It works surprisingly well! Back in the ‘80’s I pretty much only used an incident meter… but I was doing mostly portraits of individuals. It’s good to have the capability to incident meter again. 😁
Thanks for a great review. New to photography and wondering why you’re using your front facing camera as you mentioned when explaining incident metering. Why did I think that we would use the rear facing camera? Could you please explain? Cheers!
I’ve just downloaded the pro version. I’ve been after a reliable phone metering app for a while. A couple I had tried only measured reflective and were not great. For the price this is worth a shot, thanks for sharing this one Jim, very useful 👍🏻
Great Video James, fantastic explanation of the difference between incidence and reflectance, light meter, but most importance is that you and remember when cameras didn't have light meters .! thanks for sharing
@@VintageInsightPhotography A Mamiya RZ67 pro ii! I'm psyched to use it, but as a beginner it's a bit intimidating, especially since film costs are so high and I don't want to waste film haha
@@zephyrw2173 Good find! The RB and RZ67s were the standard cameras used by portrait/wedding studios in the 1970’s/80’s. I had an RZ back in the mid 80’s. The winding mechanism was known to be problematic. The gearing to simultaneously cock the camera and advance the film was prone to failure. If I remember correctly, the RZ can use either the RZ or RB back. With the RB back, you’ll need to remember to advance the film in addition to cocking the shutter & dropping the mirror. Still, it’s a great camera and you’re lucky to have it!
Thanks for sharing. I'm going to get back into film soon with an old Canon VT de luxe. So, this is great information and will be useful to me as I gain practice with film again. Cheers.
Thanks for taking the time. Great Info. Regarding myLightMeter Pro, Did you have trouble getting the calibration to even work? Both calibration functions are grayed out. Again this is the Pro Version. They don't work. Did I miss a button somewhere? I do that a lot.
I just checked. The app is working fine for me. I'm on v1.9.8 on an iPhone 14 Pro iOS 16.3.1. David has really updated the app lately. Lots of new features have been added since I did this walkthrough. Thanks for watching!
I never used the EV scale. ASA, shutter speed, and aperture were enough for my brain to keep track of! 🤣 Here's an article I found about EV: expertphotography.com/exposure-value/
Thank you for an informative vid! A question: why shutter speed goes from 8000 to 1 and then again to 30? What that orange 1-30 sequence mean? Talking about LightMeter.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. The orange numbers on the app are full seconds. The white numbers are fractions of seconds. In other words, the orange numbers are 1 second to 30 seconds. The white numbers are from 1/2 second to 1/8000 second.
I was hoping to understand the ev setting.. is it something I don’t have to look into since it wasn’t talked about ? I don’t know what I’m suppose to do with it
Great explanation on the app Jim, looks really cool. I've never used one before. Have you ever compared how a light meter (not the app) measures the light to how a DSLR camera/mirrorless camera reading the light? Just wondering if the results would be similar...Great video as always!
Thanks, Paul. The meters built into modern digital cameras work amazingly well. The computer has been programmed with many common scenarios that the metering system will recognize. In other words, it’s using an algorithm to calculate exposure, not the 18% gray. The meter in a vintage film camera is nowhere near that sophisticated and is easily fooled by dark, light, or backlit scenes. Plus, film cameras have no LCD screen to preview the image and exposure. IMHO, it’s like learning to drive a stick… there’s value in knowing how to downshift to accelerate. 🚗💨
Between the reflected and incident modes? I assumed the reflected metering was accurate. More accurate than using an incident dome hacked out of an old 35mm plastic canister. Thanks for watching!
With a digital camera, you can just bracket. It costs you nothing, unlike with a film camera. Also, there's a lot of room to fix minor problems in post-processing. Would a real film shooter accept iPhone as hi Seconic double? I doubt that.
Well... No... 😁 Bracketing in bright sun light on a snowy landscape? Have fun. 😁 I don't want to mess around in Lightroom with 300-400% of exposure trash.
I was actually surprised how well the app worked. MUCH cheaper than a Sekonic. BUT, if I were transported back to the 1980's I'd be using my Sekonic to set my Hasselblad, 😉
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Cool hack with the film canister.
It works surprisingly well! Back in the ‘80’s I pretty much only used an incident meter… but I was doing mostly portraits of individuals. It’s good to have the capability to incident meter again. 😁
Thank you very much!! 🥰
Hey man nice to see this notification on my phone. I remember asking about this. Thank you for taking the time.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I hope to do some more tutorials here.
Thanks for a great review. New to photography and wondering why you’re using your front facing camera as you mentioned when explaining incident metering. Why did I think that we would use the rear facing camera? Could you please explain?
Cheers!
I’ve just downloaded the pro version. I’ve been after a reliable phone metering app for a while. A couple I had tried only measured reflective and were not great. For the price this is worth a shot, thanks for sharing this one Jim, very useful 👍🏻
You’re most welcome! I have really enjoyed this app and am happy to share it with others.
Great video. Love your clarity and communication of knowledge!
Thank you. You made my day.
Great Video James, fantastic explanation of the difference between incidence and reflectance, light meter, but most importance is that you and remember when cameras didn't have light meters .! thanks for sharing
Thanks so much, Tony. Yeah, I’ve been around for a while. 🤣🤣
Great presentation indeed.Thanks for sharing👍
Very nice guide, I recently started shooting fully manual film and the myLightMeter App has gotten me good results.
Thanks so much. I’m glad you found it useful.
Thank you for the demonstration! I just got my first SLR and it’s all new to me, so this is just what I needed!
You’re welcome. What camera did you get?
@@VintageInsightPhotography A Mamiya RZ67 pro ii! I'm psyched to use it, but as a beginner it's a bit intimidating, especially since film costs are so high and I don't want to waste film haha
@@zephyrw2173 Good find! The RB and RZ67s were the standard cameras used by portrait/wedding studios in the 1970’s/80’s. I had an RZ back in the mid 80’s. The winding mechanism was known to be problematic. The gearing to simultaneously cock the camera and advance the film was prone to failure. If I remember correctly, the RZ can use either the RZ or RB back. With the RB back, you’ll need to remember to advance the film in addition to cocking the shutter & dropping the mirror.
Still, it’s a great camera and you’re lucky to have it!
@@VintageInsightPhotography Thank you for the heads-up! My main focus will be portraiture so it's nice to hear that I made the right choice
Thanks for sharing. I'm going to get back into film soon with an old Canon VT de luxe. So, this is great information and will be useful to me as I gain practice with film again. Cheers.
Glad you found it helpful.
Nice video. I’ve been also been enjoying using this app for some time.
Thanks for watching. Are you using it with a film camera?
Hey Jim nice video and explanation mate and very interesting subject.
Thanks Jeremy! 😁
Thanks for taking the time. Great Info. Regarding myLightMeter Pro, Did you have trouble getting the calibration to even work? Both calibration functions are grayed out. Again this is the Pro Version. They don't work. Did I miss a button somewhere? I do that a lot.
I just checked. The app is working fine for me. I'm on v1.9.8 on an iPhone 14 Pro iOS 16.3.1. David has really updated the app lately. Lots of new features have been added since I did this walkthrough. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Best video on light meters and the current apps. But what is the EV frame for at the bottom left of the app? Cheers!
I never used the EV scale. ASA, shutter speed, and aperture were enough for my brain to keep track of! 🤣 Here's an article I found about EV: expertphotography.com/exposure-value/
@@VintageInsightPhotography thank you!
Thank you for an informative vid! A question: why shutter speed goes from 8000 to 1 and then again to 30? What that orange 1-30 sequence mean? Talking about LightMeter.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. The orange numbers on the app are full seconds. The white numbers are fractions of seconds. In other words, the orange numbers are 1 second to 30 seconds. The white numbers are from 1/2 second to 1/8000 second.
@@VintageInsightPhotography Thank you! 🙏
I was hoping to understand the ev setting.. is it something I don’t have to look into since it wasn’t talked about ? I don’t know what I’m suppose to do with it
can you use this app to measure strobes??
I don't think so. Back in the day (1980's) we used a specialized light meter to measure strobe output.
Very interesting 💓
Thank you. 😘
Hi
Very nice video.
Do i need to calibrate the reflected option (front camera)It is set to 0 by default.
Thanks.
I have found the myLightMeter app to be extremely accurate.
Thanks for doing this video! Most helpful. Question: How did you finally sync the calibration on the incident and reflective metering modes?
You’re very welcome. The app has an adjustment for both reflected and incident metering. I was able to dial it in fairly close.
Great explanation on the app Jim, looks really cool. I've never used one before. Have you ever compared how a light meter (not the app) measures the light to how a DSLR camera/mirrorless camera reading the light? Just wondering if the results would be similar...Great video as always!
Thanks, Paul. The meters built into modern digital cameras work amazingly well. The computer has been programmed with many common scenarios that the metering system will recognize. In other words, it’s using an algorithm to calculate exposure, not the 18% gray.
The meter in a vintage film camera is nowhere near that sophisticated and is easily fooled by dark, light, or backlit scenes. Plus, film cameras have no LCD screen to preview the image and exposure.
IMHO, it’s like learning to drive a stick… there’s value in knowing how to downshift to accelerate. 🚗💨
A great vlog Jim, this will come in handy when I'm messing around with those film cameras I own that don't have their own built in meters.
Glad you enjoyed it and found it useful! I’m thinking of making a “Film Photography 101” series. Film camera basics & tips.
@@VintageInsightPhotography I'm sure that will be very helpful to those new to film and folks like me who can't remember what we did know 😄
So how do you know the meter was off 2 stops?
Between the reflected and incident modes? I assumed the reflected metering was accurate. More accurate than using an incident dome hacked out of an old 35mm plastic canister. Thanks for watching!
Nice to Meter you and your App! 19th Dec 2024 - UK
Hahaha!
With a digital camera, you can just bracket. It costs you nothing, unlike with a film camera.
Also, there's a lot of room to fix minor problems in post-processing.
Would a real film shooter accept iPhone as hi Seconic double? I doubt that.
Well... No... 😁
Bracketing in bright sun light on a snowy landscape? Have fun. 😁
I don't want to mess around in Lightroom with 300-400% of exposure trash.
I was actually surprised how well the app worked. MUCH cheaper than a Sekonic. BUT, if I were transported back to the 1980's I'd be using my Sekonic to set my Hasselblad, 😉