Ah yes very on brand for you to just find a fucking mold of a dragon outside in a weird aussie wizard backyard and completely ignore any potential bad juju it contains within
Gonna be real, you've recently become one of my personal heroes. You really embody the whole 'trying is the only way to fail and failing is the only way to succeed' mentality which is a mindset I've really been struggling to keep myself in to, but watching you share your process is super motivating to keep embracing the idea that failure is only failure if you stop trying so genuinely from the bottom of my heart thank you for that.
Exactly the same here! Your videos seriously jump-start my motivation and I've completed so many dumb little projects since subscribing to your channel
I guess failing to stay in the mindset it part of succeeding right! There is no one ze mould and were all cast differently and we can all break our own moulds x wait aswell aslo success can be something we dont expect so its not necessarily failing when we think it is, its an experiment, also how do we know what were capable of or how does anyone come up with anything different. If you think abut it only things that exist fit into categories so something that might be better may currently be defined as a mistake in the current paradigm?
I remember watching a squidmar video. I think it was how to become a better painter or something. The one thing I always remember and sticks with me from that video was never wait to paint a miniature you want to paint because you don't think you're good enough or it's too complex. Because that's how you improve and grow. Also if you don't do the stuff you want to do you might lose interest doing the boring, easy, repetitive things.
Thanks for an edit that didn't make me look like an incompetent weirdo! I am still very much learning all the time (we all are) and having you in my studio is a wonderful pleasure! Just to clarify, the mold wasn't buried in the ground ... it was buried under a bunch of other crap in the backyard when I moved in, along with a SECOND dragon mold of a completely different dragon! The adventures continue? :D
18:00 this guy is 100% my favorite of your metal models. I can’t wait until he’s available! Idk I just like how lame he looks-he’s got this perfect bored expression and I adore that he’s holding a lance while on foot (maybe he’s a squire, maybe he’s just a weirdo that didn’t get the memo on lances.)
The "I'll do this when I have that" mind set is a defiant creativity killer that I think we all go through. Glad to see you pushed past that. Great video as always.
I can't believe you took a cursed mold, buried for the world's own good, and managed to create a really baller model out of it. I especially like that bat-headed rider (with what appears to be Nighthaunt parts as well?). Can't wait to see it painted.
Man I cannot truly explain how much your videos inspire me to do creative stuff and push even when I'm in a super big art block, I just wanted to tell you how awesome it is to see you more often these days and how insightful your creative process and philosophy is even to those that are not as inside into the hobby
These vlogs are taking on a life of their own. They are inspiring to loads of people, including myself. You are rekindling my creative drive by saying to just do it and failure is accepted.
Your videos are such an inspiration and motivation for every kind of hobby. The "who cares if it is perfect, if it's fun and works." mentality makes you in my opinion the best. I wish i could watch your videos for the first time again.
Love it. The Goof Dragon and his rider turned out great. Thanks for the insight into the metal minis and for attempting to do cool things and try new stuff. Helps me overcome a lot of hesitation in my own art.
The honesty you shared in this video about procrastination, fear of not being prefect and the 'give it a go whats the worst that will happen' attitude earned you a sub from me.
I've printed bases flat on the plate. The only issue with doing it that way is the possible loss in detail (If there is any) because it's not spread out over as many layers. I pretty much always choose to print things flat on the plate if it's possible. The elephants foot can be sanded off easily enough. And you will save a lot of resin!
Words cannot express how perfect it would be for Miscast's miniatures to come with actual, bona-fide miscast miniatures. Like, the marketing writes itself.
Thank you for embracing errors and problems while creating, and showing them to us ! I think we all need to hear that it’s ok to make mistakes, that’s what makes us humans after all. I love more the things I struggled with or what I was scared to start crafting because it’s what makes me grow as an artist. Continue your wonderful creations and videos, at your own pace !
Another super inspiring video. This is absolutely the mindset I'm trying have with the hobby side of things. Can't wait to get my toad and a little miscast Miscast critter ❤
Trent, I recommend getting a flex plate for your 3-D printer; that way you can print bases directly on the build plate without support, and just bend the flex plate when you’re done printing - they will pop right off. I know you’re not a big fan of 3-Dprinting but I do recommend, getting a slightly better one than the one you have now if you’re going to be creating masters, as speed and accuracy of printers in more recent years is better than the one you have.
awesome, I didn't know I could get a flex plate for resin. I have access to nice printers when I need them, but I like using the one I have because it's accessible for the people watching. :)
On this note, I’ve been experimenting with bases flat on the build plate and using lychees hole tool to begat suction forces. Afterwards you obviously have a hole in your print but a little up torch and dabbing/painting on some resin out of the vat has been working a treat to make that disappear.
@@Miscast RE: flex plate. The one I have for my saturn is the official whambam one, but there are other companies that do it as well. Just make sure they have the exact measurements of your build plate. Re: nicer printers, I didn't mean go out and spend $1000 to get an 8k one, but I THINK the one you have is before they started implementing mono screens? In terms of accessibility, I think anyone getting into the hobby now would be purchasing one with a mono screen. Even the Mars 2 Pro I bought back in 2020 was a mono screen. Just something to keep in mind.
I think theres a great lesson here. Irreverent "just do it". Don't wait to be better, don't wait for the perfect time. Neither will ever come. Just jump in and try it and don't be afraid to break some rules. Besides, you'll always learn better and more when there's something on the line and it's something you really wanna do than if it's disposable and your heart isn't in it. When theres steaks, we'll work harder. If you're unafraid of failure, you'll go so much further
I love your approach! People parroting newby advice can seriously limit you. Printing at a 45° angle is a newby rule. Its meant to help new printers to not rip their FEP, avoid failed supports and get solid results without a lot of work. But you dont need to. Printing directly on the buildplate has two big disadvantages ... one is the lip ... sometimes called elephants foot. This comes from the burn in layers... the first few layers where your printer shines the UV light 15 times as long compared to average layers so the print sticks with the plate for the whole process. This overexposure leads to more material hardening. If you print on supports at your angle thats fine ... you throw the base away anyway. If you print directly on the plate you could reduce the exposuretime of your burn in layers. Since you are printing bases you might get away with it without peeling your print of the buildplate midprint. Those burn in layers are meant to secure a print the size of your resinvat after all... so with some tiny bases they are total overkill. Have a try! Reduce the exposure times until you are either happy with the result or frustrated by the ammount of failures. The second problem with printing on the buildplate is the removal of your print. If you scrape it off with a metal spatula you will likely damage the printing. If again you just scrape off the base of the supports.. fine who cares? Thats just junk. If it's your print you will either need to fix the nicks from the spatula with greenstuff or smth. or need to find another way. What worked really well for me was the realisation that UV resin turns very soft from heat. So if I print directly on the buildplate I give it a short bath in IPA to remove exess resin and then in water around 50°C this removes excess IPA AND softens the resin to the point where I can remove it with a plastic spatula instead of a metal one. Experiment with your resin to see what temperatures work for you et voila... you can print on the buildplate now. And I am sure there are other methods as well! Btw. The eggshape distortion prolly comes from undercuring your print. If the UV resin still has some flex to it it will stretch midprint resulting in the eggshaped bases. My recommended fixes would be to change the printing angle to remove the suction forces stretching the print OR to dial up exposure times to harden the resin to a point where it wont stretch. Have fun :-)
Have you considered using a deep pour epoxy, like the ones used in woodworking, for these big pours? They don't need vacuum to remove bubbles because they just take ages to cure. I'm not sure what they would be like in casting miniatures, but it might be interesting.
No worries, the important info is why I buy the products I do, not so much the brand in particular. I've bought all sorts of brands and they all perform the same in my experience if I know what I'm looking for. I just buy what is cheapest/easily avalible most of the time :)
@@Miscast great advice! It was useful to hear how you go about selecting what kind of material you want for the job at hand... Material knowledge like that comes through lots of testing so I appreciate sharing your experience!
This is my new favourite channel. It's basically what I do all week at work as a carpenter/builder; trying stuff, plans failing, finding solutions, having fun. It's super relaxing to watch someone focused on the joy of process, as opposed to obsession with outcome.
"focused on the joy of process, as opposed to obsession with outcome" ok but why is this such a bar i'm absolutely stealing this quote, thank you kind traveler
Their is a special place in my head I can only reach from watching your videos I love all the stuff you do and you are probably my favourite creator on UA-cam, keep it up treant. We all love you dude
someone's probably commented this already, but I do know of a way to print bases flat against the print bed, and that's to have a small chamfer inwards on the bottom of the base. It adds a bit of extra thickness to the base but actually works really well, I've never had any issue printing flat bases when using bases that have that construction. I first came across this with Arbiter Miniatures, they call it "easy slip". They do it on round bases but I see no reason it couldn't work for hex bases or square bases too.
Watching your videos is kind of like when my 3yrold niece gets hold of my phone and records a video. And I mean that with all the love in my heart. It's chaotic and entertaining and full of love for your craft.
if you want to print flat on the build plate just get a magnetic build plate, stops the risk of chipping the rim when removing the base and leave a nice clean bottom. the elephant footing can be solved by tapering in the bottom slightly to account for the burn in layers
I absolutely love watching your videos, your process, your process thoughts, and just taking in the overall good vibes. You always have great advice/philosophic thoughts for hobbiests, newb or veteran, and really make everything you do so inviting and exciting for anyone else to try their hand at. Thanks!
You make me SO happy every time I see a new video posted. Every video you inspire me to get off my butt and try (currently just collecting random junk that I can chop up and create into something later) Cheers Trent 🍻
Keep fiddling with printing your bases flat. You will figure it out and it will save a huge amount of time (and more). I've been printing bases flat on a flex plate for years (on both a Mars 2 Pro and Saturn). Definitely the best way to do it. Even detailed bases with large raised portions on top will generally print flat with no supports. If dialed in correctly it is possible to eliminate your elephant foot issue as well, but if that is proving too hard just sand the base with the flat side down on a wet drywall sanding screen for 5 seconds per base. Many benefits to printing this way: less resin, bottom comes out perfectly flat, print time is at minimum twice as fast as 45 degree angled prints but for larger diameter bases you will save much more time. I try to print any miniature with a flat face this way (not just bases) and any terrain piece or scatter that will always be sitting on one flat side.
If you were in South Africa, it would be called load shedding. Power goes off for 2 to 4 hours at a time. Some areas stay off for up to 3 days sometimes
So on 3d printing flat on the plate. I do this all the time with actual size purity seals I make for larp. And yeah the benifit is there's no waste and it's a 20 minute print. The trick to getting them off is to slide the scraper along the plate with more force than you think is ok and after a little bit you'll figure out how hard you can hit them without chipping them that often.
LOL I *KNEW* that was gonna happen with the Pump... that Resin would go into the tube... though if you get a new Tube it should be ok, i guess... unless you bunt the bump up.
When I first started gaming and painting miniatures our minis were lead and so was all out gas. I remember when that became an OMG thing and "pewter" minis came on the scene.
after mixing millput leave it for 10 to 20 mins and it starts to harden then its perfect for placing in the base mold or you could dust the mold with some baking soda or flour or corn starch
Love the crafting minis stuff and how you go about sharing it :) I recently made a post about a process i hadnt seen used in 3d printing/mold making, essentially printing molds for the molds. (its apparently called Match Plate Casting) The actual pewter casting didnt go well as the parts were very thin and small (1/16 track links for a Panzer 2) but the process for getting molds worked and i think you might find it to be of interest. Search for "I tried "Reverse" mold making -> thought id share it." and it should come up.
i recently done a conversion for a Warhammer 40k chaplain dreadnought that i'd put off for years because i didn't think i was good enough, instead what happened is i never done conversion work, so the only thing for it was to try, and it's turned out fantastically
It is good to remember that not all rules apply to all situations, no matter how much they seem akin to a "universal" truth (in that space). I've worked on tabletop game design and philosophy a lot and some folks are EXTREMELY quick to assume that certain approaches are entirely invalid because they are only seeing them in the context of one particular, unquestioned design ethos. And as you mentioned: If it turns out to not work, then oh well. Bet it won't all be a waste. c:
I have had a weird renaissance with metal miniatures recently as in they are the only mini's I want to paint and own. Somehow they seem to have a lot more character, I look forward to being able to purchase some of your creations in the future.
Your videos bring me so much joy, I want to thank you for it. Time and time again you show me how to follow my passion, and I really like your editing and pacing. Greetings from germany!
As a 3D Printing company owner, sometimes it is fine to print on the buildplate it self. Yes...printing in a 45° is mostly fail proof...but objects like the bases, are fine to do in the plate it self. And, it safes loads of time! When I print for my 1/3000 scale project, I print the buildings on the plate. A 30 minutes wait and done. 25% fail....fine.... I'll print them again and again if needed. Parts are always re-usable and it is quite fast. I understand your view. And lets rebel against the 'always print in 45°'!
We have very different design styles but I really appreciate your work, the effort you put into your videos, and just how authentic you are! I am stoked because I was able to snag one of this last round of toads you just released and I plan on casting it and then maybe even modifying it and recasting it. Keep up the awesome work!
One work around to print your bases flat on the build plate and get the results you're after is to modify your 3D model to account for the elephant's foot that occurs during your initial layers. Also Nerdtronic made a video worth checking out and even made an app to help out in this regard.
Great video! I've found Sirayatech Blu to be the toughest 3d resin I've used. It can also be blended with their Tenacious resin to make it slightly less brittle. I've successfully machined parts printed with the stuff. It might stand up to your molding process. If you print at 45 degrees and your parts are heavy they will stretch in the z axis, that's my experience anyway. If I print at 45 degrees I always hollow them down to 1 mm wall thickness with drain holes to make them as light as possible. I find if I need parts to be perfectly round (or they need to be solid resin) I need to print flat and parallel to the build plate.
as for the bases, print them at 1 mm too high (or 0.6), have it cone inward, so you can scrape it off easier from the buildplate as well, then use a sander, or even sandpaper to get to ride of the 'access' at the bottom. Removing the access is a matter of seconds per base, but it comes with the bonus of having an ultra smooth bottom layer. (you may have to build yourself a sandig jig, since you cant hold your bases well - but it should be pretty easy as long as you make 1 jig per base diameter, so you can inversely slot them in, then sand them safely and near instantly) At least on the phrozen mini 8k, with aqua grey 4k resin, this works pretty well for me
Ah yes very on brand for you to just find a fucking mold of a dragon outside in a weird aussie wizard backyard and completely ignore any potential bad juju it contains within
this comment rules
He's clearly never seen Braindead/Dead Alive!
Nope, he loved my comment. He kicks ass for the Hobby!
I read "juju it" as junji ito
This mold was made for me!
Gonna be real, you've recently become one of my personal heroes. You really embody the whole 'trying is the only way to fail and failing is the only way to succeed' mentality which is a mindset I've really been struggling to keep myself in to, but watching you share your process is super motivating to keep embracing the idea that failure is only failure if you stop trying so genuinely from the bottom of my heart thank you for that.
Exactly the same here! Your videos seriously jump-start my motivation and I've completed so many dumb little projects since subscribing to your channel
I guess failing to stay in the mindset it part of succeeding right! There is no one ze mould and were all cast differently and we can all break our own moulds x wait aswell aslo success can be something we dont expect so its not necessarily failing when we think it is, its an experiment, also how do we know what were capable of or how does anyone come up with anything different. If you think abut it only things that exist fit into categories so something that might be better may currently be defined as a mistake in the current paradigm?
I remember watching a squidmar video. I think it was how to become a better painter or something. The one thing I always remember and sticks with me from that video was never wait to paint a miniature you want to paint because you don't think you're good enough or it's too complex. Because that's how you improve and grow. Also if you don't do the stuff you want to do you might lose interest doing the boring, easy, repetitive things.
Emil says some great stuff, great guy!
Thanks for an edit that didn't make me look like an incompetent weirdo! I am still very much learning all the time (we all are) and having you in my studio is a wonderful pleasure! Just to clarify, the mold wasn't buried in the ground ... it was buried under a bunch of other crap in the backyard when I moved in, along with a SECOND dragon mold of a completely different dragon! The adventures continue? :D
18:00 this guy is 100% my favorite of your metal models. I can’t wait until he’s available! Idk I just like how lame he looks-he’s got this perfect bored expression and I adore that he’s holding a lance while on foot (maybe he’s a squire, maybe he’s just a weirdo that didn’t get the memo on lances.)
The "I'll do this when I have that" mind set is a defiant creativity killer that I think we all go through. Glad to see you pushed past that. Great video as always.
I can't believe you took a cursed mold, buried for the world's own good, and managed to create a really baller model out of it. I especially like that bat-headed rider (with what appears to be Nighthaunt parts as well?). Can't wait to see it painted.
Agreed, it looks so weird and creepy I love it
Saw no failures here dude
Your mindset towards the hobby is always inspiring
I love the more consistent uploads, every time I see you've uploaded i get this dumb grin on my face, I'm absolutely loving the content man keep it up
Man I cannot truly explain how much your videos inspire me to do creative stuff and push even when I'm in a super big art block, I just wanted to tell you how awesome it is to see you more often these days and how insightful your creative process and philosophy is even to those that are not as inside into the hobby
These vlogs are taking on a life of their own. They are inspiring to loads of people, including myself. You are rekindling my creative drive by saying to just do it and failure is accepted.
Fantastic to hear. Thank you.
Your videos are such an inspiration and motivation for every kind of hobby. The "who cares if it is perfect, if it's fun and works." mentality makes you in my opinion the best.
I wish i could watch your videos for the first time again.
Love it. The Goof Dragon and his rider turned out great. Thanks for the insight into the metal minis and for attempting to do cool things and try new stuff. Helps me overcome a lot of hesitation in my own art.
The honesty you shared in this video about procrastination, fear of not being prefect and the 'give it a go whats the worst that will happen' attitude earned you a sub from me.
I've printed bases flat on the plate. The only issue with doing it that way is the possible loss in detail (If there is any) because it's not spread out over as many layers. I pretty much always choose to print things flat on the plate if it's possible. The elephants foot can be sanded off easily enough. And you will save a lot of resin!
Words cannot express how perfect it would be for Miscast's miniatures to come with actual, bona-fide miscast miniatures. Like, the marketing writes itself.
Thank you for embracing errors and problems while creating, and showing them to us ! I think we all need to hear that it’s ok to make mistakes, that’s what makes us humans after all.
I love more the things I struggled with or what I was scared to start crafting because it’s what makes me grow as an artist.
Continue your wonderful creations and videos, at your own pace !
Thank you!!
Another super inspiring video. This is absolutely the mindset I'm trying have with the hobby side of things. Can't wait to get my toad and a little miscast Miscast critter ❤
Trent, I recommend getting a flex plate for your 3-D printer; that way you can print bases directly on the build plate without support, and just bend the flex plate when you’re done printing - they will pop right off. I know you’re not a big fan of 3-Dprinting but I do recommend, getting a slightly better one than the one you have now if you’re going to be creating masters, as speed and accuracy of printers in more recent years is better than the one you have.
awesome, I didn't know I could get a flex plate for resin. I have access to nice printers when I need them, but I like using the one I have because it's accessible for the people watching. :)
On this note, I’ve been experimenting with bases flat on the build plate and using lychees hole tool to begat suction forces.
Afterwards you obviously have a hole in your print but a little up torch and dabbing/painting on some resin out of the vat has been working a treat to make that disappear.
@@Miscast RE: flex plate. The one I have for my saturn is the official whambam one, but there are other companies that do it as well. Just make sure they have the exact measurements of your build plate. Re: nicer printers, I didn't mean go out and spend $1000 to get an 8k one, but I THINK the one you have is before they started implementing mono screens? In terms of accessibility, I think anyone getting into the hobby now would be purchasing one with a mono screen. Even the Mars 2 Pro I bought back in 2020 was a mono screen. Just something to keep in mind.
So good Trent! Can't wait for those minis to be on sale aswell. Your energy is soooo contagious!
“That’s probably gonna fail, but we do it anyway”
Love it
this is cool! I like that dragon rider 🙂
thankyou brent!!
I think theres a great lesson here. Irreverent "just do it". Don't wait to be better, don't wait for the perfect time. Neither will ever come. Just jump in and try it and don't be afraid to break some rules. Besides, you'll always learn better and more when there's something on the line and it's something you really wanna do than if it's disposable and your heart isn't in it. When theres steaks, we'll work harder. If you're unafraid of failure, you'll go so much further
I love your fail forwards attitude
I love your approach! People parroting newby advice can seriously limit you. Printing at a 45° angle is a newby rule. Its meant to help new printers to not rip their FEP, avoid failed supports and get solid results without a lot of work. But you dont need to. Printing directly on the buildplate has two big disadvantages ... one is the lip ... sometimes called elephants foot. This comes from the burn in layers... the first few layers where your printer shines the UV light 15 times as long compared to average layers so the print sticks with the plate for the whole process. This overexposure leads to more material hardening. If you print on supports at your angle thats fine ... you throw the base away anyway. If you print directly on the plate you could reduce the exposuretime of your burn in layers. Since you are printing bases you might get away with it without peeling your print of the buildplate midprint. Those burn in layers are meant to secure a print the size of your resinvat after all... so with some tiny bases they are total overkill. Have a try! Reduce the exposure times until you are either happy with the result or frustrated by the ammount of failures.
The second problem with printing on the buildplate is the removal of your print. If you scrape it off with a metal spatula you will likely damage the printing. If again you just scrape off the base of the supports.. fine who cares? Thats just junk. If it's your print you will either need to fix the nicks from the spatula with greenstuff or smth. or need to find another way. What worked really well for me was the realisation that UV resin turns very soft from heat. So if I print directly on the buildplate I give it a short bath in IPA to remove exess resin and then in water around 50°C this removes excess IPA AND softens the resin to the point where I can remove it with a plastic spatula instead of a metal one. Experiment with your resin to see what temperatures work for you et voila... you can print on the buildplate now.
And I am sure there are other methods as well!
Btw. The eggshape distortion prolly comes from undercuring your print. If the UV resin still has some flex to it it will stretch midprint resulting in the eggshaped bases. My recommended fixes would be to change the printing angle to remove the suction forces stretching the print OR to dial up exposure times to harden the resin to a point where it wont stretch. Have fun :-)
Finding that dragon really worked out. I love the rider you kitbashed. Too bad about your pump.
Love seeing you working with Viv. Woul like to see more of your actual work together tho. You guys are both such awesome guys. ❤
Make sure Viv hears this! We're doing a big table together when I return!
@@Miscast I hear it .... and I'M READY!
Without any irony, you are the Bob Ross of this hobby. You're so inspiring. Thank you so much.
That's how you create some sort of a magical artifact.
Like why the hell would anyone just bury a mold of a dragon if it wasn't something like that?
Curse probably
Have you considered using a deep pour epoxy, like the ones used in woodworking, for these big pours? They don't need vacuum to remove bubbles because they just take ages to cure. I'm not sure what they would be like in casting miniatures, but it might be interesting.
i'd love to experiment with some! I will give it a go at some point
There's a manic energy through this whole video that really resonates with me.
The energy gets more manic by the episode 😂
Cheers for sharing your silicone and resin
No worries, the important info is why I buy the products I do, not so much the brand in particular. I've bought all sorts of brands and they all perform the same in my experience if I know what I'm looking for. I just buy what is cheapest/easily avalible most of the time :)
@@Miscast great advice! It was useful to hear how you go about selecting what kind of material you want for the job at hand... Material knowledge like that comes through lots of testing so I appreciate sharing your experience!
This is my new favourite channel. It's basically what I do all week at work as a carpenter/builder; trying stuff, plans failing, finding solutions, having fun.
It's super relaxing to watch someone focused on the joy of process, as opposed to obsession with outcome.
"focused on the joy of process, as opposed to obsession with outcome" ok but why is this such a bar
i'm absolutely stealing this quote, thank you kind traveler
You make the hobby of Miniatures so refreshing. Thank You!
Awesome job on the dragon and rider. And I love the fact that you share your thoughts with us.
I really liked the dragon! You're right, his face is funny, but character is memorable. Great video too. It was a fun watch.
Their is a special place in my head I can only reach from watching your videos I love all the stuff you do and you are probably my favourite creator on UA-cam, keep it up treant. We all love you dude
Yoo wake up, new vid of miscast making weird shit came out
*weird AWESOME shit
That came out great, Trent. Also really cool to see what you're doing with metal minis!
someone's probably commented this already, but I do know of a way to print bases flat against the print bed, and that's to have a small chamfer inwards on the bottom of the base. It adds a bit of extra thickness to the base but actually works really well, I've never had any issue printing flat bases when using bases that have that construction.
I first came across this with Arbiter Miniatures, they call it "easy slip". They do it on round bases but I see no reason it couldn't work for hex bases or square bases too.
Watching your videos is kind of like when my 3yrold niece gets hold of my phone and records a video. And I mean that with all the love in my heart. It's chaotic and entertaining and full of love for your craft.
i just heard pete the wargamer in my head: „remember to use plenty of vaseline on your tool to prevent the greenstuff from sticking“
That was a wild and wonderful ride. Thank you for sharing your creativity!
if you want to print flat on the build plate just get a magnetic build plate, stops the risk of chipping the rim when removing the base and leave a nice clean bottom. the elephant footing can be solved by tapering in the bottom slightly to account for the burn in layers
Man ill get myself some of these minis even if shipping from australia to austria will bankrupt me . I want to kitbash some more on that.
A Miscast AND a Franky D vid on the same day 😱 My weekend just became perfect
LOVE FRANKY
Don’t let him know I’ve been stalking him.
@@FrankyDCrafter I will not post the discord logs, Sir😉
I absolutely love watching your videos, your process, your process thoughts, and just taking in the overall good vibes. You always have great advice/philosophic thoughts for hobbiests, newb or veteran, and really make everything you do so inviting and exciting for anyone else to try their hand at. Thanks!
Been enjoying your stuff for a while but finally subscribed for that sweet sweet Viv content
I don’t know how weird this sounds but man I love you. You are a total inspiration to me. You may have hobby heroes but let me tell you so do I. ❤
Love it! So many great lessons, even if they come from failure. Keep going my dude!
this is one of the best youtube videos I've ever watched. Inspiring, authentic, engaging and fun, wow. 💕
You make me SO happy every time I see a new video posted. Every video you inspire me to get off my butt and try (currently just collecting random junk that I can chop up and create into something later)
Cheers Trent 🍻
Thank you so much! Thanks for reminding me I gotta sort out my random junk its getting out of control!
I'm still in my scavenging stage, too. 🦅
Been really digging the latest vids! Awesome stuff, look forward to the next!
Nice job pulling that out I really dig the vampire hell rider theme it's actually pretty badass!
I didn't see any mistakes, just a whole lot of learning.
hi Trent, i work with ceramics and we normally use the car wheel chamber for keep the molds together! love your videos!
I'd love to try ceramics one day!
I love metal models so much im glad there are still people producing them ❤
Keep fiddling with printing your bases flat. You will figure it out and it will save a huge amount of time (and more).
I've been printing bases flat on a flex plate for years (on both a Mars 2 Pro and Saturn). Definitely the best way to do it. Even detailed bases with large raised portions on top will generally print flat with no supports. If dialed in correctly it is possible to eliminate your elephant foot issue as well, but if that is proving too hard just sand the base with the flat side down on a wet drywall sanding screen for 5 seconds per base. Many benefits to printing this way: less resin, bottom comes out perfectly flat, print time is at minimum twice as fast as 45 degree angled prints but for larger diameter bases you will save much more time. I try to print any miniature with a flat face this way (not just bases) and any terrain piece or scatter that will always be sitting on one flat side.
If you were in South Africa, it would be called load shedding. Power goes off for 2 to 4 hours at a time. Some areas stay off for up to 3 days sometimes
I've only just stumbled upon your channel but you're an ABSOLUTE TREASURE.
Loved the journey, ended up with a brilliant looking dragon and rider.
So on 3d printing flat on the plate. I do this all the time with actual size purity seals I make for larp. And yeah the benifit is there's no waste and it's a 20 minute print. The trick to getting them off is to slide the scraper along the plate with more force than you think is ok and after a little bit you'll figure out how hard you can hit them without chipping them that often.
LOL I *KNEW* that was gonna happen with the Pump... that Resin would go into the tube... though if you get a new Tube it should be ok, i guess... unless you bunt the bump up.
When I first started gaming and painting miniatures our minis were lead and so was all out gas. I remember when that became an OMG thing and "pewter" minis came on the scene.
I always know it’s going to be a good day when Trent uploads
This would be a really funny start to a found footage horror movie
The mould looks like the Tofu Block from Resident Evil 2 Tofu mode XD
@@monstercraft4366 absolutely 😂
after mixing millput leave it for 10 to 20 mins and it starts to harden then its perfect for placing in the base mold or you could dust the mold with some baking soda or flour or corn starch
this was a fun video and that dragon is rad. One day I will have a big dragon to paint!
Love the crafting minis stuff and how you go about sharing it :)
I recently made a post about a process i hadnt seen used in 3d printing/mold making, essentially printing molds for the molds.
(its apparently called Match Plate Casting)
The actual pewter casting didnt go well as the parts were very thin and small (1/16 track links for a Panzer 2) but the process for getting molds worked and i think you might find it to be of interest.
Search for "I tried "Reverse" mold making -> thought id share it." and it should come up.
18:43 Sense memory took me back to age 6, playing on the living room floor with my tub of Lego
Honestly why I made my bits box so big.
Miscast video casually turns into a found footage horror movie was not on my bingo card.
it really took everything in my being to not put a jumpscare in there
i recently done a conversion for a Warhammer 40k chaplain dreadnought that i'd put off for years because i didn't think i was good enough, instead what happened is i never done conversion work, so the only thing for it was to try, and it's turned out fantastically
Living up to the channel name on this one bud. Good one to watch on my lunch break!
Thats why I print my bases flat on my resin printer too. Time and better results. They always come out oval if on an angle.
It is good to remember that not all rules apply to all situations, no matter how much they seem akin to a "universal" truth (in that space). I've worked on tabletop game design and philosophy a lot and some folks are EXTREMELY quick to assume that certain approaches are entirely invalid because they are only seeing them in the context of one particular, unquestioned design ethos. And as you mentioned: If it turns out to not work, then oh well. Bet it won't all be a waste. c:
I have had a weird renaissance with metal miniatures recently as in they are the only mini's I want to paint and own. Somehow they seem to have a lot more character, I look forward to being able to purchase some of your creations in the future.
That's such a weirdo story for acquiring that mold lol. I love it
I couldn't believe it when I heard it!
Your videos bring me so much joy, I want to thank you for it. Time and time again you show me how to follow my passion, and I really like your editing and pacing. Greetings from germany!
Hi! Thank you!
In regards to the 3d printing, I would recommend looking at tougher resins, like Siraya Blu or Tenacious, with some sculpt :) Love the channel!
Thankyou!!
As a 3D Printing company owner, sometimes it is fine to print on the buildplate it self.
Yes...printing in a 45° is mostly fail proof...but objects like the bases, are fine to do in the plate it self. And, it safes loads of time! When I print for my 1/3000 scale project, I print the buildings on the plate. A 30 minutes wait and done. 25% fail....fine.... I'll print them again and again if needed. Parts are always re-usable and it is quite fast. I understand your view. And lets rebel against the 'always print in 45°'!
gotta love the unplanned found footage horror segment
We have very different design styles but I really appreciate your work, the effort you put into your videos, and just how authentic you are! I am stoked because I was able to snag one of this last round of toads you just released and I plan on casting it and then maybe even modifying it and recasting it. Keep up the awesome work!
I can't wait!!
Relief floods into my body when Trent uploads. Is that a snaily boi I see at 16:25 because if so I want one
Can't wait to see how this paints up
Loving the uploads my man. Really gets me in the creative mood to make weird and cool shit along with you xD
Thankyou! More on the way!
One work around to print your bases flat on the build plate and get the results you're after is to modify your 3D model to account for the elephant's foot that occurs during your initial layers. Also Nerdtronic made a video worth checking out and even made an app to help out in this regard.
>orders a model from a guy named miscast
>comes with a miscasted model
makes sense
Cant wait to buy miscast miscast miniatures 😂
Yes! Break the rules, do the "dumb" thing, and use the wrong tool for the right job. I totally agree, that's how you learn, grow, and innovate.
"Rooted my pump" you're so bloody aussie
Really loving these videos, my man, really getting me inspired to hobby and have fun while doing it
you reminded me of an epiphany that i forgot i'd had, thank you for this.
Great video! I've found Sirayatech Blu to be the toughest 3d resin I've used. It can also be blended with their Tenacious resin to make it slightly less brittle. I've successfully machined parts printed with the stuff. It might stand up to your molding process. If you print at 45 degrees and your parts are heavy they will stretch in the z axis, that's my experience anyway. If I print at 45 degrees I always hollow them down to 1 mm wall thickness with drain holes to make them as light as possible. I find if I need parts to be perfectly round (or they need to be solid resin) I need to print flat and parallel to the build plate.
Thank you!
ahhh yes, the mad scientist of miniature wargaming. Good to see you sir
Great stuff. Your minis look fantastic
holy crap, it's Viv! I watched his videos waaaaay back in the day
Bought the plants nowhere to be found book physical copy. Very much looking forward to giving it a loving read
THANK YOU! So much love and heart has gone into that project so it means a lot.
Trent you should totally try get your stuff onto 28 mag all ur stuff is so juicy
absolutely a goal!
as for the bases, print them at 1 mm too high (or 0.6), have it cone inward, so you can scrape it off easier from the buildplate as well, then use a sander, or even sandpaper to get to ride of the 'access' at the bottom. Removing the access is a matter of seconds per base, but it comes with the bonus of having an ultra smooth bottom layer. (you may have to build yourself a sandig jig, since you cant hold your bases well - but it should be pretty easy as long as you make 1 jig per base diameter, so you can inversely slot them in, then sand them safely and near instantly)
At least on the phrozen mini 8k, with aqua grey 4k resin, this works pretty well for me
Great idea!!
18:00 can't believe you didn't mention the fact that your channel is called Miscast so ofcourse you keep the miscasts :D