STOP Wasting Your Time Removing Supports The Hard Way! Resin 3D Printing
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Supports are a nuissance but it's part of our hobby. But you can make yourself even more miserable, by handling them wrong. Find out how you can avoid alot of mistakes when it comes to removing supports.
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Clean the model, put in warm water for 30-60 seconds, and then remove the supports. They will peel off within seconds. Then you can cure as normal.
Heat seem to be a theme, someone else suggested a hair dryer. I'll have to try this aswell. But we are all in an agreement, get rid of those supports FIRST. 😆
The easiest and faster way by far
I don't like warm water because then you have contaminated water to deal with (even cleaned models will leech chemicals out unless fully cured) and if you're using hollowed prints you end up with water that can get trapped inside and cause cracking.
@@jtrain9926 I clean my models first in meth. spirits (no IPA here) - First a dirty wash, and then a clean wash for at least 5 min in the wash and cure (on the plate if possible). Then I remove them from the plate and dunk them in warm water to remove the spirits (with a small amount of resin in it - I can tell). I cure the water with a UV-light (I have a big one from my old homemade curing station), before I get rid of it. You could leave it outside to cure as well - I make sure, there is no uncured resin left in the water!!!.
Anyway, after this I put the models in hot water (around 55 degrees celsius) and after a short minute, I start peeling the supports away - They break up much easier than at room temperature. Then I cure them.
Do you mean the alcohol clean? Like just dip it in there?
True, I do it this way too with a little help from a heater. But even if you cure it you can heat it up (heater/warm water) and you can remove support easily.
I never understood why people remove their supports after curing the model..... I still don't.
This is why we need to spread the good word!
I've never seen anyone do it like this. The way I've always done it (and I thought everyone did it like that, since it is way, WAY easier!) is print, wash it in whatever cleaning solution you use, dunk in hot water for a bit, peel the supports, which should basically almost fall off the model at this point and THEN cure the model. Bonus points if you cure it submerged in water, as that gives a more consistent cure and reduces brittleness of the final model.
That's the best and easiest way to do it.
this results in contaminated water which must be evaporated to dispose of responsibly. Typically a heat gun is an easier method
Even hot water isn’t needed. Leave it in your cleaning solution overnight and the supports will literally fall off when you remove it in the morning. Zero damage to the model, no contaminated water.
You have to be careful with this method, you can weaken smaller, delicate parts of the model this way if you leave it too long. Overnight should be fine, but it will probably depend on how thin some of your model is.
@@ThatOneJalapenoKid Yeah agree with this - if parts are delicate enough to be weakened, I’d be snipping those supports off anyway!
I had to laugh a little at 1:12
Well then the video had at least SOME value... 😅
Cure -> Warm Water -> Strip Supports 👍
Excessive pitting/scarring is usually from contact points being to deep.
I am careful with delicate models, but most models, I just twist & pull. This only works if the supports are long enough though.
All my supports just peel off when I take it off the plate so I do them after the first rinse/wash. Sometimes I have some very tiny hair like supports that I remove after cure. I’d never cure all these supports on there like this though
Cheers mate, that was lovely 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Heat gun is the best option, imo. Lower footprint, less cleanup, and you can easily target the supports you want to weaken.
Oh, and a tip: I 'invested' in cleaning gloves of nitrile. Those are about $10 I think. But as they are not disposable, they can be used over and over again. I think I have saved the expenses of a few hundred disposable gloves already, not to mention the idea that you're creating a lot less waste this way.
Nice comment. I've gotten a pair of those aswell a few years ago. I just go for the disposable ones when I have to do very careful work on some delicate minis.
I honestly thought you would remove the supports, when wash, then cure... Im surprised thats not the 'typical' thought
I've always removed supports before curing, but I still get support scars. Are my supports too thick, or something?
There are three things you may consider doing to avoid those marks.
You could experiment with smaller supports, try and lower your exposure time or use a different resin like the newer ABS like ones. Those are much softer after printing.
@@arthyficial Thanks for the tips. I'll def take a look at the ABS-like resin. It's time to resupply anyways.
@@TrepidDestiny Happy to help. I also finally tried one just 3 weeks ago. Went for the Anycubic Abs Like+ and so far I'm intrigued. Didn't even have to change my settings. Good luck trying it out and happy printing.
I want all the cut off parts
Things you don't want to hear in a hospital vol. 1
Video was simple and straight to the point. It was perfectly fine.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it 👍
I always remove the supports before curing. It still leaves marks behind, even if I use a tool.
There are three things you may consider doing to avoid those marks.
You could experiment with smaller supports, try and lower your exposure time or use a different resin like the newer ABS like ones. Those are much softer after printing.
Someone show him the hot water trick and blow his mind. Haha
Wtf why cure it then remove supports??? Who the heck does that
People actually remove supports after curing? I get marks from supports but never as bad as you showed
I was as surprised as you are. Seen it alot so I thought I make a video about it.
Depends on the supports. Well supported models dont leave alot of scars
Firstly, get the right expossure time. Then, never ever cure your parts. If it's sticky after cleaning, hit it with uv for 10sec. Again, never ever fully cure your prints. Hot water and the supports flake right off. I can not stress to never fully cure your prints. If your exposure time was done properly, you will have crazy flex and durability in your miniature prints.
To be frank, if you need to use pliers to remove supports, the contact diameter of your supports are way thicker than they need to be. Models that are appropriately supported only need a gentle yank to pull off the supports.
Use super light supports and drop it hot water for a minute and the model will just slip off the supports with no visible damage.
I do what you do and agree completely! I never thought of using a toothpick for the tiny supports, though. That's smart. I'm going to try that!
Happy to help and thank you for watching
I clean, then remove, then cure. Some people dunk in hot water, but i personally dont want to add a whole extra contaminated thing to deal with.
I find that you can also use warm water on the half cured print to encourage the suports to break free. Just be careful as this can add a small amount of warping. Best for smaller figures. Nice video. :)
I wish I had been told this when I started two years ago. I went a solid three months before I noticed they started to come off when I was washing them.
Are there seriously people curing supports? .-.
Yes. I did not print a Troll army, and leave the supports on just to prove my point. 🫠
I taught everyone just rinsed them warm water and pushed the supports off before curing
I thought it was common knowledge to remove the supports before curing. I have never, ever seen any video or other documentation recommend curing the model first. It makes the supports that much harder to remove while simultaneously making the curing pretty unreliable since the support structures will block a lot of the incoming UV light, which means you need to cure for longer, which in turn could lead to more brittle prints.
My workflow is as follows: Clean the model with supports on in a first, dirty-ish IPA bath. I then remove the supports with my hands. Most of the time this works fine with a pulling and twisting motion at the same time. Sometimes models are a tad oversupported (I mostly print presupported models and have 1 or 2 sculptors whose supports are a bit overkill but I much rather have that than undersupported models cough cough Lord of The Print which is now called Rescale miniatures)
If that's the case, I either nuke the model with a hairdryer on the hottest but lowest airflow setting for like 10 seconds if I just have 1 or 2 models or I put on a Kettle with 70°C water if I have some more models. Just chuck 'em in there, wait like 2 minutes until the water has cooled down to the point where I can get my hands in there and the supports will come right off. Sometimes they will even separate from the model on their own.
Just try to avoid these methods on really finicky models as that could lead to fine detail coming off with the supports and you should be good to go.
After removing the supports, I give the models a second wash in a clean IPA bath in my Wash&Cure. If the hot water was used, this will also wash away any excess water from the surface and inside of hollow prints which means lower drying times. (This is also a bonus tip for folks using water washable resin - even if you use water to wash your prints, flush or at least spray them with IPA or methylated spirits to dramatically reduce the drying times of your prints!)
A lot of people in the comments that have never used anything but basic resins and models that don't require any dimensional accuracy I see.
The final wash I do with ultrasonic cleaner, I also set it at 50 degrees*, and at that temperature the supports fall off with almost no scarring.
*Different temperature for different resins and support width.
I mean it's a no brainer that curing the print with supports still attached will harden the resin, and removing them without a cutter will damage the model. I usually remove them immediately after removing the print from the plate, when they're still soft.
my way is uncured and running under hot water easy peasy
Great video, nice tips 😁
Nice 😊
Thanks
I have always removed supports before curing. Just intuitively thought that was better. Did not even know what a pain it was to not do it that way!
Kinda makes sense to me
Thank you for your work 🙏.
Happy to help
Hi.
That Valkia looks great, I have found her on the shop, but from where are those juicy juicy Demigryph Knights at the end of the vid?
Oh thank you! You can find the Demis as: Knights of the Rising Sun - Highlands Miniatures.
@@arthyficial thanks mate.
I liked your video it was good and to the point. I have done it for years and even though you didnt teach me anything this time I had to sub.
Thank you for your feedback and your support
@@arthyficial I left another suggestion on you movement tray video as well.
@@PheonixKnght Thanks, I did see that and reply to it. I will take that into account in the next videos. At the moment I am not "allowed" to post working links. (You need to be a bit bigger for that) I need to fix that, then I will get into affiliate links.
I print, then wash the model. After that, I use a baby bottle warmer which keeps a source of water warm and has and adjustable temperature. Also, I have switched to ABS-like water-washable from regular water-washable resin and the supports break off so much cleaner, especially when warmed.
I still get support marks even when removing supports before curing completely.. is there something I can do to fix it?
@@f8keuser Three things you can try: Smaller supports especially the connect diameter. Lowering your eyposure time. Try a different resin type. Standard resin is quite brittle and tough. I switched to an abs like one lately, those are less stiff and supports seem to come off easier.
@@arthyficial I've tired making them smaller however the print begins to fail if I make them smaller than 0.25mm I'm using lychee slicer and default small supports is 0.30mm
Resin I have been using is Anycubic's UV Tough Resin and ABS like resin.
@@f8keuser Then I think I'm out of my depth. One different thing comes to mind: I sometimes don't get around to remove the support in the first 24-48 hours. I recognized that the resin, after 24h seems to become even a bit softer then. Maybe that helps. I also didn't see any problems to the print after curing like cracking or bending after that. To an extend you'll always have a few marks, but I managed to reduce them heavily by using all these tricks. Also, when supporting your own models, you can already try and put them in places where they cannot be seen of course.
it would take even less time if you hit it some heat from a hair dryer first.
You mean, heat up the model and the supports, before you try and remove them? Never tried that before. Sounds interesting and I'll give it a try!
Yes I use a heat gun on low, just gently till the supports start to warp naturally then they come off with minimal damage
i have always printed, washed, removed supports, then cured
a dip in warm water will help a lot as well.
Good video. I didn't realise anyone cured their minis before removing the supports. Thank you for taking the time to enlighten the unenlightened. I'm with the, 'clean, warm water, remove supports' team. Subscribed )O( Edit: A shame you've discontinued your Tribe on MMF because your minis are looking really good.
Thank you for your very nice comment, your sub and checking out our MMF store. We will continue with the tribe at a later point, we are regrouping at the moment and want to figure out what we want to focus on.
Tip from me. you can also clean the models (but not cure) and use like an hairdryer to make it softer, so its even easier to remove supports without having the goo everywhere:)
nvm. saw some other comments xD
But i have some other Tip. The Algorhytm is a creative people enemy. if you wanna get seen you need to pump out a lot of videos. You could prepare like 20 videos... yes i know, its a lot, and send them weekly or even every few days to (hopefully) get a kickstart.
This works well with miniatures or prints that do not need heat during cure. Some resins require heat while curing. And if you take off the supports prior to cure/heat your part can warp. During these type of cures you should leave the supports on while curing.
I've never came accross something like that. Interesting though.
@@arthyficial Depends on the resin. some of the engineering resins benefit form a hot cure. And all of my formlabs resins required heating while curing.
How do you do it if someone sends you one that is cured with all the supports? I've ran into a few of these and I'm a bit confused as to how to do it.
That's a bit of a tough spot to be in. Here you have no other choice than getting your trusty clippers out and work very slow and carefully. If you are lucky, then most of the supports are connected to a point where you won't see the scars afterwards.
@arthyficial Thanks! Guess I will give this a shot and see if maybe heat helps a little.
Do you still wash and cure the supports after removing them ?
It would be the better thing to do yes. At least curing to deactivate the chemicals.
so i have the issue where the printer will just make the supports idk what to do the room has gotten warmer later
If your print is not on your suports anymore then you can try 3 things:
Add more supports
Increase the Exposure time
Also you mentioned that your room gotten warmer later. Resin should always be kept at least room temperature to get the best print results. If your room gets too cold over night, the resin becomes too viscous and print mistakes happen. Always keep your printing room warm.