How To Remove Electronic Components - PART 2 / Soldering Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 9 лис 2022
- How to remove Electronic Components - Part 2 , is a clear soldering tutorial showing more neat common + uncommon methods to remove components from your PCB 's.
Featuring such components as large through hole Transformers , BGA'S + Surface mount regulators , see how you can put more of these great removal methods into action .
As an extra feature I have included a hot air gun vs 2 Soldering iron video showing the certain benefits of different removal options when reworking.
If you enjoy the video and find it of use please consider subscribing so as to not miss out on any future soldering postings on my channel.
Thank you for your time and good luck with all of your soldering projects.
Mr SolderFix
#soldering #pcbrepair #pcbrework - Наука та технологія
Been soldering for over 50 years and amazed how much I learned watching your videos. Great job
Hi , thank you for your comment, and for watching the videos , very much appreciated. If the videos can help a few people then that's great. We can all learn from each other . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Do a day course for people to learn how to remove any componants and you will see people will join... EVEN IF YOU get two people a week it is still two people in time the numbers will increase as your course gets popular...
I learn more from your videos than from any other source..👌
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated. I'm glad you have enjoyed the videos and found them useful , that's great to hear. I will always post more when I get some spare time. Thanks again , take care 👍
By far the best video I even seen about de soldering. Looks almost magical. Thanks
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I've posted a few desoldering videos now , hopefully they can help a few people . The more methods we can all see the better . Thanks again , take care 👍
Your videos are absolutely wonderful and so beneficial. Thank you very, very much for creating and posting.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . If they help a few people out then that's great . I will always post more when I get any spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Another nice video. I have a trick that I use which is similar to how you removed the first component at timestamp 1:00. Instead of using a solder wick to remove the solder after you lift the tabs, I use very thin pieces of stainless steel which I first place behind the tabs, then as I heat them one at a time, I slide the stainless shim under the tabs. Solder will not stick to stainless. Slowly, and very carefully, I continue to insert the stainless shim from tab to tab and when you reach the last tab, they are all desoldered. I've used that method with chips that have tabs on all four sides just doing one side at a time. Whether it's three tabs or 100 tabs. Works the same.
Try that method yourself and then show it to everyone in your next "How to remove electronic components" video. Keep up the great work you do. I'm sure hundreds, even thousands, of viewers have benefitted from your videos.
Hi , thank you for your comment and support of my channel, really appreciated.
It's always nice to hear of other methods that people use in their soldering work , hopefully the more methods we can get out there the more options people can choose from to suit their soldering needs. Thanks again , take care 👍
The mid-episode graphics remind me of the 80's BBC Hitch-Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy graphics...you have everything but "Don't Panic"!
Excellent vids with some great techniques! Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your comment. I'm glad you enjoy the videos, hopefully they can help a few people out. Thanks again , take care 👍
Your videos are a lifesaver! I'd tried using an old Pace hot air rework station I bought recently, but your soldering iron techniques are working much much better for me. Thank you for sharing your skills in such a clear and easy to follow way.
Hi , thank you for your comment, I'm glad the videos have been of good use to you. If I can help a few people out then it makes it all worthwhile. I'll keep posting when I get some more spare time . Thanks again, take care 👍
Always learn something new,thanks for sharing, it's invaluable knowledge 👍
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. If I can help a few people out then I'm happy , take care 👍
Breath taking....
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍
Very intuitive.. actually i had 0 soldering experience when i was trying to do something like this and whats more funny i was thinking it was an amateur method and probably the pros outhere will laugh at this..but hey its you here with a whole youtube channel only for that and very well appriciated as i see from the comments.. nice job mike..
Hi , thank you for your comment . I have a mixture on my channel , some highly difficult , more skilful methods on soldering and some methods that can really aid the hobbyist solderer who hasn't all the expensive gear that you may need . That's why if I can I like to show these alternative methods as I feel that's so important as well . Hopefully this channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again 👍
Would it not be easier to send it off to be done properly? 🤭 Well done! Some of the old techniques are the best. They’ve also been lost in our modern word of rework repairs where the brain has almost become dysfunctional. Nicely presented and demonstrated here. I would describe as very clean, safe and quick. 👍 from me. Happy days. 👌✌️🇬🇧
Sure, if you're sending it off to Mr. Solderfix :^)
Thank You! Appreciate your work...
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel, very much appreciated 👍
More great information thanks for sharing
Hi , no problem , hopefully the video can be of use to people . Thanks for your support , take care 👍
Thank you for the great video.
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel, very much appreciated 👍
This is a great video. well done. I have been in electronics repair for nearly 50 years, I always like to learn new techniques, I would never have thought of the methods you use to remove multi pin devices, I usually use my trusty vacuum desolder station but your method does save ruining the tracks, through hole ferrel and pads
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, very much appreciated.
If these methods can help a few people out then that's great. Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
There are T12 tips shaped as a wide spatula, comes in handy for some of these jobs.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I've got quite a few different iron tips for the one I use mainly ( Weller TCP S ) , you're definitely right , most half decent irons will give you a good choice of differing tips . Thanks again , take care 👍
Brilliant techniques, some new ideas for the future for me, thanks again
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you found the video useful , hopefully it can help a few people out 👍
Very good tips. I'm surprised you don't mention in either of your videos the addition of classic lead-tin solder which melts at a much lower temperature than the horrible lead-free mix currently used in the industry. This considerably facilitates desoldering and above all, when setting up new components, gives much better quality solder joints.
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've always been reluctant to mention to people to use leaded solder as although I 100 % agree with you about ease of use for rework some people frown upon it's use due to harmful fumes etc . So whether I mention it or not I will always be wrong in some people's eyes. Thanks again for taking the time to comment 👍
Very Nice & interesting job ....Thanks you sir...
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
Thanks I’m definitely learning.
Hi , thank you for your comment, I'm glad the videos have been of use to you . All I aim to do is hopefully help a few people that would be great . Thanks again and good luck with all your soldering projects in the future , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 yes sir you just help me remove a relay on guitar pedal in a tight spot. Pad is intact and the replacement will go in shortly. Flux FluX and Flux!!
Hi , thank you for letting me know your good news . Glad I could help you . Good luck with all your soldering projects in the future , and thank you again for supporting my channel , take care 👍
Awesome techniques. Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel, very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
PERFECTLY DONE
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
Very amazing! Your skill never fails to amuse me. The level of skill inspires me to do better. Thanks for sharing your skill! Really appreciate it.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I just enjoy showing things , hopefully some of the methods can help a few people out . Thanks again for watching the videos , take care 👍
Superb!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Отличная работа👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Hi,
Happy new year.
The more i watch the more i love your technique
Please could you advise what solder and its size you use and also flux please?
Could you also advise on the cleaning agent and cloths also?
Some links on a famous auction site would be a real bonus if you have time of coarse.
Thanking you kindly.
Excellent video. Thank you. Would love to see how your remove a USB port.
Hi. I'll try and do another removal video sometime soon and I'll hopefully include a USB connector . Thanks for your support , take care 👍
Very impressive, thank you. Can you recommend a beginner's soldering station?
Legendary content here! Thanks a lot! 👍
What solder are you using?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The solder I generally use is Sn100SB lead free 0.25mm or 0.5mm.
This is a great lead free solder that gives the shiny appearance of leaded solder.
I get it from a company called BLT Circuits ( England ) , hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Thank you so much for your video, it's amazing and helps a lot! Could I ask which flux you used? And what you used to remove the flux? Many thanks!
This is terrific; really admire how clean your results are (the BGA and connector headers are amazing). Could you more elaborate on the flux you use and when you use which kind? I have some cheap Chinese, presumably (very) toxic, "semi solid goopy" flux that works really well; and some expensive liquid SMD flux, but I find the latter quickly evaporates when I apply heat. When do you use which, and which brands would you recommend?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. The flux I have used for many years is SMFL200D . Unfortunately it's recently been discontinued so I'm in the process of trying to find a suitable equivalent. I have some samples coming so if I'm happy with one of these I will post about it on UA-cam. I'm sorry I couldn't help you further at this time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks so much for this great how to video. Would you be willing to share the brand and model tweezers you used for this video? Thanks again.
Very nice video but if you were to say what degree of heat you use with the soldering iron and hot air gun at the different steps and what kind of flux are using is really good to know thank you
Hello! I've been following your channel for a few days and I'm already enjoying it. I have a question, which soldering iron/soldering station do you use?
Hi , thank you for watching the video and for commenting. The iron I normally always use is a Weller TCP S iron , and I generally use only 2 different types of tip . A PTP7 ( small conical ) and a DD8 ( large flat sided ) I find these 2 tips do generally anything I need to do .
Sometimes I use a miniature Metcal iron for amazingly intricate work .
Temperatures I generally use are about 330 degrees for leaded and 350 to 360 degrees for unleaded . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks for responding and for the information! I also use the conical tip for pretty much everything!
Hi , no problem , thanks for your support , take care 👍
Thanks
Hi , thank you for your support, very kind of you . I'm glad you enjoy my channel . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great tips, very useful. Do you ever use low melt solder to assist desoldering?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I have used low melt in the past to aid with some rework but I find now leaded solder helps just as much so that's what I use if needed. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi. I guess low melt solder is quite expensive and not readily available.
Great content. What size soldering tip are you using?
Hi , thank you for your comment. In this video I used a Weller TCP S soldering iron with 2 different types of tips. The small conical tip was a PTP7 and the large flat sided tips were DD8's . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
1:06 May I ask what kind of flux you are usingk? Great infos 👍
a little tip, try tinning the end of your braid and adding flux to the braid too
Hi , thank you for your comment. One thing I constantly tell people is to add flux to their braid , lots of people have commented to me about this tip . I never add solder to the braid , personally I find it's better to add a small amount to your iron tip and then wick off this way . Thanks again 👍
Just found and subscribed to your channel, very nice. Can you tell me what camera you're using. Thx John
Because I didn’t watch this first I’ve pulled almost all the barrels out with my transformer on my bench power supply that I’m repairing. Should I take the barrels off the pins & solder them back to the pads first before I put it back in? The pads are all fine.
I saw a burn mark on the board by the transformer so I assumed it was that, but after I removed it (badly) I realised it was the switching chip (a TNY277GN). I’ve checked everything else & one nearby cap looks a bit dodgy so I’ll replace that too. I’ll check the switching transistors too, but it looks like just the chip has gone pop. It was just sitting idle when it popped the fuse.
Any advice would be gratefully appreciated, loving the videos, just wish I’d watched this one before.
Hi , thank you for your comment. The most important question is what is the make up of your board . Is it multilayered , i.e does it have internal layers ? Or is it simply a double sided board with no inner layers ? If it's simply double sided you should be ok . In this case I would just remove the barrels ( or you could just leave them on the legs ), place the component back in position and solder the top and bottom of the board separately as you will have no barrels , or damaged barrels to take the solder from one side to the other . You can refit the barrels if you wish , up to you. If on the other hand you have inner layers simply putting barrels back in will not work as these inner layers would have become detached from the barrels and won't all reconnect . Having a schematic drawing may allow you to pick up other points on the PCB to possibly reconnect these damaged layers to their relevant points. Hopefully you've just got double sided . Hope that helps a little , good luck and thanks again 👍
Hola Mr solderfix
What kind of flux do you use?
Commercial one or organic?
Thanks
What temperature would you typically go for when say removing the diode with the two irons and then wicking just halfway past the video ? (14 minutes or so). These videos are really good and informative, even for some of us old-timers. Thank you :-)
It would depend on the solder and your iron, but I would go for between 320 and 350 degrees on those pads to minimise contact time
Thanks - a real help! But I find it hit and miss when wicking up with solder braid the smaller through holes - the solder will not clear the hole (but larger holes okay). Any suggestions?
Hi , thank you for your comment. When I'm wicking out small holes sometimes I have to add some fresh solder before I then try and wick it out . I always add flux to my solder wick and place a small amount of solder on my iron tip , the flux makes the braid so much more responsive to sucking the solder up the wick , people who have tried this say how much it has helped them . Dry braid just isn't as good even though it's the normal way people use it . Also I try and wick out from both sides of the holes if I'm struggling and use leaded solder as well if you can , also a great help for reworking . I will try and do a video in the near future on this subject . Hopefully you get on ok , thanks again and take care 👍
Thanks ok good
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated 👍
Would you be at all concerned about lifting the pads when dragging the wick? Some others have recommended dabbing versus dragging but you seem to do fine!
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've been using wick for many years , dragging and dabbing . Never damage any pads . I use different methods for different situations, always a good result . Thanks again 👍
👍👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video , much appreciated 👍👍
So the new bga chips have solder on them?
Hi , thank you for your question. Yes the new BGA does have solder balls on every pad . You can send your old BGA's off to get re-balled , lots of electronic companies offer this service . There is generally enough solder on a new BGA to get a very good contact without any existing solder on the board pads. Ideally you would stencil solder paste on these pads but like I say it can be done with just the component balls . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
hello how did you use hot air there and not move all the small capacitors and things near it at 21:05? I tried air before and all little things moved and it was not good to try and fix it. also if you could over lay on your videos what temperature you are at . like for hot air and for soldering iron. perhaps a small number in upper corner? so we can see whole time what temperature you are using? thanks.
What temperature you have set on your soldering tip
Hi , thank you for your comment. If I'm doing leaded soldering I use roughly 330 degrees Celsius and lead free roughly 360 - 375 degrees Celsius. I tend to generally stick to these temperatures but may vary them slightly for certain components. Hope that helps. Thanks again , take care 👍
Why do you not like hot tweezers?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I've used them in the past but not anymore . Simple reason really . 2 soldering irons is a much more flexible option such as you can bring your irons in at different angles if nearby parts are in the way . You can also take any width of component off whereas again soldering tweezers limit this . It's the flexibility that is key . I will never go back to Soldering tweezers personally but some people do like them . I guess it's personal choice . Thanks again , take care 👍
🙂👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your time is very much appreciated 👍
how do you get a such clean area when wiping it down what is it please
Isopropyl alcohol
Hi , thank you for your comment. I actually use a fluid called Ultrasolve . It's the best PCB cleaning fluid I've ever used , way better than isopropyl alcohol. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
What is your heatgun temp setting?
Hi , thank you for your comment. The HEATGUN was set to about 400 degrees for the BGA removal as it was soldered with lead free solder . The diode would have been a little lower . My normal method is to start about 375 degrees and keep tweaking upwards if the component is proving difficult to remove . I also find upping the airflow as you up the temperature is a great thing to do and really helps . Hope that helps , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you! I am just beginning to use heatgun.
Hi , no problem , I hope you get on ok 👍
But how do you replace the BGA part without a rework station?
Hi , thank you for your comment. This is just a removal video . To replace the BGA you are right , ideally you would run it through a PCB oven , or a hobbyist would probably do it with a hot air rework station . But like I say this is just showing removal and clean up .Thanks again 👍
Please.. What camera name you use?
I have something need to fix can u help me out?
How do I contact you for business ?
So basically I can buy a posh, expensive rework station, or a second $30 aliexpress special with interchangeable hakko-style tips... think I know where that money's going!
Hi Mr. Solder Fix!
I like your videos on removing soldered parts, and I have the following question.
What camera do you use to demonstrate PCB soldering? You can't see how close and in the way the camera is to the components, but it has a good resolution, the colors are good, with a sufficiently large field of view.
Can you name it exactly?
What flux do you use? I'm interested in both, the sticky one and the other one. What is the maximum heat they can withstand?
Does it matter to the fluxes whether lead-containing or lead-free solder is used for the soldered part?