Alright idk if I'm just stupid but this tool does absolutely nothing for me, no matter how hard I press or how many times I turn it it doesn't remove the crimp....... so I took the advice here and stuck in a drill but that somehow, also did nothing. This is a small pocket tool but it doesn't seem like the bladed part is contacting anything as it bottoms out. I'm at a loss here and ended up mangling a bunch of 300 blackout brass with a drill bit. The drill bit works fine but it's easy to remove too much, unfortunately didn't realize those till after but the best way wad actually putting the drill bit in a vice and then doing it by hand.
@@whatsmolly5741 totally have to be willing to lose a few but it's a much cheaper and faster way than a lot of other options. Just make sure if you kinda overdo it and the pocket wasn't as tight as other brass I would advise against using it.
The Lyman VLD reamer will do a great job reaming 5.56 pockets. The blunt tip of the reamer will bottom out on the pocket bottom and give more consistent crimp removal.
I have the Lyman Case Prep Station and it has the deburring bit included for both sizes honestly it is the best $160.00 I ever spent plus you can buy the Lee case trim gauges and use them on it as well very inexpensive speeds everything up
Swage or cut, that's the options. One line of thinking is that it is bad to remove any brass by cutting some away due to possibly weakening the case head. The other side says so little is removed it doesn't matter. I personally haven't heard of anyone blowing up cases because they cut away a tiny amount of brass from the edge of the primer pocket.
The lyman you can put it in a drill. Just did my first 150. Eff doing it by hand. I did them all and primers would not seat. Had to redo all of them with the uniformer on speed 2. Brass flying everywhere. Primers seated much better
@@shortreloadingvideos7571 it is a hardened steel. A moderate snug in a drill chuck will not hurt the threads. In a 1.5 sec trigger squeeze of the drill you have a brand new milled pocket. I will leave you a comment after We try the Ammo out. Have to do a work up as this is my first time loading .223
No need to chuck the threads into your drill. Go to Lowes, or like, and get 3 common flat nuts. I think the thread’s are #8, just take your tool bit with you. The you screw the nuts on to the tool bit and then your drill chucks on to the nuts. Less than a couple bucks for the nuts and no need to chuck up on those threads.
After buying crimped range brass, it will be my last purchase if at all possible. Do you have untold hours with nothing better to do? Do you like spending money for various crimp removal products that don't work worth a damn and end up with brass that is kinda questionable for reloading? Then buying crimped brass may be your ticket to salvation.
Well……….actually yes…….I’m retired and get countless hours of enjoyment trying and experimenting with new ways to improve on old reloading challenges. I buy a 1000 rds of range and once fired brass and process each one with the tools I’ve experimented with to keep improving my methods. I
man idk whatd id do without reloaders uploading to yt. thanks. just started the journey and soaking up what yall are putting out
I've used the chamfer tool many times .
Great! Thank you making this video. I was looking for a more pronounced crimp but what I was seeing is in fact the crimp. Thanks, again.
The lyman tool, the big copper colored one has bits that you can chuck up into a drill. 100% worth it and does a fantastic job.
Yeah I just got that Limon tool I put that thing in a drill chuck and I was ripping through some friggin brass bro
Alright idk if I'm just stupid but this tool does absolutely nothing for me, no matter how hard I press or how many times I turn it it doesn't remove the crimp....... so I took the advice here and stuck in a drill but that somehow, also did nothing. This is a small pocket tool but it doesn't seem like the bladed part is contacting anything as it bottoms out.
I'm at a loss here and ended up mangling a bunch of 300 blackout brass with a drill bit. The drill bit works fine but it's easy to remove too much, unfortunately didn't realize those till after but the best way wad actually putting the drill bit in a vice and then doing it by hand.
@@whatsmolly5741 totally have to be willing to lose a few but it's a much cheaper and faster way than a lot of other options. Just make sure if you kinda overdo it and the pocket wasn't as tight as other brass I would advise against using it.
I watched a video of a guy using a drill mounted philips #1 and #2 bit to clean out a crimp.. going to try it
I hope it works!!
Have you tried a knife? It works also. And it doesn't grind away the primer pocket.
The Lyman VLD reamer will do a great job reaming 5.56 pockets. The blunt tip of the reamer will bottom out on the pocket bottom and give more consistent crimp removal.
I have the Lyman Case Prep Station and it has the deburring bit included for both sizes honestly it is the best $160.00 I ever spent plus you can buy the Lee case trim gauges and use them on it as well very inexpensive speeds everything up
Great advice!
Swage or cut, that's the options. One line of thinking is that it is bad to remove any brass by cutting some away due to possibly weakening the case head. The other side says so little is removed it doesn't matter. I personally haven't heard of anyone blowing up cases because they cut away a tiny amount of brass from the edge of the primer pocket.
I used to think swaging was better than cutting primer pockets but cutting is easier to tell later if the crimp has been removed.
Watch out for leaking primer pockets. They can ruin a nice bolt.
The lyman you can put it in a drill. Just did my first 150. Eff doing it by hand. I did them all and primers would not seat. Had to redo all of them with the uniformer on speed 2. Brass flying everywhere. Primers seated much better
I was not willing to remove it from the handle. I have done an awful lot by hand I'm afraid to say lol
@@shortreloadingvideos7571 it is a hardened steel. A moderate snug in a drill chuck will not hurt the threads.
In a 1.5 sec trigger squeeze of the drill you have a brand new milled pocket.
I will leave you a comment after We try the Ammo out. Have to do a work up as this is my first time loading .223
I put the primers in all 230 rounds. Perfect fit. Ill make a video after my next brass scavenge
No need to chuck the threads into your drill. Go to Lowes, or like, and get 3 common flat nuts. I think the thread’s are #8, just take your tool bit with you.
The you screw the nuts on to the tool bit and then your drill chucks on to the nuts.
Less than a couple bucks for the nuts and no need to chuck up on those threads.
Spend 100 bucks, buy the Dillon and don't look back!
I will never own anything blue :P
After buying crimped range brass, it will be my last purchase if at all possible. Do you have untold hours with nothing better to do? Do you like spending money for various crimp removal products that don't work worth a damn and end up with brass that is kinda questionable for reloading? Then buying crimped brass may be your ticket to salvation.
True words!
Well……….actually yes…….I’m retired and get countless hours of enjoyment trying and experimenting with new ways to improve on old reloading challenges. I buy a 1000 rds of range and once fired brass and process each one with the tools I’ve experimented with to keep improving my methods. I