Hey Nico! Don't forget on the wavelets, you got options for each wavelet to increase sharpness and denoise that particular wavelet too. It's a lot of tweaking and so on, but I've been able to do some nice images with a 102mm Maksutov. Also even just a alt-az mount or eq mount with a basic 3 star alignment and a "whatever" polar alignment, all you gonna need is 2 minutes of video within the frame and you gonna have plenty of data to work it. That big space tube you got, it can capture plenty of details with more frames. I'm also a planetary beginner, great targets for Moon polluted or partly cloudy nights even at heavily light polluted places. All you need is a few minutes of a video and those few minutes of clear skies, even between clouds.
You are great at Deep Sky astrophotography but I have a few tips for planetary astrophotography 1)Taking image i. Take many videos as you can within two or three minutes with the planet in frame 2) PIPP i. Enter all the video and select 'JOIN MODE' instead of batch mode then start processing . ii. Don't do percentage to process in pipp as you don't have the graph and you might just remove more frames than necessary (do it in autostakkert) 3) AUTOSTAKKERT i. Reduce the the lowest pixel size until the application detects only the planet ( except if you are imaging the moons of jupiter as well) 4) REGISTAX i. Do the RGB balance it will remove the excess red colour from the planet and you'll get true colour 5) SNAPSEED i. Increase structure in snapseed under details I think if you do this you will get a better image
@@guptazzzfamily8639 I don't really understand the 3 min video part. I was only able to keep the planet in frame for a couple seconds at a time. Trying to move the telescope while recording didn't work due to shake. So I would just center it best I could switch to crop mode, and take a 2-5 second video while the planet drifted through. Do you mean 3 minutes total made up of many shorter videos?
@@NebulaPhotos yes short videos but not of 3 mins total but taken within 3 mins because if you exceed three minutes you will not be able to capture surface details because of the fast rotation of the planet
Nico, thank you once again for giving me new ideas to try. I might even get something from my refractor with tracking. I downloaded pipp and autostackert while watching your video.
I was watching with smile on my face :) A month or two ago just made almost the same, but outside and with my phone camera) And it was double the fun to make visual astronomical observations and then make couple of photoes! Enjoy it a lot!
Great job, Nico! I think if you took as many short videos as you can over the course of a 3-minute period, processed them together in PIPP (use "join mode"), stacked the frames in Autostakkert, you'd be able to bring out a lot more detail with wavelets processing in Registax. (This is especially so with your 10-inch dob!) You should be able to get at least 1,500 usable frames to process after stacking. Hope you are able to take some more attempts before the planets start setting too early in the coming months!
Thank you Nico. I love all of the videos you produce. This one was especially helpful to me and others for processing planets. I would suggest that in addition to rgb align that you also add rgb balance. That button has the best payoff for my pictures.
Thanks Nico! Love imaging with my 10-inch dob and DSLR when skies aren’t conducive for more in-depth astrophotography of DSOs. Lucky imaging and software really make the difference too. Hope all is well and thanks for sharing your own experience with these beautiful planets. Cheers
Hi Nico - I thought considering how you went about this it was a success! Nice work around to both keep the camera on target and capture some cropped video. You must have those camera menu options in your muscle memory now! Cheers Ollie
Amazing Video Nico! That 10" beast, Really Gets Great Details With the DSLR! Put A Guide Camera if You have From You DSO setup and You can Get, some Super Crisp Images! I have a ZWO ASI 224mc myself, Got some high Resolution images With my 6 inch Scope Only.
Thanks for this one! I'm hoping to dip my toes into imaging with my ASI120 and 14.5" dob and seeing all the steps involved with each piece of software is huge.
I started out the same way, with a very similar setup. I used an older XT8 with a 2.5x Barlow and an ASI120. With the tiny sensor on the ASI120 coupled with older bearings on the XT8, it was a supreme exercise of patience. Thankfully I was shooting from my patio, it might have been a deal breaker if was shooting from a deck.
Great video on a wobbly balcony. Can you get focus with your Ra and this dob? Focus seems to be almost all the way into the tube, no chance to add a Barlow or anything.
It's the opposite. Barlows are essential for imaging with this scope as they push the focal plane back. There isn't enough inward travel without one to reach prime focus with a DSLR.In this case, I was using a televue powermate 2.5x. Haven't tried with the Ra, it's possible with the 20mm backfocus, it would work, but I would need a special adapter.
That was pretty cool. Looked simple till you got into all those little processing programs. I imagine lots of practice would be beneficial, but using them on rare occasions would be a brain teaser. Always enjoy watching the creative things you come up with Nico.
I thought so too. I am new to photography, astronomy AND computer editing..... I've been able to figure this out by following along with his tutorials. Hes very good. I bought the same model camera that he uses and started from there. Following his older tutorials I ended up finding a used Canon EOS T3i for 150 bucks with a kit lens in craigslist. It's not as difficult as it seems. And he gives you enough info to follow along. Including giving you access to the raw files to download and play along.
I did notice that big Dob in the background of your other videos and was thinking about asking you to make a video about taking some astrophotos with your Dob using your DSLR. Thanks for obliging without my even asking!
Great effort Nico i’ve been there done that but out of my window lol you can’t say now you never tried planetary imaging. One thing I can tell you it’s not as addicting as deep sky astrophotography.
If you ever try again you can take more than one of the short videos then press join mode and it will join the different videos so you have a longer one
Mount the OTA with your equatorial mount (it's 10.5kg, so even a HEQ5 pro can carry it). then a rough polar alignment, and you can capture longer video time. It will still drift out of frame but at a longer time, you can use the hand controller to centre it again too.
Thanks for a good video👍. Is it possible to share the raw videos of the planets so we, the public, can practice the steps? And also can you explain the 1 to 1 crop mode for the many who don’t know what that means?
Yes, here you go: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1OxCQLMGllqdEC8i0-THdmCLidK39NEQX?usp=sharing Normally video on a stills camera is captured by line-skipping or compressing the larger sensor area down to the desired size (4k, 1080, 720, etc.), rather than cropping in to the center of the sensor. If your sensor has a true 'crop mode' where 1 pixel = 1 pixel this is much better for planetary where sharpness is critical.
Now that I’ve got most of the nebula and galaxies and just making them better I’m thinking planetary your video pops up. That AI is good. I have a dslr my first Astro camera so yeah let’s use this video as a good first video to step into that world.
Amazing video, thanks! I tried to apply this technique but when recording the video on my DSLR Jupiter appears too bright, burned (even when I used lowest ISO). The only difference is that I'm not using a Barlow lens that naturally reduces amount of light. What else can I do? Thanks!
In the menu for the video settings, look for a manual exposure option turn that on, and then change shutter speed manually until Jupiter is exposed correctly.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks so much!, that should do it, I'm playing now with the manual settings and indeed I have control over aperture and speed. I'm gonna try it as soon as the clouds allow! Are you still in Kyrgyzstan?
I am in a mac intel Catalina and i can't use PIPP does Siril do the track or what you guys use that your planet is fixed and not traveling along the image?
I did my first attempt at planetary imaging a while back... and very quickly learned that a 0.8x reduced GT81 with an ASI294MM Pro is _not_ a good option LOL. Works great for DSO imaging, but planetary? Not so much. It was fun, though!
Am I crazy for asking why can't I bring the image-- in real-time looking through the eye piece----and magnifying that much closer. Isn't there a way to cleverly do that ? ( aside for the barlow idea ) There must be away !!!!
I built a stable micro adjustment base with the standards dslr mount bolt, from a hindged tin, I was able to get better stability even with a strong wind catching the lens hood extended. If you have time and inclination what have you, I have a question... There is a guy with a p1000 with 125x magnification and 4x digital at piza and would you say that you dslr setup has better resolution in comparison? Thanks! Have a great week all! /\
I'm no expert but I'll suggest you to try it out with a smartphone. I'm 100% sure you'll get better results and it will be much easier to track and center. Plus the digital zoom really helps.
You can pick up a Canon IR RC6 on eBAY for under $6.00 dollars. This will allow you to record video if your camera has an IR sensor built-in. I do this using my Canon 70D.
Backyard EOS will solve that shaking problem in a couple different ways.... I actually bought a Cannon T3i to follow along with your tutorials. Does it have a similar mode?
Do you used sky wather dobsanin 10 inch or 12 inch ?so Great to Heard my telescope is a 10 ich go to :) is a coolest you must to have dobsanin go to your photo will very fantastic !!! And Great !!!!
Can you also make some high res photos of the Moon? I mean how you align the photos because if you zoom in for max details possible you will only see a part of the moon.
Do you share your raw footage or tiff stacked files ? I have similar results just by Nikon P1000 . Only thing is Saturn image gets worst after wavelets in Registax . Would like try on your tiff image . Just for comparison
Hi Nico, I’m new at stargazing. I tried to shoot a video of the moon yesterday with my dslr attached to my scope but I didn’t make it. A message was keep saying that I couldn’t use the video mode as there are no lens. So I can take photos but not a video. Any idea please? Thanks in advance. Nikos
Hi Nikos, there may be a setting in the menu you can switch off, so that the camera will work even if an official ‘lens’ is not attached. What camera is it?
@@salonique33 For modern Canon cameras like your 4000D, there should be a setting hidden in the 'custom function' menu, might be under 'others' that will allow you to 'release shutter without lens' make sure that is set to ON and then the camera should be fully operational when connected to a telescope.
Hmm, I've been considering trying something like that. My Lumix G9 can do 60FPS raw, or 180fps 1080p. It also has bluetooth remote to help with shaking. But I only have a 400mm lens which is probably too short for planets.
Nice tutorial as usual. Some comments: 1. I took a similar video afocal to my iPhone 6s at 266x, hence with a focal length of 266 times the camera FL of 4.15mm or 1104mm. That's 37% of your FL. 2. My video was still "shaky" 'tho not as much as yours. I was on solid ground and I triggered the exposures without touching the phone via voice "turn the volume down". 3. You did not tell what exposure you used (shutter spd. and ISO). I used ISO 400 @1/250s. 4. With a collapsible tube, I've heard that collimation should be done each time. (My telescope is solid-tube). 5. Your video shows effects of "seeing" (as does mine).
I think I was also around 1/250s for jupiter, but at ISO800. Saturn was much dimmer and I changed to 1/60s. Yes, I really should have collimated. You are right that it's even more important with a collapsible. I'm sure my images would have been a bit sharper if I had remembered.
I'm sorry, How can I config the camera DSLR, I've just bought one second hand and Im don't have any lenses for it, I've all the other staf but I can't make the camera focus, so I don't know if the camera works.The set up is a DSLR 60D + 135mm newtonian telescope an the adapters...
Buy a '2x barlow lens' and the attach it to the t-adapter on your Canon and then slide it in like an eyepiece. Without a barlow, a standard Newtonian won't have enough inward travel to come to focus with a DSLR. The barlow pushes focal plane back allowing the camera to come to focus.
Hi, you can't do H-alpha imaging of the sun with a standard camera lens. Needs to be a telescope with a Daystar Quark attachment or a dedicated solar scope. With a standard lens, you can do white light imaging of the sun with a solar filter (like Thousand Oaks or Baader Astrosolar film).
Am finding it next to impossible to capture stars with my DSLR Camera but when using my Samsung Mobile .. No issues what so ever . As for Telescopes .. Is there a Sub £1,000 priced Scope currently on the market for sale that i can attach my Canon 850D
That's likely because you are using a netwonian not designed for imaging with a DSLR, and it won't come to focus. They do make newts with low profile focusers and call them 'imaging netwonians'. Do you already have an equatorial mount?
@@NebulaPhotos Have no mount . Just trying to achieve a simple capture of visable stars is proving rather fustrating yet i can achieve it using a mobile phone .
The likely reason is you have a telescope that is optimized for visual use so it has a long focuser. When you insert an eyepiece, the eyepiece comes to focus and then you are take a photo the eyepiece with your cell phone. With the DSLR you are trying to achieve prime focus, but with a standard telescope designed for visual use the focuser is too long and a DSLR cannot come to focus as there is not enough inward travel. If you want to buy something to fix this, you can use a Barlow lens like I did in this video. A Barlow will push the focal plane back so even a DSLR with its deep set sensor can reach focus with basically any telescope. The downside to a Barlow for star photography is it doubles the focal length so without a mount, you will only be able to photograph very bright stars without trailing. Hope this helps.
Thanks for letting me know. I'll update it with the web archive link: web.archive.org/web/20230531163522/sites.google.com/site/astropipp/downloads I just tried and if you click to download it will appear to not work, but give it about 30 seconds and it should then download.
Would it be practical to haul your gear down to ground level to avoid the deck shaking? I wonder how much clearer the images would be. Do you know what your effective shutter speed was for the videos? Maybe 1/100? And what ISO? Would a newer body possibly work better at the video capture? That camera came out in 2010 I believe.
At least in terms of DSLRs, the 1:1 pixel mode is pretty important to avoid compression from scaling. If you have a astronomy camera, you can do ROI (region of interest) to do the same thing. I think BackyardEOS, might also have some interesting features where it reads the video straight off the live view. MagicLantern too if you have an older Canon. So a newer camera may not be better unless it has some ways to not scale the video (either through line-skipping or internal compression). Yes, bringing the telescope down would be much better, but it's quite the ordeal, and actually won't fit in the car after I pack up all my deep sky stuff. Shutter speed was 1/200s for jupiter and 1/60s for saturn. I believe ISO800 for both. But all will be very different based on the particular telescope and barlow being used, so just do it by eye and don't over-expose.
You can get surprisingly good results(sharp detailed images) with an un-guided dob.. and generic DSLR. The workflow is just longer. Heres an image of Jupiter with my meade 10" lighbridge. unguided. projection method(not as sharp). i.imgur.com/Z83JSC6.png My method was to take 3 minute long clips and just allow the planet to drift across the frame, that way its not shaking. And reposition to do that over and over for 3 minutes. The downside is you loose half of your frames while constantly repositioning the scope for the next drift. Then I'd run it through adobe premiere and "cut out" anytime the entire planet was not in frame, export that as individual tiffs, usually around 5000 frames from a 3 minute video would make the cut(maybe 1:30 worth) Then recombined them in Pipp into an avi for Autostakkert to process. then registax for wavelets. Image above was taken with the following setup Meade 10" lightbridge(hubble optics primary) sony a6000, set at 1.5x clear image zoom(similar to your crop method i believe) 1080p at 40fps, iso 2500 Baader 6mm plossl(projection method) 2x celestron ultima barlow And most importantly.. some damn good seeing!
When Nico's just for fun is better than your weeks of pure pain.
So real bro haha
This was a fabulous watch Nico! The detail in those planets is fire, you aced it!
Hey Nico! Don't forget on the wavelets, you got options for each wavelet to increase sharpness and denoise that particular wavelet too. It's a lot of tweaking and so on, but I've been able to do some nice images with a 102mm Maksutov. Also even just a alt-az mount or eq mount with a basic 3 star alignment and a "whatever" polar alignment, all you gonna need is 2 minutes of video within the frame and you gonna have plenty of data to work it. That big space tube you got, it can capture plenty of details with more frames. I'm also a planetary beginner, great targets for Moon polluted or partly cloudy nights even at heavily light polluted places. All you need is a few minutes of a video and those few minutes of clear skies, even between clouds.
FINALLY YES YAY THANKS NICO FOR MAKING THIS VID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Definitely one of the best astro UA-camrs, thanks for all Nico!🎉
thank you very much for the tutorial . clear skies.
Wow! Awesome job! Definitely looked like there was a lot more to be done with the Wavelets. That's my new favorite word, wavelets.
You are great at Deep Sky astrophotography but I have a few tips for planetary astrophotography
1)Taking image
i. Take many videos as you can within two or three minutes with the planet in frame
2) PIPP
i. Enter all the video and select 'JOIN MODE' instead of batch mode then start processing .
ii. Don't do percentage to process in pipp as you don't have the graph and you might just remove more frames than necessary (do it in autostakkert)
3) AUTOSTAKKERT
i. Reduce the the lowest pixel size until the application detects only the planet ( except if you are imaging the moons of jupiter as well)
4) REGISTAX
i. Do the RGB balance it will remove the excess red colour from the planet and you'll get true colour
5) SNAPSEED
i. Increase structure in snapseed under details
I think if you do this you will get a better image
Thanks for the tips!
@@NebulaPhotos Welcome
Except for the 3 min video part you can try the rest right now .
@@guptazzzfamily8639 I don't really understand the 3 min video part. I was only able to keep the planet in frame for a couple seconds at a time. Trying to move the telescope while recording didn't work due to shake. So I would just center it best I could switch to crop mode, and take a 2-5 second video while the planet drifted through. Do you mean 3 minutes total made up of many shorter videos?
@@NebulaPhotos yes short videos but not of 3 mins total but taken within 3 mins because if you exceed three minutes you will not be able to capture surface details because of the fast rotation of the planet
@@guptazzzfamily8639 Got it. Thanks again
Thank you, this was very helpful. Cool t-shirt, too!
Nico, thank you once again for giving me new ideas to try. I might even get something from my refractor with tracking. I downloaded pipp and autostackert while watching your video.
Keep on trucking Nico!
Finally! The most wanted Video! Thanks Nico! Great image too :)
it would be sharper if he collinated the mirrors pics were out of FOCUS
Great fun and good times, great video, great image, thank you sir.
I was watching with smile on my face :) A month or two ago just made almost the same, but outside and with my phone camera) And it was double the fun to make visual astronomical observations and then make couple of photoes! Enjoy it a lot!
very cool, I literally just starting, so videos like that motivates me
Great job, Nico! I think if you took as many short videos as you can over the course of a 3-minute period, processed them together in PIPP (use "join mode"), stacked the frames in Autostakkert, you'd be able to bring out a lot more detail with wavelets processing in Registax. (This is especially so with your 10-inch dob!) You should be able to get at least 1,500 usable frames to process after stacking. Hope you are able to take some more attempts before the planets start setting too early in the coming months!
Thank you Nico. I love all of the videos you produce. This one was especially helpful to me and others for processing planets. I would suggest that in addition to rgb align that you also add rgb balance. That button has the best payoff for my pictures.
Very informative video as always Thanks
Clear skies, also don't fall off your deck bro.
Planetary photography is a completely different animal
Great to see the whole process. As for the balcony, maybe put some wood on it to displace the weight.
Thanks Nico! Love imaging with my 10-inch dob and DSLR when skies aren’t conducive for more in-depth astrophotography of DSOs. Lucky imaging and software really make the difference too. Hope all is well and thanks for sharing your own experience with these beautiful planets. Cheers
As Nico talks about it shaking the wind blows the trees all over the place in the background. Lol
legendary photography 💝💝💝
Awsome!!! My telescope is small it's a $200 telescope but I can see Saturn's ring and it's amazing!!! And Jupiter and some of it's moons!
Hi Nico - I thought considering how you went about this it was a success! Nice work around to both keep the camera on target and capture some cropped video. You must have those camera menu options in your muscle memory now!
Cheers
Ollie
Nice work!
Beautiful!
excelent video, I just wondering how long should I do the videos of the planets ?
Amazing Video Nico! That 10" beast, Really Gets Great Details With the DSLR! Put A Guide Camera if You have From You DSO setup and You can Get, some Super Crisp Images! I have a ZWO ASI 224mc myself, Got some high Resolution images With my 6 inch Scope Only.
That was awesome!
Thanks for this one! I'm hoping to dip my toes into imaging with my ASI120 and 14.5" dob and seeing all the steps involved with each piece of software is huge.
thanks
I started out the same way, with a very similar setup. I used an older XT8 with a 2.5x Barlow and an ASI120. With the tiny sensor on the ASI120 coupled with older bearings on the XT8, it was a supreme exercise of patience. Thankfully I was shooting from my patio, it might have been a deal breaker if was shooting from a deck.
Great video on a wobbly balcony. Can you get focus with your Ra and this dob? Focus seems to be almost all the way into the tube, no chance to add a Barlow or anything.
It's the opposite. Barlows are essential for imaging with this scope as they push the focal plane back. There isn't enough inward travel without one to reach prime focus with a DSLR.In this case, I was using a televue powermate 2.5x. Haven't tried with the Ra, it's possible with the 20mm backfocus, it would work, but I would need a special adapter.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks, I will give that a try. Anything to save me taking a laptop outside in the dew!
AHHHHH MAN I MISSED THIS!
That was pretty cool. Looked simple till you got into all those little processing programs. I imagine lots of practice would be beneficial, but using them on rare occasions would be a brain teaser. Always enjoy watching the creative things you come up with Nico.
I thought so too. I am new to photography, astronomy AND computer editing.....
I've been able to figure this out by following along with his tutorials.
Hes very good.
I bought the same model camera that he uses and started from there.
Following his older tutorials I ended up finding a used Canon EOS T3i for 150 bucks with a kit lens in craigslist.
It's not as difficult as it seems.
And he gives you enough info to follow along.
Including giving you access to the raw files to download and play along.
I did notice that big Dob in the background of your other videos and was thinking about asking you to make a video about taking some astrophotos with your Dob using your DSLR. Thanks for obliging without my even asking!
Great effort Nico i’ve been there done that but out of my window lol you can’t say now you never tried planetary imaging. One thing I can tell you it’s not as addicting as deep sky astrophotography.
If you ever try again you can take more than one of the short videos then press join mode and it will join the different videos so you have a longer one
Mount the OTA with your equatorial mount (it's 10.5kg, so even a HEQ5 pro can carry it). then a rough polar alignment, and you can capture longer video time. It will still drift out of frame but at a longer time, you can use the hand controller to centre it again too.
I'm waiting to do that with a table top version. I didn't know if it would work or not
Thanks for a good video👍. Is it possible to share the raw videos of the planets so we, the public, can practice the steps? And also can you explain the 1 to 1 crop mode for the many who don’t know what that means?
Yes, here you go: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1OxCQLMGllqdEC8i0-THdmCLidK39NEQX?usp=sharing
Normally video on a stills camera is captured by line-skipping or compressing the larger sensor area down to the desired size (4k, 1080, 720, etc.), rather than cropping in to the center of the sensor. If your sensor has a true 'crop mode' where 1 pixel = 1 pixel this is much better for planetary where sharpness is critical.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks appreciate this a lot.
Well done Nico! I've been meaning to break out my 12" orion Dob, do some "mods" to it and do some imaging with it.
Good video..also would u recommend this telescope
Sure, I like it. I mostly use it for visual and that is what is designed for.
Nice work
Now that I’ve got most of the nebula and galaxies and just making them better I’m thinking planetary your video pops up. That AI is good. I have a dslr my first Astro camera so yeah let’s use this video as a good first video to step into that world.
new video cool!
I have a dobsonian and it's really painfull to take pictures in this style. But it's worth.
First clear skies since start of October so going to try Jupiter this weekend.
My newer wood deck shook my SCT all the time. Finally went remote control and that solved the shaking issues.
Amazing video, thanks! I tried to apply this technique but when recording the video on my DSLR Jupiter appears too bright, burned (even when I used lowest ISO). The only difference is that I'm not using a Barlow lens that naturally reduces amount of light. What else can I do? Thanks!
In the menu for the video settings, look for a manual exposure option turn that on, and then change shutter speed manually until Jupiter is exposed correctly.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks so much!, that should do it, I'm playing now with the manual settings and indeed I have control over aperture and speed. I'm gonna try it as soon as the clouds allow! Are you still in Kyrgyzstan?
@@santiagomoebio Ha, will never live that one down
I am in a mac intel Catalina and i can't use PIPP does Siril do the track or what you guys use that your planet is fixed and not traveling along the image?
I first wondered what did they to you, when I saw the title.
Did the barlow help with the focus point? Love your stuff
Sweet! 10 min Friday! ... Or was it 5 mins per planet? lol.
Nice 👍
I did my first attempt at planetary imaging a while back... and very quickly learned that a 0.8x reduced GT81 with an ASI294MM Pro is _not_ a good option LOL. Works great for DSO imaging, but planetary? Not so much. It was fun, though!
Last night I was laying in bed wondering if I could do this and then you post this. That's creepy.
Génial ! Have you ever used Astrosurface for wavelets ?
Appreciate the tutorial!
Is it normal to get a warning that registax can't be downloaded securely? Tried chrome and Edge...
Yes, it's an old program that probably hasn't been updated since Windows 7, so that's normal
@@NebulaPhotos Cool, thanks👍👍
Am I crazy for asking why can't I bring the image-- in real-time looking through the eye piece----and magnifying that much closer. Isn't there a way to cleverly do that ? ( aside for the barlow idea )
There must be away !!!!
I built a stable micro adjustment base with the standards dslr mount bolt, from a hindged tin, I was able to get better stability even with a strong wind catching the lens hood extended. If you have time and inclination what have you, I have a question... There is a guy with a p1000 with 125x magnification and 4x digital at piza and would you say that you dslr setup has better resolution in comparison? Thanks! Have a great week all! /\
I'm no expert but I'll suggest you to try it out with a smartphone. I'm 100% sure you'll get better results and it will be much easier to track and center. Plus the digital zoom really helps.
Nico doing easy stuff == normal people going ham
You can pick up a Canon IR RC6 on eBAY for under $6.00 dollars. This will allow you to record video if your camera has an IR sensor built-in. I do this using my Canon 70D.
Backyard EOS will solve that shaking problem in a couple different ways....
I actually bought a Cannon T3i to follow along with your tutorials.
Does it have a similar mode?
Do you used sky wather dobsanin 10 inch or 12 inch ?so Great to Heard my telescope is a 10 ich go to :) is a coolest you must to have dobsanin go to your photo will very fantastic !!! And Great !!!!
Can you also make some high res photos of the Moon? I mean how you align the photos because if you zoom in for max details possible you will only see a part of the moon.
Yep. Same process!
С такой апертурой и светосилой можно было бы снять и по круче) дип скаи получаются у вас на много лучше ) удачи
Do you share your raw footage or tiff stacked files ? I have similar results just by Nikon P1000 . Only thing is Saturn image gets worst after wavelets in Registax . Would like try on your tiff image . Just for comparison
i have telescope 800160 newtonin and dsle camera and thers no focus in vew
Hi Nico,
I’m new at stargazing.
I tried to shoot a video of the moon yesterday with my dslr attached to my scope but I didn’t make it. A message was keep saying that I couldn’t use the video mode as there are no lens.
So I can take photos but not a video.
Any idea please?
Thanks in advance.
Nikos
Hi Nikos, there may be a setting in the menu you can switch off, so that the camera will work even if an official ‘lens’ is not attached. What camera is it?
@@NebulaPhotos It’s a cheap eos4000d.
Thanks for inspiring me through your videos.
@@salonique33 For modern Canon cameras like your 4000D, there should be a setting hidden in the 'custom function' menu, might be under 'others' that will allow you to 'release shutter without lens' make sure that is set to ON and then the camera should be fully operational when connected to a telescope.
Thanks so much Nico,
I’ll have a look later this evening!
Thanks again.
Hmm, I've been considering trying something like that. My Lumix G9 can do 60FPS raw, or 180fps 1080p. It also has bluetooth remote to help with shaking. But I only have a 400mm lens which is probably too short for planets.
For a mft sensor 400mm is like 800mm for a full frame. I think that's usable for planets.
Interesting 🤔
I did the same thing when I got my 6” telescope not bad results, and my mom loves Jupiter got to see it in real life and see the cloud bands
Nice tutorial as usual. Some comments:
1. I took a similar video afocal to my iPhone 6s at 266x, hence with a focal length of 266 times the camera FL of 4.15mm or 1104mm. That's 37% of your FL.
2. My video was still "shaky" 'tho not as much as yours. I was on solid ground and I triggered the exposures without touching the phone via voice "turn the volume down".
3. You did not tell what exposure you used (shutter spd. and ISO). I used ISO 400 @1/250s.
4. With a collapsible tube, I've heard that collimation should be done each time. (My telescope is solid-tube).
5. Your video shows effects of "seeing" (as does mine).
I think I was also around 1/250s for jupiter, but at ISO800. Saturn was much dimmer and I changed to 1/60s. Yes, I really should have collimated. You are right that it's even more important with a collapsible. I'm sure my images would have been a bit sharper if I had remembered.
I'm sorry, How can I config the camera DSLR, I've just bought one second hand and Im don't have any lenses for it, I've all the other staf but I can't make the camera focus, so I don't know if the camera works.The set up is a DSLR 60D + 135mm newtonian telescope an the adapters...
Buy a '2x barlow lens' and the attach it to the t-adapter on your Canon and then slide it in like an eyepiece. Without a barlow, a standard Newtonian won't have enough inward travel to come to focus with a DSLR. The barlow pushes focal plane back allowing the camera to come to focus.
Hi, how would I go about taking Hydrogen Alpha photos of the sun with just a Cannon T3i DSLR with a 300mm lens ? what filters do I need ?
Hi, you can't do H-alpha imaging of the sun with a standard camera lens. Needs to be a telescope with a Daystar Quark attachment or a dedicated solar scope. With a standard lens, you can do white light imaging of the sun with a solar filter (like Thousand Oaks or Baader Astrosolar film).
are they flat too????
Lol, I though you were shooting only with your DLSR :)
Am finding it next to impossible to capture stars with my DSLR Camera but when using my Samsung Mobile .. No issues what so ever .
As for Telescopes .. Is there a Sub £1,000 priced Scope currently on the market for sale that i can attach my Canon 850D
That's likely because you are using a netwonian not designed for imaging with a DSLR, and it won't come to focus. They do make newts with low profile focusers and call them 'imaging netwonians'. Do you already have an equatorial mount?
@@NebulaPhotos Have no mount . Just trying to achieve a simple capture of visable stars is proving rather fustrating yet i can achieve it using a mobile phone .
The likely reason is you have a telescope that is optimized for visual use so it has a long focuser. When you insert an eyepiece, the eyepiece comes to focus and then you are take a photo the eyepiece with your cell phone. With the DSLR you are trying to achieve prime focus, but with a standard telescope designed for visual use the focuser is too long and a DSLR cannot come to focus as there is not enough inward travel. If you want to buy something to fix this, you can use a Barlow lens like I did in this video. A Barlow will push the focal plane back so even a DSLR with its deep set sensor can reach focus with basically any telescope. The downside to a Barlow for star photography is it doubles the focal length so without a mount, you will only be able to photograph very bright stars without trailing. Hope this helps.
New channel name, Planetary Photos!
Are these app compatible with a latitude 3310??
Yes, they will work with any images/videos of the planets or moon.
What does "colomate" mean?
Align the mirrors
Can you try to get the polar caps of Mars next opposition?If anyone you or probably astrobiscuit can pull it off at a low cost :)
PIPP link no longer works 😞
Thanks for letting me know. I'll update it with the web archive link: web.archive.org/web/20230531163522/sites.google.com/site/astropipp/downloads
I just tried and if you click to download it will appear to not work, but give it about 30 seconds and it should then download.
Hey Nico suggest me a DSLR under 600$ for astrophotography for combination with ioptron sky guider pro and samyang 135 lens
Used Canon 80D or Nikon D5600
@@NebulaPhotos is 200d a good option
Yes
Nobody
Absolutely Nobody
The asian tourist's camera objective:
Would it be practical to haul your gear down to ground level to avoid the deck shaking? I wonder how much clearer the images would be. Do you know what your effective shutter speed was for the videos? Maybe 1/100? And what ISO? Would a newer body possibly work better at the video capture? That camera came out in 2010 I believe.
At least in terms of DSLRs, the 1:1 pixel mode is pretty important to avoid compression from scaling. If you have a astronomy camera, you can do ROI (region of interest) to do the same thing. I think BackyardEOS, might also have some interesting features where it reads the video straight off the live view. MagicLantern too if you have an older Canon. So a newer camera may not be better unless it has some ways to not scale the video (either through line-skipping or internal compression). Yes, bringing the telescope down would be much better, but it's quite the ordeal, and actually won't fit in the car after I pack up all my deep sky stuff. Shutter speed was 1/200s for jupiter and 1/60s for saturn. I believe ISO800 for both. But all will be very different based on the particular telescope and barlow being used, so just do it by eye and don't over-expose.
I was in this video
You can get surprisingly good results(sharp detailed images) with an un-guided dob.. and generic DSLR.
The workflow is just longer. Heres an image of Jupiter with my meade 10" lighbridge. unguided. projection method(not as sharp).
i.imgur.com/Z83JSC6.png
My method was to take 3 minute long clips and just allow the planet to drift across the frame, that way its not shaking. And reposition to do that over and over for 3 minutes. The downside is you loose half of your frames while constantly repositioning the scope for the next drift.
Then I'd run it through adobe premiere and "cut out" anytime the entire planet was not in frame, export that as individual tiffs, usually around 5000 frames from a 3 minute video would make the cut(maybe 1:30 worth)
Then recombined them in Pipp into an avi for Autostakkert to process. then registax for wavelets.
Image above was taken with the following setup
Meade 10" lightbridge(hubble optics primary)
sony a6000, set at 1.5x clear image zoom(similar to your crop method i believe)
1080p at 40fps, iso 2500
Baader 6mm plossl(projection method)
2x celestron ultima barlow
And most importantly.. some damn good seeing!
Very nice result! And thanks for the detailed write-up!!