the topic but I have a 1965 house, watched your basement video that said I shouldn't do it lol but have you ever done metal framing and a radon vent?
I’m going to install hardwood over my current engineered flooring. Do I need an underlay under my hardwood or anything else between the floors?…or can I just install the hardwood directly over the engineered?
I am doing 6"inch plank with nail and blu) glue assit laying onto subfloor. Do I need an underlayment?
I been getting ton of smoke from my miter saw until I bought I new blade. Oh man what a difference..like butter
A good blade is what makes it safe. dull blades and knives are when accidents happen. Cheers!
What is the particular product you’re using here called? When I’m looking for “Engineered hardwood” most of what I’m finding is vinyl core laminate with a hardwood veneer. If I’m looking for plywood with a hardwood wear layer, how should I find it?
What if the basement floor gets wet in 15 years from a plumbing leak, failed water heater, appliance leak or a drain back-up? I like your flooring concept for that basement but most basements get some water some time. I'll have to find a different floor system for my new basement, one that's either serviceable or less labor/cost to replace.
Great video !! What size staples or nails are you using with the nailer ? I’m doing 3/4 in engineered and 15.5 gauge staples but it’s splitting the tongue and seems too much or too powerful !
It sounds like you may need to replace the bumper on your flooring nailer. Our Bostitch was having the same issues a couple weeks ago. Cheers!
I actually had to replace it as it stopped working. You can see the grease coming out of the top. It had done too many floors by that point for sure. Cheers!
Hey friends, I am about to lay a floating wood floor in my bathroom. I installed a Round shower base, I am concerned what technique I'm supposed to use getting proper measurements around the base so that I can cut the floor. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
I appreciate the video! Trying to check out your cdn Amazon and Home Depot links but both are dead
Stair stepping in the thumbnail lol
Oh also! Is the laser level special for flooring or one that could be used for kitchen cabinet levelling as well? I think it’s the one tool don’t listed lol thanks again!
Why didn't you put the vapor barrier? and in case you do, how do you put the glow against the VB?
Is laying floor on a slab house the same as a basement installation? What underlayment, vapor barriers and other considerations are there?
in most cases it is a totally different situation. slab floors use adhesive to install in most cases. Cheers!
Is their a concrete slab underneath the subfloor? If it's a basement I'm assuming so. If so why OSB?
I would have glued the first row and hand nail it in place then staple pre drill the holes for the finish nails in the tongue
Say Jeff. You weren't able to cut the bottom of door jamb for the flooring to slip under so u don't have v to butt them?
Hi Jeff. Maybe you can suggest what type of an engineering floor is best when you have a pet (1 year old mid size dog) ? Went today to a local store and I really like maple but it`s a softwood and prone to scratches. Initially, I wanted to install a vinyl as they have gotten better, but something is missing. Something other than oak. Thanks M
Maple is a hardwood and is great for floors. the best kept secret is buy wood from your region as it performs best with your climate. don't get distressed or textured flooring if you have pets. they will scratch it up. instead get a smooth finish and keep the nails trimmed. Cheers!
You have spray paint in Canada?? I thought that stuff couldn't be imported! The videos are great! But help me learn more, spray paint?!?
Your beautiful ........We need to see real problems and how you handle them....like Silversoma said, it helps us being more comfortable in tackling a job...I've been debating with myself whether I should tackle installing my hardwood floor myself.
love the elevator music. can i get that download if i become a DIY member?
Appears engineered hardwood patterns do not repeat. With laminate I have 3 open boxes and rotate each piece from a different box to prevent a noticeable repeated pattern.
But are there differences between hardwood and engineered hardwood splines? Only splines I could find is thicker that my joint.
Could someone clarify content About white spot indicated by spray? 3 min
Too many forget this cheap and "life-saving" element when they install hardwood floors where there are living spaces underneath. (I know, this is a basement and can be the exception)
When you install hardwood floors directly on plywood, concrete, etc., then ALWAYS roll out a thin layer of insulation/sound reduction (one made for this purpose!) between the wood/concrete under the floor and the new floor, and always, always when you have living space underneath.
It will reduce the sound from every single step or any movement directly on the floor in the room AND the sounds from talking, singing, crying, the TV, or any sound/noise will be a lot louder for the people in the rooms underneath without this thin, cheap element.
I've tried to live in an apartment for a few months, where the family above me had (hard)wood floors, which were laid without any form of sound reduction, and never, ever will I be in that situation OR bring anyone else in that situation! (This family was so nice, all of them, and I never blamed them, but I just could not live with so much noise!)
At least NOT without doing all I can to reduce the sounds from the upstairs rooms with hardwood floors, and the best part is, it's a one-time very cheap investment, as (hard)wood floors can last for decades, also in families with active children, pets, etc. and they are very easy to clean, can look a lot better and for sure also are better for our health than wall to wall carpets.
What is the color of your flooring? Love it
I'm wondering why the walls were not painted before the flooring is installed???
How did you know I needed this dad? My wife and I both call you dad….. you have completely changed and made renovations a more graspable thing… thank you dad.
Happy to be of some help. Cheers!
Your wife calls Jeff daddy? Nice
@@saljablo2767 At least he has a wife, Sally 🤪