Introduction to the Right Bank: Geography, Terroir and Taste Masterclass by Hubert de Boüard

To open the Commanderie de Bordeaux Educateurs’ Forum on May 18, 2022, Hubert de Bouard, owner of First Growth Ch. Angelus in St. Emilion, delivered this far-ranging talk on the Right Bank. He pointed out that, though it has historically been overshadowed by the Left Bank largely due to politics and the role of negociants, the cumulative acreage of Right Bank districts such as the Cotes de Blaye, Cotes de Bourg, Fronsac, Cotes de Castillon, St. Emilion and Pomerol, etc. comprises one-third of Bordeaux’s surface area planted to vines. Here the vineyards are smaller, the farmers and vignerons more involved in a “hands-on” way. There is diversity of soils, from clay and sand to the famous limestone which acts as a “sponge” in absorbing and distributing water throughout the year. Nor, he added, should the importance of clay-- especially smectite clay, which profoundly affects water absorption and drainage-- be underestimated on either bank of the Gironde, as well as in Burgundy. Climate change has required adjustments in both vini- and viticulture in order to maintain harmony between all elements, such as levels of oak, alcohol and extraction; where appropriate adjustments have been made, better wines have been produced over the past 30 years. Bouard predicted that greater freedom in wine production and enjoyment are coming, now that there is no single wine critic with outsize influence. He noted that old methods, such as proper pruning technique and moderate extraction, have now returned to Ch. Angelus. Contrary to gloomy predictions for the merlot grape related to global warming, the cepage at his estate, where clay is “the kingdom of merlot,” will remain at about 50% M / 47% CF / 3% CS, with yields less than 40 HL/HA. This talk was informed by many of Bouard’s personal feelings and memories. In the Q&A, when asked about the recent withdrawal of Ch. Angelus-- which now holds the top rank of Premier Grand Cru Classe (A)-- from the St. Emilion classification system, Bouard explains that his wish is to remove excessive pressure coming from the media and wine establishment, as well as to ensure that the historic estate stays in the Bouard family.
Tasting suggestion: 2016 Le Carillon de l’Angelus.