Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
Will this Mini-Split Heat the Whole Building?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 січ 2022
- This Mini-split heat pump can keep my whole shop/garage warm in the winter. I installed this during the summer and the air conditioning worked great. Now it's winter and I am still very happy with it. This unit runs strictly on my off grid solar system. Check out some of my other videos to see how I installed the solar, batteries, and inverters.
Original Install Video: • DIY Mini-Split Heat Pu...
Signature Solar affiliate Links:
Heat Pump: signaturesolar.com/shop-all/h...
Affiliate Links:
Growatt 5000W Inverter with 450V MPPT Charge Controller 5000ES: signaturesolar.com/growatt-48...
Auto-Transformer, 5000ES: signaturesolar.com/growatt-5k...
EG4 Battery, 48V, 100Ah, 5.12kWh, LiFePO4, Server Rack design: signaturesolar.com/shop-all/b...
Waterproof EG4 battery: 48V LiFePO4 Lithium Battery with Bluetooth, EG4 Brand: signaturesolar.com/eg4-wp-lit...
The mini-split heat pump is a 9000 BTU model from Innovair. It does both heating and cooling. It touts an amazing claim of 38 SEER! Signature Solar provided this unit at no cost for the original video. I've chosen to make this follow up video to answer the questions from the viewers. The thoughts and opinions expressed in this video are mine alone. Thanks for watching, David.
Amazon affiliate links:
Watt Meter: amzn.to/3KckkcL
Vacuum pump and gauge set: amzn.to/3jAG9WO
Flare Tool eccentric cone: amzn.to/3CsnBRx
Nylog sealant: amzn.to/3CpzBD4
Lineset cover: amzn.to/2WVNloU
Deburring Tool: amzn.to/3AnFrmy
“As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.”
Disclaimer:
My videos are in no way intended to be instructional "how-to" lessons. I am simply documenting my project for informational purposes. Property damage, personal injury, or death may result, even when following manufacturer's instructions. I cannot be held liable for such damage or injury. It is YOUR OBLIGATION to ensure that you are complying with any local and federal laws as well as code and permit requirements.
David Poz, LLC
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
It's amazing how these things can pull heat out of freezing cold air like that!
It's because temperature is relative to how you feel, not heat energy. Anything above absolute zero has heat energy in it. Mr. Cool units can operate at their rated efficiency down to -22°
True. Also, moving heat is a lot more efficient than making heat, for example with a resistive heater.
@@BehroozShariati I don't know, solar panels are really good at making heat 🙃
@@tt7hvn True; and I think David set up a water heater as a dump load for story excess PV, but regardless of how the electrify is generated, the efficiency of a heat pump significantly exceeds the efficiency of resistive heating, and this would have been a great demonstration. I guess the real point was that the heat pump could pull heat out of the ambient air even at fairly low temperatures, which it did.
as long as there is some moisture it can get some heat out of the refrigerant like dude below said its about the what it feels like wind chill and humidity, wet bulb temp.
9K BTU is the smallest Mini Split I've ever seen. I put a 15k BTU in my basement, and it's extremely efficient and quiet. We were running two 120V dehumidifiers to take out that moist smell, and they used insane amounts of electricity. The mini split keeps the moisture out (no wet dog smell), and our power bill has plummeted.
Mitsubishi makes a 6000 BTU and I think Fujitsu makes a 7k but otherwise you are correct.
@@petersachs764 l
Is it possible to get 30+ SEER 9000 BTU? Who? Thx guys.
Cooper and Hunter makes a 6k!!
I also have 2 dehumidifiers in my finished basement. The mini split has a dehumidifier setting that you use and the power bill plummeted?
1.14.22 Your garage at 66 degrees is warmer than my house at 64. I like watching your videos.
Thanks for watching. Do you have a wife that is OK with 64? Mine won't go for that in the house. LOL
It is truly amazing how far these things have come
Mini splits are really great. So quiet and efficient. Love my shop now!
Thanks for running through your setup and providing kWh figure-most reviewers on YT don’t for some reason.
Man that thing runs so NICE!! So cool to think it's taking that heat from out side and moving it into the house!! Thanks for sharing. God Bless brother..
Thanks for watching Bobby.
Mini Split's are amazing, they pull heat out of cold air to a point very efficiently.
Thats a well insulated and sealed building! :)
I should do a 24hr test and see how my setup compares.
Thanks for the follow up. I'm planning a new house and variable speed compressors and fans are definitely in my future. I'm still researching ground source heat, it is very doable with a new build, but still much more expensive than mini-splits.
I have a 20 SEER 2 ton American Standard HP System. 10 yrs parts warranty. We love ours. Every motor is variable speed. Works great with our solar.
Wow! Thanks for the winter update! Great to see the mini split work at that temperature. I know which system to Buy.
Mitsubishi Electric or Panasonic nothing Chinese!
Intéressant ce test et bravo pour avoir braver le froid !! 😅
Really nice job cutting/editing video!
i have two Mitsubishi A/C units and they are extremely efficient for heating. My daily consumption when -5C outside was around 2-3 kWh a day to keep 22C inside of 100 m2 house.
You have good insulation
6260wh in 24h = 260.8w average. That's impressive. A 260w resistive heater wouldn't come close to keeping a garage that warm on that cold of a night.
Unless you've watched the entire build series on the garage, and have a very similar garage in a very similar garage, or you've done the calculations, that's pretty much impossible for you to say. If a building is built and insulated well enough, it can literally be heated by a person being inside it, or even a simple candle.
I'm not saying that 260W average to keep a shop at a 20 degree delta isn't good, I'm just saying that without a lot more information, it's impossible to know if that efficiency is down to the heat pump or the construction quality of the building. I mean, we all know it's the heatpump based on experience with other heat pumps, but that still doesn't make it 100% conclusive.
Your right Dwane, especially as David admitted that the old window ac was basically a hole in the wall! Keeping a large space like that with a garage door at a steady temperature for that amount of kwh is impressive. The added bonus is the dehumidifier effect which will keep those inverter electronics nice and dry!
@@timderks5960I replaced my electric resistive heaters with air source heat pump.
On a yearly level it consumed about 4 times less electricity. Same place, similar winter but a huge difference
I'm heating my house with mini splits not a big house but it gets the job done with two 12000BTU unis (not a great insulation on the house and old windows tho). Pretty decent power usage running 24/7 during the winter since the alternative is wood or wood pellets. And this is just a click of a button and you're getting heat.
Thanks David, That was a good test.
Totally amazing, even the 6amp startup is really low for the short time it stayed there. What is the sq. footage of your shop? Great job, I've been sending your videos to everyone I know.
Dude! Duuuuude! This is frickin' amazing! 261 w average use for heating!!! Getting mine soon.
The reason for high amp at startup is refrigerant migration. Refrigerant will travel unrestricted in system loop to the coldest point. Have not encountered a mini split system with factory installed solenoid valves, but implementation of solenoid valves to lock lineset from migration may be your solution. Nice video showing that size doesn't ALWAYS matter when air conditioning or heating, EVEN in the snow.
John Politz, I have never worked on a ductless minisplit that did not use a Electronic Expansion Valve. When they power off, normally the EEV will close completely, and thus stop refrigerant flow.
I think what this video demonstrated is that when the garage is cold, and the unit has not run for 12 hours, then the compressor will go to maximum speed (thus the 5+ amps of load) and the indoor and outdoor fans to maximum power for a few minutes to bring the temperature back to "Normal" or 65F, before ramping down the speed of the compressor and fans to meet the exact heat needs of the space. After 66F was reached, then the average power per hour was reduced to about 300 watts, or about 2.5 amps?
Excellent explanation and video. Thanks a lot.
This is perfect... exactly what I've been wondering. I went ahead and got the Cooper & Hunter just simply because it claims it can work down to -22 (though the literature in the box states -14). I'm wiring it now. Great video!!! Hoping I get similar performance out of mine.
I went with the Senville Arctic Series. Also -22F, but also on the box.
Keep in mind wind chill and how dry it is, the rating is more like what it feels like than exact temperature. It will also begin losing efficiency below freezing and it drops off quicker below zero you might only work at 50% and will ramp down slowly ramp down. I have had one for years in Texas its a -5 system in the condenser is my roof. If there's a strong north wind blowing and it's very dry it wont be able to do much below 20. So you might want to keep a space heater around just in case, electric ones are really cheap.
@@mpirron1 I believe it will work way below 20º based on all of the reviews
@@mpirron1 plus even the model in this video went well below 20º. The Cooper & Hunter is supposed to be one of the best for extreme cold.
sorry I typo'd, that should say 40F with the wind chill 20F without.
Keeping the set point temperatures low improves both the heating capacity and the efficiency of a heat pump in heating mode, which works out great for a garage/workshop that you maintain at a lower temperature than your house. Opposite is true for cooling where higher setpoints improve capacity and efficiency.
David, I don't remember seeing your heat loads for your garage - did you ever share them? It's hard to know how well something is working at heating a space unless you know what the demand is.
Dave- Fine work on this video! I'm building a fully off grid cabin and this was hugely helpful as I try and calc my minisplit loads!!! No one seems to post on the daily consumption in real world terms like this video. Would be super helpful if you could share about how big your garage is (sqft and ceiling height) and a guestimate of insulation. Again, thanks for doing this, keep it up!
Hi. My garage is 1200 square feet, 12 foot ceiling. It is super-insulated, but with standard doors. Mini-splits work best if you set and forget. Set one temperature for the season, and don't touch it again.
@@DavidPozEnergy many thanks!
@@DavidPozEnergyhow did the meter calculate 6+ kwh? How did you hook the meter up? Can it be hooked up to a regular breaker box/panel?
Thanks for the update, David. If your unit continues to perform well, I’ll probably get one later this year.
Thanks for this content. In about a month or less; I'll be getting my mini-split from signature solar too! I'm in Louisiana Gulf coast so we don't get that low except maybe 1 day every 7 years. But I understand I'm not to let the batteries get below freezing or above a high temperature; so that is why I'm getting the mini-split to keep my battery/solar system within a good temperature range.
Very useful data!
i got 2 single split 4kw units running 24h in winter. I can see that the efficiency/COP drops off quickly below 5c. around 0/1c my home can be heated at around ~20kwh for 24h, when its 5/7c i can heat my home at around ~10kwh. I got some great graphs in my home assistant dashboard showing lower temperatures equal more heatpump power;)
Floris Benniks, I am wondering what year your units where installed, and what the SEER and HPSF ratings are? If you provide the model numbers, it is easy to look them up. If they where installed in the 90's then modern equipment can make more heat with a lower cost today.
I agree that it takes more power when it is 0C than 5C. This is also in part that you get more heat loss on a colder day too. You might want to check your temperature "Split". So what is the air temperature in VS out the grills? If you are getting 20F (11C) temperature drop in the cooling mode, that is ideal. If the unit is a little low on refrigerant, then the temperature drop might be 16F or less than 16F. (16F is about 8C) (of course this cooling test only works when it is above 25C outside).
In the heating mode, your temperature should be about 15C to 20C rise over the inlet air temperature. So with 15C in (about 59F) the output should be between 30C and 42C. (86F and 104F). With 20 C in, then about 35C to 45C out.
My guess is one of your units might be slightly low on refrigerant, and thus the higher cost to run them on a 0C day.
Based on 7amps @220V I roughly calculate a COP of about 1.7 @ 20F outside temp. (Assuming you're putting out 9,000 btu's of heat.) .. I don't see enough data to plot a curve. But my guess would be at 0F outside temp your COP would be closer to 1. A COP of 1.7 would mean that under load your Heat Pump is 1.7 times more efficient than a Strip heater. This is impressive compared to Mini-Splits sold in Texas which many will hit a COP of 1 at 25F. Hyper-Heat type Mini-Splits will do a COP of 2.7 at 17F for comparison. Thanks for the Video. Now maybe this Summer I'll send up a 110F day from Texas so we can get a good look at that EER number. ;-)
2 of the units I'm shopping for are rated 2.78 and 3.14 COP at 17F. At 5F they are 2 and 2.45 COP. I of course expect real world usage to be a bit different, but these new units are offering incredible efficiencies.
I want to do something like this ua-cam.com/video/dmckigvz7Hg/v-deo.html
You can set IT on saving mode.
The temp Will than be 8-celcius
And that hè had 7amp is normal.
You start the pomp on that moment.
If you let IT run IT Will be around 3 Amps.
I have the same systeem
@@AdmitthatijustdiditX which units is 2.45 COP at 5F?
Specs say 1.9 COP at 5F. The 7 amp draw was just during startup period.
We just got a ducted heat pump system about a month ago for our whole house. Last week it was a high of 5 degrees F and it heated the house very well. Kept the house at high 60s all day and night.
I’m fortunate living here in San Francisco California are mild winters we only need 9000 BTUs or 12,000 BTU heat pump to heat and cool a small San Francisco house usually consuming about 250 W to 300 W of power.
I feel sorry for those guys who live in places where they have to have 10,000 W or 20,000 W of inductive heater back up and it Hass to run all night in a poorly insulated in air sealed house.
Cannot imagine having a Power company bill over $50 a month because of heating or cooling
Was it air to air or air to water? “This old house” on UA-cam just came out with a video explaining the different heat pumps and the air to water was interesting. Also what brand/model did you get?
@@coldfinger459sub0 lol $50 a month for heating or cooling, where is this magical place you speak of that's amazing. I live in northern IL, hot summers and cold winters. I am super interested in these heat pumps I am just really skeptical that they could do (as well as) what our furnace and ACs can. We have cheap natural gas at least for heat.
@@cdurkinz it does make a difference on the house we are talking about and it’s construction materials and methods.
A house build in the 19 teens to the 1940s with no insulation in the attic no insulation in the walls or minimum upgrades I’ve blown in cellulose insulation with lots of leaky doors windows electrical outlets rafters and eaves and floor joists you’re going to have a high electric bill or high gas heating bill no matter what because the problem Hass to be fixed first a flat roof tar and gravel or a dark colored roof dark colored paint on the south or west wall you’re gonna have a massive electrical cooling bill for that air conditioning.
Now take the same size house either brand new built nearly airtight properly sealed and constructed with good insulation or a remodel the old house and for the summertime take that dark colored roof and painted with white reflective roofing paint.
And you have a perfect example of a 1200 square-foot house where one house nearly needs 4 to 5 tons of cooling running all the time and then you take that same 1200 square-foot house and you only need 9000 BTUs to 12,000 BTUs only periodically running.
Except there in Illinois you will need more because of your occasional humidity here extreme cold and heat
40°F is considered very cold here in San Francisco so the difference in temperature what you keep your indoor and outdoor for heating is very minor so you have very little energy loss in a well insulated airtight construction
We consider very hot days 78°F with relatively little humidity roughly 30% to 40% humidity on those hot days. So again the amount of energy absorbed through a well insulated airtight house trying to keep the interior of the house down to 68° or 70°F on a 78° day takes a extremely small amount of energy to achieve such a feat.
But even here in San Francisco a couple years ago when we had our record-breaking 105°F day with a few consecutive days of 100° plus
My little 12,000 BTU system in my office had no problem holding the 65° interior temperature for those three days 24 seven without the slightest bit of struggle.
On my mom‘s house this last summer I just painted the entire roof of her house with the bright reflective white and she never wants to turn on the air conditioning the whole entire summer time that was the first time that has ever happened just by changing the color of the roof.
Some of my customers here in San Francisco who have the tin shed kind of warehouses for their workplaces have to cancel and move their employees from the second floor next to the tin roof to the first floor because it gets over 114° on the second floor in the radiant heat feels like an oven on your head in the side of your face when you look up at the underside of the tin roof.
Convincing my customers to finally start changing over and painting their roofs white make it so their employees can use the second floor of their buildings 365 days a year now without the addition of air conditioning.
As for heating air sealing is almost more important than insulation. They both work hand-in-hand.
But if you can completely air seal the envelope of the living space and hopefully You’re heating your heat pump or your furnace and duct work is located within the envelope of the seal and conditioned air space. It takes much less energy whether it’s heating or cooling to condition the space.
Knowing the art of thermal management to sun is considered a black art a magic something of Wizards alchemy.
It’s really not that difficult my father instructed and taught me at a young age before high school so it just comes second nature without even thinking
By the way California has amongst the highest electricity per kilowatt hour in the nation
Googling Illinois electricity rates they say the average is $.12 a kilowatt hour California’s is $.24 a kilowatt hour so we’re double your states price per kilowatt but I can tell you I don’t know almost nobody we are on a allotment scale and if you use over your allotment scale per month your rate jumps up to $.32 or $.34 is what most of us all really pay per kilowatt hour.
@@DesentryD I have an old Panasonic unit I installed back in 2014 on my office warehouse location LG installed in my house LG installed in my kids house LG installed at my mothers house.
I sell and install LG on my commercial HVAC business.
Interesting test....NICE WORK!
I definitely like to see your take on the latest news on the American growatts by Will
This is a great video, and it shows that ductless heat pumps really can collect heat and warm a room when it is 5F outside! So many are still stuck in the 80's when a R-22 heat pump was not good at collecting heat. This was because the refrigerant pressure was so low, and they did not have variable speed compressors back then. Still many will say "Uncle George says heat pumps are junk, and will not provide any heat when it is below 40F outside". While true to some extent back in the 80's it is not true now.
I like to point out to my customers "Have you ever been in a walk in refrigerator or -15 F walk in freezer? They can still take heat out of a -15 freezer, and make the air colder." It is this colder air that the heat pump blows out at about 3,000 cubic feet per minute, then they take that heat and blow it into your living room at 300 cubic feet per minute at 120F. That is why your home will stay warm at night, even when it is 15F outside.
These units have come a long way in 40 years.
@@DavidPozEnergywhat size is your garage?
38 SEER and 15 HSPF? Wow, that's amazing! I just put in a new 4-ton inverter heat pump in that's only 16 SEER and 8.8 HSPF, and I thought that was decently efficient!
That might be the new ratings (SEER2 and HSPF2) which are much lower than the original ratings.
More easily compared , these 38 SEER 9000 BTU units are 16.6 EER and 4.3 COP (430%) and 1.9 COP at 5F.
Thank you for the test and the data analysis. Would have been interesting to do the same test with a resistive-type heater to compare the efficiency of the two systems. Clearly, the heat pump would have been significantly more efficient, but it would have still been an interesting contrast.
Yeah such a tiny heat load from 64 to 66 would be interesting to compare a nice thermostat controlled heater to the heat pump.
Usually the mini splits are 3x as efficient per watt vs a resistive heater
@@Upliftyourbrothers In theory yes, but from some users told, heating with the air conditioner is quite spicy.
Also, I neat my room electrically and for a day like that, below freezing in the nigt, and 20 during the day, for sure I burn a lot less than 6 kwh. But I have am single external wall, insulated, plus me and my computer add some heat. But also I keep the temperature a lot higher. So is no way to make a comparison, especially not knowing how well insulated is that shed.
So yes, an electric test, in a similar day will be really relevant. And in the end a life time comparison would reveal the true efficiency, because these things costs a lot while an electric heater cost something next to nothing.
Did a test with my 240V baseboard heater they use 5.8 Amps only cycling on a few minutes at a time. Really has me curious now, I am thinking that when its below zero temps like it has been here in Iowa that may be a battle for efficiency for the heat pump since it has to run the outside coil heater allot at the below zero temps.
@@AQUATICSLIVE, I have never heard of a outdoor heater put onto a heat pump, they do not exist. Your 5.8 amps at 240 volts is about 1,400 watts and 8,300 Btu's per hour. The unit in this video is probably 18,000 Btu's and putting out more heat than your system on a 0F day while using about 1/2 the electricity. On a 47F day, it can put out about 4 times as much heat while using less than 1,400 watts.
Great Job! Once the weather gets above freezing, have some coil wash to clean the split coils, then test the system. You should see a better results. Plain water wash won’t deep clean it. Thank You!
vinegar wash followed by dish soap will work in a pinch too, inside air handler filter and coils are always a bigger issue for me though.
@@mpirron1 dish soap will leave a residue that collects more dirt. Commercial coil was will not pit aluminum like vinegar either.
Makes no difference at all, I cleaned my outdoor unit after three years 🤣Not a degree's difference. The layer of dirt is too thin to reduce efficiency. And believe me the outdoor coil was virtually clogged with dirt. Wasted my time.😁
@@sunnynexxt Sunny without a service modern meter and know what your reading your right, you can’t see any difference. Well maintained equipment lasts a lifetime. Lack of clean coils results are from premature compressor failure to other components over heating.
But if you saw no difference, research deeper.
Lic Universal A/C since 1990.
This is great information thanks so much for sharing. I noticed from your install video to this video you had finished your exterior pvc pipe on the mini split lines...wish you could have shown how you did that, it looks like you would have had to disconnect all your pressurized lines and start all over...Is that what happened?
Signature Solar has a ebay storefront, Innovair has a Amazon store front both out of stock.
Innovair has quit including the ' installation kit '. Also Innovair runs a pretend storefront called powersaveac. The end of july I bought this unit from Powersaveac, I haven't recevied a return phone, or email response yet. Innovair billed my card. and shipped the elite unit. Innovair customer service was quick to return my phone call. Chris was very helpful.
well thats working really well
So basically $25-$30 per month to keep your garage warm sounds pretty good. Of course if you can run it all off solar then that's even better! :)
Yeah, it's pretty nice. This is hard-wired into my off grid system, all solar.
@@DavidPozEnergy I am heating a big chunk of my house right now with a mini-split and three electric (oil) heaters. They are all running off the solar. I have mine set to 72F but here in Florida its only 55F outside. Note: I run all this stuff off individually switched transfer switches. So I can run them off the solar or the utility as needed. Typically I switch to utility at night but that will change when I get a bank of those LFP batteries that your running. Thanks!
@@DavidPozEnergy David what is the square footage of your shop/garage?
@@DavidPozEnergy I love your UA-cam channel your mini-split coincidentally was the talk of lunch today
Nice when the heat leaves you enough battery to do other things. Even in Canada that is less than a coffee a day.
😮 Omg Dave u was right I wasn't pressing the fan buttons fully I tried it while it was running on this low speed I stood in front of it and pressed each button firmly low medium and high and sure enough it started blowing hard like it supposed to 🙂
Hey, that's great to hear.
Thanks David.
What you have to do is figure efficiencies at different outside temps, I suspect the efficiency drops very low once you're in the teens. A couple of days ago it was 10 below Fahrenheit here so I don't think there would be any efficiency gain from a mini in those temps.
mosfet500, You are thinking like my uncle did in the 80's, when heat pumps where junk and could not collect a lot of heat on a 15F day. R-22 was a low pressure refrigerant, and would run in a vacuum at -10F, so could not collect much heat. Modern equipment, with variable speed compressors is much better and different than the single speed R-22 systems installed in the 80's.
I installed my 14 SEER 4 ton heat pump sized for my heating load in 2014, and never connected the back up electric heater. It has worked fine for almost 10 years, no back up heat EVER! That is because while my neighbors with a similar size (1850 square feet) would have a 2 ton or perhaps 2.5 ton system installed along with a 15 KW electric heater, they would rely mostly on that 15 KW 45,000 Btu electric heater on a cold night, not the 18,000 Btu's the heat pump can put out. So a 2 ton unit at 15F would put out about 15,000 Btu's while using about 2 KW of power. To get 15,000 Btu's with electric heaters, it takes about 4 KW. So running the heat pump still works better than the electric heater. They just need to size the heat pump for the load they expect at the temperature you can expect on a winter night.
Many contractors say "Well we install the electric heater to run on the coldest nights, because we do not install a system large enough to handle every cold night, and they have the back up heater for that." But the customer pays for running that back up electric heat every time it comes on!
My Goodman heat pump comes with a chart showing how much heat is collected at the rated 47F outside air temperature. It also shows 30F, 25, 20F, ect. So at 25F, the lowest temperature in my area, my 48,000 Btu unit can put out 28,000 Btu's while using about 3.2 KW and have a cop of about 2.2 (if I remember correctly). Most nights stay above 32F, so the COP is above 3. It has never been below 20F where I live.
The ductless unit shown in this video can produce near it's full rating at 5F because it has a variable speed compressor, and has a much larger outdoor coil in relation to the size installed in the 80's with s similar size compressor. Also it cab blow more air on a cold day than a similar sized unit in the 80's.
@@Kangenpower7 You're right!
Last Oct. (2022) I called for a home heating oil delivery, They told me oil was $5.25 a gallon. I said, "Don't deliver it!" That same day I bought a Senville Aura 12k mini split and all the tools to install it. It's been in since Nov. and I've been monitoring the power since then. My billing cycle is from the 15th to the 15th, from Dec. 15th to Jan. 15th heating my great room which is about 26x26 with a 14 foot ceiling. My energy usage for that period was ~250kWh at ~16 cents a kWh it cost us ~$40. When the outside temp is 30F it uses ~240 watts to heat the room. When the temps go up to about 45F of 50F it covers the whole house. I'm blown away! I'm buying another one to heat the back of the house this spring, my oil days are over!
thank you for this !!!
I've got 4 of them and 5.5 kw solar, grid available too. Right now I'm calibrating a light sensor to estimate available pv power and turn them on when power is plenty. (automagicly with Home Assistant) Yes they draw 1500W in cold starts, they need to pe started (or set to max temp) one by one. Outside condensation needs to be handled (I use buckets).
@marthale7 I do too. esphome ftw. If you're talking pv voltage, it's not really a measure of power. A panel oriented north will give almost the same voltage as normally would.
My Daikin and Mitsubishi electric ac units have something called demand controle. This reduces peak power consumption. It means that the outside compressor starts slowly. This reduces the peaks by slot!
Nice demo
Ours do we love them just keep them clean including the blower blades!
Did you notice the ratings on this unit compared to like units? On a scale of 14 to 30 The Seer rating was 38, and on a scale from 8 to 13 the hspf rating was 15. Pretty impressive!
I recently got a little Chinese meter like that one with the blue screen, except that mine is a DC meter. I decided to check the accuracy, and I'm glad I did. I have found that with mine the voltage is correct, but the amperage is way out of whack reading about 50% of the true value which of course affects the kilowatt hour readings.
I did find that, I have a couple of those meters, one on my tankless hot water, the reading on my tankless and the Chinese meter were almost identical. I also checked it against my clamp meter, is yours hooked up right?
@@mosfet500 Yes it is hooked up correctly, double checked before I added power. It seems to have straightened itself out now.
Thanks much👍👍🙂
Excellent
Ok, that amazes me. Either that shed is insulated to like R60 OR that mini-split is like a freak of efficiency (or, maybe a combo of the two!) - either way, at my power rates that would cost me less than $24/month to heat that shed. Wow! I'll have a look through your vids to see if there's one that details the shed's insulative specs...
haha I had the same thought - how big is that shed and what is the R-value??
I think the yellow sticker showed 38 SEER and HSPF of 15? 9,000 Btu's. Watch it again. At 1 minute and 50 seconds in this video. The thing is freaky efficient! However I would probably buy a lower cost and less SEER unit, then spend the savings on solar panels. I bought 2 KW of solar panels for $750 (they are used) and that would probably power a less efficient system for years.
I have to get one of these for my shop. Using propane heat and electric window unit at the moment. It's a power hog.
So apparently you went back to the Growatt?👌👍
Nice video Sir 🙂👍
Good video.
My geothermal heat pump heats my whole home, 2300 Sq. Ft.
It has a two stage heating and a soft start like your device. At the Temps you were describing it always runs in single stage. About 1.25 to 1.5 kilowatts an hour it uses at 20-30 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the 24 hour period. We've been having a lot of single digit and teens Temps and it will run in 2 stage off and on and use 2-2.5 kilowatts in a hour according to my pwrview app. I'm in Northern Michigan. So it uses 25 to 40 kilowatts a day mostly in the really cold couple months. It just depends how long the 0 and negative Temps hold out.
man, how'd you make the price work? I haven't been able to figure out a way yet to break-even before warranty expiration for anyone in Michigan or Texas. And that's with the govt money and doing the digging themselves.
I just replaced the geothermal this year. The other one was approximately 30 years old the previous owner installed and it was still working. It's an open loop system that was already installed. I'm getting close to retirement and I wanted a new one. The new preheats a 50 gallon hot water heater with it's excess energy somehow that's not hooked up to power and that goes into a functioning 50 gallon water heater. It was a little over 17 thousand before 26 percent for the system with two 50 gallon hot water heaters. I have no access to natural gas. I really like the geothermal furnace. Plus I run it in the summer for air conditioning. It's cheaper than the cost of using propane by a good amount every year.
@@vinsonhelton7141 thats cool, I've only been investigating closed loop systems, I like the idea, and imagine it would work out for htrosomeone who bought with one. So far we have found them to have the longest payback among all the new systems. Cheers.
I’m completely off grid in a very cold high desert climate in Colorado. Already planning my next project and would like to incorporate a mini split for sure. After seeing this though I need to be realistic and realize this wouldn’t suffice as the temps regularly drop into the single digits and my gas powered furnace is more efficient from a purely power consumption aspect. Maybe this should have been obvious but I’m still learning. I’m going to look into supplementing a mini spit with a boiler system and a wood burning stove I think.
Look into Mitsubishi H2i units. I'm a Mitsubishi DuctlessPro and I've had clients that their units never shut off even when we hit the polar vorte with Temps down to -25. If you have a boiler though, nothing will beat that. How are you going to supply gas to the boiler if you're off the grid though? A wood stove is also a very nice backup.
@@albowrx I’ll have to look into that, thanks! I’ve realized certain things are just easier on propane like water heater, stove, furnace and dryer so I have a 250 gallon propane tank and it seems like I’ll only need to refill it about once maybe twice a year.
Try some Solar Hot Water!
@@guiltfreehotwater4354 solar hot water is very inefficient from an ROI standpoint. Better to have a heatpump waterheater and PV to power it.
Then when water is at temperature you can put the electricity to use elsewhere.
Try cogeneration.
Have a generator installed in an enclosure that is venter by the heat pump.
Then you get electricity and heat from the generator for 100% efficient gas use.
Of course it would draw the full power if you turn it on to heat up a completely cold place. Its designed to fulfil your warm temperature setting asap, unless you set up some economy heat mode in which case it would not draw too much at a given time but would take longer to heat up.
I live in Canada and this pass winter I did use mine to heat. It does struggle at -31F (-35C) It stop working, (it pause the system until it warms up). I wanted to compare this vs our baseboard. This will take a other winter to compare utility bill.
Once it is below -20F I would recommend shutting off the heat pump, and wait for warmer weather. Your electric bill will be significantly lower than last winter. But check the cost per KW, as it might have increased a lot. So say you paid $0.04 per KW last winter, and now it is $0.05, if your bill stayed about the same, you did save a lot of energy used each month.
To compare to oil heater, to get 100,000 Btu's of heat, the oil burner would use about 1 gallon of fuel, or about $5 - $6. To run a electric heater, it will use about 23 KW, and at $0.05 per KW that is about $1.15. With a heat pump, it would be 5-8 KW of power or about $0.25 to $0.40 with your exceptionally low cost per KW in parts of Canada, due to all of that hydroelectricity they have.
My guess is at -30F, the low pressure switch is activated due to the compressor pulling a vacuum on the low pressure coil of the outdoor unit. This is normal, and will reset once it is above deadly cold. Yet running at -20F might cause the compressor to get "Slugged" with liquid refrigerant on those cold nights.
66f !? Way too cold here in Brandon Florida. We start to freeze in the mid 60s. 😂
I have a pioneer 18k mini split inverter drive the thing is amazing but I did have a problem this last week. Cold start at 4 deg. It could not keep up and it kept going in to defrost mode had to also run a electric heater. Next day was 14 and it ran perfect and heated the whole building again. So beware single digits it is hard for these units to heat always have a secondary heat source.
Depends on the age and model. I have the wyt model, 12k size. It output around 5k btu of heat while -10°F. Not bad for a system with a capillary tube.
@@sprockkets was yours from a cold start though? Mine may do alright if it was already running and just maintaining heat. But it's my shed to house build and I was just there for a few days to work on it. So it was a cold start and it couldn't perform. The next day it was like 14 deg and it did fine. And I am talking single digits and your saying 10 I know it's not a huge difference but still a difference.
@@johnscustomvinyl Depends. One time mine kept needing to defrost and that was due to ice it couldn't melt. I didn't actually think I'd use it so much I'm winter because I have natural gas and it's small and really for cooling. Then natural gas went up almost 2x in price so the heat pump was just as cheap and could heat where we mostly are on the first floor. It's on a stand for snow but it still has tons of ice from defrost and can't drain on the left anymore. Once I used hot water to melt the ice on the unit (do it while off!) it was able to better manage it. It's only defrosted once in like 3 days (checked via power monitoring).
Tldr ha in the last year all units from pioneer since 2019 are now rated to -13, instead of 5. It would make a difference, since mine doesn't lose punch till below 5.
Pretty sure that extra current is heater elements in the outside exchanger unit running so it does not freeze up. Kind of like a defrost mode on commercial split freezer units.
It is the compressor ramping up. Most mini split compressors are smaller than the rated output. They increase the Hertz to essentially over rev to stated capacity. Under normal operation it's running at 60% capacity or lower. They actually developed a special oil for these compressors to handle the much higher RPM. Think of it like a car engine that redlines at 7000rpm but to get extra power it will go to 12000rpm just need special oil and your fuel consumption will suffer just as energy usage does on these. This per a LG factory training class
Allan, I have never worked on any heat pump that has a electric heater on the outside unit. They use hot refrigerant gas to defrost the system, fairly quickly, and with very little energy. Commercial walk in freezers do use 240 volt 4-8 amp electric heaters in the defrost mode. Your home refrigerator would have a 120 volt 4-8 amp electric heater to defrost the freezer coil.
Most ductless systems do not have any form of back up heat. Some of the ducted systems use a 10 KW to 15 KW electric heater that is energized during defrost, and some even turn on the electric heater if your room temperature is more than 4F below the thermostat set point. This is very energy in-efficient. I put in a larger than needed heat pump at my house, and never connected the back up electric heater. I live in Portland Oregon, and the temperature never gets below about 23F. I have a 48,000 Btu 14 SEER unit that I installed in 2014, and it has worked fine. Sure I get cold air during the defrost cycle, but can put up with that to save energy. It only defrosts about 3-6 minutes every hour of run time.
So my house came with a 68,000 Btu 20 KW electric furnace. The prior owner said the electric bill was $400 once in January. But most are blow $130. I put in a 48,000 Btu heat pump, while most of my neighbors have a 24,000 to 30,000 Btu unit, and then have to run the back up heat on days below about 32F. Sadly they could avoid running the back up heater if their contractor had put in the larger unit.
My 48,000 Btu unit puts out 50,000 Btu's at 47F, it's rated temperature. At 35F, it is only 38,000 Btu's and at 25F only 28,000 Btu's. So I sized mine to the 23F working temperature, and am very happy with the results.
The new ductless units have a variable speed compressor, so can speed up when turned on and the room temperature is well below the set point, so in the demonstration, they compressor was probably running on 85 Hz or 120 hz, until the room was about 65F, then slow to a normal 60 hz. Then use only about 200 watts per hour the rest of the 24 hour long test! That is pretty good and shows this unit is crazy efficient!
I wish there were more “off the shelf” air to water heat pumps available like there are mini-splits. Then he could have integrated into his hydronic loop. There was a mini-split heat pump available from hotspotenergy that has a desuperheater for hot water, but it isn’t available anymore :-/
There's a company called Arctic Heat Pumps that build heat pumps just for air to water.
@@GregsStoneYard Yeah, they make great stuff, it's just expensive.
There are several companies in England that produce air to water heat pumps to replace boiler systems. However that is not the most energy efficient way to heat a home. I would rather install a air to air ductless system in the living room, and use that to provide most of the heat to the home. And maybe a air to water heat pump to supply hot water to the domestic drinking water. Then use the boiler until it dies of old age, for the few hours a month X 2 months a year that the heat pump is not heating all of the home enough.
One guy in England has a UA-cam channel and described how he went from a oil heating system to all electric system to heat his house, and is saving a lot of money each year. He also has special electric rates, much lower at night. So he heats the home to about 72F on the nighttime lower cost rates, then lets the home cool to about 60F before the night time low electric rate comes back at night. He also has some solar, and will run the heaters on the solar PV produced power during the day - only if required.
However if this guy had put in a ductless heat pump, like the one shown in this video, he could cut his heating bill in 1/2 again. 500 gallons of home heating oil in England would cost over $4,000 in dollars to fill it - every 6 weeks would be really expensive way to heat your home. Electric heat was only about $150 - $200 a month if he only used the electric heaters at the lower night time rates.
Oil heating in America can take 1 gallon of fuel (about $4- $6 per gallon here) and heat the home with about 100,000 Btu's of heat. To heat it with a electric heater, it is about 23 KW and a heat pump 5-8 KW. So heat pump is clearly the lowest cost per 100,000 Btu's. Those using gas or propane can expect to use 1.2 gallons of propane or 1.2 therms of natural gas to get 100,000 Btu's of heat.
How big is the garage? You should do a calculation to see how it compares to prediction. That is, compute your total expected loss based on sq ft and R value, and efficiency of unit. Then compare to actual loss.
Same i would like to know the size of the space in cubic feet
Dave, I wonder what your DC amp draw was.
At some point can you go over conversion of DC to AC amps and sizing of a inverter to meet needs.
My toshiba minisplit can blow 75 celsius,almost 170 Fahrenheit at freezing temperature,good stuff
Nice! Any idea what the current draw is if it goes into defrost mode? Thank you
heya david I'm thinking of a mini split but would like to see some more specs like btu and how big your garage is
Okay this is cool
@DavodPoz. God has blessed u with a talent! Good job in using it well! I live in Florida and would LOVE to know of there is any way to put my pool pump, hot water tank, and ac on solar systems. I dont want a company that hooks me to the controllable grid. I have R-30 blanket insulation throughout and it helps immensely
Heatpump for pool and house.
Take heat from house and put it in pool.
There's a California (maybe texas) guy who modified his heat pump to be able to move heat to and from pool, outdoors, and inside.
Heated pool and cooled house during day and would cool pool at night.
Huge AC savings.
Great video I would like to know if it can keep up heating your garage when the temperature drops to 5 below 0 or 0 degree. Thank you.
Some work down to -22
It also helps with these units to build something over the top to keep the snow and ice off the unit Makes them last longer and more efficient
Dave Wilson, the outdoor units are made to be in the snow, and should be raised above the predicted snow level, with bricks or something. (Don't attach to a wall, it will act like a small speaker at a low frequency, to transmit that sound into your home at a very high noise level). Putting anything over the unit will restrict air flow, and cause problems. They need about 3,000 cubic feet of new air to go through them every minute. Put a umbrella over it (yes I have seen this on a service call) and the customer thinks they are saving energy keeping the unit out of the sun, and the 130F discharge air is blown back into the intake, and it will not cool well at all! Removed the umbrella, and soon the 95F air from the area was blowing into the unit, and discharge air was only 110F.
I've been curious about the viability of adding a thermosiphon to air source heat pumps as a way to get a relatively low cost ground source addition, if but to reduce/eliminate defrosting.
I worked on a larger heat pump system at my work, where 15 dorm rooms have a 7,000 Btu indoor unit and are connected to a 480 volt 96,000 Btu outdoor unit. They had a variable defrost, where the top section defrosted more often than a "Full defrost" that included the lower section too. I think they only defrosted about twice a day with ambient temperatures in the 20's and 30's. Defrosting really does not consume all that much energy, especially with a variable speed unit shown in this video.
One of the units that I worked on had a water heater / chiller connected to it, and to a make up air unit. They had a water coil in that make up air unit, and it would provide 75F water in the winter to pre-heat the air going to the rooms, while in the summer it could provide 55F water to cool the air a little bit in the summer.
So such a water system connected to a heat pump might be a source of heat in the winter, and lower the operating costs, and on a hot day be able to "Dump" some heat into the earth to lower the operating pressures of the heat pump. But it comes down to a math problem. Say I invested a extra $6,000 on this system. How much money would it save each year? $50? $100? Maybe not more than $75. So it would take a really long time to pay for that well, 300 feet of tubing, the refrigerant to water loop heat exchanger, water pump, and anything else required to make it work right.
The 6.6Kwh did not include from a cold start which would have a more realistic measurement in alignment with the most use cases. Nonetheless it can be roughly calculated to be approximately 1.4Kwh extra.
The way I personally use my mini-split is this: I only touch the remote those two times a year, once in the spring switching to cooling, and once in the fall to switch to heating. If I had measured the electricity consumption from a cold start that would have been realistic for only two days a year.
Nice, got to like the heated coils. Really pulls the amps though heating up the coils. I wish the one I was going to buy had heated coils like yours. I vote for a test with another heater type too. Makes me wonder since your garage was so warm without it running maybe regular heater would do it just as well.
Great video. I was wondering, if you have utility gas connection, wouldn't it be better to have a gas heater instead and run it on need basis?
That depends, the efficiency when heating goes down as the temprature outside drops, however under standard testing conditions this unit only requires 1 watt of electricity to give 15 watts of heating (so says the sticker), so under these conditions your gas prices per unit of energy would have to be (1/.8)/15 the cost of electricity (this is assuming 80% thermal efficiency which is pretty typical of a vented gas heater) to save any money using gas, so purely from a cost perspective it would be hard to justify installing a gas heater assuming you already have one of these for a/c during the summer
There is a problem though, as tempratures drop the ammount of heat needed to keep the same inside temprature goes up, meanwhile the ammount of heat the mini split is able to move goes down as it has a limited ammount of power it can draw and the efficiency goes down with the outside temprature, so you may reach a point where the mini split simply cant keep up with demand and auxilary heat is needed
So unless gas is very cheap or you are in a very cold climate its not that worth it to add gas if you're just heating a garage, in a house or some other critical application you definitely want it for those couple days that are going to be just too cold for it.
In the Northeast US, a utility gas connection incurs significant expense just to get a bill - all the utilities have “basic” monthly charges independent of use and when that is added to the unit cost, it is an expensive back up system to primarily electric heating.
Check out your electric and gas bill, then figure out how much 100,000 Btu's of heat will cost. So lets say you pay $2 per therm for natural gas, and it takes about 1.2 therms of gas to provide 100,000 Btu's of heat. About $2.40.
With a electric heater it would take 23 KW and if you pay $0.15 per KW this is $3.45, So don't do that!
With this heat pump, he is running from solar, so if the sun comes up, the cost is free! However if paying for the electricity at $0.15 per KW, the cost would be about $0.50 to buy 3 - 4 KW to collect 100,000 Btu's of heat. Most heat pumps would use 5-8 KW, but this model shown in the video is crazy efficient, so with a SEER rating of 38, it is one of the very best energy efficient units around.
Now if his house is located about 1 mile from the nearest natural gas line, it would add significant cost to put in a gas line, like $15,000. Beyond 1 mile, they probably would not install a natural gas line. So heat pump is going to cost much less to run.
Our units keep the entire house warm no matter the outside temp. The only real issue is the fact that they don't actually heat high enough to kill off the bacteria and algae/mold that can develop in the system. You've got to spray them with vinegar or other solution from time to time to prevent buildup like that, especially in a humid environment. We use our as a dehumidifier in the summer that lowers the temps to a very comfortable level without having to use the A/C at all.
we have large ozone generator that we use twice a year for 1 hour in each room - no more mold, smells, insects anything. Highly recommend to use it to keep house healthy
That spike might have been a defrost/deicing cycle.
I don't think it needs to immediately defrost after start, it takes time to freeze the external unit. Maybe it's to make sure the poe oil return properly in the compressor, especially in cold condtitions when it doesn't mix well with refrigerant fluid
Or just resistors that separate oil and ref fluid to start the compressor properly
I'm surprised I've never seen one that recirculates inside air to make it more efficient in colder climates.
Never been "first" before 🤣. Thanks for the video David!
I have a mini split on my garage wall - every time I get a service visit to fill the coolant fluid, they jerk me around & never fill it. No doubt wanting another service call. They would be a nice item if easier to fill the coolant yourself
Mother taracey, You might need another service company. Your unit should never need to have coolant added to it on a regular basis. If they are trying to sell you coolant every service call, it is a sure sign that the company is ripping you off. On the other hand, if this company is not trying to sell you coolant with every service, and you are not needing to call them for service between the annual inspections, you are with a honest company now.
Sadly, I think that one company that serviced your equipment in the past got you thinking they actually need more refrigerant every year! And that would be the dis-honest employee or perhaps you had a very old system that leaked. They should have fixed the leak, and then you should go 10+ years without needing to add any refrigerant.
Per the EPA regulations, we are not allowed to keep topping up a leaking system, it would be a violation of the EPA laws. Please do not think a system will need additional coolant every year. Not even every 5 years. The system at my home is now 9 years old, never needed to add any refrigerant to it.
I'm more amazed that the garage only lost 2F with it 14F outside.
I am sure it was mentioned in some other video, but what is the square footage of your garage and how is it insulated?
Good Morning David. I have installed 48V batteries and a Growatt 5000 inverter. How do you suggest I set the Max and Minimum battery charge? I am just testing. I really enjoy you videos and have pushed me to this project, going well.
That will depend on your batteries. Personally, I'm running EG4(Gyll) batteries from Signature Solar, which are 16s LiFePO4. I set my voltage range 48.0-56.0V Check your battery spec sheet or user manual for what yours require.
Those are what I bought. Thank you for your help
Great 👍 content .. however this seems like the 3rd mini split unit you have installed in the same space .. why do you keep changing them? What happened to the Mr. cool?
This is the first mini split in my garage
How many square feet is that garage?
Look at this guy in tshirt weather! Thats def not a cold start!
I use one on a boat .
So i have airco and heating .
And yes its is my home.
I have the exact same model of heatpump, but it's sold as a wilfa. Cheap and nice. What is a mini split?
Consider converting the AC opening into a window.
Hi David remember " some " of these units have heating elements outside it will kick in in " defrost mode " so AMPS will rise...
some eaven have them in the indoor unit ...⚡️⚡️
so you should check that out 👍
Current consumption of 1.7-1.8 Amps - does the air conditioner work for heat? AC mains voltage ~110-127 Volts ?
just looking for a reference of how many square feet you are trying to heat. Also what type of insulation in the walls and ceilings
About 1200 square feet. Check out these two videos to see how I insulated the garage: ua-cam.com/video/s9Pmt7XG_2c/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/k8g9Q___CJ0/v-deo.html
can you do the test again but at like 78-80?
Was it on a defrost cycle they have a heat strip in the bottom that will turn on
Thats mild, it's going to be -10 F tonight here!
That is amazing efficiency! I want one. My central heat natural gas furnace depletes two 5KW battery packs every night and it only gets down to 26 degrees F. here in central CA. And this month my gas bill is $400. up from $200. last year in January. That unit would probably have saved me over $1k in one winter. Do they sell one that size, that runs on 120 volts?
This one is 120V. Plus, you can add solar to it if you want to, but not required. signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-ac-dc-solar-air-conditioner-1-ton/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF-
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks for the quick response. Have you ever rann it for 24hrs at a higher temp, , say 72, it would be interesting to see how much the KW would increase? And how big is that shop that it's in?
Tom Hanway, You could get a heat pump to heat your home, and I might recommend a 18,000 Btu unit in the living room. Then if you needed to run your gas furnace, it would only run a few minutes, and only on the very cold days. However with your higher electric rates, it might not save you as much as you might think. The 18,000 Btu unit is run on 240 volts. 12,000 is run on either 120 or you can buy a 240 volt unit.
The cost for 100,000 Btu's of heat is about 1.2 therms of gas, or you can run a heat pump using about 5 - 8 KW of electric. Check your prices, and you will find the heat pump will cost less to run, but might be expensive to install. Get several quotes. If you are paying $3 per therm, it would cost you $3.60. If the electric is $0.20 per KW then about $1.50 to provide the same amount of heat. But I have no clue what your costs are.
Also check your home for air leaks. If you are heating the attic through a leaking air duct that fell apart, then the cost per month will be significantly higher.
I installed a $900 18,000 Btu heat pump that is only 17 SEER for my neighbor. A 21 SEER unit is about $1,200 on Amazon. He could afford the $900 unit, not the more expensive one. He will still need to run his electric heater a little bit on the very cold days, when it is in the upper 20's. We never saw 20F here in the past 10 years. The heat pump should cut his power bill in 1/2. He was running a electric furnace, at 23 KW per 100,000 Btu's.
The heat pump in this video is 38 SEER, so will use about 1/2 of the power of a 17 SEER unit. However the cost to buy it will be a lot more!
Fyi, My mini split similar to yours, its heat pump shutdowns when outside temperature is just under -6 C and restarts itself when -3 C is reached.
Not all “mini splits” are the same, if you live in the NE US like David, you’d want a “cold climate” version that will produce heat down below 0 F, not 0 C, many go between -4 F and -17 F before they freeze protect themselves.
probably should mention the sq ft of garage for reference and even height or cu ft.