MUST WATCH BEFORE CHOOSING A SMART STAT THERMOSTAT!
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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A small difference in selection could make a huge difference when choosing a smart thermostat. This is the no 1 thing to be looking for before making your selection of smart stat.
Tado vs nest smart thermostat vs hive thermostat.
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Please please leave the music out mate, it's difficult concentrating on the important information you're saying, really appreciate the video tho, keep up the good work. Thanks.
keep the bloopers mate, makes you human again ;)
Thanks Daniel. Really appreciate the feedback. It was much quieter in edit!!
@@HeatGeek Just in case this helps: Were you editing with headphones on? Best to check sound with and without headphones to cover the fact that people listen to media differently. Thanks for the great content :)
I’ve just released a course detailing everything you need to know to become a heating genius! What’s more it’s been recognised by the UK government department BEIS which have offered to heavily subsidised the first 300 spaces!
courses.heatgeek.com/
I agree, the music distracts and adds nothing for me.
Having moved house several times, I found that the best thing (besides energy savings) about weather compensation and room optimization is that you don't notice it - that is until you move on to a new house with conventional on-off controls and realize immediately how very poor these controls are at maintaining a stable temperature! Since you can save money and be much more comfortable at the same time, I really don't understand why these systems are not completely standard already. I think unfortunately that's largely due to ignorance and lack of knowledge in the heating sector - many of these systems are not difficult to install and use - so it's great to see that you are spreading the word with your blog.
A great explanation. I dread explaining this to customers. When you explain that you have range rated the boiler and then start to explain open therm controls and the modulation of the boiler. You see the vacant stare looking straight through you and you know you have lost them. I can point them to this video now and they can watch it over and over!!
Great stuff!
I’ve just released a course detailing everything you need to know to become a heating genius! What’s more it’s been recognised by the UK government department BEIS which have offered to heavily subsidised the first 300 spaces!
courses.heatgeek.com/
Such a shame they glaze over. I was once one of those customers and I would have appreciated a plumber like you
That's if they know where their boiler is
This whole channel is so good, technically, and so interesting. Thanks.
So kind! thanks🙌🙌
I understand all this but god help me I can’t explain in this way when facing customers questions. Brilliant 👍🏻
So glad you've said this!! I feel like if weve helped even 1 engineer it was worth it!!!
Share the vid with the customers ;)
As simple as that 😅
I’ve just released a course detailing everything you need to know to become a heating genius! What’s more it’s been recognised by the UK government department BEIS which have offered to heavily subsidised the first 300 spaces!
courses.heatgeek.com/
This was totally unexpected and incredibly helpful, thank you! So refreshing to find straightforward and valuable content
Thanks!! 😁
I’ve just released a course detailing everything you need to know to become a heating genius! What’s more it’s been recognised by the UK government department BEIS which have offered to heavily subsidised the first 300 spaces!
courses.heatgeek.com/
@@HeatGeek hi I need some help I’m wanting to install a combi with 2x zone valves one rads and other underfloor heating I want to run weather comp through open therm looked into the EPH cp4i which could do the opentherm but I’m unsure on how the connect switch live from the zone valve. Any help would be much appreciated thanks 😊
After a house fire I had the opportunity to replumb my house. I researched "load compensation" and got a system (Evohome/Intergas) which does it. Honestly the best decision I ever made. Plumbers will tell you about efficiency but load compensation makes your place more COMFORTABLE. In other places I used to fiddle with the thermostat every week but no more. Load compensation just makes your home more comfortable by maintaining the right temperature and my boiler just hums instead of making horrid noises. I started as a stupid "I need a 50kw boiler" customer. Now I've educated myself through these videos I see how stupid I was. I never use more than 25kw to heat my home and even in those -2 temperatures last week it used 15kw most of the time, and in the Autumn it is more like 7 kw.
Guess that's the difference with Intergas boilers, seems many conventional combi boilers need to have 35 kW capability to provide 'instant' hot water - when modulation controls are fitted for room heating presumably only a fraction of the boiler's max power output is utilised.
Hi Robert. Which boiler & heating controls do you have please? I need a new boiler so this is my time to upgrade
@@1dozmos I have an Intergas boiler and I use Honeywell evohome as a controller
I've got a Vaillant Ecotech Plus 630, VRC700f controller and external weather sensor, VR920 gateway, VR50 Ambisense TRVs and VR51 temp sensors in most rooms. Expensive - Yes. Efficient - Probably Saving money - No idea Comfortable - Most definitely!!
A true 'fit and forget' setup that allows separate temperature control for the rooms occupied by my elderly MIL and lower temps elsewhere.
We have a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 38CDi Classic ErP boiler, and currently a Hive controller, though I understand now that was far from the best option (both installed by Scottish Gas 4-5 years ago). We have a 1990 4-bed bungalow, so currently expensive to heat due to large footprint and poor insulation. I'd be interested to hear about better smart thermostat options, especially one with room/zone controls (as I tend to stay in 1 room for most of each workday until the evening). I was initially attracted to the Tado solution, but am put off by them dropping modulation control from the wireless kit.
Clearing up confusion with a thoughtfully produced video. I could direct one my customers here for a nice overview & comprehensive explanation that is talking to end users & not at them.
Equally I could direct a fellow heating installer here that wants a nice overview, loving the summary of benefits of lower temps & wear & tear.
I have been taling about these benefits for over a decade, but could never round it up in such a clean & concise manner.
Thanks peter!
I’ve just released a course detailing everything you need to know to become a heating genius! What’s more it’s been recognised by the UK government department BEIS which have offered to heavily subsidised the first 300 spaces!
courses.heatgeek.com/
Informative presentation giving easy to understand explanation of various control methods to achieve max bang for buck from your heating system. Adam has assured me that Bruce Willis will endorsing Heat Geek’s excellent advice by swinging by the stage on a Tarzan rope. Keep up the good work, love the informal, concise but fun approach to the available technology driven options.
Not a tech geek, a Reg'd Blind fairly fit pensioner. 4yrs ago needed a new boiler. Got the same national company to install it - Vaillant eco Tech 832 + a "free" TADO. No manual came with it, the electrical guy who installed it gave me a rapidfire explanation of how to work it. I told him - no comprende but reply was "every day is a school day." I sleep with my bedroom window open summer and winter and open all the other windows throughout the day as weather allows. The main radiator in the hall has the TADO temp control near it. This radiator positively glows especially when I have turned off some of the others. This leads me to think the TADO is meant to heat the whole house to a specific temp and will push this radiator to do that making the hall swelter. Prior to the TADO I had a timer and each of the thermostats on individual radiators set to my preference with no problems. Fuel bill up. Thoughts please? McIntyre
Hi there. Theres too much going on here.. you need a decent heating engineer to look at it. I can suggest one if you let me knowntour location. Stay away from national installers.
Just for some feedback. Did anyone watch the bloopers at the end? Should I leave these in? My wife though I left it in by accident 🤣
Yeah, keep those in.
@@thomassmart8403 thanks mate
Bloopers are always good. Agree to tur down the music a little though. Distracting.
I enjoyed the bloopers! Might be helpful to introduce them with a "Bloopers" sign.
Very Very Very helpful video. I beg you, please don't use that background music, I had to rewind multiple times just to listen what you were saying.
It depends whether the boiler supports opentherm comm protocol. If the boiler does not, even Nest will apply on/off modulation. Also, the system dynamics can be controlled perfectly even with on/off modulation to avoid oscillations
It goes in to compatibility in the video and it doesn't have to support opentherm. Not sure what you mean by oscillations if you mean over shoot and undershorts sure.. but the flow temperature still over and undershoots so misses the point..
An eye-opening video that stopped me purchasing the wrong things, no doubt. Thank you!
Please can you advise the best solution for me?
Medium-large-ish flat.
Worcester 15Ri boiler powering:
10 x radiators spread out.
3 x towel rails in the bathrooms.
Hot water tank.
Main issues:
(1) Night: Heating is off (preferred). But one bedroom gets too cold (drops to 16C in cold winder with the heating off).
I use an old-filled electric heater connected to a smart plug that goes on and off every 15 mins. I'd rather just use the radiator but that's wasteful based on my existing controls.
(2) During the day probably only one room is occupied (sometimes two), but I have to heat the whole flat. Wasteful. So it means constantly reaching for the thermostat to manually control the on/off. I could use another electric heater and smart plug but this approach is just like sticking on band-aids.
What I'd like to achieve:
(1) Have a device that controls the heating and hot water (as now).
(2) Individual control of the room you want to heat, when you want to heat it. Solves my main issues above.
(3) Set a timer to turn on/off the heating by room (or by radiator if there are smart TRVs that do this).
(4) Smart enough to control based on other smart automation in my home (e.g. motion sensors etc.), and voice-controllable by-room using Google Assistant, and preferably detect when a window is open to shut off that radiator.
(5) Avoid WiFi if possible. I use SmartThings for all my smart home stuff, which works on Zigbee. I haven't searched extensively but I think there probably aren't any Zigbee-based thermostatic controllers and smart TRVs, yet. Overall this point is less important.
(6) Preferable something I can install by myself. I'm handy enough. This is the least important because it's easiest to pay, smile and get it solved.
Note: I'll avoid swapping out the bathroom TRVs otherwise they will look pretty unmatched.
Any help appreciated!
What a surprise! I didn't expect such a thorough explanation, it really influenced my purchase decision (went for TADO). Kudos for the attention given to the audio and video production: compared to other specialised channel it's been a + 👍🏼
Thanks Andrea!!!
@Andrea Mazzotta May I ask why you went with Tado over hive and nest?
At last someone who thinks like I do, I have been fitting Vaillant or Glow worm outside weather comp systems for 11 years now, from their 1st hard wired outside sensor to the Glow worm Systempro controller, what I really like is that it was the only system control package that allowed 3 zone wireless heating and a wireless outside sensor making the install simple and compliant with Energy Efficiency regs, its been brilliant gear and I have had really good help from their tech team.
At home I run underfloor heating with no blending pump downstairs as one zone and upstairs I have low temp rads with fans below that run on the same water temp as the underfloor heating in that second zone, the controls are Systempro3, wireless outside sensor, and two wireless Climapro2 room stats. I do use an unvented solar cylinder but both coils are connected to the boiler for super fast reheat times, in fact the high performance shower can not depleted the hot water store as it recovers in hot water priority faster than can be used, I am saving over £300 a year, plus its on from October until May. keep up the good information on here, its great.
Wow you definitely know your stuff Derek!!
You should join us on our Facebook forum!!!
What is your total bill then? My total gas spend is £300 a year!
@@Benzknees kind of useless unless you have exactly the same house and use it exactly the same..
@@HeatGeek - As useless as saying ‘I’m saving £300 a year’?
@@Benzknees no, that's real world savings.. it shows a measured improvement by stating a difference with a relatively fixed variables. The variables to compare your figure could sit anywhere.. you maybe in a bedsit with a gas hob and no gas heating for all we know lol
We have a Valiant Eco Tec Plus 937 with VRC 430 Weather compensator. 4 Bed detached house occupied 24/7 (work from home), 9 Rads. Often I have to adjust the heating curve from with the settings in the spring/autumn, as I understand this is basically the same as how "aggressive" the modulation is. The problem is the whole house is set up as one zone and I want individual control per room/area (downstairs is open plan). I feel like the VRC430 does a good job of reducing HC water temp to only what is required but the issue is we have too many rads on when we don't need them on.
its not that straight forward. sometimes your better off heating empty rooms as it means you can use a lower flow temperature and curve.. we have a video on this for heat pumps but the same applies for boilers.. ua-cam.com/video/zpTVIeUh04E/v-deo.html
@@HeatGeek that has kinda made my head explode and knocked that idea on the head, especially as it would be expensive to find out if smart controls help! I have set up 19 degrees with 18 set back, but my one stat reads 20 at the moment in the hallway. Heat Curve is set to 1.5, its 2 degrees outside and to be honest its more than warm enough in the rooms we sit in, probably 21+. Should I reduce the heating curve or the called for room temp? Rads go super hot when its very cold out and seems to over estimate requirements. I really want to reduce my carbon emissions (and bills) but keep running into brick walls with this. ASHP too expensive/not viable, foam insulation £6k to install and potentially makes house hard to sell/mortgage, windows very expensive/marginal, total house retrofit outside price range.
Maybe I should just turn heating right down and turn on small electric heaters as and when?
Great video and a perfect explanation that will back up us installers and what we’re trying to achieve with our customers. 🙌🏻
Thanks!😊 more to come
I’ve just released a course detailing everything you need to know to become a heating genius! What’s more it’s been recognised by the UK government department BEIS which have offered to heavily subsidised the first 300 spaces!
courses.heatgeek.com/
We got a new worchester Bosch 4000 30kwh installed . But the ambiance in the flat feels now very humid. This never happened with our old boiler (we changed it because the tanks were taking too much space otherwise it worked like a dream for 15 years).
Your boiler is hugely over sized. Your flat o lying needs about 4kw so is a struggle to control. Range rate the boiler to its minimum output. It will help
Solar gain makes an enormous difference to the temperature inside my house. Cloud free nights can produce really low temperatures, so the air temperature input suggests turning up the heating, but the following sunny day creates an over heated house for a slow reacting heat source such as storage heaters or heat pumps.. Not sure how this solar gain can be taken into account, but it does need to be compensated for in my house and surely many others. Haven't seen any mention of this problem, but still researching. Any suggestions?
You suit load comp more. We have a whole article on this..
www.heatgeek.com/weather-compensation-or-load-compensation
Great video. We’re trying to get a bit more control of our heating and save some gas, our boiler is a Worcester greenstar 18ri.
Doesn't take modulating control. Any stat
Well presented mate, miles ahead of other heating engineer brethren.
Are there any Heat Geeks in Ireland?
We have a Ideal Logic Heat H24IE with a Hive thermostat
Heating set to 18.5 deg C in hall (which gets sitting room to 20.5 deg) to set to come on 07.00 - 08.30 and 16.30 - 23.00. the rest of the time its set to 15.5
I also have a airthings view plus and can see the sharp rises and falls you speak of on thats data history.
Just watched your video and love the message here. I am so new to this and want to get the most efficient set up that I can. So, I have a Baxi 600 being installed next Wednesday, with a google nest smart thermometer (3rd gen). My aim here is to have maximum efficiency, however I cannot purchase the temperature sensors for google nest so confused how the temperature in the house can be regulated properly via the bus control (I really don’t know what I’m talking about!)? Is this a good set up to go with?
Nest is open therm and so is the baxi which is great. It must wired correctly though. Bexi is great for a budget boiler 👍
Heat Geek thanks very much. The installer guy knows his stuff to be fair so I know I’m in good hands 👌
I thought you weren't going to mention Tado. Such a great and aesthetically pleasing controller. Great vid
Thank you sir!
Whats the problem with tado ?
Hi Pal,
Like others I'm about to invest in a better heating controller, thanks for this informative video.
We have a Baxi Platinum 28 ERP which I understand to be a modulating boiler, we live in a 3 bed semi with 6 standard rads with TRVs and a towel radiator.
What solution would you suggest that would achieve per room controls (we work from home) whilst maintaining efficiency.
I'm unsure if modulating control module or electronic TRVs or a combination of both would be best.
Cheers in advance!
Yet another really helpful video. Yesterday you pointed me in the direction of a video of yours that explained why I should not necessarily be turning off radiators in unused rooms. This got me also asking if I have a boiler that is able to be regulated.
Well the first evidence I had that this might be the case was that one night I accidentally left the heating on at a higher temperature and in the morning I noticed this because my gas usage in the middle of the night was not zero but also it started according to the app started off relatively high and gradually reduced the rate of usage until I spotted my mistake in the morning and I turned it off. I guessed this could be due to a regulating thermostat or it could be the boiler getting the flow temperature up and then using less gas to keep it there.
The next clue was when I thought I'd try and find the flow temperature setting on the boiler (A Remeha Calenta Ace 40c) and when I went to the menu according to the manual instead it gave a message "See RU" and I looked this up and it suggested that this was because I was connected to a regulating thermostat (I have a Honeywell Home, no idea what specific model but it is a black LCD display which is now beginning to fail so it cannot be read and so everything has to be done via the app).
Finally I dug out the installation manual and it has something called an R-Bus connector but according to the installation manual it will support R-Bus, OpenTherm, OpenTherm Smart Power, and on/off thermostats with the same two wire connection. I've also see that it has some other options.
Something they are warning about is that if you are using an OpenTherm thermostat then you cannot wire a frost thermostat in parallel on the same two wires. Your video discussed that your smart thermostat might have an exterior thermometer to help regulate demand, but the boiler also has provision for a separate exterior sensor. The boiler also has several other possible sensors, one appear to be for a temperature sensor on a hot water cylinder (we don't have one), then they have something called a BL (blocking input) and an RL which seems to be a releasing input.
Don't worry about front thermostat.. just have your 'off' setting at 12c.
Another excellent video, well done. Funny you should say that about Evohome... I found my own at home asking for high temperatures more often than I thought it should so I limited the flow temp to 50°c and it works a lot better.
Nice. I love that you don't just pick a product and shill why it's great. You stay concept rather than product. I am creating a DIY heating controller with multizone presence awareness. "Load balanced" and "Cyclic". I am battling "selfish heating" of zones. The living room might ask for heat and be given it, but the bedroom, very nearly at it's minimum sits unheated. I am aiming on intelligent "sympathetic" heating. If one zone demands heat, could any other zones use some anyway? The tricky part for me I have no way to trace "why" a demand for heat was raised, only that it was.
To go modulating, rather than cyclic, I just need a trust worthy gadget to hook up to my boiler.
The plan being to base the flow temp on the differential between the current and the target and pre-planning warmup based on ambient and differential.
No bloody cloud. Want my heating to work when the internet goes out due to an admin screw up that takes 10 days to fix.
Thanks Paul. What boiler do you have?
@@HeatGeek I believe it's a "worcester bosch greenstar 30i". There "are" some interfaces for EMS to microcontrollers, but the warnings about breaking your boiler stalled me. Considering a prebuilt product I seen, can't remember which one.
I'd love metrics on demand HW, rad flow temps/rates and control over flow temp or modulation level. Maybe if I don't poke around too much in EMS variables and I'll be safe?
ugh..bg music too loud
Sensocomfort controlling Vaillant dual system (Heatpump + existing boiler). Underfloor heating with 7 zones. What would be the best room thermostats?
Its a system boiler
Nice video, can you include some of the major stats used for UFH too... Heatmiser neo and salus quantum. Thanks...
very comprehensive video, love when real information transmittance is the the main goal rather than click hunting.
Join 'Heat Geeks Heating Help for Homeowners" on Facebook for bespoke advice on YOUR specific system.
Please note that tado has just re-released it's BUS control function on the wireless version! Only if you buy direct from them though, for now. Doesn't work with heat pumps yet.
Yeah I'm super pissed about this
It’s still possible if you get the extension kit.
@@davidmcgettigan wireless extension is still available. It doesn't modulate though.
Thats why i build my opentherm controller coupled with home assistant for automation :) not dependant on the "cloud"
Does that mean the TADO no longer modulates the boiler is new installs?
Very informative video and if i can suggest something, the music is a bit distracting. Thank you for thing the time and explain this stuff for us. I'm new to smart heating and it was helpful to see your video
Any recommendations for the vaillant eco tec pro?
With vailant we recommend any of their own controls such as the vrc700 or vrt350f
Hi,
I am currently in the process of buying a house with a Glow-Worm Micron 50FF (located in kitchen with side exit flue). It's a 1600 sq ft 5 bedroom house that's 20 years old and built over 3 floors (the loft was built as two bedrooms rather than being converted later). The heating system was also built with a Gledhill Boilermate to acompany the boiler. I'm hoping to ge the keys in the next few weeks but have been informed by the sellers that the boiler has tripped out a few times in the last couple of months so I've negotated a suplimentary £1500 discount because of this boiler issue.
Essentially that means I have £1,500 for a new boiler so can pick one and choose the right thermostat to compliment it but would also work with the boilermate. I had been thinking about Tado because they also have the radiator valves which means I could have more flexibility to set the temprature room by room. The two rooms in the loft will be our offices so will be using those rooms daily but will be a lot warmer than the ground floor where the thermostat would be. We have the Google Home ecosystem so would like something compatible with that (though it doesn't have to be Nest).
Prior to watching your video, I was thinking the Worchester Bosch Greenstar 30Ri but now need to start looking at bus controls work with which. What would you recomend in this scenario?
Hi there. First of all loose the boiler mate. It will force your new high efficiency condensing boiler to continuously work at high temperatures and use much more gas then necessary as it has to provide hot water . Terrible idea for modern boilers.
You just need a normal unvented cylinder or a combi STORAGR boiler like a voessmann 222. Note a combi storage boiler is nothing like a combi boiler. A normal combi boiler will not work in a house of your size.
I would advise a viessmann 200 boiler with unbented cylinder or a viessmann 222. The reason being is that if you are going to turn the system output down to just your offices the boiler needs to be able to turn right down to match that demand. The viessmann 200/222 is the only boiler capable of that.
More on that here..
heatgeek.com/what-is-boiler-modulation/
Tado worked with their old 'km bus' but im.unsire if it works with the new 'plus bus'.
Zoning down in thos way isn't always the best option anyway.. you can get more efficiency but using all the rads believe it or not.. or just up and down stairs .. more on that here
heatgeek.com/weather-compensation-or-load-compensation/
P.s. Worcester boilers are not exceptional in anyway.. nor are they bad. They are just ok..
@@HeatGeek Thanks for the really informative response. I will start looking into unvented cylinders and the Viessmann 200 and 222 and how they align (or not) with the Tado smart thermostats.
Out of curiosity, does the Viessmann 200 and 222 require an additional cylinder? From what I'm understanding, the 200 and 222 are an all in one system that doesnt require an additional cylinder? I'm just thinking about space and location as the current glow-worm boiler is a small one in the kitchen with the boilermate currently in a storage cupboard on the first floor. If the new boiler it didn't fit in the kitchen and doesn't need a cylinder then I suppose it could go in the storage cupboard instead.
@@ravijain1194 the 222 does not require a cylinder, its built in. The 200 does require a cylinder to heat. You have to call tado to see if it interfaces with the new viessmann 'plus bus' system.. it did work very well with the old 'km bus' system
This video is what I’ve been searching for, it’s surprising how little most of use know about thermostats and how heating works. I’ve been looking for informed advice for weeks. Can you please advise on a wireless thermostat I can use with an Intergas Kombi Kompakt (HRE 24/18 A 2017) my apartment has primarily water floor heating with one radiator in the bathroom.
Your expert advice would be very much appreciated.
hi there. any opentherm device, we like the nest. importantly though make sure its wired correctly or it will perform as on/off. thanks for your comment.
Had just replaced my 20 year old boiler for a Bosch Condense 2300 and i don't know whether to buy a smart thermostat or not. The house has no thermal insulation and the windows/doors are 40 year old wooden 'old type' but the guy who installed the boiler said it's not worth the money(the Bosch smart is almost half the boilers price) so i should get a 'dumb' on/off one. So just browsing videos to decide. Anyway helpful video, thanks.
Excellent video. The detail is next level, over my head. I would appreciate your recommendation for my heating system please 😊 - Horstmann Channel Plus H37XL with two HRT4-A thermostats (down and upstairs) the boiler is Potterton
Doesn't matter I'm afraid. Boilers too old
Excellent video as always. I have an Intergas 18OV boiler on a Y Plan in a solid walled end terrace. Currently no weather comp. Cheers!
To be honest with that set up your heating load is probably about 7kw which is what the boilers minimum output is anyway so you might be better off range rating it.. weve got a really cool method to test your real world heat loss and range rate your boiler!!! Check it out..
heatgeek.com/the-heat-geek-range-rating-method/
Heat Geek Brilliant! Thanks for the advice and keep up the great work!
Wow, you certainly live up to your name! Came here looking for info on best thermostat for a holiday let, and feel I got more than I bargained for! I’ve left much more informed though, thanks! 🙂
Thanks Yehcool! Much appreciated!
What a fantastic video! Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. I was on the verge of buying a smart heating system and whilst watching this video heard a voice saying "You know nothing John Snow!"
Time to check the most appropriate setup for my home, rather than the "best" system based on reviews.
Yes 100% mate. Great comment
As you suggested we comment with out boiler models, would you be so kind as to advise what system would be best for a Vaillant ecotech Pro 28 boiler? Would this support the modulating thermostats? I have 13 radiators in my home and it's a victorian mid terrace.
@@khayyamnasar yes absolutely! I would strongly suggest the vrc700 controller with weather compensation
@@HeatGeek Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!
Great video, thanks for all the info. You explained everything really well!
IMO I like the background music, but agree that it could be a bit quieter.
I think it would be really helpful to have a few more visuals, eg. a written list of all the benefits while youre saying them.
Thanks again, will definitely check out your website!
Thanks!! And thanks for the feedback. Lively name by the way.
Great video and great idea on engaging with asking people to comment, Bravo.
I have a Potterton Assure 36, 3 bed semi, 2 zone heating using horstmann dial thermostats. Wired back to a horstmann controller
Many thanks 😊. Pottering assure is open therm so I would probably suggest the nest for higher budget.. but be aware if not installed correctly it will not modulate the boiler. Lower budget honeywell t4. Even lower budget would be to keep the stat you have and get the weather compensator for the boiler and a turn on WC mode. If you fell me where you are I can suggest a decent engineer 😉.
Heat Geek I was thinking of using the T6 with Z-wave to connect to a smart home hub. Just need to look how it would work if I got the temp sensor for the boiler. I live in St. Helens in Merseyside 👍
@@rhysslater8127 t6 is a great stat.. i find all goneywell controls a little jumpy on the flow temperature though. The benefit of working with your HA might outweigh that though. There is no right or wrong really.
Except for on/off stats.. they are wrong
Thanks for the video explains a lot, My boiler is Baxi solo 12 he, 4 bed house around 10 yrs old boiler the same age. Currently have a hive but looking to change, I do also have tado trv’s in most rooms.
Doesn't accept bus control im afraid.. I would go tado to connect the trvs
I am looking for a suitable smart trv system. I've a Worcestor Bosch Greenstar 15i system boiler with an unvented santon 170L tank. it's a 4 story town house. thermostat is in lounge, currently hard wired honeywell DT90E with just Black and Brown connected. Ground floor kitchen is always cold compared to living room and top floor always warmest. I've been looking at Drayton, Tado and Worcester Bosch EasyControl. Currently favouring the Worcester Bosch as I'd hope they'd integrate the best, plus I want individual room control so each room is heated when necessary. Can't afford to TRV every radiator (kitchen has 2, hallway has 1) so planning one for each bedroom, one for kitchen, one for lounge. Currently all radiators have standard TRV.
what setting are your trvs on? smart trvs have their place but i like to fix organically first if pos
@@HeatGeek The ground floor is just always colder (kitchen, hallyway, downstairs toilet, front door). The kitchen has lots of glass (windows and french patio doors). The thermostat is on the first floor in the living room which is 5'c warmer i'd say. So the thermostat is in the wrong room. If it was a wireless, I'd just move it. Back patio doors are used as main exit to/from house. Front door is mostly only opened for deliveries.
The kitchen is some 5'c cooler than the living room I'd say, the house getting warmer the higher you go. Top floor is sometimes insufferably warm in summer. House is a 2012 with an EPC I think around 76 so very well insulated.
Just think having one thermostat in the house is a bit antiquated now and it means even less with a 4 story town house where you are more likely to get bigger temperature differentials.
I prefer the idea of any room in the house being able to call for heat. Rather than one room decide for the whole house :) It's all very well the TRV in the kitchen being on 5 if there's no hot water flowing to the radiator.
@@nickdjurovich believe me. I understand your set up very well. You can do things with the system you already have. With the living room thaty has the thermostst in, you need to fully close down that locksheild, then open it up a quarter turn. that will force the flow to the ground floor radiators rather than the living room getting up to temp quickly and turning off the whole system. Radiators on the upper floors should already be diverting flow to the ground floor if the trvs are set to 3/3.5.
Smart trvs cannot resolve the temperature stratification issue in town houses any more than a proper syetm balance and use of these techniques. I have done this on many modern town houses. If your going out to buy a system regardless I would suggest tado wires to the bus terminals. But that will not work better than a correct commisioning, it will just emulate correct commisioning.
@@HeatGeek I've locked down the return lockshield valve and opened a quarter turn and will see how it goes. However, with the kitchen cool and the living room staying warm, it would take the living room to cool down to switch on the CH, thereby, making using of the reducing living room flow and kitchen would warm up. But it's the kitchen that suffers the most heat loss (windows, opening doors etc). If the living room doesn't cool down, it'll stay the same. Cool air will stay down stairs and the warm air will stay in the living room, because it's selfish :D
@@nickdjurovich yeh your house will try to stratify. ground floor radiators are supposed to be sized larger to account for this when doing heat loss calculations. giving over flow to the kicthen should help with this, if your kitchen ever gets near target temp it will close the trv and divert excess heat to the living room. `the room with your stat in shoudl always be the last room to heat.
When I had my worcester boiler fitted 3 years ago I read a lot into ‘opentherm’ technology so was adamant I had the Bosch EasyControl thermostat fitted for the load comp ability. So glad I did. Everyone around me was having hives or nest fitted 👎👎
Nests are good. Just not on Worcester’s. Well done!
@HeatGeek So what IS good on a Worcester Greenstar 400 GR4700iW - Tado NO, Hive maybe, Worcester ok but pricey :-(
@@jabatecar I’ve got the Worcester EasyControl smart thermostat. You’ll have to check whether is compatible for yours though
What a great video to explain all the ins and outs of all the bus controls and how they relate to smart thermostats. Thank you.
Question:
I am currently just finishing the construction of my house and have an underfloor heating installed 100 squar m. property. No radiators.
What combi boiler / thermostat combo would you advise me to have an effiecent system? To take a full advantage of my underfloor heating?
I do have a 3rd gen Nest Thermostat from my previous apartemtn that I can use, but I don't have to use it if I can come up with a better combination of boiler/thermostat.
Is OpenTherm good enough for me just get a boiler that is OpenTherm competable or will have have much better results in getting boiler with it's own prepriatory bus / thermostat? If OpenThem is good enough then which boilr would you recomment for me to pair with ?
Thanks
I have the Greenstar 30 Cdi Combi, I live in a smallish 3 bed detatched built in the 1970s
This video could be a life saver as this issue is driving me crazy! Just got a new Worcester Greenstar 4000 30KW combi boiler. This was fitted with an ESI ESRTP4RF+ wireless thermostat. Temperatures can fluctuate up to 2 degrees oC above and below the target temperature and device is slow to react to room heat changes. I'm either freezing cold or boiling hot! Can this boiler use modulation and which thermostat would you recommend, please? (Sorry if you've already mentioned this model, but there are 100s of comments to search through!). Property wise, it's a 3 bedroom, terrace house, outside walls are more east / west than north / south. Thank you.
Great video and very informative, I might direct customers to this video, well done 👍
Wow.. a comment from terry Lambert of the combustion chamber!! High praise indeed thankyou!! 👍
I’ve just released a course detailing everything you need to know to become a heating genius! What’s more it’s been recognised by the UK government department BEIS which have offered to heavily subsidised the first 300 spaces!
courses.heatgeek.com/
Excellent video. Professional, informative, factual and understandable. Adam you sir are a Geniuse.
High praise from the grand master.
Has the student become the master?
@@HeatGeek tbo yes he has. I'm a bit jealous but very happy at the same time.
@@andrewmillwardwatford9410 🤣🤣👍
Great video, a little easier for me to understand!
I’m trying to get the most from my heat pump (Mitsubishi ecodan 14kw)! Its heating 4 bed property with UFH downstairs and rads upstairs. It’s zoned using 2 nest e thermostat and I have started to use the Eve TRV’s to help regulate each room a little better (fall back temp set to 18 degrees). I feel I may be going too far so any advice welcome.
Best to use the ecowas control.. this is the downside of mitsi hps.. crap controls imo
Glow Worm Energy 18s. Looks like I have to go with MiGo :(
Great video. Nice to watch someone who really seems to know what they are talking about.
I am looking at replacing our wireless thermostat at home and we have a Worcester Greenstar Ri system boiler which has modulating control so just need to decide on stats now 👍
We have same boiler! What did you go for in the end?
It all got too confusing so we’ve not done anything yet - just put on new TRVs and running the old Honeywell wireless stat still 🙄
In May 2018, my boiler was replaced with a Firebird oil-fired boiler (under a Government grant/scheme via Happy Energy). Then the issues began...
Within the first year, the heating unexpectedly went off late one evening and couldn't be turned back on.
The installer was called out, advised the pilot light had blown out and reset/relit the boiler.
The boiler continued to turn off/stop working sporadically. Each time, needing to be reset/relit.
The fault was eventually diagnosed as air/fumes blowing back into the boiler causing it to shut off (as a safety measure).
The vent was replaced with an ugly piece of long plastic tube (like a gutter pipe), which makes a horrendous noise.
The boiler is also extremely loud when it fires up and puffs out lots of white smoke. This was flagged to the installer at the time but ignored.
The boiler has continued to fire up, sporadically through the night, when the programmer/heating and hot water is turned off.
Because it is so loud and happens every 10 minutes or so, it disturbs me from my sleep/keeps me awake.
Eventually, after many months of this, the boiler again stopped working and resetting it couldn't turn it back on.
An independent heating engineer was called out and diagnosed a fault with the pump (the boiler is a little over 2 years old).
Upon replacement, all seemed to be well again... for a short while...
The boiler is now firing up day and night when the programmer (heating and hot water) is off.
The house is constantly being heated and the hot water is scalding. Radiators have to be turned off at their individual valves to stop the heat. Turning down the thermostat on the water tank has done nothing to prevent the water from being scalding hot.
Note, since 2017 the following has been replaced with new:
- Drayton Motorised Two-Port Valve (x 2)
- Drayton Programmer (Heating and Hot Water)
To make matters worse, the main part of the house is heated via a (wet) underfloor system and the adjoining annexe is heated via thermostatically controlled radiators. Two of which are leaking and causing the system to require constant airing.
Ideally, the two areas (main house and annexe) need to be controlled independently of one another, but I am totally confused as to which (smart) thermostat/programmer would be suitable - could you advise?
S Dudley get yourself EPH r27 2 channe! wireless programmer with room stat and cylinder stat.Easy to install and extremely reliable.
The Drayton controls have a history of sending random signals causing heating to come on in the middle of the night.
What happens with your central heating if the internet goes down for several days? Does it mean that your boiler cannot be monitored and.... what?
None of what I am talking about has anything to donwoth Internet. Internet control is a gimmik
What is the best Modular Thermostat that works with Worcester Bosch Greenstar 32CDi Compact Combi Gas Boiler? Looking for something that has 3 items (Internet, Valves for Radiators to control over wifi, Homekit)
Worecser own controls.. like wave
Which smart stat to look at for ageing Ideal Icos HE 24? Instructions say it modulates but nothing re bus language. Great series btw.
It does not accept intelligent control.
Okay thanks for the reply
This is so so helpful - many thanks! But I'm still unsure on the best way to control heating in our 4 bed house with largely open plan downstairs. 2012 Baxi Megaflo 2 Compact 32 System boiler. WFH so at least one room used most of the time. Need to be easy to use, better at keeping us comfortable and help us save energy too. What would you recommend? Tado? Nest? Drayton Wiser? Something else? Will SRVs help or hinder? Really appreciate all your efforts to educate and improve home heating.
Thanks for another great video. We love our tado system easy to install and great at keeping our different zones how we like it and saved us money on gas bill but had heating on a lot more than the year before
Try setting the rooms to more similar temperatures. Watch our video called 'should I zone my boiler'
Thanks for an amazing informative video. I a Baxi Duo-Tec combi 28 HE A boiler. Which smart thermostat controller do you recommend ?
non modulating boiler sorry
I find this subject both fascinating and overwhelming.
I have a 4 year old Worcester Bosch CDI gas combi, with a 3rd Gen Nest.
I live in SE london/kent in a 3 bed semi detached 1930s solid wall construction. Its an art deco house with completely flat roofs which i have insulated with 100mm PIR between the joists, 25mm below the joists (i.e cold roof).
I generally find my house cold and uncomfortable in the winter, i spend most of it wearing a oodie which i love,its partly opened planned, in that there are no doors separating 2 staircases, kitchen, front door and door to enter roof terrace so im not sure how your videos will help with that as even when on it takes a long time to reach temp, once off the temp drops very quickly so whilst i want to he more efficient it could mean the house is so cold that any heating would be wasted as we wouldn’t feel the effects, unless long, slow heating work for us and is a game changer.
But watching ur vids i have found i can comfortably knock the hot water temp down to number 2 prob could get it lower with more experimenting. So thanks for that.
Any recommendations on weather compensation is very much appreciated.
Use wb own wc! 🙏 call them up
Or call a heat geek
house is empty between 7:30 and 6pm 3 days a week
Hi, mine is Ideal Logic Heat 15, which thermostat is suitable? Nest or Hive…. Many thanks and keep producing this kind of informative video👍
Hi,
I've just got a heating enginner to install a Viessmann 100W-35 combi boiler with Nest 3rd Gen thermostat. I can see that the Viessmann Combi can accept OpenTherm output with an additional wire connected to the Nest hub next to the boiler but the engineer hasn't done this. I asked him how he set it up and he told me it's set up as an Optimum Start Control smart stat. From what I can tell, getting the extra wire and going down the Opentherm route would be the better option to allow for the modulation? I was wondering if you could confirm this?
you are correct
@@HeatGeek Legend
I have a larger victorian property and think individual zones is the way to go, so far my research leads to the Genius Hub system, but see little about it, have you reviewed or seen this system? (for reference i use a office room most days, living room most evenings, weekend use another room in day and another room at night..so I’m wasting a lot I feel!)
Depends on the boiler too. What boiler do you have? Genius is great tbh
Loving the new set Adam! Your production value is really taking off!
Cheers Harry!
Hi
I've watched a fair few of your videos which are very informative and I still am not sure whether or not you are advocating 24 hr heating. Having heat on while you are in bed or out is a head wrecker for someone who lived without Central heating for all of their childhood and early adult life which still constitutes a large proportion of the population of the UK and Ireland where I abode. Central heating frost Protection is a good clever idea if somebody dies of hypothermia induring the night under a warm duvet heated by themselves FREE of charge they were going to die anyway I think. Having a warm home 24 hrs a day from here into the foreseeable future is a luxury most people cannot afford. Also have we now start using outdoor temperature controls to tell us whether we should go out for a walk or should we just put on a coat and scarf I remain convinced that for a working person using heat when you get home and or before you get up will save more then round the clock in the average house. For the poor unfortunate people who spend more time at home I would love to see you make a video addressing what they can do to save money even if you have to take your engineers hat off to do so. As a 58 year old gas fitter I really find your videos very educational and intelligent God bless
We have a specific video for heating on all the time or not. Because there's no panacea, it depends. Having heating 'on' doesn't mean your house is targeting a full 21c.. it could be targeting 18 and have cooler rads.. this is all I the video
Just watched that video. Alas the question still remains unanswered.
A documentary about the coldest place on earth in siberia average temperature-50C featured the mayor and his wife She can't get used to the cold because the town she grew up in has an average temperature 30C hotter. Such I think will be the difference induring the winter ahead between one person's house and anothers
@@neilcorcoran8233 sorry I'm slightly confused. Is your question should the heating be left on constantly or not?
@@HeatGeek sorry for the confusion what I'm trying to get at is practical advise to give people who live in leaky houses the best way short term to saveon their energy bills
@@neilcorcoran8233 ah, I would probably advise our 11 tips to reduce energy bills video.
We currently have a Nest with OpenTherm setup and working - Our thermostat is in the living room and we have to set temp at 22+ to get a comfortable temp yet other rooms are then cold. I am considering moving to alternative system similar to the Tado to make use of the radiator thermostats etc.
I would be incredibly surprised if you need anything more than a simple 'system balance'.
More can be read here when the site is up and working heatgeek.com/category/knowledge/balancing/
If you are still experiencing issues once the system is balanced i would then look at micro zoning with taxi etc. Unlikely to an issue though in my experience.
Here
heatgeek.com/balancing-heating-systems-the-ultimate-guide/
We have exactly the same here! In my house not all rooms are insulated the same. Some rooms get really cold whilst the nest is keeping the living room warm. I'll be moving to tado in the next few days. I already ordered the set and I'm looking forward to see how much of a difference it is!
@@Een_Thijs ide strongly suggest balancing first. Radiators should be sized for the heatloss of the room raking in to account for insulation.. and even of they aren't you can still get around this by balancing extra flow to less insulated rooms and less flow to more insulated rooms..
@@HeatGeek hi, we already tried that. It got it good enough in most of the rooms of the house, but not quite to a comfortable level. We really like the nest but it's just not the right choice for our needs. In my old house it was perfectly fine. The differences between the rooms in insulation and size of radiator in my new house is just to much out of balance.
I have an ideal vogue max 40. Underfloor heating to the ground floor (5 zones) radiators on the 1st floor (1 zone) what’s the best smart thermostat to use please
Nest
thanks very informative love the information, my boiler is Worchester greenstar 27ri compact erp
comfort rf1 or rf2 on these.
4 bed semi. Couple with one child, we both work from home. Mostly open plan downstairs. Worcester Greenstar 30CDI Combi. Has old fashioned timer on boiler face. No thermostat in house at all. Please advise what I should get installed. The large living room does get hotter than everywhere else and sooner than faster than everywhere else.
First thing you need to do is balance your system. You can see how on heatgeek.com.
Then a Worcester wave will suit you well
I'm going full electric with my heating and wonder if you know which Wi-Fi thermostat would works with Terma MOA Blue electric elements (or similar) which use the official Bluetooth tech? Terma don't seem to recommend any although I have not asked them directly.
Any will work it just needs to go via a contactor.
Okay this video was a couple of years ago but hopefully the offer to recommend still stands. I inherited when i moved into a 50-year-old house an open-vented heating system with a Worcester Bosh GreenStar i18R boiler and HIVE controller. Not a great combination but I've removed the old last century copper cylinder and converted the system to unvented with off peak electrically heated SunAmp (PCM) Heatstore for domestic hot water so I can lower my flow temp without compromise. However, the Boiler is now 9 or 10 years old so although I'd like to dump-the-gas I can't financially having installed Solar PV and Battery storage. Question is what is the most cost-effective, Eco-friendly way to modify/control of the i18R Boiler and is is compatible with a more efficient modulating control strategy?
we have a Logic combi c30 and a Simans wireles room stat with TRVs on most Radiators
Thank you for such an informative video. I'm about to have my old, broken boiler changed to a Worcester 4000 30kw in my Victorian semi ( 2 bedroom, 1 bathroom), before either selling the property as a renovation project, or having it renovated it and then selling it. The plumber who seems like the likely choice for the job has quoted for the inclusion of an ESI wireless controller (model not specified). I don't know if this is a modulating controller. My quick research appears to show that the boiler is modulating, though I couldn't see what language it uses. I very much like what you have said regarding advanced weather compensating controllers, though I am a bit tight on budget. Could you advise as to whether I should go with the ESI controller or possibly recommend any other control systems that might best suit?
I’ve just bought my first house house, (3 bedroom detached) this video is so helpful I’ve never had to look after a boiler before so I haven’t got a clue the do’s and dont’s. My boiler looks pretty decent it’s a Worcester GREENSTAR 30Si Combi. I want to up grade the thermostat because I hate it and can’t set the timer!! Which one would you recommend? Thanks I appreciate the videos😎
Worcester wave or comfort 2
@@HeatGeek Hi I have the same boiler and thought to use a thermostat from Nest. Which will be better Nest or Wave and why? Thanks
@@piotrekyt90 nest does not speak ems bus (Worcesters bus language) so will not modulate the boiler. Wave does so use a wave.
You just know when the bills go up next money this channel will have over 1 million subscribers
I wish!
I have a Telford Stainless Products Tempest hot water cylinder with a Honeywell programmer, its in a communal heating building. What smart thermo should I get and also is this cylinder modulate like you said? Thanks
sorry it doesnt modulate
We've a "BRAEMAR TQM5X30" in a 3 bedroom single story house and i've noticed it does cycle a fair bit, only recently installed, and it's a little disappointing to be honest. Shortly to have our first baby and the default thermostat seems to only have the ability to set a schedule or be controlled manually.. don't want to have to rely on a baby monitor to send me alerts at 3am to go turn on the heating...does seem in 2020 pretty antiquated compared to these modulated thermostats you're talking about. Would love to know what our options are for something/anything a LOT smarter! Cheers :)
You have a pretty outdated heater tbh. It both doesn't condense and also won't accept bus controls. If you aren't in the UK it will be difficult to advise. Sorry
@@HeatGeek Well..damn... that is, unfortunate. We were recommended against the "6-star" ducted gas heaters due to their (apparent) need for servicing so frequently - which would offset any savings made from the more efficient model. Thanks all the same for the reply, appreciate it (From Australia), i guess we'll go down the route of trying to improve the efficiency of the building.
Great video.
I have a valiant 430 weather compensator on my boiler. I’m thinking of adding the smart tado thermostatic radiator valves to my 10 radiators in the house (4 bed 2 bathrooms). Is this a good idea? I don’t even have a thermostat in the house and just let the boiler do it’s thing but want to increase efficiency by not having the whole house heated to the same amount when the boiler is on.
Thanks kindly. M
This is a contentious issue. my guess is that your bills could actually go up if you add them. I would only like you to try it to report the findings but i think you already have a pretty efficint system. Does the property over or under heat at all or is it comfortable?
I do like the V-SMART and MI-GO.
I have a Porterton Promax HE Plus boiler; a Heatrae Stadia Megaflow High Effieciency Cylinder;
a Drayton controller with Drayton Radiator valves. I am considering a Tado thermostat and valve system.
I live in a top floor apartment with very large bedroom on north side and lounge south side. Am I making a reasoned choice or would you suggest alternative
Hi there. good question. In your situaion i think Keeping rooms different temperatures will save minimal gas if any, it could even use more gas! I would use tado but without the trv heads.
more here heatgeek.com/weather-compensation-or-load-compensation/
the bigger question is what's the extra cost for these smarter systems?
Because as much as i want a better controller/"smart" controller, im not interested in a month/yearly/additional reoccurring fee to use the system.
Literally nothing. It's a compatibility thing. Nothing else.
We have a remeha avanta plus and live in 1980s 3bed detached house. Are you able to recommend which smart heating product to go for? Thank you
Nest
Hi, this is a great video - really useful breakdown! We have a Vaillent Eco tec Pro 24 and live in a 3 bed semi detached with one bathroom. Would be really great to know which thermostat you think would be best for our property
Any of vailants own offerings are perfect as they will all use their own bus control. i.e. the vrc 700. If you call valiant on 0345 602 0262 and ask them which Vailnt controls will work they will give you a full list> or if you get a specific local valiant guru they can help select from the choices, let me know your area and ill give you the best engineer.
I would just like to say that its actually the fan which modulates not the gas valve per se. Most modern condensing appliances are fitted with a gas/air ratio valve and a zero governor operating under negative pressure, the faster the fan the more the governor gets lifted from the valve seating etc
While I personally love the idea of open-therm technology I am not entirely convinced. It appears to me to be something similar to the arguments for a slow cooker where if it operates at 100 watts for ten hours it uses the same energy as an appliance that uses a kilowatt for one hour, there being no difference in the energy consumed. I am prepared to stand corrected though because I do understand that open-therm will ramp the fan down when it think it is approaching the desired parameters rather than over shooting it as with a simply on/off room stat. I have often wondered if the same or better can be achieved by simply over sizing radiators and then running your appliance on a fairly low setting? either way the video was awesome I just wish there was more peer reviewed data on the benefits of open-therm with studies conducted.
Hi bud.
Sometimes correct sometimes not. For example the higher end vailants have a mass flow sensor to which independently measures air. The viessmann 200 has a mass flow sensor AND and lambda sensor to further define the mix and so adjusts the ratio. This is how they automatically adjust to lpg or synthetic mixes without any changeover kit. If you have to adjust the has valve in service it will generally be zero governor in the way you described.
You are correct about what you are saying about not making a difference on output although your numbers where wrong. How ever your missing condensing efficiency when modulated down.. yes this can be achieved by larger rads but its not 'condensing or not condensing' the lower you go the MORE it condenses. So your better still with larger rads AND open therm.
The other thing this doesn't account for is wear and tear on the boiler and system as open therm reduces cycking... qnd of course comfort.. all small gains in reality but all add up to a no brained imo..
Thanks for your comment! Happy to be corrected if you see any mistakes! 😁
@@HeatGeek Its very interesting indeed. I had no idea about Viessman or Vaillant. I cant see why my numbers are wrong though, 100 watts x 10 hours = 1000watts or 1Kw, looks solid to me man, but I am not physicist.
I am not sure I understand what you are saying about condensing and efficient but that's my problem and I will need to think about it more deeply. It seems that the lower the running temp the more the appliance will condense therefore the more efficiency we get. I thought it would be the opposite, the higher the temp the more condensing we get.
Have you done a video on pipe sizes and how they affect the efficiency or otherwise of a heating system? It appears to me that the trend is for plastic pipes and larger ones at that i.e. usually 22mm flow and return reducing down and feeding 15mm radiator vales. This appears to me to be counter productive because we have a much larger column of water to move around than on say 8mm copper pipe fed from a manifold and thus the system will take longer to heat up and longer to cool down? Perhaps plastic is better because of thermal insulating properties, I dunno.
Anyway thanks for taking the time, videos are awesome, kind regards robbie.
@@MSKChess My mistake I thought you said all day not 10 hours. Your numbers are correct.
Regarding condening efficiency, you are better at lower output and ther-for temperature over a longer time. As per your example if we squeeze 1000watts in an hour at high temp is won't comdense. Instead 100 watts over 10 hours will be lower temp and extract more latent heat.
More on condsening heatgeek.com/condensing-theory-how-do-condensing-boilers-add-efficiency-latent-heat-extraction/
heatgeek.com/condensing-theory-how-do-condensing-boilers-add-efficiency-latent-heat-extraction/
@@MSKChess regarding pipe size this would make minimal difference imo as the heat still ends up in the property where required and can be factored in with intelligent stop.
Qlso less of an issue for wc systems.
@@HeatGeek Its awesome, I will study and think deeply upon the principles, thank you so much.
This video saved me from buying a Hive thermostat for a Vaillant... I want a modulating thermostat instead
I looked into Weather Comp for my Vaillant in a new build and unfortunately found out they have their own proprietary system.
Whereas other manufacturers are compatible with sensors which cost about £30, for Vaillant you’re looking at £200+ and that’s before you pay for installation. Given that my annual gas bill is £250 I very much doubt I’d ever see my investment again.
Brilliant videos, I have a five-year-old viessmann system boiler I am looking to improve my boiler efficiency I was thing along the lines of either open therm or a weather temperature compensation sensor fitted outdoors. With a digital room thermostat. My central heating set up is a viessmann w-100 system boiler fitted in 2016 with two flow valves fitted I have an immersion tank that's fed from the solar panels, do digital t room thermostats control the heat better from the boiler at a constant level to help the boiler work less harmful. any ideas from you would be most helpful.
A weather compensator is a _feed forward_ controller, _not a feedback._ It anticipates the coming heat gain or heat loss of the building.
Like it!
Hi, Any chance of you doing the comparison video you mentioned for the various controls available in the UK, that would be great in your geeky way. Hope you take that as a compliment 😜. Cheers.
Yes but it will be a while I'm afraid
Great video! So glad I found this before buying a smart thermostat. Any recommendations for a Viessman w100?
Nest specifically wired with opentherm. Use a heat geekmas they understand how to do this
Thanks so much for the recommendation! Out of curiosity, what would be the best non Google option?
I have a baxi modulating combi with basic weather comp clipped to the flue duct outside, would a tado stat connected via opentherm increase efficiency or would it confuse things with 2 devices teliing the gas valve different things? Only have an on/off - boiler plus stat at the moment. im in a 3 bed mid terraced victorian house with 6 radiators and 300mm loft insulation, suspended uninsulated floors... Thanks 👍👍
Use a nest
Bear in mind if you are watching in 2022 Tado no longer use opentherm on UK devices, I believe they are looking at reintroducing the feature, or you can buy a European spec device. I'm currently weighing up a Tado Vs Hive
Great post. Heating you home is more complicated that I fist thought. I currently have a old system boiler using a Drayton wiser home hub with automatic TRV radiator valves. Can these be integrated into a ASHP system or would you just scrap them.
Vailent EcoTEC Plus 630 and I am looking to get the Hive Active Multi-zone with Hub, I have a sparkie who has fitted a Google Best but says they are all pretty much the same. Can you help?
definitely advise against hive. It's a unintelligent 'on/off' control. I advise Valiants own multizone controller with vrc700
@@ChapmanPlumbing thanks for the info, will this still work via app and alexa? Also does this control hot water and heating? Thank you. Would this be the one I need? Vaillant VRC 700/2 Thermostat with VRC 693 Weather Compensation module £79
@@andrewwindsor3408 I'm not sure sorry- 08700106077- call valiant technical would be best?
Hoping you can help. Came across your video when researching smart stats. Very informative except I have no idea what would work with our boiler. We have an Ideal Independent Combi 30 which I believe is around 3 or 4 years old. We have a 3 bed terraced house but one bedroom is not used as often as it is my step son's room and he stays every other weekend. Can you recommend a couple of options for us that might work? I feel like we are always either freezing cold or boiling hot in winter 🙈
Thank you Heat Geek for another great video explaining thinks in the language most can understand. With regards to your offer of matching stats to boilers I except thank you. I have a Viessmann 050-w running on weather comp and after much disappoint and expense I now realise the controls in the Viessmann app are inefficient as it does not allow set back timer scheduling or geofencing, in fact as advertised it does not do what its says on the tin. So I'm looking for a wireless controller to manage the modulation and timer schedules and maybe but not totally essential geofencing. Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.