Thanks a lot! With all my recent visits to the shop i realized i was about to cover the technician's son's college tuition, so I've kinda become a tree shade mechanic. This is my next project. Great video. Simple and to the point.
Thank you so much for this, just got my front brakes done! As an addition, I did not have the caliper compressor tool that you used here, though i had a large C clamp that worked just fine. I'm sure this video helps a lot of folks save a lot of $$$!
Thanks, you just saved me a bundle of $$$. i was quoted $600 an axle. I grew up in the 70's and esrly 80's when it was common practice to do your own disk and drum brake pad replacments. Its been a while, but I will be doing this on my own for my 2018 Frontier. Thanks again!
The metal tab on the pads is a wear indicator. It will contact the rotor and start screeching when your pads are worn. It really doesn't matter where you put it, but I always try and think about where I could see it most easily. Either thru the wheel, when cleaning my wheels or from underneath. It's best to take a peek occasionally and see how far it is off the rotor, before it actually makes contact and starts screeching.
It does matter which side it is on. If anything is wrong with your brakes 99% of the time the inside pad against the caliper piston wears out first. That where the in dick hater goes!
Those wishbone pins are to help keep pads off rotor when brakes are not applied. To prevent unnecessary wear. The clip on the pad hits rotor to let you know pads are worn before rotor damage.
My 2018 Nissan Frontier does not have a wishbone pin , I don't know if they were thrown away on their own or if it is, I hope someone writes to me, thank you very much.
liked your video, showing the front brake assembly w/hardware ; haven't done one b-4 with that particular h-ware, but it looks easy-peasy. appreciate your taking the time to do this for us shadetree mechanics or is it gearheads (I can't remember, maybe both)?! lol
I've got a couple big c-clamps that I've always used. I keep saying I'm going to buy the proper tool, but never think about it till the middle of the next brake job. LOL
Next time open the lid on your master cylinder and it’ll be 10x easier to push that caliper piston in. Great video!! I got 30k to a set of pads. Was hoping for 50k on them.
Yup, just compress the calipers slowly with the Master cylinder cap off and it will "Burp" the line of air bubbles, if there are any in the system at the same time. Just be careful not to pinch the calipers too tight and break a seal. Seal replacement is a different video all together. :)
So the "bracket" you mention (at time 3:38) is the wear indicator (aka squealer). You got lucky, it seems, that you couldn't get the pad with the indicator on the first time you tried, as the squealers (wear indicators) should always be on the piston side (aka inboard, or side closest to the engine). Typically the inside pad will wear fastest. The squealer resides down if the caliper is mounted on the side closest to the cab, otherwise if the caliper is mounted on the side closest to the front bumper then the squealer will reside up - in other words the squealer should be positioned where the rotor initially cuts in. Anyway, I hope this explanation was helpful to you. Thanks for the video. By the way what year is your Frontier?
The tab you say is nowhere to be found, can clearly be seen on the outer pad @1:34 and thereafter. I still question if it’s in the correct location, because it can also be in other spots. Looking for someone that can confirm it.
After watching: ua-cam.com/video/zuzoSI42VLg/v-deo.html at min. 8:00 I can see the little tab is on the inner pad at the top, both on removal and reinstall. I’ve watched other videos that all show it always in inner upper location. I’m not sure what it’s purpose is, but I’ll go with that. Would like to find out what it’s original intent is.
I also thought that. I definitely had to help my dad do this on many cars. However, I have changed pads at least a dozen times on several different vehicles in my adulthood and I have yet to bleed the brakes once.
not needed, unless you see a brake fluid leak at a fitting on the caliper or the brake line, otherwise you're good to go. Don't forget to pump the pedal so the piston(s) "seat" the new pads on the rotors--first time, your pedal usually feels like it's going to the floor so do so b-4 you actually need to brake b-4 moving the vehicle. Seat isn't the proper word but what you're doing is pushing the caliper piston(s) back to their new position with your new pads installed.
Only if you are changing brakes for your worst enemy 😆😆. Those bolts need to be removed in the future so no loctite should be used. Just tighten to 26ft/lbs if the diagram I found is correct.
The only time the rotors need to be resurfaced is if they have gone metal to metal with the old break shoes. and the disk is groved or warped. Service centers love to charge you for destroying perfectly good rotors by resurfacing them every time shoes are replaced, it simply is NOT nessasary.
I need more information. Did you drive it for a while before it made that sound? How were you driving: fast or slow? Did you take your wheel off and inspect the brakes after it made that sound? Did you properly retighten the wheel after you finished the brakes?
Thanks a lot! With all my recent visits to the shop i realized i was about to cover the technician's son's college tuition, so I've kinda become a tree shade mechanic. This is my next project.
Great video. Simple and to the point.
@@eljimy13 glad to help! Thanks for checking us out 😁
Thank you so much for this, just got my front brakes done! As an addition, I did not have the caliper compressor tool that you used here, though i had a large C clamp that worked just fine. I'm sure this video helps a lot of folks save a lot of $$$!
@@corydumont1141 nice! Glad it helped you out Cory 👍🏽
Thanks, you just saved me a bundle of $$$. i was quoted $600 an axle. I grew up in the 70's and esrly 80's when it was common practice to do your own disk and drum brake pad replacments. Its been a while, but I will be doing this on my own for my 2018 Frontier. Thanks again!
So glad to have helped. Thanks for watching Kevin!
The metal tab on the pads is a wear indicator. It will contact the rotor and start screeching when your pads are worn. It really doesn't matter where you put it, but I always try and think about where I could see it most easily. Either thru the wheel, when cleaning my wheels or from underneath. It's best to take a peek occasionally and see how far it is off the rotor, before it actually makes contact and starts screeching.
It does matter which side it is on. If anything is wrong with your brakes 99% of the time the inside pad against the caliper piston wears out first. That where the in dick hater goes!
Those wishbone pins are to help keep pads off rotor when brakes are not applied. To prevent unnecessary wear. The clip on the pad hits rotor to let you know pads are worn before rotor damage.
Do you think it will hurt anything if I'm missing those wishbone pins? I lost the one that was on there and never found it.
My 2018 Nissan Frontier does not have a wishbone pin , I don't know if they were thrown away on their own or if it is, I hope someone writes to me, thank you very much.
liked your video, showing the front brake assembly w/hardware ; haven't done one b-4 with that particular h-ware, but it looks easy-peasy. appreciate your taking the time to do this for us shadetree mechanics or is it gearheads (I can't remember, maybe both)?! lol
@@evnStevn geartree shadechanics 😁😂
good reminder, i havent done my own brakes since forever, the vice was the part i forgot about, got to get one, thanks cheers
Thanks for watching buddy. Cheers to you as well 👍🏽
I've got a couple big c-clamps that I've always used. I keep saying I'm going to buy the proper tool, but never think about it till the middle of the next brake job. LOL
@@indianadave8881 yes I’ve done that 100 times as well lol
Next time open the lid on your master cylinder and it’ll be 10x easier to push that caliper piston in. Great video!! I got 30k to a set of pads. Was hoping for 50k on them.
Yup, just compress the calipers slowly with the Master cylinder cap off and it will "Burp" the line of air bubbles, if there are any in the system at the same time. Just be careful not to pinch the calipers too tight and break a seal. Seal replacement is a different video all together. :)
Can your show me where tht is
Sick. Never have changed my breaks before, have all the tools, seems easy enough, awesome vid man! Thanks and subd!
You’ll blast right through it. Let us know if you have any questions. Thanks for the support!!
Thanks..going to do my 2019 soon...now I know what to expect many thanks..😁👍👍
It’s super easy, you’ll have no problems. Thanks for watching.
that one caliper with the spring had me wondering. Only one had it thanks for setting that straight!
Yea why even put it on there? Lol.
It's a wear indicator.
@@Rick-uc7tx that’s right. Forgot about that. Thank you!
Forgot to mention to open master brake cylinder when pushing back calipers.
Also probably should use some break quiet grease.
I don’t usually do that ever. I’ve heard of it though. Not going to hurt anything to remove that cover.
@@TheAdamConners The sqeek greese is old school , but it worked.. :)
So the "bracket" you mention (at time 3:38) is the wear indicator (aka squealer). You got lucky, it seems, that you couldn't get the pad with the indicator on the first time you tried, as the squealers (wear indicators) should always be on the piston side (aka inboard, or side closest to the engine). Typically the inside pad will wear fastest. The squealer resides down if the caliper is mounted on the side closest to the cab, otherwise if the caliper is mounted on the side closest to the front bumper then the squealer will reside up - in other words the squealer should be positioned where the rotor initially cuts in. Anyway, I hope this explanation was helpful to you. Thanks for the video. By the way what year is your Frontier?
Thanks for the explanation 😄. Ours is an ‘06.
THANK YOU my friend!!!
You are most welcome, thanks for watching!
I wish you would have added the torque specifications for those 14mm bolts.
DM me on Instagram @theadamconners and I can share a diagram. It’s 26 ft/lbs.
nice and easy, but I noticed that you didn't put any grease on to prevent squeaking, or did I miss something, or are these squeak proof.
These particular pads did have the No squeak shims on the back.
My drivers side is grinding metal on metal, so i need pads and rotors. Passenger side has 3mm of pad left, Do I have to change the rotor?
I would if you can swing it. Nothing worse than having a break shimmy on new pads because the old rotors have a slight warp
I was just watching video. Should noise indicator go on the inside or out. Other videos show inside.
I’m going to make waves and say it doesn’t matter. 😁🤷🏻♂️
🤣🤣🤣 your daughter just got you a subscriber!!!
Ahhaha, we keep it real over here. She ain’t lying 😂.
Much appreciated sub @drock55551
If you got any frontier request let me know.
@@TheAdamConners will do, thanks!
Mine didnt come with the pins to keep the pads from rubbing on the rotor nor did my stock brakes have them on there . Im confused? Do i need them?
Would anything happen if i dont install the spreading clips? They keep falling off
@@eljimy13 yea may get a pad sticking to caliper when brake pedal is not pressed down.
What year is that? I just replaced the pads and rotors on our 2003, and it didn't have those wishbone springs.
2006. I thinks it’s more how that brand makes them than the year. I’ve used other pads that didn’t come with that metal “spring”
The tab you say is nowhere to be found, can clearly be seen on the outer pad @1:34 and thereafter. I still question if it’s in the correct location, because it can also be in other spots. Looking for someone that can confirm it.
After watching: ua-cam.com/video/zuzoSI42VLg/v-deo.html at min. 8:00 I can see the little tab is on the inner pad at the top, both on removal and reinstall. I’ve watched other videos that all show it always in inner upper location. I’m not sure what it’s purpose is, but I’ll go with that. Would like to find out what it’s original intent is.
Supposedly it’s a wear indicator.
My comment is nice stash🤙
It’s hardly worth the maintenance, but thanks for the love lol.
What year Nissan???
2005-2021
Do you need to bleed the brakes after installing new pads? I always thought you did.
I also thought that. I definitely had to help my dad do this on many cars. However, I have changed pads at least a dozen times on several different vehicles in my adulthood and I have yet to bleed the brakes once.
not needed, unless you see a brake fluid leak at a fitting on the caliper or the brake line, otherwise you're good to go. Don't forget to pump the pedal so the piston(s) "seat" the new pads on the rotors--first time, your pedal usually feels like it's going to the floor so do so b-4 you actually need to brake b-4 moving the vehicle. Seat isn't the proper word but what you're doing is pushing the caliper piston(s) back to their new position with your new pads installed.
👍👍😊
Currently 19 watching this 😭🤣
Do I need the caliper compression tool?
For the back you have to twist the piston into the caliper. For the front, yea you can use a piston compression tool.
Is this same process for the 2018 frontier?
Yes the same for nearly every car with disc brakes actually.
How many miles on new truck brakes off can you generally go?
I’m sure it depends on the driver and the geography, but I think 50k is the sweet spot for factory recommended service intervals.
@@TheAdamConners ok thanks ..need changing now its right there at 50k now
No locktight of caliper bolts?
Only if you are changing brakes for your worst enemy 😆😆.
Those bolts need to be removed in the future so no loctite should be used. Just tighten to 26ft/lbs if the diagram I found is correct.
It's 20 lb feet of torque or It's 26.48 NM
how can you not subscribe?
🤷🏻♂️😄
You must tell your people about resurfacing the front rotors! If not they will experience steering whee shimmy
Its easier to just replace them where I’m at. Only a few places turn rotors where I live. Either way is good imo.
No need to turn.rotors...AND no you won't get wheel shimmy ..smh
The only time the rotors need to be resurfaced is if they have gone metal to metal with the old break shoes. and the disk is groved or warped. Service centers love to charge you for destroying perfectly good rotors by resurfacing them every time shoes are replaced, it simply is NOT nessasary.
How not to do a brake job....
Thanks, Knucklehead 😄
Sr, why my brake make a noise something like click just one time
I need more information. Did you drive it for a while before it made that sound? How were you driving: fast or slow? Did you take your wheel off and inspect the brakes after it made that sound? Did you properly retighten the wheel after you finished the brakes?
🌺 Ｐｒⓞм𝕠𝕤𝐌
You left out the most important part. How to take the freaking lug nut covers off. There are literally zero videos on this topic.