I worked on Guitar Amplifiers for 25 years I found that the major manufactures used hot glue to mount the power supply filter caps and using a heat gun on low or hair dryer often would soften the glue after the leads were snipped as you did. Enjoyable videos I miss the business. Best Regards
Haven't read all of the comments but ref the glue, what we used to do with general type repairs was spray the glue with Freezer then it simply cracks off.
Nice Video. You taught me something today as simple as taking the sheathing off of the cap!! had a duh moment but that is brilliant in the world of repair... No compromise in quality when it is necessary to do it right, our world needs more of that then replacing things. Great Work and Thanks for tips.. Cheers
Terry once again you have proven your magic touch ! I wish you were closer. buddy has one as well and it's a mess ,and been tampered with .It would be in your shop today lol great job .Dan w
Excellent video once again. An issue I've seen with these amps is intermittent crackling and popping noise, similar to bad plate resistors. It turned out to be bad/dirty effects loop jacks. I ended up replacing them, rather than cleaning and re-tensioning, so I wouldn't have to open the amp up again, or anytime soon hopefully.
Hello, Yes those jacks can be troublemakers. I agree, always replace rather than try to clean/reform. Marshalls have the same issue with the exposed contact Cliffjacks. TD
Another good video! These amps are very time consuming to work on. I've done quite a few already. One interesting thing was, I had one customer insist on only replacing the really bad caps, and not all electrolytics. Well, I think you know the outcome. After a $300 repair bill, the amp failed again 2 weeks later, and another $300 tab. Good for me, but not the customer. It doesn't pay to go cheap when having an amp repaired. he wasn't so lucky the second time since he lost the bias supply and cooked his output tubes. Now, he listens carefully when I speak LOL :) Keep 'em comin' Terry...always enjoy them! :)
Yes, I agree. The best thing on this configuration, is to ensure the boards do not get flexed the wrong way. A cracked board would be nasty. If I had lots of spare time, this amp would be a nice candidate for rewiring with a vintage eyelet board. TD
Nice repair. Many risings of the moon ago I had a Peavey Deuce. Because it had a little hum I decided that all that "goo" on the board had to go so I cleaned it up. Yeah... bad idea and more work than I bargained for. Apparently the goo was a dielectric of some kind. I don't remember what the tech at Peavey told me it was. Peavey repaired it for me and as I recall it wasn't very expensive. It's too bad I didn't have a D-Lab UA-cam channel (or internet) to watch back then. Much later I loaned it to someone for a week. I never saw it again. I heard he painted the case with day glo colors and, later, that he pawned it. 73 NE5U Mike
Since 2016 the peavey classic 30 is a completely new amp... now you have a STANDBY, a new SPEAKER and a one piece NEW PCB, it is now a much better amp than it was, and probably much more reliable !
Terry, they’re a freaking nightmare. Worst productive model in my lifetime since 1978. I have to give it ya, Buddy. You did a fantastic job. But if someone brings a similar amp? I’d say, sorry I’m not repairing these anymore….good on you Terry 👍👍🇮🇪
Great tip about slicing away the cover of the 86ed caps to get around the hardened glue. Terry what wine do recommend for working on filter caps: cabsav, shiraz or merlot? I find a pinot noir too delicate for it's bouquet to combine with solder resin...
I’m a 40 year pro guitarist who uses Peavey Classic 50’s. The 30 is not built anything like the 50. Thx for the inside look at the 30. Wont be getting that. USA 50’s are the best built circus board tube amps I’ve ever seen. I built point to point boutique amps with Mike Holland, Holland Amplifier so I don’t care for circus board amps but the USA made Peavey Classic 50 is an exception.
Thanks man. I was a bit taken back when I saw that 3 way circuit board. Turned out not as bad as I thought. The glue was the real issue. I hear these Classic 30's are fairly desirable. TD
Testing the amp with your scope and signal generator is a great idea. While everything's connected up, why not see what voltage the amp saturates at? It would be a great way of verifying that the amp can put it out its specified power.
It's good to see a man enjoying his work with "Valves" you are a real rare. Not only that , you sometimes work with ham radio valve sets......don't see to many CW valve radios coming into your shop....love cw mate. de Dennis vk4oc. Really enjoy your videos.
Excellent, thanks very much. Just a tip, a friend of mine who does repairs has a guitar track loop that he plugs in for signal so no need for a guitar in the way.
I acquired a Marshall JVM 410 combo. 100 watts. While no instrument was plugged into it, there was a loud pop. A hum existed afterwards, even with volume turned all the way down. I was told that it sounded as if it blew a capacitor. After seeing this video I am thinking they are right. The amp is only 3 years old and has only been played at low volumes, so I am dismayed that something like this would happen to an amp like a JVM. I am wondering if it would be over my head to attempt the repair. I have built a condenser mic from a kit before. So I have some experience soldering. I thought it was very insightful how you checked the cap in the video to find it was not the only faulty cap. My biggest concern would be removing the board and getting it back in. Sure wish you were in our neck of the woods! Where are you located? Thanks for the great video! Any tips appreciated! 🎸
One of these amps was the bane of my existence for several weeks. All high voltage filter caps got swapped, along with numerous coupling caps. The jumper wires linking the three boards are prone to fracture. The daisy chained heater configuration is ridiculous. When the client called to ask how it was going, he declined any further work when I detailed the time and parts count involved. He collected the cabinet and speaker, paid me for my time and parts and I've recycled the rest. The newer version of this model is better in terms of servicing.
D-lab Electronics I'm guessing you are referring to the power tubes, and I seem to recall you have a strong opinion about 6BQ5/EL84 equipped amplifiers. Anything over 300 volts on the plate bakes those tubes prematurely. I found a Russian-made EL84 that is rated for 400vdc. Works great in the Scott 299b I had to rebuild.
Great video Sir, as always,.. i just fixed my classic 50 last week,had dry joints on the speaker output connector at the pcb (2 post pins +& _).It had intermittent crackling sound.
Excellent video! Hey man i know you dont play guitar but i have a great idea that would probably help you to tell how a repaired amp is gonna sound. Get yourself an Electronic tuner or something like that and tune your guitar to open G. Then you could strum it just in open G!!
Great video. I paid a tech quite a bit to get rid of the humm on my classic 30 but it's still not completely gone. It's easy louder than on let's say a Princeton amp or even a hot rod deluxe... capacitors, transistors, caps, tubes were all replaced. Are fender amps just quieter in general and Peavey amps just inherently have more buzz?
Hello thanks so much for this video, really helpful. Would you mind listing the filter caps and letting us know where we can buy a complete set to replace. I need to take out all the innards to replace the R58 in a couple of these that I own (going to replace them with a 7W390ohm resistor so that they don't fry as easily when I throw 2 overdrive pedals and a fuzz at them). While I am in there I figure I might as well do the caps as well since both of my C30's are over 15 years.
When installing components on a PC board: Insert leads, bend and clip leads then solder so there is no stress on PC board traces when clipping leads. Mil spec assembly proc.
Jason Goodwin exactly why they build them like this. Not just shit peavey either. They build em all now a days to be throw aways. Production amps anyways. I gave up on them years ago. Traded a blues junior for a 1977 Traynor ygm3 handwired real amp years ago and havent looked back.
You can't really give them crap for glueing down the caps. You don't want them flapping around in the breeze. Those are heavy components and a combo amp is subjected to vibrations, so left unsecured, the caps would break the solder pads on the board, eventually. Securing them down in some way is definitely a good practice, although using zip-ties would probaby make it more serviceable.
@@johnnycampbell3281 this is definitely not planned obsolescence at all. It's planned reliability. If these capacitors we're not glued down, they would most definitely have failed solder connections. And guess what, it lasted until the components actually failed after 20 years of use! That is great. If Peavey didn't glue them down people would have bitched about poor quality. You just can't win with with some people. I've been performing component level servicing for over 30 years focusing heavily on audio equipment, and is this is normal practice. If someone can't handle removing capacitors from adhesive they need to not be working on this type of equipment. This amplifier is one of the best bang for buck and sounding combos ever and changing dried out old electrolytic capacitors is inevitable in ANY amplifier or electronic device, not just a Peavey amps. Old capacitors are like changing tires and batteries in old cars, they're wear items. No one has a 1967 or 1997 Camaro driving around on the original tires or battery. And none of them last 20 years either. Sure you can put hugely oversized overrated capacitors in there to last a little longer, but they will go bad and beer viewed as wasted money. Again you can't win. Nothing is wrong with circuit board amplifiers either. I proved golden ears types wrong so many times in blind listening tests, it's not even funny anymore...turret style boards fans are for those who can't handle properly servicing methods...
Good work ! I hate the construction of those C30 pv's . Had one in where the tube heaters were going dim intermittently. Found one of those board jumpers had a hairline crack in it .... from brand new as the amp had never been opened. Pv QC hmm.
Great video! I have this amp and the pre-amp tubes won’t even turn on, main ones work fine. Would this also be a similar issue? Thanks again for a great video
Very good, very very good thank you sir, you might have just saved me an awful lot of time I have a classic 50 410 that I'm going to replace a fan in now I'm going to replace all my caps thanks to you thank you sir.
Informative video! The Classic 30 runs very hot - wonder if that is a factor in capacitor failure? I've been placing a small table fan behind mine - the chassis feels a lot cooler and I'm hoping it will prolong the life of the components!
I have a USA-made Delta Blues. Trem circuit went out twice according to the original owner. The amp sounds really good but I dread ever trying to have it fixed. Skip Simmons services all my good amps and I wouldn't want to bother him the the DB. So I guess it is in fact a disposable amp.
Thumbs up, buddy! You got a like from me. I just landed a dead one from Craigslist, no power, quick flash of the power light then darkness. I already suspected power supply caps, and you video will guide me through the cap replacement. I copied this from your cap tests: 2x 47 uF 2x 2200 uF 3x 22 uF Also, you spoke highly of Mallory and F&T brands. Can you suggest a vendor who will take any order this smallr? Johnny Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.
If you're thinking of doing this cap job, you'll need to specify the caps' working voltage. 2 x 47uF @ 500V, 3 x 22uF @ 450V and 2 x 2200uF @ 50V. If you can, get 105 deg. C rated caps rather than 85 deg. C.
Terry, greetings from Argentina! Nice channel and lot of valuable information you're sharing. One question, makes any sense to measure those caps using a cap/esr meter to check their health? Or will readings be good beside caps state? Thanks and cheers with some good Malbec from Mendoza ;)
I own a delta blues which is basically the same amp as a classic 30 with built-in tremolo. The Reverb pan is extremely noisy and basically unusable unless at the most minimum setting. I put a new tank in and it still has the same issue. I already put a piece of cardboard on the base of the tank but it did not correct the issue, do you know of a fix? The problem is a rumbling and feedback that pollutes the tone. The issue is pretty well documented on the forums but I'm only asking in case you have worked on one and already know a way to resolve it. Anyway thank you for these informative videos they are very helpful. Have a great day.
Thanks a lot man! I found that my Peavey is humming but it's like the kind of hum you can hear at the end of your video. It's much louder than in my other amps. On clean settings the hum is about the level of my P90 hum - when I switch to the middle position (hum cancelling) you cannot tell the difference. I can hear that you still get a lot of hum after fixing caps. Is that normal thing in these?
No one would pay me what I would need to charge to do a job like that.If I was on a desert island and that was the only amp I had I'd do it,but otherwise I'd pass. Still I enjoyed your tenacity.
Good day from Ireland. Thanks for the great videos, just getting into valve amps and your videos are the business. Was hoping you might advise on a issue with a classic 30 I just got, first tube amp I’ve had. Question: when I turn the kids right down to zero a hum kicks in. When I turn them up again it goes away. It’s like a switch in that it’s instant and only happens when the knob is fully at zero. Any help would he appreciated. Cheers. Pete
What about the Peavey Classic VTX 212? How can you demonstrate how to get a better bass response from it? I have one and the only thing I don't like about it is the bottom end. Can I get a good chunky sound out of it?
They are a pain in the butt to get out. I have to take mine out again. This time I will do the caps also. The power tubes filament circuits are in series, one goes, they all go. #3 is doing it again. I will replace the socket this time. I had it fixed for a couple of years.
love your videoes :-) just made the same replacement on my Peavey classic 30 Black edition from 2000,- but i have problems with the reverb . There is a hum when i turn the knob higher than 2 and it is a new tank i bought just the other day . Do you know any pecific mod to change it to the better ?? Best regards from Denmark
Hi there, I saw your comment on this video from a couple of years back. I've just acquired a classic 30 & am experiencing the same problem- hum when reverb is turned up. I noticed it goes away when I have pedals in the effects loop. Was wondering if you found out what was causing it & how easy it is to fix? Thanks Matt
Hey man i love your videos. very helpful! Ive got a early early 90's classic 50 head and after playing for a while the amps volume cuts in and out. could this be tubes?
70's and 80's Solid State Peavey gear seems to be the stuff that lasts virtually forever. Back when they made the stuff in the states..... I have a a StudioPro that came to my shop... it just needed a bath inside and out. Post pot cleaning, it was ready to return to the owner. I have a vid of it on my channel.
Sir, please how do I remove that excessive cap electrolyte goop spill from the board, I bought a gallon of Isopropyl alcohol 99% (everything moderate was sold out "Covid" ) you made it look like a piece of cake, me no success. Thank you so much.
Where on earth are the bias test points for the Peavey classic 50, 212? according to the schematic in between R-49 and R-50. I was trying to get an idea watching you work on the Classic 30. problem is on the Classic 50 there is no component identifier at all. you know R-32 D-50 no print at all! I have seen this on boards from the 70'S but nothing this new. Help please
That was clever, peeling the cap labels. You should drop the word guitar from your titles, these are similar to any other amps, and having the word guitar may negatively affect the UA-cam algorithm.
Return a amp to its stock performance is got but limited to the original performance but that’s it no a classic type that’s great but a average or below is that only so making sound different but better is what players want , think about it ?
i have a delta blues that is having this same issue. i am not versed enough to try to do this kind of a repair on my own. how can i get in contact with you about repairs?
I have one of these on my bench right now! I got it fully disassembled, and decided to take a break until tomorrow. My issue is no sound, no output signal, and the tubes do not light up. Wouldn't have thought to slice the label though! Genuis! What type of input signal do you use from your generator, and what type of range on your scope? (if you dont mind me asking). Thanks for posting this!
Hey man, sounds like you may have a bad power transformer. My audio generator is an old Heathkit. Sinewave at approx 150mv, 1Khz Scope range varies depending on volume. Normally 5 volts per division. Good luck on the repair. TD
Thanks for the reply and encouragement! I was thinking it will either be OPT or bad EL84 since they are in series on this amp. I will pull the transformer shortly and test it with my variac
D-lab Electronics sorry for the delay! You nailed it Terry. I pulled the PT and there are only 2 leads on the primary. Checked for continuity, nope...primary was open. I put 100vac into it from my Variac and confirmed it was toast. Got a new PT from Peavey, except they have a new part number with 4 leads on the primary so you have to wire them in parallel for 120V. Thanks again Terry. PS: your vid is really saving my behind for trying to remember how to put this thing back together right now! Ha! Cheers, my fave youtube channel! -chris
Try tuning a guitar open instead of standard like a lapsteel to demonstrate the guitar signal sound. All you have to do is strum the strings, sounds good.
I ask for some help with my peavey classic 50 212 w efx, suddenly while i was playing it made a big noise and burned smell... After shutdown i realize the reverb was not working anymore.. I change the opap rc4558 and it started to working as before but i noticed that the signal from reverb has a little of distortion in the very high frequencies... If i unplug the reverb tank and i turn on the potentiometer the signal become dirtier... What can i do? Thank you in advance...
Maybe its me (probably) but 2019 and I'm going backwards!! I'm buying up old rack mounted gear for my studio and in general staying away from modern circuit boards and returning back to the old analogue/values and Grandad hard wired/capped antique silly stuff! Its a bugger getting old, but the alternative is Worse!!! ha ha! (can you turn the TV channel over for Grandad Dear as he has no idea!!) DAMN!
Ok great thanks. My classic 30 sounds fine, but when you turn it on , you hear some crackles in the beginning. What could be the issue? Once it warms up the crackles go away tho.
My guess would be a noisy tube. Take a wood pencil and tap on the tubes with no input, volume low. See if you can hear noise when a certain tube is tapped. If so, change that tube. Let me know. TD
Many thanks for the tip! I did what you suggested and 2 power tubes (first and last) would crackle a bit. Funny enough these 2 light up less than the other 2. Does it mean anything? I'm gonna replace them with some EL84s from another amp I've got here.
Funny how the main 47µf filters were toast.. The plate voltage on these amp are not that high at 332VDC according to the schematic and of the caps are rated at 450V/500V they should not be to stressed.. But I see no standby switch on this amp and with silicon diodes as rectifiers you might get a large voltage spike everytime you turn the amp on before the tube filaments are warmed up which could stress those input caps.. and maybe the screen cap as there is only a 400r resistor between plate and screen supply..
I’m trying to source parts to replace the caps. I would like to buy everything from one provider but they don’t carry the Nichicon 2200 uF 50V caps. They do have K+F 2200 uF 63V though. Can I use these?
hi , have a classic 30 with a noise problem .I replaced the tubes but the noise remains . when I turn the amp on its ok but after 5 mins a very loud buzzing noise starts .do you have any idea what this could be ?
Hello, my first guess is bad filter caps. Those amps are famous for that issue. Next, inspect the circuitboard for bad solder joints. This is a pain, since the amp reqs complete disassembly.
Yes, another great video! Just changed the caps on one of these things today, watched the video first though, never worked on a peavey before only fenders! Was kind of dreading it a bit, but the quality of the peavey circuit boards is better than the fender boards i've worked on! Thanks terry! These are (in my opinion) the best videos on youtube! ( I dont get out very much)
I worked on Guitar Amplifiers for 25 years I found that the major manufactures used hot glue to mount the power supply filter caps and using a heat gun on low or hair dryer often would soften the glue after the leads were snipped as you did. Enjoyable videos I miss the business. Best Regards
Haven't read all of the comments but ref the glue, what we used to do with general type repairs was spray the glue with Freezer then it simply cracks off.
Nice Video. You taught me something today as simple as taking the sheathing off of the cap!! had a duh moment but that is brilliant in the world of repair... No compromise in quality when it is necessary to do it right, our world needs more of that then replacing things. Great Work and Thanks for tips.. Cheers
Great vid on servicing the Peavey Classic 30. It won't be long before my C 30 is due a cap job...
Terry once again you have proven your magic touch ! I wish you were closer. buddy has one as well and it's a mess ,and been tampered with .It would be in your shop today lol great job .Dan w
Excellent video once again. An issue I've seen with these amps is intermittent crackling and popping noise, similar to bad plate resistors. It turned out to be bad/dirty effects loop jacks. I ended up replacing them, rather than cleaning and re-tensioning, so I wouldn't have to open the amp up again, or anytime soon hopefully.
Hello, Yes those jacks can be troublemakers. I agree, always replace rather than try to clean/reform. Marshalls have the same issue with the exposed contact Cliffjacks. TD
As soon as you said "In the shop today I have a Peavey Classic 30 amp" I said out loud "I'm sorry".
Another good video! These amps are very time consuming to work on. I've done quite a few already. One interesting thing was, I had one customer insist on only replacing the really bad caps, and not all electrolytics. Well, I think you know the outcome. After a $300 repair bill, the amp failed again 2 weeks later, and another $300 tab. Good for me, but not the customer. It doesn't pay to go cheap when having an amp repaired. he wasn't so lucky the second time since he lost the bias supply and cooked his output tubes. Now, he listens carefully when I speak LOL :) Keep 'em comin' Terry...always enjoy them! :)
Nice repair! My hackles were standing straight up when I saw those three circuit boards. I might have bailed on that one right there,. Nice Job!
Yes, I agree. The best thing on this configuration, is to ensure the boards do not get flexed the wrong way. A cracked board would be nasty. If I had lots of spare time, this amp would be a nice candidate for rewiring with a vintage eyelet board. TD
Nice repair. Many risings of the moon ago I had a Peavey Deuce. Because it had a little hum I decided that all that "goo" on the board had to go so I cleaned it up. Yeah... bad idea and more work than I bargained for. Apparently the goo was a dielectric of some kind. I don't remember what the tech at Peavey told me it was. Peavey repaired it for me and as I recall it wasn't very expensive. It's too bad I didn't have a D-Lab UA-cam channel (or internet) to watch back then.
Much later I loaned it to someone for a week. I never saw it again. I heard he painted the case with day glo colors and, later, that he pawned it. 73 NE5U Mike
Excellent! nice to see you back on the amps again.
Since 2016 the peavey classic 30 is a completely new amp... now you have a STANDBY, a new SPEAKER and a one piece NEW PCB, it is now a much better amp than it was, and probably much more reliable !
Terry, they’re a freaking nightmare. Worst productive model in my lifetime since 1978. I have to give it ya, Buddy. You did a fantastic job. But if someone brings a similar amp? I’d say, sorry I’m not repairing these anymore….good on you Terry 👍👍🇮🇪
Great tip about slicing away the cover of the 86ed caps to get around the hardened glue.
Terry what wine do recommend for working on filter caps: cabsav, shiraz or merlot? I find a pinot noir too delicate for it's bouquet to combine with solder resin...
I’m a 40 year pro guitarist who uses Peavey Classic 50’s. The 30 is not built anything like the 50. Thx for the inside look at the 30. Wont be getting that. USA 50’s are the best built circus board tube amps I’ve ever seen. I built point to point boutique amps with Mike Holland, Holland Amplifier so I don’t care for circus board amps but the USA made Peavey Classic 50 is an exception.
It's good to see Your experience and wisdom. And good vibes too ;) Cheers from Poland!
Another great repair and tips on replacing those caps. Good job!
Thanks man. I was a bit taken back when I saw that 3 way circuit board. Turned out not as bad as I thought. The glue was the real issue. I hear these Classic 30's are fairly desirable. TD
Thanks Terry, another great and informative video!
Nice to see you work on this peavey .great job.lots of usable info thanks .
Testing the amp with your scope and signal generator is a great idea. While everything's connected up, why not see what voltage the amp saturates at? It would be a great way of verifying that the amp can put it out its specified power.
It's good to see a man enjoying his work with "Valves" you are a real rare. Not only that , you sometimes work with ham radio valve sets......don't see to many CW valve radios coming into your shop....love cw mate. de Dennis vk4oc. Really enjoy your videos.
Dennis Peake
Excellent, thanks very much.
Just a tip, a friend of mine who does repairs has a guitar track loop that he plugs in for signal so no need for a guitar in the way.
I acquired a Marshall JVM 410 combo. 100 watts. While no instrument was plugged into it, there was a loud pop. A hum existed afterwards, even with volume turned all the way down. I was told that it sounded as if it blew a capacitor. After seeing this video I am thinking they are right. The amp is only 3 years old and has only been played at low volumes, so I am dismayed that something like this would happen to an amp like a JVM. I am wondering if it would be over my head to attempt the repair. I have built a condenser mic from a kit before. So I have some experience soldering. I thought it was very insightful how you checked the cap in the video to find it was not the only faulty cap. My biggest concern would be removing the board and getting it back in. Sure wish you were in our neck of the woods! Where are you located? Thanks for the great video! Any tips appreciated! 🎸
One of these amps was the bane of my existence for several weeks. All high voltage filter caps got swapped, along with numerous coupling caps. The jumper wires linking the three boards are prone to fracture. The daisy chained heater configuration is ridiculous. When the client called to ask how it was going, he declined any further work when I detailed the time and parts count involved. He collected the cabinet and speaker, paid me for my time and parts and I've recycled the rest.
The newer version of this model is better in terms of servicing.
Yes, they are a bear to work on. I have a 3rd one that just arrived. Hums, plus 1 tube goes warp drive. Should be fun.
D-lab Electronics
I'm guessing you are referring to the power tubes, and I seem to recall you have a strong opinion about 6BQ5/EL84 equipped amplifiers. Anything over 300 volts on the plate bakes those tubes prematurely. I found a Russian-made EL84 that is rated for 400vdc. Works great in the Scott 299b I had to rebuild.
Great video Sir, as always,.. i just fixed my classic 50 last week,had dry joints on the speaker output connector at the pcb (2 post pins +& _).It had intermittent crackling sound.
Excellent video! Hey man i know you dont play guitar but i have a great idea that would probably help you to tell how a repaired amp is gonna sound. Get yourself an Electronic tuner or something like that and tune your guitar to open G. Then you could strum it just in open G!!
Great video. I paid a tech quite a bit to get rid of the humm on my classic 30 but it's still not completely gone. It's easy louder than on let's say a Princeton amp or even a hot rod deluxe... capacitors, transistors, caps, tubes were all replaced. Are fender amps just quieter in general and Peavey amps just inherently have more buzz?
Hello thanks so much for this video, really helpful. Would you mind listing the filter caps and letting us know where we can buy a complete set to replace. I need to take out all the innards to replace the R58 in a couple of these that I own (going to replace them with a 7W390ohm resistor so that they don't fry as easily when I throw 2 overdrive pedals and a fuzz at them). While I am in there I figure I might as well do the caps as well since both of my C30's are over 15 years.
When installing components on a PC board: Insert leads, bend and clip leads then solder so there is no stress on PC board traces when clipping leads. Mil spec assembly proc.
Roger that Sir. I went to the Boeing High reliability soldering course back in 1986. 2 weeks of pure fun!
heavily glued in caps, crazy circuit board design, it's like they wanted you to throw it away when it goes bad or something
Jason Goodwin exactly why they build them like this. Not just shit peavey either. They build em all now a days to be throw aways. Production amps anyways. I gave up on them years ago. Traded a blues junior for a 1977 Traynor ygm3 handwired real amp years ago and havent looked back.
You can't really give them crap for glueing down the caps. You don't want them flapping around in the breeze. Those are heavy components and a combo amp is subjected to vibrations, so left unsecured, the caps would break the solder pads on the board, eventually.
Securing them down in some way is definitely a good practice, although using zip-ties would probaby make it more serviceable.
Its a feature called planned obsolescence. Designed to fail or you have to buy a new one. Kind of like American cars and appliances.
@@johnnycampbell3281 this is definitely not planned obsolescence at all. It's planned reliability. If these capacitors we're not glued down, they would most definitely have failed solder connections. And guess what, it lasted until the components actually failed after 20 years of use! That is great. If Peavey didn't glue them down people would have bitched about poor quality. You just can't win with with some people. I've been performing component level servicing for over 30 years focusing heavily on audio equipment, and is this is normal practice. If someone can't handle removing capacitors from adhesive they need to not be working on this type of equipment. This amplifier is one of the best bang for buck and sounding combos ever and changing dried out old electrolytic capacitors is inevitable in ANY amplifier or electronic device, not just a Peavey amps. Old capacitors are like changing tires and batteries in old cars, they're wear items. No one has a 1967 or 1997 Camaro driving around on the original tires or battery. And none of them last 20 years either. Sure you can put hugely oversized overrated capacitors in there to last a little longer, but they will go bad and beer viewed as wasted money. Again you can't win. Nothing is wrong with circuit board amplifiers either. I proved golden ears types wrong so many times in blind listening tests, it's not even funny anymore...turret style boards fans are for those who can't handle properly servicing methods...
you just changed my tinkering life with the jumper cap!
Your channel is fascinating as someone trying to work on his own guitar equipment....can't wait till I over extend myself and break something haha
Good work ! I hate the construction of those C30 pv's . Had one in where the tube heaters were going dim intermittently. Found one of those board jumpers had a hairline crack in it .... from brand new as the amp had never been opened. Pv QC hmm.
Great video! I have this amp and the pre-amp tubes won’t even turn on, main ones work fine. Would this also be a similar issue? Thanks again for a great video
Very good, very very good thank you sir, you might have just saved me an awful lot of time I have a classic 50 410 that I'm going to replace a fan in now I'm going to replace all my caps thanks to you thank you sir.
Informative video! The Classic 30 runs very hot - wonder if that is a factor in capacitor failure? I've been placing a small table fan behind mine - the chassis feels a lot cooler and I'm hoping it will prolong the life of the components!
Electrolytic caps do not like heat. Running them cooler will extend their working life.
I have a USA-made Delta Blues. Trem circuit went out twice according to the original owner. The amp sounds really good but I dread ever trying to have it fixed. Skip Simmons services all my good amps and I wouldn't want to bother him the the DB. So I guess it is in fact a disposable amp.
Thumbs up, buddy! You got a like from me. I just landed a dead one from Craigslist, no power, quick flash of the power light then darkness. I already suspected power supply caps, and you video will guide me through the cap replacement.
I copied this from your cap tests:
2x 47 uF
2x 2200 uF
3x 22 uF
Also, you spoke highly of Mallory and F&T brands.
Can you suggest a vendor who will take any order this smallr?
Johnny
Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.
Hello, Cool deal on the amp find. Thanks for the kind words. Try the Tubedepot.com for the caps. They are great to deal with. Good luck on the project
If you're thinking of doing this cap job, you'll need to specify the caps' working voltage. 2 x 47uF @ 500V, 3 x 22uF @ 450V and 2 x 2200uF @ 50V. If you can, get 105 deg. C rated caps rather than 85 deg. C.
thank you so much i managed to get this beauty working again
well done Sir. an excellent clip, best wishes from NZ
Terry, greetings from Argentina! Nice channel and lot of valuable information you're sharing. One question, makes any sense to measure those caps using a cap/esr meter to check their health? Or will readings be good beside caps state? Thanks and cheers with some good Malbec from Mendoza ;)
Great video Terry
You actually played an A11 chord there Terry. :-)
It doesn't matter that I know better-when I first read the video title I thought someone had an amp with 30 EL84s and I got ecxited.
thank you for the upload, was very helpful, had the same problem in my amp and it works like a charm now.
I own a delta blues which is basically the same amp as a classic 30 with built-in tremolo. The Reverb pan is extremely noisy and basically unusable unless at the most minimum setting. I put a new tank in and it still has the same issue. I already put a piece of cardboard on the base of the tank but it did not correct the issue, do you know of a fix? The problem is a rumbling and feedback that pollutes the tone. The issue is pretty well documented on the forums but I'm only asking in case you have worked on one and already know a way to resolve it. Anyway thank you for these informative videos they are very helpful. Have a great day.
Hello, have you swapped out the pre-amp and reverb tubes? Many of these reissue amps came with substandard tubes, which were microphonic.
Yes sir, That has already been done, still has the same issue.
Have you ohmed out the cables and checked the reverb input coils?
I think it's as much that the Classic 30 runs really hot as it is that the caps aren't the best. And like ya said, 20 years ain't bad.
Thanks a lot man! I found that my Peavey is humming but it's like the kind of hum you can hear at the end of your video. It's much louder than in my other amps. On clean settings the hum is about the level of my P90 hum - when I switch to the middle position (hum cancelling) you cannot tell the difference. I can hear that you still get a lot of hum after fixing caps. Is that normal thing in these?
Does it hum with nothing plugged into the amp's input?
No one would pay me what I would need to charge to do a job like that.If I was on a desert island and that was the only amp I had I'd do it,but otherwise I'd pass. Still I enjoyed your tenacity.
Wow, 20 years got the money's worth. Good for Peavey
thanks! Just picked up a minty "closet queen" 50 watter of the same line and this will help!
Good day from Ireland. Thanks for the great videos, just getting into valve amps and your videos are the business. Was hoping you might advise on a issue with a classic 30 I just got, first tube amp I’ve had. Question: when I turn the kids right down to zero a hum kicks in. When I turn them up again it goes away. It’s like a switch in that it’s instant and only happens when the knob is fully at zero. Any help would he appreciated. Cheers. Pete
Great video - but what did you use to remove the glued-on capacitor jackets? I've got the same amp and I'd like to replace the caps.
Thanks for the video - super helpful as I'm up against the same job. What kind of epoxy do you use to glue down the new caps?
What's your belief on the orange drop capacitor is it any better than the standard capacitors the question is pertaining to a stereo to amplifier
What about the Peavey Classic VTX 212? How can you demonstrate how to get a better bass response from it? I have one and the only thing I don't like about it is the bottom end. Can I get a good chunky sound out of it?
Masterful job!
you are an absolute genius my friend!
Great vid, good job! Enjoy your stuff, ultra informative.! Thanks for taking the time for fellow ampoholics!
Thanks for the video, I'm starting mine soon
They are a pain in the butt to get out. I have to take mine out again. This time I will do the caps also. The power tubes filament circuits are in series, one goes, they all go. #3 is doing it again. I will replace the socket this time. I had it fixed for a couple of years.
If I was buying a used one, would I hear this hum with just the amp turned on? Or would I need an instrument plugged in? Thank you
love your videoes :-) just made the same replacement on my Peavey classic 30 Black edition from 2000,- but i have problems with the reverb . There is a hum when i turn the knob higher than 2 and it is a new tank i bought just the other day . Do you know any pecific mod to change it to the better ?? Best regards from Denmark
Hi there, I saw your comment on this video from a couple of years back. I've just acquired a classic 30 & am experiencing the same problem- hum when reverb is turned up. I noticed it goes away when I have pedals in the effects loop. Was wondering if you found out what was causing it & how easy it is to fix?
Thanks Matt
Hey man i love your videos. very helpful! Ive got a early early 90's classic 50 head and after playing for a while the amps volume cuts in and out. could this be tubes?
Hello, That sounds more like a bad solder joint. Give her a good inspection for cracks/overheated joints
70's and 80's Solid State Peavey gear seems to be the stuff that lasts virtually forever. Back when they made the stuff in the states.....
I have a a StudioPro that came to my shop... it just needed a bath inside and out. Post pot cleaning, it was ready to return to the owner. I have a vid of it on my channel.
Sir, please how do I remove that excessive cap electrolyte goop spill from the board, I bought a gallon of Isopropyl alcohol 99% (everything moderate was sold out "Covid" ) you made it look like a piece of cake, me no success. Thank you so much.
Thanks for this Video - This has just given me an insight on how bad Peavey make their amps with rubbish circuit board technology and cheap parts.
Hey D-Labs, would you have a line on a replacement output transformer for a Classic 30? Thanks - Luther
Can you tell me please where do you buy all the caps in this vid? I have the same amp with the same problem... but I don't know about good caps..
Where on earth are the bias test points for the Peavey classic 50, 212? according to the schematic in between R-49 and R-50. I was trying to get an idea watching you work on the Classic 30. problem is on the Classic 50 there is no component identifier at all. you know R-32 D-50 no print at all! I have seen this on boards from the 70'S but nothing this new. Help please
Do you have a source you like for F and T capacitors?
Thank you kindly for your advice.
That was clever, peeling the cap labels. You should drop the word guitar from your titles, these are similar to any other amps, and having the word guitar may negatively affect the UA-cam algorithm.
Return a amp to its stock performance is got but limited to the original performance but that’s it no a classic type that’s great but a average or below is that only so making sound different but better is what players want , think about it ?
i have a delta blues that is having this same issue. i am not versed enough to try to do this kind of a repair on my own. how can i get in contact with you about repairs?
I have one of these on my bench right now! I got it fully disassembled, and decided to take a break until tomorrow. My issue is no sound, no output signal, and the tubes do not light up. Wouldn't have thought to slice the label though! Genuis!
What type of input signal do you use from your generator, and what type of range on your scope? (if you dont mind me asking).
Thanks for posting this!
Hey man, sounds like you may have a bad power transformer.
My audio generator is an old Heathkit. Sinewave at approx 150mv, 1Khz
Scope range varies depending on volume. Normally 5 volts per division.
Good luck on the repair.
TD
Thanks for the reply and encouragement! I was thinking it will either be OPT or bad EL84 since they are in series on this amp. I will pull the transformer shortly and test it with my variac
D-lab Electronics sorry for the delay! You nailed it Terry. I pulled the PT and there are only 2 leads on the primary. Checked for continuity, nope...primary was open. I put 100vac into it from my Variac and confirmed it was toast. Got a new PT from Peavey, except they have a new part number with 4 leads on the primary so you have to wire them in parallel for 120V. Thanks again Terry. PS: your vid is really saving my behind for trying to remember how to put this thing back together right now! Ha! Cheers, my fave youtube channel! -chris
Try tuning a guitar open instead of standard like a lapsteel to demonstrate the guitar signal sound. All you have to do is strum the strings, sounds good.
I ask for some help with my peavey classic 50 212 w efx, suddenly while i was playing it made a big noise and burned smell... After shutdown i realize the reverb was not working anymore.. I change the opap rc4558 and it started to working as before but i noticed that the signal from reverb has a little of distortion in the very high frequencies... If i unplug the reverb tank and i turn on the potentiometer the signal become dirtier... What can i do? Thank you in advance...
What glue is used in these amps, thank you?
Thanks for the video and for the advice.
Maybe its me (probably) but 2019 and I'm going backwards!! I'm buying up old rack mounted gear for my studio and in general staying away from modern circuit boards and returning back to the old analogue/values and Grandad hard wired/capped antique silly stuff! Its a bugger getting old, but the alternative is Worse!!! ha ha! (can you turn the TV channel over for Grandad Dear as he has no idea!!) DAMN!
Thanks . Great job my friend
Where you located I got the same amp same problem?
hi, how many caps did you change? values? - thanks in advance
Good job! How much does a service like this one cost? Thanks
Complete with parts, approx $200
Ok great thanks. My classic 30 sounds fine, but when you turn it on , you hear some crackles in the beginning. What could be the issue? Once it warms up the crackles go away tho.
My guess would be a noisy tube. Take a wood pencil and tap on the tubes with no input, volume low. See if you can hear noise when a certain tube is tapped. If so, change that tube. Let me know. TD
Many thanks for the tip!
I did what you suggested and 2 power tubes (first and last) would crackle a bit. Funny enough these 2 light up less than the other 2. Does it mean anything? I'm gonna replace them with some EL84s from another amp I've got here.
Good Job Sir...
Funny how the main 47µf filters were toast.. The plate voltage on these amp are not that high at 332VDC according to the schematic and of the caps are rated at 450V/500V they should not be to stressed.. But I see no standby switch on this amp and with silicon diodes as rectifiers you might get a large voltage spike everytime you turn the amp on before the tube filaments are warmed up which could stress those input caps.. and maybe the screen cap as there is only a 400r resistor between plate and screen supply..
I’m trying to source parts to replace the caps. I would like to buy everything from one provider but they don’t carry the Nichicon 2200 uF 50V caps. They do have K+F 2200 uF 63V though. Can I use these?
If they physically fit, yes.
what provider you have to buy the capacitors?
Really useful tips
Great one! Thank you.
Nice Job !
Where are you located? I'm looking for a tech who's familiar with these amps.
What's your opinion on NTE Caps?
Have not used them
Is the 22
the 47
and the 2200
all 500 v ???
Can you tell me please,
I have the same problem with the same amp?
He says one is a 50 volt
hi , have a classic 30 with a noise problem .I replaced the tubes but the noise remains . when I turn the amp on its ok but after 5 mins a very loud buzzing noise starts .do you have any idea what this could be ?
Hello, my first guess is bad filter caps. Those amps are famous for that issue.
Next, inspect the circuitboard for bad solder joints. This is a pain, since the amp reqs complete disassembly.
ok thank you for your swift reply , i`ll try this now i know which direction im heading. great videos keep them coming .
many tech change the 2 resistors came very hot !
but very god job done ;)
Good Job DLabs 😎
why did you not test the caps,before charging time,and materials,to replace them?
The amp came to the shop for a cap job. No need to test when it was previously agreed. Kind of like taking your car in for new tires.
understood.
like your work.
Terry, what adhesive are you using. Do you ever use hot glue? And yes, another kick butt tutorial!
Thank you my friend. I use E6000 clear adhesive. It will glue anything and does not corrode. Thanks for your support.
I thank you, Terry, for your time, generous and humorous sharing of your experience! God bless you, Joe
Yes, another great video! Just changed the caps on one of these things today, watched the video first though, never worked on a peavey before only fenders! Was kind of dreading it a bit, but the quality of the peavey circuit boards is better than the fender boards i've worked on! Thanks terry! These are (in my opinion) the best videos on youtube! ( I dont get out very much)
Great job!