CUCV M1028 Project Part 3 - Charging Ahead
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- Опубліковано 3 лис 2021
- In this episode we continue our work on this recently revived M1028 CUCV. It didn't start. It had no lights. The wiring was completely hacked and fried. There was a dashboard fire, etc. We brought this zombie truck back to life last time. Problems we will tackle this time are:
1.) Getting the truck inspection ready. Gotta get legal before toolin' around town. You can get that cool license plate light on Amazon! www.amazon.com/dp/B08NG2G616?...
2.) Swap out that faulty glow plug control card for an upgraded card from Hillbilly Wizard. Get it straight from them! www.hillbillywizard.com
3.) Replace the under-dash map light. Here's the part I used from Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8IR7W?...
4.) Replacing a faulty alternator (generator) and discussing the charging system. Here's the part from Amazon (I said Ebay in the video, but it was Amazon): www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y3NTAI?...
5.) Replacing the stock voltmeter with an Autometer 2651 that I got straight from Autometer. Here's the part! www.autometer.com/2-1-16-volt...
6.) Repair a faulty temperature control panel including frozen cables and blower motor not working.
7.) Bonus! We run to Lou's Custom Exhaust and get a gorgeous custom 2-into-1 exhaust and go for a little ride. This is a 3” single tucked out the corner with Lou's Custom SS409 24” Free Flow muffler. Wear headphones or use good speakers for a real eargasm! www.louskingston.com/
...and more!
We're calling this hunk o' junk the CUCV Classroom and it surely has a lot to teach us! Many of the common CUCV problems are covered in this video. We brought this dead truck back to life! Let's charge it up and set it loose on the streets! The ZOMBIE TRUCK lives!
Great work! I've installed a multifunction digital electric meter. Shows voltage, current, energy and power.
I considered those, but wanted to keep a more old-school look with the analog needle gauge. I bet it looks good though. Wish they allowed photos in the comments. Thanks for watching, Keith.
You've proved that knowledge not shared is wasted
I just had to subscribe in order to make sure I can do the same stuff you're doing my man. Good stuff!
You really should save the original alternators because they're rare isolated ground units and it's much better to get them rebuilt than using chinese eBay units that aren't correct.
You seem very knowledgeable bout these. If you can find some time. I need some advice and help over here..I'm also located in Massachusetts.
Msg me at my FB page and we can try to figure it out. facebook.com/revjohnnytyler
Nothing a good lashing can't fix, lol
Right?!? Ha ha. I suppose I could just work on my patience...
Nah!
This works!
When mounting the 2nd alternator what bracket did you use? The one that was on or was it a special order othe cucv don’t have ac right? So is it a bracket that was already in there ready to go? The cucv comes with 2 alternator’s right?
Hi Dan. That is the bracket that came with the truck. CUCV comes with 2 gens... 24v charging (no AC).
brother I wish youd take all your cucv videos and put them on dvd for sale
How do you have a manual glow plug button and a key wired for both? I have manual and think going back to key would be better but button would be good for winter
With the stock key ignition still working, all that is required to add a push button is to tap anywhere off the light blue wire that goes to your glow plug relay and ground it (your relay has one big red wire, a set of orange wires, a small pink wire and that small light blue wire). Your push button basically has one post grounded and the other attached to the light blue wire. You can attach it right at the GP relay nut and run it into the truck to the button, or tap right off the light blue wire at the glow plug controller card inside the cab, under the dash, driver's side. Thanks for watching, 4S.
Hillbilly wizard sells brand new updated glowplug cards so you can retain the extra functions.
Is it a preference to merge the two mufflers or does it offers an advantage? I prefer the stock look but if there's an advantage then I'll go that route, but the after sound is like a well tuned guitar.
Honestly, on this motor in a non-turbo state, you won't really notice a performance difference at all. The original dual pipes on these are 2-1/2 to the mufflers and 2-1/4 the rest of the way out. I don't want to get into wicked details, but in short, the 3" single with the flow-through muffler allows a little more flow-through when all is said and done. Maybe 30-60 CFM (cubic feet per minute) after you account for how many crimps/bends there are in the system. Benefit of single exhaust is cost, of course, as a dual exhaust has more pipe and 2 mufflers involved that you will pay for. Another benefit is that I could get the pipe up higher than stock and give myself more clearance in the back after axle. One benefit of keeping dual exhaust is that if something goes wrong in the motor... A sticky injector for example, you can tell which side of the motor it is on as the smoke will come from that side's tailpipe, etc. This is mostly personal preference for me. Less is more.
Oh... And it just sounds great! Way better than even NEW stock exhaust IMO.
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage understand fully, these 6.2 are naturally aspirated, would you recommend turbo?
@@shawnlawrence4840 I personally don't mess with turbo on these things. It could add about 45HP, but you really have to baby your motor once you turbo it. Turbo decreases the life expectancy of these motors by about 3% even when babied. I'm not against the turbo and might do one for fun later, but i couldn't recommend nor preach against a turbo on a 6.2 J-code.
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage
Stock, these engines draw 350 cubic feet per minute at 3600 RPM. Injection volume is 48 mm^3 per stroke. The stock dual is more than enough if the head pipes are replaced with mandrel bends, stock wrinkle bends are restrictive at higher RPM but still tiny at 1.23 PSI. This data from GM Service Manual for the engine.
What does the little orange wire go to on the passenger side alternator? Mine is broken.
Start the video at exactly 25 minutes and you'll see where that orange wire goes. It goes from the top stud on gen 2 over to the 24v bar. It shares the stud with the big 24v wire on gen 2.
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage thank you for your response. I saw where the orange wire mounts to on the alternator, but I was wondering where it goes on the other end. I figured out earlier that it goes to the diagnostic system and you don’t actually need it. Mine is broken off on my truck.
Have any idea why mine would lose throttle response coming off a hill at high rpm? The longer I coast, the longer it takes to get throttle response, when it does come back, its all at once and is harsh on drivetrain. If I throw in neutral and let rpms fall the throttle response comes back much faster. No o haven't changed the filter yet.
Oof! Tough one via comment section. Definitely start your focus on the IP. Maybe a dirty check valve. Could be some IP seals starting to go. So many things it could be. Sounds like your truck is draining the top of the IP when your foot is off the pedal and the engine is still at high revs.
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage where would this check valve have his home?
@@mblake0420 The return check valve is on top of the IP. There's a short fuel line coming out of it... The return line. That check valve has a glass ball in it. It could be gunked up. Try carefully cleaning that with brake cleaner and a small nail or something. make sure it works like a ball valve should. You can even temporarily bypass it to see if the truck runs better (Don't leave it bypassed).
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage that actually makes sense to me too. Definitely will check into it
@@mblake0420 Good luck, Blake.