Please advocate heat shrink tubing over electrical tape. Electrical tape leaves a sticky mess if/when it comes off, doesn't stand up to time or heat very well, and can partially separate allowing for shorts. Many heat shrink tubings also include a hotglue style sealant inside, and taping a few strips of straight stuff to your TV is more aesthetically pleasing than a gnarled mass of electrical tape. Your soldering tool is too hot, and your style is too "touch and go" -- normally you want to linger longer to create a hotter joint, so the solder can bond more properly to the wire. Your iron is so hot it's beginning to burn the solder and its flux core, even at your elevated speed. Further, I STRONGLY suggest Silicone jacketed wire; once you use it, you'll never use anything else. The wire is better quality so it won't break as easy/often, and the jacket is (almost) chemical- and heat-proof. Finally, a 22 ohm resistor will perform effectively the same -exact- job, but 22 ohm is a standard value where 20 ohm is a precision-only value and may be more difficult to source! Great work as always, sir.
Great vid. One recommendation to improving your soldering skills is - don't just melt the solder, but apply heat to what you need to solder and then touch it with the solder so that the soldering area melts the solder and you don't end up with a cold joint, which results in bad electrical contact in the long run. Saves you a lot of headache in the future. For everything else, thanks and Kudos!
When soldering, it can help to first treat each end that you want to solder to another on its own and prepare it by pre-tinning it. Once you have two pre-tinned wire ends next to one another, you can just touch those with a soldering iron and they will connect and fuse as the solder reflows. Your duct tape solution to the _"I don't have enough hands"_ problem that everybody has is not bad. Doing this by hand takes practice and risks burning yourself, as every experienced soldering technician has done at some point. There also is a tool for that, with its own Wikipedia article: Helping hand (tool) - but do what works for you.
@@LusRetroSource You're welcome, and thank you! It's actually pretty nice to see unashamedly beginner-level soldering here, because it shows others they can do it too, and it doesn't have to be perfect. One thing I would add is, it's better to plan ahead and use heat-shrink tubing instead of electrical tape, because the latter doesn't last as well in my experience. I've also been meaning to email you about the Mattel Aquarius ever since I watched your video on that. Maybe this will finally shame me into getting that act together and pressing send.
Great vid! I recommend using a fish eye lens (the ones you can use on a cell phone) on the gun con. The gun would be able to see the entire screen at a much closer distance. This way you wouldn’t have to stand far away from the tv to play.
Used your guide to build a pair of emitters to use with a real Naomi set-up, so thanks for this! i even 3D printed some stands for the emitters for my monitor that work like a charm.
Nice video and like the homemade approach though it would be easier using a PCB board for the IR setup. Hope you'll try out Gun4IR some day for the MiSTer and see how that compares.
It seriously surprises me the MiSTer got GunCon 3 support before the PC did, I always wondered why nobody attempted to make them work on the PC, sure they aren't the best option out there (especially now with the Gun4IR wandering our lives now) but they are readily available and had all the features to work as good alternatives to say, a Wii Remote (in my opinion, these seem to work better than a Wii Remote) Either way, thanks for the fantastic tutorial! Very useful and hopes to see these guns have more usability outside of the PS3
Thank you for this great and detailed video what was just come in time. Few weeks ago i got a CRT for my mister. I have a collection of lightguns for ps1 and ps2 and now its clear how map ps2 gun for the mister. Guncon45 works with SNAC but i need to feed the composite signal to the SCART instead of Snac composite port. I bought a PS1 Hyper Blaster Justifier for specialy this games, but unfortunately doesnt work yet (No composite plug for the gun). Tomorrow i will solder IO6 jumper on my IO board let see can i get them work corretly.
Excellent video! Good news is there are patched versions of the Justifier games that allow you to use the Guncon. Also something that may help with the reloading is try just covering the opening of the barrel of the gun with your hand rather than aiming off screen. It may be easier. Thanks for always providing great news updates and info!
hey! lookin good Lu!! ..it is nice seein a face sometimes. Love your content! ..any chance on doin an updated GunCon 2 vid? It seems its easier to set up than most think and can be done w a simple RCA Y splitter vs needing the OEM T cable. Also when bringing up the calibration menu, looks to need a white blank screen frm the 240p test suite along w an overall brighter picture to ensure best calibration. idk.. jus seems like it needs a concise update frm somebody popular lol. Id like to try and make one myself soon, but im no Lu.. haha Thnx for all.
I don't have another Guncon3 to test but I don't see any reason why 2 shouldn't work. I was able to get a Guncon2 and Guncon3 working together with MiSTer on a CRT.
@@LusRetroSource where can I learn more about the emitter pcbs? I could make my own in easyeda, but I'd rather want to support whomever found out the color of the ir LEDs
hi I have a gcon3 for ps3 but unfortunately without sensors. I wanted to know if the sensors you build are also good for the ps3 console? thank you bye
@@LusRetroSource it would be awesome to have a working driver from this work for the mister for pc, i have a guncon 3 lying around with original sensors waiting to be played on a pc but i haven`t had any luck finding one.
hi, i'm a noob here asking for help please. when I start my PSX core on Mister, the Playstation BIOS does not show in fullscreen, taking up just the centre of my TV. hence I cannot calibrate my GunCon 3 like how Lu does. but once I'm past the BIOS screen and when a game boots up, it will display properly in 4:3 and touch the top and bottom edges of my TV. i wonder if this is the reason why I cannot seem to get my GunCon3 calibrated and working like Lu's? I notice that my crosshair tends to be way off when I aim to the left and right, but less off towards the top and bottom. many thanks to anyone who can advise!
You probably have fastboot set to on in the menu. That skips the BIOS screen. However, you dont need to use that specific BIOS screen for the calibration, it's just the easiest one to use. You can use any screen that shows you the full 4:3 area. The point is to find a screen where you can see the left and right outer bounds.
I appreciate that you looked at Area 51 - I bought the GC3 over the summer and had no issues with Genesis, NES, or SNES, and solid results with the PSX, up until I tried Area 51... I couldn't find any instances where other people had posted that they were having issues with it, so I gave up and assumed that it was just an issue on my end. Glad to see that it's not just me.
Ha ha. Always good to know you're not the only one. Some viewers have commented that some Justifier games have been patch to use the GunCon, so I'm going to have to test those patches to see if they work better.
There are a lot of patches for justifier games to make them work with a guncon. I’ve read the patches are more accurate than native justifier support.Area 51 has no patch. There have been some recent builds that improved justifier support for PSX and fixed accuracy / reloading.
@@robbaldwin6468 Cool thanks man. Think I will give it a go. I got a 36 inch crt I usually use for light gun games. I love the big screen, especially for light guns.
Yes you didn't do a great job of soldering, but you did almost half decent job, and you show people they can start soldering without having prior experience. (dip their toe in the water before learning to swim). Next time you want to solder things like this to a perf board. It's only slightly more jank than bespoke PCB. Next time :)
I don't see non-usb lightguns getting support for all cores. The GunCon2 would be your best option, they're meant for CRT's, aren't very expensive to get, work with all cores and are very accurate. I have a video for setting it up the GunCon2. It's a little outdated but the only change is that you do not need to use a patched version of MiSTer anymore. I'm still planning on doing a followup video. Here's the vid: ua-cam.com/video/s0F8KnqeOd8/v-deo.html
In short use wii bar powered by AA batteries To work perfectly 2 bars on top and one down it’s it’s work great with my ps3 I discovered this by accident work will with ps move and guncon 3 try it and let everyone know about it
Don‘t get your setup. So you put one bar at the bottom (centered?) of the tv and two bars at the top. How exactly to you place the two at the top. Centered on on top of the other or centered side by side?
I dont know about laser bear but I recently saw a MisterAddons post that they are developing them too. I will talk about it in next weeks news video. I'll also check out Laser Bear to see if they are developing them too.
Please advocate heat shrink tubing over electrical tape. Electrical tape leaves a sticky mess if/when it comes off, doesn't stand up to time or heat very well, and can partially separate allowing for shorts. Many heat shrink tubings also include a hotglue style sealant inside, and taping a few strips of straight stuff to your TV is more aesthetically pleasing than a gnarled mass of electrical tape. Your soldering tool is too hot, and your style is too "touch and go" -- normally you want to linger longer to create a hotter joint, so the solder can bond more properly to the wire. Your iron is so hot it's beginning to burn the solder and its flux core, even at your elevated speed. Further, I STRONGLY suggest Silicone jacketed wire; once you use it, you'll never use anything else. The wire is better quality so it won't break as easy/often, and the jacket is (almost) chemical- and heat-proof. Finally, a 22 ohm resistor will perform effectively the same -exact- job, but 22 ohm is a standard value where 20 ohm is a precision-only value and may be more difficult to source! Great work as always, sir.
Thanks! I definitely want to improve so I appreciate the advice. Lots of good info you provided.
Love your videos man! Your soldering skills frighten me thoroughly but ... I love your videos man!
Ha ha! Yeah I definitely do need more practice.
Great vid. One recommendation to improving your soldering skills is - don't just melt the solder, but apply heat to what you need to solder and then touch it with the solder so that the soldering area melts the solder and you don't end up with a cold joint, which results in bad electrical contact in the long run. Saves you a lot of headache in the future. For everything else, thanks and Kudos!
When soldering, it can help to first treat each end that you want to solder to another on its own and prepare it by pre-tinning it. Once you have two pre-tinned wire ends next to one another, you can just touch those with a soldering iron and they will connect and fuse as the solder reflows. Your duct tape solution to the _"I don't have enough hands"_ problem that everybody has is not bad. Doing this by hand takes practice and risks burning yourself, as every experienced soldering technician has done at some point. There also is a tool for that, with its own Wikipedia article: Helping hand (tool) - but do what works for you.
Thanks for the advice!
@@LusRetroSource You're welcome, and thank you! It's actually pretty nice to see unashamedly beginner-level soldering here, because it shows others they can do it too, and it doesn't have to be perfect.
One thing I would add is, it's better to plan ahead and use heat-shrink tubing instead of electrical tape, because the latter doesn't last as well in my experience.
I've also been meaning to email you about the Mattel Aquarius ever since I watched your video on that. Maybe this will finally shame me into getting that act together and pressing send.
I managed to get a good deal on a Guncon 3 with original emitters, and this video was helpful for me in getting those set up as well.
That is awesome! Glad I could help!
Great vid! I recommend using a fish eye lens (the ones you can use on a cell phone) on the gun con. The gun would be able to see the entire screen at a much closer distance. This way you wouldn’t have to stand far away from the tv to play.
Used your guide to build a pair of emitters to use with a real Naomi set-up, so thanks for this! i even 3D printed some stands for the emitters for my monitor that work like a charm.
That's great! I made this to help people out.
Thank you for that tutorial! Emitters works like a charm!
Awesome! I'm glad it help you out.
That's amazing. I feel like I should invest in the MiSTer soon.
Love the lightgun games.
These shortages aren't helping. Prices keep going up. Terasic announced a January price increase on the FPGA board for MiSTer.
Nice video and like the homemade approach though it would be easier using a PCB board for the IR setup. Hope you'll try out Gun4IR some day for the MiSTer and see how that compares.
Thanks for this excellent video. I really miss the light guns.
Yeah, it sucks that we're not getting much of them any more
I built Gun4IR and i am happy with it, but Original Lightguns and CRT far more better.
@@diamond2ktube 🙂👍🏽
It seriously surprises me the MiSTer got GunCon 3 support before the PC did, I always wondered why nobody attempted to make them work on the PC, sure they aren't the best option out there (especially now with the Gun4IR wandering our lives now) but they are readily available and had all the features to work as good alternatives to say, a Wii Remote (in my opinion, these seem to work better than a Wii Remote)
Either way, thanks for the fantastic tutorial! Very useful and hopes to see these guns have more usability outside of the PS3
Thank you for this great and detailed video what was just come in time. Few weeks ago i got a CRT for my mister. I have a collection of lightguns for ps1 and ps2 and now its clear how map ps2 gun for the mister. Guncon45 works with SNAC but i need to feed the composite signal to the SCART instead of Snac composite port. I bought a PS1 Hyper Blaster Justifier for specialy this games, but unfortunately doesnt work yet (No composite plug for the gun). Tomorrow i will solder IO6 jumper on my IO board let see can i get them work corretly.
Awesome. You have a great setup!
Excellent video! Good news is there are patched versions of the Justifier games that allow you to use the Guncon. Also something that may help with the reloading is try just covering the opening of the barrel of the gun with your hand rather than aiming off screen. It may be easier. Thanks for always providing great news updates and info!
Thanks for the tips! Will have to try out those patches and do a video on the results.
can you make a video to connect a lightgun to a CRT,PVM and monitor and setup?
Hey. I noticed that the video link for that mini ironclad itx board video is double posted in the description.
Thanks! I fixed it. There was also another link that needed to be fixed.
hey! lookin good Lu!! ..it is nice seein a face sometimes. Love your content! ..any chance on doin an updated GunCon 2 vid? It seems its easier to set up than most think and can be done w a simple RCA Y splitter vs needing the OEM T cable. Also when bringing up the calibration menu, looks to need a white blank screen frm the 240p test suite along w an overall brighter picture to ensure best calibration. idk.. jus seems like it needs a concise update frm somebody popular lol. Id like to try and make one myself soon, but im no Lu.. haha Thnx for all.
Yes! I'm revisiting the GunCon2. I also now have a CRT with component so I can test that too.
Hope some buddy over there at the mister store sells something like that.
Wii mote works.
There is a PC light gun i saw.
I think MiSTerAddons is developing PCB's to sell.
Do the peripherals (not the SNAC method) allow me to use two Guncon3 on a single Mister setup with a modern tv?
I don't have another Guncon3 to test but I don't see any reason why 2 shouldn't work. I was able to get a Guncon2 and Guncon3 working together with MiSTer on a CRT.
Yes it supports two guncon 3’s on one mister with one set of sensors.
Yes I need this, Can't find my two sets of emitters, tried to reverse engineer this my self but I gave up... family father life
Great! Glad I could help!
@@LusRetroSource where can I learn more about the emitter pcbs?
I could make my own in easyeda, but I'd rather want to support whomever found out the color of the ir LEDs
great video! ... hoply someone can print out 3D module to fix this sensor on TV.
Everyone here is a soldering expert hahah!
Ha ha! I'll take any advice I can get.
Are still 4 emitters/sensors required for PS3? Or only two like the original ones included with the gun? Thanks a lot
hi I have a gcon3 for ps3 but unfortunately without sensors. I wanted to know if the sensors you build are also good for the ps3 console? thank you bye
Yes, they will work with a PS3 console. You can also buy pre-made sensors from misteraddons.com.
Thanks lu
Welcome!
Is is posible to use the guncon 3 on a pc could it be posible to make a program similar to mister to windows?
There is an unstable driver, but I haven't been able to get it to work.
@@LusRetroSource it would be awesome to have a working driver from this work for the mister for pc, i have a guncon 3 lying around with original sensors waiting to be played on a pc but i haven`t had any luck finding one.
hi, i'm a noob here asking for help please. when I start my PSX core on Mister, the Playstation BIOS does not show in fullscreen, taking up just the centre of my TV. hence I cannot calibrate my GunCon 3 like how Lu does. but once I'm past the BIOS screen and when a game boots up, it will display properly in 4:3 and touch the top and bottom edges of my TV. i wonder if this is the reason why I cannot seem to get my GunCon3 calibrated and working like Lu's? I notice that my crosshair tends to be way off when I aim to the left and right, but less off towards the top and bottom. many thanks to anyone who can advise!
You probably have fastboot set to on in the menu. That skips the BIOS screen. However, you dont need to use that specific BIOS screen for the calibration, it's just the easiest one to use. You can use any screen that shows you the full 4:3 area. The point is to find a screen where you can see the left and right outer bounds.
I appreciate that you looked at Area 51 - I bought the GC3 over the summer and had no issues with Genesis, NES, or SNES, and solid results with the PSX, up until I tried Area 51... I couldn't find any instances where other people had posted that they were having issues with it, so I gave up and assumed that it was just an issue on my end. Glad to see that it's not just me.
Ha ha. Always good to know you're not the only one. Some viewers have commented that some Justifier games have been patch to use the GunCon, so I'm going to have to test those patches to see if they work better.
There are a lot of patches for justifier games to make them work with a guncon. I’ve read the patches are more accurate than native justifier support.Area 51 has no patch.
There have been some recent builds that improved justifier support for PSX and fixed accuracy / reloading.
Do they have to be 850 nm or can you use 940nm ir leds
Don't know, havent tried that wavelenght.
Lightgun games feel much better if you disable the on-screen crosshair.
Definitely, I just enables it so you can see how the tracking is working.
Will these DIY emitters also work when using the Guncon 3 on a PS3? (for Time Crisis 4?)
Yes!
Anyone know if this works with projectors? I got a nice DLP projector and a 100 inch screen.
it should. the gun is calculating where it is pointed based on the emitters. the screen has nothing to do with it.
Yes, I play Time Crisis for PS3 on my projector with the Guncon3, it's amazing! 🙂
@@robbaldwin6468 Cool thanks man. Think I will give it a go. I got a 36 inch crt I usually use for light gun games. I love the big screen, especially for light guns.
@@reginaldstubtoe4185 Cool thanks. Looks like a fun project. I am going to give it a try.
Does anyone know if the GCon 3 works on PC Windows 10. It sucks the gcon 3 only works on 3 games on PS3
Unfortunately it does not work with Windows.
Yes you didn't do a great job of soldering, but you did almost half decent job, and you show people they can start soldering without having prior experience. (dip their toe in the water before learning to swim).
Next time you want to solder things like this to a perf board. It's only slightly more jank than bespoke PCB. Next time :)
I need a lightgun for all cores for my crt monitor. I have justifier for snes, I wonder if some day it wil compatible with all cores.
I don't see non-usb lightguns getting support for all cores. The GunCon2 would be your best option, they're meant for CRT's, aren't very expensive to get, work with all cores and are very accurate.
I have a video for setting it up the GunCon2. It's a little outdated but the only change is that you do not need to use a patched version of MiSTer anymore. I'm still planning on doing a followup video.
Here's the vid: ua-cam.com/video/s0F8KnqeOd8/v-deo.html
@@LusRetroSource You are the best. Thank you.
heat shrink
In short use wii bar powered by AA batteries
To work perfectly 2 bars on top and one down it’s it’s work great with my ps3
I discovered this by accident work will with ps move and guncon 3 try it and let everyone know about it
Can you tell me the exact wii sensor bar you used?
@@LusRetroSource Duracell wii bar sensor wireless
Use 4 double A battery
@@LusRetroSource there is one rechargeable also by I use one with no rechargeable
Don‘t get your setup. So you put one bar at the bottom (centered?) of the tv and two bars at the top. How exactly to you place the two at the top. Centered on on top of the other or centered side by side?
Can you not use a wireless wii bar ?
Mentioned in the video that it doesnt work. The IR emitters need to be a specific wavelength that the Wii emitters do not match
@@LusRetroSource Got it, thanks.
Isn't laser bear making admitters for this?
I dont know about laser bear but I recently saw a MisterAddons post that they are developing them too. I will talk about it in next weeks news video. I'll also check out Laser Bear to see if they are developing them too.
@@LusRetroSource sweet, would much rather a nice 3d printed box I can just leave up. I believe gun4ir uses the same stuff
Can anyone confirm if this would work on real PS3 hardware?
They should definitely work on real hardware. I know some users who've tested them successfully.
Fiiiirst :)
Can you shed light on your racial makeup?
p̳r̳o̳m̳o̳s̳m̳ 🌺
This is awesome! Please try out the "guncon-hacked-games" and see if they work better.
Thanks!