Thanks for the video. I am dealing with Bermudagrass mites here in Central TX. I applied Abamectin mixed with Bifenthrin and MSO (following the UF study recommendations) in late June and saw some stress response from the Tifway 419. Was going to follow up with another application after 10-14 days to break the mites' growth cycle BUT after seeing some browning, I think I will hold off on applying it again until early spring next season.
The Bifenthrin should be around for 30 days. It has a long residual at least for most surface feeders. Bifenthrin/Talstar was my "go to" for cutworms on putting greens this time of year.
Very nice stuff yet again! Really great info. Wanted to ask about summer patch vs brown patch on cool season grass (KBG). Is there no mycelia with summer patch? I've got one or the other I believe. Noticed very fast spreading after mowing/traffic, was not always circular and killed the crowns/roots very quickly as they pull up with the slightest tug and eventually looks like next to your road here in this video where there were no more roots. Soluble nitrogen (AMS) makes it worse. Not leaning towards drought stress as its had plenty of water and grass is actually growing and full bladed in alot of areas. Worse in areas of high sun/heat or traffic. The areas of shade or high water are MUCH better looking. Leaf tips get brown first then needle at the tip but tips are not twisted or hooked. Not seeing too many leaf spots more tip yellowing, some orange then needling and dying quickly from there. Been mowing at 4 inchs all year, bagging this summer after it spread and using curative rates of Daconil with Propicinazole or Daconil with Azoxy. Axoxy seems to be a bit more effective but not curing. Daconil seems to reduce the spead after mowing. Reduce not stopping it. Soil test was very good however PH was at 7.8 so have veen using elem sulfur and balanced PH spray apps since fall last year. Can't use AMS or it will spead more. Already made that mistake once late May when this showed up. I hate fungus lol but learing alot from you. Fungus is the bane of my yard.
Summer patch and brown patch symptoms are very similar. Azoxy is the best fungicide you have for home lawns on either. It's why I don't sweat the diagnosis so much because the same fungicide treats either. You are looking for the red/pink/circular patches with either. Not much mycelia. Often with brown patch you get the "frog eye" where there is a ring of green turf in the outer parts of where the fungus is attacking the turf. If you are having problems controlling it check your rates. You may be going out at the preventative rate depending on the fungicide you use. If you have active fungus often you will have to increase the rate. Just check the label for that. Also with azoxy and propicanazole make sure your spray volumes are at least 1 gal/1000. If you are using less than that and mowing at 4 inches you may not be getting it far enough down on the leaf blade to get into the plant. Both of those fungicides only move through the plant via the xylem (move upward only). So you have to get it near the bottom of the leafblade. Some golf course superintendents run one rotation of the sprinklers when putting those fungicides out for that reason.
Hi, I cut and grinded the stump for my tree near the curb about 3 years ago in my front lawn. I noticed last year my tall fescue had fungus. I’ve applied fungus applications but in the one area where the tree was it’s kinda yellow whereas the other areas are green. This has happened last year and again this year as well. Should I dig up that area and replace the sod?
If it is circular with very green turf and mushrooms near the edge likely it's fairy ring. That often happens with decaying organic matter like a stump or a log under the soil surface. Aerate if you can, if you can get gasses from the decaying organic matter. Topdressing heavenly with sand may help. Heavy clay soils will suppress the gasses coming from the stump and create a fairy ring. More on it from NC State. www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/fairy-ring-in-turf/
It's hard to see and why I encourage people to go out and watch how the water behaves/flows. Very subtle changes to elevation can make a difference in surface flow concentrations. When it rains there is a high concentration of water (going over a very poor asphalt job) that flows over a long run of asphalt. It heats up as it goes over the asphalt and concentrates in that area. Makes a hot puddle of water and cooks the grass. Actually went out there during a recent storm and I was surprised how hot the water was. The other property and even above the "puddle area" where the dead grass is. . There is not the concentration of flow so the water does not form a hot puddle sits there and cooks the grass. The volume of water is not high enough to maintain the temperature that a high concentration of water does.
Bermudagrass mite article I talked about. gcmonline.com/course/environment/news/bermudagrass-mite
This is very informative! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the video. I am dealing with Bermudagrass mites here in Central TX. I applied Abamectin mixed with Bifenthrin and MSO (following the UF study recommendations) in late June and saw some stress response from the Tifway 419. Was going to follow up with another application after 10-14 days to break the mites' growth cycle BUT after seeing some browning, I think I will hold off on applying it again until early spring next season.
The Bifenthrin should be around for 30 days. It has a long residual at least for most surface feeders. Bifenthrin/Talstar was my "go to" for cutworms on putting greens this time of year.
Awesome video Greg, thanks for the information, great channel by the way!
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it. Tell your friends:) and social media. :).
Very nice stuff yet again! Really great info.
Wanted to ask about summer patch vs brown patch on cool season grass (KBG). Is there no mycelia with summer patch? I've got one or the other I believe. Noticed very fast spreading after mowing/traffic, was not always circular and killed the crowns/roots very quickly as they pull up with the slightest tug and eventually looks like next to your road here in this video where there were no more roots. Soluble nitrogen (AMS) makes it worse. Not leaning towards drought stress as its had plenty of water and grass is actually growing and full bladed in alot of areas. Worse in areas of high sun/heat or traffic. The areas of shade or high water are MUCH better looking. Leaf tips get brown first then needle at the tip but tips are not twisted or hooked. Not seeing too many leaf spots more tip yellowing, some orange then needling and dying quickly from there. Been mowing at 4 inchs all year, bagging this summer after it spread and using curative rates of Daconil with Propicinazole or Daconil with Azoxy. Axoxy seems to be a bit more effective but not curing. Daconil seems to reduce the spead after mowing. Reduce not stopping it.
Soil test was very good however PH was at 7.8 so have veen using elem sulfur and balanced PH spray apps since fall last year. Can't use AMS or it will spead more. Already made that mistake once late May when this showed up.
I hate fungus lol but learing alot from you. Fungus is the bane of my yard.
Summer patch and brown patch symptoms are very similar. Azoxy is the best fungicide you have for home lawns on either. It's why I don't sweat the diagnosis so much because the same fungicide treats either. You are looking for the red/pink/circular patches with either. Not much mycelia. Often with brown patch you get the "frog eye" where there is a ring of green turf in the outer parts of where the fungus is attacking the turf. If you are having problems controlling it check your rates. You may be going out at the preventative rate depending on the fungicide you use. If you have active fungus often you will have to increase the rate. Just check the label for that. Also with azoxy and propicanazole make sure your spray volumes are at least 1 gal/1000. If you are using less than that and mowing at 4 inches you may not be getting it far enough down on the leaf blade to get into the plant. Both of those fungicides only move through the plant via the xylem (move upward only). So you have to get it near the bottom of the leafblade. Some golf course superintendents run one rotation of the sprinklers when putting those fungicides out for that reason.
@@GregPhillips.22 Thanks Greg!!!
Hi, I cut and grinded the stump for my tree near the curb about 3 years ago in my front lawn. I noticed last year my tall fescue had fungus. I’ve applied fungus applications but in the one area where the tree was it’s kinda yellow whereas the other areas are green. This has happened last year and again this year as well. Should I dig up that area and replace the sod?
If it is circular with very green turf and mushrooms near the edge likely it's fairy ring. That often happens with decaying organic matter like a stump or a log under the soil surface. Aerate if you can, if you can get gasses from the decaying organic matter. Topdressing heavenly with sand may help. Heavy clay soils will suppress the gasses coming from the stump and create a fairy ring. More on it from NC State. www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/fairy-ring-in-turf/
At 9:42 you say it is the asphalt cooking the grass. But the property behind you and the property down the road has no issue!
It's hard to see and why I encourage people to go out and watch how the water behaves/flows. Very subtle changes to elevation can make a difference in surface flow concentrations. When it rains there is a high concentration of water (going over a very poor asphalt job) that flows over a long run of asphalt. It heats up as it goes over the asphalt and concentrates in that area. Makes a hot puddle of water and cooks the grass. Actually went out there during a recent storm and I was surprised how hot the water was. The other property and even above the "puddle area" where the dead grass is. . There is not the concentration of flow so the water does not form a hot puddle sits there and cooks the grass. The volume of water is not high enough to maintain the temperature that a high concentration of water does.