My next steam project is going to be a scratch build 45mm steam loco. I was wondering about boiler design but I’m going to follow your plan. Looks amazing! 😃👍
For a loco I think you would need to maximise the amount of steam produced rather than the velocity of that steam... have you thought of using fire tubes through the boiler and putting your exhaust up the chimney to draw the flame through them? Increasing the surface area over which heat transfers into the water will produce a much greater volume of steam and allow you to use larger more powerful cylinders rather than just having to crank the cycle speed like the mamods do... I have been looking at similar boilers for 3 and 4 cylinder setups - be sure and hit that bell button for notifications; there will be a few more experimental boilers coming soon!
Thanks for your wise council, much appreciated, you are of course correct. I sometimes let my enthusiasm overtake my critical planning, but I do like your design and can see the difference as you suggest. Speaking of tributes please have a look at my tribute to Horace. And I’ve subbed your channel as well, cheers! 👍
Thanks for watching Liam - certainly one of a kind... I don't do much with model turbines these days, but always found them underpowered with normal boilers; this certainly seems to do the trick!
What could I use for the exit steam connected to a small motor to create power? I’m not sure what your using but I need to make one for school using steam to give power
Great question… in this case, the steam turns a little turbine and produces rotary motion… now… if you were to connect a small generator to the turbine via a drive belt (say, a rubber band) you could generate electricity… check this out - this is where I would start 😉 ua-cam.com/video/NaKNuvwJ5q8/v-deo.html
Hi - this is hard solder (I believe 4% silver) so low grade silver solder, but is not “normal” solder… basically, it is fine as long as you don’t burn dry and I wouldn’t fancy using it over a more aggressive heating element than the meths burner - like a gas burner for instance. Usually I braze boilers using map gas and hard brazing sticks as you’ll see a few of my vids which is certainly recommended
Hi David - If you mean the boiler length, it is around 180mm long (7"). The boiler is made from 42mm (inch and 5/8ths) standard plumbing pipe, with 4.7mm (3/16th) copper brake line as the coil. The burner is made entirely from 15mm plumbing bits. The turbine was found on ebay years ago... I'm afraid I don't know the speed that the turbine hits - I don't have a tachometer... maybe one for my Christmas list!
What's the purpose of the coil around the boiler? I guess it's making it more efficient by fully expanding the steam, but again, could it be expanded even more after water inside reached past a 100 degrees celsius? An also, I've seen in another of your videos you make your own relieve valves. Is there any ballpark figure in terms of pressure you calibrate these at for tin/flux soldered boilers? Thanks.
Hi Eduardo! With the three flames, the coil really just gives the steam a bit of extra kick… any drops of water that find their way out of the boiler are turned to steam - every little bit helps with turbines, which use a huge amount of steam! I pressure test all of my boilers by pumping up to about 60psi with a foot pump and holding at that pressure for around half an hour before the steam safety valve is fitted; This is around 3 to 4 times the normal working pressure - I set my steam valves as close as I can to 15psi for medium sized models, and a lot lower for miniature stuff that could be damaged if they run too fast. Hope that helps - thanks for watching!
Hi!, but what's the pressure you use for these specific boilers (copper tubes and fittings soldered with tin)? I'd like to try making one but don't want it blowing in my face and have no previous experience with steam, Thanks.
That steam valve is a mamod original one, so the boiler will be operating between 12 and 15psi Re the solder: That’s silver solder except for the piece that connects to the turbine tube - I have various different thicknesses and melting points. I sometimes copper braze instead, but you don’t use soft solder on boilers just in case they run dry. If you are just starting out, I’d suggest going with something simple and low pressure - a small cylinder engine doesn’t need a lot of pressure - 15psi is all that mamod and wilesco boilers produce, so will be plenty. I test at crazy high pressures that the valve will never allow - 60psi where the steam valve design operates to blow off at 15psi gives plenty of margin for safety. Take your time, don’t cut corners, and good luck!
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A fitting tribute and a wonderful project. Nice one 👍
Many thanks - much appreciated!
My next steam project is going to be a scratch build 45mm steam loco. I was wondering about boiler design but I’m going to follow your plan. Looks amazing! 😃👍
For a loco I think you would need to maximise the amount of steam produced rather than the velocity of that steam... have you thought of using fire tubes through the boiler and putting your exhaust up the chimney to draw the flame through them? Increasing the surface area over which heat transfers into the water will produce a much greater volume of steam and allow you to use larger more powerful cylinders rather than just having to crank the cycle speed like the mamods do... I have been looking at similar boilers for 3 and 4 cylinder setups - be sure and hit that bell button for notifications; there will be a few more experimental boilers coming soon!
Thanks for your wise council, much appreciated, you are of course correct. I sometimes let my enthusiasm overtake my critical planning, but I do like your design and can see the difference as you suggest.
Speaking of tributes please have a look at my tribute to Horace.
And I’ve subbed your channel as well, cheers! 👍
Love it. How long did it actually take?
I’m guessing around 7 to 8 hours (discounting time between coats and so on). Quite a simple build, but effective 😊
Very 😎 and very 🔥 at the same time 😅
Very rare in Galway never seen one before
Thanks for watching Liam - certainly one of a kind... I don't do much with model turbines these days, but always found them underpowered with normal boilers; this certainly seems to do the trick!
Really cool 👍👍
Thanks Eduardo! 😊
What could I use for the exit steam connected to a small motor to create power? I’m not sure what your using but I need to make one for school using steam to give power
I have everything except when steam is produced it needs to be able to initiate power thru a small motor which I have just stuck
Great question… in this case, the steam turns a little turbine and produces rotary motion… now… if you were to connect a small generator to the turbine via a drive belt (say, a rubber band) you could generate electricity… check this out - this is where I would start 😉 ua-cam.com/video/NaKNuvwJ5q8/v-deo.html
How does the solder hold up to use over a burner?
Hi - this is hard solder (I believe 4% silver) so low grade silver solder, but is not “normal” solder… basically, it is fine as long as you don’t burn dry and I wouldn’t fancy using it over a more aggressive heating element than the meths burner - like a gas burner for instance. Usually I braze boilers using map gas and hard brazing sticks as you’ll see a few of my vids which is certainly recommended
@@bigtalltim Great! Thanks for the response and the video
Wher is the measure for the project
Hi David - If you mean the boiler length, it is around 180mm long (7"). The boiler is made from 42mm (inch and 5/8ths) standard plumbing pipe, with 4.7mm (3/16th) copper brake line as the coil. The burner is made entirely from 15mm plumbing bits. The turbine was found on ebay years ago... I'm afraid I don't know the speed that the turbine hits - I don't have a tachometer... maybe one for my Christmas list!
@@bigtalltim thank you I will try to build one i have the old engines
You are very welcome - good luck with your build, and thanks for watching!
What's the purpose of the coil around the boiler? I guess it's making it more efficient by fully expanding the steam, but again, could it be expanded even more after water inside reached past a 100 degrees celsius?
An also, I've seen in another of your videos you make your own relieve valves. Is there any ballpark figure in terms of pressure you calibrate these at for tin/flux soldered boilers? Thanks.
Hi Eduardo! With the three flames, the coil really just gives the steam a bit of extra kick… any drops of water that find their way out of the boiler are turned to steam - every little bit helps with turbines, which use a huge amount of steam! I pressure test all of my boilers by pumping up to about 60psi with a foot pump and holding at that pressure for around half an hour before the steam safety valve is fitted; This is around 3 to 4 times the normal working pressure - I set my steam valves as close as I can to 15psi for medium sized models, and a lot lower for miniature stuff that could be damaged if they run too fast. Hope that helps - thanks for watching!
Hi!, but what's the pressure you use for these specific boilers (copper tubes and fittings soldered with tin)? I'd like to try making one but don't want it blowing in my face and have no previous experience with steam, Thanks.
That steam valve is a mamod original one, so the boiler will be operating between 12 and 15psi
Re the solder: That’s silver solder except for the piece that connects to the turbine tube - I have various different thicknesses and melting points. I sometimes copper braze instead, but you don’t use soft solder on boilers just in case they run dry. If you are just starting out, I’d suggest going with something simple and low pressure - a small cylinder engine doesn’t need a lot of pressure - 15psi is all that mamod and wilesco boilers produce, so will be plenty. I test at crazy high pressures that the valve will never allow - 60psi where the steam valve design operates to blow off at 15psi gives plenty of margin for safety. Take your time, don’t cut corners, and good luck!