I love the fact that you do these videos on the Mirage! The concept for the oil drain plug is good, but I would be concerned that road debris or a big speed bump might sheer it off causing all the oil to suddenly drain out. Please keep us updated on its durability. I'm super curious. Also, please keep the videos coming.
Those are definitely valid concerns, another thing you may not have thought about is that the Mirage does not have a low oil sensor/indicator light. So a very slow leak could result in the same situation of me starving the engine of oil. As i mentioned in my oil change video this is why the owners manual tells you to check the oil level every time you add fuel. The Mitsubishi warranty allows for 4 Liters of oil to be burned/consumed between oil changes. If you were to fill the oil to the high indicator on the dipstick thats only 0.5L above the low indicator level. That would mean that filling the engine oil from low level to high level 8 times between oil changes is acceptable before warranty will pay out.
@@hugoknight1 we only have a low oil pressure light as explained in my oil change youtube video. For that light to come on you would have to be low on oil to the point that the pump has run dry and is unable to build up oil pressure.
So glad there are a handfu (less than, actually)l of you guys doing all types of videos on these cars. Each and every one from any of you guys always has excellent information. I will be using a twist drain also.
This seems like terrible idea to me.. It isn't that hard to remove a bolt. The cost savings for replacement of the drain plugs is compelling; however, I agree with the assessment the springloaded twist lock design is an engine failure waiting to happen. It would be far too easy of a mistake to make, and failure to fully secure this device could result in a full open drain under pressure. A loose enough plug will definitely spray, but my biggest issue is, the seal can look fine on an initial pressurized inspection, and then completely fail out of the blue.
The oil pan is not pressurized, the PCV system creates a vacuum on engine oil while running to prevent frothing/bubbling. The main benefit in my opinion is that it makes it possible to change oil without tools e.g: wrench, ramps, a jack + stands which can be expensive if you don’t own them and only want to do oil changes.
If my dorman radiator drain plug is bad and it is dripping does it only drip when the car is running or only drip when the car is parked or will it drip all the time snice the plug is bad?
I have never seen an after market drain plug for this car before. I am not sure doorman makes one. It’s possible that it will only leak when the engine and coolant are warm as the radiator is under pressure, it’s also of course possible that it will leak all the time. Have you checked if the washer on the plug is damaged?
Considering the amount of metal flakes I see in the drain pan when changing the oil I would not personally want to use an extractor as all those flakes have settled to the bottom of the pan. If the flakes were suspended in the oil then the pickup tube screen or oil filter would have caught them.
I do not do much driving maybe a couple thousand km a year but so far this has never leaked so I would say it’s working ok. My only concerns are ground clearance and that the dirt at the bottom of the oil pan may not be coming out as this has threads that likely protrude into the pan and because I no longer jack the front of the car up when I change the oil.
I think I have a fuse problem with my license plate light when I put my new light bulbs in and turned in the car they spark out immediately. Is there an issue with my fuse box or something ?
@@johnmason5488 Exactly, I have a low clearance car and often hear ice and snow scrape along the bottom in winter. Thought about getting something similar to this but if it's gonna hang down like that, I will certainly either break it off in those conditions or it'll pop open and dump my oil lol.
I currently am having issues with my engine start button not turning the car all the way off when in park. The electrical remains on when I push the button. I can get it to finally shut off completely when I jiggle the shift lever while in park (I have the CV transmission). I suspect an issue in the parking switch inside the gear shifter console. Any suggestions?
@@hugoknight1 The vehicle is equipped with a shift interlock solenoid. Although i don't think its related to your issue, you may have noticed that with the engine ON and car in park. If you do not touch any pedals, then touch the brake pedal you will hear and feel a slight click in the shifter. That is the solenoid releasing and allowing you to shift out of park. Its a safety feature to prevent you from accidentally shifting out of park. I don't believe the solenoid has a sensor. You should be able to maybe see the solenoid state by pulling on a small cover next to the gear shifter.(i have never touched it) within will be some sort of switch to allow you to bypass the solenoid. Very useful if you want to steal the car as it will let you shift it out of park with the car off. *From your owners manual: "to bring the engine to an emergency stop, press and hold the button for 3 seconds, or press it quickly 3 times or more." is it possible you're unintentionally doing one of those two things?* without any dashboard lights the only thing I can do for you is blindly ask questions: 1. when the car is off can it enter accessory mode normally? 2. will shutting off the car while in neutral cause the issue? 3. how often does it occur (every time you turn the car off or only sometimes)? 4. do brake lights work normally? 5. is cruise control functional? 6. while brake is not depressed and/or engine is off can you confirm the aforementioned shift interlock prevents you from shifting out of park? Fundamentally if the MID screen is displaying park then its very unlikely that any switch within the shifter is the problem.
@@welfarewagonrepairs Great questions, but everything works perfectly otherwise. I've been driving the car for 150k miles, so I know I am turning it off correctly. It is a simple, keyless pushbutton On/Off ignition system. Basically, when I put the car in park and push the button to power down, it powers the engine off but the electrical remains full ON. If I push it again, it goes to ACCESSORY mode. If I push it again, it goes back to ON. I can do this over and over again with the same results. Now, if I jiggle the shifter in PARK while pushing the button, I can eventually get the car to go to full OFF and all is good. My concern is that eventually my "jiggling" of the shifter will no longer work in turning the electrical to full off. It remains a mystery!
@@hugoknight1 what is the difference between engine off and accessory mode? Does one have the battery/power steering/brake lights on? You are able to go from accessory mode to ON mode without the engine cranking and starting? I didn’t think this was possible? Maybe you can share a video for me to better understand the issue? My only possible guess right now with what you’ve provided would be a broken accessory relay that’s sticking in the on position. But that’s unlikely. Alternatively it’s detecting your multiple button presses as an emergency shutoff as described above. With engine on what happens if you rapidly press the start button 3 times?
The budget solution is usually to install an “oversized” drain plug. I think some kits even come with taps. You could also try and glue/weld this in but I am not sure how bad your threads are stripped and how long that would last.
@@welfarewagonrepairs I bought a different design from a veteran owned company called "ValvoMax", which has middle class manufacturing in the USA. Mostly stainless steel construction. It's $44.00, but I found it to be superior to any imports. It also comes with a stainless spigot and hose you drain into whatever container you like, so there should be much less of a mess. Thanks for your review!
@@DUCKSAREEVILLLLLLLL I’m not personally fond of any valve that requires me to not loose a second part of it. Also the hose maybe pointless if you want to change oil without jacking up the car as there isn’t the clearance to put an oil jug down there. Thanks for watching!
@@welfarewagonrepairs I prefer that the valve can't be bumped open. I don't trust that side valve on other versions. What I tend to lose or strip are the cheap, plastic plugs and caps for those large, flat oil containers. I don't need them, anymore. I use lightweight ramps, because I need clearance under the car to remove the oil filter from below, anyway. The spigot and tube of The U.S. made design allows me to direct the oil right into an old oil container, with zero spilling. Those large, flat oil containers always leak or spill in my garage, on the floor, in the driveway, or in the trunk. Ive probably had 6 of them. They're too large and unwieldy. I'd rather just drain the oil into empty oil containers, with handles, with caps ONLY on the top, so they won't leak. Then, I can stick them in a box in my trunk to dump the used oil. I'm done with transferring dirty oil with funnels. It's a mess.
That looks like a blown engine waiting to happen.. I was considering installing one until I saw this video. Thanks man.
Thank you for watching! I also have a followup video on how it looks today after almost a year in use
I love the fact that you do these videos on the Mirage! The concept for the oil drain plug is good, but I would be concerned that road debris or a big speed bump might sheer it off causing all the oil to suddenly drain out. Please keep us updated on its durability. I'm super curious. Also, please keep the videos coming.
Those are definitely valid concerns, another thing you may not have thought about is that the Mirage does not have a low oil sensor/indicator light. So a very slow leak could result in the same situation of me starving the engine of oil. As i mentioned in my oil change video this is why the owners manual tells you to check the oil level every time you add fuel. The Mitsubishi warranty allows for 4 Liters of oil to be burned/consumed between oil changes. If you were to fill the oil to the high indicator on the dipstick thats only 0.5L above the low indicator level. That would mean that filling the engine oil from low level to high level 8 times between oil changes is acceptable before warranty will pay out.
@@welfarewagonrepairs OUCH! I didn't know it didn't have a low oil sensor light.
@@hugoknight1 we only have a low oil pressure light as explained in my oil change youtube video. For that light to come on you would have to be low on oil to the point that the pump has run dry and is unable to build up oil pressure.
So glad there are a handfu (less than, actually)l of you guys doing all types of videos on these cars. Each and every one from any of you guys always has excellent information. I will be using a twist drain also.
U don’t know how much you’ve helped me bro from the bottom of my heart thank you ❤
I’m not sure what you mean but thank you for watching!
@@welfarewagonrepairs ok Just wanted to say that u helped so much so I wanted to say thanks
Another fabulous video. Good job and your fans love them.
Thank you for watching!
This is huge ! It would fit under my '03 Tahoe but not under my '93 mazda Mx6 without rubbing the road blacktop.
Thank you for this review and install demo. I’m definitely buying something else.
This seems like terrible idea to me.. It isn't that hard to remove a bolt. The cost savings for replacement of the drain plugs is compelling; however, I agree with the assessment the springloaded twist lock design is an engine failure waiting to happen. It would be far too easy of a mistake to make, and failure to fully secure this device could result in a full open drain under pressure. A loose enough plug will definitely spray, but my biggest issue is, the seal can look fine on an initial pressurized inspection, and then completely fail out of the blue.
The oil pan is not pressurized, the PCV system creates a vacuum on engine oil while running to prevent frothing/bubbling.
The main benefit in my opinion is that it makes it possible to change oil without tools e.g: wrench, ramps, a jack + stands which can be expensive if you don’t own them and only want to do oil changes.
Thank you for watching and for taking the time to leave a comment!
If my dorman radiator drain plug is bad and it is dripping does it only drip when the car is running or only drip when the car is parked or will it drip all the time snice the plug is bad?
I have never seen an after market drain plug for this car before. I am not sure doorman makes one. It’s possible that it will only leak when the engine and coolant are warm as the radiator is under pressure, it’s also of course possible that it will leak all the time. Have you checked if the washer on the plug is damaged?
I see the ease of use of these easy drain plugs, but I am sold on the MityVac extractor.
Considering the amount of metal flakes I see in the drain pan when changing the oil I would not personally want to use an extractor as all those flakes have settled to the bottom of the pan. If the flakes were suspended in the oil then the pickup tube screen or oil filter would have caught them.
Are you currently happy with that Dorman twist oil drain plug?
I do not do much driving maybe a couple thousand km a year but so far this has never leaked so I would say it’s working ok. My only concerns are ground clearance and that the dirt at the bottom of the oil pan may not be coming out as this has threads that likely protrude into the pan and because I no longer jack the front of the car up when I change the oil.
@@welfarewagonrepairs OK thank you!
I think I have a fuse problem with my license plate light when I put my new light bulbs in and turned in the car they spark out immediately. Is there an issue with my fuse box or something ?
If you install a new bulb then without turning on the engine turn on the lights do the bulbs still “spark out”?
In my humble opinion that oil plug is too exposed.
Thought the same, you go through some deep snow or ice and then what
Great for off road and LOW clearance vehicles ! LOL !
@@johnmason5488 Exactly, I have a low clearance car and often hear ice and snow scrape along the bottom in winter. Thought about getting something similar to this but if it's gonna hang down like that, I will certainly either break it off in those conditions or it'll pop open and dump my oil lol.
I currently am having issues with my engine start button not turning the car all the way off when in park. The electrical remains on when I push the button. I can get it to finally shut off completely when I jiggle the shift lever while in park (I have the CV transmission). I suspect an issue in the parking switch inside the gear shifter console. Any suggestions?
what gear(park, reverse, neutral, drive) is displayed on the MID(small lcd inside gauge cluster) when the issue occurs?
@@welfarewagonrepairs Park is displayed. Is there some sort of switch inside the shift console that could be bad? Thanks for the response!
@@hugoknight1 The vehicle is equipped with a shift interlock solenoid. Although i don't think its related to your issue, you may have noticed that with the engine ON and car in park. If you do not touch any pedals, then touch the brake pedal you will hear and feel a slight click in the shifter. That is the solenoid releasing and allowing you to shift out of park. Its a safety feature to prevent you from accidentally shifting out of park. I don't believe the solenoid has a sensor. You should be able to maybe see the solenoid state by pulling on a small cover next to the gear shifter.(i have never touched it) within will be some sort of switch to allow you to bypass the solenoid. Very useful if you want to steal the car as it will let you shift it out of park with the car off.
*From your owners manual: "to bring the engine to an emergency stop, press and hold the button for 3 seconds, or press it quickly 3 times or more." is it possible you're unintentionally doing one of those two things?*
without any dashboard lights the only thing I can do for you is blindly ask questions:
1. when the car is off can it enter accessory mode normally?
2. will shutting off the car while in neutral cause the issue?
3. how often does it occur (every time you turn the car off or only sometimes)?
4. do brake lights work normally?
5. is cruise control functional?
6. while brake is not depressed and/or engine is off can you confirm the aforementioned shift interlock prevents you from shifting out of park?
Fundamentally if the MID screen is displaying park then its very unlikely that any switch within the shifter is the problem.
@@welfarewagonrepairs Great questions, but everything works perfectly otherwise. I've been driving the car for 150k miles, so I know I am turning it off correctly. It is a simple, keyless pushbutton On/Off ignition system. Basically, when I put the car in park and push the button to power down, it powers the engine off but the electrical remains full ON. If I push it again, it goes to ACCESSORY mode. If I push it again, it goes back to ON. I can do this over and over again with the same results. Now, if I jiggle the shifter in PARK while pushing the button, I can eventually get the car to go to full OFF and all is good. My concern is that eventually my "jiggling" of the shifter will no longer work in turning the electrical to full off. It remains a mystery!
@@hugoknight1 what is the difference between engine off and accessory mode? Does one have the battery/power steering/brake lights on?
You are able to go from accessory mode to ON mode without the engine cranking and starting? I didn’t think this was possible?
Maybe you can share a video for me to better understand the issue? My only possible guess right now with what you’ve provided would be a broken accessory relay that’s sticking in the on position. But that’s unlikely.
Alternatively it’s detecting your multiple button presses as an emergency shutoff as described above.
With engine on what happens if you rapidly press the start button 3 times?
My pan is stripped. I don't think I can install this.
The budget solution is usually to install an “oversized” drain plug. I think some kits even come with taps. You could also try and glue/weld this in but I am not sure how bad your threads are stripped and how long that would last.
Too bad you're not an engineer at Dorman. I'd buy the thing if they used your design idea.
Thank you for the kind words!
@@welfarewagonrepairs I bought a different design from a veteran owned company called "ValvoMax", which has middle class manufacturing in the USA. Mostly stainless steel construction. It's $44.00, but I found it to be superior to any imports. It also comes with a stainless spigot and hose you drain into whatever container you like, so there should be much less of a mess. Thanks for your review!
@@DUCKSAREEVILLLLLLLL I’m not personally fond of any valve that requires me to not loose a second part of it. Also the hose maybe pointless if you want to change oil without jacking up the car as there isn’t the clearance to put an oil jug down there. Thanks for watching!
@@welfarewagonrepairs I prefer that the valve can't be bumped open. I don't trust that side valve on other versions. What I tend to lose or strip are the cheap, plastic plugs and caps for those large, flat oil containers. I don't need them, anymore. I use lightweight ramps, because I need clearance under the car to remove the oil filter from below, anyway. The spigot and tube of The U.S. made design allows me to direct the oil right into an old oil container, with zero spilling. Those large, flat oil containers always leak or spill in my garage, on the floor, in the driveway, or in the trunk. Ive probably had 6 of them. They're too large and unwieldy. I'd rather just drain the oil into empty oil containers, with handles, with caps ONLY on the top, so they won't leak. Then, I can stick them in a box in my trunk to dump the used oil. I'm done with transferring dirty oil with funnels. It's a mess.
No way would I trust that thing. Looks like something Stockton Rush built.
Too messy