@@genemounce8302honestly it's fairly easy to do yourself if you're diligent and have at least 1 friend that'll put in some hours, going through my c5 drivetrain in my garage right now. UA-cam + Service Manual + CorvetteForum has gotten me this far without too many hang ups. Pull the trigger lol the c5 is an amazing car even with stock z06 equipment (I have a base coupe w/ z06 suspension I got in a partout)
So glad I found your videos! They have been a treasure trove of information . Thank you and keep up the good work , and I am spreading the word on your videos.
You're the go to Guy. I will Subscribe and will definitely will appreciate your expertise and advice. For now on You'll going to be regarded as "The Most Awesome and Knowledgeable Corvette expert on the internet. Thank You for sharing.
I know that I have said this before, but thank you for the information I own a 2002 C5 and with your important information I check everything that you caution us about. It’s so much better to stay on top of things and keep them from becoming a large problem.
I have learned so much about corvettes from you. I used your videos to educate myself before ultimately buying an 07 C6 with 53,000kms (33,500 miles). I have a few issues to deal with (wobbling harmonic balancer for one) but I would like to change the driveshaft couplers simply based on age. I’ll be looking to you for couplers when the time comes, I won’t be letting anyone put in the GM couplers in my car. Thanks for all you share and you great ability to educate.
My drive train started locking up shortly after the shop installed a new clutch and driveshaft. The symptoms seemed like a transmission failure at first because the transmission was low on fluid so we replaced the transmission. After the car was re-assembled the drive line locked up again on the test drive. Now that I've seen this video it's clear that we should have disassembled and inspected the torque tube before re-assembling the car. We're pulling the car apart again and this time we'll focus on the torque tube. Thanks for another great video. This stuff is helpful!
We found that one of the rear coupler bolts came lose and bounced around the torque tube and destroyed my new DSS drive shaft. The bolt jammed in several locations and cut deep grooves in the drive shaft. The bolts were new the threads were oily. The tech apparently didn't bother to degrease the flange and may not have torqued the bolts to spec.
One important thing to also consider in re-building the torque tube is that the thing needs to be balanced, or you will wind up tearing it all apart again soon. That is one of the reasons that the dealers, and drive shaft shops want you to buy a whole new torque tube. They dont want that liability, and also dont have a machine to balance the thing. (one drive shaft shop told me there is a machine for balancing these, but it is not economical for them to buy it, for the occassional corvette that will show up.) I just got my torque tube replaced by a great corvette shop. The part cost $2237. and the labor was $1900. But I have the peace of mind knowing the whole assembly was properly assembled and balanced at the factory. And the peace of mind knowing the whole repair was done right. Lots of things that can go very wrong when removing and replacing this part. i got lucky and found a shop that has done these many times. They got this job done and also harmonic balancer replaced in a day and a half. New part took a couple weeks on special order from gm. My 2003 corvette had 206,000 miles on it, torque tube in real bad shape. Just dis-assembled old tube, and couplers were completely shredded with piles of dust, and metal shavings. Very loud. Now car runs like brand new.
Removing the torque tube is no joke. It is very involved.$1300-$1500 is affordable unless you really want to do it yourself. It will involve removing the rear subassembly and plenty of Hight on your lift. There are many jobs that are easy on some cars that are not so easy on the C5. For example on my SS Camaro, I can drop the driveshaft and Transmission it's an easy couple hours BUT, on the C5 Oh my freaking GOD. Not impossible but just a PITA but, when you crank it up and do a few pulls, love it.
Thank you Lyle!!!!! I had no idea how the torqu tube actually went together. How much do you think a rebuild labor should be from a competent corvette shop?
Hey Lyle, Great video. What do you recommend for torque tube rebuilds? Do it every 100k? Do it only when a noise is present? Do it every clutch change? Or just inspect, monitor and replace as necessary? Thanks man.
Thank you. I'm having this exact issue right now. A fool called himself replacing the torque tube bushings when all the car needed was the transmission flush do to the notorious c7 shudder. 1 month later now the car sounds like all hell busting loose under the shifter. He made this problem and it's about to be trouble. Pray for him and me 😠
This is exactly what happens when you don't use the two sourced M10x1.50x55mm bearing retaining bolts torqued to 37ft-lbs as per the FSM procedure to hold the bearing into place prior to torque tube installation. Also if you try forcing the torque tube assembly into the engine without ensuring the prop shaft splines are aligned and level you will push this bearing back into the tube and this will be the result. It's important never to use ratchet straps or longer installation bolts to force TT installation. The shaft clamp on Automatic models also needs to be loosened completely to ensure easy shaft installation. The TT should install with rocking and steady pressure ONLY. Having a second person loop a piece of rope around the top of the splined shaft and jiggling the rope up and down with both hands also helps assist the shaft into the engine. Once the TT gets almost all the way to the front you need to inspect the front bearing to ensure it hasn't sunk back into the tube or you have to remove the entire sub assembly again, start the assembly process from scratch to reset the front bearing so it stays flush. Again it's essential retaining bolts are used and torqued to 37ft,lb and that the bearing stays flush. Once the TT is far enough in for the original bolts to thread in you can use them to assist the TT for final installation. Once the TT is installed and flush you can then remove the bearing retaining bolts from the TT and swap the original factory hex bolts back in their place. DO not tighten the shaft clamp as it's done at the very last step of the job. While fastening the 4 rear subassembly nuts at the rear DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS or you can break the bolt anchors and the only way to fix that is drill holes in your trunk to replace them. When everything is back together run the engine for 10 minutes, this allows the prop shaft to center in the hub (you will hear an odd noise from the clamp riding on the shaft) then turn the car off, rotate the clamp back down to access the hex bolt head and tighten to 96ft/lbs. Replace the access cover and your done.
I can totally see how someone pulling the torque tube tight to the tranny with longer bolts (as you mention) could cause this! Those plastic spline aligning tools that come with most clutches are garbage. I used my actual torque tube input shaft held when tightening down my torque tube and then during the final installation the torque tube slid in like butter. Not sure what is wrong with the plastic ones (they appear like a replica) but are NOT! I am not recalling the bearing retaining bolts you are mentioning. Are they for auto tranny onlys or the earlier torque tube that does not use the GIANT snap ring?
@@Toys4Life The front bearing retaining bolts are required for all torque tube versions and need to be sourced separately, (not dealer provided) and replace the two hex plug bolts located at the front of the torque tube during TT installation. Most people don't know they are required as the FSM is very vague about this but this is exactly what can happen if you fail to use them.
@@c-shepard Thank you for the response but I am still not understanding what bolts you are referring to at the front of the TT. 3:02 of the video shows the front of the TT housing and I dont see them. Is there a point in your video where you can see them. I have 3000 hard miles on mine now (and multiple 11 second 130 MPH passes) so I am sure I am fine - but I would really like to know what bolts you are referring to. If I did anything wrong, I will pull my TT out and fix it. Thanks.
@@Toys4Life The bolts install on the other side of that flange. It's not obvious but they are definitely there. Two gold colored galvanized allen bolts. You remove those and put longer bolts in to lock the bearing during installation then put the originals back in once the TT is installed.
Hey Lyle, I just had the Chevrolet Dealership change the trans. pan because the original on my 2008 Standard Corvette was starting to rust badly. After bringing the car home and starting it on a cold start (about 67 degree) a slapping noise came from the rear end. I shifted it into reverse and it still made that clunk sound. Shifted back into drive and it clunked again. It sounds like a universal joint going bad to me. Could it be that when the mechanic loosened the trans. to raise it up to take off the rusted oil pan that when it was lowered back down and tightened that it some how moved back and away from the original position? Would the dealership be liable for any damage or mis-alignment of the tube? I'm just beside myself and don't know what to think or how to move forward at this point.
I'm worried about my differential failing in the middle of a high-speed corner or at the end of the straightaway. Can differential c's? Or do they just blow themselves apart and you lose drive?
Thanks for another great video. I rebuilt the torque tube in my 525 RWHP 03 C5 back in May and after watching this, you have me wondering if it is possible I did anything wrong. I wonder how they would have gotten the giant snap ring (in the rear) back in if the front bearing was not seated properly? What is the correct procedure for ensuring the bearing that resides on the front shaft (shaft that goes into the clutch disk) gets pressed into the front of the torque tube housing properly and stays there - other than visually inspecting the front after assembly to visually confirm it is fully seated?
I had a 2014 C7 and I was having to get the torque tube replaced about every 5,000 miles. It was so bad that GM extended the bumper to bumper warranty up to 60k miles. According to the dealership the replacement was about $8k. I sold the car at 58,000 miles. ;-)
So you might want to mention about setting the preload when installing the input shaft on the flex plate . If you don't push back on on the crank when installing it ,the torque tube can push on the thrust bearing and ruin it and now you're talking about doing a crank shaft in the engine
sure wish you livedin Northern California you would be my go to guy I'm a new owner of a 2001 C5 corvette I boughtthis year after watching your channel its really clean with low miles but you always have great information, by the way can I just replace my headlight bulbs for better brightness or do I have to buy a hole assembly
You can absolutley replace the bulbs with updated units without any issues. You may want to consider changing over to LED bulbs, too. Just make sure to get good quality , no matter what you choose. Lyle
Please make a video that shows how to use the tech 2 scanner to delete the 80 mph light on a 2004 c5 corvette with f55 system. The 2004 with f55 is the only year no one can get the 80 mph message to go away .all the other messages go away but not that one.can some one please help me with this problem thank you.
@@marblox9300 i love the c3s but the reason why i want a c5 2001-2002 is because itll be easier to fix if it breaks down and parts will be cheaper and easier. Also more videos on c5s
Between the torque tube and harmonic balancer - on specifically the C5-C6 it makes me weary to think of purchasing a corvette as the claim of "one of the most reliable cars" seems to be slightly skewed. I only say this due to these being the most common complaints I read about and some of the most costly repairs - Is there a model year that, mechanically wont drain my bank account with repairs because a manufacturer used faulty parts during the build??
another great video and very informative. dont have any noise or issues with my 700 rwhp c5 z06. still wonder if I should just replace the torque tube bushings and rubber coupler. wonder how much that would be in a perfectly running car. supercharged of course.
I have no experience with the ECS Tamer. For the power you are making, it certainly couldn't hurt. I would also focus on the engine and diff mounts and solidifying those points at the same time. Lyle
Sir thanks for the video. I have an rattle sound in lower rpm. I don’t know if it’s that part on your video or the torque tube . Strange enough it makes sound only on lower rpm so when I hit the paddle a little bit , it disappears. It’s an automatic and btw when I drive the car it’s oke and also shifts very good without a noise
You will need to buy the rebuilt driveshaft assembly as a whole. Most Chevy dealers have them on the shelf at this point, as this problem is becoming very prevalent. Lyle
I live in Southern California and I have a 2001 C5 convertible that I bought last year. It’s in really great shape. It seems like the corvette’s drive train is so unique that it would be better to take it to a corvette specific shop. There are a few in my area. Would you agree that it’s the best thing to do? Luckily I don’t have any issues with it. It has 85k miles and manual transmission. Some maintenance items I’m looking forward to doing myself. Drive train doesn’t look like one of them.
Dan, you definitely want to entrust drivetrain work to a shop that has lots of experience with these cars. You may have better luck at a shop that works on road racing cars than you would at a "normal" mechanic. There aren't many Corvette specialists left in CA, for a myriad of reasons, but if I can help you locate one, I will. Lyle :)
IT can, but the owner would need a lift and a lot of shop equipment unless he was doing it on his back, which is zero fun. You can bring us the car or the torque tube by itself for a rebuild. We are located in South Sarasota off of Clark Road (Exit 205 on I-75). Lyle
Great video... I just didn't understand what they did wrong... did the bearing not get seated all the way? Did they not install the snap ring behind the slinger? I just can't see what could go wrong as long as the snap rings are all installed properly... I just rebuilt my torque tube, just wanting to know exactly what this person did wrong...
My guess is that the shop didn't know to loosen the collar at the flexplate to allow the input shaft at the front to slide into position. They forced it in, which in turn pushed the entire assembly rearward. Lyle
Simple--as the rubber couplers degrade and loosen, the entire driveshaft becomes a bit of a jumping rope--thus the oscillation. In a solid (un-worn) unit, there is no oscillation for the reason you state. Lyle
@@cscorvetteify Ah- yeah, ok…not the splined shaft but the driveshaft at the coupler. Had something similar happen on an ltalian car (make name withheld to avoid embarrassment) many years ago, Excellent program, by the way. You answer questions by providing information other UA-camrs skip over.👍🏻
@@marksavage8871 Thank you! Detail is important, and doing nothing but working on Corvettes provides us with a unique familiarity with the details. :) Lyle
Pressing in new bearing is considered a rebuild on the torque-tube? It seems as if the driveshaft contains most of the replaceable parts. Or is this just a matter of terminology?
A torque tube rebuild consists of removing the driveshaft assembly from the tube itself, replacing the bearings/o-ring seals/couplers and then seating the assembly back into the proper mounting points in the tube. The main variable is that a bad driveshaft can "hog out" the bearing mounting surfaces in the tube itself and render it unusable. Lyle :)
Just got a 2014 stingray Auto z51. The rattle noise started at 1500 rmps to 2000 and stops. Not existent in idle and car runs normal. Chevy dealer cant tell what it is and wants me to pay for strip down for diagnosis. Help please. I have extended warranty that wants a diagnosis and work but no exploratory surgery cost.
Unfortunately, it sounds like the torque tube couplers are beginning to fail. The only way to know this is to disassemble the car and then knock apart the torque tube itself. Talk to your dealer about how they can bill you out on this task--the stripdown will most likely result in repairs covered by your warranty, so the only way that you should end up with $$ out of pocket is if the torque tube isn't the issue and they reassemble the drivetrain without performing repairs. I think this is extremely unlikely--2014's have the most prevalent T. Tube issues due to their age. Lyle
Man I just picked of the 14 sting, 150 dollars Diagnose Torque Tube and Zurich Extended not covered on my 4k warranty plan. Lyle can you rebuild this for me? I dont have the 6 grand their asking. @@lyleaulwurm9486
DUDE, that's what's up. My car made/makes noise and rattles the stick shift. Trans shop changed clutch. Pilot bearing toast. New motor later still rattles
@@9090ruby Not necessarily, but I can't guess further with any certainty. There is no way to check the couplers without disassembling the torque tube, unfortunately.
Because the transmission and differential/posi are mounted in the rear. Using a torque tube allows for a solid mounting of the rear components via the solid mount to the engine. There is still some side to side twisting movement due to motor mount flex and flexing of the rear diff/tranny mount. Allows the car to have the engine back further without limiting driver/passenger footwell area too much in an effort to get more weight on the rear tires for handling and traction (acceleration). Overall a good design IMO.
@@Toys4Life This is correct. The Corvette uses a transaxle, which is a stressed component with the chassis. Something has to flex between the motor and the transaxle. This wear is really enhance by people dragging Corvettes, which I never understand. If you want a dragster, buy a dragster.
This video is total BS. That's 100% the wrong diagnosis. I watched this video, got concerned about my torque tube, yanked it out only to find out that what you claim happened is completely impossible. The front bearing IS NOT A PRESS FIT. There's even a rubber o-ring in the bore to help stabilize the bearing as it just slides into place from the back. . What really happened: They didn't get the splines lined up properly initially and pushed the shaft into the tube during assembly to the engine. It also appears they didn't put the hard plastic centering collar/spacers in the rear giubo as the spacer prevents ANY compressive axial load on the bushing. This video is loaded with false information.
@@cscorvetteify I didn't find it useful because it caused me to waste hours of my life believing that I had made a mistake that can't be made. You can't squish the giubo into an S shape or even shorten the length of the shaft unless you forget to install the plastic centering spacer. The shaft is far too rigid with the spacer to do anything that you claim happened. Also that front bearing is not a press fit as you claim. Those are the facts. I'm sorry you can't realize that. I've have found other videos you have made useful, like the seat repair, and I'm thankful for them. This one, however, is simply not true.
@@GetaDomTune I will ask my lead tech. We have done over 200 of these in-house without failure, so I'm curious to deiscover where we / I have gotten it wrong in the video. Appreciate your feedback. Lyle :)
Your videos have provided the corvette community with invaluable information, very grateful, thank you Lyle and C&S Corvettes.
Yes Thank you also
I dont even own a Vette any longer yet still find myself watching every video this channel produces. Pure gold....
This video has officially ended my search for a preowned C7.
lol, slowly losing interest in the C5Z06 myself. .
Same here
I’ve owned atleast 20 vettes never once had any of these issues. Don’t let a worst case scenario keep you from enjoying life with a vette!
@@genemounce8302honestly it's fairly easy to do yourself if you're diligent and have at least 1 friend that'll put in some hours, going through my c5 drivetrain in my garage right now. UA-cam + Service Manual + CorvetteForum has gotten me this far without too many hang ups. Pull the trigger lol the c5 is an amazing car even with stock z06 equipment (I have a base coupe w/ z06 suspension I got in a partout)
So glad I found your videos! They have been a treasure trove of information . Thank you and keep up the good work , and I am spreading the word on your videos.
Thanks Lyle! I'll be vacationing in Siesta Key next April, and will be sure to stop by and say hello.
Perfect advice and well explained. Thank you.
You're the go to Guy. I will Subscribe and will definitely will appreciate your expertise and advice.
For now on You'll going to be regarded as "The Most Awesome and Knowledgeable Corvette expert on the internet.
Thank You for sharing.
I know that I have said this before, but thank you for the information I own a 2002 C5 and with your important information I check everything that you caution us about. It’s so much better to stay on top of things and keep them from becoming a large problem.
As always Lyle,very good info.
I have learned so much about corvettes from you. I used your videos to educate myself before ultimately buying an 07 C6 with 53,000kms (33,500 miles). I have a few issues to deal with (wobbling harmonic balancer for one) but I would like to change the driveshaft couplers simply based on age. I’ll be looking to you for couplers when the time comes, I won’t be letting anyone put in the GM couplers in my car. Thanks for all you share and you great ability to educate.
Thank you for the education.
OMG, I had no idea! Thank you C&S!
Always informative!!
Thanks for the info/help bro!!👍
Wow...wealth of knowledge. Looking for C5.
Thank you.
Great vid! Straight to the point, examples of good and bad. No unnessary BS.
Thank you, Ron! We try very hard to avoid any BS--at any time. Lyle
Great job on the informative video
And it is Friday, that was "coolincidence!" I will be Trusting your advice on my 1st Generation C4 and C7.
Good information there. It always sucks to have to repair something that was just repaired. When I need this done I'll be dropping by :-)
Lyle you’d definitely be my guy if i lived in Florida! Your videos are great!
Wow, another good video. Thanks.
Very Informative! I need to order one for my C7
My drive train started locking up shortly after the shop installed a new clutch and driveshaft. The symptoms seemed like a transmission failure at first because the transmission was low on fluid so we replaced the transmission. After the car was re-assembled the drive line locked up again on the test drive. Now that I've seen this video it's clear that we should have disassembled and inspected the torque tube before re-assembling the car. We're pulling the car apart again and this time we'll focus on the torque tube. Thanks for another great video. This stuff is helpful!
We found that one of the rear coupler bolts came lose and bounced around the torque tube and destroyed my new DSS drive shaft. The bolt jammed in several locations and cut deep grooves in the drive shaft. The bolts were new the threads were oily. The tech apparently didn't bother to degrease the flange and may not have torqued the bolts to spec.
Thank you so much for the information I have a 2018 C7 Corvette coupe 2 LZ, Z06 Automatic. I'm keeping the car.
Great video.
One important thing to also consider in re-building the torque tube is that the thing needs to be balanced, or you will wind up tearing it all apart again soon. That is one of the reasons that the dealers, and drive shaft shops want you to buy a whole new torque tube. They dont want that liability, and also dont have a machine to balance the thing. (one drive shaft shop told me there is a machine for balancing these, but it is not economical for them to buy it, for the occassional corvette that will show up.) I just got my torque tube replaced by a great corvette shop. The part cost $2237. and the labor was $1900. But I have the peace of mind knowing the whole assembly was properly assembled and balanced at the factory. And the peace of mind knowing the whole repair was done right. Lots of things that can go very wrong when removing and replacing this part. i got lucky and found a shop that has done these many times. They got this job done and also harmonic balancer replaced in a day and a half. New part took a couple weeks on special order from gm. My 2003 corvette had 206,000 miles on it, torque tube in real bad shape. Just dis-assembled old tube, and couplers were completely shredded with piles of dust, and metal shavings. Very loud. Now car runs like brand new.
thank you
very informative video
Thank you for this video. I thought my A/M magna flow exhaust was causing a rattle due to poor fitment. It is definitely my Ttube
I have the same strange Noises from under the Car.
I was thinking it is maybe the Katalysator.
Removing the torque tube is no joke. It is very involved.$1300-$1500 is affordable unless you really want to do it yourself.
It will involve removing the rear subassembly and plenty of Hight on your lift. There are many jobs that are easy on some cars that are not so easy on the C5.
For example on my SS Camaro, I can drop the driveshaft and Transmission it's an easy couple hours BUT, on the C5 Oh my freaking GOD.
Not impossible but just a PITA but, when you crank it up and do a few pulls, love it.
Thank you Lyle!!!!! I had no idea how the torqu tube actually went together. How much do you think a rebuild labor should be from a competent corvette shop?
Wowzers 🤩
That looks terrible Lyle! Damn I hope they didn't get any other damages.
Hey Lyle,
Great video. What do you recommend for torque tube rebuilds? Do it every 100k? Do it only when a noise is present? Do it every clutch change? Or just inspect, monitor and replace as necessary? Thanks man.
Thank you. I'm having this exact issue right now. A fool called himself replacing the torque tube bushings when all the car needed was the transmission flush do to the notorious c7 shudder. 1 month later now the car sounds like all hell busting loose under the shifter. He made this problem and it's about to be trouble. Pray for him and me 😠
Can the early model automatic Transmission C5 torque tube rear axle hub bearings be chabged?
This is exactly what happens when you don't use the two sourced M10x1.50x55mm bearing retaining bolts torqued to 37ft-lbs as per the FSM procedure to hold the bearing into place prior to torque tube installation. Also if you try forcing the torque tube assembly into the engine without ensuring the prop shaft splines are aligned and level you will push this bearing back into the tube and this will be the result. It's important never to use ratchet straps or longer installation bolts to force TT installation. The shaft clamp on Automatic models also needs to be loosened completely to ensure easy shaft installation. The TT should install with rocking and steady pressure ONLY. Having a second person loop a piece of rope around the top of the splined shaft and jiggling the rope up and down with both hands also helps assist the shaft into the engine. Once the TT gets almost all the way to the front you need to inspect the front bearing to ensure it hasn't sunk back into the tube or you have to remove the entire sub assembly again, start the assembly process from scratch to reset the front bearing so it stays flush. Again it's essential retaining bolts are used and torqued to 37ft,lb and that the bearing stays flush. Once the TT is far enough in for the original bolts to thread in you can use them to assist the TT for final installation. Once the TT is installed and flush you can then remove the bearing retaining bolts from the TT and swap the original factory hex bolts back in their place. DO not tighten the shaft clamp as it's done at the very last step of the job. While fastening the 4 rear subassembly nuts at the rear DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS or you can break the bolt anchors and the only way to fix that is drill holes in your trunk to replace them. When everything is back together run the engine for 10 minutes, this allows the prop shaft to center in the hub (you will hear an odd noise from the clamp riding on the shaft) then turn the car off, rotate the clamp back down to access the hex bolt head and tighten to 96ft/lbs. Replace the access cover and your done.
I can totally see how someone pulling the torque tube tight to the tranny with longer bolts (as you mention) could cause this! Those plastic spline aligning tools that come with most clutches are garbage. I used my actual torque tube input shaft held when tightening down my torque tube and then during the final installation the torque tube slid in like butter. Not sure what is wrong with the plastic ones (they appear like a replica) but are NOT! I am not recalling the bearing retaining bolts you are mentioning. Are they for auto tranny onlys or the earlier torque tube that does not use the GIANT snap ring?
@@Toys4Life The front bearing retaining bolts are required for all torque tube versions and need to be sourced separately, (not dealer provided) and replace the two hex plug bolts located at the front of the torque tube during TT installation. Most people don't know they are required as the FSM is very vague about this but this is exactly what can happen if you fail to use them.
@@c-shepard Thank you for the response but I am still not understanding what bolts you are referring to at the front of the TT. 3:02 of the video shows the front of the TT housing and I dont see them. Is there a point in your video where you can see them. I have 3000 hard miles on mine now (and multiple 11 second 130 MPH passes) so I am sure I am fine - but I would really like to know what bolts you are referring to. If I did anything wrong, I will pull my TT out and fix it. Thanks.
@@Toys4Life The bolts install on the other side of that flange. It's not obvious but they are definitely there. Two gold colored galvanized allen bolts. You remove those and put longer bolts in to lock the bearing during installation then put the originals back in once the TT is installed.
@@c-shepard thanks for adding such great detail! I think your explanation is the most concise and useful that I have ever seen! Thank you! Lyle
seems like GM discontinued the Couplers for the C7 Z51 M7, can someone help to know if they updated code or where to buy them?
Hey Lyle, I just had the Chevrolet Dealership change the trans. pan because the original on my 2008 Standard Corvette was starting to rust badly. After bringing the car home and starting it on a cold start (about 67 degree) a slapping noise came from the rear end. I shifted it into reverse and it still made that clunk sound. Shifted back into drive and it clunked again. It sounds like a universal joint going bad to me. Could it be that when the mechanic loosened the trans. to raise it up to take off the rusted oil pan that when it was lowered back down and tightened that it some how moved back and away from the original position? Would the dealership be liable for any damage or mis-alignment of the tube? I'm just beside myself and don't know what to think or how to move forward at this point.
I'm worried about my differential failing in the middle of a high-speed corner or at the end of the straightaway. Can differential c's? Or do they just blow themselves apart and you lose drive?
Is the manual drives haft versus the automatic drive shaft longer or shorter then the other?
Thanks for another great video. I rebuilt the torque tube in my 525 RWHP 03 C5 back in May and after watching this, you have me wondering if it is possible I did anything wrong. I wonder how they would have gotten the giant snap ring (in the rear) back in if the front bearing was not seated properly? What is the correct procedure for ensuring the bearing that resides on the front shaft (shaft that goes into the clutch disk) gets pressed into the front of the torque tube housing properly and stays there - other than visually inspecting the front after assembly to visually confirm it is fully seated?
That was my thought, how would they get the snap ring in if the shaft was that far forward
well buddy your 580hp c5 TT rebuild job seems to holding up just fine!
I had a 2014 C7 and I was having to get the torque tube replaced about every 5,000 miles. It was so bad that GM extended the bumper to bumper warranty up to 60k miles. According to the dealership the replacement was about $8k. I sold the car at 58,000 miles. ;-)
I wonder if that's the one I have now! lol
Hey Lyle, can you please advise me how difficult it is to rebuild my 2011 grand sport torque tube??? Thank you Sir.
I have a small vibration in my stick shift in 3rd and 4th gear, could that be signs of torque tube problems?
So you might want to mention about setting the preload when installing the input shaft on the flex plate . If you don't push back on on the crank when installing it ,the torque tube can push on the thrust bearing and ruin it and now you're talking about doing a crank shaft in the engine
sure wish you livedin Northern California you would be my go to guy I'm a new owner of a 2001 C5 corvette I boughtthis year after watching your channel its really clean with low miles but you always have great information, by the way can I just replace my headlight bulbs for better brightness or do I have to buy a hole assembly
You can absolutley replace the bulbs with updated units without any issues. You may want to consider changing over to LED bulbs, too. Just make sure to get good quality , no matter what you choose. Lyle
Please make a video that shows how to use the tech 2 scanner to delete the 80 mph light on a 2004 c5 corvette with f55 system. The 2004 with f55 is the only year no one can get the 80 mph message to go away .all the other messages go away but not that one.can some one please help me with this problem thank you.
Great!!
That shouldn't even be possible. Dude had to miss multiple snap rings for that to occur...
These later model Corvettes after 1982 are a major potential nightmare. Makes owning one nerve - racking.
Lol how wrong you are.... 72-82 vets are guttless junk... Sorry you cant understand a bit of tech...
But the c3s are a headache with the vacuum lines.
@@fuse911 Rather have that problem than computer or electronic issues.
@@marblox9300 i love the c3s but the reason why i want a c5 2001-2002 is because itll be easier to fix if it breaks down and parts will be cheaper and easier. Also more videos on c5s
Between the torque tube and harmonic balancer - on specifically the C5-C6 it makes me weary to think of purchasing a corvette as the claim of "one of the most reliable cars" seems to be slightly skewed. I only say this due to these being the most common complaints I read about and some of the most costly repairs - Is there a model year that, mechanically wont drain my bank account with repairs because a manufacturer used faulty parts during the build??
Dramatic!
another great video and very informative. dont have any noise or issues with my 700 rwhp c5 z06. still wonder if I should just replace the torque tube bushings and rubber coupler. wonder how much that would be in a perfectly running car. supercharged of course.
I have no experience with the ECS Tamer. For the power you are making, it certainly couldn't hurt. I would also focus on the engine and diff mounts and solidifying those points at the same time. Lyle
Parts and labor run about $1800.00
Yes I have been thinking of engine mounts also . Thank you again very informative. Looking forward to doing business with you in the future. Ed
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!
What causes the torque tube failure on a c7? Heat?
Good shit I was looking for my problem they told me it was the torque tube
Hey sir are tork tubes better from 2002 on ??
Cadillac xlrv gets the same treatment?
Sir thanks for the video. I have an rattle sound in lower rpm. I don’t know if it’s that part on your video or the torque tube . Strange enough it makes sound only on lower rpm so when I hit the paddle a little bit , it disappears. It’s an automatic and btw when I drive the car it’s oke and also shifts very good without a noise
did you find out what it is?
How is that even possible the bearing pushes in relatively easily and that giant ass snap ring holds it all in. Is there something I'm missing?
Is this for automatic and manual?
Can you please tell where to buy the bushing for the Corvette C7 M7 torque tube? seems like GM discontinued them
You will need to buy the rebuilt driveshaft assembly as a whole. Most Chevy dealers have them on the shelf at this point, as this problem is becoming very prevalent. Lyle
I live in Southern California and I have a 2001 C5 convertible that I bought last year. It’s in really great shape. It seems like the corvette’s drive train is so unique that it would be better to take it to a corvette specific shop. There are a few in my area. Would you agree that it’s the best thing to do?
Luckily I don’t have any issues with it. It has 85k miles and manual transmission. Some maintenance items I’m looking forward to doing myself. Drive train doesn’t look like one of them.
Dan, you definitely want to entrust drivetrain work to a shop that has lots of experience with these cars. You may have better luck at a shop that works on road racing cars than you would at a "normal" mechanic. There aren't many Corvette specialists left in CA, for a myriad of reasons, but if I can help you locate one, I will. Lyle :)
Older video. Very informative. Iam a hobby mechanic. But i will let the professionals do this one.Thank you
My c6 is in the garage right now, i sent him the video hopefully it'll guide to install my rebuild kit properly 🥴
what years of c7 are bad?
How much do you charge if I bring you the car
Great info. Are the torque tubes more prone to failure on the auto cars or manuals?
Age is the killer on these units---no better or worse with either transmission.
@@cscorvetteify thanks. Just bought a 17 C7 M7 with 32,000 miles. Hoping for no expensive surprises just yet!
I have when going to a driveshaft shop driveshaft you eliminate couplers, & also bearings ????
Hinson Motorsports makes a driveshaft that eliminates the couplers, but I am unaware of any way to get rid of the bearings... Lyle
I can't fathom the ignorance that must have been involved in ramming that back in the housing.
How long do the couplers and bearings usually last
C5/C6 10-15 years. C7 6-10 years. :) Lyle
$250 , for a 14-16 Torque Tube , on. EBay ! Vette owners can't or won't work on their cars, so good for you !
Take it to chevy !!
Coral Gables 🌴🇺🇸 I assume removal and installation can be done by owner ? ? Deliver to C&S for tube rebuild ? ? Sarasota airport near C&S ? ? 🏄
IT can, but the owner would need a lift and a lot of shop equipment unless he was doing it on his back, which is zero fun. You can bring us the car or the torque tube by itself for a rebuild. We are located in South Sarasota off of Clark Road (Exit 205 on I-75). Lyle
@@cscorvetteify location address please and thank what area is this located in ? Thanks
Great video... I just didn't understand what they did wrong... did the bearing not get seated all the way? Did they not install the snap ring behind the slinger? I just can't see what could go wrong as long as the snap rings are all installed properly... I just rebuilt my torque tube, just wanting to know exactly what this person did wrong...
My guess is that the shop didn't know to loosen the collar at the flexplate to allow the input shaft at the front to slide into position. They forced it in, which in turn pushed the entire assembly rearward. Lyle
Lol “ You do not want to own this”
So basically the couplers are what causes the failures on the TT??? Will replacing the driveshaft with an aftermarket problem solve this ???
The bearings wear out over time, too, but the catastrophic failures are almost always the couplers.
OMG!!!
Man to bad you guys are in Florida :/ this is exactly what I think is happening to my torque tube
I have a vibration/ humming 70+ mph and at 2k+ rpm in park. Sound like torque tube?
I have a constant squeak when I press the gas on my c5 from the undercarriage. I believe it’s the torque tube anyone have the same problem?
If the drive shaft splines into the flywheel, how can it oscillate? Can’t get that fleshed out in my mind.
Simple--as the rubber couplers degrade and loosen, the entire driveshaft becomes a bit of a jumping rope--thus the oscillation. In a solid (un-worn) unit, there is no oscillation for the reason you state. Lyle
@@cscorvetteify Ah- yeah, ok…not the splined shaft but the driveshaft at the coupler. Had something similar happen on an ltalian car (make name withheld to avoid embarrassment) many years ago,
Excellent program, by the way. You answer questions by providing information other UA-camrs skip over.👍🏻
@@marksavage8871 Thank you! Detail is important, and doing nothing but working on Corvettes provides us with a unique familiarity with the details. :) Lyle
Why can't a plan old school drive shaft be use
Pressing in new bearing is considered a rebuild on the torque-tube? It seems as if the driveshaft contains most of the replaceable parts. Or is this just a matter of terminology?
A torque tube rebuild consists of removing the driveshaft assembly from the tube itself, replacing the bearings/o-ring seals/couplers and then seating the assembly back into the proper mounting points in the tube. The main variable is that a bad driveshaft can "hog out" the bearing mounting surfaces in the tube itself and render it unusable. Lyle :)
INVALUABLE video!!!!!
I just got quoted $4600 to fix mine, I have a 40k mile 2008 corvette I’ve done less than 5k miles in!
Just got a 2014 stingray Auto z51. The rattle noise started at 1500 rmps to 2000 and stops. Not existent in idle and car runs normal. Chevy dealer cant tell what it is and wants me to pay for strip down for diagnosis. Help please. I have extended warranty that wants a diagnosis and work but no exploratory surgery cost.
Unfortunately, it sounds like the torque tube couplers are beginning to fail. The only way to know this is to disassemble the car and then knock apart the torque tube itself. Talk to your dealer about how they can bill you out on this task--the stripdown will most likely result in repairs covered by your warranty, so the only way that you should end up with $$ out of pocket is if the torque tube isn't the issue and they reassemble the drivetrain without performing repairs. I think this is extremely unlikely--2014's have the most prevalent T. Tube issues due to their age. Lyle
Man I just picked of the 14 sting, 150 dollars Diagnose Torque Tube and Zurich Extended not covered on my 4k warranty plan. Lyle can you rebuild this for me? I dont have the 6 grand their asking.
@@lyleaulwurm9486
@@GALENO713 I can do the job for around $4500, but not until February. Can you wait that long? Lyle
Hi Lyle,
The torque tube are the same for the Manual and Automatic?
Hey thanks for this video!!
Torque tube for Auto OR Manual, they are DIFFERENT assemblies....
Do you rebuild if I send you the tube
Yes, we do. Call me 800-886-5064. Lyle
DUDE, that's what's up.
My car made/makes noise and rattles the stick shift. Trans shop changed clutch. Pilot bearing toast. New motor later still rattles
did he sue the person/shop?
I don't know. They were out of state, so I never heard. Lyle
Can't hit like or comment on your 2022 update video, option not available
That's really strange... I have over 400 likes and 44 comments on that video already. No idea why that isn't coming up for you. Lyle
Have you seen bad couplers cause false misfires at idle?
IF the couplers are disintegrated badly enough, the vibration can trip the knock sensors and cause the engine to run poorly, yes. Lyle
@@cscorvetteify would that cause misfires only at idle? How would you check the couplers before pulling everything apart?
@@9090ruby Not necessarily, but I can't guess further with any certainty. There is no way to check the couplers without disassembling the torque tube, unfortunately.
@@cscorvetteify thank you. Do you have a link to your upgraded couplers? Do you sell it as a kit with bearing?
+1
Why is the drive shaft inside of a tube on these cars?
Because the transmission and differential/posi are mounted in the rear. Using a torque tube allows for a solid mounting of the rear components via the solid mount to the engine. There is still some side to side twisting movement due to motor mount flex and flexing of the rear diff/tranny mount. Allows the car to have the engine back further without limiting driver/passenger footwell area too much in an effort to get more weight on the rear tires for handling and traction (acceleration). Overall a good design IMO.
@@Toys4Life This is correct. The Corvette uses a transaxle, which is a stressed component with the chassis. Something has to flex between the motor and the transaxle.
This wear is really enhance by people dragging Corvettes, which I never understand. If you want a dragster, buy a dragster.
But then it wouldn't be a corvette! J.K. If I was building an 8 second drag car I would probably not start with a Corvette either.
No email on website, just a fax? lol
There is a "CONTACT" tab at the top of the webpage that opens to the email portal. Try that. Lyle
Any good hobbyist can do that job. Just dont be a goofball. Seat the bearings fully.
This video is total BS. That's 100% the wrong diagnosis. I watched this video, got concerned about my torque tube, yanked it out only to find out that what you claim happened is completely impossible. The front bearing IS NOT A PRESS FIT. There's even a rubber o-ring in the bore to help stabilize the bearing as it just slides into place from the back. .
What really happened: They didn't get the splines lined up properly initially and pushed the shaft into the tube during assembly to the engine. It also appears they didn't put the hard plastic centering collar/spacers in the rear giubo as the spacer prevents ANY compressive axial load on the bushing.
This video is loaded with false information.
Sorry you didn't dind it useful. The information is correct. Lyle
@@cscorvetteify I didn't find it useful because it caused me to waste hours of my life believing that I had made a mistake that can't be made. You can't squish the giubo into an S shape or even shorten the length of the shaft unless you forget to install the plastic centering spacer. The shaft is far too rigid with the spacer to do anything that you claim happened. Also that front bearing is not a press fit as you claim.
Those are the facts. I'm sorry you can't realize that.
I've have found other videos you have made useful, like the seat repair, and I'm thankful for them. This one, however, is simply not true.
@@GetaDomTune AM I correct in assuming that you have an early (97-99) C5? We may be miscommunicating.
@@cscorvetteify mine is a 2002.
Was the bushing not provided on earlier models?
I would be ignorant on anything regarding the earlier C5.
@@GetaDomTune I will ask my lead tech. We have done over 200 of these in-house without failure, so I'm curious to deiscover where we / I have gotten it wrong in the video. Appreciate your feedback. Lyle :)
Torque tube seems like a bad idea
No really cant blame bad worksmanship on the engineering....
I need the torque tube rebuilt on my 2007 Corvette. Where are you located and what is the cost?
Is your car an automatic or a manual shift? We are in Sarasota, FL. Lyle
+1