Keene 4 inch gold dredge pump repair
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2011
- After having a breakdown in the field, I found the instructions on removing and replacing parts to be pretty poor. I decided to work through the problem and film it so that maybe it could help other dredge owners who find themselves needing to make repairs for the first time.
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Good video. I was told the Allen bolts behind the impeller were reversed threaded but I see their not. Thanks! Joe gold
Thanks for taking the time to make this video--very informative and easy to follow.
Thanks again, and all the best.
THANK YOU! I learned a lot before I did mine by watching you. You made it very easy for me to visualize the entire process. I replaced my belt. Everything's working perfect. MUCH appreciated. My biggest concern was the pump impeller. Randy "C-17A"
+C0017A Glad it helped. You should know however that there are some better methods. I was going by exactly what the factory instructions said, but in reality, you should REALLY use a strap-wrench to loosen the impeller. Mine wasn't overly tight so it broke free easily. Another time, this method did not work and I had to use a strap.
+The Silver Fiend ,Well...........yeah............we COULD try and make it all like a germ free, surgical procedure with latex gloves and masks.........but, how you did it was just damn fine. Forget the critics that nickel & dime anyone & everything that's not up to their obviously perfect standard. I did my grease monkey best...wire brushed the bolt threads, removed the little bit of factor silicone sealer, used never seize and silicone again on the bolt threads to the pump housing. My impeller broke free and spun off just as easily. I went slow, deliberate, safe. Agree NOT to over torque any bolts into cast aluminum. Did I gave a spec chart or torque wrench? Nope. Just about good and snug and perfect. So, pat yourself on the back for a great demo video and for helping a LOT of people. Cheers, Randy C-17A :)
Great straight-forward explanation-Great vid!Thank you...
@ReedLukens Thanks for the comment Reed! Yes, a strap wrench would have worked better. I was trying to follow the manufacturer instruction, which does say to do it like how I did. I think they really need to re-write the manual!
The correct way to install any v-belt is to loosen either the air pump base bolts (if slotted) or the engine base bolts which should be slotted to allow proper belt tension adjustment.
good video i have a p350 on a 11 hp engine i have been trying to figure out how to get it off ....now i know thanks .
You really should not use a screw driver on the impeller, they make chain or strap wrenches especially for that. I use a set of chain vise grips then just hit it with a dead blow and it will always break it loose in a few hits without needing to lock the shaft on the other side. Always use a steel pully just because you don't want to trust your life to an aluminum one. Always use anti-seize on all of the threads including the impellar & they will always come out easily. I love your videos 8°)
Back then I don't think they they had impact drills and impact drill you don't have to lock up anything to hold it but back then yes you did need to hold it from turning as you broke the nut /bolt loses
@aperfectcuremt I haven't torn down one of those, but I believe they are the same.
The video how to is a great idea.
All fasteners have a torque spec and should be followed, especially on steel bolts to fasten aluminium.
Get the belt number off the belt and you can get the correct belt tension on a chart.
Just a note, didn't see you install the key back on the air pump shaft. If you use the set screw as your key it will fail at some point.
This should be named how not to change your belt, seals or pulleys!
You forgot the Anti Seize ok on the bolts threads, shafts and a light coat behind the heads. Torque to specs as others said! Very Important! Last thing you want to do is strip out or break a bolt on the pump. Bottom two back engine mount bolts sit under water on the pump. Drilling the heads of the allen bolts off and not messing up the pump is not easy not fun!
(Anti-Seize)
Implerer... never pry on ot in any way unless you want to buy one!
Very light coat of water proof grease on the round rubber gasket. Very light bead of gasket seal if you dont have a new outer gasket.
T80 Air Pump. Use a male air fitting on the end air pump. Unless your using the hookah system you do not want the air up to full pressure. This will greatly improved the life of your air pump...
Lastly, put a tachometer on the engine so u can dial in your dredge and go back to the same rpms time after time... faster for over burden and 150 to 200 rps slower when you hit the pay layers...
Yes this is the same for a 2 inch Keene P90 pump. Its also the same on most of the other Keene air pumps.
Typed this on my phone so please excuse my typos!
Next time I have to mess with my Keene pumps, I will make a video on the correct way to do this.
Where do i get the pump kit to run a air pump
Mounting a P150 on a Briggs 5hp. When threading the impeller onto the shaft. The impeller followed thread until it seized up against the mounting plate. Is there something that keeps impeller from threading too far?
its not against the plate. Its very close tolerance to prevent pressure loss, but its not rubbing.
@@TheSilverFiend impeller is against the plate so tight the engine will no longer turn. spacer sleeve on shaft was missing. thanks
does this work on keene 2 inch pumps as well, or are they a different design??
Help needed. I want to add a belt/belt housing onto my honda semi trash water pump so I can run an air compressor pump on the same motor. Does anyone know how or a part number needed to do this. I think I need a longer the crank shaft so I have the space between the motor and the propeller to install the lobe and belt housing. is this correct? Does honda have a shaft already set up for this or Keenan? Not sure where to find the parts I need any info would be helpful thank you...
The problem I forsee is the clearance issue. I dont know the specifics of your pump and motor but if you want to put a pulley for a compressor belt you MUST have the space between motor and pump. Its possible to replace the shaft with a different one to change length, thread, diam, etc. IF (and thats a big IF) your Honda has the correct output shaft already it might be doable if the pump has clearance. Shoot me some pics on my facebook page or contact me through my website and I'll see if I can get you more detailed info
thank you. its a WB20XT 2 inch semi trash if that helps there is zero space between the motor and water prop. I wasn't sure if there is a longer shaft I can purchase so I can add a cam or pully with a housing or cover so the belt doesn't rub. Honda, from what iv found does not have what is needed. ill work on getting a pic to you. thanks again for your time. I might just have to run the compressor from a separate motor thinking it will be the easy/cheap way.
I looked up your pump. There's no way you are going to get a pulley in there without some major mods and if youre doing that, you might as well just go buy the correct parts you need. Used dredge pumps come up for sale in ebay all the time. Id start by looking there.
very cool, but using silicone on orings defeats the purpose of having an oring. if anything, use silicone grease, or preferably, molykote grease on the oring.
It is not good practice to roll a belt onto a pulley ( can make nicks and small cuts ), also the belt tension is most likely incorrect.
You sure that's a 4 inch looks like 2-1/2 ok